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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps POZNAŃ March - June 2008 The Piast Route Follow the beginning of Poland Quick Picks Poznań in a hurry N°19 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1642-2902 CONTENTS 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents The Basics Surviving Poz 16 22 27 35 50 52 Too much to do, too little time? You won’t be the first to be stumped by all Poznań has to offer, so we’ve sifted through the chaff to bring you a menu of activities that will suit everyone from Romeo and Juliet, to students with odd socks. Check out Poznań’s highlights on p. 14. Culture & Events This seasons highlights Where to stay Accommodation for all pockets Restaurants The highs and lows Cafes Nightlife Hedonists handbook Sightseeing What to see The city inside out Kornik Castles of Wielkopolska Gniezno 63 72 74 75 80 85 86 89 91 92 94 96 97 98 March - June 2008 Getting around Planes, trains & automobiles Mail & Phones Shopping Directory Maps & Index City centre map City map Country map Street index Listings index Feature index Poland was born here. We bring you the story behind Poland’s first ruling dynasty, and all the sites you’ll be ticking off. See page 6. Photo by J. Andrejewski. 4 FOREWORD So, what can you expect if you’re new to Poznan. First off, you’ve chosen a cracking time to visit. Not long back a night out in The Poz was as much fun as a night in with The Pox. How fast things change. There was a time when the only foreign visitors you’d find would be the collars and cufflinks sorts harrying to-and-from board meetings. That’s changed, and the towns nightlife is no longer left in the hands of the students, thank god. Budget flights and nippy train connections mean the city has never been so accessible, and this outside influence is clear to see in the raft of new look bars, clubs and pubs you’ve got to pick from. True, there’s still a few gnarled veterans who persist in flooding tables with non-absorbent napkins, and still more places that ruin all their good work with repellent toilets more suited to a Bulgarian prison. But these places are fast occupying the margins, pushed aside instead by restaurants offering more than the staple farmyard bloodfest, and bars that wouldn’t be out of place on the high streets of the west – the only difference is the price. A dull time is no longer an option; Poznan is awake, and doesn’t plan on going to bed – neither should you. A night on the town is a must, but so is a day on the streets. The old town is a treasure chest of sights, all comfortably ensconced in a stunning collection of baroque and renaissance styled buildings. The emphasis is on local history, but it’s not hard to trip over the weird and wacky. Sightseeing here is a box of surprises, with everything from Egyptian mummies to meteor craters. So whether you’re here for a wicked weekend with the wife-in-waiting, with the lads from down the football, or crossing off towns as you train it round Europe you’ll find everything you need to enjoy the city inside this miraculous paper guardian. Enjoy it. As always we welcome all feedback. Catch us on editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Till the next time. Editorial E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Writer Alex Webber Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo Research Anna Rulaff, Katarzyna Laskowska, Justyna Pelczarska Events Bartosz Lubieński Design Tomáš Haman Photography A. Webber, Lena Wachacka Cover Courtesy of Poznan City Hall Europe In Your Pocket Brunch - The best recipe for Sunday Dublin In Your Pocket, launched in December of last year, has already proven to be a massive hit: so much so that word from our Irish correspendent has it that other cities on the island will follow sooner rather than later. We will keep you posted. Writing for Athens In Your Pocket is also now close to completion, with the first issue scheduled for an April 1 launch. An online version of the Athens guide should be available some time before: check our website www.inyourpocket.com and blog, at blog. inyourpocket.com for updates. Elsewhere Mostar, Belgrade and Ljubljana In Your Pocket are all in the planning stage and due to appear this year. Ingredients: Copyright notice Text and photos copyright WIYP 1999/2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). 16 appetizers 10 main courses 10 desserts 7 kinds of beverage Red and white wine Sparkling, red & white wine Team of helpful waiters Selected cooks 90 seats Time of preparation: 0 minutes Duration: 12:30 till 17:00 Everything for 130PLN per person Kids under 6 – free Below 12 – 50 % Company office & Accounts Basia Olszewska WIYP Sp. z o.o. ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot 058 555 08 31 poznan@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Printing CGS Published 15,000 copies, 3 times per year Preparation: Sales & Circulation Assistant: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18 Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz 0606 749 676 Representative: Anna Chłapek 0668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Lena Wachacka-Suray 0606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Monika Kitson 0503 057 142 Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Invite friends and family. Get ready for some unforgettable moments of fine dining with no need to cook. Your little ones can play in our colourful, kids’ corner under our supervision. Everything is spiced up with live music and a cozy atmosphere to make your Sunday all the more enjoyable . Maps Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica 31-042 Kraków, tel./fax 012 421 24 48 agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl Book your table under (61) 655 2000 gss.poznan@sheraton.com www.sheraton.pl/poznan Sheraton Poznan Hotel Bukowska 3/9, Poznan Poznań In Your Pocket 6 THE BIRTH OF POLAND Seeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’s safe to assume it has a history to match the greatest of nations. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and its origins would be to come up with a tome thick enough to stun an elephant. So we’ve skipped a few steps and come up with the idiot’s guide to the birth of Poland, and the key sights that the amateur historian should view. Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. The Piast Route covers the most important sites connected with Poland’s early beginnings, and presents the mobile tourist with a number of forts, cathedrals, ruins and miscellaneous locations to visit. Below we present a slimmed down list of the best of the best; for a comprehensive list the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organization at www.turystyka.powiat-gniezno.pl. Beginnings Poland’s first ruling family were the Piast’s, and although legend has the family line going back to the 8th century we’ll start our story with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on the face of the ten złoty note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved around the battlefield, leading his troops into battle from the Baltic Coast to the plains of Silesia. When he wasn’t hacking heads off he spent most of his time in the Wielkopolska region, specifically in his fortresses J. Andrejewski in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrow Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded the cathedral in Poznań two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the nation’s Christianisation. Following his death in 992 he was succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł note), and it’s around this time where our story gathers pace. Adalbert had been the first Bishop of Prague, though the strains of the job proved too much for him. Seeking a quieter life he took up residence in Gniezno. Persuaded out of exile he set off to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes to Christianity. It turned out to be a foolish move: he was killed immediately, his head ending up on a spike. Bolesław decided to recover the corpse, and made the perilous journey westwards to do so. A ransom was paid and he headed back to Poland with the corpse in tow. It was a selfless act, and one that so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III – the head of the Holy Roman Empire – to Gniezno in 1000 to view the body and meet with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had himself crowned king. Commonly known as Bolesław the Great or Bolesław Chrobry the nation’s first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing through his smart diplomacy. His son and heir, Mieszko II, didn’t fare so well, dying in suspicious circumstances nine years into his reign. In spite of his sticky demise the Piast’s remained in power, and continued to rule Poland for centuries to come. Their successes were hit-and-miss, and the rulers frequently found themselves at conflict with the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened to disintegrate, and it wasn’t until the coronation in 1320 of Władysław I that concerted efforts were once more made to unite Poland’s different provinces. The work of Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later be known through history as Kazimierz the Great – he doubled the size of Poland, stabilized the economy, and commissioned the construction of a number of castles and forts. What he failed to do, however, was have a son. Not one of his four wives was able to bear him a son, and his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty. Poznań Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poz in 968AD, and from 1138–1295 Poznań briefly operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court. The oldest point of interest is Ostrów Tumski, and though nothing remains of the 9th century fortress that once stood here the cathedral, Poland’s first, is open to visitors. The cathedral has had a tough time, destroyed and remodeled numerous times, though the crypt has survived the vicissitudes of time and contains the bodies of Poland’s first rulers – Mieszko I and Bolesław the Great. Gniezno Of all the towns, villages and cities in Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno. This was Poland’s first capital, and its cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of Poland’s former monarchy – it’s here Poland’s first five kings were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while a follow up solo tour allows you to take stock of the riches and relics before you. Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the cathedral are the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronze doors dating from the 12th century, and it’s here you’ll begin your tour. Regarded as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels, each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St Adalbert. Start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel, and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the fourteenth. That’s his head on a stick in the next. Now, here’s the interesting part. This might be one of the most important treasures in Poland, but no-one has a clue who designed it. In fact, it’s highly likely the pair of doors weren’t even made together. Look closely and you’ll see that the left side is higher and wider, as well as more detailed in its engravings, indicating that the set of doors are possibly the work of a master and his apprentice. We do know they probably originated in Germany, but the trail stops there. Poznań In Your Pocket 8 THE BIRTH OF POLAND The portal that frames the door is worth further investigation in its own right. Dating from 1400 it features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to heaven). The two swords in his mouth are symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth, while the animals carved in stone represent human vices – for instance the rabbit is cowardice, the squirrel greed and the fox cunning. Keep your eyes peeled for the scratching on the left side – what looks like the work of a vandals key is actually the sign of the craftsmen who built the portal (in those days artists marked their work with a sign, not a signature). On the left of the entrance is a commemorative plate remembering the 139 local priests who died in Nazi concentration camps. Their names are inscribed in the metal, while illustrated are the gateways to the five camps that claimed their lives. Turning round to face the way you came in you’ll find the portraits of the five chaps who were crowned in Gniezno. Next up on your tour is a trip to the crypt. Opened with the kind of keys you imagine a ghost jangling the gates lead to a sprawling basement packed with interest and intrigue. First off there’s Poland’s oldest gravestone, dating from 1006 and recently deciphered to read ‘Free Warriors’. Close by there’s a tiny infant’s grave, as well as the remains of a fireplace that pre-dates the cathedral – indication that the site was most probably a pagan place of worship. Early foundations and details have also been excavated, and one can view remains of an early alter, walls and tiled flooring (whose patterning is copied on the ten złoty note). It’s here you’ll also be able to view the coffins of the past primates of Poland, as well as a collection of mysterious looking urns and pots. And so, onto the cathedral proper. The bad news is that it’s currently subject to a massive restoration effort. Not only does this mean that a number of the side chapels are blocked off, it also means your moment of quiet contemplation is likely to be interrupted by a sweaty brickie cursing like a sailor as he drops his hammer. Work is liable to drag on for several months, so consider investing in some ear plugs. The good news is that once work is completed Gniezno Cathedral will look finer than ever. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the cathedral has been patched up and embellished over the course of time (check out the illustrations of the cathedral’s changing face in the crypt), and nowadays it is the baroque flourishes that steal the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of mustsee details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomes invaluable. First off, you’ll have differences between the nave and presbytery pointed out – the style of the former suggests it was built in Germany, while the latter has a design more familiar with English and French workshops. The 13 arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. Head to the furthest side chapel on the left of the main entrance to see paintings of Polish saints, passing on your way one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Krakow. It’s from this chapel you’re allowed a view straight down the cathedral; those with eagle eyes will note that the cathedral is not built to a straight line. Rather than signifying the use of rogue builders during the cathedrals construction, this is actually meant to symbolize Christ’s head lolling to the side after being nailed to the cross. In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels, whom when grouped together constitute the largest collection of ecclesiastical grating in the country. Behind these metal grills are a number of points of interest, including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed. The confession, situated at the top end of the cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St Peter’s in Rome. Behind it is the silver sarcophagus of St Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country the silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight. Unfortunately many of the side chapels are currently curtained off, and visitors are also denied the opportunity to view the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by Poland’s former regents. As frustrating as this locked door policy is it’s fully understandable. The cathedral has had misfortune served up by the spade. Its significance to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no other reason other than drunken spite. The Nazis, on the other hand, had other plans. Hitler’s portrait replaced that of St Adalbert and the cathedral was earmarked to serve as a concert venue for high ranking fascists. However, on the opening night, just when these Nazi nabobs were settling into their seats a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall, disappearing into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but none hit their mark. Was this a ghostly apparition, or simply the work of a local prankster? Thoroughly spooked the Nazis weren’t hanging around to find out, and plans to turn the cathedral into a concert hall were shelved thereafter. Although the German occupiers refused to set foot in the cathedral it still wasn’t safe from their beastly designs. Employing Volksdeutsch workers they set about stripping the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to shady vaults. The confession escaped them, however, hidden single-handedly by one conscientious worker. The organ too survived, only to be blown to smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell shared the same fate, and the original one now lies outside the main entrance. The bell tower is open in better weather and its 214 steps lead to panoramic views across town. What you won’t find however is a bell – ever since the Russians re-arranged the cathedral all the bells have been housed in a separate building. So, that’s the cathedral, possibly the most important religious building in Poland, and hands down the most important sight on the trail of the Piast kings. For further information on Gniezno, including how to get there, what to see, where to eat – and where not too eat – turn to page 75. Restauracja Bażanciarnia - Ul. Stary Rynek 94, 61-773 Poznań - Tel. 061-855-33-58/59 Bażanciarnia. A restaurant created by the architect of innovative Polish cuisine – Magda Gessler. Elegant and sensual Polish and European cuisine with specialties straight from the books of Ćwierczakiewiczowa: pates, salads, game, wild meats as well as Spanish gazpacho, French fois gras and Italian tagliatelle. Add to this the best wines, whisky, cognacs, the warmth of candles, atmospheric music and the aroma of home-baked cakes ... An exclusive place setting the gastronomical standard not just on Poznan’s Old Market Square. J. Andrejewski Poznań In Your Pocket Welcome guest across our threshold. 10 THE PIAST ROUTE Ostrów Lednicki Found between Poznań and Gniezno a trip to Lake Lednicki allows the opportunity to visit the Museum of the First Piasts – Poland’s largest open-air museum. Situated on an island tourists get to wander around the 10th century ruins of a castle and church once used by both Mieszko I and his son. Once connected to the mainland by a pair of bridges the fortress is thought to have played its part during in repelling the Czech invasion of 1038 and archaeological relics that have been recovered since include weaponry, cutlery and the skeleton of a fallen Czech warrior. Wenecja Five kilometers south of Żnin, Wenecja (Venice) is a small settlement whose name alludes to its picturesque location tucked between three lakes. Known as the ‘Pearl of Pałuki’ the town is home to a Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, with its collection featuring a number of steam locomotives (the oldest dating back to 1900), various detritus recovered from the age of steam and a working line that takes captivated visitors all the way to Żnin (stopping at Biskupin). But the real point of interest here are the skeletal ruins of a former Piast stronghold. A leftover from the 14th century the castle once came under the ownership of Mikołaj Nałęcz, a nasty judge who originated from Kalisz. Nicknamed the ‘devil of Wenecja’ his ghost is said to stalk the ruins at night. Biskupin Kruszwica Found on the banks of Lake Gopło this is a historic market town that became one of the first fortified settlements in the region. Your camera lens is going to primarily be zooming in on the Mouse Tower (Mysia Wieża), a 32 metre structure sitting on the Rzępowski Peninsula. Apparently built during the reign of Kazimierz the Great the tower was awarded its name after a plague of rodents allegedly ate Prince Popiel – a devious chap who had poisoned some rivals. In 1933 an eagle-eyed school master spotted wooden stakes sticking out of some lakeside reeds and like a conscientious citizen went to investigate. What he had inadvertently stumbled on was to become known as the Polish Pompeii: a Lusatian fortified settlement dating from the early Iron Age. Excavation work was launched the following year, and carried on under the request of Himmler once Poland fell to Germany. Situated 90km north east of Poznań Biskupin has since become a popular symbol of patriotism, proof to many that Poland has always proudly defended its borders against the Germans. Today the wooden fortress has been fully reconstructed and is open throughout the year as an open air museum. Although not connected with the Piast dynasty it is seen as a vital part of the route that traces Poland’s early origins. Without a doubt Biskupin rates as one of the great wonders of Poland, but that doesn’t mean tourists will find it easy to get there. Your best bet is to either hire a car or hijack a helicopter. If you’re travelling from Poznań using public transport you’ll be left with no choice but spending a night in the local town of Żnin. For more info check the comprehensive English language website at www.biskupin.pl. Strzelno Al th ou gh a tiny town of just 12,000 Strzelno is one of the most important points on the trail of the Piasts. Visit St Adalbert’s Hill to view the Church of St Prokopus, a rotund house of worship whose history allegedly goes back to the 12th century. Next to it is the Basilica, and though i t was retou ch e d in Baro qu e s t yl e i t s h i s t o r y go e s way beyond those times; in 1946 routine restoration work by professor Zdzisław Kępinski revealed a set of Romanesque columns which had been hidden from view for over 200 years. These columns are thought to be over 800 years old, and the only similar ones on record are to be found in Venice and Santiago de Compostella. Wylatowo Founded in 1358 – right at the tail end of King Kazimierz’s rule – the town of Wylatowo has the most tenuous connections with the Piasts, however you’ll find it included in all the bumph related to the Piast Route because of two factors. Firstly, it’s home to the only triple-aisled wooden church in Poland (built 1761). Secondly, it’s famous for extra-terrestrial activity. We kid you not. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped object was photographed floating in the skies last year, with lab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles first started appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists. While some claim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking to make a quick buck science geeks and X-Files style investigations have yet to determine the cause of this annual summer phenomena. For more info, including live transmissions from the affected areas visit www.ufotv.pl. Trzemeszno Before St Adalbert’s corpse made it to Gniezno it was originally laid to rest in this town. Apparently founded in the 10th century Trzemeszno features a baroque church dating from the 18th century, as well as a monument to the local-born hero Jan Kiliński. A cobbler by trade he went on to become the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice Kiliński led his men to capture the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence, and he is said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism. Poznań In Your Pocket 12 TRADE FAIRS Most foreigner visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar with Poznań. However, those that do business in this part of the world know the city well. If you’re here on business you are probably already aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. It is estimated that over 60 per cent of all trade fairs held in Poland are held in Poznań at the International Fair Centre. Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back as far as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted special privileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznań developed this trading tradition to the point where, in 1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialised fair institution. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921, when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political and economic changes that periodically moved through Poland and Europe. After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918 with the advent of the second Polish Republic, the Poznań fair was instrumental in helping to re-integrate economic activities. It contributed to the task of creating a new Polish market and in demonstrating to the outside world Poland’s readiness for economic and commercial cooperation. It also helped with the complex task of unifying the three areas of Poland separated during the partitions and in which different fiscal, monetary and legal systems operated. In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International Fair held the Universal National Exhibition, which showed the world the achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state. Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including delegations from many foreign countries. Poznań International Fair was one of the few fairs that managed to survive the great economic crisis of 1929-1932 and by the outbreak of WWII it was considered one of Europe’s leading fairs. However, the war had a catostrophic ef fect on the International Fair complex. The Germans used the buildings for storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On Easter Sunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, the British Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as Stanislaw Laskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 was rebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Department of Trade and Industry. In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the first post-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home (Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anew in 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in the years 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by the Cold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product Poznań International Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperating with foreign countries again. Trade fair schedule March 04 - 06 Tex–Style - Trade Fair of Fabrics, Clothing and Accessories (UFI), Body Style - Exhibition of Lingerie and Beach Fashion, Special Days - Exhibition of Wedding, First Communion and Evening Fashion. Fair of Shoes, Leather and Leather Goods (UFI), Intermasz - International Trade Fair of Textile, Clothes and Shoemaking Machines March 12 - 14 Salamed - International Medical Fair Euro-Reklama Outdoor Expo - International Trade Fair of Advertising Goods and Services April 01 - 04 Furnica, Drema and Furnifab fairs - Trade Fair of Components for Furniture Production, Machines and Tools for the Furniture Industry (UFI) and the Furniture Fabric show April 11-12 Poznań Optical Exhibition* April 11-13 Gardenia - Garden Trade Fair April 22 - 25 Instalacje, Sawo and Securex - International Trade Fairs for Installations and Equipment, Work Protection, Firefighting and Rescue Equipment and Security April 26 - 27 Look, Beauty Vision - Hairdressing Forum and Cosmetics and Solaria Forum May 09 - 11 Fit - Expo Fitness & Sport Park Poznań Automotive Meetings May 10 - 11 Electronic Sports World Cup Poland (ESWC) May 13 - 15 Expopower - International Exhibition of Power Industry May 15 - 17 Dentistry Congress May 28 - 31 Budima Interior, Meble, Home Decor - Interior Finishing and Renovation Show, Furniture Fair and Interior Design and Home Furnishings Shows June 09 - 11 Infosystem IT - for industry and administration UFI June 09 - 12 Hape - Exhibition for Hydraulics, Pneumatics and Drives, Mach-Tool - Machine Tools Exhibition, Metalforum - Exhibition of Metallurgy, Foundry Engineering and Metal Industry Surfex - Exhibition of Surface Treatment Technologies, Technogaz - Gas and Oil Exhibition Transporta - Exhibition of Logistic, Transport and Forwarding, Welding - Science for the Economy UFI - Trade Fair in association with UFI – Global Association of the Exhibition Industry * - Organisor: Interregional Guild of Optical Crafts in Poznań Trade fairs Poznań International Fairs (Międzynarodowe Targi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061 869 20 00, fax 061 866 58 27, info@mtp.pl, www. mtp.pl. tel. 061 866 10 50, wtc-poznan@wtc-poznan.com. pl, www.wtc-Poznań.com.pl. The WTC fosters world trade and promotes international business relationships. WTC runs a visitor information desk during every fair, where foreigners can get free fair passes and information on the relevant industrial sector in English, Russian and German. It also has a business centre and a bar.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska 12, Poznań In Your Pocket 14 QUICK PICKS Poznań condensed Eat Local The seminal Polski experience is offered at W-Z (p 48), a huge wood-fitted venue where guests inflate themselves on obscene portions of local classics. At the other end of the price scale go upmarket and visit what is regarded as the classiest Polish venue in town: Bazanciarnia (p 37). You’ll guess by the pheasant theme that it’s game that’s the specialty here. This is a town of students, so finding places selling food for buttons isn’t a problem. The problem lies in the students; they’re not exactly known for their culinary tastes, and as such the budget options reflect this. Spagetheria (p 48) isn’t a bad choice, and you can rely on Sphinx (p 48) to hit your calorie quota in one go. Drink Relive the days of the People’s Republic of Poland by taking in a visit to Proletaryat (p 58) a commie themed pub littered with detritus recovered from dark days: Soviet issue army caps, pennants and paintings of Marx. For something classy and capitalist sample the local ales at the Brovaria microbrewery (p 53), or slum it with local students and thesps at the unforgettable Dragon (p 54). There’s nowhere in Poznań that will really break the bank so drinkers can look forward to some rollicking nights out. Committed cheapskates should head to the student ghetto along ul. Taczaka where pubs like Academic (p 52) and Corner Pub (p 54) sell alcoholic liquids at cut price. If straying out of old town isn’t your scene then stand shoulder-to-shoulder with pissed brainboxes in Déjà vu (p 54). Local Sleep I f you’ve had one too many of the brews at the aforementioned Brovaria (p 27) then no problem, bed down in their hotel upstairs. It’s a lovely, upmarket effort, with views staring onto the Rynek. For something more traditional then it’s got to be Młyńskie Koło (p 31), a charismatic lodge fit for a squire. Hostelling has yet to take off in Poznań and choices are practically non-existent. So it’s a bit of a result that the one bona fide hostel in town, the Frolic Goats (p 32), not only has a fab name, but also very decent accommodation. Going up a level the insolvent should consider a stay in the Mini Hotelik (p 32). See QUICK PICKS Do Once you’ve seen the inside of the town hall, then take your time to circle it. Do so at noon and you’ll have the pleasure of noting a couple of mechanical goats (p 63) popping out of the tower on the stroke of noon, a tradition that dates back to 1551. Pick up a Poznań City Card (see p 16). It’ll win you free admission to scores of museums, as well as unlimited travel on trams and buses. 15 The old town should top any itinerary, and a trip to its centerpiece, the town hall, is an absolute must. Check out the Historical Museum (p 67) for the full story of the Poznań – from start to finish. Cheap Cheap Aspiring scrooges should check out our What to see section (p 63), paying particular attention to admission prices. Nearly all museums and galleries will open their doors free to the public once a week. If broken pots and old spears don’t do it for you then why not just walk around – the old town won’t disappoint. Lads You’ll need a slab of red meat in you before hitting the pubs, so why not get a steak down you in Rodeo Drive (p 35). Give some consideration to Someplace Else (p 36), a lively venue with decent pub grub served to the sound of live bands. Best of all, they’ve got Sky Sports, so there’s no chance of missing the game while you wait for some pillock to finish off his food. Dine at Alexander (p 39) inside a restaurant that bursts with cherubs and plant life. Alternatively hit Delicja (p 37) for something equally romantic, if little less OTT. Bazanciarnia (p 37) is the final word in quality, and a trip here will ensure she never cheats on you again. A no-brainer this one. Head to Coxy’s (p 54) for Sky Sports and the boozy atmosphere of your local back home. Dom Vikingków (p 59) also proves a popular destination for lads, especially the sports bar out in the back. Afterwards give your chat-up lines an airing in a club like Cute (p 61). Lads If you’re traveling in a pack then you’ll need to be checking into a hotel that can cope with numbers. If cash is no object then it’s got to be the Sheraton (p 28). Failing that go for another one of the biggies like Novotel Centrum (p 28), Ibis (p 30) or the System (p 32), all of which have plenty of beds to go round. The Domina Poznań Residence (p 27) is brilliant, with some excellent views and the sort of interiors you’d choose for your home if you had the cash. But to go really Cupid then head out of town and book lodgings at one of the manor houses found in the sticks. We can recommend Pałac Wąsowo (p 34) for saucy breaks. Brit lads should make a pilgrimage up to the Commonwealth Cemetery (p 66), where the bodies of those who took part in The Great Escape are buried. Or take a trip out to Poland’s best supported club and to one of the host stadia for Euro 2012 to see Lech Poznan Football Club (pg 58). Be syrup sweet and head to the zoo to giggle at penguins and other creatures who would probably bite you given half the chance. There’s two to choose from in Poznań (p 70). Once that’s chalked off head to the Parish Church of St Stanislaus (p 65). Beautifully pink and festooned with Baroque extravagances this is just the place in which to start dropping hints about settling down. See how the local bigshots live it up by booking a table at the Sheraton’s Sunday Brunch (p 28). An outlay of 130zł wins you unlimited booze and food from 12:30 to 17:00. Hold a piss-up in a brewery. The Lech Brewer y (p 70) organize tours and testing at their plant on the outskirts of town. Couples Fuego (p 55) is so overwhelmingly cheesy it’s worth a trip just for a cheap laugh. For something not quite so silly then Hipokryzja (p 55) is a darling of a bar, drowned in scarlet hues and soft lighting. Or how about Czerwony Fortepian (p 54), a posh jazz venue with frequently outstanding music. Couples Head to ul. Żydowska and one of the many cafes found on it. If the weather is behaving then the courtyard gardens here are unbeatable for a moonlit vino. In particular, check out Bordo (p 50) or, closer to the square, Cocorico (p 50) on ul. Świętosławska. Splurge Another nomination for Bazanciarnia (p 37), and you’ll know why after – this is the pinnacle of local dining. Le Palais du Jardin (p 37) also wins a mention. For something less stuffy and a little more inventive head to Fusion in the Sheraton (p 39) to see there’s more to dining in Poznań than ordering game. Nowhere is going to have your bank manager hunting you down with a shotgun, though Habana (p 55) has some seriously pricey booze on offer in equally upmarket surrounds. This is by far the classiest drinking option in town, and just the place where you should leave the keys to your Hummer on view. Splurge Domina Poznań Residence (p 27), Sheraton (p 28) and the Andersia (p 27) are excellent choices, with little to separate them. Take note all three will usually do special weekend rates allowing you to stay for a snip of the price – hunt around online for the best deal. There’s nowhere really wacky to sleep, though you could head out of town for a night in Dwór Skórzewski (p 34). Activities here include lessons in sausage making; that’ll liven conversation when you get home. Bring the plastic and hit the shops. You’ll find ul. Paderewskiego lined with designer boutiques, including Zegna, Escada, Max Mara and a soon to be opened Burberry. Abstract There’s nothing more nutty than eating in pitch darkness, and that’s exactly the concept at Dark Restaurant (p 40), an upmarket venue cloaked in permanent blackness. Also give Cymers a whirl (p 45), a quaint Jewish effort replete with antiques and heirlooms. There’s a wealth of choices here, but none hold a candle to Kieslice (p 56), a bonkers bar where anything goes. No trip to Poznań is complete without a look inside the self-styled K-Hole. You’ll meet a similar crowd of students, thesps, expats, hacks, losers and trendies in Dragon (p 54). Alternatively visit W Starym, Kinie (p 60) to drink in a former cinema, or head next door Pod Minogą (p 58) for more beatnik boozing. Abstract View meteor craters (p 45) in Morasko, or visit the Archaeological Museum (p 66) to view the Egyptian mummy of some woman called Hat. The region is known for its UFOs, so why not go all XFiles and track down some martians. Alternatively, hang around the ruins of the Royal Castle (p 56) and go ghost hunting. Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 16 ARRIVING Arriving by bus PKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly to the South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchange bureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00 and 18:00 - it’s just outside the main building. You’ll find a PKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point is located next to the ticket booths and they provide information and maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main building with lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the size you opt for. If you don’t trust the electronic lockers then leave your bags with the porter close to the toilet. Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can be bought from the newsagents. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile. A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip to the centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then give a reliable operator like MPT a call (061 9191). Trams 2 and 6 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A ten minute ticket costing 1.30zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding. Tickets are available from all newsagents. E-3, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks. poznan.pl.QTicket office Open 06:00 - 19:30. with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by getting a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance with two buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads to Rondo Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. It leaves every half an hour from 05:00, the last one departing at 22:55. Alternatively catch the Express Line L (Airport - Central Station). Journey time takes 20 minutes though there’s only one bus per hour (from 05:15 to 22:15). At other times the airport is connected to the central train station by a night bus (line 242), with one an hour from 23:50 till 03:50. Journey time should take 30 minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30 minute journey can be bought for 2.60zł from any newsagent. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding. BASICS The facts Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km). Longest River The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at 1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the Odra at Szczecin. Highest Point The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and the city lies 219m above sea level. Population (2007) Poland 38,126,000 Warsaw 1,702,139 Kraków 756,267 Łódź 755,251 Wrocław 634,630 Poznań 564,951 Gdańsk 456,658 Katowice 314,500 Sopot 40,666 Local time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October. Twin Towns Assen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire, Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen, Toledo. 17 Market values Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of 23rd January 2008 based on €1 = 3.60zł Product Price (zł) Price (€) MacDonald’s Big Mac 6,90 zł € 1,92 Snickers 1,40 zł € 0,39 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 25,00 zł € 6,94 0.5ltr beer (shop) 3,00 zł € 0,83 0.5ltr beer (bar) 6,00 zł € 1,67 Loaf of white bread 1,50 zł € 0,42 € 2,21 20 Marlboros 7,95 zł Local transport ticket (1 trip) 2,50 zł € 0,69 you may find yourself having daylights beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted. Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www. airport-poznan.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Arriving by train Poznań’s Central Railway Station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is to the west of the old town, right next to the trade fair. There is a 24hr currency exchange (kantor) in the main hall as well as a ATMs (bankomats) operated by PKO and WBK bank. Tourist Info, also in the hall, can sell phone cards, SIM cards, In Your Pocket, tram tickets, maps and more. Left luggage lockers can be found at the end of the main hall with small and large lockers priced at 4/8zł respectively per day. If you want someone to look after your bag then look for the sign directing you to Przechowalnia bagażu - there’s one downstairs from platform 4. The price you pay is dependent on numerous factors, including what you claim your luggage to be worth. Frustrating? You bet. Phone booths are found around the main hall and cards to use them are available from newsagents and the Tourist Info point. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards and pre-paid cards for your mobile at the same places. Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there’s always a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runs to the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. The service runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a ten minute ticket for the journey. They’ll set you back 1.30zł and can be purchased from newsagents. Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy) Arriving by car The A2 leads into Poznań from east and west directions, and the A5 and the A11from south to north. Follow the signs for Poznań centrum to get into the heart of the city. If for some absolutely weird reason you find yourself driving through Poland with no Polish money than you can get your foreign bills exchanged at any kantors you see. The one in the train station is open around the clock, as is the one in the Hotel Rzymski (Al. Marcinkowskiego 22). ATMs (bankomats) are found scattered gernerously around, with a number found in the main square (Rynek). The most central Tourist Info point can be found in the main square (C-2, Stary Rynek 59-60), and they offer maps, guides and In Your Pocket. If you need to leave your luggage under lock and key somewhere then your best bet is your hotel. Alternatively, check luggage details as described in the bus and train stations. SIM cards and Pre-Pay cards can be purchased from all newsagents. Climate Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends to hit around February although the last couple of winters have been fairly mild. Below is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall. Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’ and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the National Library to take it out of Poland. Arriving by plane Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km west of central Poznan. On arrival there are two 24hr exchange bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there are two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase bus tickets, SIM cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone. Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the entrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputable operator like MPT (tel. 061 9191) or Radio Lux Taxi for something more flashy (tel. 061 9662). On the whole you’ll pay around 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboy drivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly marked City Card The Poznan local government offer a city card for visitors which allows you to visit the city’s attractions while enjoying either free admission or discounted prices. Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transport system as part of the price, you will be given a guide along with the card explaining how to use it and informing you of which places offer free admission (most museums) and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres, cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The card can also be used in selected places outside of the city such as Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefit of using the card there for an extra day in addition to the number of days that the card is valid in the city. Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for 3-days and can be purchased from: City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44, Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, and the Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well as at selected hotels. Booze While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a tatanka - a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering for something a little more fiery should look no further than ordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf. But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Poznań’s premier drunk tank will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if you’re luck is really low Climate 80 20 70 Rainfall Temperature 16,3 18,1 17,8 15 60 13,5 13,3 Rainfall (mm) 50 8,6 10 7,9 40 30 3,4 3,4 5 20 -0,2 -1,0 0,5 0 10 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec -5 Institute of Meteorology and Water Management, www.imgw.pl Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 Temperature (°C) 18 BASICS Language smarts Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy command of the English language. Many will also be adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers. On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish. Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ Basic pronunciation of consonants ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ and ‘dż’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but one syllable. Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get you started. Civilities cześć dzień dobry dobry wieczór dobranoc tak nie proszę na zdrowie dziękuje przepraszam kocham cię Mam ma imię Jestem z Anglii (cheshch) (jen do-bri) hi/bye good morning/ afternoon (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening (dobrah-nots) good night (tahk) yes (nyeh) no (prosheh) please (nah zdrovyeh) cheers (jen-koo-yeh) thank you (psheh-prasham) sorry (koham tshe) I love you (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is (yehstem zanglee) I am from England Where are the toilets? Do you (male/female) speak English? I don’t speak Polish Please write it down Can I smoke here? One beer please BASICS Electricity Electricity in Poland is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug f convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave. 19 National holidays January 1 New Year’s Day March 23, 2008 Easter Sunday March 24, 2008 Easter Monday May 1 Labour Day May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) May 11, 2008 Pentecost Sunday May 22, 2008 Corpus Christi August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also Polish Army Day November 1 All Saints’ Day November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) December 25 First Day of Christmas December 26 Second Day of Christmas Toilets Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’ve already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations and most public conveniences. Visas Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen changes galore to visa requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Poland without a visa and stay for a period of three months (British citizens can stay for six months). Visas are obligatory for citizens of any country which does not have an agreement with Poland - you’ll find a relevant list available at www.msz.gov.pl. Visas are not available at airports or land or sea borders and therefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside of Poland. Although there is no set price standard cost is 35Euro and waiting time is usually 14 days. Again, visas issued apply for 30 or 90 days. Since October 21 Poland has been a member of the Schengen agreement leading to the elimination of border posts and between member countries. Currently this applies to land crossings, with airports due to fall into line on March 31, 2008. Those wishing to apply for residency are required to visit the local Urzad Wojewódzki office no later that 45 days before your visa expires. A short term residency issue can then be issued. Those looking to work in Poland must apply for permission from the Voivodeship Work Office. The process allegedly takes 14 days though can take longer depending on the office. Flowers As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes with a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay on the right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed to the following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting somebody with flowers be sure to remove the paper before you arrive. Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers with your left hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand of the recipient. Attention should also be paid to colour. If you’re proposing, then it’s red for your fiancée and pink for her mother. Pink flowers are also considered the most neutral, so when in f doubt use those. Yellow is the colour of envy, chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations remain unpopular, especially among women, due to their communist connotations. Good luck. Religion For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass. Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor, though for the best deal you are best off simply drawing out money f using your ATM card. Safety In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the international routes connecting Warsaw and Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. Water N ot a probl em in n e w b uil din gs, b u t clapp e d ou t plumbing in the older places mean that you shouldn’t be surprised if orange gunk comes pouring ou t of the tap. In general Poznań water is safe to drink though i t tas tes nas t y an d o c casi onall y l o oks wors e. N o problems are associated wi th using i t to brush your teeth, though bottled water is extremel y inexpensi ve and easy to find. Necessities Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee po angielsku? pan/panee po angyelskoo?) Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po polsku polskoo) Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh napeesatch) Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too paleech?) Jedno piwo (yedno peevo pohpoproszę prosheh) Numbers 1 2 3 10 General Airport Train station Bus station Right/left One ticket to First/second class jeden dwa trzy dziesięć lotnisko dworzec pkp dworzec pks prawo/lewo jeden bilet do pierwsza/druga klasa Queuing Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the mistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go first’ is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up f their place in a line. Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading to confusion who is and who isn’t queuing in the first place. Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a ticket system to help organize queues. Quick currency convertor PLN 1 zł 2 zł 3 zł 4 zł 5 zł 6 zł 7 zł 8 zł 9 zł 10 zł 20 zł 50 zł 100 zł 150 zł 200 zł 250 zł 1 000 zł US$ 2.47zl = $1 $0,40 $0,81 $1,21 $1,62 $2,02 $2,43 $2,83 $3,24 $3,64 $4,05 $8,10 $20,24 $40,49 $60,73 $80,97 $101,21 $404,86 Euro 3.60zl = 1 euro € 0,28 € 0,56 € 0,83 € 1,11 € 1,39 € 1,67 € 1,94 € 2,22 € 2,50 € 2,78 € 5,56 € 13,89 € 27,78 € 41,67 € 55,56 € 69,44 € 277,78 Pound 4.83 = 1 £0,21 £0,41 £0,62 £0,83 £1,04 £1,24 £1,45 £1,66 £1,86 £2,07 £4,14 £10,35 £20,70 £31,06 £41,41 £51,76 £207,04 Smoking Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue. yehden dva tshi jayshench www.inyourpocket.com Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 20 HISTORY The Wielkopolska Uprising Since the Third Partition of 1795 Poland had effectively ceased to be a country, wiped off the map and carved between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria. Poznań enjoyed brief freedom in 1806, when Napoleon’s conquering troops marched eastwards, liberating much of Poland and placing the city under the independent jurisdiction of the Duchy of Warsaw. But Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia was to prove just years way, resulting in the 1815 Congress of Vienna which saw Poznań once more delivered back into Prussian hands. There it was to remain for over a century later. With Europe reeling after years of war, Germany in collapse and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The people of Poznań, overwhelmingly Polish, could sense independence was round the corner, but there remained one crucial sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and while Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish government Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918, the native Poznonian’s had been plotting an uprising. Positions in local government and industry were forcibly seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on December 27. Historical accounts of how the Uprising started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of Francizek Ratajaczak on the steps of the police headquarters that started the initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish crowd assembled below a German counter-demonstration passed by – within moments shots had been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured the train station and post office, while elsewhere in the region other towns rose up in rebellion. Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak the Polish forces followed up with numerous swift successes against a German army shattered from four years of world war. Neighbouring towns like Kórnik, and Mogilno were liberated though several counter attacks suggested a stiffening in German resolve. Fighting continued into the New Year and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the region from a descent into anarchy the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues, conscripting all men born between 1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what is today (B-2) pl. Wolnośći, the Polish troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles with their German counterparts. Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw the beginning of international peace talks, and within two days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated. Some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey from Dark Ages settlement to 21st-century city commercial awakening. 10th century In 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992 Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań Cathedral. 12th century Poznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, members of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church and found the earliest hospital in Poznań. 13th century In 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows Magdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular street sytem is laid out around a central marketplace and a castle is added to the fortifications. 14th century Poznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and is soon a major centre of European trade. 16th century A golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a fire devastates the Jewish quarter, the Market Place, the Town Hall and the Castle. 17th century Prosperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedes occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656. 18th century Poznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the Cathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s history wipes out almost a third of the town’s houses. 19th century Napoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806. As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold, the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form their own cultural and economic organisations. 20th century The Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919, Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and the administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule. From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out, much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and about half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23, 1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobilised locals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The Warsaw Pact is created in 1955. 1956 June 28 - 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread, truth and freedom”, and 76 are killed in street fighting with the army. A political thaw begins that year under Władysław Gomułka. 1970 Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army intevene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of government. 1978 Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name John Paul II. 1980 The fledgeling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike. 1981 December 13 - The Prime Minister, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declares martial law. 1983 Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial law is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize. 1985-88 Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration grows. 1989 Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet 21 demands for improved living and working conditions. Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps the elections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, the parliament elects General Jaruzelski president. August - The first post-communist prime minister, Tadeusz Mazowiecki, forms a coalition government. 1990 January 1 - Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned in an attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflation leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. December 9 - Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president of post-communist Poland. 1995 November 19 - Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski defeats Lech Wałęsa in presidential elections. 2001 September 23 - Populist parties enjoy unprecedented success in parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a major force in 1989, disappears from the political scene. 2004 Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune. 2005 April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a million Poles. HISTORY 1956 Uprising June 2006 marked the 50th anniversary of The Poznań Riots, the first recognized strike and street demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally suppressed this show of people’s strength remains an intense source of pride for the local community, and though it would be another 33 years until the people of Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin the uprising led to a significant liberalization of Soviet policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980 Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the Solidarity movement. The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain degree of optimism among Poles and promised an end to the social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. But these hopes were to prove shortlived and Nikita Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28 strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories – originally in the Stalin brick factory (now the Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory), before spreading to the city’s other major industrial plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building), chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with Bolshevism’, while demanding lower prices, higher wages and a reduction in work quotas. Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the strikers up in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by the authorities. Infuriated by this break in protocol the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing armaments. Armed with 188 assorted small arms and petrol bombs the insurgents marched back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control the communist authorities reacted in their traditional manner – by over-reacting. Under the command of Stanisław Popławski 10,300 soldiers were deployed to Poznań, as well as 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside world order was eventually restored on June 30. The clashes left 76 civilians (unofficial estimates claim the number to be vastly higher) and eight soldiers dead, and over 600 strikers injured. Victims included Roman Strzałkowski, a thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark off an equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest. Although Poland was to suffer another three decades of Communist control the riots played a huge influence in the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinst hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to appease the people. Władysław Gomułka was appointed First Secretary and limited social reforms and a smallscale lifting of press censorship followed. A new museum commemorating the events of 1956 has been opened in the Zamek on ul. Sw. Marcin (see What to see). It is definitely worth taking a while to visit to really understand the momentous events of the Poznan June. 21 Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 22 CULTURE & EVENTS Art Galleries tel. 061 853 02 91, www.abclub.pl. Modern art exhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal. art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł. Artistic Ceramics (Ceramika Artystyczna) D-2, ul. Woźna 4, tel. 061 853 02 35. Ceramics, cups and teapots. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Ego Gallery (Galeria Ego) C-2, ul. Wrocławska 19, tel. 061 853 15 81, www.galeriaego.pl. Modern art gallery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. FS Gallery (Galeria FS) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. 061 853 79 86, www.galeriafs.com.pl. Paintings, sculptures, artistic glass, graphics and jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. Garbary 48 Gallery (Galeria Garbary 48) D-3, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com. pl. Contemporary Polish paintings, sculptures and graphics. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Grandefino Gallery (Galeria Grandefino) D-1, ul. Szewska 9, tel. 0 600 04 40 65. Antique furniture, vases and toys. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Renes Gallery (Galeria Renes) D-2, ul. Wodna 8/9 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 855 75 42, www.renes.com.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Polish artists. Also in ul. Półwiejska 42 QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Techne Gallery (Galeria Techne) B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 851 85 43, www.galeria-techne.art.pl. Polish glass, ceramic and clay design objects and jewellery. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. Ventzi Gallery (Galeria Ventzi) D-3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 3/8, tel. 0 501 63 20 92, www.ventzi.art. pl. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. CULTURE & EVENTS What’s On March 2008 01/03 - 06/04/2008 Pictures painted not by the human hand - Icons by Jerzy Nowosielski and Archetypes - Exhibition (Obraz nie ręką ludzką malowany. Ikony Jerzego Nowosielskiego i archetypy.) A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, 23 ABC Gallery (Galeria ABC) D-3, ul. Garbary 38/6, Arsenal City Gallery (Galeria Miejska Arsenał) ul. Kozia 4, tel. 061 852 42 41, www.ptt-poznan.pl. This dance corps lacks its own stage but performs at the Teatr Wielki. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tickets 20 - 30zł. Poznań Estrada (Estrada Poznańska) C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33, www.estrada. poznan.pl. An organisation which promotes some of the most interesting cultural and artistic events from the Polish and International stage. Today it hosts ‘Stage on the Floor’ where once the famous Teatr Osmego Dnia (the 8th Day Theatre) used to perform. This was once of the most successful student originated theatre groups of its time in the 60’s and 70’s and Estrada Poznanska are aiming to recreate the halcyon days. Amongst the 70 or so concerts, plays and cabaret performances which they promote each year are ‘Made in Jazz’, School Confrontations with Art and Events worth meeting (Imprezy warte Poznania). Check out their English language website for more details and for dates of upcoming concerts. C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 81, tel. 061 852 47 08, www. filharmoniapoznanska.pl. Founded in 1947, the concerts of the Poznań Philharmonic are held in the historic aula of the Adam Mickiewicz University. Don’t miss a performance of the Poznań Nightingales, the boys and men’s choir. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets 15 - 40zł. Polish Dance Theatre (Polski Teatr Tańca) C-2, Castle Cultural Centre A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, www. zamek.poznan.pl. Built originally as a royal residence (see Maciej Kaczyński what to see) at the tur n of t h e 20 t h century by Franz Schwechten to a design ordered by Kaiser Wilhelm II, today this is one of Poland’s biggest cultural institutions. Hosting over 700 events annually in its palatial halls, rooms and courtyard, the building acts as a theatre, gallery, cinema and concert venue. The centre is well-known throught Poland and abroad and often cooperates with other cultural institutions to host exhibitions, film screenings, plays, conferences and educational workshops.QTicket office open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission depending on repertoire. Castle Cultural Centre (Centum Kultury Zamek) tel. 061 646 52 76, www.zamek.poznan.pl. This exhibition, consisting of 90 pieces, presents Icons in a modern style while also demonstrating their common thematical and theological themes by comparing them to Icons from the Byzantium period to the present day including the particular development of 12 chosen Icon types. 33 works by Polish artist Jerzy Nowosielski will be on display with works from museums in Lviv and Kiev in the Ukraine and from the Polish Museum of Icons in Suprasl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 10-8zł. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:00-19:00). Poznań Philharmonic (Filharmonia Poznańska) tel. 061 856 89 00, www.amuz.edu.pl. Dating back to 1920 and named after the first Prime Minister of the 2nd Polish Republic which was formed after the collapse of the occupying powers in WWII, the academy honours one of Poland’s greatest statesman. However Paderewski was not just a statesman but also an accomplished concert pianist and it is this side of his character that is honoured here. With over 700 students, the music academy provides education and training in 7 different faculties including conducting, composition and instruments. It is also the only place in Poland where the art of violin making is taught. The Ignacy Jan Paderewski Academy of Music in Poznan (Akademia Muzyczna im. Ignacego Jana Paderewskiego w Poznaniu) F-3, ul. Św. Marcin 87, Nowosielski 1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www. myspace.com/tomaszstanko. The highly regarded Polish Jazz quartet appear at the Great Theatre. Having received wide acclaim for their 2002 album Soul of Things, Jazzwise named that album as one of the 100 most important jazz albums in history. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 45-50zł. Available at Great Theatre box office (open 13:00-18:00). 03/03/2008 Tomasz Stańko Quartet - Concert A- Theatres Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 69 64, www.teatr-animacjipoznan.com.pl. Children’s theatre. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Tickets12 - 14zł. Eighth Day Theatre (Teatr Ósmego Dnia) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 855 20 86, www.osmego.art. pl. Alternative theatre. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tickets 12-20zł. New Theatre (Teatr Nowy) E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel. 061 847 24 40, www.teatrnowy.pl. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 19:00; Closed Mon. Tickets 20-45zł. Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 8/10, tel. 061 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 19:00; Sun, Sat 16:00 - 19:00; Closed Mon. Tickets 20-35zł. Cinemas 871 56 00, www.cinema-city.pl. A modern multiplex that boasts 560 screenings a week. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 11-22zł. Cinema Apollo B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18, tel. 061 851 76 34, www.apollo.poznan.pl. QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Tickets 13-15zł. Cinema Rialto E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 061 847 53 99, www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 8 - 15zł. Multikino 51 G-4, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. 061 624 09 10, www.multikino.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 14 - 23zł. Animation Theatre (Teatr Animacji) A-2, ul. Św. C-2, Stary Rynek, tel. 061 646 52 60, w w w.zamek. poznan.pl. DevelMaciej Kaczyński oped as a means of attracting traders from distant lands to Poznan in the days when Poznan was an important trading post in the centre of Europe, the fairs became an important cultural event attracting not just traders but artists and performing groups from all over Europe to the city. The fair today stretches over 9 days and includes concerts, theatre performances, film screenings and a large of antique dealers and collectors. During this year’s fair you will also find an open-air gallery on ul. Zamkowa with the work of both amateur, student and professional artists. 07 - 15/06/2008 XXXIII St. John’s Fair (XXXIII Jarmark Świętojański) Cinema-City Kinepolis ul. Krzywoustego 72, tel. 061 Dance & Music Musical Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny) G-4, ul. Niezłomnych 1e, tel. 061 852 17 86, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. Q Box Office Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 15:00 - 18:00, Sun two hours before performance. Tickets 12-35zł. Poznań In Your Pocket Tickets Miejskiej) B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. The city information office sells tickets for most concerts also on-line, and can inform you of the theatre programme. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji Hall of Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, www. myspace.com/NouvelleVague. Nouvelle Vague (New Wave) is a French group based around the production skills of Marc Collin and Oliver Libaux with vocals provided by Marina C el este, M elani e Lain an d Phoebe Killdeer. Well-known for their interpretations of 80’s classics such as ‘I just can’t get enough’ by Depeche Mode and ‘Don’t Go’ by Yazoo. Anyone who enjoys the new wave, easy listening or bossa nova sounds of the 80’s should check them out for their one night in Poznan. Q Doors open 19:00. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 75-90zł. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:00-19:00). Also at www.shortcut.pl. 14/03/2008 Nouvelle Vague - concert A-2, Great 13 - 15/06/2008 Etno Port Poznan Festival H-3, Stary Rynek, (near the river), tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Forming part of the St John’s Fair, this festival will present a series of ‘World Music’ concerts inspired by cultural traditions from around the world where artists will be encouraged to come to Poznan to meet and exchange their musical traditions by performing music in many ethnic styles and with many different kinds of instruments, many of which are very rare. Poznan is trying to develop this festival into Poland’s biggest event of its kind and there will also be a number of workshops during the festival for people to learn more about world music and its various origins. Castle Cultural Centre Patron March - June 2008 24 CULTURE & EVENTS 19/03/2008 Spring Festival - Sacre Claus Obermeier - Multimedia Show (Festiwal Wiosny - Sacre Claus Obermeier - spektakl multimedialny) A-2, Castle Cultural that there is more to Polish military history than the crushing defeat at the hands of Hitler’s ‘blitzkreig’. On the Saturday (19th) there will a horse riding display and competition at 10:00 at the Hipodrom in Wola. There will be a ceremony at the Uhlans Monument (C-2) at 20:00 followed by a mass. The main event is the festival at Citadel Park (H-1) on the Sunday at 11:00 where there will be battle reconstruction and attractions for the kids. Q Admission free. CULTURE & EVENTS May 2008 Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1, tel. 061 852 47 08. A humourous, bu t thoroughl y professional, take on the work of many famous composers performed by Circus Bassissimus, a quartet of Viennese orchestra contrabass players - Christian Berg, Bartosz Sikorski, Helmut Stockhammer and Georg Straka. Q Concert Starts at 19:00. Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic (C-2) box office (open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance). 25 16/05/2008 Virtuoso for fun - Philharmonic concert (Wirtuozi na Wesoło.) A-1, University Great Theatre Great Theatre (Teatr Wielki) A-1, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl. The name is a bit of a misnomer as the Great Theatre today is home to Opera and Ballet. Built in 1910 K. Citak by Max Littman as a city theatre house for the German population of what was then Prussian Posen, the last German peformance was held in 1919 before the Wielkopolska Uprising. Plays continued to be performed until 1924 when it became a full-time home to Polish Opera. Under the Nazis the building received a renovation led by the German architect Paul Bankarten but was soon caught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it served as a hospital for wounded German soldiers between 1943 and 1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of Poznan in the German retreat to Berlin, the ‘theatre’ was able to begin performances of Opera and Ballet again in 1945, something which has continued to this day. Today the Great Theatre is a symbol of the history of Polish opera and offers a diverse repretoire of classical and contemporary opera with particular emphasis on the development of Polish opera. In the permanent repretoire are 40 operas and 15 ballets with new projects continually being added to develop the ‘theatre’ as an international venue for Polish and world opera. International audiences are particularly attracted to the Polish-German Hoffmann festival, the Poznan Days of Verdi festival where all the works by the composer are presented and the Poznan Spring of Ballet festival. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, www. zamek.poznan.pl. A unique performance including huge screens, film, dance and the music of Igor Stravinski. This multi-media extravaganza will be preformed by Claus Obermeier a media-artist, director and composer with the support of an orchestra and dancers as well as giant video projections. Q Festival starts at 19:00. Tickets 35-80 zł. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:00-19:00). Wieniawskiego 1, tel. 061 852 47 08. Michael Sanderling with Giorgi Kharadze on cello and accompanied by the Poznan Philharmonic Orchestra will perform a concert of the music of Georges Bizet, Camile Saint-Saens and Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky.QConcert starts at 18:00. Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic (C-2) box office (open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance). 29/03/2008 Caprice and Varation - Philharmonic Concert (Kaprys i Wariacje) A-1, University Hall, ul. April 2008 09/04 - 11/05/2008 Léonard Missone - The King of Landscape - To the Days of Walonia Exhibition (Leonard Missone - Król Pejzażu - Wystawa w ramach dni Walonii.) A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, w w w. myspace.com/josegonzalez. A wizard of nostalgic and clima ti c s oun d s b a s e d around pure, crystal voice and deep melodies. Gonzalez promotes his second album with this concert in Poznan. Winner of a Swedish Grammy in 2004 for the ‘Best New Face’, Gonzalez is best known for the song Heartbeats which came from his first album and was used by Sony in their commercial featuring the thousands of colourful balls. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 70-90zł. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:0019:00). 23/04/2008 Jose Gonzalez - Concert A-2, Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, www.zamek. poznan.pl. Leonard Missone (1870 - 1943) was known as the ‘King of Landscapes’ thanks to his talent for making photographs look like paintings. He was the inspiration for many Polish photographers from the inter-war years including Jan Bulhak, Edmund Osterloff and Tadeusz Wanski. This is the first time Missone’s work has been displayed in Poland since 1938 and the works come from the Museum of Photography in Charleroi as well the artist’s family’s private collection. Q Tickets available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:00-19:00). H-1, Citadel, Park Cytadela, tel. 061 852 88 33, www. poznan.pl/ulan. Polish mounted cavalary has a honourable and famous history and was responsible for many famous victories over the centuries. The Uhlans were a particular regiment known for being lightly equipped and incredibly quick to attack and this event is a fantastic opportunity to learn 18 - 20/04/2008 XXIII Days of Uhlan - Feast of the 15th Poznań Uhlans Regiment. (XXIII Dni Ułana - Święto 15 Pułku Ułanów Poznańskich) trada Poznańska (Stage on the floor), ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33, www. nicolemitchell.com. Nicole Mitchell leads a band accompanied by flute and cord instruments which will play her jazz compositions and arrangements of classical, African, swing and new wave sound. QConcert starts at 20:00 Tickets 40zł. Available at Estra da Poznańska b ox office(open 16:00-19:00, Tue 10:00-13:00). 24/04/2008 Nicole Mitchell’s Black Earth strings- Concert C-1, Es- Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 60, w w w.staceykent.com. Well-known for her wonderful jazz vocals, Stacey Kent can count Clint Eastwood amongst her legion of fans as she was invited to sing at his 70th birthday party. She arrives in Poznan to promote her number 1 Jazz album ‘Breakfast on the morning tram’ and comes highly recommended as a recent addition to the Blue Note roster of recording artists. Q Concer t star ts at 21:00 Tickets 120-150zł. Available at Castle Cultural Centre box office (open 11:0019:00). Also at www.ticketpro.pl. 17/05/2008 Stacey Kent- Concert A-2, Castle 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, www.zamek.poznan.pl. An exhibition showcasing the work of British documentary photographer John Davies. On show will be a number of works presenting Davies’ study of the development of the north English industrial towns and cities and the relationship between the development of history and society set against the backdrop of the heavy 19th century industrial revolution in Britain. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Tickets available at Castle Cultural Centre Box office (open 11:00-19:00). A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, w w w.zamek.poznan.pl. Th e exhibition is the result of a contest for press and agency photographers organised by the World Press Foundation in Amsterdam. Photos will be entries which are hoping to be awarded prizes in one of the ten different categories. Q Tickets available at Castle Cultural Centre Box office (open 11:00-19:00). 19/05 - 15/06/2008 John Davies - The British Landscape A-2, Castle Cultural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 5-27/04/2008 VIII Hoffmann Festival (VIII Festival Hoffmannowski) A-1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 2 - 25/05/2008 World Press Photo - Exhibition. 1, tel. 061 852 47 08. Lukasz Borowicz conducts the Poznan Philharmonic Orchestra with Vera Okhotnikova on piano and Sergei Nakariakov on trumpet and fugelhorn. Together they will perform the works of Ignaz Pleye, Joesph Haydn, Dymitr Kabelewski, Dymitr Szostakowicz and Tchaikovsky’s 4th symphony. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic (C-2) box office (open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance). 26/04/2008 Stars of the World Stage - Philharmonic concert A-1, University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www.festiwalHoffmannowski. pl. In this 8th edition of the Hoffmann Polish-German Opera Festival, Poznan will once again celebrate the music and influence on Poznan’s culture by the composer who lived here between 1800-1802. Opening the festival this year on the 5th of April will be Hoffmann’s Aurora. Also included in this year’s festival will be ‘A Midsummer night’s dream’ by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, The Magic Flute and The Marriage of Figaro by Mozart plus much more. Q Tickets available at Great Theatre box office (open 13:00-18:00). 28/04/2008 Lura - Concert A-1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www.luracriola.com. Hailing from Cape Verde in the west of Africa, Lura comes to Poznan to perform songs from her 5 albums to date which showcase the Morna, Coladera and Bataku music styles she uses. Q Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 70-145zł. Available at Teatr Wielki box office (open 13:00-18:00). Also at www.ticketpro.pl. Poland Happenings Poland is an increasingly important centre of culture, and artisans, performers and musicians from all over the world now regularly arrive here to showcase their various talents. From art house sculptors to top-name bands, In Your Pocket is dedicated to bringing news of these events to as wide an audience as possible. Besides the listings on these pages, we also regularly update our website with all the news and events as they reach us, sometimes after our print guide has gone to press. For the latest event information make www. inyourpocket.com the first place you visit. www.inyourpocket.com Poznań In Your Pocket A-1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan. pl/. One of the year’s most J.Multarzyński important ballet events, this is an annual review of the finest ballet repretoires and features two of Poznan’s dance troupes as well as guest performances from foreign artists. There will be a number of performances this year including ‘Alexis Zorbas’ by Mikis Theodorakis and ‘Mr Twardowski’. Other important dates to look out for are the 17-18/05/2008 when Sergri Prokofiev’s Romeo and Julliete will be performed and the 25/05/2008 when Poznan will host an International Ballet Gala showcasing the talents of Polish ballet dancers from stages all over the world. Q Tickets available at Great Theatre box office (open 13:00-18:00). 17/05-01/06/2008 - Poznan Spring of Ballet (Poznańska Wiosna Baletowa) March - June 2008 26 PRESS & MAIL The Sunday Times: In Our Pocket Praise is praise from any quarter, but from the peerless Sunday Times, the broadsheet bible whose travel section is one of the wonders of the Englishspeaking world, it counts for just that little bit extra. Imagine our delight then when we were placed seventh by the said newspaper in a rundown of the web‘s best 100 travel websites. We were described as “a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks, including more obscure destinations like Tirana in Albania and Minsk in Belarus.” Moreover, not a month later, and our biggest fans were at it again, the Sunday Times this time praising us simply as “the best guides to Eastern Europe. Updated regularly. Although available locally for a couple of pounds, many can be downloaded free from www.inyourpocket.com.” Find you guides honest and clear with a wry sense of humor - Andrzej Czakow - Gdansk (Retired Brit) Love the guide. What is it about this city and food? There are more decent bars than even Oliver Reed could handle on a two-day pub crawl (well, probably anyway) but the eating options are ropey at best and rapidly descend into downright dangerous. The culinary highlight of my trip to Poznan was finding a restaurant which claimed to offer Italian and Chinese food but in reality had no pasta available and only three Chinese dishes: the exact same three flavours as the three Uncle Ben’s cook-in Chinese sauces sold in Poland. After a couple of days I just followed the example of most locals: live on beer and cigarettes, then take pot luck with the nearest late-night dining establishment, anything hot tastes good after enough Lech. Admittedly this does lead to a certain amount of pebble dashing and/or Bomb Bay mix the next day but so does eating at almost any place in Poznan. Anyway, some imodium will fix the problem quick-smart. Anna J Kupy First off I want to say thanks for your guides. Since picking up a copy in my first trip to the Marriott some years back I have always made it a priority to get the latest copy when I arrive in town. I have to admit I usually pick up my copy in the hotel where I’m staying (sorry!!) and in fact look on the hotel less favourably if they don’t have a copy available. I just wanted to drop you a line to give some feedback based on my most recent trips to the city as there are a couple of points you should be aware of. I would recommend anyone staying at the Hilton to ask for a room on the city-facing side on one of the higher floors. The city looks fantastic at night (if there is no mist) and is a great bonus to what is probably my favourite hotel when I am over working. For other hotel options I can thoroughly recommend the service and rooms at the Rialto. A good option if you want something with character and comfort. Although you should be aware that Kurt Scheller has now left them. I’d also like to point out that your Sense reviews are right on the money although one of the bar stewards was not as polite as I am used to recently. And a tip as well. If you are traveling around town during the day it can save you a lot of time and money if you avoid taxis and use the tram network. A Polish colleague of mine introduced me to the 7.20zl, 24-hour ticket and I not only saved a small fortune in taxi fares but I also saved myself the stress of sitting in Warsaw’s ever-worsening traffic jams. And finally. I assume someone there is a Bristol City fan? Any chance of some info on the great Jackie Dziekanowski? Is he back in Poland these days? Robert Negri, Hammersmith, London. In most hotels prices shoot up during fairs and they can hardly be called fair rates. Rooms rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs. In most hotels the prices vary depending on the importance of the fair. Weekenders will be glad to know that most hotels offer substantial weekend discounts. Prices listed include breakfast and VAT unless otherwise noted. Please note that many hotels count rooms as both singles and doubles and price accordingly. WHERE TO STAY 27 Upmarket Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73, 74, tel. 061 858 68 68, fax 061 858 68 69, recepcja@brovaria.pl, www.brovaria. pl. The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only microbreweries, and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quick look around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge the gap between contemporary styles and the classic touches their old town location deserves. Cream coloured rooms include cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements, and some have views overlooking the rynek. Memorable. Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 410zł, 17 doubles 290 - 470zł, 1 apartment 430 - 580zł). PTJARGKW hhh 061 859 05 90, fax 061 859 05 91, prestige@dominahotels.pl, www.dominahotels.com. Domina offers luxury serviced apartments, packed with designer trappings and gadgets usually seen on the pages of Wallpaper magazine. This top-class accommodation comes with sound system, bathrobes and fully fitted lounge and kitchen areas. One of the best options in Poland, let alone Poznań. Q40 rooms (40 apartments 320 - 800zł). PTARULGW hhhh Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. Hi Guys, thanks to your guide our Lodz trip was fantastic. We ticked off all the things to do, bars and eateries etc and the write-ups where spot on for most things and the tips were great and very useful. Maybe think about adding a section on sports ie local teams, history, ground tours and availability of match tickets etc. Also, in your pubs section can you mention what bars if any offer English football on TV (I found none in Lodz and bumped into a few Brits who where looking for the same). Anyway keep up the good work, I always pick up a few issues on my travels and pass them on to other people I know who are visiting the same places. Keep up the honest assessments because that’s what separates you from the other boring guides. One last thing... could not spot the “show me tits” graffiti in the Iron Horse bar, has P.C got to Poland ? Regards Big Jay Moore, Liverpool HP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. 061 874 11 00, fax 061 874 12 00, hppoznan@beph.pl, www.hotelepark. pl. Tidy rooms a stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms come with uniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV and minibar, while the business centre attracts a regular stream of corporate travellers. Q98 rooms (98 singles 297 - 399zł, 98 doubles 350 - 469zł). PTHAULGKW hhh IBB Andersia G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, fax 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@andersiahotel.pl, www.andersia.pl. The location is unbeatable, with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and the old town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoor pool, air-conditioning throughout, and top-band conference facilities on the 20th floor. Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroom floors this is a choice pampering experience, with window side sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentary morning paper. Long term guests have the choice of three luxury apartments located on the upper floors.Q171 rooms (105 singles 365 - 460zł, 42 doubles 430 - 525zł, 24 apartments 760 - 915zł). PHARUFLGKDC hhhh Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 28 WHERE TO STAY Lake Malta & Festival In the words of esteemed local journalist and history buff, Brian Dixon, ‘while both the Nazis and Stalin did their damnedest to outdo each in terms of winning favour with the denizens of Hell, they also excavated a series of lakes around the city to prevent the River Warta from flooding.’ Of the lot it’s Lake Malta that is best known, and its surroundings are well worth further investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of the damning of the Cybina river the 2.2 kilometre long lake is the largest man-made lake in the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Built on the sweat of forced labour the lake is today one of the principal recreation areas in the region with an ice-rink, all-year ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), zoo and rowing a few of the opportunities on offer. The name of the lake derives from the Knights of Malta, and it was their order who once owned the land on which the lake now sits. However it is modern history that is most apparent when visiting Malta. Take a look, for instance, at the Mound of Freedom on the south of the lake, just off ul. Baraniaka. Work on this man made hillock started on May 3, 1919, with workers from across Poland volunteering to take part in its construction. It was built to celebrate the success of the Wielkopolska Uprising and took three years to complete. When Poznań was once more incorporated into the Reich the Nazis couldn’t wait to deconstruct this symbol of Polish victory and it was promptly levelled. In 1982 plans were touted to rebuild it from scratch, and construction swung into action four years later. Amazingly, it’s still not finished. When it is finally completed (don’t hold your breath) the 30 metre peak will be 17 metres taller than the original, and also hold an observation point. While the lake – host to many international rowing competitions – is the focal point, the surroundings aren’t short on distractions. Throughout summer – from June onwards – the car park near the ski slope is home to an open air cinema, with films screened for free from 10pm. Cheapskates take note, admission is free. It’s also got Poznań’s only mini-golf course, as well as a summer toboggan run. Hold on for dear life as speeds hit 50km per hour on the 530 metre run. It’s open from spring to autumn from noon to 9pm. You’ll be shelling out 6-8zł for the pleasure, and more details are available from www. maltaski.pl. Finally, there’s the Maltanka narrow gauge railway. Connecting Rondo Sródka with the New Zoo the 3.8km line ferries approximately 200,000 passengers annually on its 600mm tracks. This year the track is expected to open sometime in mid-April with tickets costing from 4-5zł. One of the highlights of the Poznań calendar the 18th annual Malta Festival kicks off on June 23 and is essentially a six day celebration of alternative culture lasting until the grand finale on June 28. Often likened to Scotland’s Edinburgh Festival, aside from fringe theatre visitors can look forward to contemporary dance groups, film screenings, photo exhibitions and abstract art. Events are split between indoor and outdoor venues with tickets for varying shows ranging from 2-50zł. Although it’ll be taking place all over town the festival always culminates on the banks of Lake Malta, usually in a shower of fireworks and music. Last year it was Sinead O’Connor who bought the curtain down, this year details have have not been released, but you can check for news on the program and ticket availability at www. malta-festival.pl closer to the time. WHERE TO STAY Mat’s ul. Bułgarska 115 (Wilda), tel. 061 868 78 31, fax 061 861 41 78, hotel@hotelmats.pl, www.hotelmats. pl. An engaging combination of classic and modern; antique clocks and rococo-style armchairs next to shining glass and tennis courts. This is not your standard three star venture, and as such is well worth the taxi ride from the city centre. Rooms have had a thorough refit in the last few months, cementing the status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s premier choices. Q36 rooms (4 singles 279 - 509zł, 23 doubles 349 - 639zł, 7 suites 379 - 699zł, 2 apartments 409 - 759zł). PHARUGKD hhh Mercure Poznań E-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. 061 855 80 00, fax 061 855 89 55, rez.mer.poznan@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A two-minute walk for the international Trade Fair, so no prizes for guessing that most visitors hail from the business community. Excellent conference facilities and modern rooms equipped with dataports and cable TV. Q228 rooms (167 singles €100 - 281, 187 doubles €117 - 298, 1 apartment €307 - 324). PTHARUFL GKD hhhh 858 70 00, fax 061 833 77 51, rez.nov.poznan@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Smart, newly-renovated rooms found inside one of the tallest hotels in the city. Each room comes with pristine bathroom, dataport, CNN and minibar. Q480 rooms (160 singles €83 - 228, 310 doubles €97 - 242, 10 apartments €183 - 313). Breakfast €12.Also check with the hotel for special daily prices. POTHARUFL GKW hhh tel. 061 654 31 00, fax 061 654 31 95, rez.nov.malta@ orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A cost-effective, squat hotel on the edges of Lake Malta. You know what you’re getting with Novotel, and all codes of Western practice are tightly observed. Staff have been programmed to show patience and good humour, while rooms are bright and modern. Q149 rooms (149 singles €45 - 179, 149 doubles €45 - 179). Breakfast €12. Also check with the hotel for special daily prices. THARUFLGKW hhh fax 061 858 23 06, royal@hotel-royal.com.pl, www. hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character and history inside this courtyard hotel. Having served as army HQ during the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royal is decorated with wood panelling, floral-patterned duvets and plum colour schemes. The Mr Fix-It staff can organize everything from car rentals to sightseeing tours, while guests can also enjoy a 24hr bar. Q31 rooms (9 singles 224 - 380zł, 14 doubles 294 - 460zł, 7 suites 315 - 485zł, 1 apartment 350 - 535zł). HALGW hhh tion including flat screen TVs, walk-in showers, artwork and superb beds worthy of a regent. Q181 rooms (168 singles €105 - 280, 168 doubles €105 - 280, 13 apartments €155 - 900). Breakfast €22. PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh tel. 061 659 00 43, fax 061 663 62 42, rezerwacja@ hotelstaremiasto.pl, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms fully deserving the three stars they have been granted. All come with ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given the old town location are surprisingly large. The studio and apartment are also open for business and are fully airconditioned. Conference facilities: a conference room up to 50 people, air-conditioned with a screen, projector and sound system. Q23 rooms (3 singles 195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 - 530zł, 1 apartment 350 - 690zł). PJHARGW hhh 061 820 57 81, office@hoteltrawinski.com.pl, www. hoteltrawinski.com.pl. Swish rooms with modern trappings, yellowish colour schemes and adjustable air-conditioning. Tucked on a quiet rise overlooking Citadel Park. On-site facilities also include hairdresser, beauty parlour and the full line of conference services. Q58 rooms (15 singles 240 - 365zł, 36 doubles 299 - 490zł, 6 suites 390 - 590zł, 1 apartment 900 - 1200zł). PTHARUFLGKD hhhh 29 Q48 rooms (39 singles 380 - 490zł, 8 doubles 490 - 640zł, 1 apartment 710 - 820zł). PTHARLG KDCW hhhh modern trappings, including datapor ts and mini-bars. Stare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, Mid-range 222 E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. 061 869 91 40, fax 061 868 53 52, hotel222@hotel222.com.pl, www.hotel222.com.pl. Excellent hotel with an absurd position atop of a shopping mall. Bright, modern rooms and a crimson restaurant in which to enjoy breakfast. Trams N°6 & 13 stop righ t on th e doorstep. Q51 rooms (51 singles 180 - 199zł, 51 doubles 220 - 239zł). PHAUGKW hh Trawiński G-1, ul. Żniwna 2, tel. 061 827 58 00, fax Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061 astra@astra.ta.pl, www.astra.ta.pl. With its vertical ‘HOTEL’ sign and roadside location Astra could easily be a motel in Nowhere, USA. Sterile and overpriced, the weary furnishings need an immediate update. Six kilometres from town, so add taxi fares to the price. Q16 rooms (4 singles 140 - 280zł, 6 doubles 190 - 460zł, 4 triples 280 - 620zł, 1 quad 380 - 750zł). HAUGKW hh 66 00, fax 061 845 66 01, poznan@campanile.com.pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The latest in a string of Campanile hotels to open across Poland. The Poznań Campanile is everything we’ve come to expect from the chain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourful flourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come as standard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 169 - 269zł, 76 doubles 169 - 269zł, 4 apartments 229 - 329zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTHAR ULGKW hh Astra ul. Lutycka 31 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 94 72, Campanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. 061 845 Vivaldi G-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. 061 858 81 00, fax Novotel Poznań Malta K-3, ul. Warszawska 64/66, 061 853 29 77, vivaldi@vivaldi.pl, www.vivaldi.pl. A curvy, futuristic exterior shields one of Poznań’s premier hotels. Upscale and comfortable, the highlight has to be the two-level suite, with a downstairs bedroom accessed by a set of spiral stairs. Rooms come armed with all the Royal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. 061 858 23 00, Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations. poznan@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. Just steps away from the Trade Fair the Poznań Sheraton looks certain to establish itself as the number one business hotel in town. Corporate travelers are spoiled with state of the art conference facilities and rooms that come appointed with every modern gadget invented. For post boardroom moments the hotel touts a top floor fitness club with indoor pool (complete with a scarily lifelike croc) as well as numerous drinking and dining options on the ground floor. Those who wish to do their socializing away from prying eyes should check out the private executive level lounge, which comes with video games, magazines, beverages and other welcome trappings. There’s a chic, sharp aesthetic throughout, with accommodaMarch - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 30 WHERE TO STAY Monuments There are aspects of Poznań that are impossible to miss; the spires of her barique churches burst spectacularly into the sky, while her network of old town streets are recognized as among the most captivating in Poland. Lesser known are her many monuments, a number of them concealed in parks or craftily hidden from the tourist’s eye. Wackiest of the lot is the installation north of the old town. Head up to Poznań’s Citadel Park to get utterly freaked out over the sight of 112 two metre tall cast iron figures seemingly making their way zombie-like across the grass. Odd enough you might think, but not half as alarming as when you notice none of them have heads. Titled ‘Nierozpoznani’ (Unrecognized) the batty installation is the work of local arts graduate Magdalena Abakanowicz and was unveiled to coincide with Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations in 2002. We’re unclear what their relevance to Poznań is, or for that matter birthdays, and no-one else seems have the answer either. Explanations have ranged from the intelligent to the downright stupid; some pompous pillocks point out the statues reflect the empty emotions of modern living, other critics claim their purpose is to make individuals confront their inner selves. Abakanowicz herself remains tight lipped over her work, a sure sign she doesn’t have a clue either and just came across the idea over a flagon of cider. Find out more about the artist on www.abakanowicz.art.pl. Next up is the monument that commemorates the thousands of Polish officers massacred in 1940 by the Red Army at Katyń, as well as the thousands of Poles who were packed in cattle wagons and exiled to Siberia during Stalin’s post-war efforts to rid the nation of its intelligentsia and anti-government elements. Known as the Pomnik Ofiar Katynia i Sybiru you can find the 6.5 metre tall bronze boulder on the crossroads between ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości in the castle garden. Designed by Robert Sobociński the monument was unveiled on September 17, 1999 – the 60 th anniversary of the Soviet invasion of Poland. Not far away is the monument to Polish patriot and literary hero Adam Mickiewicz. Find his bronze likeness on Pl. Mickiewicza (F-3). The work of Bazyli Wójtowicz it dates from 1960, and celebrates one of the nation’s finest writers. Together with Krasiński and Słowacki he is considered one of the ‘three bards of Poland’, and a figure of romance, patriotism and hope during the bleak time of 19th century Tsarist oppression. But the dominant monument on this square is that of the 1956 Uprising. Made of steel the two crosses (21 and 19 metres respectively) were unveiled on June 28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the Uprising – more of which you can read about in our History section. Head to Wieniawski Park (A-1) to view a bronze and steel monument dedicated to the Polish Underground State and Home Army. Unveiled on September 26, 2007 (the 68th anniversary of the founding of the Polish underground movement), the memorial is symbolic of the houses that were destroyed during WWII, while the six eagles flying out of it represent Poland’s flight and fight for independence. Next on your monumental safari, don’t miss the Woodrow Wilson monument (E-5), found in the park named after him. The first was unveiled in 1931, but destroyed by the Nazis during the war, and today a replica stands in its place. Why has a Yank been immortalized in this city? Simple. The US president did more than most to ensure Poland’s independence in 1918, and his efforts have not been forgotten. WHERE TO STAY Derby ul. Lutycka 34 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 30 97, hotelderby@poczta.onet.eu, www.hipodromwola.com. pl. Owned by the Polish Equestrian Federation though it’s unlikely you’ll meet any Arab racehorse owners in this glum excuse for a hotel. Rooms are clean, but the furniture belongs in history. Even the plastic flowers are wilting. Surprisingly, the restaurant serves good Lithuanian meals. Q43 rooms (41 singles 120zł, 41 doubles 160zł, 1 suite 240zł, 1 apartment 270zł). HA hh 061 867 45 59, rezerwacja@dorrian.pl, www.dorrian.pl. A favourite with visitors to the trade fair, Dorrian impresses with pleasantly modern rooms, impeccable service and some shocking colours. The pricing policy is over-ambitious. Q18 rooms (1 single 210 - 590zł, 17 doubles 230 - 700zł). PHARUKW hhh 31 Lech A-2, ul. św. Marcin 74, tel. 061 853 01 51, fax 061 853 08 80, recepcja@hotel-lech.poznan.pl, www. hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotless rooms complete with satellite TV, dataports and bathrooms. Planted in the middle of Poznań, so no need for taxis. Q79 rooms (34 singles 142 - 210zł, 44 doubles 234 - 290zł, 1 apartment 264 - 420zł). JARUK hh tel. 061 878 99 35, fax 061 878 99 36, gospoda@ mlynskiekolo.pl, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Outstanding accommodation inside an atmospheric timber lodge. Rooms, named after the seasons, feature hand-carved furniture, fresh flowers and paintings of peasant life. The ‘May’ apartment comes with a circular Roman bath, perfect for savouring the good life. Downstairs the restaurant serves big portions of hunter-ish dishes like duck, boar and ribs. Q14 rooms (12 singles 290zł, 12 doubles 360zł, 2 apartments 500 - 580zł). PHALK a stream of bewildered looking business travellers. Q44 rooms (16 singles 115 - 240zł, 25 doubles 190 - 340zł, 6 triples 240 - 390zł, 5 suites 280 - 440zł). HALK Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37, Dorrian ul. Wyspiańskiego 29, tel. 061 867 45 22, fax Polonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. 061 864 71 00, fax 061 852 37 62, rez.polonez@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Brownish rooms in an enormous block on the northern edges of the centre. While the unimaginative accommodation does little to feed the creative spirit, all rooms have telephone, satellite TV and dataports. There’s a surprisingly good gift shop on the ground floor. Q369 rooms (167 singles 120 - 480zł, 191 doubles 120 - 480zł, 11 apartments 190 - 480zł). Breakfast 35zł. OTHARULGKDW hhh Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. 061 852 81 21, fax 061 852 89 83, hotel@rzymski.pl, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for a room facing away from the street if you don’t wish to be woken by the dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. Rooms are pleasantly decorated in brownish colours, and while spotless the bathrooms come with a well-used musk. Q87 rooms (28 singles 180 - 325zł, 53 doubles 230 - 460zł, 1 suite 405 - 645zł, 5 apartments 380 - 540zł). TJHARUGK hhh Feniks ul. Czeremchowa 26, tel./fax 061 832 60 75, pensjonat@feniks.poznan.pl, www.feniks.poznan.pl. Essentially decent apartments decorated with some florid yellow colour schemes. Housed inside a modern, suburban townhouse, Feniks is geared towards the traveller with independence in mind; all rooms have kitchens, private bathrooms and lounges furnished in a generic showroom style. Q18 rooms (16 singles 150 - 340zł, 8 doubles 210 - 460zł, 2 apartments 320 - 700zł). ALGW hh Gromada ul. Babimojska 7, tel. 061 867 63 61, fax 061 867 31 61, hotelpoznan@gromada.pl, www.gromada.pl. A large, ugly block conceals dull, unimaginative accommodation. But while Gromada won’t win points for beauty, it’s clean, cheap and only a kilometre from the city centre. The arsenal of facilities include a pharmacy, beauty centre and currency exchange. Q73 rooms (70 singles 155 - 330zł, 66 doubles 195 - 390zł, 3 apartments 232 - 590zł). PHARULKDW hhh Henlex ul. Spławie 43, tel. 061 879 87 71, fax 061 870 59 03, henlex@hotel-henlex.com.pl, www.hotel-henlex. com.pl. From the outside this stark, sand-coloured block appears quite forbidding, and the neon hotel sign adds to an eerie look that David Lynch would love. Step through the glass doors and Henlex takes on another guise: that of a superb mid-range hotel. Completed only recently rooms are furnished with soft colours and modern finishes - with corner bathtubs in the suites. Finnish sauna also onsite. Recommended. Q22 rooms (1 single 180zł, 19 doubles 280zł, 2 apartments 420 - 560zł). PAGKDW hhh Meridian E-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. 061 656 53 53, fax 061 656 55 26, hotel@hotelmeridian. com.pl, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. A charismatic hotel with the appeal of a private villa. The picturesque location on the fringes of a forest is complimented by warm earth tones in the rooms and all expected 21st century trimmings: cable TV, air conditioning, etc. Q10 rooms (10 singles 110 - 300zł, 10 doubles 170 - 350zł). PHALKW hhh Olimpia ul. Taborowa 8, tel. 061 864 42 00, fax 061 864 42 06, rezerwacja@hotel-olimpia.com.pl, www. reges.pl/olimpia.htm. This ugly concrete block serves as a marvellous blast-to-the-past, with musty furnishings straight from the Cold War era. Basic, dated and gloomy, though the relative proximity to the Trade Fair keeps it ticking over with 51, fax 061 855 73 50, recepcja@hotel-solei.pl, www. hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town Square Solei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns, IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street, but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket during trade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2, tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usually fully booked with groups using the conference facilities. Q11 rooms (7 singles 179 - 259zł, 2 doubles 249 - 369zł, 2 apartments 330 - 499zł). PARW Solei Rezydencja D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 855 73 Ibis H-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. 061 858 44 00, fax 061 858 44 44, h3110@accor.com, www. orbisonline.pl. If anything goes wrong, the staff get 15 minutes to fix it - otherwise you stay for free. It’s almost tempting to sabotage the plumbing, but why would you want to. Ibis offers smashing value in clean, generic rooms. Q146 rooms (146 singles 197 - 357zł, 146 doubles 197 - 357zł). PTJHAULGKW hh Ikar G-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. 061 857 67 05, fax 061 851 58 67, rezerwacja@hotelikar.com.pl, www. hotelikar.com.pl. Located on the edge of Old Town and about a ten-minute drive from the train station, Ikar is modest but pleasant, with a lot of polished stone and wood, rattan furniture and Art Nouveau-style light fixtures. One of the nine floors was recently renovated, and all rooms have satellite TV, a phone, a fridge and a bathroom with a shower. Note that prices double during trade fairs. Q144 rooms (57 singles 180 - 350zł, 80 doubles 260 - 510zł, 7 suites 310 - 590zł). PJHARULGK hhh March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 32 WHERE TO STAY System PREMIUM ul. Lechicka 101, tel. 061 821 07 00, fax 061 821 07 70, premium.poz@hotelsystem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl. A high standard, hi-tech affair featuring pleasant cream colour schemes and that great rarity in Poznań - a top-notch hotel swimming pool. Already a favourite with the corporate traveler guests can look forward to state-of-the-art conference facilities as well as after-work extras such as fitness club and a cosmopolitan looking restaurant and bar to repair to. Q107 rooms (32 singles 262 - 377zł, 68 doubles 295 - 410zł, 7 apartments 395 - 560zł). PHARUF GKDCW hhh T&T ul. Metalowa 4 (Górczyn), tel. 061 864 12 81, fax 061 864 12 82, hotel@hoteltt.com.pl, www.hoteltt. com.pl. Situated at the end of a dead-end street, and with a tram stop and taxi rank just around the corner, T&T has spacious rooms that keep the business traveller in mind. Intriguingly, not even the staff know what T&T stands for. Q17 rooms (15 singles 185 - 330zł, 15 doubles 225 380zł, 2 apartments 295 - 495zł). PHARUGKD hhh 061 842 77 94, recepcja@zagrodabamberska.pl, w w w.zagrodabamberska.pl. Wooden b eams, patterned rugs and sturdy wooden furniture create a rural ambience in this recently renovated farm-style annex. For summer the garden boasts a huge open-air barbecue, and a collection of wood car ved animals to trip over. Q10 rooms (6 singles 270 - 432zł, 6 doubles 300 - 480zł, 4 apar tments 400 - 620zł). THAUGKW hhh Pomorski E-3, ul. Sierakowska 36, tel. 061 867 28 31, fax 061 867 53 62, pomorskihotel@neostrada.pl, www. hotel-pomorski.dmf.pl. Pictures of Italy greet the guest from the newly renovated walls of Pomorski’s corridors. After being completely overhauled, the hotel now has a better reception area, very comfy family rooms (3-bedded) but rather bland double rooms. It’s a short walk to the tramstop on Grunwaldska. Q68 rooms (25 singles 155zł, 38 doubles 220zł, 4 suites 300zł, 1 apartment 450zł). HAULGK hh Sport F-5, ul. Chwiałkowskiego 34, tel. 061 833 05 91, fax 061 833 24 44, sporthotel@posir.poznan.pl, www.posir.poznan.pl. Although it’s located in the Nautilus Sports Centre you’re going to get enough exercise humping your bags up three flights of stairs. Rooms are clean, recently painted and fully renovated, but come with the sort of identikit furniture and carpets you’d find in an office. Beggars can’t be choosers, and Sport isn’t bad value. Pay extra to use the sports complex. Q23 rooms (3 singles 130 - 230zł, 16 doubles 160 - 290zł, 2 triples 200 - 390zł, 2 apartments 260 - 585zł). HAFGDC hh Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. Hostels Frolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (Entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. 061 852 44 11, bookings@frolicgoatshostel.com, www.frolicgoatshostel.com. A sign of Poznań’s evolution is the opening of the first bona fide hostel in the city - no longer are budget breakers limited to taking their chances in spartan student dorms that smell of dirty socks. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 man dorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everything smells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is, and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimney as well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hot water. Q7 rooms (2 doubles 140 - 200zł, 2 quads 240 - 260zł). 36 dorm beds 50-70zł per person. AGW Budget Gold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. 061 842 07 74, fax 061 842 07 73, goldhotel@goldhotel.pl, www.goldhotel.pl. A small suburban hotel with boxy modern rooms complete with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweets on the reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Close to the airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town by chariot. Q11 rooms (11 singles 158zł, 11 doubles 198zł). AW hh Out of town Batory ul. Leszczyńska 7-13, tel. 061 832 44 81, fax 061 832 42 30, info@batory.poznan.pl, www.batory.poznan.pl. A modern exterior, and an interior loosely inspired by a scrapped Atlantic liner called the Batory - bits and pieces from the ship decorate the lobby and bar. Rooms are comfortable and reasonably plush. With a lively interpretation of the words ‘located near the centre,’ getting to Batory involves either a taxi or taking a tram to the end of the line before hopping onto a bus for two stops. Q20 rooms (5 singles 254 - 380zł, 14 doubles 320 - 480zł, 1 apartment 650 - 700zł). PTHAGKW hhh 061 296 22 11, fax 061 296 15 26, delicja@delicja.com. pl. A 20km drive from Poznań city centre, Delicja features rooms decorated with prissy flowery patterns and standard hotel fittings such as satellite TV and air-con. Downstairs on-site facilities include fitness centre, sauna and conference room. Owned by the same team behind the award-winning Delicja restaurant in Poznań, so expect top-class dining as well. Q24 rooms (16 singles 165zł, 8 doubles 230zł). PHARFGKD hhh Mini Hotelik A-3, Al. Niepodległości 8a (entrance on ul. Taylora), tel. 061 633 14 16, fax 061 633 18 60, bartlomiej.baginski@wp.pl, www.trans-tor.poznan.pl. Not much chance of finding English spoken here, though sign language is always enough to get a place at one of the best budget deals in town. Spotless rooms occupy the top floor of a residential building, and though some share bathroom facilities the small scale of this operation guarantees queues for your morning shower are unlikely. Rooms come with TV and furniture that is kept religiously scrubbed. If you’re returning late you’ll need to buzzed in by a member of staff. Q11 rooms (2 singles 65 - 120zł, 5 doubles 120 - 160zł, 3 triples 220zł, 1 apartment 160 - 224zł). (no breakfast served). G Naramowice ul. Naramowicka 150, tel. 061 822 75 43, fax 061 820 27 81, hotel@naramowice.pl, www. naramowice.pl. An ugly concrete building that wouldn’t be out of place on a council estate hides a perfectly acceptable interior. The rooms are plain but smart, and although they won’t fuel the creative poet inside of you, they offer moderate comfort and fair value. Way in the north of the city. Q54 rooms (48 singles 150 - 318zł, 48 doubles 170 - 336zł, 6 suites 200 - 400zł). Breakfast 18zł. HAL GKW hh Poznań In Your Pocket Delicja Hotel ul. Mostowa 22 (Oborniki Wielkopolskie), tel. Search for rates and availability or book online at www.inyourpocket.com/country/ poland.html 34 WHERE TO STAY The Enigma Code The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of Britain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots and whose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate against the Luftwaffe, is today common knowledge. As is the role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in 1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the German Enigma code. What’s this got to do with Poznań, we hear you ask. Well, it all began here, namely in the mathematics class of Poznań’s University. Ace students Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski came to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account of their excellent German skills and sharp mathematical minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It was here they made the first vital Engima breakthrough using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the theorem that won WWII.’ On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the French instead. This proved more successful and from there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix, a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at sea in 1942 after the boat carried him sank in suspicious circumstances, Zygalski and Rejewski however made it to Spain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding them over the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the pair were arrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, only freed the following year after intervention by the Red Cross. Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed in Boxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of having done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma code their knowledge was not called on by the American and British codebreakers who were cracking new and improved Enigma codes at Bletchely Park, hence the vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in the memory. After the war Rejewski returned to Poland where he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny from internal security services, and working in a succession of menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973 he became an unwitting superstar, and his work was finally recognized with a series of honours. He died in 1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalski chose to remain in England and spent the post-war years working as a maths teacher. He died in 1978 and is buried in London. Although the trio have since received numerous posthumous awards their role in winning the war remains a little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped by silver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. Since 1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s Collegium Majus has been in place honouring the three, and in 2006 an obelisk bearing their names was unveiled on ul. Św. Marcin in what was formerly the Maths Department of the uni. RESTAURANTS Dwór w Podstolicach (Podstolice Manor House) ul. Kasztanowa 50 (Podstolice/Nekla ), tel. 061 438 68 08, fax 061 438 68 92, dwor@podstolice.pl, www.podstolice. pl. Indulge yourself at this restored 19th century manor house. Set in an old park the final effect is over-the-top, and the glut of antiques and peacocks pose an obstacle course in themselves. Activities include shooting, driving range, horse-andbuggy and banisters for kids to slide down. Period furnishings, oil paintings and other froufrou trappings decorate the interior. Q15 rooms (1 single 180 - 215zł, 13 doubles 250 - 300zł, 1 apartment 350 - 420zł). THARLGK ul. Poznańska 6 (Skórzewo), tel. 061 814 87 77, fax 061 814 30 99, recepcja@dworekskorzewski.pl, www.dworekskorzewski.pl. An impressive but strange guesthouse decorated with bear pelts, hunting trophies, brass lamps, wood-carved furniture and ghastly paintings. Interestingly, aside from golf and tennis nearby, corporate activities also include lessons in ‘sausage making’. They use a colourful interpretation of what constitutes an indoor pool. Q19 rooms (3 singles 250zł, 15 doubles 350zł, 1 apartment 500zł). PALGKCW (Swarzędz), tel. 061 647 47 47, fax 061 647 47 48, recepcja@eurohotel.swarzedz.pl, w w w.eurohotel. swarzedz.pl. Comfortable, sparkling clean, and with a boxish exterior that would not be out of place on a modern retail estate. Inside Euro has high-standard rooms with rich scarlet carpets and all the trappings an urbane business traveller can ask for. The hotel restaurant occupies a marble-floored atrium. Q46 rooms (25 singles 160zł, 10 doubles 230zł, 1 triple 250 - 300zł, 7 suites 250 - 300zł, 2 apartments 350zł). HARULGKW hhh Poznan might have a reputation as an international centre of commerce but it’s restaurant scene is still very much in its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class restaurants, but you’re ethnic options are limited in both number and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible, and most will stay open past their closing times if customers are still lingering. The prices we list in brackets reflect the cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. As with most of the city’s bars and clubs, restaurants tend to remain open past their closing times if customers are lingering. 35 Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas B Outside seating R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi Dworek Skórzewski (Skórzewski Manor House) American Alabama C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15a, tel. 061 852 75 27, w w w.alabama-restaurant.pl. You’ll find some restaurants going from strength to strength in Poznan, others choosing the opposite direction. Alabama follows the lead of the latter. Back in October we were served up the worst steak we’ve ever tried, complete with a pile of veg right out of a school canteen. Surely it couldn’t get any worse? Course it could. This time round we didn’t get within two bites of our club sandwich before sending it back. Note to the chef: eggs and bacon taste better cooked. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-75zł). PTAESW tel. 061 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Should you ever wish to feel like that python who swallowed a crocodile then head thee to Rodeo Drive, an excellent venture where no-one leaves hungry. Making the most of their Stary Browar location the spacey Rodeo Drive combines bare bricks, steel pipes and skylights with trad mid-west touches like cow hide seats, cacti and cattle horns. It looks impressive, but not half as impressive as the menu. Ribs and fajitas are a couple of choices worth pondering though you’ll find most eyes fixed directly on the steaks; possibly the best in town. Filet mignon was off the menu on our visit, though the strip steak was by no means a poor substitute, and perfectly paired with bacon branded beans and loaded jacket potatoes. A pleasure from start to finish with return visits guaranteed. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTAXSW Euro Hotel Swar zędz ul. Cies zkowskiego 33 Rodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38, www.sioux.com.pl. Putting the bar into barbecue there’s as much drinking as there is dining in this Wild West eater y, and that shouldn’t come as much of a surprise; the food is no more than a hit-and-miss affair, with pizzas that go hard minutes after being ser ved, an d ‘ran ch fo o d’ ser ve d wi th d oll ops of b e etro ot. The sign outside proclaims this to be a steakhouse, though we onl y saw one cow on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (12-99zł). PTAEBXSW Green Hotel ul. Jeziorna 1a (Komorniki), tel. 061 810 80 75, fax 061 810 81 23, rezerwacja@greenhotel.pl, www. greenhotel.pl. If you’re looking for accommodation away from the bright lights then Green Hotel presents a solid choice. Located in a wooded area 11km from the city centre, this hotel has a sleek American style, and a list of facilities as long as your arm. Modern interiors and pleasant colours. Q44 rooms (4 singles 220 - 449zł, 36 doubles 280 - 549zł, 4 apartments 799 - 1099zł). PTHARULGKDCW hhhh Ossowski ul. Dąbrówki 1 (Kobylnica), tel. 061 815 81 00, fax 061 815 81 88, recepcja@hotel-ossowski. com.pl, www.hotel-ossowski.com.pl. A smart hotel offering three star standards and accommodation that comes with satellite TVs perched high in the corners, and smallish bathrooms that positively sparkle. A fitness center with Jacuzzi and sauna looks set to be added in the not-too-distant future. Q78 rooms (9 singles 160 - 300zł, 65 doubles 220 - 400zł, 2 triples 270 - 450zł, 2 suites 300 - 450zł). HARUK hhh 26 13, fax 061 447 26 19, wasowo@wasowo.pl, www. wasowo.pl. Pick between staying in a baroque mansion, a neo-gothic palace or a rustic-themed gardener’s cottage. The Wąsowo complex is well off the radar - 40km from Poznań - but you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Poland which can boast the same level of history and heritage. Each room is furnished in individual style, offering a good balance of antiques and modern gadgets. Indoor swimming pool, wine cellar, billiard room and horse-drawn carts are just a few of the distractions at your disposal. Q60 rooms (51 singles 160 - 350zł, 51 doubles 220 - 450zł, 9 apartments 450 - 700zł). THAUKDCW hhhh Pałac Wąsowo ul. Parkowa 1 (Kuślin), tel. 061 447 Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 36 RESTAURANTS Sioux Classic D-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. 061 851 62 86, www.sioux.com.pl. A ranch-styled restaurant with bashful staff looking awkward dressed as cowboys and Indians. Wagons, cacti and lanterns are squeezed into every available corner, while the open kitchen keeps the air fresh with the smell of food grilling and roasting. First rate steaks, burgers and several Mexican options available at very fair prices. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (1899zł). PTJAS Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. A Sheraton-based bar/eatery with an upscale American diner decor and a menu that includes knockout fajitas and Poznan’s best burger. The prices are high for this city, but the portions are large enough to have you readjusting your belt when no-one else is looking. As night settles SPE becomes the melting pot where an après-office crowd head to for Sky Sports and live bands. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (28-89zł). PTAUESW RESTAURANTS Zielony Smok (The Green Dragon) B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 7, tel. 061 851 35 95. Budget prices are no defence for putrid food. Apparently they serve Vietnamese and Chinese food but we were stuck to find anything that resembled either. Your plate of goo comes eventually served by slothlike wait staff. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (10-24zł). PAGS 37 Fine dining 59, www.bazanciarnia.pl. One of the most famous dining rooms in Poznań, and the creation of celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler. Framed oil paintings of pheasants hang on the walls, while scattering of fruit and flowers fill the rest of the interior, generating of a feeling of Laura Ashley meets Great Homes of the Aristocracy. Bow-tied waiters attend to each whim and fancy, while the menu features venison, lamb and the house dish, pheasant marinated in orange juice. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50-250zł). PTABXSW SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Bażanciarnia C-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. 061 855 33 Australian NEW 061 852 47 05, www.kangaroohouse.pl. A disaster, from start to finish. First appearances aren’t too kind; this place looks like it was put together in under a minute, with cheap and wobbly bamboo furniture and a half-hearted stab at a few surfing murals. Then there’s the menu: take your chances on dishes like ‘Chicken One’, or maybe really the push the boat out and order ‘Chicken Two’. We went for the kangaroo steak, and ended up hacking our way through something that looked and tasted like the blackened stump of a pirates leg. No working light in the toilet, either, so good luck. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. From April Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-50zł). TBXW Kangaroo House D-2, ul. Klasztorna 17/18, tel. Delicja B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 852 11 28, www. delicja.eu. Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this. Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of French, Italian and Polish recipes including superb pieces of cookling such as roast lamb and beef sirloin. This definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the interior comes filled with silver candleholders, immaculate linen and classical music. As soon as the sun comes out, take advantage of one of the better gardens in town. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (48-120zł). PTAUEGBSW Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A recommended Danish-owned spot, and the expat choice. The interior is smart casual, with plenty of shine, gloss and cream coloured fabrics. A team of stunning waitresses trot around serving everything from Danish herring and beef, to thick steaks the size of car tyres. Featuring a seperate sports bar, cafe, pub and cocktail bar Dom Vikingow is everything you can wish for under one roof, and unsurprisingly the after-work HQ for the corporate traveller. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (36-78zł). PTABSW Figaro C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. 061 852 08 16, www. figaro.poznan.pl. Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place amongst the starched tablecloths and vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of most western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list of pasta, beef tenderloin and veal and an expansive wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is their fish menu, reputed to be the best in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (23-56zł). PTAS 85 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in a modern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered one of the best in the city, and is comprised of dishes like swordfish and rack of lamb. It has an impressive wine list, and staff far removed from the haphazard twits you find in some of Poznań’s more respected eateries. Le Palais has been recognized by Newsweek Polska as one of the top restaurants in the country. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (47-99zł). PTABXSW Chinese Azalia B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 853 24 42, www.azalia.poznan.pl. A mammoth Chinese restaurant bursting with the requisite paper lanterns and dragons. Although far from a gourmet experience this is by no means a waste of time and the menu offers the full repertoire of oriental delights. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (13-49zł). PTAXS NEW This place tries to kill two birds with one stone by claiming to serve both Chinese and Italian food. We ordered a pizza, before being politely informed they didn’t have any Italian food left, prompting the question just what kind of restaurant runs out of food. Further investigations were abandoned after a quick look at the scatological carnage in the toilet. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-48zł). TJAUGS Bambus D-2, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. 061 853 06 58. Le Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. 061 665 Pekin B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 33, tel. 061 852 63 70, www. Restauracja Bażanciarnia Ul. Stary Rynek 94 61-773 Poznań Tel. 061-855-33-58/59 pekin.pl. Relive the age of Bruce Lee in this colourful riot of dragons, pagodas and hanging lanterns. Pekin has assumed the title of best Chinese in town, and the prodigious menu more or less covers everything ever ordered in a Chinese restaurant. The duck dishes are a real highlight, and it should come as no surprise to see this restaurant frequently mobbed by a ties-off trade fair crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (13-49zł). PTAXS Full contents online: www.inyourpocket.com March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 38 RESTAURANTS Nalewka C-2, Stary Rynek 2 (Waga Miejska), tel. 061 853 21 24, www.nalewka.pl. Set to become something of a landmark on Poznań’s dining scene, the location - right next to the town hall - is second to none, though that’s just one of the reasons they enjoy return custom. Firstly, an explanation of the name; Nalewki are traditional Polish fruit and herb vodkas, made according to complicated recipes passed through time. You’ll find several in here, from green walnut to pepper with honey, and they go perfectly to the high standard food. The newspaperstyle menu involves European and Polish dishes, and includes orange galzed chicken breast and seared tuna inside a high-end interior that comes with plants and a wood-carved bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (24-55zł). TJAEBS Panorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel. 061 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Not your standard hotel dining experience. Views of Lake Malta give a pronounced romantic angle, while the award winning chefs turn their hand to Polish/European classics. The sole served with asparagus noodles comes recommended. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (3956zł). PTAUBXSW Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061 843 41 12, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Forget any misconceptions you may have about taking your dinner inside a hotel restaurant, this is something completely different. Serving tradtional regional dishes, including Bamberg recipes, this restaurant has atmosphere in abundance with its timber beams and ornate lamps. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (30-68zł). TAUEBSW models of fishing vessels while the menu is a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb served with mint sauce. Worth looking out for their monthly Greek evenings, where 80zł buys you license to consume as much as you can from their special menu, before concluding the evening by smashing your plates to the sound of live music. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (29-45zł). PTAESW RESTAURANTS 39 Indian Taj India J-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. 061 876 62 49, www. taj-india.pl. Back to its worst following a brief and unlikely renaissance. If you want to spend the next day making furtive dashes to the toilet then by all means, dine here, otherwise you’d be best off buying a can of curry from the supermarket and attempting the donkeywork yourself. You’re far from the city centre here, as well, so expect to be shelling out on cab fares. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-42zł). TAUBXSW International Adria E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061 865 83 74, www. adria.poznan.pl. This large, glitzy, tinselly dine-and-dance restaurant next to the International Fair is used mostly for banquets and parties to mark special occasions. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. (26-96zł). AEBS Alexander B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. 061 852 28 12, www.alexander.poznan.pl. Smart waiters ferry Mediterranean inspired dishes to diners sat amid twisting vines, Venetian murals and statuettes of cherubs. High class and formal, absolutely no peasants allowed, Alexander is one of the few restaurants in town that will cook up a lamb for you. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (32-112zł). PTAUBXSW Ali Baba C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 11, tel. 061 853 29 83, www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A cave-like interior with multi-coloured lamps hanging from the ceilings and a menu that is not too dissimilar - but far more enjoyable - to Sphinx; lusty helpings of meat, pizzas and sandwiches with grilled fillings. A set of hookah pipes planted by the wall complete the Arabian Nights theme.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-41zł). PTABXS Restauracja Bażanciarnia Ul. Stary Rynek 94 61-773 Poznań Tel. 061-855-33-58/59 French Patio D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 855 10 27, www. patio-poznan.pl. A pretty old town spot with all the atmosphere of rural France. The name alludes to the interior, which is all patio furnishings, drooping plants and an even a mock fountain settled into the corner. The crepes are the forte, though perhaps a little optimistically priced, while diners looking for something a little more substantial get to choose from options like salmon steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-49zł). PAEBXSW Fusion Fusion E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl. Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it’s meant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated in coconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat scurrying to work. Above average prices, but with the quality to warrant the indulgence. