Intro

Sandwiched between Lithuania and Poland, it’s fair to say no other part of Eastern Europe manages to court as much negative press as Kaliningrad: dubbed a ‘corridor of crime,’ it’s perhaps better known for AIDS epidemics, drugs plagues, pollution and bleak tower blocks. Amazingly, though, there is a life beyond the horror stories.

Once the seat of the Teutonic knights, what was once the grand Prussian city of Koenigsberg now offers a surreal, unique experience to the more intrepid traveler. Busts of Marx still line streets, and it’s not rare to find hard core communists still picketing government buildings for a return to the old days. Having been obliterated during the war, Kaliningrad can now boast a surprising number of attractive parks and gardens, some surviving remnants of the city’s German heritage and an interesting selection of war time monuments and museums.

Having been closed to Western visitors for nearly half a century the city is a fascinating living lesson in history, and untainted by the development of Sheraton hotels and cheeseburger culture. Armed with patience, and a sense of humour, Kaliningrad is a challenging, unforgettable and ultimately rewarding destination. Nearby, Svetlogorsk is a verdant coastal spa resort which has lost none of its charm while the Kursche Spit is a beautiful sand peninsula extending nearly 100km (63 miles) along the coast - a rich habitat for plants and animals. Ignore the media rumours, and enjoy it while it lasts.