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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps SOFIA October-December 2008 Sofia districts What’s on? No 12 www.inyourpocket.com Learn more about them Complete events listings Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Sofia In Your Pocket Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving in Sofia Touching down 5 6 The Basics Essential reading for those not sure where they are History How the past has shaped the present Introducing Sofia Mayor of Sofia 8 9 Keeping in touch Let your Mum know how you are Dining & Nightlife 10 13 Restaurants 24 Where to wine and dine Cafés 34 Feed the addiction Nightlife 36 Enough to keep any pub crawlers on their hands and knees Culture & Events The Bulgarian symbol 60 years of National Art Gallery Where to stay 17 Places to recharge the batteries and catch up on your beauty sleep What to see Essential Sofia Sofia districts - Lyulin Out of town - Svoge Mount Vitosha City for children 47 Getting around Making sense of transport 56 Directory Shopping Go on a spree Health & Lifestyle Prevention is better than cure Sports Get this six-pack Business Oligarchs anonymous 60 64 66 67 Maps & Index Street index Index City map City centre map Bulgaria map 70 70 71 72 74 October - December 2008 4 foreWord After that long hot summer, we’re treated to the wonderful Sofia autumn with its gorgeous reds and yellows. Especially lovely is a walk through one of Sofia’s parks enjoying a delicious coffee whilst savouring the rugged beauty of the city’s open spaces. Or check out the jazz trio behind the Grand Hotel, they’re there most days and add a certain something to lunch by the fountain or just watching the people go by. One of the best ways to enjoy the wonderful autumn sunshine is to take a walk around South Park, Sofia’s answer to Central Park in New York. However, South Park is a beautiful encapsulation of Bulgaria at its finest. One minute it’s groomed lawns and flowers and the next it looks more like Jurasic Park. There are fairground attractions, foodstalls and the like to keep you suitably rehydrated for the hike. South Park is huge and is one of the best ways to get away from it all in Sofia. It’s another one of those perfect times of year for a trip up Vitosha mountain and see it in all its autumnal glory. Enjoy a final tour of this majestic mountain before the coming of the winter snows. And while you’re there, make sure to visit the springs in Knyazhevo. For the more adventurous amongst you there is paragliding to be experienced and 10 peaks over 2000 metres to be climbed. All in all, a day in the Vitosha National Park is a brilliant way to spend a day here in Sofia. On the other hand you might want to check out what’s happening in the suburbs, with the boys in the ‘hood. The suburbs should be experienced to see real daily life in Sofia. They’re a throwback to the socialist era which are gradually clawing their way into more modern times without losing their identity completely. There’s plenty happening over the next couple of months with the visits of some top national and international stars to Sofia so check out who’s playing where for that perfect evening. We’ve got David Sanborn in late October, Roisin Murphy of Moloko will be here in early November. Autumn is a wonderful time to learn and practice some of the traditions that go with the local fire water, Rakia. A sip of this excellent spirit is enough to warm the heart of the coldest of men. So, after an afternoon stroll through some park or round the mountain, what better way to wrap everything up than with one of Bulgaria’s greatest treasures. Be sure to try the quality fruit Rakias, they’re gorgeous. At great expense to our livers, we have conducted an extensive search of Sofia’s bars and nightlife to bring you the most up to date reviews of the latest joints to open in town. When you know where you’re going, you can plan an excellent evening out in Sofia, just check out our reviews on page 36. Editorial E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Editor-in-chief Steven MacAulay Assistant Editor Vesela Lyudskanova, Mitko Nikolov Research Mitko Nikolov, Rumiana Benova, Vesela Lyudskanova Layout & Design Krassimir Apostolov Photos Nikola Apostolov, Petya Racheva, Veronica de Boer Cover Nikola Apostolov Europe In Your Pocket With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email:editor@inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Discover Bulgaria Ltd. – Bulgaria In Your Pocket 2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reser ved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76. Sofia In Your Pocket Mladost 4, bl. 473, vh. 2-3, pristroika, parter (opposite the Business Park) 1715 Sofia, Bulgaria tel.: + 359 2 881 01 02 fax: + 359 2 881 53 32 sofia@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1312-742X © Discover Bulgaria Ltd. Printed by Infopress Group Bulgaria Published 4 times per year 15 000 copies Sales & Circulation Publisher Discover Bulgaria Ltd. General Manager Veronica de Boer Marketing Manager and PR Petya Racheva Sales & Circulation Vesela Lyudskanova Available from Airports – Burgas, Varna, Plovdiv and Sofia, airline companies, renta-cars, hotels, bars, restaurants, business centres, shopping malls, foreign embassies and international forums. To order your copy online visit www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Sofia In Your Pocket arriVing in sofia Relax. There seem to be more signs, written in English language on major roads, and there are more and more Bulgarians, who feel confident to talk “English”. After all, they have been watching American subbed movies for years, and even some gas-pumping people have university degrees. The harder it is to park, the more you get stuck in traffic jams then the closer you are to the city center. 5 Street smarts Street Square Boulevard Highway Bridge Улица (ул.) Площад (пл.) Булевард (бул.) Магистрала Мост Ulitsa (ul.) Ploshtad (pl.) Boulevard (bul.) Magistrala Most By plane Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia), 10km east of the city centre, is divided into two terminals - the ageing Terminal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. The arrivals halls at both terminals boast cafés, car-hire counters, ATMs and exchange bureaux (although beware that rates here are not particularly generous, so it’s best to only change enough cash for immediate survival). Getting to town: avoid the taxi touts thronging the arrivals halls and head instead for the official ranks of yellow taxis parked outside. The fare into town shouldn’t cost more than 10Lv (E5). Alternatively you can catch the bus - No 84 from Terminal 1 or No 284 from Terminal 2. Both run to Orlov Most (C-5) on the eastern fringes of the city centre, departing roughly every 10-15 minutes between 05:00 and 23:00. Tickets cost 0.70Lv from the kiosks beside the bus stop, or 0.80Lv from the driver. You also have to buy a separate ticket for each bulky piece of luggage, otherwise you run the risk of being fined by ticket inspectors. (2Lv for 24hrs), and a left-luggage office (garderob) just off the eastern side of the main ticket hall (open 06:00 - 23:00; 2Lv per item). Cheapest way of getting to town is to hop on tram No 1 or 7 (buy ticket from kiosks or from the driver - 1 Lv) from opposite the station forecourt - head for the subterranean underpass to find the platform. Either of these will take you to pl. Sveta Nedelya, well placed for central Sofia’s amenities - get off when you see the Sheraton Hotel looming up on your left. The taxi drivers hovering outside the station are an unpredictable bunch; check that their meters are switched on or agree a flat fare before setting off; otherwise walk 200 metres east to the bus station (see below) where the taxi firms are more reputable. By bus Most international and domestic buses arrive at the spanking new Central Bus Station (Tsentralna Avtogara), 200m east of the Central Railway Station. Compared to other points of arrival the bus station is comfortingly civilized, with clean toilets, plenty of shops and cafés, a pharmacy and an ATM. There’s a 24-hour left-luggage office (1-3Lv depending on size of bag) in the main ticket hall. To get into the centre of town from here, either stroll south down bul. Mariya Luiza (15-20 min), or walk 200m west to pick up tram No 1 or 7 outside the train station (see above). There’s a taxi booking office just beside the main exit. Some international buses arrive at the Trafik-Market terminal mid-way between the main train and bus stations. As this is nothing more than a parking lot bordered by ticket offices and café kiosks, you’ll have to walk to the main stations on either side to find any facilities. By train Sofia’s Central Station (Tsentralna gara), open 05:00 - 24:00, is an unwelcoming concrete hangar 20-minute walk nor th of the city centre. Facilities include left-luggage, money exchange kiosks, ATMs, bars and fast-food outlets. Beware of pickpockets who hang around the station and the adjoining underpass. There are coin-operated left-luggage lockers in the basement By car Regardless of you point of entry, you deserve plaudits for being so brave. The first thing you need to do is reduce your speed to avoid the many police checks on incoming roads. Follow the lead of other cars (not the ones who overtake and temporarily drive on the wrong side of the road) and get patiently in line should you encounter a traffic jam, which are unfortunately becoming more and more frequent, especially during rush hour. Parking can be difficult to find in the city, and you should be aware that the blue zones cost 1Lv per hour. Failure to pay can lead to clamping and your car being towed away after 2 hours. Parking vouchers are sold on the spot by parking attendants or you can just send as SMS to 1302 with your registration number (for Bulgarian and transit license plate numbers), and you will be notified when the time is up, giving you the chance to pay for the next hour.  The Sofia telephone code is: 02 October - December 2008 6 BasiCs Alcohol The archetypal national tipple is rakiya or brandy, which usually comes as either grozdova rakiya (grape brandy) or slivova (plum). It’s usually served up in 50g or 100g shots and is consumed alongside salad or some other form of nibble – wait-staff will consider you peculiar if you don’t order at least something to snack on while you’re slugging down spirits. As far as beer is concerned, Bulgaria produces several palatable if unexciting lagers – Zagorka, Shumensko and Kamenitsa are the most reliable of the big brands. Much more impressive are the dry red wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon from Svishtov and Oryahovitsa, Merlot from Stambolovo, Gumza from Novo Selo, Mavrud from Asenovgrad, and Melnik from the village of same name. The Chardonnays and Traminers from Veliki Preslav are among the best of the whites. Key phrases The following is a list of some of the most common words and phrases a person is likely to need. Hello Goodbye Please You’re welcome Thank you Excuse me Yes / No Cheers I don’t understand I don’t know Do you speak English? What’s up? Good morning! Good afternoon / evening! Good night! Have you got…? Where can I buy…? How many / how much? Good / bad Expensive / cheap New / old Hot / cold Forgive me! You are a very pretty girl Zdravei Dovizhdane Molya Pak zapoviadaite Blagodarya Izvinete Da / Ne Nazdrave Ne razbiram Ne znam Govorite li angliiski? Kakvo stava? Dobro utro! Dobur den / vecher! Leka nosht! Imate li…? Kude moga da kupya…? Kolko / Kolko struva? Dobro / losho Skupo / evtino Novo / staro Toplo / studeno Prostete mi! Vie ste mnogo krasivo momiche You are a very attractive man Vie ste mnogo privlekatelen mazh May I have the bill? Mozhe li smetkata? No offence, but it’s too Ne se obizhdayte, no expensive for me e tvarde skapo za men Days of week Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 100 1000 Ponedelnik Vtornik Sryada Chetvurtak Petuk Subota Nedelya edno dve tri chetiri pet shest sedem osem devet deset sto hilyada Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Bulgaria. You’re not allowed to export antiques, artworks or coins of numismatic