
and the huge 17th-century former Jesuit college, now the headquarters of the city’s Municipality.
Running east to west along the southern side of the old town is the pedestrianised ul. Długa, now lined with shops and bars and once the main Jewish trading street where Kaszik the barber and Lewin the antique dealer famously and somewhat controversially worked on Saturdays. Painter Maksymilian Piotrowski lodged at number 22, and if you believe the locals the pub formerly housed in the cellars once served King Jan III Sobieski. The 19th century synagogue, destroyed in 1940, once stood on ul. Wały Jagiellonskie 2, while next door number four is home to the Bydgoszcz magistrates’ court. It was here that the Nazis conducted their first mass execution of local intelligentsia, shooting 180 enemies of the regime on September 5,
1939. Further on a plaque at number 12 honours Mayor Leon Barciszewski who could once be found living here. Barciszewski was killed by the Nazis on September 11, 1939, and you’ll find a statue of this Lenin lookalike just before you reach the bridge on ul. Mostowa.
Lastly, for a glimpse of classic Poland, don’t miss the turreted Market Hall at the far end of ul. Magdzinskiego. Built in 1904 this neo-Gothic brick building houses stalls of various quality and curiosity and is surrounded by an open air market where traders hawk everything from pre- war family heirlooms to purple tracksuits.