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:30. (34-86zł). PTAUEBSW Greek Pireus E-4, ul. Głogowska 35, tel. 061 866 51 27, www. pireus.poznan.pl. A typical caricature of the Greek restaurant abroad. Plaster statues and Doric pillars fill the compact venue, and the small but straight-forward menu holds all the usual suspects: gyros, kalamari and souvlaki. Industrious service and a casual atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (24-60zł). TAXS Tawerna Mykonos B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Relive your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue and white interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beach scenes and scale Poznań In Your Pocket Bee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www.beejays.pl. Permanently docked in the shadow of the old town hall Beejay’s features a crazy design (quarrying explosives, scabbards, a model galleon) that also includes a stained glass window depicting a Mexican, Indian and Scotsman - all in differing frames of humour. The reason for this becomes apparent the moment you open the menu; find burgers on one page, chili on the next, curries on another. The menu here is the definition of multi-national, though the results are unsurprisingly mixed. The curry is no better than what you get out of a supermarket tin, but the fajitas hit the spot each time.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. (19-96zł). PJAUEBW Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73/74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. 061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. If you’re here to enjoy the beer then order some of their ‘beer snacks’: bacon rashers and sausages. Looking for something more upmarket then head to their cream coloured dining room where dapper business types dine alongside attractive assistants. The menu uses influences from Germany to Poland to the Mediterranean, with dazzling results; hence their award from Newsweek magazine. Leave space for dessert, notably the chocolate buns. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. (18-56zł). PTJABSW March - June 2008 40 RESTAURANTS Corcovado D-1, ul. Wroniecka 16, tel. 061 663 63 34, www.corcovado.pl. While Corcovada occupies the middle ground between café and restaurant, the owners say it leans slightly more toward the restaurant end of the scale. Sure enough, the menu is comprised of rather upscale European dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a more formal spot. But a café atmosphere prevails: brick walls adorned with artsy black-and-whites, a mellow atmosphere, and a slightly bohemian middle-class crowd. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (30-58zł). TJAS NEW the staff how many courses you plan on having, before being shepherded into the darkness by the staff (they’re equipped with night vision goggles, so abandon any thoughts of slipping out without paying). The contents of the meal remain a mystery until the point of departure, at which point diners have the opportunity to talk to the chef to find out what it was he cooked up for you. A super concept, and definitely a destination to track down for something different. You might also want to bring a supply of napkins to mop up any unplanned spillage. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-90zł). PTAXS Poznań’s expats doing their drinking in Coxy’s (see By night), though there’s more to this venue than beer, sports and hazy nights. The open kitchen is the source of great comfort eats like burgers and sandwiches, while some associates are already hailing their steak as the best in town. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (19-43zł). PTEBSW niecka 18 (entrance from ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwony-fortepian.pl. The strong menu is concise but good, and certainly up there with Poznań’s A-list restaurants. Try the ginger scampi for starters before moving onto some of the predominantly meat-based main courses. Both the turkey fillet and Highlander steak represent sound choices. The dark, decadent interior is ideally suited to bungling attempts at romance or business meetings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (30-80zł). PJAESW NEW Coxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74. You’ll find Czerwony Fortepian (The Red Piano) D-1, ul. Wro- Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51 17. On the one side a manly pub with football scarves and lots of lads, on the right hand side a pleasant restaurant with white on white colours, high-backed chairs and a constant stream of sightseers taking time out from the rigors of getting lost. The menu is a standard European effort with few surprises to be found. Expect a rundown of mainstay dishes like chicken breast and beef fillet. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł). PTAGBS NEW habanarestaurant.pl. A sublime space that’s certainly a contender for Poznan’s best looking venue. Filled with swivelly chairs, marble cladding and shiny surfaces this places certainly looks the business, while the badly parked sports cars outside are enough to tell you about the people found inside. The international menu includes a variety of seafood options, and somewhat surprisingly, the best pizza we’ve had in Poland. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (43- 120zł). PTAUBSW Habana C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 853 02 22, www. Dark Restaurant D-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.darkrestaurant.pl. Here’s a place with a great gimmick - it’s pitch black. The theory behind this is simple; tell Smoking or non-smoking ...nowhere in your guide does it mention the huge quantities of awful tobacco smoke produced by even a handful of customers in many establishments (in Krakow). There were quite a few times when we visited highly rated places in your guide and had to turn around and walk out again…and I’m a smoker! - Richard Bowen, Scotland Entering a bar or restaurant can be a risky business these days for both smokers looking to enjoy their habit and for non-smokers who wish to enjoy their meal, drink or coffee and newspaper without having to breathe in someone else’s fumes. This is particularly true of Poland where you face a number of issues. Many places will claim to have non-smoking sections but the size of many of these places, notably in Krakow, the passion for nicotine which still exists here and the plain poor segregation make these completely useless. To confuse matters some businesses are also adopting complete bans on smoking ahead of expected legislation already in place in other parts of the new EU such as Latvia. In order to clarify this we have adopted a new set of definitions and symbols,which are included at the end of each review, as regards smoking This restaurant or bar has a complete ban on smoking on the premises X This restaurant or bar has a smoking section on the premises If we use neither symbol this indicates that the old rules apply in that smoking is permitted on the premises and even if there is a designated no smoking area we have deemed it completely useless anyway. Imaret D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 855 11 14. Find postpubbers lining up outside the window for their traditional before bed kebab, while inside find a basic room with cutprice furnishings and a snack bar atmosphere. Popular at all hours, with the reason being Imaret far exceeds your usual fast food haunts. Grilled koftas and lamb accompanied by a spicy sauce are just two options, and the service is leagues ahead of the twits you usually find carving up your kebab. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (15-19zł). UGS Lizard King C-2, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72, www.lizardking.pl. Packed all hours. At night by Poznań’s younger element, by day with people on lunch break feasting on fish and chips, steaks and standard european eats. This is music heaven, replete with giant cellos, lighting rigs and a constant background noise of music classics from the Stones, Doors and Armstrong. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (11-50zł). PAEBSW Lokanta C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 859 64 60. Found on the top floor of Stary Browar Shopping Mall, Lokanta proves one of the highlights of the food court. Although in direct competition with the next-door Sphinx, this lunch-on-the-run option fares well by cooking a range of quality kebabs and kofta. Expect to be battling for seats with hundreds of other shoppers, so bring a big stick to shoo them away. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (16-58zł). PTAUXSW NEW G Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www. moodclub.pl. More of a cafe/bar than a restaurant but don’t let that stop you from giving the menu a perusal. There’s a good smattering of Italian/European options here, including the house penne. Regularly packed this courtyard option is bright and modern featuring lots of red and green dashes and a youngish crowd. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-44zł). PTAEBXSW Poznań In Your Pocket 42 RESTAURANTS Ignacy Jan Paderewski Born in Kuryłówka in 1860 the man many credit for sparki n g th e U pri si n g is rightfully regarded as a national icon. Having e n t e r e d t h e Wa r s a w Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising, he was elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation. His body was originally buried in a place of honour in Arlington Cemetery, Washington DC on the direction of President Franklin D Roosevelt where it was to remain until Poland gained its freedom. With Poland falling under the Soviet sphere of influence after the war that was not to be for several decades, and his body was finally returned in 1992 to Warsaw’s St John’s Cathedral. George Bush Senior led the eulogies at the ceremony, describing Paderewski as a ‘visionary statesman’, while noting that it was Paderewski who was responsible for Polish independence being included in President Woodrow Wilson’s Fourteen Points for Peace at the end of WWI. To this day Paderewski is held in reverence by all Poles, a fact confirmed by the number of parks, streets and buildings named in his honour. NEW RESTAURANTS Mosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, www. mosaica.pl. Opened in mid-February this restaurant has had some serious thought put into the design; mosaics are the central theme here, and the interior is topped off with a 1925 piano imported from Berlin. The menu is modern international with dishes including Spanish tapas and Asian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which comes prepared in front of your eyes. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. (29-86zł). PTAUEGS 43 Panama C-2, Stary Rynek 82, tel. 061 851 01 91, www. panama.poznan.pl. Occupying a spot overlooking the main square this newish venture comes decorated in an attractive style featuring plenty of warm wood surfaces and amiable, busy service. The menu is a romp through large helpings of world food, with our chicken sandwich acting as a perfect primer for the night ahead. At weekends a DJ enters the fray playing Latino music, daring diners to stay long into the evening and guests now also have the opportunity to dine at the chef’s table - where the head chef impresses in front of your eyes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (16-45zł). PTJAUEBXSW Rzymianka C-2, Al. K. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Hotel Rzymski), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski. pl. This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the Hotel Rzymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continental breakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes and sausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options include g yros, cu tlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pasta and salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photos of the dishes so you know exactly what you’re getting. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (15-32zł). PTAUGSW Sol i Pieprz (Salt and Pepper) B-2, ul. Garncarska 2, tel. 0 781 95 03 95, www.solipieprz.com.pl. A completely naff name, but in the restaurant trade the buck stops with the food and there’s no faulting the stuff that appears on the plate in front of you. On the menu find a series of modern Polish dishes - including super pierogi - served inside a pleasant environment which never comes close to outshining the chef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (11-60zł). ABXS Sonata C-2, ul. Wrocławska 14, tel. 061 852 27 01, www.restauracjasonata.pl. A modern European restaurant specialising in exotic creations like grilled salmon in mustard sauce. The main dining room is pleasant and unexciting, but downstairs you’ll find an atmospheric brick vault with a piano and a fireplace. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (25-52zł). PTJAXSW There Is Such a Place.... S .... papavero.poznan.pl. Pass through the doors of Papavero and the profusion of plantlife will have you double-checking that you haven’t entered a florist by accident. Starched tablecloths and candleholders lend an upmarket tone to the dining, while framed paintings of cherubs and wooden beams add a comfortable ambiance. This is something of a fixture on the local eating out scene, and the menu rarely disappoints with its collection of topend choices that range from black pepper steak to tuna served on marinated vegetables. The location just out of old town makes it easy to forget just how good this place is.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-82zł). PTAXS\ Papavero B-1, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. 061 853 24 82, www. Italian D-2, ul. Woźna 1, tel. 061 851 73 11. Low low prices, a friendly atmosphere and quality pizza means this place is usually packed to the rafters with locals. As well as fine pizzas there are also a wide range of pastas and desserts available. In a wonderfully encouraging twist, the man who owns the place is actually called Luigi. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:30, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (7-50zł). PTJGS Da Luigi ul. Murna 3A tel. (061) 8518 664 www.pieprzwanilia.pl Open: 12.00 - 23.00 Pieprz i Wanilia C-2, ul. Murna 3a (corner ul. Kozia), tel. 061 851 86 64, www.pieprzwanilia.pl. Formerly known as Piwnica Murna this place has seen changes aplenty. The daggers and antlers have gone, replaced by light, bright furnishing, timber touches and a menu that encompasses recipes from around Europe. The sirloin in devil sauce proves to be one of the tastiest slices of animal flesh one could wish for. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-65zł). PTAXS E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel. 061 848 48 85 ext. 202. In the cellar of the renovated Nowy Teatr, Zapadnia is an upscale café/restaurant with a flashy bar, elegant seating and glamourous guests. The regular performances and the reliably good menu with international dishes mean you really should book a table if you plan on having dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (21-39zł). PTAUEBS Valpolicella Donatello E-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 29c, tel. 061 865 Restauracja Zapadnia (The Trapdoor Restaurant) 32 99, w w w.piz za.wlkp.pl. A customar y trat toria décor of dried flowers and brickwork doesn’t do justice to what rates as some as the best pizza in Poznań. Flawless cooking and budget prices account for a constant buzz of people. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (21-46zł). PTAUBXS www.estella.com.pl. This spacious, traditional pizzeria is one of the best Italian restaurants in town, serving 45 types of pizza and an equally daunting number of pasta dishes, antipasti, salads and soups. The casual atmosphere - it’s decorated with the standard ropes of garlic cloves and farm implements - makes it ideal for families and groups. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-69zł). PTJAXS Estella D-2, ul. Garbary 41, tel. 061 852 34 10, Restaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Hotel Rzymski), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski. pl. Don’t be misled by the name. Restauracja de Rome’s menu is upscale Polish and European, not Italian, with standards pierogi and żurek alongside quail, venison and salmon. The interior is elegant and classy without being showy. Menus in English. Located in the Hotel Rzymski. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł). PTAUXSW Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32 24, www.room55.pl. A trendy bar/restaurant crossover that has seen mammoth improvements behind the scenes in the kitchen. Dine on fine cuts of veal and other such offerings while waitresses glide around ferrying colourful cocktails to a well-turned out crowd. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (16-70zł). PJAS Girasole D-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. 061 851 37 29, w w w.girasole.com.pl. Easil y overlooked on account of their end-of-old town location, though that doesn’t mean you should. Simple bu t stylish, decorations include a wooden fi ttings, tiled floors and vases of cheer ful flowers, and the menu hi ts the spot each tim e wi th h om emade pastas an d substan tials like pork fillet wi th oranges. Liberal prices leave plenty of change for the wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-45zł). TAGBS ul. Wrocławska 7 tel. 61 855 71 91 www.valpolicella.poznan.pl Open: Mon-Sun 13 - 23 March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 44 RESTAURANTS Restaurant Bar Sushi Bar RESTAURANTS 45 Mitsuro Matii invites you 密露 マーティー phone 061 8505020 www.matii.pl PFC, Plac Andersa 5 Poznań (next to Stary Browar) Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00 Sun: 13:00-22:00 Sushi Bar SAKANA ul. Wodna 7/1 Poznań tel. 61 853 16 39 www.sakana.pl La Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7a, tel. 061 853 04 89. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, served inside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldings and murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished with a flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, with the overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets. In exchange of a peel of banknotes expect to be treated to simpering service and some outstanding renditions of upscale Italian dishes, with the carpaccio worth the visit alone. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (24-150zł). PTEBSW Massimiliano Ferre B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 852 81 12, www.mf.art.pl. What can you expect from a venue that features a mystery dish called Hefalump on the menu. In Ferre’s case highly decent Italian offerings and some good pizza. The bad news is a Polish only menu, a habit as antiquated as arriving to work on a penny farthing. Nonetheless smart male staff will spring to the rescue should you have any translation issues, and as the certificates pinned to the wall affirm the good cooking here has been recognized by higher powers than ourselves. The interiors therefore are a bit of a letdown, with mass market furnishings, tacky stone cladding and floor-to-ceiling window views obscured by a phalanx of plantlife. With a bit more thought this could become a top space to enjoy Italian food at a fraction of the expected cost. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (28-61zł). TABXS 852 87 45, www.milano.poznan.pl. An interior of polished woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but you’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (28-85zł). PTABXS Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of the Stary Browar Shopping Mall (either take the elevator to second floor, or enter outside into the Słodownia section of the mall) Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected pasta and meat meals it is fish that is the forte here, with expertly prepared dishes like grilled scampi and sole in lemon to choose from. Finish the evening in their Browar Pub downstairs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-55zł). PTAUEBW Pizzeria Rozmaitości C-1, ul. Zamkowa 5, tel. 0 664 653 375. On enquiring about the chances of a takeaway pizza we were politely informed they had run out of boxes; something of an oversight for a pizzeria. On the menu a line-up of pastas and suchlike, though it was the pizza we had in our crosshairs. The chef recommends you eat it using your hands, the reason for doing so quickly becoming apparent; the cheap cutlery they use goes bendy when trying to axe your way into the rock hard crust. Polite service and a welcoming trattoria atmosphere does little to gloss over the latent faults here. QOpen 12:00 - 22.00. (10-25zł). PGS Japanese NEW Meteors Some 10,000 years ago, the unsuspecting inhabitants of the forests 10km north of what is now Poznań were in for a nasty surprise when 4,500 tonnes of white-hot rock slammed into their back yard. Forgotten in the years that followed the Morasko meteor craters were only rediscovered in 1914, when soldiers who were digging trenches during World War I came across a 77kg lump of meteorite. In total, several chunks (containing 90 per cent iron) totalling 255kg have been found at the site, often by farmers. When the disintegrating Morasko meteorite came crashing from the cosmos, the impact created eight large craters, of which seven remain today (one having been destroyed by ploughing). The meteorites came from the northeast, as the crater rims are highest to the south and southwest, allegedly as part of a Perseid meteor shower linked with the wonderfully named comet ‘Swift Tuttle’. After 10,000 years of erosion, the largest crater is still 100m wide and 13m deep. Since 1976 the area has been protected as a nature reserve and is today easily accessible from Poznań. For your slice of inter galactic drama take tram number 12, 14 or 15 from from ul. Roosevelta to the terminus at Os. Jana Sobieskiego, and then follow the bicycle route which goes under the railway and northwest towards Morasko forest. You can also get off the tram one stop earlier at Szymanowskiego, and change to bus N°88, which goes to Morasko village every 40 minutes. The craters are 600m from Morasko and 4km from the tram terminus and the surrounding beech forest is also home to numerous endangered plants. Matii Restaurant -Vodka Bar - Sushi Bar G-4, Pl. Andersa 5, tel. 061 850 50 20, www.matii.pl. The competition for Poznań’s best sushi is seriously hotting up and this place looks like a real contender for the title. Standing in the shadow of the Stary Browar mall Matii makes use of imported sushi masters to create a comprehensive range of top-notch aquatic choices that delight the masses. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19-68zł). PTAUBXS www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi ser ved inside a pale vanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessar y rice paper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar in small wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waisted fashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executed chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (9-80zł). PT JAUGSW 853 33 86, www.sushi77.com. One more venue to add to Poznań’s nascent sushi scene, and this is a pretty impressive effort. The lunch menu, priced at 29zł, allows diners to enjoy Jap food without auctioning the family efforts, while a good range of maki, sashimi and nigri also lurks on the menu. Ten out of ten for presentation, while the addition of traditional noodle dishes marks this place out ahead of its competitors. Asahi beer is available for that post-sushi moment.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (13-70zł.). PAGSW Sakana D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. 061 853 16 39, Sushi 77/Noodle bar D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. 061 Milano Ristorante F-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel. 061 Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. 061 855 71 91, www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This offbeat Italian trattoria offers 21 types of antipasti (carpacchio, bruscheta, etc.), the usual meat and pasta dishes, and wines from Veneto and Tuscany. What really sets it apart is the decor, which is crazily asymmetrical and painted in cartoonish colours. The staff are friendly and speak English, German and Italian. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (23-66zł). PTJAXS Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 46 RESTAURANTS Sushi Sekai C-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. 061 853 35 33, www.sushisekai.pl. Your sushi sets come covertly prepared behind the scenes and presented to you inside a smartly appointed interior that features dark lacquered woods and square paneled lamps. Great presentation (keep an eye for the sushi sets laid out onto a wooden bridge structure), and good flavours, as well as a series of more substantial main courses such as beef sirloin in teriyaki sauce served on a hot plate. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (28-70zł). PTAXS RESTAURANTS Polish Bamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. 061 852 99 17. A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps, stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing to detract from a strong European menu that includes several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-45zł). PTJABS NEW 47 Jewish Cymers D-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. 061 851 66 38, www.cymespoznan.pl. Time stands still in Cymers, where Poznań’s once rich Jewish heritage is perfectly preserved in a nostalgic dining room sprinkled with menorahs, empire furniture and cloth-capped jars. The menu quite literally tells the story of Jewish cuisine and bursts with familiar dishes like carp, czulent and chicken skewers, presented by amiable white-shirted waiters. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00. (18-36zł). TJABS Mexican Czerwone Sombrero (The Red Sombrero) B-3, ul. Piekary 17, tel. 061 852 61 01, www.czerwonesombrero.pl. A vivacious eatery filled with bright colours and Aztec handicrafts; come here on a Friday night and an animated atmosphere comes guaranteed. Aesthetically this venue is a joy, though anyone with a nose for Mexican food will be left disappointed. Mexican food has not exported well to Poland, and the tacos and tortillas here are little more than middle-of-the-road. Don’t bother with the salsa, it packs all the bite of a sedated squirrel. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (2038zł). TABS (entrance from ul. Franciszkanska), tel. 061 853 66 60, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. Another nationwide chain enterprise, this one with jars of pickles and strings of ham decorating a primitive peasant interior filled with wooden chests and rusty saws. The menu is meat and potatoes farmers fare with portions coming in giant sizes; this is a carnival of calories that may leave some guests needing to be rolled home in a wheelbarrow. Start off with local soups before loosening the belt and working through homemade dumplings, lard and sausages. QOpen 12:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12,5-55zł). PTAES Chłopskie Jadło (Peasant Food) D-2, Stary Rynek 77 Dramat C-2, Stary Rynek 41, tel. 061 856 09 38. One of the few places in the Rynek where you can enjoy a pile of food without peeling off a number of banknotes. Serving a breakfast menu of sausages and eggs, late risers will head straight into their main menu which includes a pretty definitive list of Polish dishes - ranging from pierogi and their assorted fillings to pork chops. Vast, with stout wooden extending into the cellars and an amiable set of staff keeping a watchful eye on their customers. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (11-27zł). TJABXS Skansen Miniatur If you thought the Poznań model was good then wait till you see this place; a collection of Wielkopolska landmarks painstakingly built on a scale of 1:20. Set outdoors visitors get to walk Jack and the Beanstalk-like amid exact replicas of structures like the Iron Age fort at Biskupin, Rogalin Palace and Poznań Cathedral. It’s a marvelous work of craftsmanship and should appeal to all ages, whether your 7 or 77. This is truly one of the 7 wonders of Wielkoposka, though the bad news is that like all wonders of the world it’s bloody hard to reach; take the Poznań – Gniezno train before getting off at the village of Pobiedziska. If your lucky you’ll find a taxi waiting, if not be prepared to cover the remaining couple of kilometers on foot. Admission is priced at 5/4zł and it’s open from 8am to 8pm (closed Monday). For further details check out www.okis-pobiedziska.pl. 05 36, www.mexican.pl. Informal waiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door, then lead you to take your chances on what might stand ou t as the worst meal of your year. We’d like to see a picture of the chef added to the Wanted posters on the walls, as the man is clearly an imposter and well out of his depth running a kitchen. Your burrito arrives drowned in florid sauces and cabbage, while the ‘bardzo ostre’ (ver y spicy) flag proudly impaled on top of the mess is nothing but a lie. QOpen 12:30 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 13:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. (15-40zł). TAEBS The Mexican C-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. 061 851 Kresowa C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 12 91. This standout restaurant in the centre of Stary Rynek is pleasantly old-fashioned, with classic furniture and brisk waistcoated staff serving up appetisers like caviar and shrimp cocktail, and main dishes like veal, beef tenderloin and grilled salmon. Remember to look up: the ceiling is covered with witty caricatures of Polish celebrities who’ve eaten here, including Nobel laureate Czesław Miłosz and tennis star Wojciech Fibak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16-45zł). PTJAEBXS Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37, tel. 061 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill’s Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that takes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thing in the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (21- 80zł). TAUBS Pizzerias Pizza Hut G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary browar), tel. 0 660 70 96 42, www.pizzahut.com.pl. Surely you haven’t travelled all the way to Poland to eat in Pizza Hut have you? Not the most of adventurous options, expect exactly what you get back home. Also on ul. Sz wajcarska 14, ul. Murawa 104 and ul. Kaspra Drużbickiego 2 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (10-40zł). PTAGS pizzeriativoli.pl. A basic, intimate spot with wooden booths and bunches of garlic and spices hanging everywhere. A pioneer on the Poznań pizza scene since 1991, they serve 40 types of pizza with every ingredient you can think of and a few that would never occur to you, like peach and banana. Other locations can be found on Naramowicka 187 and Czesława 3. Expect the same. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (1130zł). TJAXS Markowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. 061 853 01 78. A superb addition to Poznań drinking and dining, Markowa Knajpa has an air of rustic minimalism, with whitewashed walls, valium grooves and dark timbers. Excellent value local dishes are presented to the thirtysomething crowd by a team of friendly bargirls. We had the classic steak and weren’t disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (22-48zł). TAREBS 54. A pleasant surprise this place, so much so that we’re even ready to overlook the presence of a big screen tuned to MTV. The food here is deliciously simple, hunks of meats served with crinkly fries and served to local recipes. It won’t win awards, but it will fill the gap and leave you needing to be airlifted back to your hotel. Cellos and fiddles hang from the arched ceilings, and the collection of wood furnishings and assorted junk lend themselves well to the warming winter atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (18-35zł). AX Tivoli D-1, ul. Wroniecka 13, tel. 061 852 39 16, www. Pod Aniołem C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 852 98 Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 48 RESTAURANTS Quick eats Ali Baba B-1, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. 061 853 32 71, www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A decent sit-down venture with the obligatory hunk of meat spinning on a skewer, and crowd of post-club fatalities getting chili sauce down their trousers. Pics of the middle east brighten the pastel coloured interior and the late night snacks rate highly with anyone whose broken the eight pint limit. Q Open 24hrs. (7-26zł). PSW RESTAURANTS Pod Dzwonkiem D-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. 061 851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Resembling a traditional mountain lodge Under the Bell features a variety of rustic touches, with timber beams loaded with rusting machinery, pumpkins and ferns. Bar stools are fashioned out of saddles, while elsewhere diners can sit on seating carved from barrels, before ordering lavish helpings of ribs stewed in beer and honey, or skewered animals fresh from the grill. Simple but effective. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (2347zł). TABXSW Pod Koziołkami C-2, Stary Rynek 95, tel. 061 851 78 68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standing restaurant that has been delighting both carnivores and vegetarians for years. Upstairs you’ll find a huge pantry with the daily salads and pierogi on the menu. Head downstairs to the grill cellar for your daily protein quota. The interiors in this section are authentically shadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu is a good range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (12-64zł). PTJABXS D-1, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.podzlotajablonia.com.pl. A magnificent effort where cherubs and edgy artwork burst from the sumptuous fittings, and a trip here has all the effect of dining in a private members club. The menu is largely based on Polish cuisine, with a smattering of international dishes, while the chef isn’t afraid to use his imagination. Dishes include a recommended duck with aniseed and honey, made using the finest ingredients you’ll find. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (12-79zł). PTAREXS 49 Far East so close... Taste Thai at Fusion restaurant All you can eat Thai buffet starting from 17th of April More info on: www.sheraton.pl/poznan/promotions.php or (61) 655 2000, Sheraton Poznan Hotel, Bukowska 3/9, Poznan KFC E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1 (Poznan Railway Station), tel. 061 633 37 77, www.kfc.pl. The nearest KFC outlet to the centre. Note the early closing times. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-53zł). TAS 856 00 60, www.mcdonalds.pl. The familiar golden arches can be found close to the City Information Centre and also at ul. Głogowska 14 (E-4) about 5 minutes walk from the train station. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. PTAUGSW McDonald’s B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, tel. 061 Spanish tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanish spot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd. Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars; from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanic paintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the best we’ve tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowing diners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clattering around cursing less competent colleagues. Always a good night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. (30-60zł). PJABS Tapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www. Roti C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 061 851 68 87. Last issue we complained of ‘revolting kebabs stuffed with gristle and served by girls at the bottom of the career ladder’. Fast forward four months and something very strange has happened. An intrepid sense of duty took us on a return trip here and we couldn’t have been proved more wrong. This time round it was Poznan’s best kebab tightly packed in a tortilla and served up by an enthusiastic boy clearly under the impression that working in an all night kebab shop is every bit as great as being an astronaut. Q Open 24hrs. (6-18zł). PGS www.sioux.com.pl. Operating out of the Sioux restaurant on the corner of the square and ul. Szkolna, this is actually a pretty reliable option for a burger on the run particularly late into the night. The lads working behind the counter generally speak a bit of English and the queue of students and revellers normally found outside reflects both the value and the tastiness of the burgers, kebabs and sandwiches on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. Sat, Sun 24hrs. (7-15zł). www.avanti.poznan.pl. A no-frills sustenance solution that possibly rates as the best bargain you’ll find on the Rynek. The interiors are completely basic, but the food does the talking here, with a variety of very decent spaghetti combos to choose from. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (4-14zł). PJGS Pod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Apple-tree) hyperbole. Part of the reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, and Taste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan design leaves diners open to peering eyes, but there’s no faulting the aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured bottles set behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good quickie tapas bites cooked with confidence and presented with flair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (15-30zł). PAUXSW Vegetarian 04 10. A happy little canteen-like vegetarian lunch restaurant in a courtyard cellar. The menu is Polish only, but the locals will point out what’s good. Go for an affordable warm meal with tofu or potato pancakes or have a big salad. This is also a good place to mingle with people who pretend to be artists. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (5-15zł). GS Bar Wegetariański C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 851 Taste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary browar II floor), tel. 061 278 76 86, www.taste-barcelona.com. Stary Browar keeps surprising us. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than a mall’, but here’s one that actually justifies the Sioux City D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38, Ratuszowa C-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. 061 851 05 13, www.ratuszowa.poznan.pl. Either dine upstairs or descend into a sprawling brick cellar, complete with vaulted arches and musical instruments hanging from the walls. Stroganoff, steak, duck and other meaty meals are expertly served by a team of dashing waiters. Serious carnivores should consider ordering the Ratuszowa plate; it includes eight types of meat and feeds two. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (16-72zł). PJAEXW On the grapevine Loads of comings and goings to report with this issue, and we might as well get the baddie out of the way first. A contender for Poznań’s worst meal has to be the freshly opened Kangaroo House, a half-witted Ozzie effort that fires warning flares to anyone considering a trip down under. Fortunately the rubbish has been offset by some fabulous new places, and there isn’t anywhere we like more than Coxy’s, an expat run venue with Sky Sports and fryups of legend. We’ve also got a big thing for Habana; head here for top-end cocktails and beautiful food. Other venues of note include Matii, a sushi star, and Mosaica, the showpiece effort in the Hotel Andersia. Night-wise then those with two left pegs can learn to tango at Cuba Libre, while Tokyo Underground has cracking electro nights. Terapia has finally reopened, this time under the new name of Kultowa, while judging by the resultant memory loss Malibu has a fatal range of cocktails. Cactusfactoria looks like it could be a fun pre-club venue, while in the Rynek work is finally underway on the boutique hotel Pałac Działynskich – we can expect that to open at the end of the year. Sticking to hotels, head Sheraton way for a few reasons. First off, this is going to be the place for St Pat’s Day on the March 17; expect prizes galore and an eight man band, while gluing it together will be the copious flow of Guinness – 18zł buys you two. Foodies, make a note in your diary; April 17 is the inviteonly opening of the Taste Thai Festival in the Sheraton, and for the rest of that month from Monday through to Saturday diners get the opportunity to splurge 99zł on an eat all you want Thai buffet prepared in front of you by imported masters. If you can’t make either of those dates then don’t worry, show up instead to the Sunday Brunch held from 12:30 to 17:00. An outlay of 130zł gets you a buffet comprising of ten main courses, and free flow booze. Spagetheria C-2, Stary Rynek 76, tel. 061 852 32 85, 88 01, www.w-z.pl. W-Z is nothing less than an A-Z of Polish cooking, with everything from pancakes to pierogi to pork knuckle to deal with. This place is vast, and comes rammed with the obligatory timber décor, flower pots and tree branches. Definitely a first stop to get acquainted with the local dinner habits, and highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13-51zł). PTJAEXSW W-Z Strefa Tańca A-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel. 061 665 Sphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. 061 852 07 02, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain have cornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market, with fans ranging from an early twenties set to dreamy couples making their collective funds stretch. There is no such thing as a quiet night here with tables snapped up like hotcakes. The menu does not challenge the imagination and is a vast list of burgers, kebabs and pizzas. This is not gourmet dining; the chef’s piece de resistance appears to be a dollop of ‘surowki’ (dry shredded cabbage and carrot) which finds itself on every plate, but despite this you’ll find yourself returning. Note that only the outlet on Sw. Marcin has extended opening hours from Wednesday through to Saturday.QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Also at D-2 Stary Rynek 77, Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PTAXSW Poznań In Your Pocket Brunch Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations. poznan@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. For years now, Sundays have been ‘Brunch day’ for many expats and the brunch experience is now available in Poznan thanks to the Sheraton. Priced at 130zł for adults, with a 50% discount for children between the ages of 6 and 12 and a 100% discount for those under 6, the package offers food in a buffet format which includes a choice of 16 starters, 10 main dishes and desserts. With a similarly unlimited choice of soft drinks and selected alcohol, live music and a play corner for the kids, there are few better ways to spend your Sunday afternoons. Brunch is served from 12:30 to 17:00 every Sunday. March - June 2008 50 CAFÉS Atmosfera D-1, ul. Mokra 2, tel. 061 851 03 99. Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west should make a beeline here. Going completely against the grain these guys have taken the inspired step of getting rid of their nosmoking section; good work lads. This is a cracking cafe/bar, its two floors complete with creaking floorboards, fragile cabinets, weird artwork and huddles of academics leafing through notebooks. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. TAW Find cat pictures adorning every possible space, some cute, some scary. A gigantic stock of teas, and decent selection of desserts are at your disposal. The dark lighting makes it a good spot for an intimate encounter.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. J CAFÉS Daily Cafe B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 11, tel. 061 852 16 16, www.dailycafe.pl. A small vertical space with white on white colours and some edgy photography to lend life to the pressingly clinical aesthetic. Fashion conscious students and budding young professionals gather here to ponder the universe and fiddle around with mobiles, and the success of Daily is no surprise having sampled their range of smoothies and shakes. Not cheap, but a decent alternative to the ‘visting grandma’ atmosphere you’ll find in most of the old town cafs. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. PSW Fidelio H-3, ul. Garbary 50, tel. 061 852 67 94, www. fidelioristorante.pl. Remember Kubrick’s last film, Eyes Wide Shut? If so Fidelio will ring a bell: that was the password needed before being allowed entry to a rather saucy party. Here Fidelio stands for something else, a Venetian style restaurant where it seems Valentines Day never dies. Fresh seafood, past and pizza are among numerous offerings found on the menu, a cast that’s ably supported by a through wine card. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18-240zł). PTAXS 51 Behemot D-1, ul. Kramarska 16. The cat lovers choice. Pod Pretekstem A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki 79), tel. 061 853 30 47, www.podpretekstem.pl. A quirky café/bar/restaurant situated round the back of the Zamek. Trumpets hang from the ceiling and giant beetles adorn the walls. Art nouveau details abound with several oddities thrown in, and while the staff can frustrate with their mute and meek approach this remains one of the top café bars in the city. Every so often the lights dim and a pianist dressed in a cat black polo neck takes to the stage; worth the visit alone. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEXSW Red Erik Cafe (Dom Vikingów) C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Home to a number of bars, restaurants and cafes the Dom Vikingow complex is a self-contained ex-pat world, with Red Erik the most prominent venue of the lot. Occupying the ground floor this restobar crossover packs out the moment work finishes as off-duty business bods take to the bar to size up the cocktails and impress blonde bargirls with their faltering grasp of the local lingo. Always a smashing night out, with an all-purpose menu that unites dishes from across the world, including curries, wraps, burgers and steaks. Breakfast served each day from 10:00. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (28-72zł). TAEBSW Cafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. 061 851 00 81, www.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of the best in town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a fountain. Indoors the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, and a middle-aged crowd whisper amid flickering candles and bottles of wine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JAEBX 061 851 06 95. A typically Poznonian effort this one. Fruit and veg lie scattered on wood furniture, with pots of flowers and bits of crockery adding to the vaguely rustic ambiance. Edith Piaf makes her presence felt from the speakers, while the grzane piwo (mulled beer) adds a pleasant buzz to frosty afternoons. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. NEW Cafe Lustro Wpomnień C-2, ul. Wrocławska 25, tel. Filigrando Cafe & Lunch C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12 15, www.filigrando.pl. Just as Stary Browar has proved to be much more than a mall Filigrando proves to be much more than a café. Placed in the part that connects the new and old wing of Stary Browar this fancy café isn’t unlike climbing into a wedding cake, what with all the frills and snow white colours. Crammed with bird cages, bits of straw and racks of wine this place is an aesthetic pleasure, and far beyond the café stops usually found in malls. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PTAUEXSW Gong D-2, ul. Wielka 22, tel. 061 852 54 67, www. cafegong.pl. A real oldie this one, and still as popular as ever in spite of an obstinate refusal to renovate the interiors. This was formerly a cinema and Gong keeps the spirit of Hollywood alive with pics of silver screen sirens and film director chairs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. BS Chimera D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 03 17, www.chimera.poznan.pl. Walk past a counter stacked with teas and cakes to take a seat on turquoise coloured furnishings. Spindly plants line the window stills and a strong wine list encourages a middle-aged crowd through the doors. This is one place where smokers are in the minority, and will find themselves banished to a back room.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTJAUBX Kawka D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 852 60 70. A popular spot for afternoon coffee or an after-work beer, the windows here always appear to catch the sunlight. Sporting a style that falls between artsy and rural, Kawka features black-and-white prints, a piano and a cupboard topped with a battered suitacase. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJABS Soho D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 221 70 45, www. cafesoho.pl. A small one-window affair piled with orangeish sofas and armchairs. The artwork on the walls changes regularly: on our visit a quirky photographic homage to the Mini Cooper. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JXSW Stacja (The Station) D-2, ul.Woźna 1 (etrance from ul.Klasztorna), tel. 0 509 50 80 49. Sink into one of the armchairs and enjoy one of Poznań’s best kept secrets. Cluttered with board games and framed pictures expect a murky Krakowian ambience. Clarinets and violins hang from walls, the music is soft and moody and the interior complete with stone cobbles and a street light. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PXS 88. Ulica Żydowska has become the café capital of Poznań, and perched in the middle of it all is this brand new effort. Decorated with fuchsia colours and bursts of greenery this looks set to be just the warming antidote you need after a day spent stepping in melted gunk. Timber touches and a scattering of armchairs add to the magnetic charm.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. AXW NEW 27, www.cardamoncafe.com. A great looking cafe that features Poznan’s best kept toilet, a pair of girls chattering away behind the counter and a frilly Laura Ashley interior; this is the kind of spot you want to visit with only your favourite book for company. Give the food a swerve, it comes straight from the Alabama kitchen (see Where to eat). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTAXW Best known for its fairytale garden Cocorico would still warrant a visit even if sun felt out of the sky. In colder times bolt yourself inside amid a charming topsy-turvy interior heaving with chintz and sepia photographs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. TJAUBXS Cardamon Cafe C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15A, tel. 852 72 Uczta Babette D-1, ul. Żydowska 27/2, tel. 061 855 77 Uczta Babette Cocorico D-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. 061 852 95 29. Cofeel’ya D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 62 19. Lined up like skittles ulica. Żydowska features an outstanding row of café stops and eateries. Cofeel’ya is the youngest of the brood, and comes suitably dressed with a hip, urbane motif accentuated by bright primary colours and chillout tunes. But this place is not just about coffee, with the menu also promising a selection of gourmet teas, cocktails, salads and desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. ASW brick, white walls and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look, and its already done a fair job on roping the customers in. The menu - comprising of salads, snacks and mains like chicken fillet - isn’t the most adventurous you’ll find, but that’s by no means a handicap; what they do, they do well. U Mnie Czy u Ciebie, tel. 061 852 58 82. Lots of bare Weranda D-2, ul. Świętosławska 10, tel. 061 853 25 87. Mercers A-2, ul. Fredry 1, tel. 061 851 31 83, www. Czekolada (The Chocolate) D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 92 91, www.czekoladacafe.pl. A trendy version of Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory. Stark white walls, earth coloured drapes and chill-out tunes generate an edgy atmosphere. The staff are brilliant, the clientele wear black and the toilet has to be the most space-age in Poznań. The menus, attached to big wooden sticks, cover all imagainable chocolate perversions: from chocolate fondue to ‘Mexican chocolate chicken’. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JAS mercerscoffee.pl. When Mercers landed in the capital a few years back it signaled the arrival of modern café culture to Poland. Now you’ll find the same team expanding across Poland, with Poznań emerging as the latest notch on the bedpost. Its diminutive size means that you’ll be scrabbling for seats, but it’s well worth it. This corner street caf rewards with excellent coffees and smoothies, top-to-bottom windows offering views of the world outside and a smattering of sofas and padded armchairs to sink into and let the day dissolve. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAXS The interior, a warm jumble of wooden clutter and soft music, is the ideal space to defrost after braving the nut-numbing cold of al fresco Poland. The menu is worthy of the surrounds; a collection of homemade cakes, pastries, coffees and tea. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TJABXS Zapiecek D-1, ul. Żydowska 10, tel. 061 851 06 50. Do your thawing out inside this home from home. Decorations come in the form of bookcases, roses and a piano, and staff creep around on squeaking floorboards delivering tea, coffee and piping hot beer filled with herbs. The garden in the back will have you counting down for summer to arrive. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BXS Uczta Babette ul. Żydowska 27/2 61-761 Poznań tel. 061-855-77-88 Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 52 NIGHTLIFE In the News Following on from a year that saw Poland win its bid for Euro 2012, general elections, a spate of government scandals and the meltdown of the health service this year has started off as a bit of a damp squib on the headline front. Thank God then that insightful tabloid journalism isn’t exclusive to England alone. Having spotted a shrinkage in the size of actress Malgorzata Kozuchowska’s breasts Super Express continued the noble name of the gutter press by declaring a mass séance praying for a return to their former glory. The paper happily reported a few days later that Gosia’s hooters had been saved, for which we can’t thank them enough. Our In the News column wouldn’t be the same without reporting the imminent demise of some politician or other, and this issue finds the Mayor of Myslowice in the custard. Grzegorz Osyra faces three years in chokey having allegedly faked his own stabbing in order to gain the sympathy of the electorate. Two other master criminals worthy of a mention are a pair of men from Nowy Targ. The lads in question are surely in line for an award for gross stupidity following their bungled effort to slip two tanks past border guards. One story that’s refuses to run out of steam is the case of Simon Mol, a Cameroonian exile who invented a heroic past as a political dissident to bed a string of women. Mol, arrested at the start of 2007, has finally been charged with intentionally infecting 11 women with the HIV virus. Another story that has run into this year is the case of former construction minister Barbara Bilda. An investigation committee has been set up to look into her death after a bungled swoop by anti-corruption officers. Bilda, bizarrely, was allowed to visit her bathroom to brush her teeth, at which point she promptly shot herself in the chest. The public prosecutor has abandoned its investigation into whether or not author Jan Tomasz Gross was guilty of the defamation of the Polish nation. Years after publishing ‘Neighbours’ - a book which examined the complicit involvement of Polish civilians in the WWII massacre of Jews - Gross found himself once more under scrutiny. His latest work ‘Fear: anti-Semitism after Auschwitz’ claims over 2,500 Jews were murdered in Poland after the end of WWII, sparking claims of misrepresentation. Interestingly, the ultra Catholic radio station Radio Maryja responded to the news of the cases collapse by squealing, ‘they are attacking us, so we must defend ourselves. Who is attacking us? The Jews!’ January ended with the news that 20 Polish airmen died as their plane came in to land. The Spanish built CASA CA-215 military transport plane crashed as it made its approach killing all those on board. The crash was the worst in post-war Polish military history and prompted three days of national mourning. The same month saw veteran director Andrzej Wajda’s nominated for an Oscar. His film Katyń, which tells the story of the brutal WWII massacre of Polish officers at the hands of the Soviets, is up for Best Foreign Film. In sport defending football league champions Zaglębie Lubin were sensationally relegated after an FA panel found them guilty of match fixing during their promotion season four seasons back. Lubin officials are set to appeal claiming they are the victims of a witch hunt. We’ll leave you on a cheerful note and the fantastic story of a couple who are heading for the divorce courts after the husband found his wife working in a brothel he frequented. Poznan bars are flexible - no matter what the official closing times are, most bars and pubs will often stay open until the last customer has crawled out. Most night spots are concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego which is is the best street for studenty bars. some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz performing in the past. Do check what’s cooking beforehand mind; this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. AE 94. A great little spot seemingly popular with a well-turned out mid-twenties crowd that’s outgrown the scuzzy student pubs. Low lounge seating, chocolate colours and subdued lighting lend a cool, smooth ambiance to this joint, and back space is home to a wine room. The staff do sometimes get sidetracked by their mates, which can frustrate even the most composed of customers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAB NIGHTLIFE 53 Bars & Pubs 80. While the name suggests you’ll find crowds of intellectual swats you can rest assured that the last thing the students who drink here have on their mind is tomorrows lecture. This is a plain brick cellar with décor limited to wooden benches and promotional bumph announcing the availability of Red Bull and Lech. The juke box seems to play a continuous cycle of Polish pop hits, while the toilet is of the sort that will send you skidding across puddles of urine, your fall broken by the reels of toilet paper sticking to the floor. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. PX Bodega Cafe D-1, ul. Żydowska 4, tel. 061 851 00 Academic Pub B-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. 061 853 69 Agawa E-3, ul. Mickiewicza 28, tel. 061 847 23 27, www.dart.dmf.pl. Darts heaven. Do your drinking inside a colourful environment of plastic trees and orange walls while the thump of darts missing their target sounds off in the background. The backroom here is lined with electronic darts boards, buzzing and whirring furiously as amateur sportsmen practice their noble pursuit. If you’re here for a while then broaden your social horizons by joining one of their leagues. Ask at the bar for details. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PBW Bogota A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki), tel. 061 853 71 33, www.bogotaclub.pl. Bogota? Bog standard, more to the point. This place is as Colombian as your garden shed, with nothing to cheer this bland basement waste other than some token scraps of Aztec art and a collection of uncomfortable benches. At a guess there approximately 100 better bars to visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAX 852 50 73, www.brogans.pl. Somewhere in Ireland, someone is making a vast fortune exporting the junk and trumpery that finds itself in Celt pubs across the world. This basement effort has it all; tankards and mugs hanging above the bar, booth seating and chess boards and whisky bottles spilling from the bookshelves. Superbly atmospheric, Brogan’s has the hazy air of a neighbourhood local, as well as a regular rotation of world beers chalked up on the blackboard: from Lithuania’s excellent Svyturys, to obscure Brit choices like Bishop’s Finger. Pool table outback, and a small TV for the sport. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. PJAEX Brogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. 061 ul. Szewska 20a 61-760 Poznañ www.brogans.pl stairwell this small covert bar has all the trappings of a living room caught in a time warp. Thrift store sofas stand amongst a collection of oddities that range from sewing machines and suitcases, to an imperious-looking bust staring arrogantly forth from the corner of the room. Even the electronic dartboard in the entrance does not detract from this superb bolthole, and it’s primarily a late night studenty crowd who choose to conduct their drinking here. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Awaria A-2, ul. Garncarska 3. Accessed down a steep Bacchus Winiarnia D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 852 02 32, www.bartex.com.pl. A decent choice of world wine inside a tiled interior with fake ivy and a Best of the 80s soundtrack. In a city short on wine bars this place fills the void well. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. AG www.beejays.pl. It could only work in Poznań. Find cherubs, stained glass and bagpipes squeezed amidst flashing disco lights and lairy promotional materials supplied by breweries. By day this place isn’t a bad spot to take your chances on a multi-national menu (see Where to eat), but by night it falls down a couple of notches as it tries to catch the custom of a teenie crowd looking to top-up their alcohol quota before hitting the local clubs. The music is loud, and usually rubbish, but Beejay’s still gets the crowds on account of a good spread of seats, decent drinks (hats off to the man who ordered the Peroni lager) and staff who match centrefold looks with even better smiles. Best of all, if there’s a big match on you’ll catch all the action projected onto a giant screen. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PJAUEBW Bee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73/74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. 061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań’s best beer alongside business travelers talking contracts and native high-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex sirens. Out in the back a large room crammed with copper vats and dials produces the three house beers, while in the front find a modern design that combines steel and glass in tasteful style. Never a quiet night, and definitely a nominee for bar of the year. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJABW Browar Pub C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. A huge drinking complex featuring copper brewing vats, plenty of beer food to line the guts with and the atmosphere of a ribald beer hall. Regular jazz and rock concerts crank the atmosphere right up, and if you don’t want to be running to the bar order one of their private beer taps. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEBW NEW Cactusfactoria D-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. 0 793 00 37 Blue Note A-1, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061 851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it - don’t let that fool you, this venue is a legend, with 16. A multi-level restaurant, bar, club mutant with black/red colours, latin music and some mysterious spongey fabric on the walls outback. Strangely, in spite of being in possession of enough booze to sink the Titanic, they couldn’t fix a margarita; fortunately with staff this stunning it’s a fault that gets quickly overlooked. The upstairs section houses the club, and it’s been known to get pretty lively come the weekend. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00. AU Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 54 NIGHTLIFE Euro 2012 A few months back In Your Pocket’s panel of football experts were roaring with laughter at Poland’s optimistic bid to co-host footballs 2012 European Championship. Who looks stupid now. On April 18, 2007 Michel Platini announced Uefa’s shock decision to award Poland and Ukraine the championship, scuppering Italy’s hopes of hosting the tournament in the process. The news marks a remarkable change of fortunes for Polish football. Off the pitch footballs governing body, FIFA, came within a whisker of suspending Poland from international competition following allegations of match fixing and corruption, this doomsday scenario only averted as late as February. Meanwhile on the field Dutch tactician Leo Beenhakker has masterminded a successful qualification campaign for Euro 2008, the Poles finishing top of their group to qualify for the finals held in Switzerland and Austria. Games in 2012 are due to be stage in Warsaw, Gdańsk, Poznań and Wrocław with an estimated 20 billion Euro to be spent on upgrading infrastructure and stadia. The capital will host both the opening game and a semi-final, with a new national stadium holding 70,000 planned on the site of Warsaw’s legendary Russian Market. Wrocław too will be getting a new stadium, this one holding 44,000 people. Perhaps the least likely candidate for games is Gdańsk, with the 44,000 seater Baltic Arena pencilled for completion in 2010. Surprisingly Kraków, Poland’s most high profile destination and the one most geared towards a mass influx of foreigners was left off the list, though they’ve been earmarked as a substitute city should other stadia not be finished in time, an honour also bestowed on the current national stadium in Chorzów. It’s more than possible that these Plan B options will be used - Poland faces high labour shortages following EU accession, and the lack of skilled construction workers has led to all manner of harebrained schemes being proposed. Topping the lot is deputy prisons chief Paweł Nasiłowski’s offer to provide 20,000 jail birds to help in the construction program. Declaring that prisoners could travel to the projects in huge convoy under armed guard his offer is being seriously considered. Although prisoners have been used for years in community projects the idea has already proved the source of heated debate. So what of Poznań? Approximately 8,000 hotel rooms are set to be added, while work to modernize both roads and airport will also be launched. The current home of the local team, Lech, will see its capacity increased to hold 46,500, with work due to be completed by 2010. NIGHTLIFE Café Plotka D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 19 33, www.plotka.poznan.pl. Framed pictures of ducks sit alongside china plates and other associated frilly extras. We’re undecided whether this is a bar or a café - the chocolate cakes standing on the corner suggest the former, the giggling gangs of middle-aged girls on the razzle suggest the latter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. JA Corner Pub A-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. 061 633 23 32, www.corner-pub.pl. Another student zone where the youth of tomorrow gather to drink away memories of the week that wasn’t. The name is as inspirational as the interiors, though that does nothing to harm the popularity of this cellar joint. DJs playing chart classics regularly have the foundations shaking. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00. PUB NEW 55 Eskulap ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 061 665 88 02, www.eskulap.art.pl. A cult venue with something always going on. There’s plenty of live acts, concerts and DJs entering the fray here, while Thursday’s are Quentin Tarantino nights. It’s not much design-wise by any means, but this is definitely one of the more lively nights to be found. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AW 57, www.fashioncafe.pl. Huge windows that hoist away in the summer generate an airy ambience, though you’ll find the sorbet red sofas next to them permanently occupied by dipsticks with Bluetooth gadgetry, and cigarette slim beauties dressed in skirts that do little to conceal the underwear. A square shaped illuminated bar takes centre stage, and a profusion of mirrors abound, allowing plenty of opportunity to catch foxes and dogs alike discreetly checking their reflection. This is Las Vegas on the cheap, complete with chandeliers dripping with red baubles and cocktails that sport all the colours of the rainbow. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABW C-2, ul. Św Marcin 9, tel. 061 852 67 23, www.fontannaczekolady.pl. The tunnel-shaped Fontanna looks like it never ends. It does, in fact, usually the moment you collide with the full length mirror standing at the end of the bar. There’s a distinctly retro aesthetic here and all the purple sofas, dimmed lighting and chandeliers hark back to the days of Boogie Nights excess. A good pre-club stop, affirmed by the presence of the night vamps casting dismissive looks at the fatties beaming down from Fashion TV. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PABX Fashion Cafe C-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. 061 855 75 Coxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74. Expat owned and run Coxy’s looks set to become the official hangout of the Poznan In Your Pocket staff. As the framed football shirts suggest, this place is a sporting heaven with three plasmas tuned to Sky Sports and a crowd of lubricated regulars urging their side on. An open kitchen is the source of steaks and fryups, while the downstairs area has been known to transform into a dance area. Keeping an eye on it all is the manager Owen, a Canterbury lad following in the noble tradition of the Great British Landlord. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PEB Fontanna Czekolady (The Chocolate’s Fountain) niecka 18 (entrance on ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwony-fortepian.pl. An upscale restaurant and bar that markets itself as the classiest jazz joint in town - which might account for the snidey, snooty attitude of your waiter. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a private club, and the Red Piano draws a formal crowd of serious music enthusiasts.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PJAEW Czerwony Fortepian (The Red Piano) D-1, ul. Wro- Déja Vu Café D-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. 0 502 03 38 87. If you’ve got an aversion to students then you may want to avoid this place altogether. There’s a series of rooms, with nothing to distinguish one from the other, though drinks promotions keep them simmering with noise at all hours. Boozy, basic and a hangover guaranteed. QOpen 9:30 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. JB 51 17. Expect a cacophony of noise the moment the local football side are beamed onto the plasma screen. This is your traditional sports pub effort, with generous benched booths, posters of frothing beer mugs and photographs of footballs finest amphitheatres. Brass lamps and Lech Poznań scarves hang from newly varnished surfaces, and even the dominance of Warka sponsored furnishings fails to cool the bubbling atmosphere. No Sky Sports, but you can catch English league action on the Canal Plus channel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAB Fort Colomb A-3, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. 0 601 55 02 35, www.fortcolomb.pl. An old brick fortress-cum pub found in Park Marcinkowskiego. The interior is standard: exposed brick, local radio for music. Be wary, this spot is a favourite with unsavoury lads wearing World Gym t-shirts and practising hard man stares. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. EB Fuego C-2, Stary Rynek 25, tel. 061 851 88 02. Come for a bit of sexual healing inside this salmon pink old town bar. R&B tunes provide the backing sounds, while an interior of stripey chairs, wrought iron and an even a teddy bar perched on the bar steadily fills with young couples on first dates. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JAB NEW Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 Dragon C-1, ul. Zamkowa 3, tel. 061 853 08 19, www. dragon.krzyk.pl. If you meet any shell-shocked expats who look like they’ve just tumbled out of bed a minute earlier the chances are you’ll soon find them mumbling something about being ‘dragoned’. That’s local lexicon for getting completely trousered in one of the best bars in Poz. Frequented by allnight weirdoes Dragon is all reject furniture, steel mesh imbedded into peeling plaster walls and the bracing smell of spillage and smoke. Artsy films and visuals come projected onto the walls while stoned dropouts form human pyramids on jumble sale sofas. Overlooking the bedlam is a dragons head bursting out from above the bar area. Priceless. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. JAEBW Poznań In Your Pocket www.habanarestaurant.pl. Full of mirrored decoys, padded satin walls and extravagant arched windows this place certainly looks the part. It looks rich and classy, words that can be applied to the patrons as well. The booze list has clearly been given a lot of thought, and the drinks selection is possibly the best in Poz; we can recommend the Havana Lady Special, a gorgeous cocktail that slips down in one gulp. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUW Habana C- 2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 853 02 22, Hipokryzja (The Hypocrisy) D-1, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. 061 853 32 50. A voluptuous venue where everything comes bathed in rich crimson shades and the dim flicker of tea candles. Smokers get shunted up the stairs on the top floor, in a large room decked out with dark woods, brass pots and assorted shrubbery, while a great selection of chillout tunes help complete the effortless transition of day into night. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. PAUX March - June 2008 56 NIGHTLIFE Krzysztof Komeda (1931-1969) Born in Poznań, 1931, Krzysztof Komeda stands out as one of Poland’s finest music talents, and remains, even in death, a source of inspiration. He studied piano from an early age, and was inducted into Poznań’s conservatory in 1939. Though the war disrupted his studies it is also credited with landing him his name. Born Krzysztof Trzciński he found himself nicknamed Komeda after scrawling the word on a wall – he had meant to write ‘komenda’ (as in command post) – while playing with his mates. The local partisans had a good laugh over it and from there the name stuck. With the war over he resumed his musical aspirations and started playing in the subterranean jazz dens of Kraków. He juggled his burgeoning musical career with a job at a health clinic, and it was here his pseudonym took root; keen to hide his nocturnal life from his employees he started performing under the name Krzysztof Komeda. His band scored success at the 1956 Sopot Music Festival, and he re-christened his charges the Krzysztof Komeda quartet. They became the first Polish band to play modern jazz, and his spoken poetry won fans far and wide. He started collaborating with film directors and wrote scores for Roman Polanski’s classics Knife in the Water and Rosemary’s Baby among numerous others. Like all the greats his death is shrouded in mystery; some claim a car accident in LA, others a mountain fall, while Roman Polaśki claims it was during a drunken grappling bout with writer Marek Hłasko. The truth will never be known. Credited with influencing a whole generation he stands out as one of the immortals of Polish music, and his memory is honoured by the annual Komeda Jazz Festival in Słupsk. NIGHTLIFE Johnny Rocker D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 853 62 NEW 57 32, www.johnnyrocker.pl. Step into Johnny Rocker and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve inadvertently entered a warehouse, what with all the barrels, pipes, tubes and dials. Worry not, take the metal stairs and follow the noise coming from the basement and you’ll locate Poznan’s best worst kept secret. Decked out in neo-industrial fashion this labyrinthine cellar comes with bits of metal hanging from the walls, a crow standing behind the bar and posters advertising avant-garde drum workshops. Add to this a staunch commitment to rock music and whisky paraphernalia and it’s almost possible to imagine that fella from Guns’n’Roses walking in with his top hat and snake. Our favourite detail: the blokes toilet, where pictures of women holding tape measures stare directly at nervous lads using the urinal. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAE www.kultowa.pl. An urbane pre-club bar aimed at a twenty something audience. The interior is black and modern, and finding seats can pose a challenge come the weekend. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PE Kultowa C-3, ul. Wrocławska 16, tel. 061 855 75 52, Wojtek the Bear Fond of a bevvy and a fag Wojtek’s habits weren’t too different from your typical soldier, but typical he most certainly wasn’t. Private Wojtek of the 22nd Polish Artillery Supply Company was actually a six-foot Syrian brown bear who served alongside Polish soldiers during the 1944 Battle of Monte Cassino. Now, 45 years after his death, he finds himself once more in the headlines as a campaign to have a monument honoring his life gathers pace. So what’s his story then. He joined the unit in 1943 as Polish troops advanced into Palestine. Accounts differ how the soldiers came upon him, though it’s understood he was adopted as a homeless cub and weaned on condensed milk poured from a vodka bottle. Affectionately christened Wojtek he slept and worked alongside the men, helping in the transport of live shells and boxes of ammunition to artillery positions. Fed on a diet of marmalade and honey it wasn’t long before Wojtek started assuming human traits, including the love of a smoke and a beer – his rewards for a good day’s work. More than just a mascot Wojtek became a reliable member of his unit, mastering the controls of the shower hut, and once allegedly capturing an Arab spy hiding in the camp. With his unit reassigned to serve in the Italian campaign the soldiers faced the prospect of losing a loyal and valued comrade. The only loophole was to enlist him, and so it was Wojtek was entered into the Polish army, complete with name, number, identity and ration papers. His unit was deployed to Monte Cassino, and handed the unenviable task of resupplying Allied troops pinned down by German gunfire. It was in these hellish conditions Wojtek earned his spurs, never once dropping a shell. His bravery was recognized by high command who changed the insignia of the 22nd Company to depict a bear carrying crates of ammo. By all accounts Wojtek was a bit of a social animal; during breaks in combat he would wrestle with his Polish mates, often clamping their heads in his jaws. He was a voracious tea drinker, sometimes taking his brew with a nip of vodka, and nor was he averse to clandestine raids on the field canteen. Come the end of the war the company was redeployed to Berwickshire in Scotland, and it didn’t take long for the legend of Wojtek to spread. Local farmhand Jock Pringle recalls his run-ins with the soldier bear: ‘He had two bottles of beer a day and loved a fag, though it had to be lit for him. If it wasn’t lit he’d spit it back out on his paws. He’d have one puff and then swallow it.’ Finally, in 1947, his unit was demobilized, and Wojtek was placed in the care of Edinburgh Zoo where he became a cult attraction. His former comrades would occasionally visit him, flinging cigarettes his way, conversing in Polish to him, and even jumping into his enclosure to grapple with their old friend. Although the subject of a book and memorial following his death in 1963 Wojtek’s memory had been in danger of fading. That was until this year when he hit the headlines once more. Edinburgh locals are campaigning for a memorial to go up in his honour, while a new book and documentary about his life are due to be released shortly. This time round it looks like his legacy is here to stay. Lizard King C-1, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72, www.lizardking.pl. It’s not unlikely you’ll hear the live bands from the other side of the Rynek - this is rock star heaven, where the cocktails have names like Dylan and Cocker, and the toilet is accessed by stepping through a cello. Vinyl discs and brass instruments adorn the wall space, while lighting rigs hang from the ceilings, ready to beam onto the cover acts who play most evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAE Kamea D-1, ul. Żydowska 2/3, tel. 061 851 72 11, www.kamea.poznan.pl. A genuine labour of love, this gallery-cum-bar is filled with jazzy sounds, vases of flowers and wooden cupboards. Sink into one of the leather armchairs and admire the artwork hanging from the walls, or choose from one of the largest cocktail lists in the city. Often empty, but never disappointing.QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PJAUEX Lobby Bar Pl. Andersa 3 (Andersia Hotel), tel. 061 850 52 69, www.andersiahotel.pl. Relive the glory days of Hasselhoff inside Hotel Andersia’s glitzy ground floor drinkery. Take to one of the swivelly chairs that surround the black marble bar, or else repair to the white poufs lurking in the corners. Filled with mirrored strips and neon dashes this bar works surprisingly well, feeling cosmopolitan as opposed to outdated. Clubby tunes get piped from invisible speakers, while a supremely personable bar tender fixes cocktails with all the skill of an alchemist. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PA Londoner Pub C-1, Stary Rynek 90. Our lingering impression was the toilet; broken on our visit, and home to an unforgettable sight we would have rather avoided. You learn to expect the unexpected in Londoner, this is after all a bar where a small hatchway opens into a tourist information point, and decorations include an endless list of useless junk; the further you penetrate the more surreal your journey becomes, with gramophones, a model goat and other oddities taking up all viable space. And just to confound us further, we asked for a Kilkenny and were presented with something that looked like ice cream. Utterly loveable and a must visit curiosity.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. J Ghosts! Those foolhardy enough to face the supernatural should consider a spot of ghost hunting. The former Royal Castle (C-1, Góra Przemysła) is the place you need to head too after dark. It’s here you may have the surprise of spotting ‘the white lady’, Ludgarda, the wife of Duke Przemysł II. Allegedly murdered in her bathtub by servants in 1283, some stories claim her death was ordered at the behest of her husband. Nowadays her ghost is said to roam what remains of the castle, sometimes with the figure of a ‘black knight’ next to her, apparently a man who was spotted crying at her funeral. There’s more chance to see phantoms if you head outside Poznań. Take for example the story of Halszka, a woman kept captive in a tower by her jealous husband. Forced to wear an iron mask during her fleeting trips to mass she ended her days insane, and nowadays her demented wailings can be heard haunting the tower of Szamotułchy Castle 30 kilometres north west of Poznań. Finally, check out Łagów Castle halfway between Poz and Berlin. The ghost first – the spooky likeness of former castle commander Andreas von Schlieben was first spotted in 1820 when the president of the Poznań Treasury saw the ghostly shape of the knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. Since then he’s been spotted several times since; though only in spring and summer, and only by men. Best of all though, the castle is now a hotel, and weird guests even have the choice of opting for a night in the ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed this is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunky manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits and pieces. Kisielice B-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. 061 665 84 84, www.kisielice.com. A one in a million haven of individuality, the K Hole is possibly Poznań’s best known bar, and certainly its best. The crowd comprises of a cross section of social dropouts, to a man waiting on a book deal, record contract or exam results, while the music policy is completely bonkers; anything obscure will get airtime here. The Warholesque interior is the perfect backdrop for the permissive behaviour that is expected at nightfall, with staff matching customers shot for shot into the daft, murky hours. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. E Klepsydra (The Hourglass) D-2, ul. Paderewskiego 11, tel. 061 852 15 39. A second-floor bar with a cut-price menu and ghastly decorations that sit awkwardly alongside a traditional wood-carved bar and ceiling paintings of old Poznań. A plague of plantlife hinders the views of the old town, and as the sign pinned outside affirms, don’t be alarmed to find people engaged in the dubious pleasures of karaoke. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PJBX Klub Galeria Shisha A-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. 0 500 37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. On the Taczaka pub crawl route, so find plenty of students zig-zagging around this Egyptian-themed haunt. Wall-paintings of falcon-winged gods and pharaohs keep an eye on the fun, with a series of hookah pipes to cloud the evening. Take to the cream leather armchairs to make the most of the spaced out atmosphere. A great detour to the one dimensional spit and sawdust atmosphere of the nearby beer halls. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. P Malibu Bar C-2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. 061 852 45 86, www.malibubar.pl. Shock white colour schemes have punters reaching for their shades, and this place is definitely aimed at the ‘sunglasses at night’ crowd. It takes about ten people to fill the dance floor, so don’t be surprised to find the local Playboy bunnies dancing around the tables - sometimes on them. A couple of back rooms come stuffed with bright orange ottomans, though the overriding impression is one of stark minimalism. But the really good news here are the cocktails; the cranberry cooler is outstanding, while the AK47 (comprised of vodka, rum, gin, whisky, tequila and triple sec) could kill a rhino. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PABW NEW www.klubzak.pl. Book readings, film screenings, ar t exhibitions, sports screenings and ribald revelry make Zak somewhat of a winner on Poznań’s student circuit. Bricks, benches and wood are the interior ingredients, and the live music includes jazz, blues and folk tunes, all lapped up by a crowds of drinkers lost in the fog of smoke. Traditional pubs sports like table football and darts encourage displays of one-upmanship. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAE Klub Zak D-1, ul. Szyperska 2, tel. 061 855 34 83, moodclub.pl. Poznan’s principal shopping street doesn’t have much in the way of boozing option so it’s no surprise to find Mood so busy. Set down a courtyard this place has been given a red and green appearance, as well as a mural of a pelican and blades of grass lining the wall. The club upstairs gets rammed at the weekend, and is well worth checking out in its own right. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PABXW Mood C-3, ul. Pólwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www. Muchos Patatos D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 851 91 73, www.muchos.pl. Adobe coloured walls come decorated with tile-shard mosaics and as evenings progress a lively student crowd squeeze in to party like there’s no manana to a background of salsa and Latin rhythms, strong shots of tequila encouraging never-before-attempted dance moves. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Wed 18:00 - 02:00, Thu 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PA Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 58 NIGHTLIFE Local football - Lech Poznań Like all sensible nations Poland is a football country, and the fans don’t get more passionate than the ones down at the local side Lech Poznań. Their trophy cabinet might have more cobwebs than cups but that doesn’t stop the fans from turning up – while Legia Warszawa and Wisła Kraków stake claim to be the biggest club in the country it’s actually little Lech who get the highest crowds – 19,000 on average, a few thousand ahead of their nearest rivals. Playing in their trademark colours of blue and white Lech kicked their first ball in 1922, and through their history have had close affiliations with the state railway company – hence their nickname, The Railwaymen. Glory days have been few and far between, the clubs heyday lasting from 1983-1993, during which spell they won five league titles. It’s not rare to find veteran fans reminiscing about those heady days in the pubs of Poznań, with a particularly favourite story being their epic clash against Barcelona in the 1989 Cup Winners’ Cup. Poznań lost, on penalties, but the memories linger and the mere mention of this game is a failsafe way of avoiding a kicking. Since then silverware has largely eluded Lech, though the Polish Cup was added to the boardroom in 2004. And things are definitely looking up this season. Positioned third at the start of the annual winter break Poznań will be looking to maintain their form when the season resumes, though any talk of winning the title will have the loony police kicking your door down at dawn. Wisła Kraków are running away with the title this season, and stand fourteen points clear of Lech. Don’t let that stop you taking in a game; ticket cost 25-45zł and are available from the stadium box office at ul. Bułgarska 5/7. Stand warned, while Polish football claims to be winning the fight against hooliganism you may want to avoid the chances of a lively encounter with Lech’s more passionate supporters – do so by getting one of the more pricey seats. The stadium itself dates from 1980, and following a revamp in 2002 it is now one of the most modern in Poland. Further improvements are due as the club gears up for Euro 2012 and capacity is expected to be increased from 24,166 to 44,000. Remaining home games are as follows, though be aware kick off times and dates may change according to the demands of the TV lot. Mar 15 v Wisła Kraków Apr 5 v Odra Wodzisław Apr 19 v Dyskobolia Grodzisk May 3 v Jagiellonia Białystok May 10 v ŁKS Łódź NIGHTLIFE Piano Bar C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.slodownia.pl. The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEBW 59 Wine Vinoteka la Bodega D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 92 (entrance from ul. Wroniecka), tel. 061 853 65 97, www.bodega.pl. Poznań’s wine lovers finally have a home to go to in this sleek bar stroke shop. Fitted out in pale blond colours Bodega has been cleverly decorated with corks hanging by the windows and upturned wine glasses dangling from the ceilings. The wine offer is first rate and includes a number of new world wines as well as more standard bottles, and your tipple of choice comes served either by the glass or by the bottle. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAEBXW Sami Swoi C-2, Stary Rynek 99/100, tel. 061 855 21 65, www.samiswoi-klub.com. From the outside Sami Swoi appears to be a traditional restaurant, filled with stripey wallpaper, oil paintings and other prim touches. And while you can eat here this place packs out primarily with a young, noisy crowd looking to drink into the next day. Don’t be startled to hear the local karaoke kings doing their party pieces. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. PJAXW Sarp D-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. 061 853 24 64, www. jazzsarp.pl. Matalan don’t do bars, but if they did it’d surely look something like this. Everything in this overwhelmingly orange venue looks flimsy and plastic, while the staff desperately need to swat up on their cocktail knowledge; asking what goes into a White Russian is bad enough, using UVH milk to then make it criminal. On the plus side the aforementioned staff more than make up for it with vampish looks, and the jazz performances can be cracking.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. E chic designer space with a sparkling bar that wondrously seems to spread from floor to ceiling. Find sexy bedroom music, stick thin girls and salmon walls inside this cracking split level venue. Face police work the door, so dress accordingly. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JABW Pod Minogą B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 79 22, www.minoga.net. Once fabulously dog-eared this local legend has seen the decorators in with its disheveled decor replaced by a brick bar, industrial steel lights and floorboards that no longer squeak. The clientele remains the same - Boho types with berets balanced on their heads and cigarettes glued to their fingers - enjoying one of the most experimental music policies you’ll find. The dark crimson walls and battered piano that hangs precariously above the bar are in keeping with Pod Minogą’s artsy heritage. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 09:00. PAB Post Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. 061 855 21 03. Open from eight till late Post Dali is the final word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing of those who visit; our notes from our visit being little more than scribbles that suggest a good time was had. There’s a few points to set it aside from the competition, the first being it’s sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenth and eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views that stretch across the city. House and Electro sounds keep the party going till memory fades, with a committed crowd lapping up the mayhem that ensues. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PREX www.proletaryat.pl. From the moment you pass the giant bust of Lenin standing in the window, entering this commie theme park is like stepping into socialist paradise. Drink quality local brews while Soviet military bands strike up from the speakers and portraits of Comrade Stalin stare down at you. Always cloaked in stinging smoke, this is your most eccentric drinking option in a town not short of oddities. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. PJAEW 851 05 40. Find Poznań’s jazz fans slumming it inside a grubby space that transforms as night draws in. During daylight hours this place assumes the look of a bare college common room, complete with tatty posters and tables scattered at random. Once evening settles Puzon takes on a pleasing red glow as the tables fill with students aspiring to musical greatness. Check ahead to see when the bands are next playing. QOpen 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JABX Proletaryat D-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. 0 508 17 36 08, Shark C-1, Stary Rynek 48, tel. 061 851 94 80. A Puzon (The Trombone) C-2, Stary Rynek 9/10, tel. 061 Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton, and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or while counting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens. The staff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best mojito we’ve found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to let you leave until you’ve tried one too many of their lethal vodkas. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUEW Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32 24, www.room55.pl. On the ground floor find a decent bar where the business world meet for after work drinks, as well as an overpriced menu presented by scurrying blondes. Head downstairs to see where the crowd moves when it gets to the business end of the night. Find a long cellar bar with wooden barrels to park yourself on, and enough space to impress with your dance trickery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJABW SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton. pl/poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to your parallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décor featuring all the Route 66 extras and rock’n’roll pics. Setting it aside are Sky Sports, Poznań’s best burger and a line up of live music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurry conclusion. Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of the best in the business, and while SPE is not a cheap night a trip here is just the medicine if you’ve had one of those days where you’re tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland.QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW Sports Bar (Dom Vikingów) C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Find Poznan’s original sports bar spread over a couple of floors, each corner equipped with TVs belting out Sky Sports for the Brit lads, and Polish cable for when the Lech Poznan team pop in for a pint. The menu suits the mood with decent booze bites like steak and chips available. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Fri 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. ABW March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 60 NIGHTLIFE The Dubliner A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance from Al. Niepodległości), tel. 061 851 01 69, www. dubliner.com.pl. Surely a bidder for the title of largest pub in town. Accommodated inside the basement of the Zamek building The Dubliner features stained glass windows, a model train circling around the bar and walls painted to feign the effects of years of tobacco smoke. This is a clinical attempt to transport Ireland to Poland, with little of the atmosphere and intimacy found in rival Celt pub, Brogan’s. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAEB The Fire Place Lounge E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www. sheraton.pl/poznan. A tiny side room of the Sheraton houses this gem, where curvy seating is complimented by violet dashes, mirrors and dark polished woods. It’s completely luxurious, and the presence of a roaring fireplace makes it highly tempting to open a book and forget any looming appointments. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUEW U Honzika B-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. 0 504 03 72 19. The exterior does little to suggest this place is anything more than a seedy basement bar, but don’t let that bar your entry, this is where you’ll currently find the In Your Pocket staff doing their drinking. Poznań’s first Czech pub comes with tobacco stained walls lined with football shirts and pennants, as well as sepia photographs of the Zlatopramen brewery in its early incarnation. That’s the beer you’ll find served on tap, though the fridges by the cramped bar area come filled to bursting with other hard-to-find brews, including bottled lagers from Lithuania and the Ukraine. As if things couldn’t get any better there’s a few boxes of Camel cigarettes to smoke through. Either stand shoulder to shoulder with the students at the bar, or penetrate the back room to sit on rough cut wooden stools while acoustic guitar noise pipes from the speakers. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PXW 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterranean tunnel shaped bar, boasting what is apparently the largest collection of whisky in the country. Found inside the guts of the Dom Vikingów complex Whisky Bar comes replete with a polished wooden fittings, and staff who can confidently talk you through the enormous choice of drinks on offer. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AEB NIGHTLIFE Clubs NEW 61 57, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set in a dark courtyard basement Cuba Libre is a bouncing Latin venue with all the requisite pics of Che, and cheerful orange lighting casting down on the crowds. Friday and Saturday are home to disco Latino nights, though if you’ve got two left feet consider attending their salsa and samba classes held earlier in the week. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. R Cuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 852 31 Cute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. 061 851 91 37, www. cute.poznan.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellar Cute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which to the rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are way too cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to the dance floor while reclining from the safety of the red leather ottomans and sofas. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty, adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAEB DV Club (Dom Vikingów) C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. An upmarket cellar bar beneath Dom Vikingów, where monied expats try their faltering Polish on local blondynkas. A spotless wooden interior is livened with token rustic junk and a unicycle nailed to the wall. As the flashing disco light suggests, you’ll find the occasional DJ taking to the decks and playing the crowd. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAEBW Emforiu D-1, ul. Kramarska 18, tel. 060 179 45 58, www. emforiu.pl. Although it helps to have pneumatic breasts and an expensive wardrobe Poznań’s latest headline grabber is open to all; from local big shots to students pooling their coins together for a lager. A glowing dance floor pulsates with rainbow lights while local DJs serve up a feast of house noise to the mass of wriggling bodies. It’s a clever set up here, with plenty of red vinyl, stark hospital white colours and revolving disco balls creating a great backdrop for the weekend excess that awaits. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PE IQ C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 851 06 22, www.iqclub.pl. A tunnel-like cellar club with a reddish glow, and plenty of smoke and sweat. It’s utterly basic, but the clientele are heavily committed to dancing into the early hours to some of Poland’s biggest names in trance, techno and oldskool hardcore. This place is about having a good time, not mincing around in designer tags. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. JE Klub Charyzma (The Charisma Club) D-2, ul. Ślusarska 6, tel. 061 851 79 48, www.charyzma.poznan. pl. A concrete and steel design is made palatable by some sloppy attempts at modern art (mannequin limbs sticking out from air vents). It’s big, it’s brash and it’s popularity is guaranteed to baffle. You’ll find a small army of girls with pointy shoes flaunting their qualities and entertaining their young Polish suitors. Music from the 80s/90s. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEW Poles you should know If you’ve travelled around Australia the name of Count Paweł Edmund Strzelecki might already be familiar, he has after all given his name to various peaks, ranges, lakes, highways, and deserts – ten in total, and even a harbour in Canada for good measure. Born in Głuszyna, near Poznań, in 1797 he was the son of landed gentry, though the history books suggest he only assumed the Count part to his title when he arrived in Australia years later. He entered the Prussian army aged 21 but often fell foul of their strict discipline. A doomed elopement with a 15 year old girl forced him into flight from the vicinity of Poznań, though it was only the outbreak of the 1830 anti-Tsarist rebellion that saw him flee Poland for good. In 1834 he sailed from Liverpool to New York, travelling widely around the Americas. He eventually landed on Ozzie shores in 1839 whereupon he was commissioned to conduct geological studies of Gippsland, east Victoria. He became the first man to discover gold in Australia, though he was advised to keep this top secret for fear of sparking a chaotic gold rush. Other adventures saw him climbing the highest peak in Australia, which he named in honour of Polish revolutionary Tadeusz Kosciuszko. His travels saw him come close to death by starvation, a fate only averted by his trust in Charley, his faithful Aborginal scout. He returned to London in 1849 where he was made a Fellow of the Royal Geopgraphical Society and lived out the rest of his days as a keen supporter of Irish Famine Relief, as well as, inspired by his personal friend Florence Nightingale, helping soldiers injured during the Crimean War. Whisky Bar (Dom Vikingów) C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. W Starym Kinie (In The Old Cinema) B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 22 41, www.wstarymkinie.pl. Out front pub poets and film buffs sit within plum coloured walls, eyeing decorations that include film reels, projectors and cinema seats. Any overspill gets lumped in the powder blue back room, where only a few token posters cheer up a rather lonely looking space. Regular screenings of cult classics attract a crowd of budding film critics. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 13:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AEBW 24, tel. 061 853 23 97. Embedded in local folklore, Za Kulisami is a drinking institution. The scraps of faded paper behind the bar are travelers notes from the days before Skype - remember them - and the shelves groan under the weight of broken-spined books and Paddington Bear style suitcases. Inside the gloom and plumes of smoke a crowd of all extractions congregate to drink amid cow skins and empty birdcages. This is drinking the way the gods would have wanted. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. J Za Kulisami (Behind The Backstage) D-2, ul. Wodna Morphine C-2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. 061 855 40 06. The owners appear to have plumped for an urban, designer aesthetic, failing heroically in the process. The metal framed seats are as uncomfortable as they appear, obviously designed for waists which have never seen a kebab, the glass tables wobble, and the windows are blocked off with orange bits and pieces. On our visit the music was dancey remixes of George Michael and Madonna, though that didn’t deter the crowd of hipsters oblivious to the arsenal of better choices found within walking distance. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. JAE Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 62 NIGHTLIFE Sansibar D-2, ul. Wodna 12, tel. 0 514 97 76 08, www. sansibar.pl. It would have been hard to believe a few years ago but Poznań’s club scene now offers plenty more than brick rooms playing chart hits to tracksuited beer monsters. Sansibar is another great addition with a music policy of house, funk, disco and latino grooves. The minimalist interior is all white and purple dashes, with some great wallpapered alcoves complete with beige leather poufs. See and be seen. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJA sqklub.pl. Inside the basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre, descend the stairs and smell the money. Be warned, unless you’re dressed to the nines you will be treated by the door staff like an escaped pervert. B-List celebrities make this Poznań’s club of the year. The interior is nothing above mediocre with the usual chrome and dark reds smattered around the main room, but their club nights are the stuff legend and should top any list you have. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAE WHAT TO SEE Essential Poznań Part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly wondering the network of streets and alleyways, making chance discoveries of from one turn to the next. That said there are a number of must-see sights that should not be left to chance. Your natural start point should by the main square, the glorious Rynek. Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2, Stary Rynek 1). Today it houses the Historical Museum of Poznań. Other museums you’ll find in the square include the Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, Stary Rynek 84), which honours one of Poland’s best known authors, the Musical Instruments Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47), the Military Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9), and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary Rynek 3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising. Other museums of note in the city include the excellent Archeological Museum (D-2, ul. Wodna 27) whose collection includes Egyptian mummies and obelisks and charts life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al. Marcinkowskiego 9), and don’t miss a visit to the Poznań Model (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2). Churches are omnipresent, no more so than on Ostrów Tumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral (Ostrów Tumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. Trek back to the old town though to find Poznań’s most impressive church: that of St Stanislaus (C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1). Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit to the former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum, Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly more uplifting is the Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel), which aside from boasting displays of modern military hardware documents the defence of Poznań in 1939. 63 Essential Poznan Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 856 81 91, w w w.mnp.ar t.pl/ oddz3.html. First built at the beginning of the 14th century, the seat of Poznań’s municipal authorities was rebuilt following the great fire of 1536. I talian archi te ct, Giovanni Quadro of Lugano, was commissioned to oversee the reconstruction, and a renaissance loggia and attic were added, offset by a classical tower. Once revered Lena Wachacka as the most beautiful Town hall building north of the Alps, the town hall has been beset by a catalogue of disasters. A fire in 1675, a hurricane in 1725 and then bomb damage during WWII mean that little of the original structure remains. The oldest surviving parts are the cellars with their earlyGothic cross-vaulted ceilings. Today it houses the Historical Museum of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures from mythology. The crowds you’ll see gathering outside the building at noon are waiting for the two mechanical billy goats to emerge. On Sundays and holidays, a bugle call also comes from the tower; legend has it that a town-hall bugler took care of the King of Ravens, and in return the birds helped to save the city during a siege. Directly outside the town hall is a whipping post, dating from 1535. It was here that miscreants were whipped, executed or led to the city boundaries before being banished from Poznań. The figure standing on top depicts the executioner of Poznań, and funds for the statue were raised from fines levied on maids who would dress above their station. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. AdmisPillory A. Webber sion 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Old Town Hall (Ratus z) C-2, SQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 65 78, www. ul. Kramarska 18 www.emforiu.pl tel. +48 601 794 558 Tapas D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www. tapas.pl. A design masterstroke, the hi-tech interior is quite unlike any thing Poznań has seen before. Full of glass flooring, shimmery baubles and mosaic surfaces the Tapas Club is a futuristic space, and decorated with suggestive scarlet and granite black colours. Also, a roped off VIP section as well as staff capable of creating the right cocktails for the right moment. House music every Friday, and tracks from the 60s, 70s and 80s on Saturday’s. QOpen, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJABW D-1, ul. Mokra 7, tel. 061 853 02 92, www.klubterytorium.pl. Drink warm bottled beer alongside overgrown kids who don’t know better. Outside the neon sign outside seems to suggest a Parisian cabaret, though that illusion fades on entry. Cobbled flooring and a vast bar are the lasting memory, and don’t be surprised to find drunk lads blocking up the toilets making philosophical observations over which girls they’d like to take home. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. PA NEW Terytorium Goats The crowd you see outside the Old town Hall just before noon each day is waiting for the goats to appear. At 12:00 precisely, the two tin creatures appear from a door in the façade and butt heads a dozen times. The first goats were installed in 1551 by Bartłomiej of Gubin, and over the years have been restored and replaced. The present goats date from 1954. The legend goes as follows: when the clock was unveiled in 1511, it was to be shown off to the governor of the Poznań province. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast burnt the venison. Panicking, he went out and stole a pair of goats to cook instead. But they escaped to the City Hall tower where the bemused guests saw them butting heads up on a ledge. The governor was delighted by the spectacle and whimsically decreed that mechanical goats be added to the clock. The fate of the cook remains a mystery, though the chances are he would have been tied up to the whipping post directly outside and given a JvM bloody good thrashing. 061 852 48 39, www.tokyo-underground.pl. To call the design minimal would be an understatement. There’s a couple of signs from the Tokyo Underground and that’s about it; the rest of this place is London grey with a few exposed pipes and brick walls on show. Fortunately the music is cracking, with great electro sets played to a committed crowd of local hedonists. Sod the design, this looks set to become one of the liveliest nights in the calendar. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PA 02 27 52, www.tubaclub.pl. Go past a metal detector, be frisked, then walk through a line of approximately twenty door gorillas. A walk around the network of rooms reveals a bone-crushing sound system, lots of vinyl seating and red and black colour schemes. This is a vast club specializing in playing chart dance tunes to crowds of 18 year old girls and pissed up lads. Just count the shaved heads; you’ll give up after a hundred. QOpen, Wed, Thu 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEB Tokyo Underground C-2, ul. Wrocławska 23, tel. Tuba (The Tube) D-1, ul. Małe Garbary 6, tel. 0 609 Ostrów Tumski. This island is where the city originated and ‘where Poland began’ according to Pope John Paul II. Legend has it that three Slav brothers called Lech, Czech and Rus met at this island having not seen each other for years. The city was named to commemorate their reunion, poznac being Polish for ‘to meet’. A castle was built on the island in the 9th century, and by the 10th century it had become a major centre of the Piast state. This is the spot where Poland adopted Catholic baptism and where the first bishopric was established in 968. Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry, the founders of the Polish state, are buried in the cathedral. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the Cybina riverside. March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 64 WHAT TO SEE The Castle (Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646 52 76, w w w. zamek. poznan.pl. Construction on Poznań’s fears om e castle began in 1905, with A. Webber the keys officially handed over to Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Designed by Franz Schwechten the building was built following neo-Roman aesthetic with living quarters for the Kaiser located in the west wing, and the throne room in the east. The small park and rose garden in the back was inspired by the Lion’s Courtyard in the Alhambra. Between the wars it became the seat of Poznań University though Poznań’s incorporation into the Third Reich saw sweeping changes. Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect set to work transforming the castle, with a view of turning the tower chapel into the Fuhrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the Warthegau district). By 1944 renovation work had finished, with all the original interiors completely remodelled. The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the principal tower to a third of its original height. Used by the university in the two years following the war, and then as the seat of local government, the castle building has operated as a cultural centre since 1962. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Star y Rynek 41 - Poznań’s oldest chemist, Under the Whi te Ea gl e has b een opera tin g since 1564. Stary Rynek 48 Originally built in the 12 th centur y the house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. During the 16th century it was residence of town mayor Kacper G oski. Au th or of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled in astrology. His unlikely, but ultimately accurate, prediction Town square A. Webber of the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalized him across Europe. Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and the small portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking bout King August II of Saxony tumbled out of the window; the roof broke his fall and saved his life. Nearby a tablet marks the level that floodwaters reached in 1736. Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by Mikołaj Ridt, the trader was apparently turned into a werewolf after a foul-mouthed outburst directed at a neighbouring convent. Following war damage the house was rebuilt in 1945 in renaissance style. WHAT TO SEE Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała) H-4, ul. Strzelecka 40, tel. 061 852 32 00, www.bozecialo. poznan.pl. A strange legend attaches to the church, involving the theft and unsavoury use of three three communion wafers. The unfortunate wafers were later found on the common, and King Władysław Jagiełło had the Gothic Church of Corpus Christi erected on the spot. Construction ended in 1470 and renovations were added during the Baroque period. The Gothic elevations and Baroque gable and tower are preserved in their original state. Points of interest include paintings of King Jagieło and Queen Hedwig from 1685, the high altar designed by Pompeo Ferrari, and the Baroque Chapel of the Virgin Mary. To this day, Corpus Christi processions are remarkably colourful and impressive, with the local houses brightly decorated and women and girls wearing Bamberg costumes. Q Open 07:30 - 09:00, 17:30 - 18:30, Sat 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 17:30 - 19:00. Niepodległości 20, tel. 061 852 31 34, www.poznan. dominikanie.pl. Built in the 13th century, this church was later given a Baroque interior, tower and gables. The stalls feature sculpted mannerist scenes from the legends of Saints Dominic and Hyacinth. The Late Gothic Rosary Chapel dates to the early 16th century and features a stellar vault and neo-Gothic furnishings. In the small courtyard outside the presbytery you’ll find the entrance to the Jesuit Gallery, where you can see the mannerist interiors of the library, cloister and Chapel of St. Hyacinth. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. den behind the bland exterior is a riot of baroque decoration, with carved wood, stucco and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented stalls. Lavish decorations aside, visitors flock to the church to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. 65 Dominican Church (Kościół Dominikański) A-1, Al. Churches www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl. Ostrów Tumski island is dominated by the Cathedral with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. A Romanesque cathedral was built on the spot in the 12th century and a Gothic structure went up in 1356-1410; in 1772 it received Late Baroque additions and classicist façade. Burnt down in 1945, it was reconstructed in 1946-1955 in the Gothic style. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to the founding of Poland. St. Stanislaus’ Chapel features an epitaph by sculptor Marian Konieczny; each November 1 a special mass in the chapel celebrates the souls of the kings and princes buried here. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament houses several outstanding examples of Renaissance sculpture, including the multilevel tomb of the Gorka family. St. Martin’s Chapel houses a painting by Poznań artist Krzysztof Boguszewski of the saint entering Amiens. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. No visiting during mass please. C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. 061 852 36 37, www. ofmconv.opoka.org.pl/poznan. Erected 1674-1728. Hid- Franciscan Church (Kościół O. Franciszkanów) St. Stanislaus C/D2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. 061 852 69 50, www. fara.archpoznan.org. pl. One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Parish Church of St. Stanislaus was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists. The striking interior is 55 metres long, 35 metres wide and 27 metres high, with huge columns providing dramatic light-and-shade effects. Fine specimens of Baroque ornamentation can be fond in the chapels of the Holy Cross, which features a 16th-century crucifix, and the Virgin Mary, which has a precious copy of the painting of The Mother of God of Incessant Help. Every Saturday at 12:15, the church hosts an organ concert played on an instrument dating to 1876. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. St. Adalbert’s Church (Kościół Św. Wojciecha) G-3, ul. Św. Wojciecha 11, tel. 061 852 69 85. This small, uniquelyshaped Gothic building was constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska, the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the nativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings, scholars, artists and other national heroes. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. Open to visitors by prior arrangment St. Francis of Assissi Church (Kościół Św. Franciszka z Asyżu) D-3, ul. Garbary 22, tel. 061 851 26 00, www.fran- Parish Church of 1/2. Th e Old Town Square was the centre of old Poznań, and to this day is rich in historic architecture, museums and restaurants. Around 60 per cent of the old town was flattened during WWII, th ou gh m os t of the houses were meticulousl y rebuilt in the 1950s following Baroque and Renaissance styles. Aside from A. Webber the two concrete Merchant house carbuncles planted needlessly in the middle, the town square remains one of the most picturesque in Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scales building that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market. Keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings that rim the Rynek: The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) C/D- Cathedral I-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. 061 852 96 42, The Bambergers If you’ve explored the side alleys hidden behind the town hall you will have come across a fountain featuring a peasant girl carrying pails of water. What’s it all about? She’s the Bamberg girl, and to answer your next question the Bamberg people were poor Catholic farmers from the Bamberg district of Bavaria, Germany. They originally arrived in Poznań over 280 years ago at the invitation of the city authorities. They were to help with rebuild villages devastated by the Northern War of 1700-1721 and depopulated by the spread of plague. Within a century of arriving, the Bambergers had assimilated into the local community, becoming patriotic Poles and later even resisting Prussian attempts to re-Germanize them. The bambrzy, or bambers as they were called, played an important part in helping Poznań become prosperous and in 1915 a fountain with a statue of a small bamberka girl in traditional costume was erected behind the town hall. ciszkanie.net. This church was built in the late 17th century on a spot chosen according to the principles of Baroque town planning. Its two-towered façade, designed by Jan Adam Stier and decorated with figures of saints, was added in the early 18th century. The original furnishings and decorations were destroyed in the war and replaced with replicas. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. St. John of Jerusalem Church (Kościół Św. Jana Jerozolimskiego) J-3, ul. Świetojańska 1, tel. 061 877 17 17. www.inyourpocket.com A. Pagińska The oldest standing church in Poznań and the city’s second-oldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights of Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. After a fire in 1512 a starvaulted ceiling was built over the nave and a nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, the building’s main draw is a rare Late Gothic painted triptych from the early 16th century. Q Open 07:30-08:30, 17:00-19:00, Sun 07:00-13:00, 16:30-18:00. Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 66 WHAT TO SEE The Great Escape Found some 150km southwest of Poznań, the town of Zagan was the site of one of the most celebrated prison breakouts of all time. Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood blockbuster, The Great Escape, the daring break from the Nazi prisoner-of-war camp Stalag Luft III has since been ingrained into English and Commonwealth culture. Opened in 1942 outside the German town of Sagan (now Polish Zagan), the camp was designed to hold thousands of captured allied airmen, including the most persistent escapees inside the Reich’s network of prisons. Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out of the complex before setting off independently for neutral territory. Even though the chances of success were slim, Bushell hoped that the very notion of 250 allied airmen loose inside the Third Reich would be enough to create an internal security headache, hence diverting important Nazi military resources. Having assembled a team of forgers, craftsmen, tailors and engineers Bushell’s ‘escape committee’ spent months building a trio of tunnels, all the time averting detection in what was to become a game of cat and mouse with the camp guards. Using improvised materials as diverse as tables, water cans and spoons, the tunnels were a triumph of ingenuity. Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and his cabal ensured escapees were provided with civilian clothes, forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200 tonnes of sand and earth were excavated, then carefully deposited in the exercise yards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their trouser legs, or inside the two other storage tunnels. The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but unexpected air-raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76 men to make it through before camp guards uncovered the escape. Those who did make it through set off on foot or by rail, though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station until daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. In total only two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to England. Of the rest of the escapees, 50 were executed, 17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to Sachenhausen and two were delivered to Colditz. In Poznań Following cremation, the ashes of the executed men were buried in the local cemetery - these were later moved to the Old Garrison Cemetery in Poznan. To visit the graves enter the cemetery at al. Niepodległości; turn right and you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the murdered. A particular name to look for is that of Roger Bushell, the driving force behind the escape. In Żagań The site of the original camp is now little more than overgrown scrub. Diehard historians though will enjoy picking their way through the weeds and bushes, as there are still a few remnants to watch for, including lines of wash basins and several foundations from buildings. A small memorial to the dead can be found at the nearby cemetery, and there’s a dusty museum featuring items recovered from the site. Buses and trains run daily from Poznań, though with journey time weighing in at around 4 hours a day trip is a far fetched idea. WHAT TO SEE St. Joseph’s Church (Kościół Św. Józefa) G-2, ul. Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. 061 852 92 93, www.karmelici.info. Opposite St. Adalbert’s Church you’ll find St. Joseph’s, a Carmelite church whose late 17th century design typifies the Wielkopolska Baroque style. It houses the grave of Mikolaj Skrzetuski, who defended the town of Zbaraż against the Tartars and Cossacks in 1649 and inspired the main character in Henryk Sienkiewicz’s novel, With Fire and Sword. Q By prior appointment only St. Martin’s Church (Kościół Św. Marcina) C-2/3, ul. Św. Marcin 13, tel. 061 852 32 63, www.marcinpoznan.hg.pl. First mention of a church standing on the site dates from 1252 though it owes its current Gothic look from the 16th century. Although this was Poznań’s most damaged church in WWII its interior is still a sight to behold. The wooden Gothic sculpture of the Madonna in the nave dates back to 1510, and the Gothic Silesian altar triptych is from 1498. Don’t miss the grotto that stands outside the church, built in 1911 after the vicar Tadeusz Wierbiński was miraculously cured of blindness by the healing waters of Lourdes. The grotto was built in thanks, and features a garden gnome like figure kneeling in front of Jesus. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 67 Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski (Pracownia Józefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego) D-1, ul. Wroniecka 14, tel. 061 855 12 44. Original manuscripts, over 200 rare first-editions and assorted writing equipment that once belonged to the author of Stara Baśń (Old Legend), a fanciful account of Polish prehistory. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. E-3, ul. Bukowska 19, tel. 061 847 56 01, www.zbsril.poznan. pl. Displays of stuffed and mounted Polish animals with accounts of their living habits, and information on indigenous plants. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission free. Environment Museum (Muzeum Wiedzy o Środowisku) Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts, correspondences and a collection of his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period furniture, his writing desk and pictures of our hero posing with his series of wives. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 3/2zł, Fri free. Kaponiera, tel. 061 847 63 59, www.aw.poznan.pl. A supreme example of how not to run a museum. The old battleaxe sitting at the kasa ignored us, staring defiantly at paperwork in spite of our plaintive rattling on the window and a growing queue behind us. We gave up waiting, so we’ve no idea if any exhibitions may have changed since our last visit. Expect cars, of what sort we’ll leave you to find out. Found in the subway beneath Rondo Kaponiera.QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 4/3.50zł. Motoring Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji) E-3, Rondo Historical Museum of Poznań (Muzeum Historii Miasta Poznania) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 852 56 Museums C-1, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. 061 852 20 35, www.mnp. art.pl/oddz2.html. Housed in what was formerly the Royal Castle of Poznań the route consists of three floors, the cellars being dedicated to temporary exhibits. Permanent exhibits include craftwork dating to medieval times, as well as clothing, furniture, glass and clocks, with an emphasis on decorations formerly housed in castles, palaces and other moneybag domains. While most hail from European shores, a few of the displays are as from as far as Japan. Of note are a lion-shaped vessel to wash princely hands that dates from 18th century Saxony, as well as glass decanter produced in 1813 picturing a pre-Bomber Harris Dresden. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Camera use 12zł. Guided tours over 10 people 35zł. I-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. 061 852 61 95, www. muzeum.poznan.pl. Arts and crafts, paintings, sculptures and antiques. The oldest exhibits date from the 12th century. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6/3zł. D-2, ul. Wodna 27, (Pałac Górków), tel. 061 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Ever wanted to see the Egyptian mummy of a woman called Hat? Then step right in. Poznań’s Archaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature-sized dioramas depicting life from the Older Stone Age to the Iron Age. It’s here you’ll find everything from flints and urns to models of hairy men holding aloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit, Death and Life in Ancient Egypt, features 120 rare pieces - of note are the granite obelisk of Rameses II the stands in the courtyard outside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed god Sachmet. The section on death presents colourful coffins, guides to the afterlife titled ‘Book of what is on the other side’ and the mummified remains of Hat, a boy called Padiseb and sacred animals including two cats, a falcon and a crocodile. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Guided tours 20zł. Audio guides avaliable in English for 12zł per person. Applied Arts Museum (Muzeum Sztuk Użytkowych) 13, www.mnp.art.pl/oddz3.html. The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering the city’s urban and economic development during that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artifacts, and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the town hall. A few posters from the Nazi era are on display, as well as a scattering of pictures showing Poznań in ruins after Soviet liberation, and the rebuilding efforts that followed. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Musical Instruments Museum (Muzeum Instrumentów Muzycznych) D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47, tel. 061 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl/oddz5.html. The only Polish museum of professional and folk instruments, with over 2000 items from Poland and around the world. The ground and first floors are given over to harmoniums and brass and wooden wind instruments. The stringed instruments inlcude a selection of lutes dating back to the 15th century. A collection of 160 pianos illustrates the development of the instrument from 1750 to the early 20th century. A seperate room holds the relics of Frederic Chopin such as documents and personal effects. The second floor rooms contain Polish and European folk instruments as well as fascinating instruments from all other continents. Rounding off the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments: music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianos and gramophones. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al. Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne) Archeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne) Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. The 1956 anti-communist demonstrations that took place in Poznań finally find themselves honoured with a permanent exhibit inside the Zamek. Making use of multi-media displays visitors are sucked back through time as they wonder around a series of dioramas that include a replica of a typical 50s flat, military vehicles and various keepsakes recovered from the era. Numerous photos have been collated, including the pictures of those killed, and a big part of the exhibition is taken up by a fabulous collection of socialist realist art from those times. Point of pride however is reserved for the shirt of Roman Strzałkowskiego, a 13 year old boy shot dead by militia forces during the rebellion. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Poznańskiego - Czerwiec 1956) A-2, ul. Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.mnp.art. pl. An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist and topic. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6zł, Sat free. 84, tel. 061 852 24 96. Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, Sienkiewicz is best known as the author of Quo Vadis, a birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50 languages. The museum is located in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work of Igancy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the authors John Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (Muzeum Literackie Henryka Sienkiewicza) D-2, Stary Rynek Pharmaceutical Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. 061 851 66 15. One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the trickiest to find - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here are filled with rusty pots, scales and cast iron mortars from the 19th century, and vials dating from as far back as the 17th century. Unless you speak German or Polish you’ll find yourself wandering around in ignorance, though the thick smell of medicine and scattering of pots for mixing potions is liable to bring out the Harry Potter in you. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine - while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an inmates uniform recovered from Mathausen. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. A. Webber Admission free. March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 68 WHAT TO SEE Wielkopolska Military Museum (Wielkopolskie Muzeum Wojskowe) D-2, Stary WHAT TO SEE WWII Poznań After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939 Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and saw an aggressive Germanisation policy with over 100,000 civilians expelled from the city, replaced with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and other far-flung regions. Of those exiled many died in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the area surrounding Lake Rusałka (E-1). Gestapo HQ was located in Dom Żołnierza (ul. Niezłomnych 1), in a building that was opened in March 1939 to serve as home to a Polish military garrison. Housing around 200 Gestapo officers the building was primarily used as an interrogation centre with thousands tortured in the basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in February 1945, and fiercely defended by SS military students who ultimately opted for mass suicide over capture. Completely battered by this siege, the only original remenant of the building is its tower, spared the brunt of Soviet aggression for the fact it was used as a reference point by artillery units. Prisoners processed through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the (still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B-1), or the notorious Fort VII (al. Polska) in the far west of the city. Used as a penal camp this network of 19th century fortifications today serves as the Museum of Martyrdom, and its gloomy subterranean chambers are filled with relics recovered from the site - photographs, cutlery, wallets and roasries. Outside the death wall commemorates the thousands shot by firing squad. The Jews faced a particularly vile fate, and it was in Poznań, 1943 that Himmler delivered his speech declaring Nazi intentions to exterminate Jewish life. Today little survives of Poznań’s Jewish heritage, with the early 19th century graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E-4) destroyed by the Nazis, before being commandeered by the authorities in the post-war period and incorporated into the MTP trade fair. Earmarked to serve as the palatial quarters of Gauleiter Arthur Greiser heavy reconstruction work on the Zamek (A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82) by Albert Speer meant that in reality Gresier spent much of the war residing on ul. Berwińskiego 5, today the home of a local radio station. Once the Soviet siege began Poznań was as good as doomed, with the old town faced with around 90% total destruction. A few images of the city in ruins can be viewed in the History of Poznan Museum inside the town hall (C-1, Stary Rynek 1). Another area defended to the last man was the citadel in the north of the city, which today houses the Poznan Army Museum (G-1). Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minus Steve McQueen and a few other Hollywood touches). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monument standing out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The red star that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it was filled with jewels proving to be an urban myth. Jammed in between Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska Uprising. 69 Commonwealth cemetery A. Webber A. Webber G-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Poznań Citadel), tel. 061 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Militaria, documents and photographs comprising three permanent exhibitions. The History of the Poznań Army covers this fighting force from 1918 to 1939; The Fighting Wielkopolska 1939-1945 details the underground resistance movements that operated during German occupation in World War II; and Battlefield items from the Bzura is a collection relating to the famous battle at the river Bzura in September 1939. Outside an array of military hardware includes a T34 tank, Katyusha rocket launchers, an Studebaker truck and a MIG. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Poznań Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Poznań) E-3, ul. Gajowa 4/8, tel. 061 847 36 45, www.bracz.edu. pl. The works of the poet and writer Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (1892-1983) stand preserved in the studio in which she formerly lived. Everything remains as it once was, from writing desks to personal possessions such as original manuscripts, books and paintings. Although Iłłakowiczówna’s fame is largely limited to native academics the exhibition isn’t a bad diversion if you have a passing curiosity in how poets live. If not, give it a miss. QOpen, Mon 13:00 - 15:00, Thu 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Admission free. Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (Mieszkanie-Pracownia Kazimiery Iłłakowiczówny) Rynek 9, tel. 061 852 67 39, w w w.mnp.ar t. pl. Situated inside a brutal post W WII pavilion th e Mili tar y Museum documents the history of the Polish mili tar y from the 11th cen tur y onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds th e collection includes th e armour of winged hussars, sabers, muskets and cannon, as A. Webber well as portraits of Polish military commanders and famous moments in their history. The unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort, and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century section features grenades, compasses and medical kits, and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising, with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The collection was decimated with WWII, with the only surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901 painting, The Battle of the Pyramids. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3.50/2.20zł. www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Learn everything you ever wished too about the Bamber people inside an interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a 17th century bonnet, spinning wheels, paintings, clothing and timber furniture - everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum. Outside view clunky farming equipment and other such detritus. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free. Poznan Bamber Museum (Muzeum Bambrów Poznańskich) D-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. 060 364 51 62, tel. 061 852 30 06, www.mnp.art.pl/oddz6.html. Once one of Europe’s greatest Masonic lodges, this 19th century building now houses a permanent collection of Wielkopolska folk culture. Exhibits include sculpture, painting, clothing, embroidery and decorative art, as well as musical instruments and religious objects. Look out for the display of valuable gifts, as well as a bronze statue of the Hindu goddess Parvati - this was the first addition to the museum following the aftermath of WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free. Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum (Wielkopolskie Muzeum Etnograficzne) D-2, ul. Grobla 25, Tourist information 45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailed tourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji Miejskiej) B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96 Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Railway Station), tel. 061 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in the train station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooks and videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation. Open 24hrs. 061 852 61 56. Maps and guides in Polish and English. German and some English spoken. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Tourist Information Centre (Centrum Informacji Turystycznej) C-2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel. Completed in 1880 to serve as a Prussian fortress Fort VII gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. It processed around 18,000 Polish prisoners, of which 4,500 are estimated to have been killed. The windswept grassy grounds make for a thought provoking walk and visitors can view the ‘death wall’ where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark tunnels used as improvised gas chambers - a metal plaque outside reads: ‘Here in October 1939 Nazi Germany began the mass extermination of mentally ill people with the use of poisoned gas’. Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners have also been preserved including hand written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identity papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task however. Found in the western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, with reputable drivers charging around 20zł for the journey. To get back into town you’ll usually be able to flag a cab down on the main road, though you may wish to avoid this game of chance by getting your driver to wait for the half an hour it takes to view the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (Muzeum Martyrologii Fort VII) Al. Polska, tel. 061 848 31 38. 061 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan. pl. Chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising this museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the Royal Guard. Although opened in 2001 the museum features nothing in the way of English explanation, so it’s worth investing your spare coins in the glossy pamphlets at the entrance. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the insurrections commander-in-chief, General Dowbor-Muścnicki, as well as the original state decorations awarded to him. Other points of interest are a banner flown on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak, numerous photographs of troop formations (including amusing shots of soldiers in daring gymnastic formations) and a series of postcards commemorating events (note the number of stars and stripes flags among the Polish banners). QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sat free. Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Wielkopolskiego) C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. Parks & Cemeteries Wilson Park (Park Wilsona) E-5, between ul. Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. Opened in 1902. Opposite the main entrance is a bust of the park’s patron. It also contains a large fountain with an 1891 monument of Perseus saving Andromeda by Johannes Pful, and the latest incarnation of the Palmiarnia, completed in 1992. QOpen 05:00 - 22:00. Places of interest Citadel Park (Park Cytadela) G/H-1, Wzgórze Cytadela. Winiary Hill, north of the Old Town, was transformed into a fortress from 1828 to 1839 by the Prussians. It was destroyed in the siege of 1945, and the remains of the fortifications house the Museum of the Poznań Army and the Citadel Museum, which has open-air displays of military equipment. The rest of the area the fortress occupied is now a large park. Of note are the cemeteries that lie on the south Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 70 WHAT TO SEE Lech Visitors Centre ul. Szwajcarska 11, tel. 061 878 74 60, swiatlecha@kp.pl, www. kp.pl. A must for all beer aficionados. What could be better than half a day out at one of Poland’s biggest breweries? The Poznan Brewery, which produces Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds lies on the outskirts of the city. There is no minimum number of people required for a tour so you can happily book by yourself. They do ask that you make an appointment for a tour the day before or at very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite this, our un-announced arrival presented no significant problems - although we were naturally disappointed that we would have to wait half an hour in the bar before a guide could be rustled up. The first hour consists of a waltz through the production process, fermenting and mashing as well as the usual guff about water purity and the like. The most striking thing about the first hour’s tour through the production plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of steel and technology. The two hour tour, which is available in English, German and Russian is both informative and thorough and your guides are employees of the brewery chosen for their years of experience and interest in the brewing process. The brewery, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive, and having been treated to a facelift in the 1990s is thoroughly modern; you’ll find yourself surrounded by sparkling steel on all sides. For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the multimedia centre. Here you’ll be treated to a film on the history and production of beer, as well as a galaxy of new attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film when it finishes, we kid you not. Take the opportunity to have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech which you can then instantly email to all of your friends or get involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the child engineer in all of you. After your exhausting cultural experience you’ll finish the tour with a well-earned beer which you can choose from their portfolio of brands, and you can complete your immersion into the world of Lech by buying up fleeces, keyrings, pens and beer mugs from the souvenir shop. To get to the Brewery take a tram over to Rondo Rataje over the river and then take the M1 bus out to the shopping mall on the edge of town. Hop off and you can’t miss the brewery as it has three huge towers draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi ride from the centre will set you back about 20zl. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed 10:00 - 20:30, Tue, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 14:00 Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing time Admission free. Lech Visitors Centre west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth graveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minus Steve McQueen). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Army soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monument standing out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The red star that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it was filled with jewels proving to be urban myth. Jammed in between Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska Uprising. After all the gloom and death the installation titled ‘The Unrecognized’ by Magdalena Abakanowicz comes as light relief. Some 112 cast iron headless figures stand at over two metres high and make for curious viewing. Added to the park in 2002, the meaning of the controversial installation is open to debate. For more about the artist visit www. abakanowicz.art.pl. Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last ticket sold 60 minutes before closing. Admission 5.50/4zł. Palm House (Palmiarnia) ul. Matejki 18, tel. 061 865 89 07, www.palmiarnia.poznan.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Poznań Model C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the Franciscan Church, entrance from Ludgarda Street), tel. 061 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in Brau-Hogenburg’s picture sketched in 1618. Constructed over a period of six years the model takes up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development. Foreigners get given headsets to listen to heavily accented commentary in the language of their choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony. Great fun that shouldn’t be missed. Q Shows last 30 minutes and start every 45 minutes between 09:30 and 17:00, 7 days a week. Admission 12zł, kids under 10 and groups over 15 people 9zł. Zoos New Zoo (Nowe Zoo) ul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over 2,000 animals representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60 per cent pine and mixed forests with an artificialy-created creek and string of ponds running through the grounds. This way, the creatures live in recreations of their natural habitats rather than inhumane concrete pens. A pavilion for nocturnal animals was added in 1995. Q Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1 Open 09:0019:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. 061 848 08 63, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions. Beasts occupying the 4.39 hectare zoo include lions, zebras, giraffes, hippopotami, monkeys and apes. It officially became a Poznań historical site in 1972. Q Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1 Open 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł. Old Zoo (Stare Zoo) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. Poznań In Your Pocket 72 KÓRNIK Hailed as one of the great castles in Poland the neo-Gothic Kórnik lies 20km south east of Poznań and makes for an easy day trip for those looking to see a little more of the region. If you’re in Poznań the easiest way to reach Kórnik is by bus. You have two choices. Either take the private Kombus bus (tel. 061 898 06 66, www.kombus.com.pl), numbers 501, 502 or 560 which leave from the Kombus bus station (I-5, Rataje Roundabout, ul. Krzywoustego 19). Tickets are bought directly from the driver - just ask for Kórnik Rynek, hand the man 5.80/2.90zł (for students up to the age of 26, children under 4 travel free) and away you go. Your journey will take around 30 minutes. There is at least one bus every hour departing around 12 minutes past the hour on weekdays with an extra bus running at peak times. At weekends buses leave once an hour, most hours, at the start of the hour. Buses run from 05:12 until 23:37. There is also a PKS bus (tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl) that runs from Main Bus Station (F-4 ul. Towarowa 17/19). The first one leaves at 05:30 and the last 22:30. Buses leave Poznań at least once an hour with additional buses between 11:00 and 17:00. Ticket costing 5.50zł may be bought in the ticket office in the station or from the driver. KÓRNIK Kórnik Castle ul. Zamkowa 5 (Kórnik), tel. 061 817 00 81, www.bkpan.poznan.pl. Originally built at the tail end of the 14th century by the Górka family, the castle has been extensively remodelled through the centuries, and is one of the few cultural treasures that was spared the hurricane of destruction of WWII. The ideal backdrop for a supernatural horror, the corridors of Kórnik represent a marvellous trip through time. The castle is a ten minute walk from the bus stop, and the closer it looms the more impressive it appears. Founded by the Górka’s this noble family fell into extinction and, after bitter ownership wrangles, the castle passed into the hands of the Działyński family at the end of the 17th century. It would remain the family domain until 1880 when it was inherited by their closest (legitimate) relative, Władyslaw Zamoyski, who before his death in 1924 bequeathed the castle to the Polish nation. Today the castle owes its appearance to the Działyński family, with the last reconstruction occurring during the 19th century while the castle was under the stewardship of Tytus Działyński. Having originally commissioned the Italian architects Corazzi and Marconi to draw up plans Tytus was put off by the extravagant costs of their suggestions so commissioned a third architect, the German K.E Schinkel (responsible for many of Berlin’s neo-classical structures). Although Schinkel prepared detailed sketches he never actually visited Kórnik, so a frustrated Tytus - a savvy engineer - took matters into his own hands and used a conglomeration of his own ideas and previously submitted plans. Taking a hands-on approach both he and his wife designed all the interiors themselves, leaving their indelible mark on the castle. Accessed across a wooden draw bridge a visit to the castle does not begin until you’ve strapped a pair of oversized slippers to your feet and done a couple of deft ice-skating moves on the slidey surfaces. Immediately to your right lies the study of Zamoyski, the last owner. Furnished with 17th century Gdansk cupboards the room also includes a mahogany desk from England, a 19th century Webster’s dictionary and a travelling chest that the workaholic Zamoyski would sometimes use as a pillow. Further on the route takes you through a variety of chambers, each packed with paintings and ornate furnishings. The drawing room is one of the highlights of the ground floor, and features a grand piano owned by Tytus’ sister, Claudyna. Given to her in Dresden, legend has it that Chopin once tickled these ivories in his bid to seduce her. The fireplace, grand as it is, should be noted for other reasons. It’s in here that a patriotic Tytus hid to escape arrest for his involvement in the 1831 Uprising. Other treasures to look for include a rotating table, made from 16 different species of wood, thereby allowing guests to whimsically decree which particular segment they would dine on, and the room is also home to a French pedal harp, its strings made from animal intestines. Carrying on visitors can view an original mosaic from Pompeii depicting a slavering hound and a warning to ‘Beware of the Dog’, while the wooden ceiling of the dining room features 71 coats of arms belonging to the Polish aristocracy. At the end of the room, a giant portrait of Teofila, who is said to float down from her portrait on occasion as a White Lady and stalk benignly around the grounds. On your way out don’t pass by the mirror; look straight into the middle of it, and make a wish instead. Known as the Morskie Oko (a lake in Zakopane), this mirror is something of a point of pilgrimage for newlyweds. Last on your tour of the ground floor is the Hunting Room. Of note are the interlocked antlers of a pair of a deer, the remains of a deadly fight in the forests of Kórnik. A host of anthropological treasures fill the rest of the room, including Melanesian masks crafted from human bone and a necklace made from human teeth. The seashells on display are the collection of Zamoyski who planned to use them to build a subterranean chapel - a plan abandoned after his death. Walking up the stairs a huge hall designed to mimic the Alhambra contains Tytus’s collection of military weaponry, from the uniforms of winged hussars, to five metre lances. Other curios include two handed battleaxes, lances from the 15th century and a 16th century Spanish chest. Used to store valuables this 13 lock monstrosity can be viewed as being the precursor to the safe. From there on you’ll find a dizzying arrange of personal effects, from Napoleon’s spoon to military medals and even a death cast taken of Jan Dziełyńskich’s hand - a supreme example of the sepulchral art of the day. Kórnik is also an important seat of academia, and the library found inside the castle rates as one of top five in Poland. Founded by Tytus Działyńskich in 1828 it boasts over 400,000 tomes, including approximately 30,000 books over 150 years old. The prize possession is the Order of Benedict, a 9th century manuscript which is the oldest in Poland. Since 1953 it has operated as part of the National Library of Poland, with an onus on science, and you’ll find many of the more interesting books frequently put out on public display; available for view on our visit were a map from 1482, a first edition of Copernicus’ defining work, De Revolutionobis and a 16th century bible penned in twelve tongues. Although the library suffered looting courtesy of the Nazi forces the castle itself was saved from an ignoble end by the sharp wits of a curator; keep your eyes to the ground by the entrance, close to the Zamoyski’s study; it’s here you’ll spot a tile arrangement vaguely resembling a swastika; this was pointed out to a group of visiting German officers as a sure sign of Nazi supremacy, and they left peacefully satisfied in the knowledge that Kórnik was German enough to be saved from destruction.Q Open 10:00-15:30. Closed Mon. From May 1 Open 10:00-16:30. Closed Mon. Admission 11/6zł, family ticket 20zł. Guided tours up to 30 people 60zł. Y 73 Getting there Kórnik Penned in by lakes and forests Kórnik (pop. 6,500) is your signature provincial town, with its principal high street lined with trees and two storey townhouses dating from the 18th and 19th century. On alighting from the bus you’ll be met with the sight of All Saints’ Church, a beautiful brick building founded in 1437 and funded by the Górka’s. It was rebuilt in a neo-Gothic style in 1826 after being gutted by fire, and its crypt holds members of the Działyński and Zamoyski families - more of them later. Other points of interest include ‘the eye of the needle’, a narrow Kórnik Castle A. Webber passage leading to a now defunct Jewish prayer house (find it on the main high street as you go into town, keeping an eye out for the Hebrew inscription on the wall), as well as the neo Baroque town hall, now serving as the seat of local government. Built in 1907 its stand out feature is the mechanical rooster that appears out of the clock on the strike of noon. The name of Kórnik is thought to refer to the locals’ skill in raising roosters (kur) and as such you’ll find no shortage of game on offer in the local restaurants. The best address in town is Biała Dama (Pl. Niepodległości 20, 061 817 02 16), a vast restaurant hidden inside a squat reminder of the 1960s. Festooned with plants, ceremonious lighting and the obligatory picture of The White Lady, they have the benefit of an English menu on which you’ll find dishes like boar and venison. Unless you have the fortune of having your moment of quiet contemplation hijacked by a wedding party its more than likely you’ll be doing your dining in echoing silence. For a more down to earth experience hit Kórnicka (ul. Poznańska 19/21, 061 898 06 22) - a locals restaurant with yellow walls, local radio and the lonely chime of grandfather clocks to remind you of the desperation of living in the sticks. No booze license, and no English menu, though the greasy plates of Polish food will do enough to keep you from cannibalism. If you’re keen to linger on in Kórnik then consider booking a night in Hotel Daglezja (ul. Woźniaka 7, tel. 061 897 27 00, www.hoteldaglezja.pl, singles 140zł, doubles 199zł, apartments 249zł). The bad news is the exterior, a complete work of insanity; although given a modern look the horror includes a mock castle tower complete with pieces of stone cladding, and a connecting wing painted in ghastly rainbow colours. Fortunately the accommodation is great, with a very decent contemporary standard, new fittings and highly commendable restaurant serving local and European dishes. If for reasons unknown you’re travelling with your racket then check into the Motel Centrum Tenisowe on the outskirts of town (ul. Poznańska 5d, tel. 061 819 08 21, www. centrumtenisowe-motel.pri.pl). Facilities here include covered and outdoor courts and decent if sterile rooms. The Arboretum Having toured round the castle don’t make the mistake of ignoring the arboretum outside. Originally it was our favourite white lady, Teofila, who founded the gardens, creating a park in the popular French style with trimmed shrubs, artificial ponds and stone statues. The garden was completely remodeled by Tytus Działyński, who expanded the park, imported many of the trees currently standing and gave it its English look. Today the fifty hectare site serves as a marvellous walk, with numerous protected species and trees from as far away as China. Winding pathways take you round the site, providing many memorable scenes no matter what season you’re visiting in. Linden trees dating back 350 years line the principal route, taking you round the various lakes and rivers. Like the castle, the Arboretum was saved from the ravages of WWII by a quick thinking member of staff. Alarmed that Soviet soldiers were chopping down trees for firewood the gardener appealed to the patriotism of the Soviet commander, declaring that the forest was also home to the Siberian apple tree. Appalled by this desecration the commander stopped his troops in their tracks and the park was saved. Battered by storms in January 2007, the park has stood the tests and trials of time, its status confirmed by the presence of the National Institute of Dendrology. www.inyourpocket.com March - June 2008 All Saints’ Church A. Webber Poznań In Your Pocket 74 CASTLES OF WIELKOPOLSKA Łagów Castle ul. Kościuszki 3, Łagów, tel. 068 341 21 19, www. zamek-lagow.pl. Lying halfway between Poznań and Berlin Łagów Castle is surprisingly easy to access. If you’re traveling by car make the 100km trip past Świecko and Świebodzin, before leaving the main road and turning right at Gronów. Łagów lies 6km away. Alternatively take a train from Poz to Świebodzin, and from there take a bus to Łagów. The Castle First off you’ll need to know that while Łagów makes for an easy journey this is no daytrip; since being renovated by the Centre for Sports a n d To u r i s m i n 1971 Łagów has functioned solely as a restaurant, hotel and conference centre, so if you want to snoop around you’ll need to shell out on one of the aforementioned. Jan Jerszyński The good news is that this place is as cheap as a bag of buttons – doubles cost from 180200zł per night, and not only do you get to live the dream of staying in a castle for the night, you can even opt for a night in a ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed this is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunky manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits and pieces. Bear in mind there’s only 14 rooms here, so do book in advance to avoid disappointment. First mention of Łagów, or castrum Lagowe, can be traced back to 1299 when it was awarded to a knight named Albert von Klepzig by a group of Brandenburg magistrates. The history books concerning the fortress are vague to say the least, though we do know that in 1347 it was leased to the Johanniter Knights, who belonged to the Order of St John, and it was also in this century that ramparts were built and the castle started taking on the form of which we are now familiar with. The castle only saw action once, during the 30 Years War (1618-1648), though passed its acid test with flying colours; its stoic defenders successfully beating off an attack by Swedish troops. As time passed the Johanniter’s became an evangelical knighthood which allowed them to marry, with the first commander of the castle to advantage of this being Andreas von Schlieben. He died in 1571 and was buried in the local church, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got no chance of meeting him. In 1820 the president of the Poznań Treasury was visiting the castle when he saw the ghostly shape of a knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. The ghost apparently bore a canny likeness to the image on von Schlieben’s tomb and has been spotted several times since; though only in spring and summer, and only by men. There is no sane explanation for the flames that accompany him, but don’t let that ruin a good story. As time passed the Johanniter order was secularized on the whim of Frederic Wilhelm III and the estate was taken over by the state, before being sold on to a series of private landowners. It escaped WWII undamaged and today original details like the 15th century brick gate can still be viewed. GNIEZNO ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live the high life and splash out on a cab: five złoty should be enough to get you dropped off in the Rynek. 75 See Kórnik Castle: page 72 Gołuchów Castle Gołuchów, tel. 062 761 50 94. Situated 115km from Poznań, and 20km north west of Kalisz, Gołuchów can be reached directly by bus from Poznań’s main bus station. The Castle A marvellous castle with an absolute feast of delights lying in wait for those who make the journey. The elaborate Gołuchów has taken many forms over the years, though its beginnings were less than auspicious. It was in 1560 when the local governor Rafał IV Leszczyński chose to build a fortified tower on this spot, filling it with only the most spartan of fixtures and fittings. The castle started taking shape in the following decades when Wacław Leszczyński, no doubt inspired by his studies in Italy and Germany, decided to attach a palace complex to the tower, as well as adding several elaborate details to the original structure. These included carved stone fireplaces, ornamental doors and his vast collection of paintings, though by the 18th century the castle – badly damaged during the course of the 100 Years War – had fallen into disrepair. A new lease of life was granted when Tytus Działyński (see Kórnik Castle, What to see) bought the castle in 1853 and gifted it to his only son, Jan Kanty. Having returned from political exile in Paris (for his part in the January Uprising, 1831) Kanty set about remodelling the castle to follow neogothic and renaissance forms. It was Kanty’s wife though, Izabella Elżbieta Czartoryska, who set about making the castle famous. It was her who didn’t accept original plans for renovation on account of them being too austere, and it was her who made the decision to open a museum. By her death in 1899 the halls of the castle were filled with paintings, tapestries and sculptures dating from the 16th century. The outbreak of WWII spelled disaster for this collection. Although the treasures were stacked away in metal trunks and hidden in Warsaw they were discovered by the Nazis, with the biggest museums of the Third Reich squabbling over the riches. Although much of the collection was recovered after the war most of the spoils were split between the National Museum’s in Warsaw and Poznań, while the castle itself – used as a warehouse for Nazi uniforms – was left a broken shadow of its former glory. The efforts to restore both museum and castle have been Herculean, and today your first sight of it may remind of the Loire Chateau. The museum is well worth the visit alone, with antiquities including vases from 3BC, 16th century books and manuscripts, gothic artwork and a number of relics that formerly belonged to t h e p r e - wa r m u s e u m . Th e annex near th e castle contains a forestry museum with all manner of stuffed beasts on display, and you may be lucky enough to spot a Polish bison lumping around the surrounding grounds. Mausoleum Minibuses Biznestransport ul. Trakt Lubelski 358 (Warsaw), tel. 0 505 31 16 99, www.biznestransport.pl. Save considerable sums, and even time, on train travel by hiring a minibus to travel inter-city. Full size luxury buses and limousines are also available and these guys can also stretch to courier services and even warehousing. Q Open 24hrs. Hotels Adalbertus ul. Tumska 7a, tel./fax 061 426 13 60, adalalbertus@pietrak.pl, www.pietrak.pl. Younger sister of the Pietrak Hotel, this one situated within eyeshot of the Cathedral and set around a courtyard filled with shrubbery. Found inside a restored 18th century building the Adalbertus features a serene atmosphere as well as all the modern day creature comforts necessary for a smooth stay. Q24 rooms (6 singles 128 - 160zł, 14 doubles 152 - 190zł, 4 apartments 240 - 300zł). THAUFLGKW hhh hotel-awo.pl, www.hotel-awo.pl. A superb deal accessed via an arched courtyard. Toothpaste smile service checks you in at reception before leading you up the stainless steel stairs to spacey rooms that come fitted with cable TV, vast beds and heating that is guaranteed to melt any icicles that have formed on your nose. Under-equipped travelers will appreciate the house computer for your internerd needs and the mini-shampoos found in the bathrooms. Q40 rooms (15 singles 150zł, 17 doubles 190zł, 1 triple 230zł, 1 suite 300zł, 3 apartments 300zł). THARULGK hhh AWO ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, recepcja@ J. Andrejewski It was at some time in the 10th century that Mieszko I chose to establish a court here, though by this stage Poland was far from being a recognized kingdom. That came about when Adalbert the first bishop of Prague deserted his duties and chose to take sanctuary from the stresses of his position in a Gniezno monastery. He was persuaded out of this self-imposed exile by the religious powers in Rome and set off in 997 with new zeal to convert the barbarous Prussian tribes in the west. He was killed immediately, prompting Mieszko’s son Bolesław the Brave to set out to recover the corpse. He did so, but only at extreme cost to himself, a selfless act that so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto III, the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire to Gniezno in 1000 to view St Adalbert’s body and meet with Bolesław. An archbishopric was created, and in 1025 Bolesław was crowned the first king of Poland in Gniezno cathedral. The Cathedral would see five more coronations before the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków. In spite of this Gniezno remained an important centre of worship and to this day is still regarded as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland. Gewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, tel. 061 428 23 75, fax 061 425 33 43, recepcja@gewert.gniezno.pl, www.gewert. gniezno.pl. Set inside a modern brick building the Gerwert touts all weather tennis courts, conference facilities and rooms decorated in vivacious shades of blue and yellow. Clean, comfortable and a short cab ride from the Rynek. Q24 rooms (1 single 126 - 140zł, 15 doubles 153 - 170zł, 5 triples 207 - 230zł, 1 suite 207 - 230zł, 2 apartments 189 - 210zł). THAULGKW hh Getting there Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day with the last one leaving Poznań at approximately 22:50. You’ve got two class of trains to choose from, either the Pospieszny, which has a habit of packing out with students buried under backpacks, or the Osobowy, which lurches to a stop at every hamlet. Journey time will take anything from forty minutes to an hour and one way tickets retail at little more than 10zł. Travellers using the Pospieszny train should note that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any tannoy announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, an upstairs internet cafe, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff with the Rynek lying little more than a ten minute from the station. Simply follow Lech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, tel. 061 426 23 85, fax 061 424 57 33, recepcja@hotel-lech.pl, www.hotel-lech.pl. A brutalist, blockish structure offering cheap rooms decorated with plastic plants and furnishings not seen for a couple of decades. Expect lots of dark brown; a great colour for cake, not for carpet. Nonetheless it’s decent and clean and apparently a popular choice for conferences. Q32 rooms (2 singles 100 - 130zł, 26 doubles 120 - 160zł, 4 triples 150 - 180zł). HARFKDC h Tourist information Tourist Information Centre ul. Tumska 12, tel./ fax 061 428 41 00, info@szlakpiastowski.com.pl, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. Head to the end of a narrow passageway before entering a small office where you’ll find an Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno related info. Expect English language pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of an amicable young team of local enthusiasts. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 76 GNIEZNO jacket potatoes and dumplings. The potatoes turned out to be crinkly fries, the dumplings must have got lost in the kitchen and as for the steak; we asked for medium, it came back alive. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (8-90zł). PTAUEBXSW GNIEZNO Play Club ul. Kaszarska 3, tel. 0 504 86 44 10, www. klubplay.pl. While the rest of Gniezno sleeps Play goes way into the night, waving the banner for provincial clubbing. Filled with Eminem replicants and girls dripping in blingy trinkets Play is, if nothing else, an interesting study in how far the general twittery of MTV has penetrated backwater Poland. But while the punters are desperately trying to feel part of the 21st century the interiors are anything but; here it’s all fake fog, strobe lights and stainless steel. Don’t be surprised to find the music is nothing more challenging than dance anthems played at ear popping volume. most popular drinkery in town, and while the name lacks imagination the interior doesn’t. Murals of cacti, a couple of wagon wheels and a wood frame bar suggest an attempt at a Dodge City bar, and other extras include an unexplained mannequin staring from atop of a mezzanine. The visual diversions don’t end there; the moment work finishes you’ll find half of Gniezno choosing to drink here, and it won’t take for outsiders to note that they’re a good looking bunch. Plenty of eye candy here, a screen for football and a background noise of party tunes lend this place a permanent buzz that lasts long into the evening. 77 Churches Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św Trójcy) ul. Farna 6, tel. 061 426 15 55. An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose key feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving figure of St Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fire and its interiors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside are the only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once ringed Gniezno. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. The Gniezno Cathedral (Archikatedra Gnieźnieńska) ul. Łaskiego 9, tel. 061 426 19 09. No Ratuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, tel. 061 424 32 23, www.ratuszowa.gniezno.pl. Rated by many as the top restaurant in Gniezno, and it certainly looks the part: black and white flooring, parlour palms and soothing cream colours. It all looks very ballroom and the menu is suitably high end with offerings that range from zander fillet to saddle of deer. Diners be warned, their opening hours are rigorously enforced, which is exactly why we were turned away at 10pm on a Friday night. Better luck next time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł). PTAUEBXS Pub ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 37 15. Possibly the Restauracja Polska ul. Tumska 5, tel. 061 426 18 00, www.5.gniezno.pl. A super restaurant split into different sections: cafe, restaurant, bistro - not to mention a heavenly garden that will no doubt be closed the moment you read this. Inside numerous chambers come decorated with framed oil paintings, fragile crockery and pointy linen napkins. The menu promises all the standards of Polish country cooking, and if you’re lucky you’ll find your meal complimented by live jazz performances. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-47zł). TAEBS sphinx.pl. Defini tel y not a gourmet experience bu t say it quietly, Sphinx is one of the best chances you have of eating well in Gniezno. You’re probably already familiar wi th th e concept by now; shoarmas, g yros, pizzas and steaks all ser ved wi th an accompanying spade of cabbage amid an interior of plastic trees and multi-coloured lanterns. The authenticity is definitely there to be questioned. This is after all a Polish chain ser ving middle eastern food wi th recipes apparentl y coined by Tom Maltom. Correct me if I’m wrong but it’s highly unlikely the pharaohs had their feasts prepared by a bloke named Tom. Nonetheless Sphinx is cheap, simple and hits your daily calorie count in one swoop, and that can’t be faulted. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (1881zł). PTABXS Sphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, tel. 061 426 13 73, www. J. Andrejewski Mieszka I 27, tel./fax 061 426 34 48, medykgniezno@ op.pl, www.medyk.gniezno.pl. The best bargain in town and as such it should come as little surprise to find no room in the inn. The lodgings here are basic but the fittings are new and kept meticulously scrubbed, and many of the rooms stare out onto a quiet courtyard. TVs and spanking clean bathrooms are part of the price. Good luck finding it though: you’ll need to walk deep into the medical academy that runs this place, before taking your chances with a monolingual receptionist. Q No breakfast served. 100 dorm beds 30zł per person. HFG gniezno@pietrak.pl, www.pietrak.pl. Set inside a restored townhouse overlooking the high street the Pietrak has long been considered the best hotel in town, which is why you’ll find political luminaries such as Lech Wałęsa and former president Aleksander Kwaśniewski listed in the guestbook. The feast of facilities includes a fitness club and spa, though if you’re tired of running around then get someone else to do it for you; room service is available at your beck and call. Lodgings feature internet, mini-bar and cable TV and the neo-classical rooms come decorated in swish green and cream colours. Q54 rooms (9 singles 180zł, 28 doubles 210 - 320zł, 9 suites 250 - 450zł, 9 apartments 320 - 520zł). PTHARUFL GKD hhhh Medical Vocational School Boarding House ul. www.hotel-awo.pl. Inch your way down a set of spiral stairs to find this basement bar. Filled with sporting trophies, mirrors and timber this is where the local lads head to in order to catch the match, their beer poured with panache by a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Check out the posters on the walls to see what games stand to be broadcast. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AREB Pub Cafe ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, What to see Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, and as with all towns the action came firmly centred around the market square (Rynek). The great fire of Gniezno in 1819 gutted this area, and most buildings have been rebuilt since that day. Look closely and you’ll see red bricks marking what once formed the town perimeter, as well as nameplates dedicated to the cities and firms who have funded more recent restoration work. The little pyramid structures denote where the town gates once were. What remains of the old city walls can be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the Holy Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn, though predictably none representing the Jewish faith; the towns one synagogue suffered a fiery fate after a high-ranking nazi official broke his leg while clambering up it in a post-party alcoholic stupor. Infuriated by his misfortune the budding fascist ordered the buildings destruction. In recent years the towns finest moment came when the Congress of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leaders of Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in Gniezno to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unity planted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running north of the Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the restaurant of the Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory), and diners have the opportunity to order exactly what he ate. matter how many times you may visit the Cathedral takes the breath away each time. Making your approach visitors pass by a statue of Bolesław the Brave, crowned Poland’s first king on this very site. Rising in front, the cathedral. Its current shape owes much to the trials of history; repeatedly burned and battered the structure has been patched up and embellished over the march of time. It was in the 14th century that this awesome beast took its current shape, and gothic arcades from this period can still be viewed between the pillars of the nave. Over the years Baroque flourishes were added, such as elaborate side chapels and steeples, and not even a fierce fire in 1945 could ruin their glory. It’s easy to feel the history as you stride down the aisles - under the south side lie numerous primates of Poland, including a 15th century tomb of Archbishop Zbigniew Oleśnicki carved by Wit Stwosz. Also of note is the silver sarcophagus of St Adalbert, this one designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van Rennen with surrounding figurines depicting the key events of the saints life. But ask anyone and the principal highlight are the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronze doors dating from the 12th century. Regarded as one of the most important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels each masterfully engraved with a different scene from his life - including his murder by vicious looking thugs armed with axes and spears. For more detailed information check out our feature on the Piast Route.Q Open 09:00-11:45, 13:00-16:00, Sun closed. Museums 061 426 37 78, muzeumag@op.pl, www.muzeum. gniezno.net. If you’re eyes are still hankering for the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: gold goblets, embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged to St Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/3zł. Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel./fax 061 426 14 97, Złoty Smok ul. Kaszarska 1a, tel. 061 426 78 04. Like so many of the Chinese restaurants in Poland the Golden Dragon goes straight for the eyes, blinding the visitor with a carnival of lanterns, painted screens and other ghastly bits and pieces. This is not Chinese food the way it’s served back home, but that’s not to say it’s not wor th visiting. The prices here are derisor y, your coins winning you steaming bowls of all the beef, duck and chicken dishes you’d expect. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (9-22zł). PS Museum Of Gniezno Archdiocese (Muzeum Archidiecezji Gnieźnieńskiej) ul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. Bars & Clubs Dracula Pub Rynek 15. To find that Gniezno has a nightlife comes as an unexpected plus, to then find it has a Dracula pub is enough to have you considering relocating. ‘Love never dies’ proclaims a sign above the threshold, and from thereon it’s a cheery romp through the under world as a maze of subterranean chambers reveal walls adorned with scary zombie masks, lanterns with Halloween faces and coffin-shaped doors. Find a solitary bargirl looking completely bemused by it all as she attempts to multitask between homework and finding a radio signal. Completely unexpected and a fantastic diversion, even if none of the locals seem to agree. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. Restaurants Hotel Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 14 97, www.pietrak.pl. The best hotel in town, but definitely not the best meal. Pietrak looks like it fits the bill with its bow-tie waiters, creeping ivy and classical columns but there’s no masking a disappointing meal. The menu claims the Chancellor of Germany dined here in 2000 and guests can still eat from the tailor made menu prepared for him. We can only assume the chefs have since changed. We opted for steak in Bernaise sauce accompanied with The Museum Of The Origins Of Polish State (Muzeum Początków Państwa Polskiego) ul. www.inyourpocket.com Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. 061 426 46 41, fax 061 426 48 41, info@mppp.pl, www.mppp.pl. Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum features numerous audiovisual presentations designed to appeal to the numerous school trips that file through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls and daggers. Until February the museum visitors can view a special exhibit dedicated to underwater archaeology.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 18zł, group ticket over 10 people 5,50/3,50zł per person, Sun free. Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 78 ŁÓDŹ Łódź In Your Pocket Your first lesson in Polish. ŁÓDŹ Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most certainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside the current issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps January - April 2008 Pots of Money Real estate in Łódź Cinema City The stars of local film N°6 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169 Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting underground culture. Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www. inyourpocket.com. Manufaktura How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen showings of sports events. With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress; further additions include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel, as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s museum and technological museum. Getting there Łódź lies North West of Poznań and is easily accessed by train. If you’re travelling from Poznań you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź Kaliska train station, allowing approximately four hours for journey time. Only a few trains a day run from Poznań, so if you’re determined to get there then your best bet will be going via Warsaw. If travelling from the capital you’ll need a ticket to Łódź Fabryczna station. The city centre is directly across the road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street, ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers should only use cabs that are clearly marked. Those taking the Poznań train will arrive at Łódź Kaliska station, approximately two kilometres from the centre. Taxis stand outside and you should pay no more than 15zł to get to the city centre. Some basics Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a manufacturing centre. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steampowered factory in Poland was officially christened. A massive influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made by the major industrialist families. By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000 Poznań In Your Pocket 80 GETTING AROUND Car rental (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 849 23 35, w w w.avis.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Telephone line manned 24 hrs a day. GETTING AROUND Public transport Poznań is criss-crossed by 20 tram routes (of which one runs at night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running approximately every ten minutes, and buses every twelve at peak times. When buying a ticket travellers are presented with a galaxy of options. Fares are as follows: Tram/bus tickets: Journeys o f up to fi fteen minutes: 2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł) Up to 30 minutes: 3.60zł (1.80zł) Up to 60 minutes: 5.80zł (2.90zł) There are also express lines which run to the airport amongst other places and whose numbers are prefixed with either ‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’. Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł) Express lines for up to 30 minutes: 7.20zł (3.60zł) Express lines for up to 60 minutes: 11.60zł (5.80zł) Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł), as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł). If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d be wrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choose from one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), for over ten stops (3.70zł/1.85zł), as well as express and seasonal lines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over ten stops (7.00zł/3.50zł). Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discounts are available for students aged under 26 and youths in possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased from the newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word for ticket is ‘bilet’. Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic card that is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from one of the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then topped up in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you see around the town. Our advice if you are here for a few days is to pick up the Poznan City Card which gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. It is extremely important that you remember to validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket and find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be fined 150zł on the spot. Many don’t look very official so you are within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay within seven days (in which case the fine rises to 210zł), or within 14 days (300zł). Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country without paying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passport details will have been noted, and border guards will gleefully place you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trust us. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard against pickpockets, particularly if making the journey to and from the airport. 81 By bus Avis ul. Bukowska 285, Poznań lies on the main highway (E30) between Warsaw and Berlin, and is served by frequent Eurolines buses. While the bus station is not one of the most modern you are likely to visit, it does have all the services you will need including toilets, tourist information and left luggage lockers. Eurolines C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9, tel. 061 853 12 28, www.eurolinespolska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. E-3, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks. poznan.pl. Q Box office Open 06:00 - 19:30. Budget ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica airport), tel. 0 601 35 46 89, www.budget.pl. Phone reservations recommended on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy) Eur opcar ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 849 23 57, www.europcar.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Hertz, Ławica Airport Bukowska 285, tel. 061 868 41 77 or 0 605 150 427, www.hertz.com.pl By car Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one way streets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed to traffic you may have to drive half way around the city to get from one side to the other. Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and marked by a blue line. Fancy parking meters need chip-cards, costing 1.20zł/half hour and 2.40zł/hour weekdays 10:00 - 18:00 and Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés and from the parking authority SOP A combination of . traffic jams and car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one of the guarded car parks dotted around the city and use the local transport system to get around. 9:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sixt ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 847 14 68, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 9:00 - 19:00, Sat 9:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Rent A Car Poland ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 0 510 19 38 01, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure). Guarded Parking E-3, Rondo Kaponiera (entrance from ul. Roosvelta). Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 82 GETTING AROUND Travel agencies - 14:00. Closed Sun. Blue Sky Travel F-2, ul. Roosevelta 2, tel. 061 841 09 00, www.bluesky.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Fly Away Travel D-1, ul. Wroniecka 17, tel. 061 853 03 57, www.flyaway.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Orbis Travel Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. 061 851 20 00, www.orbistravel.poznan.pl. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. WCT Tui Centrum Podróży E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 7, tel. 061 847 11 78, www.tui.pl/wct. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. GETTING AROUND Taxis Most taxis these days are reliable and use their metres but be aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stations and certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign on the roof marked with the name of the company rather than just a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driver turns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish law the driver should now have a cash register in the cab and is obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. You should expect to pay 5zl on entering the taxi followed by 2zl per kilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at night and for travel outside of the city limits. Taxis are obliged to display their prices in the windows of the cab so you can compare and check prices. Note that many firms offer a discount to their published prices if you phone and book one in advance. Express Taxi, tel. 061 96 24, www.taxiexpress.pl. Also vans and microbuses. Hallo Taxi, tel. 061 96 23. M1 taxi, tel. 061 96 69. MPT Taxi, tel. 061 91 91. Radio Taxi Poznań, tel. 061 96 22, www.taxi.com.pl. 83 Almatur B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9/43, tel. 061 855 76 33, www.almatur.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 Train schedule From Poznań To Poznań Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. 10:20 13:15 BERLIN Ostbf 06:40 09:32 14:20 17:15 BERLIN Ostbf 12:40 15:32 19:20 22:09 BERLIN Ostbf 16:40 19:42 10:20 13:26 BERLIN Hbf 06:29 09:32 14:20 17:26 BERLIN Hbf 12:29 15:32 19:20 22:20 BERLIN Hbf 16:29 19:42 10:20 12:13 FRANKFURT ODER 07:39 09:32 14:20 16:13 FRANKFURT ODER 13:39 15:32 19:20 21:13 FRANKFURT ODER 17:39 19:42 05:55 11:56 WARSAW 05:55 09:57 (1) 07:05 10:05 WARSAW(1) 06:25 09:40 07:48 11:21 WARSAW 07:25 10:17 09:35 12:35 WARSAW 08:25 11:17 11:53 15:55 WARSAW 09:55 13:54 (2) 12:54 16:14 WARSAW 11:25 14:17 15:35 18:35 WARSAW 13:25 16:32 16:35 19:53 WARSAW(1) 14:25 17:32 17:54 21:48 WARSAW 16:25 19:17 (2) 18:35 21:56 WARSAW 17:25 20:47 19:58 22:55 WARSAW 18:55 22:33 07:40 10:05 WROCŁAW 08:15 10:41 11:38 14:05 WROCŁAW 11:35 13:58 18:35 20:56 WROCŁAW 17:35 19:56 (1) - Mon - Sat (2) - Mon - Fri, Sun Most trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart) stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes to Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot. Trains are subject to change on public holidays. Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoing works (track improvements). For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl Train smarts The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if the rolling stock is by and large something you may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty slow even on express and Intercity trains with limited highspeed sections of track throughout the country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket to Krakow from Warsaw for instance setting you back about 130zl (about €35). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot, with first and second class compartments holding up to six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriages and 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed to be older and slower and pack more people into less space than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy (os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey is guaranteed to try your good humour. With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticket prices include a seperate seat reservation charge. More information on train times and prices check the very useful www.pkp.pl which has an English option. There is the functionality to book tickets online once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp) but you will need the help of a Polish speaker present. This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 8zł), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passenger will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage. Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may have the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a woman who has no qualms with silencing errant children with a thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartment with perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for a cursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls. Finally most stations throughout the country are appalling lacking in signs denoting the station name and it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and frustration. Arrivals Przyjazdy Departures Odjazdy Platform Peron 96 62, www.luxtaxi.com. pl. Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedes and drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Poland can still be a lottery as there are no apparent standards for how the taxi should look so if you want to make sure that you or your guest is picked up by something that doesn’t look like it has a dog sleeping in the back you should really give these guys a call. They also accept credit cards. Radio Lux Taxi, tel. 061 By train The main train station (Dworzec Poznań Glowny) is opposite the fairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square. There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja Miejska Poznan) counter in the station, however your best bet is Glob-Tour, a private tourist office-cum-bookshop that sells guides, maps and organises apartment rental. Glob-Tour also exchanges currency. If you are only staying for a couple of hours leave your luggage in the left luggage room (przechowalnia bagazu). It costs 2zł per item per day plus 1.5% of value in your bag; Open 24hrs. Tram and bus tickets can be bought from the MKP kiosk on the right when leaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00. Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14 in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will find queues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although it is now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for a small fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the Relay newsagents where you will see signs for the different platforms (peron). The station has a coffee shop, KFC and a few snack bars but if you have time to kill, it is recommended to take the 10 minute walk over to the nearby Sheraton where you can wait for your train in comfortable surroundings without being bothered by beggars every 2 minutes. Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl. Buy domestic tickets at windows N°2-14 in the main hall, most are open 24hrs. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and 7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows, but talk to the information office first. Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 MAIL & PHONES Here you’ll find all the information you need from the pirates at TPSA who’ll require you to mortgage your house to phone home to the minefield that is the Polish Post Office. We’ll tell you where to do it and how with the least amount of hassle possible 85 Country codes Australia Austria Belgium Bulgaria Canada Czech Rep. Denmark France 61 43 32 359 1 420 45 33 Germany 49 Greece 30 Hungary 36 Ireland 353 Israel 972 Italy 39 Japan 81 Netherlands 31 Poland Romania Russia Spain Sweden UK Ukraine USA 48 40 7 34 46 44 380 1 Express mail www.dhl.com.pl. A damn site easier and quicker then using the bog standard post. That said its also not the cheapest way to send your bits and bobs. Biggest plus is they will at least to communicate with you in English. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. EMS Pocztex, tel. 0 804 10 41 04, www.pocztex.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT ul. Wybieg 5/9, tel. 061 878 25 00, www.tnt.com. pl. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS ul. Bałtycka 6, tel. 061 833 36 48, www.ups.com. pl. 24hr delivery service. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. DHL ul. Komornicka (Głuchowo), tel. 061 810 93 00, Polish city codes Gdańsk Katowice Kraków Łódź Lublin 58 32 12 42 81 Poznań Rzeszów Szczecin Warsaw Wrocław 61 17 97 22 71 Internet cafes Cafe Cz@towa ul. Głogowska 142, tel. 061 661 55 31. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 3.50zł per hour. Ecafe F-3, ul. Roosevelta 10/5, tel. 061 843 26 69, www.ecafe.net.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 Printing and cd-burning services available. Wi-fi access If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing number of internet hotspots in and around central Poznań. All three of Poland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will be able to go online in most of their major retail outlets. W Throughout our guide we have highlighted those establishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) which offer wireless free internet connection. This covers both free access, where you are likely to need a network key and password from the bar/reception, and paid access where you will have to buy a card. Most places will have cards available for sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for Orange hotspots. You can buy a card for a straight 2 hours connection or you can pay 19zł for a card which allows you 2 hours connection over a period of 2 months. Useful if you don’t want to use up 2 hours wi-fi time in one go. In both cases you will be given a scratch card which carries a number. Open an explorer window and follow the on-screen instructions. - 23:00. 3.50zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services available. Post The going price for a non-priority letter under 20g: Poland 1.35zł Europe 2.40zł the rest of the world 2.50zł Kościuszki 77, tel. 061 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska. pl. If you read the introduction above you’ll already have a vivid picture of what to expect. Poznan is no exception to the rule. You can expect to play musical windows for the best part of half an hour followed by a short lesson in the customers always wrong. Keep smiling and they may let you out alive. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Post Office C-1, ul. 23 Lutego 28, tel. 061 886 55 11, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 3, tel. 061 886 57 01, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post Off ice D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 886 55 19, w w w.poczta-polska.pl. The post office in the old town area. Send and receive packages and letters from windows N°1-3, and buy stamps at N°2 and 3. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Main Post Office (Główny Urząd Pocztowy) A-2, ul. www.inyourpocket.com Post Office (Poczta Polska) os. Orła Białego Prepaid cards Avoid steep roaming costs when visiting Poland by buying a prepaid SIM card and sticking it in your mobile. Several companies now offer a prepaid service. Below is a comparative list of what it costs to set up and use each of them. Top-ups are available in most press kiosks unless otherwise noted. All prices quoted are for peak time calls and were correct at the time of going to press. Price Local London Top-up (zł) (zł/min) (zł/min) (zł) Orange 5/10/20 0.80 2.26 5/25/50/100 Heya 5/20 0.68 1.70 5/20/50 Era Tak Tak 9/12/25 0.77 2.83 5/25/50/100/150 Simplus 9/18/39 0.72 2.84 5/10/30/50/100/150 Sami Swoi 10 0.66 2.00 10/20/40/80/160 Play 9/30 0.49 2.00 10/30/50/70/100/150 Card SMS Coverage (zł) (%) 0.20 97 0.20 95 0.22 95 0.20 99.5 0.24 99.5 0.15 99.5 March - June 2008 86 SHOPPING 24-hour shops Delikatesy Anna A-3, ul. Taczaka 24, tel. 061 853 71 58. Your all night food shop in the Old Town. Q Open 24hrs. SHOPPING Stary Browar shopping mall Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its completion also marks a move away from out-oftown developments, and a new trend for inner-city regneration projects. Originally home to the Huggera Brewery, the building has always cast a huge influence on the city with beer production hitting 72,000 hectalitres in 1918. Even under German occupation the building continued to churn out piwo, with production only ceasing in 1944 when the basement was converted into bunkers and air-raid shelters. Heavily damaged in the siege of Poznań the hulk of a building finally stopped brewing beer in 1980. Stary Browar carried on operating at a fraction of its capacity producing mineral water, though it was only in 1998 that it was finally awarded a new lease of life. Bought by the Fortis group, an original investment of US$66 million saw the building transformed. Opened amid much fanfare in November 2003 the shopping mall now covers an area of over 100,000m2, and draws an average of 40,000 people daily. With over 210 retail units, including the Van Graaf designer store, bookshops and Alma gourmet delicatessen, the complex has become one of the most talked about developments in the country. The complex won the prize for the world’s best shopping centre in the ‘new centre medium’ category, as judged by award the International Council of Shopping Centres (ICSC). Summer 2007 marked the completion of phase II of the Stary Browar project - the expansion of a new wing, thereby nearly doubling SB in size. 87 Antiques Antyki (Antiques) B-2, ul. Kantaka 10, tel. 061 851 88 10. Solid collection of antiques collected by Piotr Sobisiak. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Antyki (Antiques) G-4, ul. Kwiatowa 13, tel. 061 853 55 92. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Antykwariat (Antique Shop) D-1, ul. Kramarska 20, tel. 061 853 07 82. Eclectic mix of antiques with antique Roman coins. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Desa D-2, ul. Wielka 24, tel. 061 851 53 91, www. desa.art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Filatelistyka B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 37, tel. 061 853 63 68. Coins and stamps in the courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galeria Michał Skowron D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 853 01 97, www.galeriaskowron.pl. Classy old furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Horn D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 42, tel. 061 851 56 27. Antiques and an art gallery on the main square. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Lidia W. C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7 (Pasaż niebieski), tel. 061 851 01 70. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Max Mara C-2, ul. Paderewskeigo 8, (Bazar Poznański), tel. 061 852 12 51, w w w.clubmode.pl. Also on ul.Półwiejska 32, (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Paryżanka-Moschino C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7 (Pasaż Niebieski), tel. 061 852 28 70. Also on ul. Ratajczaka 45, (B2). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. ALMOND Smoothes and firms Flowers Baccara - Art B-2/3, ul. Ratajczaka 21, tel. 061 853 71 78. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kwiaciarnia Lewkonia A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 63, tel. 061 853 78 38, www.kwiaciarnialewkonia.com. Send flowers to your loved ones through the Euroflorist. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Poczta Kwiatowa, tel. 022 828 95 95, www.pocztakwiatowa.pl. Flowers, fruits and vegetables. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Furniture Abra ul. Szwajcarska 14, tel. 061 652 77 11, www.abrameble.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Ikea ul. Szwedzka 10 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 650 71 11, www.ikea.pl. Assemble your own furniture. QOpen Books & Paper Empik C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 667 12 00, www.empik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Mebest Al. Solidarności 34 (Winogrady), tel. 061 825 05 77, www.mebest.pl. Also at ul. Obornicka 245 (Piątkowo) QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Hypermarkets 09:00 - 20:00. Real Market ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 874 56 00, www.real.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Tesco ul. Serbska 7 (Winogrady), tel. 061 829 97 00, www.tesco.pl. Also at ul. Mrągowska 4 (Grunwald), ul. Opieńskiego1 (Piątkowo). Q Open 24 hrs Stary Browar Shopping Mall, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 32, tel. 061 859 60 50, www.starybrowar.pl.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Auchan ul. Głogowska 432 (Komorniki), tel. 061 656 86 44, www.auchan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun Stary Rynek 63, tel. 061 851 82 07, www.powszechna. pl. Your one stop shop for intellectual stimulation. A large bookshop in a prime spot with late opening hours. There is a wide selection of English-langage books near the back and to the left on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Ksiegarnia Turystyczna (Tourist Bookshop) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 866 06 67. Maps and guides. Q Open 24hrs. 847 02 81, w w w.ksiegarnia-uam.win.pl. The main uni versi ty bookshop. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Omnibus B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 39, tel. 061 853 61 82, www.omnibus.com.pl. Language books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Ksiegarnia Powszechna (World Bookshop) C-2, ul. Perfume & Beauty D’or C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. 061 852 85 53, www.perfumeriador.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Escada C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 852 21 88, www.escada.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Incognito C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. 061 852 25 50. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. L’Occitane C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. 061 667 13 47, www.loccitane.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Marionnaud C-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 89 01, www.marionnaud.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Sephora ul. Głogowska 348 (Komorniki), tel. 061 893 66 70, www.sephora.pl. Also at ul. Szwajcarska 41 (Nowe Miasto). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00. L'OCCITANE stores Kraków: Pasaż 13, Rynek Główny 13 Galeria Krakowska, Ul. Pawia 5 Katowice: Silesia City Center, Ul. Chorzowska 107 Warszawa: Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 85 Galeria Mokotów, Al. Wołoska 12 Promenada, Ul. Ostrobramska 75c Poznan: Stary Browar, Ul. Półwiejska 42 Ksiegarnia Univ wer sy tecka (Univer sity Bookshop) E-3, ul. Zwier zyniecka 7, tel. 061 Clothes - 15:00. Closed Sun. Boutique mode International C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. 061 852 66 07. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 Ermenegildo Zegna C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 852 14 22, www.zegna.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A True Story. www.inyourpocket.com March - June 2008 Poznań In Your Pocket 88 SHOPPING Sabon C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061 859 62 88, www.sabon.pl. Choosing a gift is often quite a challenging experience so the opening of the latest in a chain of Sabon outlets, this time in Poznan’s Stary Browar shopping mall, should make this easier. Sabon means ‘soap’ in Hebrew and the store offers a comprehensive range of entirely natural products comprising of soaps, scrubs and bath and body products. The soaps themselves are made using a 70-year old Australian recipe and ingredients include Dead Sea extracts, aromatherapy oils as well as herbs and flowers from the Israeli countryside. All the soaps are made at a co-operative in Northern Israel and are shipped around the world. Sabon in Poznan is now one of over 50 stores worldwide which were founded in Israel. The first store opened there in 1997 with other branches now in New York amongst others. The first store opened in Poland on St. Valentine’s day 2004 in Wroclaw and you’ll now find them also in Warsaw as well as Poznan. One of the biggest boons for those looking to buy gifts is the award winning packaging which include vintage apothecary style glass jars. Sabon pride themselves on their opposition to animal testing and the fact that all their products and packaging are made from recyclable and biodegradable products. Check out their selection in either the Stary Browar shopping mall (G-4) or online at www.sabon. pl QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. DIRECTORY 24-hour pharmacies www.inyourpocket.com Shopping malls CH Panorama ul. Górecka 30, tel. 061 650 00 65, www.galeriapanorama.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun King Cross Marcelin E-3, ul. Bukowska 156, tel. 061 886 04 02, www.kingcrossmarcelin.com.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. 89 Real estate Ewa Tracz ul. Chełmońskiego 22 (Łazarz), tel. 061 866 21 33. Sale, purchase and hire. Global Invest ul. Jodłowa 23 (Bogucin), tel. 0 602 215 509, www.globalinvestpoland.com. Mamdom www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of real estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, government organisations and companies. Every single offer has at least one image and the descriptions are all translated into English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose to deal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or make use of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdom charges no commission on any property purchases. Apteka Centralna C-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. 061 852 26 25. Q Open 24 hrs. Apteka Galenica C-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. 061 852 99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl. Q Open 24hrs. Business facilities Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. 061 859 05 90, www.dominahotels.pl. Domina Residence in Poznań will be offering conference facilities for up to 25 people with multimedia projectors, wifi, cordless microphones, full speaker system, 3 x 2.5m projector screens and a 50” plasma screen. For further information please contact Łukasz Uliszewski at Domina Residence. Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061 858 70 00, www.orbisonline.pl. Sheraton Poznan Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. A choice of 7 conference rooms ranging from 35 to 210m in size with videoconferencing and wifi available. 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pasaż Rondo J-2, ul. Zamenhofa 133, tel. 061 874 22 90. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Relocation companies Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www. corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office and local moves also handled. Universal Express Worldwide Movers ul. Ogrodowa 9 (Przeźmierowo), tel. 061 896 15 02, www.uer.pl. Souvenirs www.cepelia.pl. A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and handicrafts. Also at ul. Woźna 12 (H-3; 061 852 07 94) and ul. Ratajczaka (Żabikowo; 061 853 15 99). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Cepelia D-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. 061 852 58 14, Dentists Radus C-3, ul. Szymańskiego 7/3, tel. 061 855 12 43, www.radus.com.pl. Tax refund Non-EU residents can claim VAT refunds on purchases made in shops bearing the Global Refund logo. The only condition is a minimum outlay of 200zł on your part on the item purchased. Claim your Global Refund cheque, have it stamped at customs before claiming your money back at your nearest cash refund office. For full details check www.globalrefund.com. Translators and Interpreters Biuro Tłumaczeń Delta ul. Starowiejska 1A/5 (Winogrady), tel. 061 828 80 81, www.delta-translators.com. pl. English & German translations. Business Service ul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel. 061 868 44 47. European and oriental languages. Ex-pat organisations International Ladies Club C-2, ul. Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 0 601 78 71 23, www.pilc.sns.pl. Q Meetings every first Wednesday of the month. Genealogy 852 46 01, www.poznan.ap.gov.pl. Embassies The following Warsaw-based embassies will be able to help foreign nationals in case of emergency as well as direct you to the consulate and other departments. National Archives B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 41/43, tel. 061 Language schools www.berlitz.pl. EMPiK B-1, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14, tel. 061 851 00 62, www.empik.edu.pl. Berlitz G-4, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 95 95, Australia ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 022 521 34 44. Austria ul. Gagarina 34, tel. 022 841 00 81. Belgium ul. Senatorska 34, tel. 022 827 02 33. Canada ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. 022 584 31 00. Czech Republic ul. Koszykowa 18, tel. 022 628 Denmark ul. Rakowiecka 19, tel. 022 565 29 00. Estonia ul. Karwińska 1, tel. 022 881 18 10. Finland ul. Chopina 4/8, tel. 022 598 95 00. France ul. Piękna 1, tel. 022 529 30 00. Germany ul. Dąbrowiecka 30, tel. 022 584 17 00. Hungary ul. Chopina 2, tel. 022 628 44 51. Ireland ul. Mysia 5, tel. 022 849 66 33. Italy pl. J.H. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. 022 826 34 71. Japan ul. Szwoleżerów 8, tel. 022 696 50 00. Latvia ul. Aldony 19, tel. 022 617 43 89. Lithuania al. Szucha 5, tel. 022 625 33 68. Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. 022 559 12 00. New Zealand al. Ujazdowskie 51, tel. 022 521 05 00. Norway ul. Chopina 2a, tel. 022 696 40 30. Portugal ul. Francuska 37, tel. 022 511 10 10. Russia ul. Belwederska 49, tel. 022 621 34 53. Slovakia ul. Litewska 6, tel. 022 525 81 10. South Africa ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 625 62 28. Spain ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 022 622 42 50. Sweden ul. Bagatela 3, tel. 022 640 89 00. United Kingdom al. Róż 1, tel. 022 311 00 00. USA al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. 022 504 20 00. 72 21. Local government Poznań City Hall H-3, Pl. Kolegiacki 17, tel. 061 878 52 00, www.poznan.pl. Ryszard Grobelny mayor 061 878 52 00. Department of Information and Development: 061 878 56 95. Department of Culture and Art:061 878 54 55. Department of Sports, Recreation and Tourism: 061 878 53 51. Places of worship Holy Cross Protestant Church (Kościół EwangelickoMetodystyczny Św. Krzyża) C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 6, tel. 061 823 85 72. Q Services on Sundays and holy days at 10:30. Muslim Culture & Recreation Centre (Muzułmańskie Centrum Kulturalno-Oświatowe) ul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Łazarz), tel. 0 507 75 43 01. Q Services on Fridays at 12:30. Private clinics Klinika Grunwaldzka E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. Luxmed E-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. 061 845 11 11, www.luxmed.pl. 061 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl. Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 Brovaria Domina Residence Stare Miasto Sheraton Poznan POLAND N scale EA CS LT I BA (KALININGRAD) RUSSIA LITHUANIA 0 km MALBORK 50 km 100 km BELARUS GERMANY UKRAINE CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA ZAKOPANE 96 STREET REGISTER 23 Lutego B/C-1 27 Grudnia B-2 3 Maja B-1/2 Al. Armii Poznań G-1/2 Al. Cytadelowiczów G-1 Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2 Al. Niepodległości A-1/3 Al. Republik H-1 Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2 E/F-2 Barzyńskiego Bastionowa G-1 Berdychowo I-4 Bnińska K-2/3 Bolesława Krzywoustego H/I-5 Brandstaettera H-1 Bukowska E-3/4 Bydgoska J-2/3 Cegielskiego H-4 Chopina F-2/3 Chwiałkowskiego F/G-5 Cicha F/G-2 Czartoria H/I-3 Długa C/D-3 Dominikańska D-1 Dożynkowa G-1 Droga Dębińska H-5 Drzewna F-4/5 Drzymały E/F-1 Dworcowa E/F-4 Działowa G-2 Działyńskich B-1 Dziekańska I-2/3 Ewangelicka H-3/H/I-4 Filipińska I/J-3 Franciszkańska C-2 Fredry A-1/2 Gajowa E-3 Garbary D-1/2 Garncarska A-2 gen. Dąbrowskiego E-3 gen. Maczka F-1 Głogowska E-4/5 Główna J-1/2/K-1 Gołębia C/D-2 Góra Przemysła C-1/2 Górna Wilda F/G-5 Graniczna E-5 Grobla D-2 Grochowe Łąki G-2/3 Grudzieniec E/F-2 Grunwaldzka E-3/4 Gwarna A-2 Inflancka K-5 Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4 Jaskółcza C-2 Jeżycka E-2 Kaliska J-4 Kanałowa E-5 Kantaka B-2 kard. Wyszyńskiego I-3 Katowicka J-4/5 Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4 Klasztorna D-2 Kochanowskiego E-2/3 Kopernika G-4 Koronkarska J-2 Kościuszki A/B-1/2/3 Kozia C/D-2 Kórnicka I-4/5/I/J-5 Krakowska G-4 Kramarska C/D-1 Krasińskiego E/F-3 Kraszewskiego E-3 Królowej Jadwigi G-4/5 Krysiewicza C-3 ks. Posadzego I-3 ks. Wujka F-5 Księcia Józefa G-2 Ku Cytadeli H-2 Kurpiowska F-2 Kurza Noga C-2 Kwiatowa G-4 Libelta A/B-1 Lubrańskiego I-2/3 Ludgardy C-2 Łady E-2 Łaskarza J-3 Łazienna H-3/4 Łąkowa G-4 Łucznicza I-5 Majakowskiego J/K-4 Małachowskiego J-2 Małe Garbary D-1 E-5 Małeckiego E-1 Małopolska Mansfelda E-2/3 Mariacka K-1 Masztalarska C-1 Mazowiecka E-1 E-2 Mączna Mickiewicza E-3 Mielżyńskiego B-1 Młyńska B-1 Mokra D-1 Mostowa D-2 Murna C-2 Muśnickiego D-3 Mylna E-2 Na Podgórniku G/H-2 Na Szańcach H/I-1 Nad Bogdanką E-2 Nad Wierzbakiem E-1 Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5 Noskowskiego F-2/3 Nowowiejskiego B-1/2 Ogrodowa C-3 Ostrów Tumski I-3 Ostrówek I-3 Owsiana F/G-1 Paderewskiego C-2 Panny Marii I-2/3 G-4 Pasaż Apollo Piaskowa H-3 Piastowska H-5 Piekary B-3 Pl. Andersa G-4 B/C-2 Pl. Wolności Podgórna C/D-2/3 Podolska E-1 Podwale Powstańców Wielkopolskich Poznańska Północna Półwiejska Prużańska Przemysłowa Przepadek Przystań Pszenna Pułaskiego Ratajczaka Ratuszowa Roosevelta Rybaki Rynkowa Serafitek Sienkiewicza Sieroca Składowa Skośna Sochaczewska Sokoła Solna Sowia Spadzista Stary Rynek Stawna Strusia Strzałkowskiego Strzałowa Strzelecka Szelągowska Szewska Szkolna Szymańskiego Śląska Ślusarska Śródka św. Czesława św. Jacka J-2/3 A-3 E-2 H-2 C-3 K-5 F-5 G-2 I-4 G-1 F-2 B-2/3 C-2 E/F-3 C-3 C-1/2 I-4/5 E-3 C-2 A-3 F-3 F-1 E-1 G-3 J-5 G-5 C/D-2 D-1 E-5 E-2/3 C-3 C-3 I-1 D-1 C-2 C-3 E-1 D-2 I/J-3 F/G-5 I-3 św. Marcin A/B-2/3 św. Marii Magdaleny D-3 św. Michała J/K-3 św. Wawrzyńca E-2 św. Wojciech G-3 Święcickiego E-4 Świętojańska J-3 Świętosławska D-2 Święty Marcin F/G-3 Taczaka A/B-3 Taylora A-2/3 Topolowa H/I-3 Warszawska J-3 Wąska E-2 Wenecjańska H-3 Weteranów I-5 Wielka D-2 Wieniawskiego A-1 Wierzbięcice F-5 Wierzbowa H-4 Wieżowa I-3 Winogrady G-1 Wodna D-2 Wojska Polskiego E-1 Wolnica C-1 Wołyńska E-1 Woźna D-2 Wrocławska C-2 Wroniecka D-1 Wszystkich Świętych D-3 Wysoka B/C-3 Za Bramką D-3 Za Cytadelą G/H-1 Zachodnia E-4/5 Zagórze I-3 Zamkowa C-1 Zdrojowa K-3 Zeylanda E-3 Zielona D-3 Żniwna G-1 Żydowska D-1 222 29 Academic Pub 52 Adalbertus 75 Adria 39 Agawa 52 Alabama 35 Alexander 39 Ali Baba 39, 48 Applied Arts Museum 66 Archdiocese Museum 66 Archeological Museum 66 Astra 29 Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski 67 Atmosfera 50 Awaria 52 AWO 75 Azalia 36 Bacchus Winiarnia 52 Bamberka 47 Bambus 36 Bar Wegetariański 49 Batory 32 Bażanciarnia 37 Bee Jay's 39, 52 Behemot 50 Blue Note 52 Bodega Cafe 53 Bogota 53 Brogans Irish Pub 53 Brovaria 27, 39, 53 Browar Pub 53 Cactusfactoria 53 Cafe Bordo 50 Cafe Lustro Wpomnień 50 Café Plotka 54 Campanile 29 Cardamon Cafe 50 Cathedral 64 Chimera 50 Chłopskie Jadło 47 Citadel Park 69 City Information Centre 68 Cocorico 50 Cofeel'ya 50 Corcovado 40 Corner Pub 54 Corpus Christi Church 65 Coxy's 40, 54 Cuba Libre 61 Cute 61 Cymers 46 Czekolada 50 Czerwone Sombrero 46 Czerwony Fortepian 40, 54 Daily Cafe 50 Da Luigi 43 Dark Restaurant 40 Déja Vu Café 54 Delicja 37 Delicja Hotel 32 Derby 30 Deserovnia 40, 54 Domina Poznań Residence 27 Dominican Church 65 Dom Vikingów 37 Donatello 43 Dorrian 30 Dracula Pub 76 Dragon 54 Dramat 47 DV Club (Dom Vikingów) 61 Dworek Skórzewski 34 Dwór w Podstolicach 34 Emforiu 61 Environment Museum 67 Eskulap 55 Estella 43 Euro Hotel Swarzędz 34 Fasion Cafe 55 Feniks 30 Fidelio 50 Figaro 37 LISTINGS INDEX Filigrando Cafe & Lunch 50 Fontanna Czekolady 55 Fort Colomb 55 Franciscan Church 65 Frolic Goats Hostel 32 Fuego 55 Fusion 38 Gewert 75 Girasole 43 Glob-Tour 68 Gold 32 Gong 50 Green Hotel 34 Gromada 30 Habana 40, 55 Henlex 30 Hipokryzja 55 Historical Museum of Poznań 67 Holy Trinity Church 77 Hotel Pietrak 76 HP Park 27 IBB Andersia 27 Ibis 30 Ikar 30 Imaret 40 IQ 61 Johnny Rocker 56 June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum 67 Kamea 56 Kangaroo House 36 Kawka 50 KFC 48 Kisielice 56 Klepsydra 56 Klub Charyzma 61 Klub Galeria Shisha 56 Klub Zak 56 Kresowa 47 Kultowa 57 La Scala 44 Lech 31, 75 Lech Visitors Centre 70 Le Palais du Jardin 37 Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz 67 Lizard King 40, 57 Lobby Bar 57 Lokanta 40 Londoner Pub 57 Malibu Bar 57 Markowa Knajpka 47 Massimiliano Ferre 44 Mat's 28 Matii Restaurant -Vodka Bar - Sushi Bar 45 McDonald's 48 Medical Vocational School Boarding House 76 Mercers 50 Mercure Poznań 28 Meridian 31 Milano Ristorante 44 Mini Hotelik 32 Młyńskie Koło 31, 47 97 Rynek graffiti Alex Webber Poznań facades AP Poznań In Your Pocket March - June 2008 98 LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX Mood 40, 57 Morphine 61 Mosaica 42 Motoring Museum 67 Muchos Patatos 57 Museum Of Gniezno Archdiocese 77 Musical Instruments Museum 67 Nalewka 38 Naramowice 32 National Museum 67 New Zoo 70 Novotel Poznań Centrum28 Novotel Poznań Malta 28 Old Town Hall 63 Old Zoo 70 Olimpia 31 Ossowski 34 Ostrów Tumski 63 Pałac Wąsowo 34 Palm House 70 Panama 42 Panorama 38 Papavero 42 Parish Church of St. Stanislaus 65 Patio 38 Pekin 36 Pharmaceutical Museum 67 Piano Bar 58 Piano Bar Restaurant & Caffe 44 Pieprz i Wanilia 42 Pietrak 76 Pireus 38 Pizza Hut 46 Pizzeria Rozmaitości 44 Play Club 77 Pod Aniołem 47 Pod Dzwonkiem 48 Pod Koziołkami 48 Pod Minogą 58 Pod Pretekstem 51 Pod Złotą Jabłonią 48 Polonez 31 Pomorski 32 Post Dali 58 Poznań Army Museum 68 Poznan Bamber Museum 68 Poznań Model 70 Proletaryat 58 Pub 77 Pub Cafe 77 Puzon 58 Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe 58 Ratuszowa 48, 76 Red Erik Cafe (Dom Vikingów) 51 Residence & Workshop of Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna 68 Restauracja Polska 76 Restauracja Zapadnia 42 Restaurant de Rome 42 Rodeo Drive 35 Room 55 42, 58 Roti 48 Royal 28 Rzymianka 43 Rzymski 31 Sakana 45 Sami Swoi 59 Sansibar 62 Sarp 59 Shark 59 Sheraton Poznań Hotel 28, 48 Sioux City 35, 48 Sioux Classic 36 Soho 51 Solei Rezydencja 31 Sol i Pieprz 43 SomePlace Else 36, 59 Sonata 43 Spagetheria 48 Sphinx 48, 76 Sport 32 Sports Bar (Dom Vikingów) 59 SQ 62 St. Adalbert's Church 65 St. Francis of Assissi Church 65 St. John of Jerusalem Church 65 St. Joseph's Church 66 St. Martin's Church 66 Stacja 51 Stare Miasto 29 Sushi 77/noodle bar 45 Sushi Sekai 46 System PREMIUM 32 T&T 32 Taj India 39 Tapas 62 Tapas Bar 49 Taste Barcelona 49 Tawerna Mykonos 38 Terytorium 62 The Castle 64 The Dubliner 60 The Fire Place Lounge 60 The Gniezno Cathedral 77 The Mexican 46 The Museum Of The Origins Of Polish State 77 The Old Town Square 64 Tivoli 46 Tokyo Underground 62 Tourist Information Centre 68, 75 Trawiński 29 Tuba 62 Uczta Babette 51 U Honzika 60 U Mnie Czy u Ciebie 51 Valpolicella 44 Vinoteka la Bodega 59 Vivaldi 29 W-Z Strefa Tańca 48 Weranda 51 Whisky Bar (Dom Vikingów) 60 Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum 68 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum 68 Wielkopolska Military Museum 69 Wielkopolska Uprising Museum 69 Wilson Park 69 W Starym Kinie 60 Zagroda Bamberska 32, 38 Za Kulisami 60 Zapiecek 51 Zielony Smok 37 Złoty Smok 76 Features index 1956 Uprising Brewery Tour Castles of Wielkopolska Climate Enigma and Poznan University EURO 2012 Poznan Ghosts! Great Escape History In the news (new) Language Smarts Lech Poznan Football Club Malta Festival Market Values Meteors Monuments of Poznan National Holidays On the grapevine Poles you should know (Count Pawel Edmund Strzelecki) Poles you should know (Ignacy Jan Paderewski) Poles you should know (Krzysztof Komeda) Poles you should know (Wojtek the bear soldier) Poznan City Card Poznan Goats Press & Mail Quick Currency Convertor Quick eats Quick Picks Skansen Minature Smoking or non-smoking The Bambergers The Piast Route Trade Fairs Train Smarts Wielkopolska Uprising WWII Poznan 21 70 74 17 34 54 56 66 20 52 18 58 28 17 45 30 19 49 60 42 56 57 16 63 26 19 48 14 46 40 65 6 12 83 20 69 Poznań In Your Pocket