value unless you have a permit issued by the Ministry of Culture. Due to fears about child trafficking, travellers with small children may be asked for documentary evidence of their parental relationship before being allowed to leave the country. Electricity Bulgaria runs on a 220 volt electricity supply (so some visitors will need to bring a transformer). Standard continental two-prong plugs are used, so others will need to furnish themselves with an adaptor if they want to use their hairdryer/phone/ charger/laptop. Smoking Cafès, bars and restaurants are required by law to provide an area for non-smokers. In practice however this will probably consist of one or two tables surrounded on all sides by nicotine addicts happily puffing away. Visas Citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the USA can stay in the country visa-free for 90 days. Nationals of other countries should contact the Bulgarian embassies or consulates in their home countries about visa arrangements. Note that visas cannot be obtained at the border. If you wish to extend your stay beyond the 90-day period you should apply for a residence permit from the Immigration Office, bul. Maria Luiza 48, tel. 982 37 64. Open 09:00 – 17:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Roads & Traffic police Most Bulgarians turn into psychopaths as soon as they get behind the wheel of a car, although given the state of the road network one can hardly blame them. Cow-sized potholes, suicidal pedestrians and drunken cyclists riding on the wrong side of the road are just some of the things to look out for – and with hazards like these you need to swerve around like a stunt driver in order to stay in one piece. Streets in central Sofia can be clogged with traffic. Road signage is haphazard and street names are almost exclusively in Cyrillic, so you need to research your route on a map before you set off. Finding a place to park can be a nightmare. A lot socalled blue-zone parking areas are run by private companies. Parking vouchers (1Lv/hour) are sold on the spot by parking attendants. In order to drive on Bulgarian roads outside Sofia you’ll need to purchase a vignette which must be displayed in the windscreen. You can get these from border crossings, all post offices and OMV and Shell gas stations. For a car or SUV vignettes cost 10Lv for one week, 25Lv for one month, and 67Lv for a year. Speed limits are 120km/hr on main highways, 90km/hr on minor roads and 50km/hr in urban areas. Talking on a mobile phone while driving is strictly forbidden, as is driving under the influence of more than 0.5/1000 of Sofia In Your Pocket BasiCs Tourist information The National Tourist Information Centre B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 1, tel. 933 58 45, fax 989 69 39, info@ bulgariatravel.org, www.bulgariatravel.org. The Tourist Information Centre has undergone a far-reaching facelift in the past few months, and now constitutes an inviting and altogether quite chic info-boutique, equipped with designer bar-stools for tourists to perch on while helpful staff distribute free maps or search their databases for the answers to all sorts of queries. They aren’t authorized to make hotel reservations on tourists’ behalf, but they do distribute well-informed locally-published guides like this one. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20V (entrance from ul. Lavele), tel. 980 51 02, fax 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg. com. The staff at this private travel agency specializing in individual and alternative holidays are a mine of invaluable information - be aware however that they charge a 5Lv consultancy fee (which is deducted from the cost of any arrangements you book through them). QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sat, Sun. 7 The Cyrillic Alphabet a b v g d e zh z i y k l m n o p r s t u f h ts ch sh sht a softens ’o’ yu ya as in as in as in as in as in as in as ’s’ in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in as in arm bath van go dog let measure zoo bit yoke keep like map not opera pen run sit tap rule fan hand cuts church short smashed but yoga you yard National holidays January 1: New Year’s Day (Nova godina) March 3: Liberation Day (Liberation from the Ottoman rule) (Denyat na osvobozhdenieto) April 27: Easter (Velikden) May 1: Labour Day (Denyat na truda) May 6: St. George’s Day (Gergyovden; Day of the Bulgarian Army) May 24: St. St. Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril i Metodi; Day of the Cyrillic Alphabet and Bulgarian Education and Culture) September 6: Unification Day (Saedinenieto; marking the unification of Bulgaria and Eastern Rumelia in 1885) September 22: Independence Day (Denyat na nezavisimostta) December 24,25,26: Christmas (Koleda) Basic data Territory: Bulgaria takes up 110, 550 km2 of land. It shares borders with Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia and Romania. The country is bordered to the east by a 354km-long stretch of Black Sea coastline. Rivers: The main rivers in the country are Danube, Maritsa, Mesta, Strouma, Iskar, Yantra. There are more than 600 warm and cold mineral springs. Highest Point: Musala (2925m), south of Sofia in the Rila mountains. Population of Bulgaria: 7,385,367 (July 2006 est.) Population of Sofia: 1,377,531 (July 2006 est.) Local time: Bulgaria is part of the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT +2); when it is noon in Sofia it is 11:00 in Berlin, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York City. Religion: Traditional religion in the Republic of Bulgaria is Eastern Orthodox Christianity. Orthodox 85%, Muslim 8%, others 7%. Market values How do costs compare to back home? Here is handy list of local prices to give you an idea. Leva Euro Loaf of white bread 1.00 0.50 Snickers bar 0.70 0.35 Litre of vodka 40.00 20.00 Litre of local vodka 7.00 3.50 Bottle of local beer (½ litre) 1.00 0.50 20 Marlboros 3.40 1.70 Public transport ticket 1.00 0.50 Cinema ticket 8.00 4.00 Exchange rates (as of October 2008): US$1 – 1.33Lv, €1 – 1.95Lv, £1 – 2.47Lv alcohol. Foreigners are well advised to obey the rules of the road even if they see locals behaving otherwise: the police rarely speak English and are unlikely to show any lenience. Police checks on major highways are common, especially when entering or leaving Sofia at the weekend. Policeman are allowed to charge on-the-spot fines up to 50 Lv. Important phone numbers Fire: 160 Ambulance: 150 Police: 166 Road assistance: 146 Anti-corruption unit: 982 22 22, www.nocorr.mvr.bg Telephone information: 11800 Breakdown Service: 91146 or 146 if you’re calling from a Bulgarian mobile October - December 2008 8 history History Antiquity In antiquity, Bulgaria, the land of Orpheus and Spartacus, belongs to the Kingdom of Macedonia. 4th century BC The territory of contemporary Bulgaria is conquered by the Macedonians, lead by Philip II and his son Alexander the Great. During the first century AD these lands become Roman provinces. 632 The History of Bulgaria as a separate country begins with the establishment of Old Great Bulgaria (also known as Onoguria). 681 First Bulgarian Kingdom is established by Khan Asparuh. 865 Bulgaria becomes a Christian country. Tsar Boris I accepts Orthodox Christianity. 9th-10th centuries “The Golden Age” period under the rule of Tsar Simeon the Great. The Slavic writing is officially accepted throughout the country. Literature schools, imposing temples and monasteries are built. Bulgaria has an outlet on three seas - the Black sea, Aegean Sea and the Adriatic. The capital is moved to Veliki Preslav, which during that period could be compared with the beauty and glory of Constantinople. 1018 Bulgaria falls under Byzantine rule until 1185. 1185 The Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185-1396) is founded after two brothers, Asen and Peter. The capital city of the new kingdom becomes Veliko Turnovo. 12th-13th centuries Under the rule of the Tsar Kaloyan (11971207) and Tsar Ivan Asen II (1218-1241), Bulgaria becomes a dominant power in the Balkans. 1393 The Ottomans occupy the Bulgarian capital Veliko Turnovo after a three-month siege. 1396 The Kingdom of Vidin is occupied, bringing the Second Bulgarian Empire and Bulgarian independence to an end. 14th-18th centuries By the end of the 14th century, the Turks control all of Bulgaria. Ottoman rule continues for five centuries. 18th century The Age of the Bulgarian National Revival begins. In spite of the resistance of the central Turkish authorities and the Greek clergy (the so-called phanariots), the struggle for an independent church, the publication of books and, later on, of periodicals in the Bulgarian language, the establishment of lay Bulgarian schools and the official recognition of the language and culture, become real steps to the revival of the nation. One important landmark was the writing of the Slav-Bulgarian History (1762) by monk Paissi of Hilendar. 1876 Bulgarian revolutionaries launch the April Uprising at Koprivshtitsa. The Turks suppress it with unprecedented brutality. About 15,000 Bulgarians are massacred at Plovdiv and 58 villages destroyed. Outraged European allies come to Bulgaria’s rescue in the late 1870s. Russia, the chief saviour, suffers 200,000 casualties in the conflict. 1877-1878 The Russian-Turkish war leads to the liberation of Bulgaria from the Ottoman Empire. March 1878 The Treaty of San Stefano provides for an independent Bulgarian state, which spans the geographical regions of Moesia, Thrace and Macedonia. July 1878 The Treaty of Berlin, under the supervision of Otto von Bismarck of Germany and Benjamin Disraeli of Britain, splits Bulgaria into three parts: an independent Principality of Bulgaria based in Sofia, the autonomous Ottoman province of Eastern Roumelia; and Macedonia, which remains under direct Ottoman rule. April 1879 The Turnovo Constitution is passed by the First Grand National Assembly. June 1879 Alexander Battenberg becomes prince of Bulgaria, and Sofia becomes the capital of the new Bulgarian state. September 1885 Eastern Rumelia declares union with Bulgaria. 1887 A coup replaces Alexander Battenberg with Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. Recent History In June 2001, the Bulgarian monarchy makes an unprecedented comeback when former king Simeon II is elected prime minister. Unable to ease economics hardships for the majority, however, he too sees his popularity plummet after a few months in power. In the same election, the country’s Turkish minority is represented in the government for the first time, and the president encourages Bulgarians to be more tolerant of TurkishBulgarians. Progress continues under President Georgi Parvanov, albeit slower than most hope. Membership of NATO is granted in 2004, and entry into the European Union follows in 2007. July 27, 2005 the Bulgarian Parliament chose Sergey Stanishev of the Bulgarian Socialist Party as the new Prime Minister in a coalition government with the Movement for Rights and Freedoms. August 15, 2005 the BSP and National Movement Simeon II formed a stable government, along with the Movement for Rights and Freedoms. This grand coalition comprises the three largest parties. This coalition has a large majority in parliament with 169 of the 240 deputies. September 1908 Ferdinand upgrades Bulgaria from principality to kingdom and declares himself Tsar. 1912-1913 The Nationalist Prime Minister, Ivan Geshov, forms an alliance with Greece and Serbia to attack the Ottomans and to drive them out of Macedonia and Thrace. The Balkan Wars are sparking. The alliance soon fall out, with Greeks and Serbs expelling Bulgarian forces from Macedonia, and then dividing up the spoils. 1915-1918 Bulgaria joins the German side in World War I. A Serb-French-British offensive in Macedonia causes Bulgaria’s collapse. Ferdinand abdicates in favour of son Boris III. 1919 Elections are won by the Peasant party of Aleksandar Stamboliyski promising widespread social change. 1923-1934 Democratically elected governments are toppled via coups that bring authoritarian regimes to power. 