New Russia. The Russia of 24 hour sushi, cocktail bars, girls with skirts so short they could make Paris Hilton blush and businessmen so rich they can afford to shower in champagne. Whatever happened to the grimy Soviet fashion, architecture and uninspired eating options? Russia is now as fashionable and forward thinking as anywhere else in Europe, but if you’re still looking for the tastes of yesterday, have no fear, lurking beneath the shiny glass and neon lighting, little pockets of genuine Soviet businesses remain. Welcome back to the USSR!

By Louise Whitworth


Get in Line
Ok, so nobody stands in line for hours any more, but if you would like to give your legs some exercise and your brain some hard work, there are still places where you can queue endlessly for god only knows what. Queue spotters will be thrilled to see the situation in the local post office for example. Many windows with confusing names and a dispersed group of people greet the visitor. The modus operandi here is to front up to someone and ask ‘kto pasledny?’ who is last? - queuing depends largely on keeping track of who is in front of you, as in Russian queues it's quite acceptable to pop out for a cigarette and come back 10 minutes later to claim your place.

They will probably reply ‘kakoi otdel?’ for which window, which is when the confusion starts. If for example you need to send a parcel, you will probably need to buy stickers for the parcel at one window, but collect the stickers at another, then get your parcel weighed at a third window, before finally having it set through a fourth window. The train station also usually has long queues for services and aggressive crowds that will truly make you appreciate the patience of the Soviet citizen.

Eating Out
Restaurants and dining out were simply not a concept in the Soviet Union and it was not unusual to pass cafes at 1pm with signs outside reading ‘closed for staff lunch’. If people did go out for lunch they usually went to a stolovaya or canteen, where soups, meat kotlets and sweet compote (berry juice) were on the menu. Many of these places still exist, for example hidden down the alleyway at 1 Malaya Morskaya ul., metro Nevsky pr. Alternatively if you want to pick up a coffee and a snack then you shouldn’t miss out on pyshki, the ultimate cheap and greasy, quick and easy Soviet snack. These sugary doughnuts are served up in no-frills style and locals can often be seen queuing out the door to get their hands on them. One of the most famous and most authentic places can be found at ul. Bolshaya Konyushenaya 25, metro Nevsky pr. For a more modern experience in Soviet kitsch surroundings see our restaurant listings.

Go Shopping
In the Soviet Union there was usually only one choice of everything, but nowadays supermarkets are full of various different brands. However, some favourites from years gone by still exist, complete with their original packaging. Some of the most popular products include sgushyonka, a sweet and thick condensed milk, which is often eaten on pancakes and is sold in cans with a classic blue design. Alyonka is one of the brands of the Red October Chocolate Factory that also retains its classic kitsch packaging and taste, whilst most small sweets and chocolates that you can buy with names such as mishka na severe and lastochka were top sellers 50 years ago. Even the hardest smokers will find a puff of the filter-less Belmor Kanal brand completely poisonous, but yet they are found in every kiosk for about 12 Rbl a packet. And finally no kitchen would be complete without a ‘doktorskaya’ kolbasa (sausage). This steamed and smoked sausage is somewhere between spam and salami and finds its way into half the salads served in a Russian home. The smiling Doktor on the packet (and most Russians too) will tell you its good for you, but healthy or not, if the USSR were a food, it would be the Doktorskaya.

Time for a drink
The ryomochnaya is sometimes called the alcoholic’s fast food. Coming from the Russian word for a shot glass or ryumka. In their purest form they are just the spot to down some vodka or cognac, generally with stand up service only, no toilets, and no substantial food either, usually just a few snacks or pickles. They can be found all over the place, for example at Kaznachenskaya ul 5 (metro Sennaya ploschad). For a slightly less frightening experience you can also try the cheap Soviet kitsch bar Chert Poberi, ulitsa Sadovaya 28/30, metro Nevsky pr. This fun little cave is full to the brim with Soviet memorabilia, retro music and prices that reflect days gone by.

Interior design
In St. Petersburg you are spoiled for choice when it comes to art, but f you want to pick up some classic Soviet design pieces and works of Socialist realism to decorate your home you often have to dig a little bit further. If you want to get your hands on some art made by the communists of yesterday and today then head to Liberty Art Gallery, ulitsa Pestelya 17/25, metro Chernyshevskaya. The many rooms house some of the finest pieces of Socialist realist art that are currently available to buy. If you are looking for authentic antiques you should probably head to Udelnaya market, the city’s largest open-air flea market. Admittedly there is tons of garbage here, but there are also some great gems to be found such as old Zenit cameras, beautiful 12-sided glasses, rare clocks and watches as well as plenty of coins, medals, spoons and other nick-nacks. You’ll also witness the largest grouping of babushkas in Russia sitting together and selling their household goods, plus of course all the trappings of the modern world such as pirate DVDs and Chinese toys. To get there head out of metro Udelnaya (blue line), turn right, cross the railroad tracks and go right. It's behind the grouping of kiosks.