Peter the Great is probably the most famous boating enthusiast in Russian history. His obsession with all things naval began in 1688 when as a youngster he found a small English boat in the grounds of the royal estate in Izmailovo, Moscow. With the help of his Dutch tutor, the boat was restored and new sails and rigging were added. From this day on Peter was obsessed. He travelled to the Netherlands to learn about navigation and ship building and made designs for a capital city that would be navigable by water. To this day St. Petersburg is still full of ships and there’s plenty of fun ways to get out on the water and enjoy the city in a style that Peter himself would be proud of. Here are our personal top 20.
By Louise Whitworth
1. The bridges
Every night St. Petersburg’s bridges open to let large ships pass down the river. Contrary to popular belief a lot of large ships and oil tankers can actually be spotted though they are always out-numbered by smaller pleasure boats filled with rowdy crowds.
2. Central Naval Museum
D-3, Birzhevaya pl. 4, Metro station Vasileostrovskaya, tel. 328 25 02, www.museum.navy.ru. Located in the former stock-exchange building, this museum shows the history of the Russian and Soviet Navy, from the time of Peter the Great until the present. Its exhibits include uniforms, flags and even a submarine complete with loaded torpedoes. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission foreigners 120-350Rbl, Russians 50-100Rbl. Photography 60Rbl, video 100Rbl.
3. Get yourself a telnyashka If you want to look the part then you need one of these blue and white stripy tops. Typically you can get them for bargain prices at local military shops, for example at Kanal Griboedeva 10. And if you really want to get all out and give yourself the imperial naval fleet treatment get yourself a three-cornered hat from the treugolka shop at 6 Italianskaya ul D-3 (enter into the courtyard and it’s to the right of the hairdressers).
4. Flying Dutchman
D-2, Mytnenskaya nab. 6, Metro stationSportivnaya, tel. 336 37 37, www.gollandec.ru. The first thing you notice about this hulking construction on the side of the Neva is the fitness centre. But there is so much more... like for instance the restaurant. The Flying Dutchman serves Russian and Latino-American cuisine amid a luxurious glass encased dining space and a fantastic view of the Neva. The sailing ship, a model of the 18th-century barque Amsterdam, also has a beauty salon. Open: 10:00 until last guest. (1500Rbl).
5. Kronshtadt
The strategic naval base of Kronshtadt was founded on Kotlin island in 1704. Kronshtadt is famous because, in 1921, its battalion mutinied against the Bolshevik’s harsh revolutionary policies. The government’s response was to slaughter almost the entire battalion. During Soviet times, the city was closed. It opened in 1996, and, today, it’s a charming place to wander and look at rusting warships, naval symbols and other remains of Soviet naval glory. The city’s striking Byzantine cathedral has an excellent museum of naval and local history, although it’s only in Russian. There are also some very pleasant old restaurants scattered about town. GETTING THERE: From Chernaya Rechka metro, take marshrutka 405, 406, from Staraya Derevnya metro, take bus 101, from Pr. Prosveshcheniya metro, take marshrutka 407.
6. Blagodat
D-2, Petrovsky nab. 2, Metro station Pl. Lenina, tel. 327 25 08, www.fregat-blagodat.ru. This huge Dutch-style frigate doesn’t actually go anywhere but you can still go up on the deck to the Veter (wind) café and restaurant and feel like a pirate amongst all the rigging. Down in the hull there’s even more places to behave like a rowdy buccaneer with the intriguingly named Imperial Pleasure restaurant serving up big humps of steak and schnitzels. They even have karaoke!(900Rbl).
7. Cruiser Avrora
E-2, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., Metro stationPl. Lenina, tel. 230 84 40, www. aurora.org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat a Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Open 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission free. Excursions: foreigners 50-200Rbl, Russians 30-80Rbl.
8. Speedboats to Peterhof
Going to Peterhof is one of summer’s highlights. If you want to have a memorable trip, jump on a Meteor speedboat that leaves from 38 Dvortsovaya Naberezhnaya (in front of the Hermitage). Open 10:00 - 16:00. Boats leave every 30 minutes. Tickets cost 400 one way and 700Rbl return. On Fri, Sat and Sun price is 50Rbl higher. Discounts for children and students.
9. The Tall Ships Race
From July 11 to July 14 some truly majestic beauties from around the world will be sailing into town as part of the 2009 Tall Ships Race. Quite a sight me hearties!
10. Jazz Boat
D-3, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, Metro stationGostiny Dvor, www.jckvadrat.ru. Respected local jazz musicians serenade a rhythm hungry crowd as you float around the city on the Jazz Philharmony’s summer jazz boat. On the upper deck the group Moscow plays Dixieland, whilst the lower deck hosts musicians playing more complex and modern jazz. Show starts Wed, Thu, Fri at 20:00, Sat, Sun 16:00. Tickets are available in theatre box offices. Price 550 - 700Rbl.