1941 Bulgaria enters World War II on the side of the Rome-Berlin-Tokyo Axis. The country is the only ally of Hitler’s Germany which did not allow the killing of its Jewish citizens. It was thanks to king Boris III and to the Bulgarian governments that no hostilities are waged in the country’s territory. 1944 After World War II, as a result of the Yalta agreements between the Great Powers, Bulgaria ends up in the field of influence of the Soviet Union. 1953-1989 Years of the communist rule of Todor Zhivkov who headed both the party and the state. 10 November 1989 Under pressure from domestic and international circumstances Todor Zhivkov is forced to resign. Bulgaria once again takes the road of democratic development. 7 December 1989 The Union of Democratic Forces (SDS) is formed as a unification of 13 opposition organisations. June 1990 First free parliamentary elections. 12 July 1991 A new democratic Constitution is passed. 13 October 1991 First free local authorities elections. 1992 First free presidential elections. Zhelyu Zhelev is elected head of state. 3 November 1996 Petar Stoyanov, proposed by the SDS, is elected with President of the Republic of Bulgaria with a landslide majority. 19 April 1997 The Parliamentary elections are won by the Democratic Forces United. A government is formed headed by Ivan Kostov as Prime-Minister. Bulgaria starts on the road of genuine democratic reforms. Sofia In Your Pocket introduCing sofia The history of Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital and largest city, spans thousands of years from antiquity to modern times. Through¬out its existence, the city has always been a com¬mercial, industrial, cultural and economic centre of the Balkans region. Sofia has always been well known for its mineral resources, neighbouring mountains and historical sights. 9 Mayor of Sofia Mr. Boyko Borissov next to be the supreme ruler of Sofia he also is the unofficial leader of the GERB party “Citizens for European Development of Bulgaria”. A nononsense figure hardly ever spotted with necktie. He is today without doubt the most popular person in Bulgarian politics. We owe him special thanks for the speedy reconstruction of the over trafficked Sofia ring road, soon to be THE place where local Porsche and Ferrari owners will put their peddle to the meddle if no firm speed control measures are built-in. Antiquity Sofia is originally a Thracian settlement called Serdica, named after the Thracian tribe Serdi that had populated it. 4th century BC For a short period the city is possessed by Philip of Macedonia and his son Alexander the Great. 29 AD Sofia is conquered by the Romans and renamed Ulpia Serdica. It becomes a municipium, or centre of an administrative region, during the reign of Emperor Trayan (98-117). 447 The city is destroyed by the Huns, but is rebuilt by Byzantine Emperor Justinian and renamed T riaditsa. Although also often destroyed by the Slavs, the town remains under Byzantine dominion until 809. Ottoman rule 1382 Sofia is conquered by the Ottoman sultan Empire Murad I. Many Ottoman buildings emerge during the period. Very few of them have survived, including only a single mosque, Banya Bashi. The Ottoman rule saw a major demographic growth, as the city grew from a total population of 6,000 (1620s) through 55,000 (middle 17th century) to 70-80,000 (18 th century data from foreign travellers, albeit possibly exaggerated). 16th century Sofia is a thriving trade centre inhabited by Turks, Bulgarians, Romaniote, Ashkenazi, and Sephardic Jews, Armenians, Greeks and Ragusan merchants. During the next century the city’s population included even Albanians and Persians. 17th century The Vatican establishes the Bishopric of Sofia for Ottoman subjects belonging to the Catholic millet in Rumelia, which existed until 1715 when most Catholics had emigrated to Habsburg or Tsarist territories. 1878 Sofia is liberated by Russian forces in 1878, during the Russian-Turkish War (1877-1878) 1879 The city becomes the capital of the autonomous Principality of Bulgaria, which becomes Kingdom of Bulgaria in 1908. 1900 The City Council approves the emblem of Sofia and the motto “It Grows but Does not Age”. 1925 The gravest act of terrorism in Bulgarian history, the St Nedelya Church assault, is carried out by the Bulgarian Communist Party, claiming the lives of 150 and injuring another 500. Middle Ages 809 Sofia becomes part of the First Bulgarian Kingdom during the reign of Khan Krum. 1018 The city again falls to the Byzantine Empire. 12th-14th centuries Sofia is a thriving centre of trade and crafts. It is renamed Sofia (meaning “wisdom” in Greek) in 1376 after the Church of St Sophia. However, it is called both “Sofia” and “Sredets” until the 16th century, when the new name gradually replaced the old one. World War II Sofia is bombed by Allied aircraft in late 1943 and early 1944, as well as later occupied by the Soviet Union. Bulgaria’s regime, which has allied the countr y wi th Nazi Germany, is overthrown and Sofia becomes capital of the Communist-ruled People’s Republic of Bulgaria (1944–1989). Totalitarian regime (9 September 1944-10 November 1989) During the years of communism, Sofia becomes the nation’s major economic, academic and cultural centre. From its years of socialist growth, however, the capital inherited a great deal of problems, which are at present the priorities of the democratically - elected council of Sofia. 1992 In honour of the celebration of St. Sofia the Martyr, the Government chose September 17th as the Day of Sofia. The flag of Sofia Municipality is also consecrated on that day. The Day of Sofia is also celebrated like the Day of saints Vyara, Nadezhda and Lyubov. According to non official information nowadays Sofia has a population about 3 million people. Most of them come to the capital for work and business opportunities. October - December 2008 10 Keeping in touCh Postal rates Postcards Letters Bulgaria 0.35 Lv 0.55 Lv Europe 1.00 Lv 1.00 Lv USA & Others 1.40 Lv 1.40 Lv Couriers City Express C-3, ul. Gladston 58, tel. 912 12, www. city-express.com. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. DHL G-9, ul. Prodan Tarakchiev 10, tel. 070 017 700., sofcustcare@dhl.com, www.dhl.bg. QOpen 09:00 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Direct F-7, ul. Rayna Knyaginya 7, tel. 928 98 98, direct@direct.bg, www.direct.bg. QOpen 09:00 17:30. Flying Cargo Bulgaria Ltd. (FedEx) G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 10, tel. 080 011 000, fax 973 13 66, www. flyingcargo-bg.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. In Time /UPS/ G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 41, tel. 960 99, fax 960 98 99, intime@intime.bg, w w w. intime.bg. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Speedy D-3, bul. Cherni vrah 67, tel. 0 7001 7001, www.speedy.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Tip Top F-7, bul. Lomsko shose 35, tel. 936 99 99, fax 936 98 10, tiptop@courier.bg, www.courier.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT G-9, ul. Nedelcho Bonchev 35, tel. 070 011 666, fax 933 91 44, tnt.sales.bg@tnt.com, www.tnt.com/ country/bg_bg.html. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Internet cafes garibaldicafe.net, www.garibaldicafe.net. Eighteen computers plus scanning, printing and low-rate international phone calls. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr. Matritsata C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 70, www.ma3x.net. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr. Site C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 986 08 96, info@siteout. net, www.siteout.net. Quiet, comfortable spot in a courtyard just off the street. Coffee and other drinks. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Price: 2Lv/hr. Virtus C-2, ul. Han Asparuh 53, www.virtus.hit.bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 2Lv/hr. Garibaldi C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 989 42 85, info@ Bulgarian main city codes 44 68 Sliven Blagoevgrad 73 Lovech 2 Burgas 56 Pazardzhik 34 Sofia 76 Stara Zagora 42 Dobrich 58 Pernik 52 64 Varna Gabrovo 66 Pleven 32 V. Tarnovo 62 Haskovo 38 Plovdiv 94 82 Vidin Yambol 46 Ruse 92 86 Vratsa Kyustendil 78 Silistra The above codes should be prefixed with 0 if dialing from inside Bulgaria. ISPs info@bitex.com, www.bitex.com. Dial-up services, wireless Internet, leased lines, hosting, web design. BOL.BG C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 24, tel. 400 80 00, fax 989 40 94, office@bol.bg, www.bol.bg. LAN and cable Internet, free dial-up, web services. Digital Systems B-3, ul. Triaditsa 4, tel. 981 13 01, fax 980 68 89, office-sofia@digsys.bg, www.digsys.bg. Wireless network, cable internet, virtual private networks, IP telephony, web services. Megalan Network H-8, ul. Yordan Yosifov 4 business cenre Mania fl. 1, tel. 0800 18 400/0800 20 400, info@ megalan.bg, www.megalan.bg. International country codes Austria Belgium Bulgaria Croatia Czech Rep. Denmark Finland France Germany Greece 43 32 359 385 420 45 358 33 49 30 Hungary 36 Ireland 353 Israel 972 Italy 39 Japan 61 Macedonia 389 Netherlands 31 Norway 47 Poland 48 Portugal 351 Romania 40 Russia 7 Serbia 381 Slovenia 386 Spain 34 Sweden 46 Switzerland 41 Turkey 90 UK 44 USA/Canada 1 Bitex D-2, ul. William Gladstone 39, tel. 980 02 38, The above codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialing from inside Bulgaria. Sofia In Your Pocket Keeping in touCh Free Wi-Fi zones Sofia may not be the best place in the world, in terms of communication, but still the days of carrier pigeons are long gone. There are several free Wi-Fi zones in town, just give an occasional eye around for muggers, who will be attracted by the glowing light of your precious belongings. These Zones are: The park ”Gen. Vladimir Zaimov”, B-5 The park “Doktorskata Gradinka”, B-5 Central Bus Station, F-8 Shopping Center “Tsentralni hali”, A-2 NDK “Mostat na vlyubenite” (Lover’s Bridge), D-2 11 surf@mobikom.com, www.mobikom.com. Agents for Mobisurf - prepaid Internet access for home users and small business. Spectrum Net G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 36, tel. 489 06 00, info@spnet.net, www.spnet.net. All kinds of Internet services. Mobikom H-8, ul. Yerusalim 1, tel. 974 38 04, mobi- Mobile phones Globul Mladost-4, Business Park, building 4, tel. 942 80 00, fax 942 80 10, CustomerCare@globul.bg, www.globul.bg. One of the main mobile operators. You can buy their b-connect pre-paid cards. For information tel. 089 123. MTel ul. Kukush 1, tel. 0888 088 088, fax 0888 500 885, pr@mobiltel.bg, www.mtel.bg. Another major mobile operator. They sell prepaid cards for the Prima network, available at most kiosks and shops. Vivatel C-1, bul. Totleben 8, tel. 087 123, www. vivatel.bg. Bulgaria’s third mobile phone operator, started in 2005. Phone rental service@intrafonica.com, www.intrafonica.com. Shortto mid-term GSM cell phone rentals, local SIM cards and Mobile Internet services delivered via GPRS, thus avoiding inflated roaming rates and incoming call charges. Rental packages are delivered either to your hotel or to alternative address of your choice. Orders online available. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Intrafonica Bulgaria , tel./fax 927 50 01, customer. Post - 13:00. Central Post Office B-3, ul. Gurko 6, tel. 980 12 25, www.bgpost.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 T Post H-8, Mladost 4, Business Park Sofia, tel. 489 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 81 60, www.tpost-bg.com. First Bulgarian private post. Public telephones BTC Centre B-3, ul. Gurko 4. You can make international calls from the metered cabins and pay the cashier on the way out. Also Internet access available at a price of 0,80 Lv/hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Planetphone B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 18B, tel. 980 28 75, planetphone@planetphone.net, www.planetphone. net. Cheap international calls. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. October - December 2008 12 Culture & eVents In the autumn, several concerts will soothe your ears and soul, or bring out the savage in you with rockin’ sounds. Classical pianists and heavy metal divas, flamenco guitars, jazz legends and cult club bands, Sofia has it all… The Bulgarian symbol Cyrillic alphabet, or Kirilitsa is voted as the second Bulgarian symbol after the Madarski konnik bas-relief. More than a hundred thousand Bulgarians voted in this national campaign to choose the symbols, which will represent Bulgaria abroad and will also be moulded on the euro coins. The Latin and the Cyrillic alphabets share some letters and a common origin, but have a different evolution as graphic systems. Cyrillic letters, also called “azbuka” appear in written documents in the 10th century and are named after the younger of the two Saint brothers Kiril and Metodiy, who created the Glagolitic alphabet in the 9th century. Their disciple Saint Kliment Ohridski (who gave the name of the biggest National university in Sofia) is credited as the creator of this writing system, although its actual origin is still an object of study and hypotheses. The Bulgarian Cyrillic alphabet has 30 letters and is recognized as the third official alphabet of the European Union. Its versions are used by the southern and eastern Slavic people, Mongolians and in some of the former Russian republics. Art galleries Art Gallery Paris B-4, ul. Parizh 8, tel. 980 80 93, info@ gallery-paris.com, www.gallery-paris.com. Charming little gallery representing younger-generation Bulgarian artists, especially those working in expressive, figurative styles. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Galeria Akademia B-4, ul. Shipka 1, tel. 987 81 77. Prestige group shows in the gallery of the Bulgarian Academy of Fine Arts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939 01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/sofia. Challenging and off-beat contemporary art shows, in the German cultural centre. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GreenCat gallery C-5, ul. Varbiza 6, tel. 0886 154 526, n.maneva@greencatgallery.com, www.greencatgallery.com. Krug + B-4, ul. Budapeshta 5, tel. 988 25 79. Cuttingedge work in one of Sofia’s coolest spaces. QOpen 10:00 Lessedra D-3, ul. Milin kamak 25, tel. 865 04 28, - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. georgi@lessedra.com, www.lessedra.com. Dealership with contemporary Bulgarian and international art on show. Specializes in prints and graphics, with a good selection of items for sale. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. work by leading Bulgarian painters and sculptors, in a beautiful split-level space. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Maksim B-2, ul. Lom 11, tel. 988 10 62. Contemporary rakursi.com, www.rakursi.com. Small private gallery specializing in contemporary Bulgarian art, representing sizeable stable of established and emerging artists. Extensive collection of paintings, graphics, photographs and sculptures at all prices. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Rakursi C-3, ul. Han Krum 4A, tel. 981 26 17, gallery@ Sofia City Art Gallery B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 987 21 81, sghg2@bgnet.bg, www.sghg.cult.bg. The Sofia City Art Gallery possesses some of the richest collections of Bulgarian art: 3500 paintings, 800 statues, 2800 graphics and drawings. The Contemporary Art and Photography department was founded in 2004. With 1100 square meters of exposition space divided into four compartments the Gallery arranges some 30 exhibitions every year. Most of the exhibitions display works from the Gallery’s collections. In addition visiting one-man, group and general exhibitions of Bulgarian and foreign artists are arranged. Studies on present-day art and work with young artists became a special focus of the Gallery’s policy in recent years. Sofia City Art Gallery is a museum with long-standing traditions. Its role is to present the facts of Bulgarian cultural history in an analytical and modern way and to actively intervene in art developments by original and impressive projects. We recommend you to visit also the Vaska Emanuilova Gallery, branch of the Sofia City Art Gallery B-5 bul. Yanko Sakuzov 15, tel. 944 11 75, www.veg.cult.bg. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tea E-2, ul. Dimitar Hadzhikotsev 10, tel. 865 84 26. Contemporary paintings for sale, and frequent one-off exhibitions by the more off-the-wall artists. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. The Red House (Chervenata kashta) C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov 15, tel. 988 81 88, info@redhouse-sofia.org, www.redhouse-sofia.org. An early twentieth-century mansion now serving as a cutting-edge cultural centre for Sofia’s arty set. There’s a meaty menu of exhibitions, small-scale concerts, video screenings and drama. QOpen 15:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sculpture park G-8, ul. Aleksandur Zhendov 2, tel. 948 20 36, culturalinstitute@mfa.government.bg, www.sic. mfa.government.bg. In the Sculpture park outside the Ministry of Foreign Affairs s are exhibited over 90 works created by Bulgarian sculptors from the 1930’s until the present days and other monuments. QOpen , Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Shipka 6 B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 846 71 13, fax 946 02 12, info@sbhart.com, www.sbhart.com. Located in the upper storeys of the Bulgarian Artists’ Union building, this hosts a wide variety of shows by artists from Bulgaria and beyond. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tucked away behind the National Theatre in the headquarters of a major bank, this gallery concentrates on big names from the contemporary Bulgarian art world. Expect the kind of head-scratching installations and conceptual works that are in short supply elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 19:00. Cinemas Arena Zapad F-7, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 64, tel. 920 99 99, w w w.kinoarena.com. Big gest of the multiplexes, with 15 screens, on-site pizzeria, ice cream parlour and more. Near the Vardar metro station. Another branch at H-8, Mladost-4, Business Park Sofia. Q (7-12Lv). PK Sibank Galeria B-3, ul. Slavyanska 2, tel. 939 92 80. Cinema City B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101, tel. 981 19 11, fax 981 57 77, marketing@cinemacity.bg, Sofia In Your Pocket Culture & eVents www.cinemacity.bg. State-of-the-art multiscreen in the Mall of Sofia shopping complex, surrounded by fast-food outlets and other places to spend your money. Also includes the Mtel Imax cinema, where you can sit back in your 3-D spectacles and have your brain scrambled by the twenty-four-metre-wide screen. Q (7-12Lv). P 13 Ticket offices National Palace of Culture D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 63 69. QOpen 8:00 – 19:00 Orange music store B-3, Orange Center, 2nd floor, ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 985 41 41, orangemusic@ netbg.com. Qopen 9:00 – 21:00 Ticketstream B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 981 38 59, www.ticketstream.bg. QOpen: 9:30 – 18:00 Cineplex D-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 964 30 07, www. cineplex.bg. Nine-screen cinema on the top floor of the City Center Sofia shopping mall. Not too far from the city centre, and with loads of eating and drinking opportunities in the mall itself. Q (6-12Lv). P Euro Cinema B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 17, tel. 980 41 61, fx_cin@hotmail.com. Well-chosen menu of classy European flicks and non-mainstream choices. Q (4-5Lv). House of Cinema (Dom na kinoto) A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 37, tel. 980 39 11. This is the place for the real movie buffs. If it won a prize at an obscure European festival, it will probably be shown here. Q (6-7 Lv). Music, opera and ballet 987 76 56. Home of the Bulgarian philharmonic, this is the top place in the country for symphonic concerts. QOpen . Closed Sat, Sun. Open 10:30-13:00, 15:00-18:00 Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria Hall (Zala Bulgaria) B-3, ul. Aksakov 1, tel. Kino Vlaykova C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen 11, tel. 944 39 23. An old-fashioned, single-screen cinema in the leafy Ivan Asen district, screening a mixture of art films and Hollywood flicks. The cinema’s bar also serves as local pub and snooker hall. Q (3-5Lv). Showing old movies and nothing else, this is a great place to sit back and enjoy a big-screen nostalgia-fest. Q (4-6 Lv). tel. 987 35 92, boris_chrisoff@abv. The house of the famous Bulgarian opera singer is an art centre housing a rich museum collection as well as a stage for young talents musicians, opera singers, artists, actors. A spacious concert hall is arranged with a gorgeous grand piano. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Music Centre Boris Hristov B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 43, Odeon C-1, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 989 24 69. National Musical Theatre B-5, ul. Panayot Volov 2, tel. 944 50 85, fax 944 13 42, operetta@otel.net, www.musictheatre.bg. Best known for operetta and musicals, but occasionally features dance performances too. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Tickets: tel. 943 19 79 October - December 2008 14 Culture & eVents National Opera and Ballet B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel. 987 13 66, fax 980 91 22, sfopera@geobiz.net, www.operasofia. bg. The jewel in Sofia’s cultural crown, featuring the best local artistes and guesting prima donnas from abroad. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00. Tickets: tel. 987 13 66 National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets na kulturata - NDK) D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 68 armiya) B-4, ul. Rakovski 98, tel. 987 23 03, tba@ art.bg, www.art.bg/tba. High quality classical and contemporary drama. Bulgarian Army Theatre (Teatar Bulgarska 30, fax 865 70 53, drumev@ndk.bg, www.ndk.bg. Mammoth-sized cultural centre with a 3800-seater main hall and numerous smaller concert spaces. Hosts all kinds of high-profile musical events. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Tickets: tel. 916 63 69 B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 5, tel. 811 92 19, fax 987 70 66, info@nationaltheatre.bg, www.nationaltheatre.bg. Sofia’s grandest thespians tread the boards. Ivan Vazov National Theatre (Naroden teatar) Theatres teatar) B-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 26, tel. 987 66 06, satirata@slovo.bg. Comedies both classical and modern. Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre (Satirichen 27, fax 943 39 35, sfumato@mbox.contact.bg, www. sfumato.info. On-the-edge experimental theatre from an internationally renowned company. Sfumato Theatre Workshop (Teatralna rabotilnitsa Sfumato) G-8, ul. Dimitar Grekov 2, tel. 944 01 Beyond the Canal (Malak gradski teatar “Zad kanala”) G-8, bul. Madrid 1, tel. 846 20 20, mgt@abv. bg, www.theatreoffthechannel.org. Studio theatre offering anything from small-scale contemporary productions to film projections and jazz gigs. Tears and Laughter (Salza i smyah) B-4, ul. Rakovski 127, tel. 987 58 95, fax 987 36 14, office@salzaismiah. com, www.salzaismiah.com. Quality, often challenging work from Sofia’s oldest drama company. Theatre 199 B-4, ul. Slavyanska 8, tel. 987 85 33, fax 988 53 19, theatre199@infotel.bg, www.theatre199. org. Top place for contemporary studio performances. Gets the name from its 199 seat National Opera and Ballet October 01-04.10 10:00,11:30 14-16.10 17.10 22-24.10 25.10 10:00 19:00 10:00 19:00 The Carnival of the Animals (Children education program) S. Prokofiev opera Cinderella M. Theodorakis ballet Zorba the Greek The Sleeping Lake (Children education program) Rossini opera IL Barbiere di Siviglia The sleeping Lake (Children education program) Celebration performance (100 years from the birth of Marin Goleminov) Léo Delibes opera Lakmé M. Theodorakis ballet Zorba the Greek Léo Delibes opera Lakmé Sister Angelica, Gianni Schicci Sister Angelica, Gianni Schicci Coppelia (premiere) Sister Angelica, Gianni Schicci Coppelia Youth education program (Lecturer Tsvetana Toncheva) 27.11 29.11 19:00 17:00 Coppelia P Tchaikovsky ballet . Swan Lake The Magic Flute (Children education program) The Girl of the Golden West (premiere) The Girl of the Golden West The Girl of the Golden West P Tchaikovsky ballet . The Nutcracker The Girl of the Golden West The Girl of the Golden West The Girl of the Golden West P Tchaikovsky ballet . The Nutcracker P Tchaikovsky ballet . The Nutcracker P Tchaikovsky ballet . The Nutcracker New Year Eve Gala concert December 02-06.12 10:00,11:30 13.12 14.12 16.12 17.12 18.12 20.12 21.12 26.12 27.12 28.12 31.12 19:00 16:00 19:00 17:00 19:00 19:00 16:00 17:00 17:00 16:00 18:00 28-30.10 10:00 November 05.11 19:00 07.11 08.11 09.11 14.11 16.11 21.11 22.11 23.11 25.11 19:00 19:00 16:00 19:00 16:00 19:00 19:00 16:00 17:00 Performances take place at National Opera and Ballet B-4, ul. Vrabcha 1, tel. 987 13 66. More info at www. operasofia.bg Sofia In Your Pocket Culture & eVents “Pictures Of An Epoch” - 60 years of National Art Gallery Puppet Theatre Founded in 1946 by Mara Penkova. The first Bulgarian puppet theatre quickly succeeded in capturing the public’s attention. Only two years later, the troupe was awarded a state subsidy and became the first officially-recognized professional state theatre in Bulgaria. Since its founding, the puppet theatre has staged more than 300 plays. The 1960s were the theatre’s golden era, characterized by highly successful performances that spread the theatre’s reputation for high-calibre and wildly popular puppet productions throughout the world, from Cuba to the U.S. and Canada, and from Western Europe to as far away as Japan. For example, the theatre’s productions of “King Marko” (1967) and “Pinocchio” (1968) were featured in Edinburgh’s prestigious theatre festival; “The Watchmaker” (1965) was also noted for its striking visuals. The theatre provides quality entertainment for children and youthful audiences; their sixty years of experience have allowed them to develop a truly professional approach to our art form and to create exceptional productions. 04.10 05.10 With a unique exhibition “Pictures Of An Epoch “, the National Art Gallery, which is the biggest museum of Bulgarian art, is celebrating it’s 60th anniversary. Some interesting examples of it, which have been “seasoning” for more than two decades in the catacombs of the ex-Party House, will be seen by audiences for the first time. They have been a part of collections, owned by highest officials in the Bulgarian Communist Party, after 09.09.1944. These paintings present the art cravings of totalitarian leaders and are in a sense, the real “Pictures Of An Epoch”. The exhibition can be viewed from 25.09.2008 to 21.11.2008 10.10 11.10 12.10 18.10 19.10 24.10 25.10 25.10 26.10 10:30 and 12:00 10:30 and 12:00 19:00 10:30 and 12:00 10:30 and 12:00 16:30 10:30 and 12:00 19:00 10:30 and 12:00 16:30 10:30 and 12:00 The three piglets The princess and the pea Pinocchio - forbidden for children. Per formance for adults Fairytale for Elfs Who has a donkey ears Th e prin c ess es an d dragon Fairytale for the Priest and his servant Glupan (the fool) The big laughing Performance for adults One fairy town The curious baby elephant Snow Princess 15 Famous Bulgarians Paisiy Hilendarski- The Sparkle Of Enlightenment In the dark times of the Turkish rule, for hundreds of years Bulgarians followed the code: “No sword cuts an obedient head”. The glorious days of the First and Second Bulgarian Kingdoms, their history, language and culture were long since forgotten and Bulgarians had lost most of their national identity and pride. It was Paisiy Hilendarski, who first tried to awaken the Bulgarian spirit, by telling them about the great rulers, of the Saint brothers Kiril and Metodiy and the Bulgarian Alphabet. His life’s work “Istoria Slavenobolgarskaa” (History of Slavs and Bulgarians) was a small book, which was copied by hand by clerics and distributed among the enslaved. It was the sparkle, that set alight Bulgarian pride and the future Bulgarian Revolution. Bulgarians learned about their glorious history and the struggle for reviving the Bulgarian Kingdom glowed for years to blaze a hundred years later. Little is known of Paisiy Hilendarski, but he is regarded as one of the brightest figures in Bulgarian Culture and History. He was born in Bansko in 1722 and died in 1773. October - December 2008 16 Culture & eVents Rock and pop Richard Clayderman Sofia, NDK, Hall 1 tickets: 40-80Lv This ear and grandmother friendly musician has sold more than 90 million albums worldwide and will definitely fill the hall up to the rim and touch your gentle and sensitive side. Perfect for elderly ones and all piano students. 17.10 Benediction, Holy Moses, Nominon Sofia, club Blue Box tickets: 30-35Lv Cult British grinders Benediction will kill music and your unsuspecting ears, along with the most growling woman in music - Sabina Classen and her trash band Holy Moses. Do not underestimate Swedish death metallers Nominon who are here to crush… 18.10 Calima Sofia, NDK, Hall 1 tickets: 20-30Lv The colourful bunch of Calima, consists of 15 musicians who fuse flamenco with modern sounds. Their show is a part of the “Meet The World” festival of world music. Must see for all who prefers smelly candles to electricity… 20.10 SMV (Stanley Clarke, Marcus Miller, Victor Wooten) Sofia, NDK, Hall 1 tickets: 30-60Lv In case you are not a musician, it’s good to know that these three are the best bass players walking on Planet Earth. Expect tons of crazy bass-lines and slapping from the Masters of the thick strings and fat sound. A compulsory live show for everyone who plays the bass or just dreams about it… 24.10 Zuko 103 Sofia, Hristo Botev Hall tickets: 30-40Lv The originators of the “Brazilectro” sound will elevate your soul with their mix of Brazilian and electronic-flavored music. They are here to present their latest album, inspired (of course) by the Rio Carnaval. David Sanborn 25.10 Sofia, NDK, Hall 1 tickets: 30-60Lv A jazz legend and a true master of the saxophone, David Sanborn has recorded numerous albums of smooth jazz, 15.10 and has also done session work with most of the biggest stars in contemporary music. His three Grammy awards speak for themselves… 25.10 Gorgon Fest Sofia, Hristo Botev Community Center tickets: 27-30Lv If you have more than 5 piercing and at least 5 tattoos, and have your room painted black for the last 10 years, you’ll have the time of your life there. See Diary Of Dreams and Voyvoda, be as unhappy and sombre as you can ever be… 28.10 Tarja Turunen Sofia, Universiada Hall tickets: 20-30Lv This angelic soprano singer has left the internationally famous symphonic power metal band Nightwish to pursue a solo career. Now it is time for her to prove that good looks and opera singing can be metal too! 30.10 Juno Reactor Sofia, Universiada Hall tickets: 20-30Lv Famous with their mixing of orchestral, electronic and world music, and known around the world as the “back up band” for ex-porn star Tracy Lords, these cats have lots of tricks up their sleeves. They have travelled around the world, just to record some beautiful sounds for your ears. 06.11 Roisin Murphy Sofia, Universiada Hall tickets: 35-45Lv This stylish and angry, yet mellow singer is not your typical Pop Diva. Famous for her work with Moloko, she arrives with a band, a wardrobe of stylish clothes and some catchy pop and dance tunes, guaranteed to move your dancing shoes. 11.11 Stereo MC’s Sofia, Festivalna Hall tickets: 20-40Lv This cult UK hip-hop and electronic band have made two successful and memorable concerts in Bulgaria. They are here to present their brand new album Double Bubble. Sofia In Your Pocket Where to stay Sofia’s accommodation scene has been transformed by a rash of hotel building in recent years, and there is now a big choice in all categories. The advertised star ratings are reasonably accurate guide to quality in most cases, although they don’t always mean that all the rooms in particular establishment are up to the stated standard. Hotels invariably list their prices in euros, although you can pay the equivalent rate in leva if you wish. 17 Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi connection Cream of the crop Grand Hotel Sofia B-3, ul. Gurko 1, tel. 811 08 00, fax 811 08 01, reservations@grandhotelsofia.bg, www.grandhotelsofia.bg. Quality writ large. It is bang in the middle of town - on the doorstep of the National Theatre, the City Art Gallery, within walking distance from the Bulgaria Concert Hall and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The staff are professional from top to bottom, the rooms are huge, and the classy furnishings are built to last rather than just look good. The spacious bathrooms come with both bathtub and shower. The ground-floor Grand Cafe, facing out towards the City Garden, serves up some spectacular cakes. Q122 rooms (singles €150 - 235, doubles €175 - 260, suites €220 - 545). PHARUFGKD hhhhh Hilton D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 933 50 00, fax 933 51 11, reservations.sofia@hilton.com, www.sofia.hilton. com. Enduringly popular choice with visiting businessfolk, with a handily central location and the attention-to-detail service that you would expect from the chain. Rooms come in a soothing combination of blues, yellows and greens, and the generously-proportioned bathrooms feature both shower cabin and bathtub (so you can wash yourself twice at the same time!). Guests have free use of pool and gym, and all rooms come with coffee and tea-making facilities. Q245 rooms (singles €130 - 245, doubles €310, suites €375 1000). PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh Holiday Inn Sofia H-8, bul. Aleksandar Malinov 111, tel. 807 07 07, fax 807 07 08, info@holidayinnsofia.bg, www. holidayinnsofia.bg. Dependable standards of 5-star comfort and service from an experienced chain. Rooms feature flat-screen TVs, wireless internet and bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Located near the Mladost business park it’s a popular choice for business folk, and the centre of town is only a 20-minute taxi ride away. International cuisine in the all-day Brasserie and InCanto restaurant provide excuses to linger on-site, as do the fully-equipped gym and 19-metre swimming pool. The range of conference facilities on offer make this a choice venue for hardheaded get-togethers. Q130 rooms (doubles €74 - 145, suites €164 - 185). PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh luxury that the chain is famous for: soothing colours, deepmattressed beds, classy marble-floored bathrooms (featuring both bathtub and shower), and electric kettles in every room. Standard rooms on the south side of the building are perfectly adequate, but it’s the business class doubles and junior suites on the north side that come with fabulous views of Narodno sabranie square. Notwithstanding the surrounding nightlife (both Flannnagans Pub and the London Casino are on the ground floor of the same building), the hotel itself is nicely quiet. Q136 rooms (singles €120 - 150, doubles €156 - 220, suites €200 - 230). POHARUFGKDW hhhhh 5, tel. 981 65 41, fax 980 64 64, Sofia.Reservations@ luxurycollection.com, www.luxurycollection.com/sofia. Sofia’s longest-established luxury hotel, and part of the Sheraton chain for a decade and a half, this urban landmark in the heart of downtown Sofia combines traditional five-star frills with high-tech amenities. The building itself is a showpiece of 1950s architectural style, featuring sweeping staircases, long and spacious corridors, and chandeliers on every floor. “Classic” rooms are contemporary in style with blue and orange decor and classy bathrooms. “Executive” rooms boast near-antique furniture, flat-screen TVs and coffee-and-tea-making facilities. Spacious ground-floor lobby areas and a chic cafe-restaurant provide the icing on the cake. Q188 rooms (singles €310 - 355, doubles €320 - 370, apartments €420 - 435). PO� HARUFLGKDW hhhhh Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya Upmarket 911 97 61, hotelanel@hotelanel.com, www.hotelanel. com. If you want to stay in a top-class hotel which has more character than the international chains, then this modern building on the fringes of downtown Sofia just about fits the bill. It’s stuffed to the gills with contemporary Bulgarian paintings