The Painted Village
Zalipie is a small secluded village in Małopolska where you’ll find Polish folk art traditions to be perhaps more alive than anywhere else in the country. Since the late 19th century the women of Zalipie have been practising folk painting by decorating their homes inside and out with bright, floral patterns making this village one of the most photogenic places you could ever brandish a camera. Best of all, Zalipie is well enough off the tourist trail that it hasn’t been overlycorrupted by commercialism; even amongst Poles it is not a highly-trafficked tourist destination and your presence there will be met with smiles, welcoming gestures and plenty of inquisitiveness from the villagers themselves. The residents are very open about having guests and will often invite visitors into their homes to see their artwork. Few adventures could be more authentic, so if you’ve got some time to plumb around Poland, put this little marvel on your list.

What To See
There are upwards of 20 painted houses in Zalipie with a dozen or so others scattered about the neighbouring villages of Kuzie, Niwka, Kłyż and a few others. As Zalipie is a village there’s no central district to gravitate to; most of the sights can be accessed by foot, but it is ideal to have a car, bicycle or other mode of transport. The joy of a visit is in wandering around the coutryside discovering and admiring the cheerful decorations. In addition to the homes, these include several roadside crosses and also the village church, the interior of which is filled with painted figures and ornate touches. Many of the villagers wear their regional folk attire to services, so if you coincide your visit with mass (this being Poland, that shouldn’t be so difficult) you’ll have an extra memorable experience. Even the town’s firetruck has flowers painted on it. On Zalipie’s country roads you will see all manner of inanimate surfaces painted with similar symmetrical floral bouquets over white backgrounds, with window framing traditionally being a bright blue. Barns, fences, outhouses, wells, chicken coops, and even doghouses have all gotten this treatment; basically, if it doesn’t move, it’s been livened with colour. Even more impressive are the home interiors where not only the walls, but the ceilings and ceiling beams are adorned with painted wreaths and garlands, flowers brighten the stoves, fireplaces, doorframes, tablecloths, pots and pans, vases and most everyday household items with any sort of surface area. Other acts of handicraft you’ll notice are straw spiders hanging from the ceiling and colourful paper bouquets, often beneath or beside religious icons. Remember, these are people’s homes so be respectful, however there is no need to be bashful about admiring them. The women of Zalipie are very proud of their tradition and will be happy to see you taking an interest. As stated, invitations inside are common and some women will even have items for sale. The prices of these items – which range from cutting boards to coffee cups – are very reasonable, especially for a piece of genuine Polish folk art the like of which has all but disappeared throughout the rest of the country. Therefore, haggling is rude unless you feel you’re really being taken for a rube.

The Felicja Curyłowa Farmstead Museum
Zalipie’s most celebrated artist was Felicja Curyłowa (1904- 1974), who most embodied the spirit of Zalipie and was often visited by passersby and tourists. Upon her death, the Cepelia Foundation – Poland’s folk art preservation and promotion organisation (see their stand in Kraków’s Cloth Hall in the middle of the market square) – bought her property and in 1978 transferred it to the care of the Tarnów Regional Museum. Several other local 19th century buildings, including a barn, pigsties and a woodshed, were moved to the farmstead and today it is accessible to the public as an openair museum of folk architecture and art. Most impressive is the interior of Curyłowa’s three-room residence filled with decorative ornaments by the artist, original furnishings, farm tools, folk costumes and paper crafts. ul. Zalipie 196, tel. 014 641 19 12, www.muzeum. tarnow.pl. Open 10:00-14:00, closed Monday and Saturday. Admission 3/2zł, photography fee 5zł. [If the museum is closed, admission may still be possible by inquiring at the house across the street. If visiting outside the normal opening hours you will be asked to pay twice the normal ticket cost.]

Painters’ House (Dom Malarek)
At this local art center and workshop you can see women at work on the beautiful local crafts on sale in the adjoining shop. This is also a good place to get information, maps and guides to the area. ul. Zalipie 128a, tel. 014 641 19 38. Open 8:00-18:00 Mon-Fri, 8:00-16:00 Sat & Sun.

Getting To Zalipie
(with or without leaving Kraków) Located in the middle of nowhere near the confluence of the Wisła and Dunajec rivers, Zalipie is not that easy to get to, but you have to appreciate that this is the very reason it is still such a special place to visit. Just under 100km west of Kraków and 36km north of Tarnów (see Further Afield, page 122), Zalipie is most easily accessed by car. The journey from Kraków takes 2-2.5 hours; a good map is essential and a GPS device would be an even better wingman. A few daily buses make the trip from Tarnów – the nearest city of any size – for only 6.50zł, but it takes about 1.5 hours to get there via this regional route. Alternatively, you could hitchhike, but don’t bank on spending the night there unless it’s in a field. For accomodation in the area, your best bet is probably Tarnów. If you can’t make it to Zalipie but still fancy a taste of what it’s like, then we recommend you visit the Kraków Ethnographic Museum (see Sightseeing, page 112) where you’ll see cottage interiors and other regional folk traditions similar to those found in Zalipie. Kraków’s Old Town is also home to a Zalipie-themed restaurant decorated in the same manner, with great murals and some solid traditional food. A real throwback, U Zalipianek (see Restaurants, page 84) also features grey-haired waitresses who aren’t as cheerful as the interiors or their folk attire, but it’s dirt cheap and has a great terrace right on the Planty. Worth a look, even if you aren’t hungry. [There aren’t any restaurants in Zalipie by the way, so pack a lunch or be satisfied by what you find in the shops in town.] If you’re interested in buying some traditional Polish folkware, visit the Cloth Hall in the centre of the market square or see our Shopping section (page 130) for other ideas and venues.

Events
An annual contest dating back to 1948, The Painted Cottage Competition (Malowana Chata) is a celebration of Polish folk culture that helps keep the tradition of house painting alive today. Held in Zalipie the weekend after Corpus Christi, this year’s events will take place on June 13th and 14th.