Heading west 10km, the next stop is the so-called Pearl of Pomerania, Chmielno, a small lakeside town of 4,000 people. Dating from the 13th century, Chmielno has seen more than its fair share of devastation over the centuries. Now a centre for Kashubian ceramics as well as a popular water-based holiday destination, a visit here can easily be extended over a day or more.

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