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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps RIJEKA Summer 2008 The heat is on A cluster of events to sparkle your summer Summer Secrets Where to stay, where to go and what to do N°7 www.inyourpocket.com Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Rijeka In Your Pocket CONTENTS 3 Contents Introducing Rijeka Get to know our fair city 5 6 7 8 12 18 23 25 Arriving in Rijeka Lost? Help is at hand. Basics Things you just need to know Culture & Events Where to stay Wherever you lay your hat... Restaurants For the gourmet that lies within Cafés Sipping Mediterranean style Nightlife Because you’re just so groovy What to see All the sights you shouldn’t miss 27 38 41 42 44 47 48 51 53 59 61 62 62 64 Opatija Mail & Phones It’s good to talk Getting around Transport map Sport Shopping Directory Kvarner Ruined Castles Maps & Index Country map Street index City centre map County map Summer 2008 4 FOREWORD What comes to your mind when you think of a holiday in Croatia? If you’re from the English-speaking world, probably Dubrovnik or somewhere down there in the south, while if you’re from Germany or Italy there’s a good chance you’ll also be in on the charms of Istria to the north. Somehow, the part of the coast in between, called Kvarner, has been forgotten, and its capital Rijeka relegated to the status of a transit point. Many people know about the floral playground of Opatija, Rijeka’s elegant neighbour, as the crowds that gather there testify. But how about Cres? Vrbnik? Here’s something we could call a best-kept secret. All these years of being overlooked have allowed such places to retain their charm, and now they are being brought into a new era of tourism in a way that avoids the concrete and commercialism that is the fate of so many seaside towns. Rijeka itself is gathering momentum as a city with an identity far beyond a stereotypical “resort”, which is why we chose it as the In Your Pocket destination. The people of this region are well known for their openness to new ideas, and a number of recent initiatives are making the city a truly fascinating and fun place to visit. We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has to offer, and be inspired to spend a few days here exploring. INTRODUCING RIJEKA Europe In Your Pocket 5 gration into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split. Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood for the city – the first, of course, is water itself. Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands – each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day. Cover story The cover reinvigorates a scene from the Ballet ‘Romeo and Juliet’ as performed by Rijeka’s Croatian National Theatre and directed by Staša Zurovec. This is Shakespeare’s classic tragedy which emanates purity, strength and love whilst defying social and political passion. It is definitely, one of the eternal cathartic themes. Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright RIYP s.r.o. 2000-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from Italy, you’ll have a tough time finding your way unless you have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but “Fiume” – which means “river” in Italian. And guess what “rijeka” means in Croatian? River. Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the reasons why this area was settled before Roman times – both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors. What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely central to the personality and existence of Rijeka – bright, refreshing, lifegiving and always moving on. Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of “Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies. The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint. In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan, and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka – they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and fortifications ortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reinte- Karolina Riječka If you notice a lot of references to a certain Karolina when you’re in Rijeka, that’s because she’s a muchloved historical figure from the town. Not without good reason – there’s nothing better than a strong woman, and more courageous than this you could not find. During the Napoleonic wars, a British squadron attacked Rijeka to wrest it from the French, but started a campaign of plunder and torching. Brave (and pretty) Karolina approached the British squadron leader and begged him to spare Rijeka’s people – and, amazingly, he did. Wow, and they didn’t even have Max Factor in those days. Apparently only one cannonball was fired – the one you see embedded in the wall of St Vitus’ Cathedral. Enjoy a drink in the beautiful Karolina bar on Rijeka’s quayside, where you’ll see pictures of Karolina of Rijeka, or try the light, fluffy Karolina cake, a speciality of the Cont patisserie. Rijeka In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1845-5514 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributor Nataly Anderson, Jonathan Bousfield, Frank Jelinčić Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Rijeka In Your Pocket team, TZ Rijeka, MGZ Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Željka Gorišek-Mihalić Dragana Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Cover: The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 6 ARRIVING IN RIJEKA Tourist information Tourist information Centre D-2, Korzo 33a, tel. 33 58 82, fax 21 47 06 Q Open Tourist Association of the City of Rijeka D-2, Užarska 14 tel. 31 57 10, fax 31 57 20 www. tz-rijeka.hr tz-rijeka@t-com.hr wap. tz-rijeka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat and Sun. Mon - Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 08:00 - 14:00. From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Karlovac. The motorway toll costs 56kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. From Split: We recommend taking the A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. By the time this goes to print, all sections of the A1 should be open. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal. Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr, or keep an ear open for traffic news in English on the radio. BASICS Customs All major items brought into Croatia (e.g. laptops, boats) must be declared; doing so ensures that you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts for stuff you buy in Croatia and ask for a tax-free form for purchases over 500kn, you qualify for a tax refund when you get home. Ask for a stamp on the border. If you intend to buy works of art, ask for export approval before you buy. More on www. carina.hr/engindex.htm. 7 Safety You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings. Toilets Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova – by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta – in the park over the modern bridge. Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50Hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances. By boat A seafaring city since before the Romans set foot on these lands, an arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. You can buy tickets for Jadrolinija ferries at the Jadrolinija office and at European travel agencies using the booking system. Check Getting around for domestic and international timetables. Jadrolinija C-2, Riva 16, tel. 21 14 44 - Ticket sales and exchange bureau. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable ser vice. Erste Bank cash machine outside. Timetable in the window. Open Mon and Fri 07:00-20:00, Tue, Wed and Thu 07:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-17:00, Sun 09:00-19:00 CC By plane tel. 84 20 40. Flight info: tel 84 21 32 www.rijekaairport.hr; rijeka.airport@ri.t-com.hr The airport (zračna luka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point (both open 08:00-18:00), an ATM, a small 24hr duty free shop, toilets, payphones, a post box, free left luggage and free parking. Check Getting around for domestic and international timetables. Getting to town: Autotrolej buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Jelačić Square for 20kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport. Rijeka Airport-Zračna luka Rijeka Hamec 1, Omišalj Roads Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 10 eggs McDonald‘s Big Mac Loaf of white bread Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket 45kn 12kn 14.9kn 5.5kn 4.9kn 19.50kn 8kn €6.00 €1.60 €1.98 €0.73 €0.65 €2.26 €1.06 By train Rijeka Railway Station - Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka A-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. 21 33 33 National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr. Rijeka’s railway station is in a lovely old Hungarian style building. It has all the basic services you need. Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office (open 07:00-19:00 then starts night shift) including the international (međunarodni) window, open 09:10-20:30 and domestic open 04:50-21:10.You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it’s best to reserve in advance for international journeys. Information: on Platform 1 (Ljubljana direction). Open 08:30-15:30h, Sun and public holidays is cls. They have tourist information in various languages; the staff speak English, German and Italian. Changing money: There’s a cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and a Privredna Banka and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building (open 08:00-19:30, Sat 08:00-12:30). There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikole Tesle Street opposite. Left luggage: Lockers; 00:00-24:00, cost: 15kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean, cost 2kn. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1. Shops and cafes: On Platform 1, there’s a café and fast food bistro open 05:00-01:00. There are a couple of newsstands by the entrance. The pleasant (air conditioned) Bistro Voyager opposite the station serves hot drinks, wine, snacks and cakes, open daily 05:30-23:00. Self service launderette Blitz, Krešimirova 3a, tel. 21 52 19, open 06:00-21:00, Sat 06:00-14:00, closed Sun. Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051-if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other cab companies). By bus C-2, Trg Žabica 1. Though small, the long-distance bus station, right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. Ticket office: open 05:30-22:30, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Check Getting around for domestic and international timetables. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 00:00-24:00, 13/kn day for average-sized bag. Toilets: inside the station, cost 2kn, pissoir 1kn. Public phones are on the platforms. Shops and cafes: Several snack bars, news kiosks and mini-markets work all night. There are a few cafes where you can refresh body and soul when you arrive. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other cab companies). Exchange rates (as of 25. 06. 2008.): US$1 = 4,65kn € 1 =7,25kn Rijeka Coach Station - Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Rijeka (April 2001): 144,043 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Rijeka is capital of the Primorska-Goranska županija “Littoral and Highlands County”, which encompasses the Opatija Riviera to the west, the coast to the east including Novi Vinodolski, a mountainous hinterland and the islands as far south as Ilovik. This all covers an area of 3,582km2 on land, 4,398.64km2 of sea, the coastline is 1,065km long and the highest point is the Kula peak of Bjelolasica, the mountain where the Croatian ski team train, which stands at a proud 1,534m. Climate: Sub-Mediterranean on the coast; temperate continental to mountainous. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Rijeka it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. Climate 30 20 10 0 -10 J F MAM J J A S O N D By car From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre. From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka. Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 www.inyourpocket.com -20 Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 8 CULTURE & EVENTS 10.06 - 6.09. Croatia on panoramic photographs ‘Panoramic photography’ is a way of presenting one’s surroundings. Modern techniques of shooting digital photographs have simplified ‘panoramic photography’ and have given it new life. Call it the new modern ‘film’ or ‘the miraculous mirror’ of contemporary photo cameras. Croatia is well known for its landscapes and has attracted greats like the brothers Alinari way back in the 19th century and Alois Beer from Austria. Major companies Photoglobe from Zurich and Stengel & Markert from Dresden send their best photographers to shoot the natural landscapes in and across Croatia today. The results are to be seen to be believed! Rijeka City Musuem CULTURE & EVENTS Rijeka Summer Nights M. Lazar-E. Clug PRÊT-À-PORTER Music by Milko Lazar Choreographed by Edward Clug Guest: The Slovenian National Theatre Ballet Company from Maribor July the 1st 2008, Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc 9pm LAIBACH Musical and theatre spectacle July the 5th 2008, Torpedo Factory (hall 1) 9.30pm Anonymous from the 17th century LUKRECIJA O'BIMO REKLI POŽERUH Comedy Directed by Jagoš Marković July the 7th, 8th and 9th 2008, Glavanovo Beach at Pećine 9.30 pm 9 Mirko Ilić 21.06 - 13.09 Summer on Gradina The artists listed cover just about every genre you can think of. The event will be held at Trsatska fortress with performances by Arsen Dedić and Gabi Novak, the Elvis Stanić band, Klapa Cambi, TBF, Urban &4, Marko Tolja and many other musicians. Tickets can be purchased in TIC on Korzo and in the Gradina caffe bar. 04 - 06.07. Street Jazz Festival & Liburnia Jazz Festival Kick up your heels this summer at this two day festival on seven stages and it includes one portable stage. Have you ever seen jazz on wheels? We have the jazz bus; with a jazz band playing on its roof top as it travels from Opatija to Rijeka. And the other will be a jazz boat that will sail from Opatija to Mošćenićka Draga. Up and coming stars such as Maja Savić, Suzana Horvat, the Denis Razz Quartet and others will perform. Don’t miss out on the Liburnia Jazz Festival with performances by the Mario Sehtl Trio, Eliane Elias, Josipa Lisac, Marko Tolja and many more. Summer stage, Lounge bar Monokini, Hotel Milenium, Imperial, Slatina Baths, Hotel Bristol at 9pm The Opening Ceremony of the Rijeka Summer Nights June 27th 2008, 9.30pm, in front of the Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc in Rijeka Compagnie Transe-Express (France) LÂCHER DE VIOLONS/RELEASING THE VIOLINS Gat Karoline Riječke 10pm Francis Poulenc THE DIALOGUES OF THE CARMELITES Conducted by Michael Helmrath Directed by Krešimir Dolenčić Guest: Opera of the Croatian National Theatre from Zagreb June the 28th 2008, Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc 8.30pm Slobodan Novak SCENTS, GOLD AND INCENSE Directed by Vinko Brešan June 28th and 30th, July the 1st 2008, Portić at Kantrida 9.30pm FROM BAROQUE TO BOSSA NOVA Concert Zoltán Hornyánszky, oboe, English horn Pedro Abreu, (Portugal) guitar June the 30th 2008, Trsatska gradina 9.30pm 04.07 - 29.08. Mirko Ilić Retrospective An exhibition called ‘Comic strip, Illustration and Multimedia’ from 1975-2008. It gives a remarkable insight into Ilić’s 300 plus American and Croatian accomplishments in design, comic book illustration and multimedia. It vindicates that his work continues to inspire every generation, beginning with the 1970’s; inspired by restlessness and rebellion, the era opened up a new wave of art standards following European and world trends, but also attracted a younger generation which liked good design and its products. Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art www.inyourpocket.com The Croatian National Theatre Ballet Company of Ivan pl. Zajc and CeDeCe Ballet Company, Portugal Luis Sousa PENELOPE Staša Zurovac THE SONG ABOVE SONGS premiere Music by Marjan Nećak July the 8th and 9th 2008, Hartera Paper Factory 9pm MGZ Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 10 CULTURE & EVENTS POST THEATER, New York/ Berlin/Tokyo skinSITEs video-performance at the specific location Concept/Artistic leader/Video Hiroko Tanahashi July 10th and 11th 2008, Ivan Klobučarić Square (in front of the Nikola Tesla High School and Philosophy University) at 9.30pm and 10.30pm, free entry Giacomo Puccini TOSCA Opera spectacle at Rijeka's three cultural and historical locations Conducted by Nada Matošević Directed by Damir Zlatar Frey July the 19th 2008, Lady of Lourdes Capuchin Church (1st Act), Maritime and historical Museum of Hrvatsko primorje Rijeka (2nd Act), Trsatska gradina (3rd Act) August Strindberg MISS JULIA Directed by Damir Zlatar Frey Premiere Co production of the MESS International Theatre Festival from Sarajevo and Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl .Zajc, Rijeka for The Rijeka Summer Nights July the 21st, 22nd, 23rd and 24th 2008, Torpedo Factory (hall 2) 9pm CULTURE & EVENTS 11 Giuseppe Verdi REQUIEM Conducted by Nada Matošević Opera of the Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl.Zajc July the 11th 2008, Lady of Lourdes Capuchin Church 9.30pm Ugo Betti DELITTO ALL'ISOLA DELLE CAPRE / A CRIME ON THE GOAT ISLAND Directed by Damir Zlatar Frey July the 12th and 14th 2008, Hartera Paper Factory 9pm KLAPA LIBAR Concert July the 14h 2008, Trsatska gradina 9.30pm WRITERS UNDER STARS A literature evening Topic: Catapult – literature siege July the 15th 2008, Marko Marulić Square 9.30pm Aristofan DONNE IN PARLAMENTO / WOMEN IN PARLAIMENT Comedy Directed by Serena Sinigaglia Guest: Piccolo Teatro di Milano – Teatro d’Europa In co-production wi th A.T.I.R. (associazione teatrale indipendente per la ricerca) July the 16th 2008, Riječka rezolucija Square 9.30pm MGZ Rijeka Summer Nights 2008 Closing Ceremony The closing ceremony of the festival and finale with the Novi list Awards for the Best Event, the most complete show of the Rijeka Summer Nights 2008 and the Audience Award. July the 25th 2008, 9.30pm, in front of the Croatian National Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc in Rijeka Mister Morgen – Ivo Robić Mister Morgen – Ivo Robić July 7 – August 24 An exhibition dedicated to the late Ivo Robić, a singer and songwriter who has left an immense impression on Croatian music and pop culture. With over 1000 of his items on display, this is his ‘be all and end all’. The exhibition will also display the development of Croatian pop music post WWII. Both themes will include a series of multimedia presentations which makes for an interactive museum event. Who was Ivo Robić? This is the man who introduced American 50’s soft wave music to Croatia. This is the man who made Croatia’s first ever rock n roll album called ‘Shake, rattle n roll’. Robić was a veteran of Croatian radio and music festivals. He lived and breathed for music. He composed some of the greatest classic tracks of Croatian music culture that are popular to this day (Samo jednom se ljubi, Srce laku noć, Mužikaši, More plavo and more). But that’s not all! Ivo Robić was the first singer in history to sing in German and get on the American (Billboard Charts) and British (UK Top Singles) with the song called Morgen (1959), for which he received the Polydor Golden Record. He appeared on the ‘Perry Como Show’, the ‘Dick Clark Show’ and ‘Ed Sullivan Show’. Robić became a true Croatian brand and an enormous export product. Gallery Šporer, Opatija Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 12 WHERE TO STAY Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly WHERE TO STAY Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. 71 90 00, fax 71 90 15, info@hotel-adriatic.hr, www. hotel-adriatic.hr; www.lifeclass.net. Peacefully located a 10-minute walk from the centre, you can choose between renovated 4 star and simpler 3 star rooms, but all guests get to enjoy the pool, natural rocky beach, 8th floor sun terrace, sauna and other fitness and wellness facilities. Q303 rooms (126 singles €69 - 113, 170 doubles €96 - 175, 7 suites €190 - 230). POTHAR6ULEGBKDCW hhhh Kristal Maršal Tita 135, Opatija, tel. 27 13 33, fax 27 18 76, kristal@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Sensibly priced accommodation in a spot where you can take advantage of the wellness facilities in the nearby Grand Hotel Adriatic or Thalassotherapy centre. Rooms are simple, and there’s a pleasant dining terrace shaded with wisteria overlooking the hotel’s beach. Pets 60kn/day. Q130 rooms (33 singles €104 - 148, 97 doubles €94 - 138). PA6IFLGKDC hhhh Milenij Maršala Tita 109, Opatija, tel. 20 20 00, fax 20 20 20, recepcija.milenij@milenijhoteli.hr, www. milenijhoteli.hr. Five star creature comforts in a splendid pink villa (1900s) centally located right by the town beach. The Millenium is well known for its great wellness centre, and its coffee house is a classy spot to enjoy kaffee und kuchen. Economy rooms, price on request. Q135 rooms (singles €105 - 121, 109 doubles €157 - 180, 4 triples €206 - 234, 6 suites €323 - 371, 4 apartments €262 300, 3 Presidential Suite €423 - 486, 9 Economy Rooms). PTJHARUIFEGBKDC hhhhh Milenij Grand hotel 4 opatijska cvijeta Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel. 29 50 01, fax 27 80 20, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. A brand new complex of four buildings named after the four flowers of Opatija - agave, camellia, oleander and tamarisk. Multifunctional, both business travellers and souls in search of bodily well-being will find all they need here. Economy rooms, price on request. Q266 rooms (208 singles €97 - 112, 15 doubles €142 - 163, 4 triples €182 - 208, 14 apartments €, 4 Superior Suites €291 - 335, 1 Presidential Suite €364 - 408, 20 Economy Rooms). PTJHARIFEGBKDC hhhh Mozart Maršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. 