Ljubljana - Vrhnika
Come spring and summertime there are endless opportunities for outdoor pursuits in Slovenia. Ljubljana is a great base and even if you're on a short city break there are active, mini adventures to be had. In and around the city is served by an exemplary network of bicycle lanes, which covers most of the way to a nearby town, Vrhnika. Approximately 22km from Ljubljana, it's a pretty little settlement with some good cycling tracks and other attractions in the surrounding countryside. The way to Vrhnika is equally easy on the eye and gives a taste of what rural Slovenia looks, feels and smells like. It makes for a great day trip.
The route
From the centre of Ljubljana head to the bottom of Slovenska Cesta and turn right at Aškerčeva Cesta. Follow the road and when you come to a big junction keep following it left (Tržaška Cesta). Once on this main road keep going straight, all the way to Vrhnika. There are opportunities to branch off into the villages but you should always return to the main road heading west.
Along the way
1.2km: Sv. Anton Padovanskega
St. Anthony's Church, standing tall on the outskirts of Ljubljana, is an impressive structure and the first picturesque landmark you will come across on the route west towards Vrhnika. The Pisa-reminiscant steeple barely reaches above the grand building itself, with its neo-Roman columns and arched roof. Good for a quick breather, drink, and prayer for therelaxing and fun long hard journey ahead.
1.2-9km: Typical Slovenian houses in Ljubljana's surrounding marshland line the main road, loosely merging a number of pretty villages along the way. You'll notice narrow waterways at the side of the road, the remnants of the former swamp in this natural basin at the southern edge of the alps. Thankfully these open drains only seem to be used for unoffensive used water, allowing one to admire the villages and hamlets without their olfactory comfort zone ever being breached, except of course for the welcome aroma of local farms.
10km: Brezovica
One notable village along the way is Brezovica. The steep forest covered slopes to the right open out into a gentle sloping hillside on which the large and well-kept houses, farms and church of Brezovica sit. Minus the mountainous backdrop (unless it's a clear day), this is almost the prototypical view of rural Slovenia; from the arable-farmed fields in the foreground to the spruce forest in the background, it's a beautiful sight.
13km: Pokopališče church
The sign for Pokopališče, a hilltop church, points to a mysterious winding road into the trees. The top represents a nice vantage point for the distant hill/mountains to the south, Ljubljana to the east and Vrhnika to the west. The only thing one has to do is keep the motorway below from entering your gaze too much.
13.5km: The fire house
Such is the traditional lifestyle in Slovenian villages, that there remain community fire stations in every one. Far from being busy fighting domestic blazes, for the most part they play other vital community roles. They are home to youth groups who learn important life and teamwork skills (like the scouts), and also the volunteers (who are all part-time) organise local events and parties called 'Veselice', with food, drink and the accordian of course!
17km: Is it a bird, is it a plane?
No, it's a spaceship lookalike that in fact seems to be possibly the most energy efficient building in Slovenia. Again on the right hand side, the ultra-modern solar panels cover the whole of the slightly upward-oriented walls. With no clear sign as to the function of the building inside, you are left wondering if it's not a stealth warship that has made it well behind some imaginary enemy lines, or those mushrooms you picked back in the forest near Brezovica weren't a little funky.
Arriving and the town
The location of the entry sign, welcoming visitors in four different languages, does little to indicate a town of over 17'000 inhabitants. You can just about make out a few brightly coloured houses (as is the recent trend in Slovenia), through the trees. All becomes clear in a few hundred metres, where the skyline, with hilltop church and houses sitting in the valley, becomes visible.
The old centre is easy to find, a right turn from the main road, where you'll see the central church. Meander around the narrow streets and ride up to its upper extremities for panoramic views of the town.
Originally an important communication way-point in Roman times, it flourished as a market town up until the 18th Century, since when it has become a less economically important satellite town of Ljubljana.
Ivan Cankar's birthplace
Na Klancu 1
Vrhnika was the home-town of the aforementioned and significant Slovenian writer. The memorial house of Cankar is a reconstruction of the old thatched cottage that once stood at the same location in the heart of the old town. 18th Century peasant living conditions have been recreated, where his original prints, photographs of himself, relatives and friends, self portraits and other artifacts are on display. Postcards, small books and other memorabilia can be bought, none of which are of the cheap, tacky variety.
OPEN: Tues-Fri: 09:00-13:00
Sat, Sun and holidays: 14:00-18:00
Around Vehnika: Star Maln
This nature reserve offers a lot of activities in the hills behind Vrhnika: bike tracks, hiking trails, watchtower for great views, picnic tables, camping and a natural swimming pool (like a small lake). After the inevitable exertions in the picturesque wooded hills, there's a cottage, guest-house and restaurant of the same name, offering local hearty fayre. To get there, continue in the same direction as from Ljubljana, then branch off to the right of the main road and keep going. Ask a friendly local if you're not sure.
Where to eat and stay
Bajc Gostišče - Sinja Gorica 12 - (+386) 17 55 34 77
This roadside guest-house is the perfect - and one of only a few places to rest your head after a good meal and extend your trip by a day. Looking after both the appetite and night-time needs of visitors - there's a newly renovated restaurant (2008) which remains somewhat traditional; plenty of pine is still to be found around the place - and comfortable, very clean rooms. All the delights of a good Slovenian gostilna are present downstairs: a large range of wine, menu of meaty dishes and also pasta, with an alpine soundtrack to match. Good everyday hospitality about 1km out of Vrhnika, back towards Ljubljana.
