Though seemingly oxymoronic, Eszeweria actually thrives thanks to the stewardship of ambitious, music-loving bohemians. Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria's old world antiques, candleabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls play host to some of the city's most novel concerts, having become the go-to contact for overseas artists slumming around Europe. Though the stage (or lack thereof) is awkward, the atmosphere is intimate and friendly, and the restroom may be the most romantic in town (no wonder there's a queue). Smoker-friendly and recommended.