71 82 60, fax 27 17 39, info@hotel-mozart.hr, www.hotel-mozart. hr. Housed in a wonder ful 100-year-old building that retains much of its period splendour, the Mozart offers bright, high-ceilinged rooms with all the creature comforts. Muted colour schemes provide a soothing dose of style. All rooms come with hardwood floors and balconies, while apartments have canopied beds and whirlpool-style baths. The bottom-floor wellness centre offers saunas, steam baths, hydromassage and a host of beauty treatments in a relaxing, intimate environment. Q29 rooms (singles €180, 26 doubles €300, 2 suites €400, 1 Residential suite €600). PHAR6UILEGBKDW hhhhh Savoy Maršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. 71 05 00, fax 27 26 80, info@hotel-savoy.hr, www.hotel-savoy.hr. Charming old seafront hotel dating from 1910 and fully restored in 2004. The neat and comfortable rooms feature a reasonable amount of desk and storage space. Ask for an east-facing room if you want a balcony looking directly out onto the sea. ‘Superior’ doubles are slightly more spacious than the standard rooms and offer the added advantage of a full-sized tub in the bathroom. There’s a pool with sun terrace, and wellness centre with weekend programmes. Q32 rooms (2 singles €83, 26 doubles €113 - 138, 2 suites €209, 2 Junior Suite €138). PHAUFLGBKDC hhhh 13 Rijeka’s first guest rooms were on the site of today’s bar “2 lava” in the 18th century. During the commercial boom after the railway was built, there were 20 hotels here. Today there are only three open for business - a further one is currently being renovated - but things are changing as the city picks up confidence once more. In the meantime, there is no shortage of excellent accommodation in nearby Opatija, a town with over a century of history as a tourist centre. Upmarket tel. 70 63 50, fax 70 63 51, info@hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. An uber-stylish choice, offering neat, modern, design-conscious rooms in an elegantly restored belle-epoque building. East-facing rooms come with great views of Rijeka and the mountains inland. Top floor apartments have the added advantages of hardwood floors and a bathtub in the bathroom.Wireless internet throughout for 50kn/24hr. Q50 rooms (3 suites €227 - 254, 1 Junior Suite €177 - 204, 14 Double Standard €77 - 137, 25 Double Superior €87 - 147, 7 Double Deluxe €97 - 157). PTA6UGBKW hhhh Draga di Lovrana Lovranska Draga 1, Lovran, tel. 29 41 66/ 098 32 70 93, fax 29 18 26, info@dragadilovrana. hr, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Reopened after 80 years, this tiny, atmospheric spot on a hill overlooking Lovran has four gorgeous rooms, and a luxury apartment sleeping four with Jacuzzi and open fireplace. We love the harmony of original features and uncluttered contemporary design. Spectacular views and a super restaurant. Prices are per room per day. Q5 rooms (4 doubles €120, 1 apartment €385). PTHA6ILEGBKDW hhhh Astoria Design Hotel Ulica Maršala Tita 174, Opatija, Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 14 WHERE TO STAY Villa Adela Šetalište maršala Tita 47, Lovran, tel. 29 46 04, fax 29 45 89, sales@lovranske-vile.com, www. lovranske-vile.com. Tucked in a cove in romantic Lovran and with beautiful gardens, the story goes it was built (1905) as a love nest for a Lovran sea captain and a Spanish singer. Intimate and and richly decorated, it sleeps up to four. Pets 120kn/day. Breakfast not included. Q2 rooms (2 apartments €180). PTJA6ILGB hhhh Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. 29 44 00, fax 29 46 00, sales@lovranske-vile.com, www. lovranske-vile.com. Absolutely one of the prettiest villas and one of the few boutique hotels on the entire Croatian coast, this place is out of this world: the rooms, the restaurant, the garden, the pool and the view are all utterly... gorgeous. Breakfast included. No pets. Q6 rooms (6 doubles €225). PJALEGBKCW hhhh Villa Kapetanović Nova cesta 12a, Opatija, tel. 74 13 55/ 091 221 09 71, fax 74 13 56, villa-kapetanovic@ inet.hr, laurus@sagita.hr, w w w.villa-kapetanovic. hr. A wonderful new villa overlooking sleepy Volosko, both Villa Kapetanović and Volosko are famed countrywide for their cuisine. Definitely for you if you’re seeking comfort, refinement, good food and peaceful surroundings. The spa centre includes a whirlpool, sauna, massage and beauty centre. Pets free of charge. Q10 rooms (singles 340 390Kn, 7 doubles 490 - 600Kn, 3 apartments 450 - 690Kn). PAR6ILBKDCW hhhh WHERE TO STAY www.inyourpocket.com fax 74 34 44, ambasador@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. First opened in 1966, this brash concrete-and-steel cube of a building seems decidedly at odds with its belle-epoque surroundings. Ugly from the outside it may be, but once you get inside the advantages of modern functionalism soon become apparent. All the rooms get a balcony with sweeping views, and the social areas at ground-floor level have an expansive, open-plan feel. Trendy modern artists decorated various parts of the hotel - look out for Zvonko Lončarić seacreature mosaic overlooking the indoor swimming pool. The newly-opened wellness centre in the basement offers state-ofthe-art massage, aromatherapy and chocolate-bath facilities, alongside saunas, steam baths and whirlpools. Q171 rooms (36 singles €161 - 218, 108 doubles €146 - 198, 27 suites €186 - 238). PHAR6UIFLEGBKDCW hhhhh Miramar Ive Kaline 11, Opatija, tel. 28 00 00, fax 28 00 28, info@hotel-miramar.info, www.hotel-miramar. hr. With the turreted Villa Neptune as its centrepiece, the Miramar reopened in Spring 2005 as a spectacular modern wellness hotel. Run by the owner of the Salzburgerhof, voted best wellness hotel in Austria - these people know what they’re doing. Q102 rooms (73 doubles €60 - 120, 4 suites €150 - 240, 3 apartments €95 - 135, 22 Junior Suite €95 135). PHARILEGBKDC hhhh Thalassotherapia Opatija-Villa Dubrava Maršala Tita 188/4, Opatija, tel. 20 26 80, fax 20 26 87, villa. dubrava@ri.t-com.hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.hr. The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant. Prices are per room per person. Q43 rooms (22 singles €53 - 58, 21 doubles €42 - 50). PTJHAFGKDC hhh 15 Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. 74 33 33, Wellness Admiral Maršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. 27 15 33, fax 27 17 08, admiral@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia. hr. A great choice if you’re into sport - the Admiral has a large and well equipped fitness centre and two clean, good-sized pools (one indoor with warm sea water), a marina and sailing club. Garage 60kn/day, pets 100kn/ day. Q180 rooms (31 singles €145 - 194, 131 doubles €130 - 174, 6 suites €160 - 214, 12 Junior Suite €160 - 214). PHAR6UIFLEGBKDC hhhh Old-school charm fax 70 63 01, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotel-bristol. hr. This lovely old wedding-cake of a villa has been renovated, but retains a hushed sense of imperial grandeur, with clean lines and restrained colour. There’s a Viennese coffee house, restaurant, wi-fi internet, plus conference facilities for up to 130 with full a/v backup. They have new Spa and Beauty zone (fitness, Whirlpool, Steam bath., Sauna, treatments for women and for men. Q78 rooms (2 singles €85 - 106, 22 doubles €122 - 152, 2 suites €242 - 272, 10 Junior Suite €192 - 222, 20 Double Superior €90 - 157, 22 Double Deluxe €95 162). PTHAR6UFLGBKDW hhhh Imperial Maršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. 27 16 77, fax 27 28 48, imperial@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. In the heart of Opatija, close to the park and the seafront, the Imperial has seen guests such as Emperor Franz Joseph and Isadora Duncan - it was built in 1885. Its period charm is updated with modern wellness facilities. Q126 rooms (24 singles €86 - 126, 102 doubles €76 - 116). PHAIGBK hhh Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. 27 13 79, fax 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villa-ariston. hr. In its heyday, the Kennedys and Coco Chanel stayed at this villa, and happily it’s been brought back to its former glory. The balconies and the view are unsurpassed and the Presidential Suite is splendour itself. The restaurant enjoys a great reputation. Q10 rooms (2 singles €48 - 55, 6 doubles €55 - 89, 1 Presidential Suite €123 - 137, 1 Junior Suite €178 - 192). PHAILGBK hhh Mid-range 27 18 26, istra@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. On the seafront close to the centre and the town beach, the Istra is well equipped for its class, with an indoor swimming pool and a g ym and wellness centre close by. Room service (07:00-22:00) and all-inclusive packages ensure you’ll never go hungry. Pets welcome, 5 EUR/day. Q123 rooms (28 singles €96 - 134, 95 doubles €86 - 124). PTA6UIFLEGBKDC hhh Lovran Šetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. 29 12 22, fax 29 24 67, office@hotel-lovran.hr, www.hotellovran.hr. Two beautifully renovated Habsburg villas in the heart of Lovran providing modern comfort and period charm. There’s a bar, two restaurants, business facilities and a staff who help you enjoy the sea, the town and the surrounding countryside to the full. Q53 rooms (7 singles €31 - 52, 43 doubles €52 - 126, 3 suites €90 - 156). PHA6FD hhh Marina Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. 73 75 04, fax 73 75 84, marina@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Set in the picturesque fishing village of Mošćenička Draga, close to the centre and the wonderfully clean pebble beach. It’s a smaller, comfortable 60s-era hotel with an indoor pool, sauna and diving facilities nearby. Q178 rooms (46 singles €78 - 134, 120 doubles €68 - 124, 12 suites €78 - 140). PHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh Bristol Ulica Maršala Tita 108, Opatija, tel. 70 63 00, Istra Maršala Tita 145, Opatija, tel. 27 12 99, fax  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 16 WHERE TO STAY Mediteran Trg slobode 1, Mošćenička Draga, tel. 73 76 22, fax 73 75 38, mediteran@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia. hr. Modern and simple, good for families with kids, the location overlooking Mošćenička Draga’s glorious beach couldn’t be better. You can use the indoor pool and health centre at the nearby Marina, where you can also organise diving in the pristine sea. Q69 rooms (3 singles €80 - 126, 66 doubles €70 - 116). PAILEGBK hhh Opatija Gortanov trg 2/1, Opatija, tel. 27 13 88, fax 27 13 17, info@hotel-opatija.hr, www.hotel-opatija.hr. A fantastic location at the head of the beautiful park square in the very centre of Opatija, a beautiful big terrace and tennis courts. The art nouveau interior features a lovely indoor pool, sauna and massage. Rooms are more modestly decorated. Q212 rooms (17 singles €49 - 63, 160 doubles €68 - 96, 35 Mansarda €44 - 68). PTHAR6LBKC hh Palace- Bellevue Maršala Tita 144/146, Opatija, tel. 27 18 11/ 27 10 11, fax 27 19 64, palace@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. Two connected imperial buildings in the heart of Opatija. The stunning antique interiors (renovated 2002) and reasonable prices are enough reason to go; the heated seawater pool and sauna are the cherry on the cake. Pets 50kn/day. Q206 rooms (51 singles €96 - 134, 155 doubles €86 - 124). PTHA6IEGBKDC hhh Park Maršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. 70 62 00, fax 29 37 82, sales@hotelparklovran.hr, info@hotelparklovran.hr, www.hotelparklovran.hr. Delightful in duck-egg blue, this classic waterfront villa in the centre of Lovran was renovated and reopened in 2005, complete with restaurant, pool, wellness and meeting facilities. One of the embarrasingly few Croatian hotels that currently has disabled access to all communal areas and some rooms. Q46 rooms (3 singles €58 - 84, 40 doubles €48 - 80, 3 suites €69 - 95). PTHARUFLEGBKDCW hhhh Villa Amalia Pava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel Kvarner), tel. 27 12 33/ 27 19 44, fax 27 12 02, kvarner@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. The pleasant lemon-yellow Kvarner was the first hotel in Opatija, while the Amalia annexe was an official residence of the Hapsburgs. The park location right on the seafront, period furnishings, pools, sauna and massage centre make it a great stay. Q31 rooms (1 single €82 - 114, 30 doubles €72 - 104). HA6ILEGBKDC hh Volosko Črnikovica 11, Volosko, tel./fax 70 14 67, tel. 70 14 68, emin.masinovic@ri.t-com.hr, www. adriatic-pearl.com/hotelvolosko.asp. A modern, family-run apartment hotel in intimate Volosko (famous for its superb restaurants). Rooms are simply and coolly furnished with tiled floors and have sea views. The hotel has a restaurant offering pizzas and pasta dishes. Q14 rooms (4 singles €50, 6 doubles €60 - 80, 1 triple €80 - 90, 3 apartments €100 - 120). PTAR6ILBK hhh Villa Ambasador Feliksa Peršića 3, Opatija, tel. 74 33 33, fax 74 34 44, ambasador@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia. hr. Right on the water’s edge, the Ambasador’s little sister is an agreeable older building, simply and tastefully furnished, surrounded by trees and lawns. You can use the Ambasador’s facilities, park your car and bring your pets by arrangement for an extra charge. Q44 rooms (8 singles €133 - 184, 24 doubles €118 - 164, 10 suites €144 - 194, 2 Presidential Suite €144 - 194). PHAR6IFLGBKDC hhhh WHERE TO STAY peninsula is close to the village of Kraljevica, and is well known for its pleasant shingle beaches. This peaceful campsite has a shop, restaurant and ice cream parlour, plus you can stay in little camp huts. Dogs allowed 11kn/per day. 25 - 33kn/ per person/per day , children (6 - 12 years old) 15 - 21kn/per child/per day, 20 - 25kn for tent , bungalow (1-3 person) 110 169kn/per day an turist tax 4 - 6kn. Q TLBK h 17 Rijeka Hotels 71 00, fax 33 59 69, sales@bonavia.hr, bonavia@ bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. The one to choose if you want luxury in Rijeka itself. Right in the old town, in a 125 year-old building renovated in 2000, it’s part of a luxury chain owned by Mr Štrok, father of Vanya from designer duo Gharani Štrok. Pets welcome free of charge. Q121 rooms (20 singles €130, 85 doubles €160, 9 triples €208, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental apartment €650). PJHAR6FGBKD hhhhh Jadran S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. 21 66 00/ 49 40 10, fax 21 64 58, jadran@jadran-hoteli. hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Rijeka gets its first real seaside hotel back after extensive renovation. The gorgeous period building occupies its own beach in the Pećine neighbourhood, 1km out of the centre (towards Split). It’s been brought up to 4 star standard, and has a restaurant open to the public, a gym, conference facilities and more. Q69 rooms (28 singles €108, 38 doubles €128, 3 suites €162 - 283). PHARUIGBK hhhh Private rooms Cheap places to stay, rooms in private houses also give you the chance to get to know the locals a little and enjoy a family atmosphere. Slada Lukinčić G-2, Ljubljanska cesta 28, Preluk, tel./ fax 27 63 07. Turn right off Ljubljanska at the tyre fitters and go up the narrow road to the top. There you’ll find tranquillity, a warm welcome, and lots and lots of animals to pet. Q2 rooms (2 doubles 160 - 200Kn). TILNG hhh Tatjana Širola Matka Mandića 13, Kastav, tel. 69 10 60/ 091 527 72 27, tatjana.sirola@ri.t-com.hr. A great place to stay if you intend to enjoy a great meal in Kukuriku to the full - i.e. with a drop (or two) of wine. Prices are per person per day. Q2 rooms (2 doubles 80 - 110Kn). NB hh Upmarket Grand Hotel Bonavia C-2, Dolac 4, Rijeka, tel. 35 Camping Autocamp ˝I˝ A. Slatina b.b., Mošćenićka Draga, tel. 73 75 23/ 091 373 75 23, fax 73 73 39, info@ autocampdraga.com, www.autocampdraga.com. The resort is a delightful haven of green with a sparkling beach, and the camp site is as well-equipped as you could wish there’s even a night guard. 29-38kn/person/night + 7kn tourist tax; 28kn for your pitch and 21-26kn/car. Q hhh Oštro Oštro bb, Kraljevica, tel. 28 12 18/ 098 46 12 98, fax 28 14 04, novi-turist@ri.t-com.hr, campingostro@ net.hr, www.novi-turist.hr. The pine forested Oštro Islands Alhambra Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. 23 20 22, fax 23 20 42, alhambra@jadranka.t-com.hr, www.losinjhotels.com. Simple and small, but with the good fortune being set in a beautiful Mediterranean villa with lofty ceilings and high windows. You’re on the bay of Čikat, with its thick pine forests, imperial architecture, good beaches, and a 1km trot from the centre of town. Q40 rooms (40 doubles €41 - 76). TA6LBK hh Apoksiomen Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1, Mali Lošinj, tel. 52 08 20, fax 52 08 30, hotel@apoksiomen. com, www.apoksiomen.com. In prime position on the waterfront of this lively little fishing town, the hotel named after the bronze statue of Greek athlete recently found in the waters near here is in a fully renovated captain’s villa. Comfortable accommodation, stylish surroundings and a friendly, individual approach. Prices are per room per night including breakfast. Q rooms (1 suite €160 - 210, 9 25 Double Superior €87 - 145, 16 Double Deluxe €80 - 165). PHAR6UGBKW hhhh Bellevue Čikat bb, Mali Lošinj, tel. 23 12 22, fax 23 12 68, nada.mitrovic@jadranka.t-com.hr; hotel. bellevue@jadranka.t-com.hr, www.losinj-hotels. com. Tests by the Innsbruck Institute of Microbiology found a low concentration of allergens here, and you can get non-allergenic bedding and rooms without carpets on request. A lovely warm seawater indoor pool, gym, sauna and massage facilities, conference rooms and woodland location on the Bay of Čikat. Q226 rooms (60 singles 247 - 270Kn, 166 doubles 210 - 277Kn). THAUFLEGBKDC hhh Marina Emila Antića 78, Selce, tel. 76 81 40, fax 76 81 37, info@hotel-marina.net, www.hotel-marina. net. Perhaps the most stunning thing about this bright new hotel near the beach resort Selce is the grassy sunbathing terrace overlooking the sea. There’s a good indoor pool, rooms are nice and spacious and bathrooms have massage showers, there’s a playroom and conference and banqueting facilities. Prices are per person per day. Q50 rooms (12 singles 375 - 427Kn, 32 doubles 285 330Kn, 5 suites 512Kn, 1 Presidental suite 512 - 542Kn). HAUFLEGBKDC hhhh Punta Šestavine bb, Veli Lošinj, tel. 66 20 00, fax 23 63 01, hotel-punta@jadranka.t-com.hr, www. losinj-hotels.com. A rather nice complex in peaceful Veli Lošinj, the newer part has candy-coloured blocks with modern apartments overlooking the Blue Flag beach, while the older part offers simpler rooms. An excellent wellness centre and ample facilities for fun and frolics for young and not-so-young. Q 234 rooms (62 singles 300 - 352Kn, 119 doubles 225 - 277Kn, 53 Family rooms 240 - 292Kn). PTHAFLEBKDC hhh Selce Šetalište Ivana Jeličića 14, Selce, tel. 76 82 22, fax 76 82 23, info@hotel-selce.com, www. hotel-selce.com. Nicely renovated, this mid-sized family run hotel has tastefully decorated, spacious rooms with air conditioning and mini bar, a restaurant and conference hall plus great views of the Kvarner gulf. You’re close to the heart of the lively resort of Selce with good beaches, cafés and restaurants. Q91 rooms (70 doubles €46 156, 5 apartments €64 - 349, 16 Attic Rooms €39 - 130). POHARUILGKDW hhh 49 32 00, fax 49 32 99, neboder@jadran-hotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. Recently renovated from top to bottom, the Neboder offers small but neat rooms with crisp lines, new carpets and fittings, and just enough space to fit in a desk, a TV, and a tiny balcony. Although at least one room on each floor faces inland, all the others come with extravagant views of the sea, the port, and central Rijeka’s rooftops. Built in the 1920s, the building itself (Neboder means ‘skyscraper’) is something of a monument to Croatian modern architecture. Q54 rooms (8 singles €61 - 66, 46 doubles €76 - 82). singles 437kndoubles 533kn. P J H A 6 I L G K hhh Mid-range Neboder F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. 37 35 38/ Apartment rental Villa Marija Nova cesta 80, Opatija, tel. 70 39 55, fax 70 39 40, villa-marija@hi.t-com.hr, www.villa-marijaopatija.com. A well-equipped modern villa close to the centre of Opatija. Terraces have sea views, and guests can barbecue to their hearts’ content in the garden. All rooms have internet access and kitchens with coffee makers. Small pets allowed free of charge. Q11 rooms (5 apartments €79 - 139, 1 Studio apartment €59 - 79, 5 Deluxe apartment €99 - 159). PHA6ILGBDC hhhh 23, tel. 40 64 20, fax 40 64 21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Rijeka’s clean and cozy hostel opened in winter 2006 in a fully renovated, fine old building in the genteel suburb of Pećine 15min walk or a short bus ride from the centre of town. Super accommodation, with a great restaurant area and TV room, plus internet point. Prices are per person per night. Q14 rooms (singles €19 - 21, 3 doubles €19 - 21, 4 4-bed €16 - 18, 1 5-bed €16 - 18, 3 6-bed €16 - 18, 2 8-bed €16 - 18). TAGBK Hostel Youth hostel Rijeka R/S-3, Šetalište XIII.divizije Camping San Marino Lopar bb, Rab, tel. 77 51 33/ 77 51 Budget Belvedere Ive Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. 