11. Take a cruise
Years ago it was possible to book a place on one of the huge liners leaving St. Petersburg for other cities on the Baltic Sea such as Helsinki and Stockholm. Sadly those days are past and the only way to make such a trip is by booking yourself on to a private cruise, which usually leave from the Nordic countries and arrive here (and not the other way around). Likewise during the summer months river cruise boats still leave on week long trips to Moscow, but you can only get yourself a place as part of an organized tour. These tours are expensive (upwards of 700$) but are a wonderful way to see the nature and old towns of Northern Russia. Companies offering such tours include Viking lines and Vodohod Cruise Company.
12. New Island
C/D-3, Universitatskaya nab. 15, Metro stationVasileostrovskaya, tel. 320 21 20, www.concord-catering.ru. New Island claims to be St. Petersburg’s only luxury floating restaurant. With its own state of the art kitchen on board the well-presented fish and fusion dishes arrive promptly at your table just as the boat is floating past another beautiful palace on its way to Smolny. Great view but take care if you are in any way prone to motion sickness… Boats leave at 14:00, 18:00, 20:00, 22:30. (800Rbl).
13. Boat tours
Floating around the canals and rivers is the best way to see St. Petersburg in the summer. If you haven’t been on a boat tour yet, then you haven’t really seen the city at all! Anglo-tourismo and Astra marine are just some of the many companies offering tours.
14.Krestovsky Ostrov
If you are looking for luxury yachts and speedboats, this is the prime place to come. St. Petersburg’s rich and famous keep their boats here in the marina. If you are feeling jealous and want to get out on the water yourself, there are always pedalos for rent.
15. Shiver me timbers! Get in the mood and serenade your sailor woman or man with this classic Russian ballad from the high seas. Every-body.... ‘Ty moryachka ya moryak Ty rybachka ya rybak Ty na sushe ya na more My ne vstretimsya nikak!’ Which roughly translated means something like: ‘You’re a sailor woman, I’m a sailor man You’re a fisherwoman, I’m a fisherman You’re on the land and I’m in the sea And so a meeting together never can be!’
16. Boat bars
What better way to spend the evening than drinking on a moored boat on the banks of the river. Our favourites include the small grungy one at Universitatskaya nab. 3 (D-3) and the very swish new Lastochka bar and restaurant further down at Universtatskaya nab. 5. If you’re looking for strippers Zabava Bar strip club (D-2 Nab. Myatninskaya) has a whole boat full of them.
17. Icebreaker Krasin
C-3, 47 Nab. Leitenanta Shmidta, Metro stationVasileostrovskaya, tel. 325 35 46. The Krasin (built in 1916) was the world’s first icebreaker and although it’s now simply a museum, back in the day it was well respected around the world for taking part in a number of high-profile rescue missions. Although the ship’s equipment actually works, it can only be viewed during special tours, which are far superior to the regular tours. A regular tour will take you around the living quarters, the navigation rooms and the bridge. Unfortunately tours are given in Russian by an old sea-captain who speaks at about 200 knots an hour (at least ours was) and hence can be rather boring. Tours leave everyday on the hour from 11:00 - 17:00. Tours of the engine rooms and icebreaking equipment leave Sat and Sun at 13:00 and 15:00. Admission foreigners 200Rbl, Russians 100Rbl, students 50Rbl.
18. Historical monuments
There are plenty of important historical shipping sights in St. Petersburg which are a must see for any maritime enthusiast. Some of the most famous include New Holland (C-3) Peter the Great’s Dutch inspired Arsenal island, the Admiralty (D-3) which functions as St. Petersburg’s Naval college and that very same boat which inspired Peter to became a sailor - now installed in the Peter and Paul fortress.
19. Submarine D-2 Narodovolets
A-3, Shkiprsky protok 10, Metro station Vasileostrovskaya, tel. 356 52 77. Put into service in 1931, the Narodovolets was one of the first submarines in the Soviet Union. Inside the submarine itself if there are more than ten of you it can feel a little claustrophobic (or is that atmospheric?) although not half as much as it must have been when it was full with its 53 crew members. Everything has been faithfully preserved here, right down to the beds and the tiny kitchen and visitors are left free to wander up and down the narrow space, crawling in and out of hatches and staring down the torpedo chutes to their heart’s delight. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thursday of the month. Admission foreigners 150 - 300Rbl, Russians 50 - 150Rbl.
20. Day of the Russian Fleet If after all that you still haven’t got your fix then you certainly will be all shipped-out after the Day of the Russian fleet. More drunken sailors than the pirates of the Caribbean series and some of the biggest war ships you can imagine flood the town to celebrate on July 26. Head to the Naval base of Krohnstadt for the chance to see the interior of a real, working Russian warship.