‘Many generations to come will remember the extraordinary thing that happened in Poland, there appeared a social force able to control those in power.’ Culture magazine, Paris, 1980.
Following this primer visitors are given a historical background to post-war communism; not just in Poland, but across Europe. Themes explored include the rising discontent, and heavy emphasis is placed on the growing tides of unrest – starting with the first open rebellion in 1956, the picture builds to a crescendo by zooming in on December 1970, a time when 45 people – the majority from the tri-city area – were killed during clashes with armed forces. Protesting sharp price increases events took a bloody twist when party chairman Władysław Gomułka ordered security forces to intervene, and the ensuing scenes are captured vividly in the exhibitions on show; among them, camera captures and video shots of the violence, much of it focused around the Gdańsk Party HQ (the white building which stands opposite the town hall on Wały Jagiellońskie). English translations accompany the footage, while a mock cell based on those in which protestors would have been detained in provides grim confirmation of the hardline reaction.
The protests of 1970 were a landmark event, but these were just a precursor to what would follow in 1980. Up next, passing by the head of the omnipotent Lenin, the tour takes you deep into the time of the 18 day strike which paralysed the nation, and left the world on tenterhooks. To a background of rabble-rousing speeches and strike anthems, visitors can view the original sheets of plywood on which the demonstrators spelled out their 21 demands in what would go on to become known as the ‘August Accords’. Reconstructed is a mock-up of the room in which negotiations were held, tables topped with huge transistor radios to tap into news from the outside world. The creation of the iconic Solidarity logo, as well as the unifying role of the Catholic church, is also given detailed mention, and by this stage visitors are left feeling hopelessly sucked into the heady atmosphere of the time.
Following this, the prescribed tour takes you through the months of ‘Solidarity and Hope’, an unprecedented time during which cultural life and social freedom flourished like never before. The optimism during the 16 months which followed the events of August 1980 are neatly presented by way of audio recordings, artwork and photos, a brief respite from the horror that swiftly follows; accessed through some rubber curtains the visitor is propelled into the terrifying world that was Poland, 13 December, 1981. It was on this watershed day that General Jaruzelski ordered Martial Law, ordering the army to effectively invade its own country. The brutality and tension of these times is illustrated by crackly film reels showing pitch battles with security forces – including one uncomfortable moment when an army vehicle smashes straight over a dissident – as well as extras such riot shields and weaponry used to enforce Martial Law. Jaruzelski’s speech, the televised decree announcing his action, loops with gloomy regularity, as if to punch in the severity of his stance. And yet, in spite of the overwhelming odds, resistance to the regime continued to rage, and this is marked by dioramas depicting an underground printing press, as well assorted anti-establishment exhibits.
The concluding sections include the nation’s historical timeline from 1944 to 1989 and the final room is the base for temporary exhibitions which are held regularly.
Truly, Roads to Freedom stands out as one of the finest museums in Poland – possibly only usurped by the newly opened Chopin Museum in Warsaw – however, it has not existed without problems. The exhibition has since moved from its original home in the historic shipyards, and while a return to the BHP building in which the August Accords were signed is unlikely, the exhibition is due to move to the European Solidarity Centre building when that is completed.
Admission 6/4zł, Wed 2zł, groups over 10 people 3zł per person, family ticket 10zł.
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Situated a 15-20 minute walk from the centre of town this is an absolute must see while you are in Gdansk. Two minutes away from the Monument to the Fallen Shipyard Workers in pl. Solidarnosci, it's in an underground exhibition hall. Look for the grey 'Milicja' armoured personnel carrier parked outside. Once you're inside the exhibition make sure you take the time to use one of the interactive terminals in Room 02 [Polish Months]. You can use it to follow a multimedia timeline that traces, in English, the Polish people’s various uprisings against communism between 1956 and 1989. It'll be 20 minutes well spent as it'll give you the background knowledge you need to appreciate the kind of oppressive socialist regime Solidarity were up against and the reasons it had to be overthrown. I found the exhibition to be a rewarding experience and I'd highly recommend it.
I went a couple of times to the old exhibit, so I will have to visit the new venue. I was a student in Poland in 1980, so I remember the gathering political storm, the backwardness, the fear, etc. That atmosphere was captured very well in the old exhibit. The demonstration re-enactments were pretty true to life, and produce a shudder of recognition in anyone who lived through those times. The audio to those demonstration scenes is especially unsettling. The old grocery store was a true replica of just how bad things were back in 1980-81 with empty shelves and ration tickets. Too bad no English speaker will get the joke about the notice offering to "x-ray" the eggs (so you wouldn't crack open an egg and find a tiny chick inside.) "Eggs" are also Polish slang for something very male, and the "egg" notices posted in many groceries were fodder for many guy jokes. Hopefully new English subtitles will make the museum more accessible to foreigners.
I was bitterly disappointed not to see the roads to freedom exhibition during my visit to Gdansk as it is currently closed (14th to 31st March 2008) - no reason given.