27 10 44, fax 27 14 84, belvedere@liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. A little out of the centre in a lush, forested park, the Belvedere has a private beach, swimming pool and car park, and is right on the waterfront. It’s a quiet spot if you need a little rest and recuperation.Prices halfboard per person per day. Pets welcome for 60kn/day. Q95 rooms (13 singles €84 - 126, 82 doubles €74 - 116). A6ILEGBKDC hh 34, fax 77 52 90, ac-sanmarino@imperial.hr, www. imperial.hr. This great camp is located 12 km from Rab, in Lopar, along an exquisite sand beach making it ideal for families with kids. It has great sport and recreational facilities. Per person you’ll pay 25- 43kn per day, children 13-25kn per child/per day, car 12-19kn per day, tent 18-30kn per day, van 22-70kn per day. Your dog is welcome for 22-27kn per day. Q A6EBK hhh www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 Summer 2008 18 RESTAURANTS Symbol key P E T G O R Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking N No Credit cards 6 Animal friendly 30 00, tel. 098 32 27 20, korkyra1@ri.t-com.hr, www. municipium.hr. Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. Traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70-150kn). PAG Nono Frane Viškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. 25 62 44, info@ nono-frane.hr, www.nono-frane.hr. Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALGB Oštarija pul belega S-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. 21 63 82, fax 25 85 36, pul-belega@vip.hr. Full of local atmosphere, Pul Beluga is a neighbourhood eatery with a pleasant terrace, definitely not glamorous, but a favourite place of Rijeka’s journalists for a working lunch. The menu includes Istrian specialities, inexpensive shellfish and roast lamb. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (60-150kn). PAGB Ronjgi Ronjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. 25 60 38, fax 25 80 16, guido@ronjgi.com.hr. In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-150kn). ALGB RESTAURANTS Municipium D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel./fax 21 19 Tipping Tipping is generally left at the customers discretion, though most foreigners will tend to reward good service with a 10% gratuity. International white and wrought iron with elegant table settings, Brun has classic seafood offerings and is a favourite place with locals for an inexpensive midday meal. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Sun. (38-75kn). PAG Indigo D-2, Stara vrata 3, Koblerov trg, tel. 31 51 74, indigo@indigo.com.hr, www.indigo.com.hr. An ultramodern dining room resplendent in funky red (is someone colour-blind?) and pop-art styling, with a great courtyard terrace in one of the oldest parts of town. Their contemporary interpretations of Mediterranean and Croatian classics are finger-lickin’ good, and we found the staff swift and friendly. QOpen , Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAB Kamov C-2, Dolac 4, tel. 35 78 17, fax 33 59 69, www. bonavia.hr. Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PALG Opium Buddha Lunch Bar C-2, Riva 12, tel. 091 589 98 44/ 091 895 36 17. Style-heavy lounge-restaurant decked out in a groovy combination of purples, reds and blacks. The food is reassuringly straightforward, however, with plenty of risottos and pastas in the 40kn-50kn range, alongside pricier steaks and fish. A great place for an inexpensive lunch in expensive-looking surroundings - although the twee Dalmatian pop-folk that served as background music during In Your Pocket’s visit didn’t do much for the intended air of sophistication. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Skopski merak Dobriše Cesarića 21, tel. 62 64 24/ 091 160 29 66, fax 62 63 94, gustus@ri.t-com.hr, www. skopski-merak.hr. Some way out of town in the hillside suburb of Srdoci, this Macedonian-themed restaurant is a great place to tuck into south-Balkan lamb and pork dishes washed down with some excellent Macedonian wines. Prices are eminently reasonable, and the interior artfully recreates the atmosphere of a nineteenth-centur y Macedonian inn. Merak, by the way, is one of those strangely poetic Macedonian words that means something inbetween wistful yearning and loving affection - an appropriate description for the way these people cook. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PALGB Brun E-3, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 21 25 44. Stylish in clean Konoba A “konoba” is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian coast – simple and traditional, although some modern versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them. Blato F-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. 33 69 70/ 098 45 04 46, fax 21 12 31, blato-1902-ri@ri.t-com.hr, www. blato1902.hr. In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere. QOpen 06:30 22:00. Closed Sun. PAG Girica N-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. 67 72 20, fax 67 36 32. Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant and cosy restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50-150kn). PAL Kod Ive J-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel./fax 62 62 65. This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. LNGB Pod voltun D-2, Pod voltun 15, tel. 33 08 06. A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod). QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (15-260kn). PAB Tarsa R-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. 45 20 89, fax 45 20 90, rojan@ri.t-com.hr, www.konoba-tarsa. net. The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, country-style surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. PAULEGBS There’s a temptingly broad range of restaurants in Rijeka, with fresh seafood a speciality. For a truly memorable meal however you should be prepared to travel: there are some wonderfully amospheric inns in the hillside settlements above Rijeka, and some truly great restaurants in the Opatija Riviera towns of Volosko, Opatija and Lovran. Fast food 18 08, info@hamby.hr, www.hamby.hr. Fast food but not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including soya - and pizza cuts. This new Hamby at the railway station does pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too. Also near Korzo at Ante Starčevića 11 (E-2), tel. 33 06 53. Open all night. Lifesaving! Open 00:00 - 24:00. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. PNGB McDonald’s D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1, tel. 33 51 77, fax 21 50 24, www.mcdonalds.hr. If you can’t bear to be separated from your golden arches, you’ll be delighted with Rijeka’s McDs - its in a gorgeous yellow building that used to house Rijeka’s historic coffee house. Sacrilege! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBS Pizza Cut Planet E-1, Žrtava fašizma 1, tel. 33 53 35. Triangles of dough covered with tomato and cheese. Also circles! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (6-50kn). PNGS Sandwich Bar Punto Q-3, Scarpina 3, tel. 33 61 21, fastpuntofood@gmail.com. Pick up sandwiches and burgers. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (9-27kn). PNS Tomato E-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. 31 11 22. Pizza cuts from 7kn near the ferry terminal. QOpen 09:30 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:30. Hamby B-2, Krešimirova 10, tel. 33 25 35, fax 33 Croatian These restaurants usually combine seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia. Šmrika Marčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. 65 10 20, fax 65 10 90, smrika@smrika.hr, www.smrika. hr. A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato’ plus many more wines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGB Konoba Nebuloza F-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. 37 22 94. Although it calls itself a‘konoba’(a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches.The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch. Main courses35-75kn. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PA  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 20 RESTAURANTS 098 26 08 35, fax 71 10 98, comeprima@inet.hr, www.istranka.com. A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behing Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment - worth tracking down. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40-120kn). PAB Johnson Sveti Petar bb, Moščenićka Draga, tel. 73 75 78/ 73 78 33, fax 73 74 96. This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALB Konoba Nada Glavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. 85 70 65, fax 85 72 05, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www.nada-vrbnik. com. If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAB Konoba Ribice Ulica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. 091 184 13 01. As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (30-70kn). NB Kukuriku Trg Matka Laginje 1a, Kastav, tel. 69 14 17, fax 68 74 70, kukuriku@ri.t-com.hr, www.kukuriku. hr. “Slow food” - several courses representing the best of the season, each accompanied by a glass of outstanding wine. With a wonderful location in old Kastav and a terrace overlooking the whole of Kvarner, Kukuriku is a gastronomic highlight of the region. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (150-300kn). PAB RESTAURANTS Istranka Bože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. 27 18 35/ Laurus Nova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. 74 13 55, fax 74 13 56, laurus@sagita.hr, www.villa-kapetanovic. hr. Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALB Le Mandrać Obala Frane Supila 10, Volosko, tel. 70 13 57, fax 74 10 99, restaurant@lemandrac.com, www. lemandrac.com. Something rather special - a contemporary space with beautiful deck seating on the waterfront, offering “traditional” and “avant garde” menus which may be taken as “slow food” - multiple courses to be savoured among friends. The latest big news in dining in the region. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (300-500kn). PAGB Lovranska vrata Stari grad 94, Lovran, tel. 29 10 50. With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town, directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities. (30-150kn). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. JAGB Mali raj Maršala Tita 191, Opatija, tel./fax 70 40 74, tel. 091 470 40 74, mali.raj@ri.t-com.hr, www.mali-raj. hr. Part of a large and upscale guesthouse overlooking the sea, the “little heaven” restaurant offers a huge choice of excellent seafood and meat dishes and good pizzas. Prices are rather reasonable, and the terrace is gorgeous. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50-600kn). ALGB NaJade Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. 29 18 66, fax 29 11 56, mato.miskovic@inet.hr. Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAB 21 Tapas Bar E-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 5, tel. 31 53 13. Small, chic space just off the Korzo offering a delicious range of local wines and tapas-style nibbles - although the culinary inspiration is Croatian rather than Spanish. Choice morsels of squid, black ravioli in seafood sauce, and porkchop pieces in plum sauce are just some of the delights on offer - all priced at about 25-35kn. Portions are on the small side, however, so it’s best to order a table-full if you’re in hungry mood. Enormously popular at lunchtime, when you’ll have to reserve in advance, or wait. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAB Lunch on the cheap inn up in the hilly outskirts west of Rijeka. Home cooking at decent prices. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (20-120kn). PALB La Grotta D-2, Šime Ljubića 8, tel. 091 722 72 28. The “Grotto” is imaginatively decorated with - yes, you guessed it - stalactites, and they serve not raw bear steaks or mud tart with wild berry coulis, but a normal selection of meats (cooked), fish stew (bakalar), goulash and tuna on the grill. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. PNG Ri - Self service D-2, Riva 6, tel. 31 10 26, fax 31 10 Mornar D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. 31 32 57/ 091 257 12 03. Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch. Mornar (“the sailor”) serves mainly meat dishes, plus a few fish specialities. Try lamb lešo - cooked with vegetables - or barbecued smoked ribs. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (15-45kn). PLGBS Pečenjara Žal B-1, F. La Guardia 10a, tel. 21 10 64. Fried fish for Fridays! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. Closed Sun. (21-40kn). PNG 51. For a fast, cheap, square meal if you’re waiting for a ferry, you couldn’t do better than RI (the Rijeka city code). It looks a bit canteen-like, but offers some local specialities such as jota (sauerkraut soup) and has a big salad bar. They serve booze, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20-60kn). PAGB Ferdinand Marčelji 30, tel. 62 42 60. A cosy, family-run Out of town 16, amfora@restaurant-amfora.com, www.restaurantamfora.com. Long regarded as one of the finest restaurants on the Opatija Riviera, Amfora has an antique-style interior and a lovely terrace with a sea view. A classic fish restaurant, also with excellent meats and an extensive wine list. 10% cash discount. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50-500kn). PALGB Amfora Črnikovica 4, Volosko, tel. 70 12 22, fax 74 10 Bevanda Zert 8, Opatija, tel. 71 27 72, fax 71 83 54, restaurant-bevanda@ri.t-com.hr, www.bevanda.hr. Once considered one of Croatia’s best fish restaurants, slipping standards (particularly of service) have recently allowed the crown be passed on to others. However, the terrace is gorgeous, and it’s still one of the classiest restaurants in Opatija itself. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. (50-500kn). PALB Bracera Kvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel./fax 85 87 00, konoba@bracera.hr, www.bracera.hr. This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” - sardines or similar. Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50-300kn). PNGB Commodore Liburnijska b.b., Ičići, tel. 70 40 49, fax 70 41 47, kristina_sunce@yahoo.com. A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (22-360kn). PAGB Dopolavoro Učka 9, Ičići, tel. 29 96 41/ 091 222 53 35, fax 29 96 49, www.dopolavoro.hr. If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (80-200kn). ALGB Draga di Lovrana Lovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. 27 76 89, fax 29 18 26, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www. dragadilovrana.hr. Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PALB Gospoja Frankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. 85 71 42, fax 85 74 63, gospoja@vrbnik.net, www.gospoja.hr. Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40-180kn). PALB www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 22 RESTAURANTS Vongola Maršala Tita 113, Opatija, tel. 71 18 54/ 091 252 99 21, fax 70 41 65, marina@rivijera-opatija. hr, www.rivijera-opatija.hr. At the east end of the beach, it’s simple, cheap and inescapably a bit plasticky to cater for the swimmers. It serves respectable food - fish, steaks, pizza, pasta, risottos and veggie options. A good place to combine an al fresco lunch with a spot of bathing. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (50-180kn). B In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a “bijela kava” (white coffee). Dolce Bolero D-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. 33 03 43/ 37 23 50, bolero_commerce@net.hr. A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brick-red walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order. Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splattersomeone-in-the-face confectionary assault. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB Ero E-3, Verdieva 3a, tel. 33 79 02. In a lovely and tranquil spot by the National Theatre and the market, Ero has a treeshaded terrace and is a soothing place to sit inside on rainy days. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNB Ferrari D-2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. 33 12 15. It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNGB Fiorello Pub D-2, Korzo 2D, tel. 33 13 90. A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Gradina R-2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. 098 21 31 24/ 091 154 10 65, kfonovic@inet. hr, www.bascinskiglasi.hr. You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress - which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum. QOpen 09:00 24:00. JB Iskra D-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. 21 14 06, fax 21 33 55. Zebra print seating and pink neon lighting serve as an unwanted reminder of the 1980s, but Iskra has a nice terrace and a wine cellar. You could do far worse than spend an evening lingering over a bottle of Dingač or Ivan Dolac both gutsy southern reds. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNGB CAFÉS 23 Seafood forum@ri.t-com.hr. Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu - which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (25-330kn). PAGBS Na kantunu E-3, Demetrova 2, tel. 31 32 71/ 21 13 61, fax 21 13 62. Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices. A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables, but clean and comfortable nonetheless. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community. (30-90kn). QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PGS Zlatna školjka C-2, Kružna 12a, tel. 21 37 82, fax 32 13 39, zlatna.skoljka@ri.t-com.hr. In the heart of the city, just off Korzo, Zlatna Školjka has long enjoyed the reputation as one of the city’s classiest restaurants. The seafood is indeed great (meat is on the menu too), and the comfortable interior is a soothing balance of modern seating and quirky antique decorations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PABX Feral E-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. 21 22 74, brodokomerc. Opatija Cafes Opatija, tel. 20 20 00, fax 20 20 20, hotelimilenij@ ri.t-com.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana - a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescent-shaped terrace whatever the weather. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PALB Design hotel Astoria Ulica maršala Tita 174, Opatija, tel. 70 63 50, fax 70 63 51, info@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotel-astoria.hr. One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails. Open from April,01. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALB Grand Cafe Viktora Cara Emina 6, Opatija, tel. 27 84 97, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Plonked conveniently on Opatija’s main thoroughfare, the comfy armchairs of the Grand Café provide the perfect environment in which to tuck into an extravagant array of cakes and pastries,backed up by decent coffee and velvety hot chocolate.The hand-made sweets make great gifts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Choco bar Maršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel./fax 60 35 62, www,kraschocobar.com. Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant - in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-and-coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolate-plus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB Palma Ulica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), Opatija, tel. 70 63 18, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotel-bristol.hr. Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time. QOpen 08:00 23:00. PAGB Café Wagner Maršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. 70 12 23/ 098 25 75 73, fax 74 11 95, dkramari@ inet.hr, www.plavi-podrum.com. A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGB Sv. Jakov M. Tita 109, Opatija, tel. 20 20 00, fax 27 80 21, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. A beautiful space within the 5 star Hotel Milenij, Sveti Jakov wisely offers a small selection of dishes with local accents, beautifully prepared, at surprisingly sensible prices. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALB Taverna Yacht Club Zert 1, Opatija, tel. 27 23 45, fax 74 10 21, gpstanic@ri.t-com.hr, www.yacht-clubopatija.com. A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour - enjoy a walk through the lovely park to het there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well worth a try. Friendly and comfortable. QOpen 08:00 24:00. (35-350kn). PAB Villa Ariston Maršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. 