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Gdansk | Sightseeing | Stutthof

Stutthof (Sztutowo) lies 55km east of Gdańsk and is easily accessed by both car and bus. Journey time by bus is about 80 minutes, and cost 10.70zł at the time of writing. You’ll need to get the bus with Krynica Morska emblazoned on its destination, and then jump off when you pass the perimiter of the camp. If you’re driving then you could take an ace little shorcut (35km in total) and follow road number 501 for 23km to Świbno. From here take a car ferry across (10zł, foot passengers 2zł, bikes 3zł, motorbikes 5zł). Then it’s a case of following the signs. This scenic route is only possible between April 15, 2009 and mid-October. It’s also closed in bad weather, in which case drivers have two alternative routes to pursue. First option: take road 7 (Gdańsk - Warszawa) then when you reach Nowy Dwór Gdański take road number 502 (left) that leads to Stegna, and then onto Sztutowo (57km in total). Second option: Road number 7 (Gdańsk - Warszawa), then take a left just after crossing the Wisła river (Direction Mikoszewo). Once in Mikoszewo follow signs for Krynica Morska. You’ll find Sztutowo (Stutthof) on the way. The parking fee for the camp is 6zł.
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Long before the outbreak of war Nazi officials in the Free City of Danzig had been conspiring to build a camp designed to detain, and ultimately exterminate, ‘undesirable’ elements of the local population. By autumn 1939 their poisonous plans had become reality. Having spent the previous few years compiling information on politicians, intellectuals, economists and Polish patriots, the capitulation of the city spelt the start of six years of terror. Waves of mass arrests followed, and by September 2, 1939 Stutthof camp opened its gates to receive its first batch of prisoners. What had been a quiet, unimposing town became the first concentration camp to be built outside of Nazi Germany.

As the war progressed the Stutthof death machine grew at an alarming rate. In 1940 the camp measured 12 hectares and held just over 3,500 prisoners. By the end of the war the camp had spawned another 26 sub-camps covering an area of 120 hectares, holding an estimated 57,000 inmates. Although still primarily a camp dominated by Polish prisoners, by 1942 people from all corners of the Third Reich were arriving in cattle trucks. Citizens of some 25 countries were incarcerated, including English servicemen, Jews, Roma, Dutch, French and Italians.

Slave labour, starvation and rampant disease all took their toll. Prisoners were executed using lethal injection, firing squads and gallows and, in a bid to streamline the killing process, June 1944 saw the decision to add a gas chamber and crematorium. Of the 50,000 Jews transported to Stutthof, only 3,000 lived to see liberation. At the start of 1945, and with the Nazis in retreat, the shattered prisoners were ‘evacuated’ and forced on arduous death marches to camps further west. Brutally exposed to the elements, thousands died from exhaustion. The camp was finally liberated by the Red Army on May 9, 1945. [...]


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Stutthof is unfortunately regarded by many as a 'forgotten camp', something reflected by the lack of English language displays. However the sheer weight of history behind it makes it an intriguing, and distressing, day trip. In spite of efforts by the Nazis to hide all traces of their atrocities, much of the original camp remains standing.

In what was once the camp headquarters visitors can now view a sobering documentary film detailing day-to-day life in Stutthof. Screenings can be seen every half hour. Past the main gates the wooden barracks house horrifying exhibitions. Piles of shoes, countless photographs of emaciated inmates, prisoners' drawings, Christmas cards, poems and other personal belongings all paint a vivid and heartbreaking picture. Disturbingly, the splendid residence of the camp commandant just outside the main camp is now a private house.

Many barracks have been preserved as they were, and visitors can walk amidst the stacks of bunks which were often crammed with up to four prisoners per bed. Also remaining are the canteen and horrific sanitary block, in which 4,500 prisoners were expected to wash in little over an hour.

Unsurprisingly epidemics raged regularly. The 'hospital' block, rather than being a bona fide infirmary, was actually no more than a place of execution. It was here that thousands of prisoners were murdered using phenol injections to the heart. The very sight of basic utensils, surgical bed and clumsy needles are still enough to send waves of revulsion through the body.

The barracks to the right of the main entrance house displays detailing the struggle of the local resistance and are a must see for those interested in the history of Gdańsk/Danzig. Also of note is a scale model of Stutthof and its related sub-camps, as well as an interesting exhibition of photographs that puts faces to the men responsible for running the camp. Heinrich Himmler's visit to the camp is also documented, and there are several pictures of him inspecting his troops and enjoying banquets at the camp commandant's house. Having been 'selected' prisoners were herded to the gas chamber at the top end of the camp. Using Zyklon B gas they were summarily murdered, and their bodies disposed in the gloomy crematorium nearby.

Dominating the skyline is a giant memorial to those who suffered. Known as the Monument to Fight and Freedom, it was designed by Wiktor Tolkin and unveiled on May 12, 1968, the 23rd anniversary of the camp's liberation. Forming a part of the monument, a reliquary showcases a grizzly display of human bones recovered from the camp. Remembrance services are held on the first Sunday of every September.

Equally disturbing is the memorial dubbed the Holocaust Stake. A 500-metre walk through the forest, this is no more than an excavated mass grave. Prior to the building of the gas chamber it was here that Jews were executed by firing squads, their bodies then burnt on funeral pyres. A ring of symbolic stones now mark the edge of the pit. [...]


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ul. Muzealna 6, Sztutowo
tel. 055 247 83 53
Open 07:00 - 15:00. Monday Open on request.. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.