and sculptures and has the feel of a top international gallery when you first cross the threshold. The rooms themselves come in bold blues and browns, and there’s an exotic on-site Spa centre with a water-surrounded café-bar approached by bridge. Q58 rooms (singles €220 - 240, doubles €230 - 260, apartments €270 - 300). PHARUFGKDC hhhhh Anel B-2, bul. Todor Aleksandrov 14, tel. 911 99 00, fax Kempinski Hotel Zograf ski G-7, bul. Dzheims Baucher 100, tel. 969 22 22, fax 969 22 23, kempinski. zografski@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.bg. Five-star comforts can be taken for granted here, although the hulking, high-rise nature of the place will not suit those who want a cosy intimate retreat. Rooms are currently decorated in onyxblue and green, although some floors are being gradually refitted in beige. Now part of a German chain, the Zografski was originally built by Japanese investors in the 1980s, and you’ll still find a few uniquely oriental touches here - notably the Japanese garden centered on the pavilion-style Sakura restaurant. Q421 rooms (doubles €138 - 220, suites €300 - 528). PHARFLKDC hhhhh 4, tel. 933 43 34, fax 933 43 35, info.sofia@radissonsas. com, www.sofia.radissonsas.com. Occupying the prime site opposite Bulgaria’s parliament and the Aleksandar Nevski Memorial Church, the Radisson offers the kind of understated Radisson SAS Grand Hotel B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie Art ‘Otel C-2, ul. Gladston 44, tel. 980 60 00, fax 981 19 09, office@artotel.biz, www.artotel.biz. A joint BulgarianSpanish project occupying a re-vamped 1930s apartment block. Fine textures, unusual shapes, leather furniture, fireplaces and a smattering of contemporary paintings justify the hotel’s name. Just a block away from bul. Vitosha, the location is as central as they come, and some rooms on the upper storeys come with excellent roof-level views of the surrounding cityscape. Q22 rooms (singles €105 - 145, doubles €110 150, suites €155 - 160). PHARLKD hhhh October - December 2008 18 Where to stay Best Western Hotel City B-4, ul. Stara planina 6, tel. 915 15 00, fax 986 20 00, info@sofiacityhotel. com, www.sofiacityhotel.com. Relatively new structure with spacious modern rooms, and the range of services that you would expect from a four-star. Rooms are smart and shipshape and the staff members are eager to please. And it couldn’t be better placed for Sofia’s historical centre. Q61 rooms (singles €86 - 119, doubles €110 - 150, suites €140 - 240). PHARLGKD hhhh Best Western Hotel Europe G-8, ul. Liditse 1, tel. 970 15 00, fax 970 15 11, info@hotel-europe-bg.com, www.hotel-europe-bg.com. Contemporary building in a suburban street offering rooms decorated in cheerful citrusfruit colours. Some have large bathrooms with bathtubs, although you can’t always bank on getting one of these. The top floor Sky Bar has fantastic views west towards the city and south towards Mount Vitosha. Q32 rooms (singles €75 - 105, doubles €105 - 125, suites €160 - 185). PARFL hhhh Best Western Hotel Expo G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 149, tel. 817 81, fax 974 30 90, reservations@ hotelexposofia.com, www.hotelexposofia.com. Located mid-way between the airport and the city centre, this is an elegant business hotel with a state-of-the-art interior and impeccable staff. Expect modern design touches and arty pictures in the rooms. The only problem is that it’s located in a rather non-descript part of town, so don’t expect a beautiful view. Q99 rooms (singles €95, doubles €115, suites €155 175). POHARLGKW hhhh Casa Boyana G-6, ul. Ivanitza Dantchev 23, Boyana, tel. 805 08 00, fax 805 08 05, hotel@casaboyana. com, www.casaboyana.com. Brand-new boutique-style hotel in the mountain-side suburb of Boyana, close to the National History Museum and with great city-facing views from the windows of its restaurant. Rooms come with Italian furniture, bold colours and swanky bathrooms, and the attention-to-detail staff are as helpful as can be. Q16 rooms (singles €95 - 115, doubles €105 - 125, suites €145 - 165). PAUFLKDW hhhh 986 45 61, central@central-hotel.com, www.centralhotel.com. A relatively new hotel in a convenient downtown location, this is reasonably good value for the facilities on offer. Rooms are decorated in modern, functional style; most have showers rather than full-size bathtubs. Q28 rooms (singles €65 - 95, doubles €80 - 110, apartments €120 - 180). PJHARGKD hhhh Central Forum G-7, bul. Tsar Boris III 41, tel. 954 44 44, fax 954 33 33, central@central-hotel.com, www. central-hotel.com. Recently renovated block in a partresidential, part-commercial area about 1km southwest of the downtown action. The rooms are not all that spacious but come in stress-reducing creamy colours. Unusually for what claims to be a four star, most rooms come with shower, so you’ll need to fork out for a “luxury” room if you need to soak in a real bathtub. On the plus side we were rather excited to see electric kettles in some of the rooms - something of a first for Bulgaria. Q51 rooms (singles €65 - 95, doubles €80 - 110, apartments €120 - 140). PHARLKD hhhh Central Park Hotel C-2, bul. Vitosha 106, tel. 805 88 88, fax 805 87 87, reservations@centralparkhotel.bg, www.centralparkhotel.bg. This newish 4-star hotel enjoys an enviable city-centre location right in front of the National Palace of Culture and a stone’s throw from the main shopping, eating and drinking areas. The rooms are comfortable and well-equipped, most coming with views of the nearby park and (in some cases) Mount Vitosha in the distance. The restaurant does a good line in modern European cuisine, complemented by a strong selection of wines. A full range of business services and secretarial assistance is offered by the business center. Q77 rooms (singles €150 - 170, doubles €170 - 190, suites €235 - 255). PHARLGK hhhh Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel B-5, ul. Shipka 14, tel. 948 94 88, fax 948 94 90, reservations@crystalpalace-sofia.com, www.crystalpalace-sofia.com. The Crystal Palace emerged somewhat controversially from the conversion of a nineteenth-century apartment block, which involved mounting a huge glass-and-steel superstructure on top of the historic building. Conservation issues aside, it’s one of the best hotels in the city as far as service and elegance are concerned, offering sunny, spacious rooms with repro furniture and all the creature comforts. The health-and-fitness club, moodily lit and decorated in coffee and cinnamon shades, is the ideal place to wind down after Central B-2, bul. Hristo Botev 52, tel. 981 23 64, fax Uniquely central CENTRAL PARK HOTEL 106, Vitosha blvd, Sofia, Bulgaria tel. (359 2) 805 8888, fax: . (359 2) 805 8787 reservations@centralparkhotel.bg www.centralparkhotel.bg Sofia In Your Pocket Where to stay a hard day spent closing deals. Q63 rooms (singles €160, doubles €180 - 200, suites €240 - 260). PHARF� GKD hhhh 19 Elate Plaza corner of bul. Aleksandar Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 974 49 48, fax 974 94 46, sales@elateplaza.com, www. elateplaza.com. Ten minutes drive south from the airport in a residential neighbourhood this is a smallish comfy and charming hotel. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes, contemporary in style, decorated in wine-red, with light bathrooms. Suites have bathtubs. An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture. The fitness centre is an additional plus. Q17 rooms (singles €30 - 50, doubles €50 - 70, apartments €90 - 120). PRFLKW hhh Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses G-7, ul. Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, Atanas Dukov 36, tel. 819 19 19, fax 819 19 18, hotel@greenville-sofia.com, www.greenville-sofia.com. A 3-building complex set in leafy parkland south of the centre, offering a mixture of standard rooms and studio apartments. The rooms are light and luxurious, with flower bouquets and oil paintings adding a homely touch. Q113 rooms (singles €150 - 170, doubles €170 - 190, suites €210 - 250). PHARUFLGKDC hhhh Kolikovski Hotel C-2, ul. Hristo Belchev 46, tel./fax 980 95 69, hotel@kolikovski.com, www.kolikovski. com. Located on a cobbled street barely seconds away from bul. Vitosha, the Kolikovski makes an immediate impression with its sensuous colours and twenty-first-century-baroque design deatails. With dark purples and matt surfaces predominating, it makes a nice change from the pastel colours on offer elsewhere. Although primarily intended as a business hotel, it’s definitely the kind of place you would want to end up at after a successful date. Rooms are reasonably spacious and feature TV, minibar and desk space. The superior rooms also have an electric kettle. Q33 rooms (singles €70 - 95, doubles €80 - 105, suites €115 - 160). PHAK hhhh Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel B-2, bul. Vitosha 21, tel. 810 08 00, fax 810 08 01, office@lesfleurshotel.com, www.lesfleurshotel.com. A style-conscious boutique hotel in a prime downtown position, Les Fleurs looks as if it has jumped straight from the pages of an Italian interior design magazine. Artistic flair extends to every detail, from the floral motifs inlaid into the hardwood floorboards to the glassbead table lamps, flat-screen TVs, and swish bathrooms with cylindrical shower cubicles. Balconied top floor rooms have great views of the city centre. All rooms are irregularly shaped, and the corridors bend their way across the building rather than leading directly from A to B. The dodgy-looking black uniforms worn by the front-of-house staff make up the only element of the hotel that doesn’t quite fit. Q31 rooms (singles €150 - 190, doubles €160 - 200, suites €250 - 290). PJAGKW hhhh Light A-3, ul. Veslets 37, tel. 917 90 90, fax 917 90 10, sofiahotel@light.bg, www.hotels.light.bg. Classy modern hotel in a quiet cobbled street that seems miles away from the bustle of central Sofia. The public areas are boldly contemporary but the rooms themselves have a chintzy cosiness - note however that some come with a shower cabinet while others have a nice big bathtub. Q31 rooms (singles €75 - 200, doubles €100 - 230, suites €120 - 360). PHARFLKD hhhh 110, tel. 892 00 00, fax 892 00 50, reservations@maxisofia.com, www.maxisofia.com. If you want to stay in the middle of a fully-equipped leisure complex then you can’t go far wrong with the Olymp, plunked in the middle of a landscaped park dotted with swimming pools and gazebos. The rooms come in fresh colours and brave modern shapes, and many of them have good views of Mount Vitosha to the south. It’s a 15-minute drive to the city centre from here, but with a restaurant decorated in the style of a nineteenth-century Russian parlour, and a glass-roofed cafe area stuffed with potted plants, there’s plenty to explore on-site. Q62 rooms (singles €96 - 126, doubles €126 - 156, suites €160 - 220). PHARFLGKDC hhhh Park Hotel Vitosha H-8, ul. Rosario 1, tel. 816 88 88, fax 962 29 25, reservations@vitoshaparkhotel.com, www.vitoshaparkhotel.com. Brand-new Scandinavianstyle designer hotel full of light colours and nice wooden surfaces. Rooms are fitted with cooking facilities, and the on-site wellness amenities are perfect if you’re in need of a bit of pampering. In park-like surroundings on the southeastern edge of the city. Q170 rooms (60 singles €79, 80 doubles €99, 24 suites €119 - 139, 6 Vip studios €100). PHARFLGKDC hhhh Residence Oborishte G-8, ul. Oborishte 63, tel. 814 Maxi Park Hotel & Spa H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 48 88, fax 846 82 44, contact@residence-oborishte. com, www.residence-oborishte.com. Supremely comfortable and relaxing establishment made up almost entirely of two-room apartments, with warm rich colours predominating throughout. The just-married apartment with an inviting bathtub by the wide double bed almost had us rushing to the registry office. An informal make-yourself-at-home atmosphere adds to the welcoming feel. Q9 rooms (doubles €90 - 110, suites €130 - 160). PAR hhhh SkyWay Hotel H-8, bul. Simeonovsko shose 166A, tel. 819 21 00, fax 819 21 99, sky@skywayhotel.com, www. skywayhotel.com. Brand-new hotel in a freshly-renovated building, located in the