Come spring and summertime there are endless opportunities for outdoor pursuits in Slovenia. Ljubljana is a great base and even if you're on a short city break there are active, mini adventures to be had. In and around the city is served by an exemplary network of bicycle lanes, which covers most of the way to a nearby town, Vrhnika. Approximately 22km from Ljubljana, it's a pretty little settlement with some good cycling tracks and other attractions in the surrounding countryside. The way to Vrhnika is equally easy on the eye and gives a taste of what rural Slovenia looks, feels and smells like. It makes for a great day trip.
The route
From the centre of Ljubljana head to the bottom of Slovenska Cesta and turn right at Aškerčeva Cesta. Follow the road and when you come to a big junction keep following it left (Tržaška Cesta). Once on this main road keep going straight, all the way to Vrhnika. There are opportunities to branch off into the villages but you should always return to the main road heading west.
Along the way
1.2km: Sv. Anton Padovanskega
St. Anthony's Church, standing tall on the outskirts of Ljubljana, is an impressive structure and the first picturesque landmark you will come across on the route west towards Vrhnika. The Pisa-reminiscant steeple barely reaches above the grand building itself, with its neo-Roman columns and arched roof. Good for a quick breather, drink, and prayer for the
1.2-9km: Typical Slovenian houses in Ljubljana's surrounding marshland line the main road, loosely merging a number of pretty villages along the way. You'll notice narrow waterways at the side of the road, the remnants of the former swamp in this natural basin at the southern edge of the alps. Thankfully these open drains only seem to be used for unoffensive used water, allowing one to admire the villages and hamlets without their olfactory comfort zone ever being breached, except of course for the welcome aroma of local farms.
10km: Brezovica
One notable village along the way is Brezovica. The steep forest covered slopes to the right open out into a gentle sloping hillside on which the large and well-kept houses, farms and church of Brezovica sit. Minus the mountainous backdrop (unless it's a clear day), this is almost the prototypical view of rural Slovenia; from the arable-farmed fields in the foreground to the spruce forest in the background, it's a beautiful sight.
13km: Pokopališče church
The sign for Pokopališče, a hilltop church, points to a mysterious winding road into the trees. The top represents a nice vantage point for the distant hill/mountains to the south, Ljubljana to the east and Vrhnika to the west. The only thing one has to do is keep the motorway below from entering your gaze too much.
13.5km: The fire house
Such is the traditional lifestyle in Slovenian villages, that there remain community fire stations in every one. Far from being busy fighting domestic blazes, for the most part they play other vital community roles. They are home to youth groups who learn important life and teamwork skills (like the scouts), and also the volunteers (who are all part-time) organise local events and parties called 'Veselice', with food, drink and the accordian of course!
17km: Is it a bird, is it a plane?
No, it's a spaceship lookalike that in fact seems to be possibly the most energy efficient building in Slovenia. Again on the right hand side, the ultra-modern solar panels cover the whole of the slightly upward-oriented walls. With no clear sign as to the function of the building inside, you are left wondering if it's not a stealth warship that has made it well behind some imaginary enemy lines, or those mushrooms you picked back in the forest near Brezovica weren't a little funky.
Arriving and the town
The location of the entry sign, welcoming visitors in four different languages, does little to indicate a town of over 17'000 inhabitants. You can just about make out a few brightly coloured houses (as is the recent trend in Slovenia), through the trees. All becomes clear in a few hundred metres, where the skyline, with hilltop church and houses sitting in the valley, becomes visible.
The old centre is easy to find, a right turn from the main road, where you'll see the central church. Meander around the narrow streets and ride up to its upper extremities for panoramic views of the town.
Originally an important communication way-point in Roman times, it flourished as a market town up until the 18th Century, since when it has become a less economically important satellite town of Ljubljana.
Ivan Cankar's birthplace
Na Klancu 1
Vrhnika was the home-town of the aforementioned and significant Slovenian writer. The memorial house of Cankar is a reconstruction of the old thatched cottage that once stood at the same location in the heart of the old town. 18th Century peasant living conditions have been recreated, where his original prints, photographs of himself, relatives and friends, self portraits and other artifacts are on display. Postcards, small books and other memorabilia can be bought, none of which are of the cheap, tacky variety.
OPEN: Tues-Fri: 09:00-13:00
Sat, Sun and holidays: 14:00-18:00
Around Vehnika: Star Maln
This nature reserve offers a lot of activities in the hills behind Vrhnika: bike tracks, hiking trails, watchtower for great views, picnic tables, camping and a natural swimming pool (like a small lake). After the inevitable exertions in the picturesque wooded hills, there's a cottage, guest-house and restaurant of the same name, offering local hearty fayre. To get there, continue in the same direction as from Ljubljana, then branch off to the right of the main road and keep going. Ask a friendly local if you're not sure.
Where to eat and stay
Bajc Gostišče - Sinja Gorica 12 - (+386) 17 55 34 77
This roadside guest-house is the perfect - and one of only a few places to rest your head after a good meal and extend your trip by a day. Looking after both the appetite and night-time needs of visitors - there's a newly renovated restaurant (2008) which remains somewhat traditional; plenty of pine is still to be found around the place - and comfortable, very clean rooms. All the delights of a good Slovenian gostilna are present downstairs: a large range of wine, menu of meaty dishes and also pasta, with an alpine soundtrack to match. Good everyday hospitality about 1km out of Vrhnika, back towards Ljubljana.