27 13 79, fax 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villa-ariston. hr. The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperial-style dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70-90kn). PALGB Villa Astra Viktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. 29 44 00, fax 29 46 00, villa.astra@lovranske-vile.com, www.lovranske-vile.com. Intimate dining in the antique dining room of exquisite Villa Astra, one of the loveliest boutique hotels on the coast. The menu is as small and perfectly formed as the hotel, with selected seasonal dishes presenting flavours from Kvarner and Istria. QOpen 07:30 22:00. PAGB Plavi podrum Obala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, Pizza There’s a temptingly broad range of restaurants in Rijeka, with fresh seafood a speciality. For a truly memorable meal however you should be prepared to travel: there are some wonderfully amospheric inns in the hillside settlements above Rijeka, and some truly great restaurants in the Opatija Riviera towns of Volosko, Opatija and Lovran. Bracera C-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. 32 24 98. A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality, Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGB Delfino D-2, Trg Jurja Klovića b.b., tel. 33 67 36, fax 29 31 31, www.delfino.hr. The Lovran location is well known for having one of the best pizzerias in the Rijeka region, so we were especially happy when they opened a Rijeka operation too. The food is a “cut” above the average, with an especially atmospheric terrace in one of the oldest parts of town. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJAGB Kokolo L-2, Zametska 58, tel. 26 33 94, fax 68 51 17, www.kokolo.hr. On the road leading west from Rijeka towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for hours. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. (50-160kn). PAGBS Pampas V-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. 21 90 58. A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (13-40kn). PNBS Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 24 CAFÉS Pucci E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 2, tel. 33 19 65. A miniature café, beloved by locals, with a pleasant terrace near the end of Korzo. Closed Sun. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PNGB Ritz E-2, Sokol-Kula 13, tel. 33 94 75. Sit on the little square where the statue of the lady carrying enormous milk churns is, and feel guilty as hell. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PNB Sabrage R-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. 091 793 15 36. Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PNGB Voyager A-1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. 33 78 95. Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super (air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink or snack. QOpen 05:30 - 24:00. PNB NIGHTLIFE 25 Desserts Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we grew up with), don’t miss the homemade version in a slastičarna. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum. Slastičarne are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. These are sometimes nosmoking establishments due to the presence of little munchkins. Rijeka is a dynamic, restless, party-hard city whose list of nightlife opportunities seems to grow with every passing season. The nearby Opatija Riviera can appear somewhat sleepy in comparison, but still boasts a discreet handful of highly individual bars. indigo@indigo.com.hr, www.indigo.com.hr. A creative new venture, right by the Roman Gate, the oldest monument in Rijeka. Styled like a 21st century bordello as seen by Andy Warhol, it’s a super restaurant which turns into a night bar after 11pm, with DJs laying down excellent electronic grooves. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 04:00. Closed Sun. PAGB Rozi E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 11, tel. 33 84 23. Favoured by Rijeka’s student crowd, Rozi is a little scruffy, which gives it a laid-back feel. Cheap drinks and snacks are accompanied by lively music, conversation, gesticulation and mastication. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNGB Teta Roža S-3, Kumičićeva 55. Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Indigo D-2, Stara vrata 3, Koblerov trg, tel. 31 51 74, Bars Carpe Diem F-1, Križanićeva 3, tel. 098 87 43 33, carpediem-ri@net.hr. Turquoise walls and a swirly blue mosaic on the floor lend a vaguely maritime ambience to this slightly kooky café-bar behind the Continental hotel. Deliberately uncoordinated furniture (giving you a choice between bar stool, sofa or armchair) provides the place with a lounge-around-in-your-own-living-room sense of snugness. Look out for occasional live jazz and DJ-driven party nights at weekends - there’ll be a poster in the window telling you what’s on. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. P Dva lava E-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. 33 23 90, fax 51 57 33, www.2lava.hr. Nothing to do with volcanoes - the name means “Two Lions”. A popular hangout on two floors and with two terraces (one with a cool lounge area), 2 Lava has a fine atmosphere, is futuristically-styled in black and chrome, and offers a good wine list along with champagne, cocktails and cigars. DJs guest on weekends and keep the doors open ‘til morning. . QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB El Rio C-2, Jadranski trg 4c, tel./fax 21 44 28, el-rio@ el-rio.hr, www.el-rio.hr. A spacious cafe-bar at the beginning of the Korzo boasting an ancient bare-brick arched ceiling, El Rio is something of a Rijeka classic, pulling in a broad cross-section of local caffeine addicts during the daylight hours before filling up with a young, energetic and hormonally charged crowd at night. Frequent karaoke sessions, and DJs at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PNGB Charlie Bar D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera bb, tel. 095 906 27 36, fax 22 76 62, moris90@hotmail.com. Charlies has a pleasant, pubby feel and a lovely outside seating area on a square by a fountain. Rijeka’s younger generations (whatever that means) have chosen it as one of their favourite spots for hanging out, day or night. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PNGB 10 19. High up in the big RI department store, you can enjoy the view over the harbour as you devour your weekly calorific intake all in one go. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PAGB Kosi toranj E-2, Pul Vele crikve 1, tel. 33 62 14. Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. PNB Latino E-2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. 33 66 87, fax 33 66 87. A nice arty little café with good cakes near the 2 Lava bar. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. PNB Laval D-2, Riva 8, tel. 33 88 82. Right in front of the ferry terminal, a classy café with a shady terrace and an excellent wine list. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. PNGB Mali Cafe D-2, Korzo 18a, tel. 33 56 06/ 091 253 79 12, vsilvio1@gmail.com. One of the most nicestest cafes, right on trendy Korzo, all sophisticated in black and white. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB Picasso E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 1a, tel. 31 54 16. Lively and often spinning house music for the kids, Picasso is bright, clean, air-conditioned and has a dual-purpose terrace for supping coffee and slurping Ledo ice cream. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. PNGB Piramida F-2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. 37 11 81. A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PNG Premier D-2, Andrije Medulića 7, tel. 21 54 02. The terrace in the street that winds up to St Vitus’ Cathedral kicks tush. Inside all is mellow wood and rock music. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNGB Kavana RI C-2, Riva 6 (Shopping centre RI), tel. 31 Cont F-1, Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića 1, tel. 37 21 Casinos Casino Ri D-2, Trg 111. brigade hrv. vojske, tel. 31 12 46, fax 31 12 44, casino.rijeka@lutrija.hr, www.lutrija. hr. The “Nina” boat, long a favourite spot for Rijeka nightlife, was revamped and reopened in November 2005 as a casino. Apart from the range of slot machines, Midnight Roulette is a special attraction. Everyone who enters the casino around midnight gets a coupon and may win 1000kn plus enters the jackpot competition! Fridays and Saturdays you can join the throng in the Nina nightclub, rocking to Balkan party tunes (22:30-06:00). QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. P Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. 71 91 81, fax 71 90 15, www.adriatic-hotel.hr. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. 54, fax 37 16 30, magna@ri.t-com.hr, www.cont.hr. A multitude of original cakes and ice creams are prepared on-site in the historic patisserie of the Hotel Continental. Imperial elegance rules inside, while the terrace has a wonderful view over Tito’s Square and the new bridge. An internet “hotspot” - free wireless access. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. (8-13kn). PAGB Coretto Maršala Tita 119, Opatija, tel. 71 27 86/ 098 24 08 44. By the west end of the beach, a modern place, bright and cheerful, with great cakes, hot chocolate and ice cream. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 02:00. PNGB Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 26 NIGHTLIFE Pubs bard@caffebard.com, www.caffebard.com. A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Conoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PNGB Češka pivnica E-1, Titov trg 6, tel. 098 928 18 00, info@ceskapivnica.com, www.ceskapivnica.com. This L-shaped tunnel of a place is one of Rijeka’s best-loved beer halls, thanks in large part to the presence of Czech ales such as Pilsener Urquell lager and Kozel stout on draught. The bar menu features plenty in the steak and pork-chop line, although the goulash with Czech dumplings for 35Kn stands out as one of the best-value and tastiest feeds you’ll find in town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PA Arca Fiumana C-2, Adamićev gat bb, tel. 31 90 84, fax 31 90 85, arcafiumana@ri.t-com.hr. A nice, simple sea pub and restaurant in a rustic, old-fashioned boat style. Feast on reasonably-priced fish dishes plus šurlice - a pasta speciality from Krk island with goulash or prosciutto and mushrooms. (20-100 kn) QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGB Belgian beer caffe D-2, Trg Republike Hrvatske 2, tel. 21 21 48/ 21 23 45, fax 21 23 45, d.e.l.tours@ ri.t-com.hr, www.ugostiteljstvo-as.com. Another woodsy “real” pub, huge and with an extensive menu featuring daily set menus and veggie platters. The terrace between Korzo and Riva demands you rest your weary limbs on a hot day. The food’s not very Belgian. The beer is. Or at least some of it. So are the prices. QOpen 06:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 02:00. PAGB Phanas pub D-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. 31 23 77, fax 32 23 77, phanas@phanas.hr, www.phanas.hr. A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNG River pub D-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. 21 34 06, www. river-pub.hr. With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka. (jazz, rock, karaoke..) QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 04:00. PN WHAT TO SEE Celtic Caffe Bard E-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. 21 52 35, Rijeka’s main sights have been labelled with plaques and brought together in a walking tour called the “Tourist Route” – or Turistička magistrala. You can see all the places marked with numbers on the map at the back of this guide. Here are the potted histories of these landmarks. For the full story, check out www.tz-rijeka.hr. We’ve included some other landmarks which we think may also be interesting for you. and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. Th ere is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To th e ama zem en t of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1922. 27 Essential Rijeka Gradski toranj, Gradska vrata (The City Tower and City Gate) D-2, Korzo. Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today. Clubs Booka M-2, Zvonimirova 14, bookamail@gmail.com. Friendly and unpretentious alternative rock bar that pulls in a broad cross-section of tattooed-and-pierced metal freaks, sensitive intellectual types, and inquisitive high-school kids who are bored with mainstream dance-pop dreck. Regular live acts squeeze onto the tiny stage with just about enough room for a drum kit (the rest of the band spills into the audience). As the icing on the cake, the well-stocked bar sells bottles of Velebitsko, Croatia’s most underrated beer. Located 20 minutes’ walk from the centre, opposite the OMV gas station, it’s well worth the hike. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Disco Seven Maršala Tita 125, Opatija, tel. 099 477 70 00/ 098 45 08 47, info@discoseven.hr, www. discoseven.hr. We hope the new club run by the Hemingway boys and girls will put the sparkle back in Opatija clubbing. A vocal and funky house DJ lineup, with “Harem’B” Thursdays, a house night Fridays, Disco Vibes on Saturdays and a 80s and 90s retro night Sundays. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. PALB Hurricane! Cocktail bars Hemingway D-2, Korzo 28, tel. 21 16 96/ 098 983 42 18, fax 21 16 13, www.hemingway.hr. Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Rijeka’s Hemingway is perhaps the prettiest example, housed in a beautiful Austro-Hungarian building which - formerly known as the Filodrammatica - has served as Rijeka’s prime coffeedrinking and cocktail-sipping venue for several generations. The airy colonial theme works beautifully. Fine drinks and cigars, a snack menu and dance music ‘til late. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. PAGB Karolina D-2, Gat Karoline Riječke b.b., tel. 33 09 09/ 21 14 47. Spectacular inside and out - a beautiful glass structure designed by Sonja Miculinić, who also designed the new Slovenian parliament. Right on the quayside with a full view of the ferries, the quayside terrace, super drinks including good wines and champagnes and great music make this sure to be the “in” place this summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PNB Opium Buddha bar C-2, Riva 12a, tel. 091 589 98 44/ 091 895 36 17. Regardless of what the name might lead you to believe, there’s little chance of getting mixed up with either class A drugs or spiritual enlightenment in what is essentially a basic boys-ogle-the-girls disco pub, featuring moody and ever-so-slightly-sensuous red lighting, an entrailshaking sound system, and a long bar perfect for propping up. The drinks are on the pricy side, but this is a reliable Friday-night choice nevertheless. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PGB Rijeka In Your Pocket Gay It’s true, you know. Anyway, enough about etymology. Try the following site for English-language info on tourism in general and the gay scene in specific, both in and around Rijeka as well as the rest of Croatia: www. touristinfo.gay.hr  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 1, tel. 35 59 00/ 35 59 07, fax 35 59 82, zajc@hnkzajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr. This is one of the proofs that it’s really true to say that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, the theatre was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. Katedrala sv. Vida (St Vitus Cathedral) D-1, Grivica 11. Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc (The Croatian National Theatre Ivan Zajc) E-3, Uljarska Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005. www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 28 WHAT TO SEE Korzo (The Corso) C/D-2, Korzo. The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here. Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja (The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Litto D-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel./fax 21 35 War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. WHAT TO SEE 29 78, tel. 55 36 66, pomorski-povijesni-muzej@ri.htnet. hr, www.ppmhp.hr. Rijeka’s most important historical setpiece is located inside the splendid Governor’s Palace, which is in itself reason to go. Things kick off in the entrance hall with models of the ships which once plied the waters of the Kvarner Gulf. A glass cabinet displays an original lifejacket from the Titanic - one of only a handful in existence. The lifejacket was donated to the museum by local seafarer Josip Car, who served on the Carpathia, one of the ships that was sent to the scene of the Titanic tragedy to pick up survivors. Upstairs, a stunning sequence of period apartments display furnishings, paintings and sculpture colleced by generations of rich merchants and state bureaucrats. Don’t miss the ethnographic collection on the ground floor, where traditional costumes, domestic utensils and agricultural implements provide an evocative sense of how Kvarner folk lived a century or so ago. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Riječka luka (Port of Rijeka) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Carl VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. Since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods now stands at more than 11 million tons. One thing that hasn’t changed is Rijeka’s extremely favourable location. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more. Forecasts show that by 2010 there will be so much demand from such markets that the capacity of the seaports in the Northern Adriatic will be saturated. There is a very concrete opportunity for Rijeka to exponentially increase its volume of business. Riječki mostovi (Rijeka’s Bridges) F-1/2 / E-2, . “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these. Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see below) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war. (see “Landmarks” below). Fans of WWII history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s Partizans. Adamić witnesses Simeon Adamić was a wealthy merchant who built a lot of wonderful buildings in Rijeka, including a theatre (pulled down long ago). People sometimes were jealous of his apparent luck, so when they heard that one day he had found some archeological remains on his estate, they reported him to the authorities, saying that he had found treasure. He was sent to prison for not reporting the find. He was eventually released, since it was decided that the remains were not really worth worrying about. Then, he cunningly decorated the frontage his beautiful house on the Rječina riverbank in Sušak with grotesque busts of the 14 people who had falsely accused him. How embarrassing! Nowadays, these busts stand in the statue park in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. State Archives in Rijeka Stara vrata (The Roman Gate) D-2, Trg Julija Klovića. Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijake, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs. Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived. Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 30 WHAT TO SEE Sušak - Pećine Q-4 / S-3, . The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb “sušiti” - “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. She wrote one book, “Tales of Long Ago”. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument. Trsat S-1, . Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising t h e for t re s s an d church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller ch urch, a sp or ts hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are h eld), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, an d th e ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), and also became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian Rijeka In Your Pocket empire, wh o even tuall y made his home here and establish ed a museum. Sadl y, th e museum n o longer exists. There are at tracti ve underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus 1 or 1a. WHAT TO SEE Fountains Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains. Before the city had a water system, they m a d e u s e o f th e many springs which have their source in the very centre. Some of these being underground, public washing facilities and drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing places wh ere th e inhabitants would gather and catch up with the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone since the building of the modern water system, but in more recent years decorative fountains have been built that give the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat. C-2, Jadranski trg. Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.. A-2, Krešimirova. Just opposite the railway station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873. D - 2 , Ko b le r o v t r g . A p er fe c t symb ol of th e interplay between Rijeka’s industrial h eri ta ge an d wa ter: togeth er fundamental elements of the c i t y ’ s i d e n t i t y. Two millstones, complete wi th their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first pap er mill (se e “Industrial Rijeka” below) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of its 150th anniversary. 