What was formerly the pride of socialist Łódź has gone some way to reinventing itself – ok, so it still looks a right pig from the outside, but the Centrum is slowly scratching off the dust and dragging itself into the real world. The refurbed rooms are fine, if a little anonymous; solve that problem by booking into the David Lynch suite – the director stays here whenever he’s in town, and his sumptuous quarters include a kitchen, office and an ocean-sized bath.