middle-class-dream neighbourhood of Simeonovo, close to Mt Vitosha. Connections to the airport are reasonably speedy, and the city-centre is a 15-minute taxi ride away. The social areas combine ultra-modern straight lines with ethnic garden furniture and house plants. Rooms are decorated in bold colours and are almost spacious enough to play a round of golf in. There’s a cosy on-site restaurant and a business centre with PCs and free internet connection. Q85 rooms (doubles €105 - 130, apartments €150 - 170). PHAFGKW hhhh October - December 2008 20 Where to stay Sofia Plaza F-7, bul. Hristo Botev 154, tel. 813 79 79, fax 813 79 12, office@hotelsofiaplaza.com, www.hotelsofiaplaza.com. It’s about time there was a comfortable mid-price hotel in the vicinity of Sofia’s main railway station, and Sofia Plaza seems to fit the bill. Its 50 rooms have been squeezed into what is essentially a tall thin building, but the result is cosy rather than cramped. The rooms themselves feature blue carpets, peachy furnishings and fabrics, TV, minibar, and enough desk-space on which to park the average laptop. Apartments come with kitchenettes and extra fold-down beds. Q50 rooms (doubles €70 - 90, suites €190, apartments €210 - 250). PHARFKD hhhh Sofia Princess Hotel F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 131, tel. 933 88 88, fax 933 87 77, reservation@sofiaprincess-hotel.com, www.sofia-princess-hotel.com. If you’re the kind of person for whom size matters then the Princess is probably your kind of place. It’s the biggest hotel in Sofia, it also boasts the biggest casino in the Balkans - so it’s the perfect place to throw your money away in lavish style. Rich colours, tasseled curtains and fluffy cushions give the rooms a satisfyingly luxuriant feel. Q600 rooms (singles €87 - 96, doubles €107 - 116, apartments €152 - 230). POHARUFLGKC hhhh 983 17 23, marketing@hotelsvetasofia.com, www. hotelsvetasofia.com. A recently renovated nineteenthcentury building on a characterful, pedestrianized shopping street, this is as pleasant a downtown location as you’ll find. The rooms are decorated in bright blue and yellow, with light and comfortable bathrooms. Note that regular doubles have showers, “luxury” rooms come with proper bathtubs. Q80 rooms (singles €90 - 130, doubles €100 - 140, suites €160 - 170, Vip apartment €250). PJHARFKDW hhhh info@hoteltriada.com, www.hoteltriada.com. Relatively new building offering big, light rooms decorated in different nuances of blue. The top-floor sky bar has excellent views of Sofia’s mountainous surroundings. The hotel offers perfect conditions for business meetings and seminars. Q62 rooms (singles €80, doubles €115, apartments €140). PHAR� FLKD hhhh Sveta Sofia A-2, ul. Pirotska 18, tel. 983 50 33, fax Vega Sofia Hotel G-8, bul. G. M. Dimitrov 75, tel. 806 60 00, fax 806 60 09, sales@hotelvegasofia.bg, www. hotelvegasofia.bg. This swanky modern 4-star lies 4km south of the centre, although its location at the intersection of broad boulevards ensures that you can speed in and out pretty effectively. Rooms feature coffee-coloured decor, neat modern bathrooms with tub, flat-screen TVs, and desks offering a reasonable amount of work space. Superior rooms and suites have small terraces and tea-and-coffee-making facilities. The spiral staircase, linking the lobby area to café and restaurant, adds style and sociability to the hotel’s public spaces. The state-of-the-art solarium, fitness centre, and massage facilities are an additional major plus. Q77 rooms (singles €120 - 140, doubles €140 - 160, apartments €190 230). PHAUFLGKDW hhhh Triada G-8, ul. Venera 5, tel. 970 67 67, fax 970 67 10, Tsarsko Selo bul. Simeonovsko Shose, tel. 816 01 01/0899 914 493, w w w.tsarskoselo-bg.com. Found on the busy Ring Road at the foot of Vi tosha mountain and abou t 20 min by car from the centre and from the cabin lift (depending on the traffic), this hotel complex is buil t on 50 000 sq. m. featuring 3 apar tment blocks and 8 villas among lush green areas wi th ar tificial lake wi th fish, tennis cour t, football field, ou tside swimming pool and even a chapel. The rooms and apar tmen ts, wi th ki tch enet te, are not too big, except for the Sui te De Lu xe which is huge. They are decorated in beige, green or crème colours and hold a king size or twin beds. The bathrooms are ei ther wi th sh ower cabins or bath tubs and some h old a bidet. The junior sui tes come wi th pri vate sauna for two or more... The hotel complex has a SPA centre with inside swimming pool, Jacuzzi, Finish and Herbal sauna, Turkish and steam bath, rela x room, ice room, solarium, fi tness hall, massage and cosmetic shops. This is a preferred place for spor ts teams. Q (singles €54 61, 132 doubles €66 - 74, 25 apar tments €87 - 153). POTHAFLBKDW hhhh Mid-range 967 32 44, fax 967 31 46, reservations@svetasofiaalexanders.com, www.svetasofia-alexanders.com. A small-sized modern building in the mountainside suburb of Dragalevtsi, a 20-minute drive from the centre. Rooms are spacious and the staff seem like a cheerful, helpful bunch. If you want a relaxing, secluded out-of-town location, then this fits the bill. Q18 rooms (singles €26, doubles €26, suites €44). AFLKD hhh Alexander Palace H-7, ul. Nartsis 1, Dragalevtsi, tel. Arte B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 5, tel. 402 71 00, fax 402 71 09, reception@artehotelbg.com, www.artehotelbg. com. Opened towards the end of 2006. Arte occupies an excellent position on a central boulevard, but is well enough sound-insulated to ensure that Sofia’s notoriously screechy tramcars are unlikely to disturb your beauty sleep. The owner Sofia In Your Pocket Where to stay is a bit of an art collector, and the selection of modern Bulgarian paintings adorning the hotel hallways and restaurant pretty much justify the establishment’s name. Rooms are contemporary in style, with white walls, flat-screen TVs, and terracotta- or chocolate-coloured accessories. Note that breakfast costs an extra €10 per person. Q25 rooms (10 doubles €120, 2 apartments €150 - 160, 13 double de-lux €130). PAGKW hhh 56, office@hotel-latinka-sofia.com, www.hotel-latinkasofia.com. Sleek and modern outside, comfy and charming within, this is an exceedingly good mid-range choice indeed. About 3km southeast of the centre, it’s only 5 minutes’ walk away from the huge expanse of greenery that is Borisova Gradina park. Rooms are decked out in mood-enhancing primary colours and come with telephone, cable TV, internet connection and mini-bar. Ask for one of the top-floor rooms with attic ceiling if you want a bit of atmosphere. Q26 rooms (10 singles €50 - 55, 15 doubles €70 - 75, 1 apartment €80). PALGKW hhh 21 Latinka G-8, ul. Latinka 28A, tel. 870 08 48, fax 870 08 Atlantic H-8, ul. 19-a 2, Simeonovo, tel. 961 34 00, fax 961 21 32, atlantic@mail.orbitel.bg, www.atlanticbg.com. Located in the relative seclusion of Simeonovo, a suburb on the lower slopes of Mount Vitosha, this extremely plush place braced by a pair of fancy turrets makes for an ideal out-of-town retreat. Bathrooms are on the small side but rooms are otherwise extremely cosy. The top-floor restaurant offers great views towards the city. Q17 rooms (6 singles €50 - 55, 6 doubles €64 - 69, 8 apartments €75 - 95). HARFLKD hhh Bulgari A-2, ul. Pirotska 50, tel. 831 00 60, fax 983 32 29, bulgarihotel@yahoo.com, www.bulgarihotel. net. Small and friendly spot in a picturesque, cobbled-street quarter of old Sofia. The tangerine-coloured rooms are on the small side, but feature TV and, in most cases, a tiny desk too. Some bathrooms boast a bathtub, others have a Bulgarianstyle non-partitioned shower. If you can, try and reserve the ‘Melnik’ room on the top floor: its glass-covered balcony has the feel of a conservatory but comes with skyline-level views. Breakfast is served on glass-topped tables filled with seashells. The hotel is gay-friendly. Q13 rooms (12 doubles €65, 1 apartment €140 - 200). PJARG hhh Legends G-7, bul. Cherni vrah 54-56, tel. 961 79 30, fax 961 79 33, info@hotel-legends.bg, www.hotel-legends. bg. Situated in the Hladilnika district 4km south of the centre, Legends offers all the business-class comforts but has the added advantages of medum-sized-hotel intimacy and medium-range prices. The bronzy-brown rooms come with desk space and bath-tubs. An internet connection for your laptop costs an extra €5 per day. Despite the neighbourhood’s relative lack of decent bars and restaurants, transport links are good: trams no. 9 and no. 10 will whisk you into town, while bus no. 66 powers its way up to Aleko on Mt Vitosha. Q49 rooms (3 singles €64 - 74, 40 doubles €76 - 86, 2 apartments €94 - 104, 4 Apartment hause €104 - 114). PALK hhh Lion A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 60, tel. 917 84 00, fax 917 84 01, office@hotelslion.bg, www.hotelslion.bg. This stately nineteenth-century building overlooks a major road intersection mid-way between the train station and the centre, and is a great place from which to observe the constant pulse of pedestrians and traffic if you get a front-facing room. Many of the rooms have characterful architectural touches you won’t find elsewhere, with bay windows in some, arched windows in others. Décor is a bit hit and miss though: some rooms are inoffensively yellow, others have boldly stripy wall coverings. Q33 rooms (14 singles €65, 15 doubles €80, 1 apartment €110, 3 single luxury). PARK hhh 965 44 45, info@lozenetzhotel.com, www.lozenetzhotel. com. A contemporary building in a residential area just south of the city centre. Rooms are light and spacious, although some of the bathrooms are a tight squeeze. There is a small but relaxing garden attached to the restaurant. Q31 rooms (singles €62 - 74, doubles €85, suites €85, superior €68 - 80). PHARLGK hhh Planina 16, tel. 0898 43 67 00, fax 980 84 14, info@ casaferrari.com, www.casaferrari.com. This centrally located small hotel is situated on a quiet street within walking distance of Sofia’s main tourist attractions. Decorated with classic Italian furnishings, an atmosphere is produced combining luxury with relaxed charm. In addition to the three tastefully styled guest rooms, is a large, bright breakfast room, an ideal place for getting the day off to a good start, or reminiscing about your trip’s highlights. The married couple, who serve as your hosts, are congenial and very helpful in planning the most effective way to see the sights in Sofia. All-in-all, the Casa Ferrari is a very pleasant home away from home. Q3 rooms (singles €60, doubles €85, triples €95). PTJARG hhh Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast C-1, ul. Lulin Lozenetz E-3, bul. Sveti Naum 23, tel. 965 44 44, fax Diter C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 65, tel./fax 989 89 98, hotel@diterhotel.com, www.diterhotel.com. Located in a sensitively-restored nineteenth-century house in a quiet but superbly central street, this is a real find. Rooms come in mood-enhancing blues and oranges and are equipped with minibar, TV and safe. Generous provision of desk space is a major plus, as is the provision of state-of-the-art massage nozzles in the shower cubicles. The T-shaped room no. 302 (a single) will suit the idiosyncratic travellers down to the ground. Q21 rooms (7 singles €72 - 82, 12 doubles €92, 2 suites €99 - 119). PARK hhh Meg Lozenetz D-3, ul. Krum Popov 84, tel. 965 19 70, Kapri G-8, ul. Han Omurtag 76, tel. 843 50 73, fax 944 27 72, kapri@fog-bg.net, www.kapri-hotel.dir.bg. Medium-sized and rather intimate hotel in a quiet neighbourhood 2km east of the centre. Rooms are nicely kitted out in soothing pale greens and light brown furniture, but they’re a bit on the small side - the hotel is in a converted family house and everything seems a tight squeeze. Q20 rooms (8 singles €60, 11 doubles €80, 1 apartment €100). ARK hhh fax 965 19 71, reservation@meg-lozenetz.com, www. meg-lozenetz.com. Inviting mid-sized hotel in residential streets just south of the centre, near the City Center Sofia shopping mall. The deep carpeted rooms are decorated in warm colours and come with a lot of desk space. They also come in irregular shapes, which makes a nice change from the perfect rectangles on offer elsewhere. The hotel