I am sure the owner of this place will not mind us calling him 'the most famous celebrity chef in the country,' though he would be the first to admit that he is no chef. A gourmand would be a more pertinent epithet, a polymath who has travelled the world tasting and sampling cuisines, and who then returned home to put his experience to good use. And that's what we have here: a sensational fusion of flavours and textures, all done with care, hence the genuine concern if something is not thought to be up to scratch. Not that that has ever happened to us: we love eating here, for though it's not cheap, everything on the adventurous, ever-changing menu is worth every cent.

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