One of Kraków’s most unique and singular Christmas  traditions is the popular creation of ‘szopki.’ Something of a strange cross between a nativity scene, gingerbread house and dollhouse, szopki are the bizarre result of a slowly evolving folk tradition that dates back to the Middle Ages. Originally used as mini puppet theatres upon which morality plays were performed during the holiday season, szopki gradually became more whimsical, secular and satirical in nature, leading to an ironic ban on them on church property in the 1700s and a prohibition against their construction in the 19th century by which time they had developed into a powerful political tool used in the cafes and cabarets of the Old Town to criticise the occupying powers. Upon Poland’s return to the world map after World War I, the szopki tradition was re-embraced becoming the celebrated custom it is today.

Popularised as a way for 19th century masons and other craftsmen to make some extra money during the drizzly autumn months, szopki are now made by all walks of life; in fact szopki dynasties have developed as generations of the same family build a new elaborate szopka every year. Using a variety of lightweight materials and covering them with coloured foil, ribbon and other shiny bits, a typical szopka is bright and cheerful and attempts to integrate the city’s topography into the traditional Bethlehem nativity scene. Though commonly called ‘Christmas cribs’ in English, szopki look more like castles or cathedrals than cribs (in fact they in absolutely no way resemble cribs), the general rule being that they incorporate characteristics of Kraków’s range of historic architectural styles. Most szopki are loosely-based off the design of Mariacki church with its landmark spires; however miniatures of other unique buildings like Wawel Castle, the Sukiennice and the Barbakan have also been made. Generally, baby Jesus can be found amongst the glittering surfaces of the second floor, while the ground floor is tenanted by figures from Krakowian history and legend like Pan Twardowski, Tadeusz Kościuszko or the Wawel dragon.

Cracow Crib Competition:
To support this unique folk tradition, the city has sponsored a szopka competition since 1937. As per tradition, the competition will begin on December 1st this year (the first Thursday in December) at 9:00 when cribmakers and szopka specialists will gather on the main market square with this year’s entries, displaying them for the public around the Adam Mickiewicz monument. Everyone is welcome to participate and encouraged to admire the truly bizarre and ornately decorated art-pieces of all sizes, free of charge. Later they will be moved indoors to the History Museum on the other side of the Rynek, where they will be on display throughout the holidays until February 26th. On Sunday (the 4th) awards will be given at 12:00 to the winners in a number of categories. Each year, the most intricate and interesting szopki are added to the permanent collection of the Kraków History Museum. [Open 09:00-18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00. Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Mon 3zł.]

Each church in Kraków also takes special pride in their szopka, some of which are motorized or centuries old, so don’t miss dropping into various holy places as you wander the Old Town during this festive season. Of particular note are Pijarów Cathedral at the end of ul Św. Jana (C-2), which has developed a reputation for having each year’s most unconventional szopka on display in its cellar, and Kapucynow cathedral at ul. Loretańska 11 (A-3) where you can see one of the oldest and most popular szopka in Poland, dating back to the 19th century.