31 Javna slavina (The public drinking fountain) Stari kolodrob (The old paper millstones) Fontana Jadranski trg (The Jadranski trg fountain) Velika tržnica (City market) E-3, Verdieva. Together wi th th e nearby Na ti onal T h ea tre an d i ts park, th e Modello Palace and numerous residential, commercial and industrial buildings, th e Ci t y Market for m s a sup er urban architectural complex. At its core are b eau ti ful ar t n o u ve a u m a r k e t halls, especially the li vel y fish market, which is in an imp osin g Li b er t y style building with charming mouldings by famous Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso of the poor crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate. Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high with fresh local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of the world. The market is a good place for speciality delicatessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food takeaways and inexpensive konoba for a quick and authentic lunch – see the “Where to eat” section - plus a few pleasant cafés with leafy terraces. Galleries Filodrammatica D-2, Korzo 28/I, tel. 37 70 51, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr. An exhibition space in the beautiful building on Korzo where you’ll also find the Hemingway bar. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Gallery Velčić D-1, Pod kaštelom 5, tel./fax 33 21 49, vvelcic@inet.hr. North of Koblerov trg, a lovely large gallery with the permanent exhibition of the artist Velčić, plus sale of works by many other Croatian artists. Free entry. Open 09:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00. Sat 9:00-13:00. Sun cls. Grad E-1, Ivana Grohovca 1, tel. 21 28 41, fax 33 34 00, galerija.grad@ri.htnet.hr. A permanent exhibition of works by Croatian academic painters and sculptors. Free entry. Open 09:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. Sat 09:00-13:00. Sun cls. Juraj Klović E-2, Matije Gupca 4a, tel./fax 33 88 09, tel. 33 24 94, hdlur@ri.htnet.hr, www.hdlu-rijeka.hr. Exhibition and sale of artworks. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Sun cls. Free entry. Kontinental E-2, Ribarska 2, tel. 091 511 84 41. Open 09:00-12:00, 17:00-20:00; Sat 09:12:00; Closed Sun. Kortil F-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. 37 70 65/ 37 70 51, fax 37 35 34, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr. An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak. Free entry. QOpen 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Mali salon D-2, Korzo 24, tel. 33 35 48/ 33 42 80, fax 33 09 82, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo. Entry 5 kn. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 and 18:00-21:00. Trsatska Gradina U-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel./fax 21 77 14. You should call this number for info about working hours cause they change with exhibitions. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Summer 2008 E-2, Jelačićev trg. Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions. Fontana Kawasaki (The Kawasaki fountain) Fontana Korzo (The Korzo fountain) D-2, Korzo.  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range. 32 WHAT TO SEE Saint Vitus - Sveti Vid The Slavs took St Vitus to their hearts as a patron saint because his name means something like “all-seeing” in Slav languages – indeed, he is the patron saint of eyes and vision, and of the city of Rijeka. So much did his image become part of the city that Rijeka was known in the Middle Ages either as “Terra Fluminis Sancti Viti” (in Latin) or “Rika Svetog Vida” (Croatian). You can see his image on a stained glass window in the St Vitus Cathedral and in many other items of the city’s heraldry. St Vitus was born in Sicily at the end of the 3rd Century, and was martyred by the Roman Emperor Diocletian (he who built the great palace at Split). Prague’s gothic cathedral is also named after him. is a path named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre. Stari grad (The Old City) . The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but.you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera (see below). WHAT TO SEE Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18. st. (Calvary 17-18 century) E-1, Kalvarija. Just north of St Vitus Church 33 The University Library The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view – it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building. Churches Crk va sv. Sebastijana (The Church of St Sebastian) D-2, Marka Marulića bb. Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated. Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe! The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00. Historical areas Gradina sv. Križ (The Fort of the Holy Cross) T-2, Sveti križ. Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s observatory (open for viewing the night sky on Thursdays at 21:00). Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interestinglooking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled! Riječka zvjezdarnica, Sveti križ 33, tel. 40 06 58, tel./fax 40 06 59. Kasnoantički kastrum 4st. (Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera. Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed. D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. 32 53 20, fax 32 53 24. A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square. It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00 and 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30 and 18:30. Crkva sv. Jeronima i Dominikanski samostan (The Church of St Jerome and Dominican monastery) www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 34 WHAT TO SEE The Morčić If you notice pictures and jewellery bearing the sign of the head of a black person of indeterminate gender wearing a white turban, you need to know that this is a Morčić – a “little Moor”. Why a Moor in Rijeka? There are a couple of picturesque legends about this, but the most likely story is that this is a local version of similar ornaments from Venice when the fashion for exotica was at its height. While the Venetian “Moretto” was made of gold and expensively bejewelled, an enamel version within reach of modest purses that became popular in this part of the world. It was a beloved ornament not only of women, but also for sailors, fisherman and only sons who wore one in their right ear to protect them from evil. 33 53 99, fax 32 41 60. Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There! That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Mass: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00. N-2, Vukovarska 62, tel. 67 58 04. The monks of the Salesian order follow the teachings of St Don Bosco (1815-1888), a priest who dedicated his life to helping and teaching orphaned boys. The buildings of the monastery complex date back to 1892, the chapel for orphans to 1901. The Salesians were invited to Rijeka in 1918 to work with young people, and founded a school and oratory here. The Salesian Classical Grammar School is a highly regarded educational institution which continues this work today on the same site. WHAT TO SEE Pravoslavna crkva sv. Nikole (The Orthodox Church of St Nicholas) D-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. produced all kinds of exciting stuff since over the years, including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region. heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter. 35 Salezijanski samostan (The Salesian Monastery) Landmarks Titov trg. On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.. Janko Polić Kamov (The statue of Kamov) F-1, E-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. 21 41 77. Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. Although St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings, it was undergoing renovation at the time of writing. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass. It’s open every day 08:00-12:00 and 16:30 to 18:30. Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije i Kosi toranj (The Church of St Mary of the Assumption) Industrial Rijeka It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture. Kapucinska crkva Gospa Lurdska (The Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Lourdes) B-2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. 33 52 33/ 21 12 89. Th e grand neogothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s C a p u c h i n o r d e r. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, an d apparen tl y someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00 and 19:00. Željeznički kolodvor (Railway station) A-2, Petra Krešimira 5. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the railway station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. He built stations for 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings. Brodogradilište (The shipyards) L-3, Liburnijska 3. Driving past the railway station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has Petra Krešimira IV. A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s railway station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses. Tvornica papira (The paper mill) F-1, Ružićeva bb. Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”. Tvornica torpeda (The torpedo factory) M-3, Jože Vlahovića 19. Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their Tvornica šećera (The sugar refinery) A-1, Ulica Mljekarica (The Milkmaid) E-2, Užarska. By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent over under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu. Most hrvatskih branitelja (Memorial bridge to Rijeka’s soldiers) E-2, Uskočka riva. A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London AR+D. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic! Museums D-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. 33 64 45/ 33 64 47, fax 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr. Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived. Closed Sat/Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Državni arhiv Rijeka (State Archives in Rijeka) Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 36 WHAT TO SEE The Glagolitic Script The Croatian language was originally written in the Glagolitic alphabet. The origins of this alphabet are still debated, but the story probably goes back to 1st century Greece, when two priests, brothers Cyril and Methodius, were sent west to convert people to Christianity. They used an alphabet, possibly derived from a Greek dialect, to translate the Bible. This alphabet took root in Croatia, developed and nurtured by the influential religious community. Since it was never much used further north and west, and was later replaced by the Cyrillic script to the east, it became a unique aspect of Croatian culture. Many important state and church documents, and a smaller number of works of literature were written in the Glagolitic script; and printing presses were established in Rijeka and Senj. Glagolitic culture was strongest in the Kvarner region, in Istria and some parts of Dalmatia, and had an epicentre on Krk (see “Kvarner & Islands”). to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building. QOpen , Mon, Thu 14:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. WHAT TO SEE Palača Municipija (The Municipal Palace) D-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije. Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal R and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration Croat and Serb unity in the drive for this autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire. Sudbena palača (The Judicial Palace) E-1, Žrtava fašizma. Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too – raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today. Park Nikole Hosta (The Nikola Hosta Park) D-1, Žrtava fašizma. Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect D-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament. 37 Palaces D-1, Muzejski trg 1. The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (see below) you can also see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds. Guvernerova palača (The Governor’s Palace) Park Vladimira Nazora (The Vladimir Nazor Park) 10 92, fax 33 65 21, muzej-grada-rijeke@ri.t-com.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Muzej grada Rijeke (The Museum of the City of Rijeka) D-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. 33 67 11/ 35 of Trsat) V-2, Trsat. Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat. Perivoj Gospe Trsatske (The Gardens of Our Lady Religious collections Riznica Franjevačkog samostana, Trsat (The Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery, Trsat) U-3, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. 21 70 18/ 45 29 00, fax 21 73 47. All kinds of churchy stuff dating back to the 13th century, including incunabula and a valuable collection of vestments. Call for appointment. Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti (Modern and Contemporary Art Museum) C-2, Dolac 1/II, tel. 33 42 80, fax 33 09 82, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. mmsu.hr. Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. See our Events pages to see what exhibitions are on this summer. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 and 18:00-21:00. Closed Mon. D-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel./fax 55 36 69, info@ prirodoslovni.com, www.prirodoslovni.com. Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. and study The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone. Entry 3-10kn. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. svkri.hr. The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979. The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique Prirodoslovni muzej (The Natural History Museum) Sveučilišna knjižnica Rijeka (The University Library) C-2, Dolac 1, tel. 33 69 11/ 33 61 29, www. grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija – yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination. While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool. The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary – look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India. Palača komuna (The Palazzo) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera. This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza - the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see below) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade. Palača Modello (The Modello Building) E-2, Ivana Zajca. A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community. Palača Adria (The Jadran Building) C-2, Riva. This Parks Ka zališni park (The Theatr e Park) E-3, Ivana Zajca. Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the th eatre, Modello palace and buildings of the ci ty market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brough t back to i ts original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas. Park Mlaka (The Mlaka Park) . One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the railway station. Frankopanski trg 12, tel. 45 29 00/ 21 70 18, fax 21 73 47. The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art. Call for appointment. Sakralna zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida E-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. 33 08 79, fax 21 22 61. The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here. Call for visit tour. Entry 5 kn. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske (The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat) U-1, Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova (The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings) U-1, Frankopanski www.inyourpocket.com trg 12, tel. 21 70 18/ 45 29 00, fax 21 73 47. Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 38 OPATIJA The key to Opatija’s success its location at the foot of Mount Učka, creating a southeastfacing sun-trap which is protected from cold winds. Considered the perfect place for a rest cure ever since the 1880s, Opatija is currently undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with pretty much ever y hotel in the 4-to-5-star bracket now of fering indoor pools, saunas, steambaths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-of-the-art beauty treatments. With major European centres such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500-kilometre radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible year-round health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe. It’s also an up-and-coming venue for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events. The Ambassador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and the Opatija hotels are also endowed with the wherewithal to accommodate hundred-strong business meetings. The Opatija riviera The Opatija Riviera is arguably the place where Croatian tourism really began. Earmarked as a top-quality resort area for the Austro-Hungarian upper classes 120 years ago, this string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its centre is Opatija, a belle-epoque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. With all three situated a 20-to-30-minute drive from Rijeka (or, alternatively, a short ride on the no. 32 bus), getting around is a piece of cake. Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, elegant cafes stu f fed with all manner of obscenely delicious sweets, and C r o a t i a’s d e n s e s t concentration of topclass restaurants. Opatija in history Opatija gets its name from the abbey (“opatija” being the Croatian word for “abbey”) established here by the Benedictines some time in the late Middle Ages. The abbey was abandoned by the early nineteenth century, although its centre-point, St James’s Church (Crkva svetog Jakova), still stands by the seashore. A civilian settlement grew up around the abbey some time in the sixteenth century, although it wasn’t until the nineteenth century that Opatija was ‘discovered’ as a potential health resort and its development really took off. Opatija’s histor y as a tourist destination begins in the 1840s, when Rijeka merchant Iginio Scarpa built the Villa Angiolina here to serve both as a family retreat and a venue for high-society gatherings. With members of the Austro-Hungarian a r i s to c r a c y i n c l u d e d on S carpa’s gu est list, word of Opatija’s at tra c ti ons b e ga n to spread. Nineteenth century tourists were not interested in sunbathing, b u n ge e - j u mpi n g, a n d d r i n k i n g t h e m s e l ve s stupid before falling asleep face-down in their dinner. They saw travel as a health-improving activity which took them away from smoky cities and provided them with a dose of fresh sea air. Opatija, with its warm climate and mild sea breezes, was the ideal destination. With Opatija developing into a kind of Adriatic Monte Carlo, leading cultural figures were drawn here too. Playwright Anton Chekhov, composer Gustav Mahler, Nobel-prize-winning novelist Henryk Sienkiewicz and dancer Isadora Duncan were just some of those who chose Opatija as the place in which to treat their creative instincts to a freshen-up. During the inter-war period, when this part of Croatia was under Italian occupation, Opatija hosted a European Operetta Festival which attracted Franz Lehár and other top composers. After 1945 Opatija was the favoured resort of Yugoslavia’s communist top brass. The resort received a fresh injection of glamour in 1958, with the inauguration of a pop-song festival modelled on that of San Remo in Italy. The Opatija festival is still going strong, although it is nowadays known as Dora and takes the form of a competition to choose Croatia’s representative in that year’s Eurovision Song Contest. The Croats take Eurovision rather more seriously than many of their west-European counterparts, and most major stars take part in the selection process – making Dora one of the top showbiz events of the year. Don’t worry if you can’t get a ticket – it’s invariably transmitted live by Croatian TV. It was the extension of the Austro-Hungarian railway network that gave Opatija its big break. Egged on by the advice of top doctors (notably the Austrian laryngologist Leopold Schrötter, who found the local sea air to be an excellent cure for throat complaints), the Southern Railway Company or Südbahn built a direct line from Vienna to Rijeka and started building hotels in Opatija to meet the expected tourist demand. In 1884 the Südbahn opened Opatija’s first sanatorium, the Kvarner (which is still going strong as the Kvarner Hotel). Opatija was always intended as an exclusive resort for the horse-and-carriage set, and soon became popular with the Austro-Hungarian royal family. Emperor Franz Josef himself was a regular visitor, and was joined here by his German counterpart Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1894. Franz Ferdinand (the Archduke, not the band) popped down to Opatija to indulge in a spot of bird-shooting at nearby Preluk. OPATIJA 39 Šetalište Franza Jozefa (Franz-Jozef Promenade) If there’s one thing that every visitor to Opatija must do then it’s walk at least part of the way along the Franz-Jozef Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore to Volosko 3km to the north, or in the opposite direction to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens of ornate pre-World War I villas, the promenade offers fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the greeny-brown Gorski kotar mountains brooding in the background. Villa Angiolina Most famous o f Opatija’s villas, and a lan dmark in th e town’s development as a high-society resort, Villa Angiolina was built by Rijeka merchant Iginio Scarpa in 1844 to serve as an out-oftown retreat for his family and friends. It was named after his wi fe, Angiolina Sartori, who had died in chil dbir th some twenty years earlier. The Scarpas’ lavish balls and receptions we re a t te n d e d b y the cream of AustroHungarian society. High-ranking guests included governor of Croatia Josip Jelačić (1851), Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859), and Emperor Franz-Jozef’s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana (1860). www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 40 OPATIJA Street smarts Street Road Passage City centre ulica cesta prolaz centar Square Walk Way Station trg šetalište put stanica MAIL & PHONES 41 Express mail City Ex N-1, 22.lipnja 29, tel. 32 04 03, cityexpress@ rijeka.