The Irish Pub was once something of a byword for debauchery, with sweaty bodies and blocked toilets all doing their bit for a meat market atmosphere. Then along came new owners and out went the crowd. What was once a grotty dive bar has been reinvented as a half-smart cellar with vinyl seats and a puff of air freshener. It looks better, but it just doesn’t feel better. What was once a guaranteed source of phone numbers and hangovers now stands often magnificently empty. As for the Irish bit, we’re stuck to find a link.