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The secrets of Russian caviar

It is strange: suddenly I feel like a five-year-old boy again, holding my mother’s hand as we enter the big toyshop in the city near my hometown. So many beautiful things to see. Some 37 years later it feels like I am taking those little footsteps in paradise all over again. The IYP dinner table is filled with caviar.There is osetra, the dark-brown-to-golden stuff that comes from the ‘common’ sturgeon. There is salmon caviar from the Kamchatka Peninsula, where poachers are caught up in a never ending battle with local law-enforcement officers. And, of course, there is black beluga. Coming from the largest species of Caspian Sea sturgeon, beluga caviar is supposed to be light to dark grey in colour, with large granules and a delicate skin. To put this test into action, we went from street markets to exclusive shopping malls to unravel for you the secrets of red, white, and black caviar.Ugh! It’s like I just licked my handkerchief while suffering from a terrible cold. This white pike caviar, in a 113-gram tin, is definitely a big disappointment. It only costs 95 Rbl, but that’s way too much for this one. Too salty and too slimy.What is next? Ikra sudaka, also white caviar. A bit cheaper than the first pick (in financial terms): 30 rubles were on this 125-gram can, which looks like a tin of cat food. Well, it would be a waste of time to go out on the streets again looking for ikra sudaka. Even when put on toast the salty flavour does not get any better.Red salmon caviar (ikra lososevaya) from Kamchatka must be a better pick, at least theoretically. To get the contents of this 140-gram tin into your mouth, you have to get 170 Rbl out of your wallet. This caviar may be a permanent object of desire to the salmon poachers of the Kamchatka Peninsula, but I will not be hooked. It makes me feel like eating blueberries that have been lying in polluted sea water.But I will stay with salmon for a while. Just for the fun of it. So the 100-gram can of kete caviar – worth 140 Rbl – is to be opened. Wow, this is a big change! For the better that is. This one has a nice, orange glow to it. And it tastes only lightly salted, like it’s meant to be.Next up is a 100-gram tin of trout caviar. And can be swiftly ignored, if you ask me. This one is no treat. The 170 Rbl we paid for it were a waste of money and time. I want to go back to the salmon once more. A 100-gram tin of chatyze – for 145 Rbl – has been put in front of me. The first bite gives me a happy feeling. And that feeling does not change on second tasting. Now I am beginning to understand why caviar is one of Russia’s most treasured goods.It is time to get to what promises to be the main attraction of this test: the black caviars. A can of 28.4 grams of sevruga – worth 400 Rbl – is my first pick. For some reason I don’t hear the drum-roll that heralds a major event, and after putting a small portion of the sevruga in my mouth, I understand why. This tastes disgusting, like someone urinated over it. Is this what black caviar is about?I can not deal with the tension any longer. I have to get a bite of the beluga. Also a can of 28.4 grams. A small but expensive can, if I may say so. This delicacy has pulled 750 Rbl out of the IYP budget. Well, the most expensive caviar is not necessarily the one that tastes best. Actually, the beluga has a rather cheap flavour. And in my opinion it is a bit too slimy.Only one brand of caviar left to eat: osetrin. Again 28.4 grams of black eggs, but 290 Rbl less expensive than the beluga. Okay. After this one I am convinced. Caviar indeed can be a mouth-watering sensation. The osetrin is tasty. For one second I need to make a comparison with whisky. This can be called a single malt whisky which has been ripening for some fifteen years. Thanks to the osetrin this caviar test will remain a pleasant memory.

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