A new menu this spring means that you just have to get along here, to what is the InterContinental's showpiece restaurant. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch, and it is all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer. The warm foie gras with onion confit starter was probably our favourite dish, however. Prices are high-ish, but reflect quality, and by no means reach the levels of a few other places we could mention.

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