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Lodz | Sightseeing | Litzmannstadt Ghetto

Visit Warsaw, Wrocław, Wycombe even, and you’ll find countless examples of literary mastery to aid your enjoyment of the city. Not so in Łódź, where a trip to tourist information will reveal just a handful of books written in your chosen tongue. So, it’s a good job that what there is, is actually very good. One author in particular has nailed the market, and that’s journalist Joanna Podolska, a local-based hack with a clear passion for the city. There’s two books of note here. First up, there’s ‘Łódź – The Golden Book’, a glossy A-4 size effort that retails for approximately 50zł. Presented inside are all the key sights, accompanied by a through commentary that will plug all the gaps in your knowledge. The photography here is superb as well, with several close-up shots of Piotrkowska facades, as well as old archive material such as postcards of pre-war Jewish Łódź. It’s Jewish history that particularly interests Podolska, and that’s the subject of her second book, ‘Traces of the Litzmannstadt-Getto’. As the title suggests, this diary sized book takes readers on a step-by-step tour of the Jewish Ghetto, with detailed commentaries complimented by black and white photographs snapped by Ghetto chroniclers. Put simply this is an absolute must-have and the finest work you’ll find on this chapter in the history of Łódź. Best of all, it’s yours for 30zł. By Podolska’s own admission it’s still very much a work in progress, so keep your eyes peeled for re-prints and updates.You can find the books at EMPiK at ul. Piotrkowska 81 or in Tourist Info outlets.
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Jews first came to Łódź in large numbers during the 1830s, attracted by the opportunities offerd to all classes of people in this thriving city. By the 1840s 21 per cent of the city’s population was Jewish. After 1862, when new laws gave Jews greater freedom in where th [...]



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Many Jews who survived the Holocaust descended on Łódź at the end of the war, and a new, even thriving community sprang up. Though there were two major waves of state-sponsored emigration to Israel (in 1948 and 1957-8) there remains a thriving Jewish community of around 5,000 [...]



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“Today we are building a bridge of memory and dialogue over the decades of tragic forgetfulness.”

Marek Belka, Prime Minister of Poland, 2004.
As with many sights of Holocaustal importance across Eastern Europe, Radegast Station - from where as many 200,000 Łódź Jews left for the death camps of Chełmno and Auschwitz – has only recently been accorded the honour and respect it deserves. It has been thoughtfully restored as a place of rememberance, and though it is a long walk from the centre of Łódź (it is on ul. Stalowa, H-2) it is well worth it.
Three original Deutsche Bahn cattle trucks stand poignantly at the station’s platform with their doors open (pictured left), as if another trainload of Jews is imminent. Though most visitors are tempted to enter the wagons, almost none actually do. Elsewhere there are large signposts – in the shape of headstones – denoting the destinations of the trains which left here: Chełmno, Auschwitz. There are also plaques commemorating the Jews of Vienna and Luxembourg, who were transported to the death camps after transiting through the ghetto. The plaque from the city of Vienna is suitably, simply repentant:

“The city of Vienna commemorates its citizens in mourning and in shame.”
Indeed. [...]



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The Łódź Ghetto was one of the largest Jewish ghettos set up in Nazi-controlled Europe. It stretched over much of the north-central part of the city, comprising the area north of Staromeijski Park (Old Łódź), and out as far as the Jewish Cemetery to the [...]



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The ghetto entirely surrounded Łódź’s major market: Bałucki Rynek, which the Nazis were keen to keep open. To achieve this, the Nazi’s sealed off the market and its access roads, allowing traffic to come and go without entering the ghetto. In effect this created two separate ghettos. These were split by the market and Zgierska, and linked by three bridges: two ran over Zgierska and another linked the divided street of Zachodnia. The bridges have become a symbol of the ghetto, and appear on all ghetto literature. The bridge pictured below was on lower Zgierska, linking Podrzeczna to Stary Rynek (all streets named are on B/C-1). Neither the bridge nor the surrounding buildings remain today.
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The area which once formed the Ghetto is today covered with Socialist Realist leftovers, as well as whole swathes of buildings that seemingly haven’t seen a lick of paint since the Germans left. It’s a real rundown part of the city this, and frankly you’d be advised to keep the camera hidden and a spring-loaded truncheon at hand. On the plus side, the intrepid explorer will be rewarded by a moving trip back in time. Filled with forgotten courtyards and derelict doorways it’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk the streets of Łódź’s now silent Jewish quarter. The walking tour we highlight overleaf is just a taster – for the full experience pick up a Ghetto Map from Tourist Information. Before setting off it’s worth bearing in mind a couple of points; firstly, you will be covering a distance of approximately ten kilometers, so its probably not best to attempt this in the middle of summer with a computer bag strapped to you. Secondly, while the map is excellent the descriptions are at best, brief. To get the most out of the sites you’ll be passing be sure to pick up a copy of Joanna Podolska’s ‘Traces of the Litzmannstadt-Getto’ (see Further Reading for details). Finally, the official Tourist Information map recommends starting at the Rynek before concluding your tour at Radegast Station. While this is a logical route for those who wish to follow the chronological history of the Ghetto, it’s certainly not the most practical. Radegast is in the middle of nowhere, so to get the most out of your day we suggest taking a taxi first to Radegast, and then following the trail all the way back to the centre – not vice versa.
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Though Łódź is unquestionably a Polish city, we have used the German name for the ghetto – Litzmannstadt – as this is how most people who lived and survived in it (as well as their descendants) will remember it. It is also the name used by the City of Ł&# [...]



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