Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in your hand, recounting the events of the night before, making half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft art projects you’ll never follow though with. In fact some people seem to have made a living out of such blissful idleness (they’re called ex-pats). While all of Kraków may seem like a beer garden in the warmer months, contrary to the evidence in front of you, it is not legal to drink in public spaces, whether it’s the Planty or the Wisła riverbank. Nor should you need to. With more bars per capita than anywhere else in Europe, suddenly every single one has a garden full of patio furniture the first day the sun comes out. So which to choose? Most tourists will keep to the Market Square (C-3), and while the views and vibe are super, the prices are a bit rich. On the square’s south-west side seek out the courtyard of Buddha Bar (Rynek 6, C-3) where on weekends DJs spin records under the stars. Other Old Town notables include Ministerstwo (ul. Szpitalna 1, C-3), Baroque (ul. Św. Jana 16, C-2), Klub Re (D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 4) and Bunkier Cafe (Pl. Szczepański 3a, B-2) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty. Track down to Kazimierz, however to enjoy alfresco drinking at its best. The bars around Plac Nowy (D-6) are a no-brainer, but note that Le Scandale (Pl. Nowy 6) has plenty of space hidden in its courtyard. For the district’s most scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20), and don’t forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far less lively than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well and catches sun later into the evening.