The exterior is as opulently fin de siècle as the interior. Everywhere you look there’s an authentic high backed Rennie Makintosh chair, period fire place or Murano glass ash tray. Seating is limited and as it’s attached to a small hotel it can fill up easily. They run a safe European menu of pasta dishes, meat confits, hearty Russian soups and the odd spoon of caviar and sturgeon filled pie. You pay more here for the quiet and intimate atmosphere than the food itself, although as regards the mains there’s certainly little to complain about and staff are very gracious about any extra ‘rarer steak/less dill’ requests you may have.

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