Formerly Poznan’s premier bar noir, what was once a dog-eared local legend has since been gentrified and refurbished. The dishevelled decor of yesteryear has disappeared, replaced instead by a brick bar, naked girders and floorboards that no longer squeak. To their credit the clientele stubbornly persist in honouring the artistic legacy, with charity shop fashions and roll-up cigarettes glued to their fingers. The music policy is as alternative as ever, but one can’t help but think the glory years have passed.