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. DHL D-3, Verdieva 10, tel. 21 52 20/ 21 52 10, fax 21 51 10, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Overseas Express Trtni bb, tel. 27 42 22, overseas@ overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The gardens surrounding the villa were planted with the exotic shrubs and trees that were collected for Scarpa by Rijeka’s sea-roving sailors. Scarpa’s cedars, sequoias, gingkos, palms and holm oaks are still flourishing, making this one of Croatia’s most important dendrological collections. Ultimately the Villa Angiolina was sold b y t h e fa m i l y to cover their business debts, and in1886 i t wa s a c q u i r e d by the Südbahn (Austria’s Southern Railway Company), who turned it into a holiday villa for highprofile guests. Heir to the throne Prince Rudolf of Habsburg was one of the first to visit. The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian Tourism – well worth visiting not least because it gives you the chance to peek inside the villa’s ornate entrance hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs, antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the history of the travel industry. Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion Occupying the site of the former Benedictine monastery buildings, this elegant colonnaded structure originally served as a seafront café. Lovingly restored, and named after one of the pre-World War I medical men who popularized Opatija as a health resort, the pavilion now hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Volosko Nowadays a suburb of Opatija rather than a separate town in its own right, Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera. It still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats. Plavi Podrum is one of the more established venues for classic fish and seafood backed up by an impressive (possibly Croatia’s best) wine list, while the nearby Le Mandrač enjoys a country-wide reputation for its fusion of modern European and traditional Croatian cuisine. Lovran Six kilometres south of Opatija, Lovran is the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenthcentury Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth-century villas – many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A sort walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, site of an impressive crescent of pebbly beach. Kastav Best way to get to grips with the geography of the Opatija Riviera is to head for Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left, and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance. An atmospheric knot of narrow streets lies within Kastav’s town gates, and there’s a superb restaurant in the shape of Kukuriku (see ‘Restaurants’; p.00), a near-legendary establishment famous for pioneering the “slow food” movement in Croatia. Internet cafes Andrea), tel./fax 67 16 03, angulus@ri.t-com.hr. Computer supplies and surfing in the western outskirts. Printing, scanning and CD burning. Internet: 1h/12kn, 30min/8kn, 15min/5kn. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Inter Club Cont F-1, Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića 1, tel./ fax 37 16 30, magna@ri.t-com.hr, www.interclub-cont. com. Next to the cake shop in Hotel Continental and run by one of the biggest ISPs, fast services, wireless access and a full bar. Internet: 1h/15kn, 30min/8kn, 15min/5kn. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. PGB Bluenet N-2, Franje Čandeka bb (Shopping centre Wi-fi internet access ACI marina Opatija Liburnijska bb, Ičići, tel. 70 40 04, fax 70 40 24, m.opatija@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30. Grand Hotel Adriatic Maršala Tita 200, Opatija, tel. 71 90 00, fax 71 90 15, info@hotel-adriatic.hr, www. hotel-adriatic.hr. Kvarner Infopunkt Vrata Jadrana (on petrol station) Čikovići bb, Kastav, tel. 62 33 33/ 62 88 88, fax 62 33 34, info@kvarner.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Tourist Information-Info Centre D-2, Korzo 33a, tel. 33 58 82, fax 21 47 06, tic@ri.t-com.hr, www.tz-rijeka. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Post Krešimirova 7, Open 07:00 - 20:00.Sun cls.; Laginjina 38, Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 14:00.Sun cls. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post offices D-2, Korzo 13, tel. 52 55 82. Also at Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you‘ve decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (051 if you’re calling Rijeka for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining 9 digits. Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Rijeka is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Centre, tel. 45 86 80, fax 45 85 10, www.t-mobile. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Vip D-2, Riva 4b, tel. 091 77 00, fax 33 19 44, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Thalassotherapy Opatija Unless you’re a health and wellbeing junkie, you’d be forgiven for not knowing that thalassotherapy is treatment by application of seawater or derivatives thereof. It’s taken seriously in the medical world, and Opatija’s Talassoterapia centre was founded as a medical institution in 1957. The seawater is indicated for cardiological, rheumatic, musculoskeletal, neurological and dermatological conditions, both as prevention and as cure, and programmes are much used by athletes as well as by working people under stress. You can also enjoy the new, 2500m2 wellness area, with health and beauty treatments from aroma saunas to pedicures, and any one of huge range of massages.... A week of that, and you will, literally, be a new person! T-mobile D-2, Janka Polić Kamova 81a, Tower  Rijeka telephone code is +385-51 Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 42 GETTING AROUND Airport Rijeka Airport Hamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. 84 20 40, 84 20 55. Flight info 84 21 32, fax 84 20 32, rijeka-airport@ ri.t-com.hr, www.rijeka-airport.hr. The small airport (zračna luka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka with flights to Zagreb, London, (both Croatia Airlines) Hannover, Cologne( Hapag-Lloyd Express)... Getting there: Catch an Autotrolej bus from Rijeka’s city bus station on Jelačić Square, 20kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. You can also take a taxi, or if you go by car there’s free parking. GETTING AROUND Guarded parking Luka Riva Boduli, tel. 098 44 38 67 / 091 548 16 70. Pay on departure. Parking 6kn per hour. Long stay parking 80kn per day. Indoor parking Zagrad Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. 21 29 62. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per day: 80kn, 8kn per hour between 07:00 - 19:00 and 3kn per hour between 19:00 - 07:00. Sun. 3kn per hour. Stari grad Klobučarevićev trg bb, tel. 31 51 55. 24 hour guarded parking. Price per hour: 10kn between 07:00 - 19:00 and 3kn between 19:00 - 07:00. Sun. 3kn per hour durring whole day. Daily maximum (24 hours) is 80kn per day. APCOA multi-storey car park Ivana Pavla 2. 6kn for the first hour, 3kn per hour thereafter. HŽ Car Park Žabica Square. Unlimited parking. Pay from your mobile on 8514. Prices: 3kn/h, or 15kn/day. Opposite the coach station. Tower Centre Rijeka Janka Polić Kamova 81a, tel. 40 38 15. Free entrance. 43 Side trip Poor Zagreb. It’s a city of almost a million people – a fourth of the nation– and the cultural, scientific, industrial and governmental center of Croatia. Yet the slick travel writing, the television spots awash in blue water and golden sunlight usually focus on the coast. But Zagreb is a treat to visit, possibly as a counterpoint to a stay on the Croatian coast. That’s because when thousands of tourists are wedged between Dalmatian city walls or blanketing the beaches, Zagreb quietly goes about its own business. And in winter, while the coast is quiet except for the icy bura wind, Zagreb’s streets and cafes are lively. When Dubrovnik was a trading power and Split and Zadar were Venetian ports, Zagreb was an outpost on the Austro-Hungarian frontier. But 19th Century prosperity brought monumental civic and cultural buildings and modernization to its streets. As a result, Zagreb is a pleasantly walkable city. You can see its Centar in a few hours, but an extra day, or two, allows you to see interesting museums and a show at the lovely National Theatre or Lisinski Concert Hall. You can buy tickets for plays, operas and ballets at the box office and website of each venue. Any visit to Zagreb has to begin at its main square, Trg Bana Jelačića, named for the 19th Century Croatian governor still honored for abolishing serfdom and promoting Croatian autonomy. His equestrian statue faces south; originally it aimed north, toward his Hungarian foes. Nearby is Zagreb’s neo-Gothic cathedral, rebuilt by the Austrian architect Hermann Bolle after an 1880 earthquake. At Dolac, the city’s main market, you can buy all kinds of fresh foods. Zagreb used to be two towns, the religious center Kaptol, with the cathedral, and commercial and civil Gradec. The lovely pedestrian street Tkalčićeva and its trendy shops, restaurants and cafes originally was the boundary between them. The Kamenita Gate, the medieval entrance to Gradec, is a candlelit shrine. Votive plaques thanking Mary for answered prayers line its walls. Gradec remains the seat of Croatia’s government, but also has several restaurants and cafes, galleries and museums. The City Museum tells Zagreb’s story from primitive village to present day. Klovićevi Dvori Gallery hosts art exhibitions of international renown. A funicular railway descends to “Donji Grad,” the lower city. Beware of the noon firing of the cannon from the Lotrščak Tower. It has a way of surprising people. Perhaps Zagreb’s loveliest square is Zrinjevac, named for Nikola Šubić Zrinski, a 16th Century hero. On the square is Zagreb’s Archaeology Museum, home to thousands of artifacts. Zrinjevac is also a great place for art. The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters consists of preRenaissance to 19th Century works from the collection of Bishop Juraj Strossmayer; for more recent works, check out the Modern Art Gallery. The Art Pavilion, originally built for a Hungarian exposition, dismantled and rebuilt between Zrinjevac and the main train station, produces temporary art shows. But Zrinjevac is a pleasant place to rest in its own right, under tall shade trees, with the rush of a fountain and among bright flower gardens. Summer concerts are held on Saturdays at the gazebo. Airline offices Croatia Airlines E-2, Jelačićev trg 5, tel. 33 02 07/ 33 67 57, fax 33 59 31, rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr, www. croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. A Buses fax 33 25 32, autotrans@ri.t-com.hr, www.autotrans. hr. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. The bus station is on trg Žabica in the city centre. Although small, it’s a hive of activity with everything you need on the concourse including left luggage, toilets, exchange offices, fast food outlets, newsstands and mini-markets. There is a public phone on Platform 1 outside the ticket office, and a couple of ATMs near the big church on the square. Take a walk across to the church and you’ll also come across a couple of pleasant cafes. Ticket / information office open 05:30 - 22:30 tel. 060 30 20 10, (1,69 kn per minute), you should press “2”, to contact the operator. Autotrans C-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. 66 03 00/ 21 38 21, fax 21 19 88, autotrans@ri.t-com.hr, www.autotrans. hr. Tow away If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street Ulice A. K. Miošića - it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 250kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card. QOpen Mon - Fri 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, closed Sun. Central Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka) C-2, Žabica 1, tel. 060 30 20 10/ 21 38 21, 17, fax 32 59 01, rijeka@subrosa.hr; subrosa@subrosa. hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. A Hertz D-2, Riva 6, tel. 31 10 98, fax 01 488 30 77, rijeka.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Sun On request Q A ITR B-2, Trg Žabica b.b., tel. 21 10 58, fax 33 67 12, Itr-ri@itr.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A OTS N-2, Cavtatska 2b, tel. 21 20 27, fax 21 51 60, ots@ri.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Dollar& Thrifty C-2, Riva 22, tel. 32 59 00/ 33 79 Tow service Prodan Vlatko M-2, Franje Čandeka 36, tel. 64 34 QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A 13/ 091 482 22 20, vucna-sluzba-prodan@ri.t-com.hr. Train station line: 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The railway station is just outside of the city centre, heading west along the coast road. Bus numbers 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32 get you there from the centre. Trains connect Rijeka with Budapest (via Zagreb), Ljubljana and Ilirska Bistrica in Slovenia (via Opatija-Matulji) and Osijek in east Croatia. The HŽ (Croatian Railways) website has good English and German pages featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes. Ticket office: International office in the central lobby, open 09:10-20:30 and domestic open 04:50-21:45h. Information: on Platform 1 (Ljubljana direction), open 08:30-15:30. Sundays and public holidays cls. The staff speak English, German and Italian. Tel: 21 33 33. Left luggage (lockers): open 00:00-24:00, costs: 15kn per day. Central Railway Station (Željeznički kolodvor Rijeka) A-2, Krešimirova 5, tel. 21 33 33/National info Car rental Avis C-2, Riva 8, tel. 31 11 35/ 091 314 30 12, fax QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Budget D-2, Trg 128 brigade hrvatske vojske br. 8, tel. 31 11 36, rijeka.dt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr. Harbour office Lučka kapetanija D-3, Senjsko pristanište 3, tel. 21 40 31, fax 31 32 65, 21 16 60, rijeka.pomorskipromet@ pomorstvo.hr, www.mmtpr.hr. 21 47 42, fax 33 14 96, rkd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Petrol station (0-24h) Mlaka (Rijeka) Zvonimirova bb, tel. 67 29 79 Mlaka (Rijeka) Zvonimirova 7, tel. 67 22 31 Školjić (Rijeka) Školjić bb, tel. 33 58 83 Vrata Jadrana (Riječka zaobilaznica - west) tel. 22 50 Ravna Gora Javorova kosa bb, tel. 81 91 80 Taxi Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms. There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 25kn for a 5km journey. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement. Auto-Taxi Rijeka tel. 33 28 93 - train station, 33 54 17 - Matije Gupca and 33 51 38 - coach station. 20% night time supplement. Kvarner taxi tel. 30 13 01. They don’t charge a nighttime supplement. Taxi tel. 34 56 10, 099 217 74 23, taxi1@taxicroatia.biz, www.taxi-croatia.biz If you need a taxi in Opatija, call Opatija taxi tel. 71 13 66. 56 Travel Agencies 21 46 66, fax 33 80 90, info@adriatic.com.hr, www. adriatic.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Generalturist P-1, Trg 128. brigade Hrvatske vojske 8b, tel. 21 45 90, fax 33 14 96, prijeka@generalturist. com, www.generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Jadrotours C-2, Splitska 1, tel. 21 13 71, fax 21 39 16, jadrotours@ri.htnet.hr, www.jadrotours.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Obzor turizam tours E-2, Janeza Trdine 3a, tel./fax 21 29 32, obzor@ri.t-com.hr, www.obzor-tours.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Wed 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A RI-AK tours D-3, Verdieva 4-6, tel. 31 23 12/ 21 48 75, fax 31 23 33, ri-ak-tours@ri.t-com.hr, www. ri-ak-tours.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Adriatic bus & Tours C-2, Jadranski trg 1b/III, tel. Road help Road help (HAK) 987 www.hak.hr. Call 987. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00 for breakdown services. Autoklub Rijeka Dolac 11, tel. 21 24 42, www.akrijeka.hr, info@ak-rijeka.hr. Q0pen Mon to Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mechanical service is at the Preluk 6, tel. 62 18 24 Q Open Mon to Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Breakdown service at the same address. QOpen Mon to Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tehnical examination service is at Preluk 10, tel. 62 11 63/62 10 89. Q Open 07:00 - 19:30, Sat. 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Tow service is at Preluk 6, tel. 62 18 06. QOpen Mon - Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 44 GETTING AROUND Domestic bus schedule From Rijeka Days 1234561234561234561234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345-7 1234567 1234567 1234567 - - 3-5-7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 09:00 20:30 22:30 07:45 11:00 19:00 14:30 22:30 10:15 16:00 23:35 07:00 12:30 22:30 09:00 22:30 09:00 16:15 07:45 17:00 20:40 To Rijeka Arr. Destination Days 21:43 DUBROVNIK 12-4-608:35 DUBROVNIK 1234567 10:49 DUBROVNIK - - 3-5-7 09:20 KARLOVAC 1234567 12:35 KARLOVAC 1234567 20:35 KARLOVAC 1234567 22:07 OSIJEK 1234567 05:15 OSIJEK 12-4-612:35 PULA 12345-18:15 PULA 1234567 01:15 PULA 1234567 14:47 SPLIT 1234567 20:36 SPLIT 12345-7 06:06 SPLIT 1234567 15:06 ŠIBENIK 1234567 04:31 ŠIBENIK 1234567 13:38 ZADAR 1234567 20:13 ZADAR 1234567 10:15 ZAGREB 1234567 19:40 ZAGREB 1234567 23:20 ZAGREB 1234567 Rijeka In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Dep. 06:30 15:30 17:00 09:55 15:10 20:55 12:00 21:00 08:30 11:30 20:00 09:00 13:00 20:30 11:00 22:01 12:45 23:31 07:30 17:00 21:00 Arr. 19:24 04:07 04:50 11:51 16:45 22:40 19:15 03:45 10:47 12:10 22:20 17:34 20:30 04:07 17:34 04:07 17:34 04:07 10:10 19:30 23:30 GETTING AROUND Parking, SMS Parking Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for parking! It’s so simple. Look for the blue sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna per hour. You can also pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard. 45 Public transport City buses E-2, Jelačićev trg, tel. 31 14 00/ 060 15 11 51, autotrolej@kd.autotrolej.htnet.hr, www.autotrolej.hr. The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg. They connect all the points you need the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. See page 44 for a city route map. Buy tickets in any news kiosk: they’re valid for two trips on within the city - stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51. Also catch the airport bus from here - 22kn one way. International bus schedule From Rijeka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 - - - - 56Dep. 21:40 17:30 17:30 08:30 To Rijeka Arr. Destination Days 07:00 BELGRADE 1234567 06:00 FRANKFURT 1234567 01:30 MUNICH 1234567 18:00 SARAJEVO - - - - 5-7 Rijeka In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Dep. 20:00 12:15 19:00 06:00 Arr. 05:00 03:00 03:00 18:00 www.inyourpocket.com International train schedule From Rijeka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 12:55 05:45 07:30 Arr. 15:20 22:30 20:02 Destination LJUBLJANA MUNICH (Zagreb) VIENNA (Zagreb) To Rijeka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:15 07:23 05:50 Arr. 08:50 21:10 18:05 Rijeka In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Domestic train schedule From Rijeka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 05:40 11:20 13:30 16:50 Arr. 09:40 15:14 18:31 20:15 Destination ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Rijeka Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:50 08:00 11:20 17:10 Arr. 10:10 12:55 15:05 21:10 Rijeka In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Ferry Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passanger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot pasangers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across. Jadroagent D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. 78 05 00, fax. 21 36 16, info@jadroagent.com, www.jadroagent. com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Jadrolinija C-2, Riva 16, tel. 21 14 44, fax. 66 61 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat.08:00 14:30. Closed Sun. Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 46 GETTING AROUND ... Ferry Rapska plovidba Hrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. 