There’s no shortage of things to see and do in Wrocław, and our tried and true, preferred method of discovering them is eighty percent aimless wandering around. If there’s room for a little wide-eyed rambling in your schedule, you’ll find no more rewarding experience than meandering around the Old Town. Those looking for a little more guidance, however, would do well to take into account our picks and tips to ensure they miss nothing of importance during their stay.

The first port of call in Wrocław, and that which the entire city is laid out around, is the Market Square, or Rynek (A/B-3). This is not only the city’s municipal centre, but also the social and cultural centre of Wrocław: a place of happenings, concerts and performance art, lined with terraced cafes and restaurants. Note that while the Rynek was originally built in the 13th century, much of what you see today is in fact a façade, quite literally. The square was ravaged by fighting in World War II and had to be rebuilt almost entirely in the 1950s. Though strict attention was given to original details, particularly those of the frontage, much of what lies behind them experienced understandable updating (though a medieval cellar never stops being a medieval cellar). Proudly square-shouldered in the square’s centre stands the Town Hall - a miraculous survivor from the 13th century and the city’s defining landmark. After exploring the three passageways packed with shops and bars that run under the Town Hall you should head for neighbouring Plac Solny (A-3), known as the Flower Market and always a bright sight thanks to the scores of flower sellers who are on call here twenty-four hours a day in the event of matrimonial emergency, ready to meet the requirements of empty-fisted Romeos - such is the importance of flower-giving in Polish society.

From Plac Solny you are only a short walk from St. Elizabeth’s Church (A-3, ul. Św. Elżbiety), the city’s tallest. Stunning views of the city can be had at the top, but be warned that the climb can be crippling for those who haven’t seen a stairmaster for some time. Head next to the stunning University (B-2, Plac Uniwersytecki), whose interiors are quite frankly far too plush for grotty students; don’t miss the university church (yes, even the university has a church), Aula Leopoldina - the grand Baroque ceremonial hall, or the panoramic city views from the Mathematical Tower. Before heading over to Ostrów Tumski, pop into Wrocław’s proper marketplace Hala Targowa (C-2, on the corner of Piaskowa and Św. Ducha). Here you can pick-up fresh produce and sandwich fixings for a riverside picnic, buy bargain bric-a-brac and satisfy whatever obscure shopping needs you have while getting a colourful look at locals living their colourful lives. And, of course, tasty, dirt cheap pierogi (what, your radar’s not going off?)

Crossing the river now, Ostrów Tumski (C/D-2) is packed with religious sights and historic significance. First settled in the 8th century with the first bishopric in 1000, this was originally the centre of Wrocław before 1240 when the Tartars razed the place and the city began redeveloping on the other side of the river where, quite frankly, there was more room. After that Ostów Tumski became an exclusively royal and religious sanctuary, a role which it has almost inconcievably maintained to this day. Largely devoid of shops, cafes and bars, etc, Ostrów Tumski has an ethereal feel that takes you miles away from the pace of life found throughout the rest of the city. Ideal for a romantic stroll, here you’ll find cobbled lanes, original gas lamps and lots of riverside greenery. Oh, and the churches: top of your list should be St. John’s Cathedral (D-2, Pl. Katedralny), famous for its stunning stained glass windows and for its 16th century altarpiece. To the right of the Cathedral’s main portal is the Archbishop’s Palace, now the Archdiocese Museum (the Archbishop lives elsewhere these days). Not to be missed either is St. Bartholemew’s Church, originally a Greek-Catholic (Uniate) church. For those looking for a sanctuary that’s not full of cadavers on crosses, head north to the city’s Botanical Gardens (D-2) – one of the finest, most pictureseque, and sadly overlooked, places for spending time in Wrocław.

Back over the river, locals will not forgive you for missing out on the Racławice Panorama (C-3), especially after all the trouble Poland took to get it on display for you. A 140m-long canvas depicting Kościuszko’s legendary (and short-lived) victory over the Russians in 1794, this is one of the only remaining panoramic paintings in the world – a genre that was actually quite popular in the 19th century. Of the city’s museums we would class the recently reopened Royal Palace (A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 35) as the most essential, with the National (D-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 5)and Architecture Museums (C-3, ul. Bernardyńska 5) more than worthy of a rainy day also.

With the addition of the dazzling new Wrocław Fountain, a tram ride west of the centre to the Hala Stulecia exhibition and park complex (I-4) is now also a required ramble. In addition to the UNESCO-listed Hala and Iglica monument, here you'll also find the Zoo and Japanese Garden near Szczynicki Park. But the real gem is the city's new fountain which during short-sleeve season puts on an incredible display of water, light and sound every hour, on the hour - somehow even more exciting than the reinforced concrete monolith next to it. Finally, no visitor should leave Wrocław without having hunted down a few of the city's infamous and elusive gnomes. Enjoy Wrocław.

Essential Wrocław comments

• 20
  May
  2009
  Tanya Shekhovtsova - Ukraine, Zaporozhye
  As a matter of fact, a fascinating bunch of city dwellers is revealed through the sculptures of steel dwarfs in Wroclaw city (Poland). They will surely share in their magnifying curiosity of the outer world with you, as they are being embodied in the city lively pulse of motion, hustle and bustle of busy days, welcoming tourists – usual beholders –to the world of medieval times. You will be interested to find most of them in the main streets close to most popular social and cultural venues. Elusive dwarfs are significant contributions to Polish culture.
• 23
  Feb
  2009
  Tatyana Sjekhovtsova - Ukraine, Zaporozhye
  Gnomes are really fantastic to look for throughout the city...It does prove to be the essential part of your walk through the city and the way to explore its most historic sights on the spot!