The Russian Goblet is a Russian restaurant that has risen like a phoenix from the flames of the former posh Thai restaurant Ruan Thai that once occupied the same premises. The strange layout of the interior that greets you reminds you of how it once was, only now those diaphanous curtains are printed with medieval Russian scenes instead of dragons and mist-shrouded hills while the odd samovar and stuffed bear has been put in a corner to remind you that this is a Russian joint. A browse through the menu had us smiling as we saw all our favourite peasant fare present and accounted for at very reasonable prices.

For starters we opted for the chicken broth and pancakes with sour cream and red caviar. The chicken broth with plenty of chicken, noodles and other goodness floating about in it, it was a great warming starter on a day when the temperature outside was -20 and the pancakes also were excellent, if a little cold.

Starters quickly polished off, we sipped our spicy mulled wine and discussed the music. One moment it was Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata and the next Elvis Presley’s Suspicious Minds. Eventually we decided the music was more to entertain the staff than us, as it dawned on us we were at that point the only people there. Perhaps overhearing our conversation our bubbly waitress then skipped over to ask if we had any requests and offered to turn the music down a touch. We opted for music down and for the hilarious mix to continue.

Moving onto the mains, we got down to the real meaty heart of the meal; chicken cutlets ‘pozharsky’ and duck stuffed with bacon and mushrooms. The duck was deemed a great success, with the flavours surprisingly well complimenting each other and my guest lamented that they hadn’t given him more. I on the other hand struggled through my huge stodgy cutlets covered in mushroom sauce with a huge pile of fried potatoes on the side, but I was also delighted with it and especially appreciated the offer of a ‘lunchbox’ to take the remainders home.

Defeated by my main we decided to share a portion of apple pie. Made with apples and semolina it was a wonderful mix of gooey and spongy textures and one of the best we’d eaten in Russia.

Soon enough it was time to leave and our bored, yet for once not at all sullen young waitress, almost looked disappointed to see us heading home. So much so that she even offered us a shot of horseradish vodka on the house as we exited to help warm us for the icy journey home. All in all it was a real Russian experience in all the right ways. 

Russkaya Charka, nab. reki fontanki 92, Pushkinskaya, tel. 812 640 13 30, www.triton-restoran.ru Open 12:00 – 24:00.

Marks
Interior – 7
Food – 8
Service – 9
Atmosphere 7.5
Cost: 2,130Rbl.