72 41 22, fax. 72 40 18, rapskaplovidba@ri.htnet.hr, www.rapska-plovidba.hr International ferry lines Jadrolinija ferry Marko Polo Rijeka - Split - Stari Grad (Hvar Island) - Korčula - Sobra (Mljet Island) - Dubrovnik - Bari From Rijeka To Rijeka Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. Mon 20:00 Wed 08:00 Wed 22:00 Fri 07:00 Fri 20:00 Sat 22:00 Sat 23:59 Mon 07:00 Brestova (mainland, east coast of the Istrian peninsula) - Porozina (Cres Island) From Brestova 1st ferry 00:30 then 04:30 (28.06 - 08.09.), 06:30 then every hour to 20:30, last 20:30, 22:30 (13.06 - 14.09.) From Porozina 1st ferry 04:00 (28.06 - 08.09.) then 06:00, then every hour to 20:00, at 22:00 (13.06 - 14.09.), last 24:00 (27.06 - 07.09.) Valbiska (Krk Island) - Merag (Cres Island) From Valbiska 1st ferry 00:01 then 05:45, then every hour or 90min, last 22:45 From Merag 1st ferry 01:00 then 06:30, then every hour or 90min, last 23:30 Prizna (mainland - N. of Karlobag) - Žigljen (Pag Island) From Prizna 1st ferry 00:30 (14.06 - 01.09.) then 04:30 (05.07 - 15.09.), then every hour, last at 22:30, 23:30 (13.06 - 07.09.) From Žigljen 1st ferry 00:01 (14.06 - 01.09.) then 04:00 (05.07 - 08.09.), 05:00 (14:06 - 15:09) then every hour, last at 23:00 Lopar (Rab island) - Valbiska (Krk island) Tickets: Lopar Vrutak, tel. 099 316 41 44 and TO Valbiska, Valbiska bay, tel. 051 86 31 80, 099 270 01 12 Ferry leaves Lopar daily at 06:00 and 13:15. From Valbiska also two lines a day at 07:45 and 15:15. SPORT Ad Natura L-2, Mate Sušnja 12, tel. 091 590 70 65/ 091 763 44 65, fax 55 16 81, adnatura@adnatura.hr, www.adnatura.hr. Call this club if you’d like to try mountain biking or free climbing on Mount Učka. Cycling & Mountain Bike Club Roberta F. Račkoga 32, tel. 095 940 46 02, bbk-roberta@ri.t-com.hr; bbk@bbk-roberta.hr, www.bbk-roberta.hr. Club for velocipedists. 47 Pilates Body Balance Studio A-1, Alessandra Manzonia 4, Closed Sun. (02.06 - 29.09) (06.06 - 26.09) Local ferry lines Jadrolinija ferry QOpen 08:00 - 12:00 and 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. tel. 33 06 68/ 098 57 54 42, tanjababeli@yahoo.com. Sailing Yacht Club Croatia Maršala Tita 151, 51410 Opatija, tel. 27 12 88, fax 27 18 24, aci@aci-club.hr, www.aciclub.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Yacht Club Opatija Zert 1, Opatija, tel./fax 27 25 30, sailing-club-opatija@ri.t-com.hr, www.jk-opatija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Jadrolinija ferry Jadrolinija ferry Scuba diving Marine spor t diving center Aleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. 091 515 72 12/ 091 293 24 40, fax 73 78 37, info@marinesport.hr, www.marinesport. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Split tours ferry Biking Views, views, views… you’ll probably think we’re at least partially obsessed. Ok, we are, we admit it – but you’ll thank us for it when you get there. And now for our announcement of the BEST VIEW and BEST WALK – well, it has to be from the top of that green mammoth Mount Učka. Fancy seeing the peaks of the Italian Alps and a brown blob in the shape of Venice? Not only will you be thrilled, excited, dazzled, nonplussed, probably exhausted - possibly even dead – but you will also have lungs full of the second healthiest air on the entire continent (according to the Austro-Hungarians). Part and parcel of a healthful cure at Opatija was walks in the lush green forests which extend all the way up to the highest peak, Vojak (1401m), with a medieval viewpoint at the top. There are many paths, varying in difficulty, starting from all the resorts on the Opatija Riviera, passing by various items of historical or natural wonder, as well as mountain biking trails, opportunities for climbers and places to eat. Call into the tourist information office in your resort, or check out the website of the Mount Učka Nature Park: www.pp-ucka.hr. Tennis Kvarner Ede Jarasa 27a, Marčeljeva draga, tel. 62 16 01, fax 62 14 44, tenis-klub-kvarner@ri.t-com.hr, www. tkk.hr. Price per hour 30-60kn. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Rapska plovidba ferry Jablanac (mainland south of Senj) - Mišnjak (Rab Island) From Jablanac 1st ferry 04:30 (June 05:30), then 05:30 and roughly every hour till 24:00 From Mišnjak 1st ferry 04:00 (June 05:00), then 05:00 and again every hour till 23:30 Jadrolinija catamaran Rijeka - Cres - Unije - Susak - Ilovik - Mali Lošinj (Lošinj Island) From Rijeka catamaran leaves daily at 17:00 arriving Mali Lošinj 20:15 - 21:20 depending on days and stops it docks. From Mali Lošinj catamaran leaves daily at 06:00 (Sun 09:00) arriving Rijeka 09:20 - 09:55 (Sun 12:55) Rijeka - Rab - Novalja (Pag Island) Jadrolinija catamaran From Rijeka catamaran departs daily at 17:00, gets to Rab 18:45, arrives Novalja 19:30 From Novalja departs at 06:00 (Sun 09:00), stops at Rab at 06:45 (Sun 09:45) and arrives Rijeka at 08:30 (Sun 11:30) Local boat lines Jadrolinija boat Mali Lošinj - Unije - Ilovik - Susak An island-hopping round trip that leaves Mali Lošinj twice each morning and once in the afternoon. It calls in at different places depending on the day and time: call into your local travel agent or check out the Jadrolinija website for timetables. The trip takes about 2-4 hours. Rapska plovidba boat Amico Rab - Lun - Jakišnica (Pag Island) Leaves Rab Tue, Thu, Fri 09:00, other days 12:00. In Jul/Aug on Tue, Thu and Fri additional runs at 12:00 and 17:00 Leaves Lun daily at 07:30, in Jul/Aug additional runs on Tue, Thu and Fri at 10:00 and 16:00. When studying the timetable, it might help you to know the days of the week: Monday – ponedjeljak, Tuesday – utorak, Wednesday – srijeda, Thursday – četvrtak, Friday – petak, Saturday – subota, Sunday – nedjelja. It’s probably best not to attempt to travel on Thursday then! www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 48 SHOPPING Bookshops ri-exlibris.hr, www.ri-exlibris.hr. Second-hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English-language choices. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00 and 16:00-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Superstore S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova (4th floor, Tower Center), tel. 40 02 94, www.profil.hr. Multi-media store offering a reasonable selection of Englishlanguage novels, and plenty of attractively illustrated, international titles on art, architecture and design. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Tisak D-2, Korzo 26A, tel. 33 42 95. The city’s best choice of international newspapers and magazines, including plenty of glossy English-language monthlies. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. VBZ C-2, Dolac 7, tel. 33 71 88/ 33 47 49, fax 33 47 49, knjizara-rijeka@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. A large bookshop in the old town - get your maps and guidebooks here! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Verbum E-2, Janeza Trdine 1d, tel./fax 31 60 50, veleprodaja@verbum.hr, www.verbum.hr. Specialising in religious themes. Q Open 08:00-12:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 08:30-13:00, Closed Sun. A SHOPPING Delicatessen Gavrilović E-2, Janeza Trdine 8a, tel. 33 01 82, www. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Havana Cigar Shop C-2, Trpimirova 5a, tel. 33 28 54, gavrilovic.hr. Top quality Croatian hams and salamis. 49 Antikvarijat Ex-Libris D-2, Riva 4, tel. 33 64 59, info@ Cosmetics www.globalrelax.com. Also at Osječka 71 (Mercator Centre), tel. 051/ 29 88 49. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Rituals C-1/C-2, Erazma Barčića 1b, tel. 32 25 73, fax 21 55 29, arusso@schram-bienenfeld.com, www. schram-bienenfeld.com. Delving into hedonistic senses and following market trends for extravagances,a cigar shop and walk-in-humidor has recently appeared in Rijeka. Not only do they have fine cigars, this store also includes an assortment of the best Croatian liqueurs, wines, Belgian beer and chocolate, a collection of olive oils, traditional Croatian cakes and truffles.So if enjoy the waft of fine cigars, or you wish to give or live in style, come hither. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kraš E-2, Korzo 2a, tel./fax 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kušaonica Frajona C-2, Riva 16, tel. 32 13 33/ 098 21 14 26, fax 32 13 35, frajona@ri.t-com.hr. Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Milenium E-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel./fax 33 57 55, vinoteka@vinoteka-milenium.hr, www.vinotekamilenium.hr. A lovely big vintner in the centre - Croatian and international wines and champers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Piko delicije E-2, Fiumara 3, tel. 31 50 25/ 65 03 54, pik.rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead! QOpen 06:30 20:00, Sat 06:30 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. N Pip E-2, Veslarska 8a, tel. 21 36 35, fax 32 30 23, www. pip.hr. Home produced honey. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Blato 1902 E-3, Demetrova 14a, tel. 21 39 24/ 21 12 31, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www.blato1902. hr. An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Vupik Antuna Mataje bb, Novi Vinodolski, tel. 24 80 33, fax 24 80 31. On the market, selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters - try herb and fig. Also wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galleries 31 98, fax 32 41 98, antikvarijat@ri.t-com.hr, www. antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Antiques Triton F-1, Strossmaryerova 2b, tel. 37 13 77, fax 32 13 21, triton_antikviteti@vip.hr. Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Flumen Sancti Viti D-2, Korzo 14, tel. 32 24 07. A beautiful selection of works by Croatian artists QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Art E-2, Užarska 14, tel. 32 28 03/ 37 12 37, 37 12 66, fax 37 15 52, galerija@art-rijeka.hr, www.artrijeka.hr. Antique and modern, oils, collages and porcelain. QOpen 08:30 - 12:30 and 15:30-19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Antiques Mali neboder C-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. 21 www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 50 SHOPPING Laval E-3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel./fax 21 11 33, antikvarijat.galerija.laval@ri.t-com.hr. Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware. Free entry. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mala galerija E-2, Užarska 25, tel./fax 33 54 03, mala-galerija@ri.t-com.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr. Very cute ceramics, jewellery, souvenirs including items bearing Rijeka’s “morčić” emblem - this street was once the preserve of artisans making this local jewellery. Free entry. QOpen 08:30 - 13:00 and 16:00-19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Sina F-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2a, tel./fax 37 20 02. A little gallery behind Hotel Continental selling Morčić souvenirs and with paintings by a selection of Croatian artists. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A DIRECTORY 51 Hypermarkets Getro N-1, Škurinjska cesta b.b., tel. 66 05 55, fax 66 05 50, www.getro.hr. The cheapest place to stock up for armageddon - or buy your booze to take back home. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 21:00. A Plodine Q-2, Ružićeva 29, tel. 35 28 00, plodine@ plodine.hr, w w w.plodine.hr. A good quali t y, large supermarket. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A dms-rijeka@mars-music.hr. Staffed by music fans, this is your best bet if you’re seeking out a specific album or DVD. Particularly strong on alternative rock. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-21:00. Closed Sun. A Dallas Records E-2, Splitska 2a, tel. 33 25 24, Emergency numbers Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard 92 93 94 9155 Shopping mall 38 15, fax 45 96 44, policentro-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. tower-center-rijeka.hr. This 4-storey shrine to consumerism contains pretty much every Croatian and international highstreet brand you’ve heard of, plus a huge supermarket near the entrance. With cafes on every floor, and both gambling arcade and multi-screen cinema at the top, it’s no wonder that Tower Center has become a major day-out destination for the locals - especially on Sundays, when it’s one of the few places in town that’s open. To join in the scrum, ride bus No 2 to the Janka Polić Kamova stop. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. IGH N-2, Slavka Tomašića 5, tel. 20 61 00, fax 20 61 06, ivica.plisic@igh.hr, www.ri.igh.hr. QOpen 07:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Tower Center S-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. 40 Real estate 08, fax 32 09 75, alba@ri.t-com.hr, www.albanekretnine. com. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Flumen B-1, Pomerio 26, tel. 32 06 80/ 32 06 81, fax 32 06 31, flumen@inet.hr, www.flumen.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Tectorium C-1, Ive Marinkovića 4, tel. 33 25 53/ 33 14 60, fax 33 14 60, tectorium@ri.t-com.hr, www. tectorium-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A.l.b.a. Poljanska cesta 1, Ičići, tel. 32 07 02/ 32 07 Banks & Exchanges 67 25, fax 062 37 67 26, www.erstebank.hr. ATM - F . Čandeka 32. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hypo-Alpe-Adria C-2, Jadranski trg 3, tel. 66 04 44, fax 66 04 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. Free info 24 hours on 0800 49 76 47 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank D-2, Andrije Medulića 8, tel. 31 76 30, fax 31 76 50, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka E-2, Ante Starčevića 10, tel. 35 40 00, fax 35 40 48, www.zaba.hr. ATMs - A. Manzoni 1, Žrtava fašizma 10, Žabica bb. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Erste bank U-1, Frankopanski trg 1, Trsat, tel. 062 37 Music and DVDs crorec.hr. Mainstream record store run by Croatia’s biggest record label, offering plenty in the way of pop and rock - both domestic and international. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Croatia Records E-2, Užarska 3, tel. 21 22 62, www. Souvenirs Eko Oaza F-1, Križanićeva 7a, tel. 37 23 23, ekooaza@eko-oaza.hr. Hidden away in the arcades behind the Continental hotel is this treasure trove of a shop selling a wide range of natural products, ranging from cosmetics to locally-made foodstuffs and furnishings from Bali. Look out for the fashion accessories made by artisans in the highland villages of the nearby Gorski kotar - including some decorative felt balls which we didn’t know whether to stuff down our trousers or hang on the Christmas tree. Call in on Thursdays between 17:00 and 19:00 and you’ll be treated to tasting sessions of freshly made organic snacks and herbal teas. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Foreign representations 13:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Chile D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. 21 24 24/ 21 24 20, fax 21 24 20. QOpen , Tue, Thu 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Italy D/C-2, Riva 16, tel. 35 52 00/ 35 52 01, fax 35 52 25, cons.fiume@esteri.it, www.consfiume.esteri. it. For an emergency call 098 / 41 46 02 (24h available). QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Norway E-1, Žrtava fašizma 2/II, tel. 33 58 27, fax 21 35 49. QOpen 08:00 - 10:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia C-2, Erazma Barčića 9, tel. 33 74 20; 33 74 21, fax 33 73 61, konzulat-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. konzulat-srbije-rijeka.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands E-2, Ulica 9. rujna 11, Opatija, tel. 27 19 77, fax 27 19 96, agency@drakar.hr. QOpen , Tue, Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Zeleno i plavo Hungary D-3, Riva Boduli 1, tel. 21 34 94, fax 33 16 14, transadria@transadria.hr. QOpen , Tue, Thu 11:00 - Brokerage houses Closed Sat, Sun. Fima D-2, Korzo 11, tel. 68 07 54, fax 33 90 09, rijeka@fima.com, www.fima.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Sports fashion Zeleno i plavo - Delicije našega kraja C-2, Trpimirova 1A,, tel. 32 25 98/ 099 322 59 88, fax 32 25 97, zeleno.i.plavo@ri.t-com.hr. A delectable variety of Croatian goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorsko-Goransko led this enchanting store to win several awards. There are so many goodies to choose from, some of which include; a huge range of syrups, wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift! QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. lanteagrupa@lanteagrupa.hr, w w w.lanteagrupa. hr. Right on Korzo, the place to pick up everything from swimming to snowboarding gear. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Business connections oslobođenja 23, tel. 20 91 54, fax 21 60 33, eicri@ hgk.hr, www.euroinfo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. HGK - Županijska komora Rijeka F-1, Bulevar oslobođenja 23, tel. 20 91 11, fax 21 60 33, hgkri@hgk. hr, www.hgk.hr. County Chamber. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poduzetnički informativni centar D/E-2, Trg Svete Barbare 2/1, tel. 20 96 18, pod-info-centar@rijeka. hr, www.rijeka hr. Business Information Centre. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Udruga pomorskih agenata Hrvatske D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. 78 05 00, fax 21 36 16, info@asbac.hr, www.asbac.hr. Association of Ship Brokers and Agents of Croatia. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Euro Info Centre-Relejni centar Rijeka F-1, Bulevar Top Spor t D-2, Koblerov trg 1, tel. 31 58 95, Pharmacy 20:00 - 07:30 (night shift every fifth weekend). You will find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr. Pharmacy Korzo Korzo 22b, tel. 21 10 36. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Pharmacy Kazalištu Uljarska 3, tel. 21 14 79. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Stamp collecting 09:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Filatelija F-1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. 37 20 26, fax 37 73 60. Impress the girls (or boys) with your collection. QOpen Pharmacy Centar Jadranski trg 1, tel. 21 31 01, fax 33 90 82. QOpen Mon - Fri 24h, Sat 07:00 - 13:00 , Sun Twenty-four-hour shops Start C-2, Trpimirova 6/d. Round-the-clock source of alcohol and cigarettes, together with a small selection of foodstuffs and domestic goods. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Consultants 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galion E-2, Adamićeva 13/3, tel./fax 21 24 18, galion@ ri.t-com.hr, info@galion.hr, www.galion.hr. QOpen www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Rijeka In Your Pocket 52 DIRECTORY 00, fotokurti@fotokurti.com, www.fotokurti.com. Photo development. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A L.I.C.E. E-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. 31 57 02, fax 22 83 56. Beauty centre. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00, Wed 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lokot E-2, Užarska 1, tel. 32 38 88, fax 33 45 01, lokot-@net.hr, www.lokot.hr. Key cut. QOpen 08:00 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Princess F-1, Ružićeva 7, tel. 37 41 10, aks@ri.t-com. hr, www.princess.hr. Fitness centre. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00 and 17:00-22:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Sprint E/F-1, Školjić 7a, tel. 21 16 29, fax 32 70 63, prodaja@sprint-centar.com, www.sprint-centar.com. Bicycles repair. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Studio 2X M-2, Crnčićeva 7, tel. 091 250 30 37/ 091 254 71 24, fax 64 25 94, info@studio2x.hr, www. studio2x.hr. Photography and web design services. Call for Zoran - 091 254 71 24 or Erik - 091 250 30 37! Zambelli D-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel./fax 31 32 62. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. KVARNER Foto Kurti E-2, Užarska 20, tel. 33 30 13, fax 31 58 53 Private clinics Sun. Poliklinika za ginekologiju i opstetriciju F-1/F-2, Strossmayerova 19, tel./fax 37 12 72. QOpen 14:30 20:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dental K-3, Lošinjska 16, tel./fax 63 43 13, dental@ inet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Call the experts 31 73 68, www.alexandra-dobrafrizura.hr. Let Rijeka’s best hairdressers sort that wig of yours out. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Biomedica D-2, Andrije Medulića 1, tel. 32 42 92. Massage and beauty services. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Fri 13:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Blitz O-3, Krešimirova 3a, tel./fax 21 52 19. Self service laundrie. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sat 06:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Comfort Zone Space Bonavia Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), tel. 35 71 75, fax 33 02 43, bonavia@ biokozmetika.hr, www.biokozmetika.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Express usluge E-2, Sokol kula 4, tel./fax 33 11 89. Shoes repair. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Aleksandra E-2, Andrije Medulića 4, tel. 31 73 67, fax Dentist Dean Vukanović K-3, Lošinjska 16, tel./fax 71 80 60, tel. 091 121 63 95, stom.ord@hi.t-com.hr, www. dental-vukanovic.hr. Call for appointment. On Saturday they work by arrangement. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Thu 14:00 - 19:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Emergency health care b.b., tel. 67 29 92/ 67 16 93, fax 67 16 49. 24-hour emergency health care. Klinički bolnički centar Rijeka A-2, Krešimirova 42, tel. 65 81 11, fax 33 75 36, www.kbc-rijeka.hr. Rijeka’s general hospital. Hitna medicinska pomoć N-2, Branka Blečića Culture Cinemas and cultural centres City Puppet Theatre B-1, Blaža Polića 6, tel. 32 56 80, fax 32 56 91, gradsko-kazaliste-lutaka@ ri.htnet.hr, www.gkl-rijeka.hr. Vets Veterinary clinic Rijeka P-2, Stube Marka Remsa 1, tel. 34 50 33, fax 32 01 39, vet.st.ri@ri.t-com.hr. During non working hours and night shifts vet is on duty on tel: 091/ 214 88 22 on which you can call in case for an emergency QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. Veterinary clinic Sušak R-3, Mihanovićeva 51a, tel. 43 10 09. For emergency call 091 595 96 50. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 and 16:00-20:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. F-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. 37 35 02, fax 37 35 34, hkd.mfms@ri.t-com.hr, www.hkd-teatar.com. Comfy medium-sized venue for plays, modern dance and the occasional art-film season. There’s a ground-floor cafe and contemporary art gallery too. Teatro Fenice Cinema C-1, Dolac 13, tel. 21 45 16/ 33 52 25, fax 33 64 50, rijekakino@rijekakino. hr, www.rijekakino.hr. Lovely old theatre dating from the pre-World War I period and now serving as both a cinema and a venue for plays and musicals. Sušak House of Culture (Kulturni Dom Sušak) Tax free heaven! Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form. Uljarska 1, tel. 21 12 68, www.hnk-zajc.hr. Named after Rijeka-born composer Zajc (1832-1914), this is very much the city’s cultural flagship, providing a plush and opulent venue for top-quality theatre, opera, ballet and musicals. Most of the drama is in Croatian but there are regular Italian-language performances too. Drama, opera and ballet Ivan pl.Zajc Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc) E-3, Health insurance Keep your health insurance certificate handy – if you need healthcare, you’ll need to show it to get free treatment in hospitals and clinics. This applies to visitors from most European countries. British, Polish and Bulgarian citizens need only show their passport. Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 54 KVARNER Primorje Crikvenica Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kastel now stands (and which gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expensive – as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry). Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The aquarium (Vinodolska 8, open 09:00-23:00) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating. Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka. KVARNER Krk So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. it’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer. Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower. The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen as inscriptions on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries! Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe. 55 Beaches (inc. nudist) Yup, you’re right, from the centre of Rijeka you can’t see too many sparkling beaches. Where do the locals go to swim? In the city itself, the grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas besides. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the Bivio cove below the Kantrida neighbourhood is also good for swimming, while Preluk is perfect for winsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Opatija itself has two good beaches, Lido and Slatina, with clean water and beautiful surroundings. Some parts are rocky, some are paved. For natural pebble beaches, head for Ičići, Medveja, or Mošćenička Draga – the furthest away, but possibly the nicest. The islands have countless beaches which even the most princessy would have trouble finding fault with. On Krk, Baška is a spectacular beach backed by a resort, great for families, while Stara Baška is more secluded but harder to get to. Punat is great for windsurfers. Rab island is famous for its shallow sandy beaches, of which the largest and most popular is Rajska plaža (“Paradise Beach”) by the San Marino campsite. Puderica beach is Rab’s answer to Ibiza, with an all-night house club (it’s between Barbat and the ferryport). On Cres, Valun beach is at the foot of a gorgeous little hamlet, and the threat of a steep climb back up the hill is the price you pay for the beach we’ll call the most stunning at Lubenice. On Lošinj, head for Sunčana uvala (“Sunny Cove”). Susak Island is one big, sandy beach – you can swim from anywhere on its shore. Wherever you are, if you’re prepared to move a little off the beaten track, you’ll come across clean, quiet places with the privacy to indulge in a little skinny-dipping if you so choose. Speaking of which, nudist beaches are marked FKK. Rab Island has the longest tradtion of naturism – there are several of them at Lopar, one of the most beautiful and most popular being Sahara – shallow and sandy. Kandarola is a rocky alternative. On Krk, the Banculuka campsite at Baška and Konobe in Punat are naturist, as is part of the Kovačine campsite’s beach on Cres. Finally, if you have – or hire – a boat, that’s the perfect way to find the best beaches of all. Novi Vinodolski This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley – literally “Wine Valley” – a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion ever since. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded. You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob – a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written – an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with – maybe that’s why Vinodol’s s u m m e r c a r n i va l is so popular. Novi is a simple place, i d eal i f you d on’ t like commercialised resorts. Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual clover-leaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings. By the seafront is the main square, Vela Placa, with the city sentinel (1493). You can relax over a coffee here, or in the Volsonis cocktail bar under the Stanić gallery, you can revel in the decadence of resting your drink on Roman remains. The sacrificial altar downstairs is rather… pretty! The gallery itself is a good place to pick up an authentic piece of artwork. Along the waterfront, heading away from the beach, Casa di Padrone is a stylish – if expensive – place to be a lounge lizard. Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over. Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind t h e c ro wd s a t h i g h season. For gastron omy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the nor thern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. It’s surrounded by vineyards where Žlahtina, a type Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008 56 KVARNER of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything. Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants. Try Konoba Nada – a very traditional stone inn, and highly thought of by the islanders. Glavača 22, tel. (051) 85 70 65. Reserve in advance – it’s very small and very popular. I f you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. Th e vi ew from th e lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides pu n c tuate d by d r y stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites. One final tip – for a truly authentic taste of island hospitality, we recommend you head for Poljica, a little place on the way to the ferry at Valbiska. Here, Konoba “Tri maruna” (The Three Chestnuts) looks like it hasn’t changed for years with its muddle of antique ornaments and stone walls. We feasted on lamb, and all proclaimed the šurlice (a type of handmade pasta specific to Krk) with wild boar goulash to be utterly delicious. It’s on the square just by the church. KVARNER 57 Rab Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty. Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs. www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing. One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky. Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone. Wh eth er you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itsel f is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. L o p a r i t s e l f, t h o u g h a p e r fe c t l y p l e a s a n t resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities. Cres The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies. Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be. The mountainous north of Cres shelters the eco centre Caput Insulae at Beli, a non-profit organisation dedicated to protecting the natural environment of the Grif fin Vulture – this is one of this rare bird’s last habitats in Europe – and h elping the birds themselves to sur vive. Despite their scar y-sounding name, G r i f fo n Vu l t u r e s a r e carrion-eaters, i.e. they only eat dead flesh, and as such they are valuable in preventing the spread of disease. The centre runs volunteer programmes and hosts two permanent exhibitions: The Biodiversity of the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago and The History of Beli and Tramuntana (the northen part of Cres, a karst region carpeted with sage and forest and grazed by sheep). Check out www.caput-insulae.com to find out more. Moving south, you come to Cres town, today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice – it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the freshly opened museum with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has just been renovated, and the feeling of enjoying a coffee there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel. Summer 2008 58 KVARNER A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque redr o o fe d h o u s e s straggling up the hillside away from th e water, wi th a wi d e s h i n gl e beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings. Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archaeological Collection of Osor. RUINED CASTLES Mali Lošinj You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and – like Susak – carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil. Although mali means “little” and veli means “ b i g”, M a l i Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by t h e c o l o u r fu l villas buil t by th e islan d’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today. Castles and For tresses of Primorsko - goranska County The Vinodol Valley is one of Croatia’s many hidden gems. It stretches 40 kilometers southeast from Rijeka between two mountains ranges that parallel the Adriatic seacoast. The scenery is spectacular, with bald, 1000 meter mountains looming above the valley. The sea and the island of Krk lie to the west. Vinodol has played a key role in Croatian history. The Romans settled the area in the first century. Slavs colonized Vinodol in the 7th century. In 1225 the Croatian-Hungarian King, Andrew II, bequeathed Vinodol to the Princes of Krk, later known as the Frankopans. They and another well-known Croatian noble family who were cousins of the Frankopans, the Zrinskis, held sway over Vinodol for the succeeding four centuries. They constructed nine castles in Vinodol as district centers and to defend against foreign invaders: Novi Vinodolski, Ledenice, Bribir, Grizane, Drivenik, Hreljin, Bakar, Trsat and Grobnik. Another significant Vinodol event was the enactment of Croatia’s first legal code, “The Law of Vinodol”. Enacted in 1288, it is one of Europe’s oldest legal documents. Nearly all of the nine castles are perched on hilltops, and communication between them was possible by sight. Even today, when standing in one of the castles in some cases it is possible to view the next castle to the north or south. Their conditions vary. Some, such as Grobnik, Trsat, Drivenik, Bribir and Novi Vinodolski are in middle of towns and have been partially or completely restored while others, such as Grizane and Ledenice, are in a ruined state, although even those retain their charm. It is possible to see all nine castles in one, long day, although it’d be better to go at a more leisurely pace and take two or three days to enjoy this tour. Trsat, clearly visible just to the south of the main highway through Rijeka, is located atop a 138 meter hill in the middle of the city. From there is a great view of the city and its harbor. The Romans were the first to build a fort there. Under the Frankopans, Trsat played a significant role in defense against the Turks, but with advances in military technology it lost its strategic importance. In 1824 a retired a general in the Austrian Army of Irish descent, Laval Nugent, purchased Trsat and reconstructed it into a residence and museum. It is still a museum today. Getting to Trsat is a fairly simple matter. Once you get to downtown Rijeka there are numerous signs pointing the way. The castle is pictured below. 59 www.inyourpocket.com Rijeka In Your Pocket Grobnik is located on a hilltop in a village of the same name on the eastern outskirts of Rijeka. You can access Grobnik from an exit just west of the tollbooth on highway A6. Signs clearly mark the way to the castle and you can drive right up to it. There is an excellent view of the mountains to the east from Grobnik, which has been substantially restored, almost too much. The next Frankopan castle in Vinodol to the south is Hreljin. From Grobnik retrace your route to the highway and go east (towards Zagreb), taking the first exit, for “Otok Krk”, which is after a long ascent. A windy road descends from the exit to Hreljin. The modern day village is on the road, but the ruins, actually the remains of an entire town, are on a bluff above. There are some steep trails that you can climb from the main road, but you can also reach the old town on a dirt road. There are extensive views to the west from Hreljin of Krk Island, best enjoyed if you can somehow block the rather intrusive view of the oil refinery and tank farm just south of Rijeka. To get to Drivenik, continue descending the same road to the south from Hreljin. When you get to the village of Križišče, be sure to take the left fork in the road. It is about 4 kilometers to Drivenik. Happily, there a sign pointing the way up to the castle, a nicely restored ruin on a hill in the middle of the valley. There are great views in all directions, especially to the east, where an escarpment rises sharply to around 1000 meters. Like m ost Frankopan castl es, Drivenik is roughly square in shape and has four round towers at each corner. Originally there was a moat around the castle. Just below the castle, adjacent to where you can park your car, is tiny St. Dujam’s Church, which was constructed in 1806. Another 4 kilometers further south on the same road are the spectacularly situated ruins of Grižane, built into a cliff on the eastern side of the valley above the village of the same name. Another Frankopan quadrangular fortress with four round towers (as you can see, the Frankopan architects liked this configuration), it was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1323. Afterwards, it was abandoned. You must go by foot to reach Grižane Castle. There are no marked trails, but someone from the village below can show you the way. If you like to hike it’s worth the 15 minutes climb, because the view of the Vinodol Valley is excellent from the ruin. You can see Drivenik to the north and the remains of a small, medieval, Frankopan fort on the opposite side of the valley Summer 2008 60 RUINED CASTLES called Badanj. You can reach Badanj by taking a narrow, winding road down from Grižane to the valley floor, from which the fort is clearly visible. There is a clearly marked trail to Badanj, again about a 15 minute climb and from which there is spectacular scenery. Another 12 kilometers further south on the same road is Bribir, where a quadrangular tower originally constructed in 1302 is all that remains of a 12th century Zrinski castle fortress. The town has restored the tower but rather incongruously built a sort of glass widow’s walk at the top. A quick look from the road passing through town is all that is necessary. In the center of Bribir take the left fork in the road, don’t go down toward Novi Vinodolski (right fork). When you get to the next intersection (about 4 kilometers), turn left towards Breze, then soon after that turn right and descend to Ledenice. Above the modern day village are the ruins of Ledenice old town and church. Yet another fantastic view can be had in all directions from Ledenice, especially of the mountains to the south and east and the island of Krk to the west. Particularly interesting are the ruins of St. Stephen’s Church, which was destroyed by fire in the late 17th century. A stone cross atop the peak of the roof survives as a vestige of the old town’s heyday. Take the coastal road, route 8, from Novi Vinodolski back to Rijeka. It’s worth taking a quick look at the Frankopan Castle in Kraljevica (again, square shaped with round towers at each corner!), which is visible from the main road. The courtyard’s cloister is quite attractive. Nine kilometers further north is Bakar. Its mysterious, narrow streets fan down from Bakar Castle to Bakar Bay. Were it not for the petroleum refinery just to the south, this town would have much greater appeal. There is a sign post at the bottom of a rough gravel track leading to the ruins of Ledenice. From there it takes about twenty minutes to climb to the old town. The trail is well marked. For centuries Ledenice guarded the southern entrance to the Vinodol Va l l e y. Th e Tu r k s attacked Ledenice several times between 1522 and 1577, but they never captured it. In the early 18th century, after it lost its strategic importance, the hill top old town was abandoned in favor of settling the verdant and less exposed valley below. It’s time now to start heading back to Rijeka. Turn left when exiting the track to Ledenice and make the long descent (8 kilometers) to Novi Vinodolski on the coast. Here the famous legal code was enacted in 1288. When the Turks commenced their attacks in the area in the 1490s and 1500s, the Zrinskis moved the Vinodol administrative center out of Novi Vinodolski 33 kilometers north, to Bakar. The castle in Novi Vinodolski has been completely restored and redeveloped into an office and shopping center. It’s reasonably attractive but not of much interest. Neither the national government tourist offices nor travel agencies in the country promote the Vinodol Valley and its castles, but they are definitely worth seeing. The fact that the Zrinskis and Frankopan families both played such a crucial role in Croatian history lends majesty to them. For example, Nicholas Zrinski, a prominent military commander, won a series of victories on behalf of the Hapsburg Empire over the Ottoman Turks during the mid 16th century, culminating in the battle of Babócsa in 1556. Perhaps even more famous was the defense of Siget fortress, Hungary in 1566, when Nikolas Zrinski with a garrison of only 2500 Croats stopped a vastly larger Turkish army that was intending to march on Vienna. In this battle both Zrinski and Suleiman the Magnificent died. What thanks did this bravery and heroics get these two families? Not much. The burning desire of the Hapsburgs to gain access to a warm water seaport and perhaps overly independent behavior on the part of the Zrinskis and Frankopans not to the Hapsburgs’ liking led to their luring Petar Zrinski and Fran Krsto Frankopan to Vienna on false pretenses. There the Hapburgs executed these two patriotic patriarchs in 1671. After that, the influence of the two families in Vinodol declined and their estates were broken up. Story by Tocher Mitchell Rijeka In Your Pocket 62 STREET REGISTER Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2 Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 . Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3 Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1 Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1 Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2 Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1,F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 STREET REGISTER Šime Ljubića D-2 Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3 Veslarska E-2 Viktora cara Emina O-2, P-3 / A-1 Vinka Benca M-2, N-2 Viškovo L-1 Vodovodna E-1 Vrlije V-1 Vukovarska N-2, O-2 Wenzelova E-3 Zadarska C-2 Zagrebačka D-3 Zametska L-2, M-2 Zanonova C-2, D-2 Zaobilaznica G-2, S-1 Zvonimirova M-2, N-2 Žabica B-2, C-2 Žrtava fašizma Q-3 / D-1, E-1 63 RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Maritime and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace City Museum Natural History Museum Palace of Justice St. Vitus’ Church St. Sebastian’s Church Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” Old Town Hall in Rijeka Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower “Modello” Palace Main market Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas City Tower “Ploech” Palace Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery Railway station P/B “Uragan” State archives Rijeka Rijeka In Your Pocket Summer 2008