It can get awfully cold here in winter so the locals go bananas and head to the beach the moment Mister Sun appears. Here are some of your options.
Sobieszewo Island
Incorporated into Gdańsk’s city boundaries in 1973 this 11 kilometre beach is the longest in the tri-city, and measuring 200 metres wide in some parts, it’s easy to find solitude, no matter what cards the weather chooses to play. The island was formerly part of the mainland, but was cut off in 1895 during an ambitious operation to create a river. The celebrations, ordered at the behest of Kaiser Wilhelm II were conducted by Gustav van Gossler – president of West Prussia – and it was he who broke what was left of the Sobieszewo’s connection to the mainland with a spade on March 31, 1895.
There are two beaches of note to visit, Sobieszewo and Orle, both of which have lifeguards, showers, toilets, changing rooms and cordoned off areas for children. Treasure hunters will be pleased to learn that amber frequently washes up onto the shores following stormy weather, and the area has two nature reserves, including Ptasi Raj (Bird Paradise) which is home to over 300 species of birds. Numerous bike trails around the island make for sweaty afternoons, and while the area has few monuments it does have a 19th century dam in Przegalino, and is also home to the former residence of Nazi Gauleiter Albert Forster. Although his quarters are firmly cordoned off, visitors can still sneak a glimpse through a fence. If you want a tonic from the madhouse of Sopot, this is it.
By car: 15km from Gdańsk. Head to the Warsaw road and turn left after about 10km following the signs to Sobieszewo.
By bus: Bus N˚112 and 186 from Gdańsk Główny train station. Journey time approx. 35mins.
Brzeźno
On a sunny day Brzeźno claims to attract more visitors than Sopot Beach, a claim made credible by the jungle of 70s residential tower blocks in the area. The pier has seen more growth spurts than a child. Constructed in 1900 as 100 metre long structure it was extended to 200 metres between the wars, and has now shrivelled to 130 metres. Once a resort for the rich it was once home to numerous spas and bathouses, now replaced by cut-price food cabins and snack bars.
In 1899 the Hala Brzegowa was added to the landscape; a lavish seaside building with galleries and viewing towers. Since demolished the site was leased to a Mr Borejko in 1993, under the promise he would build an exact replica by 1997. Needless to say he didn’t, and the city recently won a court case against him – only to find he had sold the land to a Wrocław firm that has planned to build a hotel on the site as of August. Other points of interest include the remains of Fort Brzeźno (built 1908-1910); a few bomb shelters and ruins survive to this day and are popular with climbers, while the metal lighthouse at the end of the peninsula dates from 1832. The beach is the only one in the tri-city with a Blue Flag certificate for cleanliness.
By tram: trams N˚13 and 15 run to Brzeźno Plaza.
Jelitkowo
Once known as Glettkau the jewel of this beach was the pier built in 1904. You won’t catch sight of it now, it fell victim to stormy weather back in 1914. First mentions of Jelitkowo date to 1480 when this was a fishing settlement, and you’ll still find classic fishermans cottages dating from the 18th and 19th centuries on ul. Bałtycka. It’s here where you’ll find an area sometimes called ‘Little Montmatre’ by the locals, in reference to the colony of artists who have made the area their domain. By 1875 the area had begun to transform into a spa resort for wealthy Germans, and evidence of their presence can still be discerned by the existence of a number of plush villas.
The beach itself comes with showers and lifeguards, and is also the site of the annual Walrus Club swim each New Years’ Day. The cycle path running from Brzeźno to Sopot passes through the scenic Jelitkowski Park and is a must for those who embrace the outdoors. Until August 31 the beach will be home to the ‘Lech Active Summer’, a series of events sponsored by the Lech brewery. Expect beach football and climbing walls, and from 21:00 a beach party each Friday, featuring laser shows and DJs. When hunger strikes repair to the Parkowa restaurant on ul. Pomorska 57.
By tram: trams N˚2, 6, 8 and 12 will get you there.
Sopot
The one everyone makes a beeline for, though the further you walk towards Gdynia the more space you’ll find. The pier is apparently the longest in Europe, and harks back to the day when Sopot was the preserve of the scurrilously wealthy.
The resort of Sopot is commonly accepted to have been founded in 1823 by the Alsatian doctor Jean Georg Haffner and though classy hotels and restaurants abound, Sopot is better known as a party town; a fact reflected by Hawaii style beach bars like Tropikalna Wyspa and Copacabana. Snack shacks abound, with Bar Przystań rated as being one of the best fish bars in the whole country. As suits its resort image, the beach has endless opportunites for outdoor types; ranging from cruises on mock pirate boats to being dragged behind a speedboat on a banana. Beach football and volleyball tournaments take place pretty much each day, and August 4, 8 and 25 will see swimming races around the pier take place. If you fancy your chances you’ll need to register before 10:00 on the day of the race.
Gdynia
Choose from two beaches. Gdynia Orłowo (get off at Orłowo train station and head straight down ul. Orłowska) is the quieter, with an eroding cliff that proves popular with paragliders, and the scenic forest trails that lead to the top come populated with families of wild boar. Although the pier is closed until August this is still an interesting spot and in summer theatre performances take place on the beachfront open-air stage, courtesy of the Municipal Theatre. The central beach to the north is found right by Skwer Unii Europejski, and its 200 metre length is often packed to bursting point. Lifeguards, showers, toilets and daily beachball tournaments are part of the drill, and you may be interested to know that the first ever ice-cream on a stick was created on the nearby Świętojańska street back in 1932.