restaurant looks semi-tropical with its rattan chairs, wooden decking and house-plants - appropriately enough, it is home to an enormous green parrot. Q17 rooms (4 singles €75 - 90, 5 doubles €85 - 100, 4 triples €95 - 110, apartments €135 150, 4 luxury €100 - 110). PARGK hhh Renaissance B-2, pl. Vazrazhdane 2, tel. 957 11 12, fax 957 18 52, renaissance@online.bg, www.renaissance. yes.bg. If you don’t mind a bit of kitsch you’ll quite like this place, with its loud colours, copper engravings of renaissance paintings and retro furniture. Panoramic view of Sofia from the top-floor terrace. Q29 rooms (singles €50, doubles €55). PHAK hhh October - December 2008 22 Where to stay Scotty’s Boutique Hotel A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 11, tel. 983 67 77, fax 983 32 29, scottyshotel@yahoo.com. Small, intimate but superbly central hotel in a renovated house with 16 individually-decorated, colour-coordinated rooms - the one with zebra-print bedspreads being one of our particular favourites. Bathrooms are roomier than most, although some come with showers rather than full-size tubs. Relaxed atmosphere and attentive staff complete the picture. Gay-friendly. Q16 rooms (2 singles €45 - 55, 14 doubles €65 - 95). PAR hhh Niky C-2, ul. Neofit Rilski 16, tel. 952 30 58, fax 951 60 91, office@hotel-niky.com, www.hotel-niky.com. This superbly located and friendly place has a lot of admirers, so be sure to book in advance. The handful of single and double rooms come with modern furnishings, minibar, TV and WC/ shower. However the majority of rooms are roomy apartmentstyle affairs featuring kitchenette and bathtub. The garden restaurant, famed for its grills, comes into its own in spring and summer. Q22 rooms (singles €35 - 40, doubles €40 - 45, apartments €55 - 105). PARGKW hhh Pop Bogomil A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 5, tel. 983 11 65, fax 983 70 65, hotelpopbogomil@dir.bg, www.bulgariabedandbreakfast.com. Welcoming and intimate place in an area of cobbled residential streets a few minutes’ walk from the city centre. Rooms are on the small side and feature mix-and-match furnishings that might not quite make it into the pages of a design magazine, but everything else about this hotel seems tidy and comfy. Some rooms have bathtubs, some have showers, so ask in advance if you’ve got a preference. Breakfast costs a few leva extra. Q10 rooms (doubles €32 - 40). hhh Red Bed and Breakfast C-4, ul. Lyuben Karavelov 15, tel./fax 988 81 88, info@redbandb.com, www.redbandb. com. An early twentieth-century villa houses the Red House cultural centre as well as this charming B&B. The rooms come in a variety of different styles: some feature soothingly pale decor while others are kitted out in sensuous reds and greens. Toilet and bathroom are located in the hallway, but you do get breakfast delivered to your room. The top-floor terrace is a great place to hang out when the weather gets warmer. Q6 rooms (singles €25 - 35, doubles €40 - 50). AR RotasaR G-8, ul. Liditse 2, tel. 971 45 71, fax 971 45 74, hotel@rotasar.com, www.rotasar.com. Smallish hotel with a cosy feel, in a residential neighbourhood 2km east of the centre on the way to Sofia airport. Rooms come in different sizes and colour schemes but are all equipped with a small TV, minibar and bathroom. Colourful contemporary prints in the rooms and hallways add a bit of character. Breakfast in the downstairs restaurant costs an extra €3. Q18 rooms (doubles €40, apartments €50 - 60). PARK hhh Out of town SPA Hotel Bankya Palace bul. Varna 70, Bankya, tel. 812 20 20, fax 997 70 64, hotel@bankyapalace. com, www.bankyapalace.com. The Bankya Palace was renovated in 2005 and some parts of it are really stateof-the-art. Rooms are not too spacious, but are light and decorated in fresh colours. Most bathrooms are with bathtubs. The on-site Spa centre offers a large number of superb remedial, recuperation and relaxation programs (including aromatherapy, chocolate or honey massage, wine-therapy and thalasso-therapy). The complex has its own bowling hall and a big outdoor swimming pool with mineral water. Q73 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, apartments €145). PHARUFLBKDC hhhh Budget Aris F-7, ul. Knyaz Boris 203, tel. 931 31 77, fax 931 00 19, info@hotel-aris.com, www.hotel-aris.com. Tucked away in a quiet leafy street but perfectly placed for the train and bus stations, Aris is a welcome addition to Sofia’s growing range of civilized but cost-conscious hotels. Rooms are functional but comfortable, with soothing colour schemes, reasonably high ceilings, TVs and hairdryers. Apartments featuring fold-down sofa-beds are perfect for those travelling as a group or a family. Q18 rooms (12 doubles €55, 4 triples €66, 1 suite €66, 1 apartment €77). P hhh Brod H-8, Simeonovsko shose 66, tel. 968 19 80, fax 968 19 84, hotelbrod@yahoo.com, www.hotelbrod.com. A suburban hotel of recent construction offering excellent value in this price range. All rooms are neatly kitted out in a mixture of pastel and terracotta shades - “luxury” rooms have good-sized bathtubs, while others come with a simple shower unit. Simeonovsko shose itself is hardly Sofia’s most inspiring street, but you’ll feel quite at home here once the friendly and helpful staff have told you where the local cafés, shops and bus-stops are. And taxis to/from here aren’t going to break the bank. Q44 rooms (13 singles €45, 27 doubles €55 - 70, 4 suites €80). PHALGK hhh 866 25 37, sofia@hotels-harmony.com, www.hotelsharmony.com. You won’t be drowned in luxury here but you’ll certainly find everything necessary for a pleasant and restful stay, and the small scale of the place makes you feel looked after. It’s right next door to one of Sofia’s most popular indoor and outdoor swimming pools, which you can use free of charge the first time, after which a small entrance fee comes into operation. Q16 rooms (singles €55, doubles €75, suites €85 - 95). PHALK hhh 31 44, hotel@madridbg.com, www.madridbg.com. Intimate hotel in a quiet area just east of the city centre, offering simply furnished en-suite rooms and little in the way of extras. Difficult to beat at this price. Q15 rooms (singles €25, doubles €35 - 50, triples €40, quads €45). P h Shipka G-7, bul. Totleben 34A, tel. 915 14 87, fax 953 Harmony E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 866 53 77, fax 12 30, shipka_hotel@abv.bg, www.hotel-shipka.com. Twenty minutes’ walk southwest of the centre, this Defence Ministry-owned establishment is a bit care-worn and institutionalised at first glance, but it’s far from being a boot camp. Rooms are adequate and come with TV, fridge and WC/ shower: those in the ‘lux’ category have the added benefits of plush carpets and jolly colour schemes. The fab subterranean fitness complex looks like a training centre for special agents: saunas, steam baths and gym are free for hotel guests, while a plethora of wellness treatments come at an extra charge. Q135 rooms (singles €34, doubles €43, apartments €62, apartment vip €92). PHFLKD hhh Madrid G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 12, tel. 944 89 52, fax 943 Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel. com, www.art-hostel.com. Located in the same centrallylocated nineteenth-century building as the ever-popular Art Hostel (see “Hostels” below), Sofia Garden offers simplyfurnished but characterful rooms with wooden floorboards, distressed chairs and wardrobes, and high ceilings. Toilet and shower are across the hallway. There’s a communal hall with homely ceramic stove, and a small kitchen complete with kettle and toaster. Room price includes breakfast coupons, which you can cash in at the excellent “Kuhnyata na mama” canteen-restaurant just down the street. Q3 rooms (doubles €26 - 36). AR h Sofia In Your Pocket Where to stay Apartment hotels 30 02, fax 983 38 04, reception@dunavapartmenthouse. com, www.dunavapartmenthouse.com. A range of delightfully light and spacious apartments with parquet floors, neutral colours, kitchenette, TV and WC/shower. The 2-bed family apartments on the top floor come with attractive attic windows. Breakfast can be delivered from the nearby Tabiet restaurant if you’re too lazy to cook your own. Handily located in a downtown area characterized by quiet cobbled streets. Q (14 apartments €59 - 94). Rates fall dramatically the longer you stay. PARK 23 Apartment House Dunav A-4, ul. Dunav 38, tel. 983 tories equipped with double-decker bunks, and a communal sitting room with soft furnishings and occasional exhibitions. The weirdly decorated downstairs cafe-bar is reason enough to stay. Price includes a modest breakfast (served at a nearby cafe-restaurant, not on the premises). Q Dorm bed €11, mattress on the floor without breakfast €5. W Be My Guest C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 13, tel. 989 50 92, Apartment House Iztok G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 00, fax 970 01 28, aphouse_iztok@yahoo.com, www.apartmenthouseiztok.bg. Fully serviced apartment block on the southeastern fringes of the centre. The smallest studio apartments are no different to a mid-price hotel room, but providing you steer clear of these you should have no complaints. Expect lam floors, warm colours, and modern bathrooms with tubs. Breakfast is brought to your room, and there’s a strip of garden complete with kids’ play area out the back. Q (32 apartments €62 - 150). Rates fall in proportion to length of stay. PARLK Apartment House Sofia G-7, ul. Golo bardo 2-4, tel. 960 28 88, fax 960 28 60, info@aphouse-sofia.com, www.aphouse-sofia.com. Tidy new block in a residential area just south of the centre, offering comfy apartments ranging in size from 2-person studios to 2-bedroom family flats. All have laminated floors, pastel-coloured furnishings, TV, kitchenette, and bathrooms with full-sized tubs. Apartments are serviced daily. If you don’t fancy self-catering, you can eat very well at the Carrera restaurant on the ground floor. Q (28 apartments €100 - 220). Long-stay rates are substantially cheaper. PARLK bemyguest@mail.bg, www.bemyguest-hostel.com. Centrally-placed hostel with a rambling collection of rooms and a cosy if cramped living room. The dorms and doubles are functional in the extreme but funky ethno furnishings will make you feel at home. The 5-bed split-level apartment, decorated with kooky paintings, is well worth getting hold of if you’re travelling as a family or with friends. A basic breakfast is included. Q €12-20 per bed. PLW Hostel Mostel B-2, bul. Makedonia 2A, tel. 0889 223 296, info@hostelmostel.com, www.hostelmostel.com. Lurking behind an unlikely-looking metal doorway, Hostel Mostel is one of Sofia’s hidden treasures, occupying a reconstructed nineteenth-century inn which plonked surreally in a city-centre courtyard. The simple, mattress-on-the-floor accommodation is neat and clean: individual dorms can be booked as private rooms by twosomes or threesomes for a few extra euro during the low season. The spacious groundfloor social area, including pool table, internet terminal, kitchen, and oriental, cushion-strewn divan, is a major feature. Q €10-15 per person. W Hostel Sofia B-2, ul. Pozitano 16, tel. 989 85 82, hostel-sofia@yahoo.com. Sofia’s first-ever backpackerfriendly hostel is still going strong, with two floors of pinefloored, bunk-filled dorms (ranging in size from 12-bed to 4-bed) in a central apartment block. It still has the feel of a cosy private flat, with teddy-bear wallpaper in some of the dorms, lounge furniture stuffed into the hallway, and a small but fully-equipped kitchen. Breakfast included. Q €10 per person. W Apartment rental City Hotels Ltd bul. Evlogi Georgiev 85, tel./fax 987 67 81, office@rentinsofia.com, www.rentinsofia.com. This firm have around 30 apartments at their disposal, of varying sizes and at various locations around town. Judging by the one we saw, furnishings are tasteful, colour schemes are soothing, and kitchens and bathrooms are fully equipped with modern gear. Apartments are serviced on a daily basis. Q The prices range from €35 for one bedroom apts, to €80-100 for a 3-bedroom family dwelling. Prices decrease according to how long you stay. 866 15 57, office@variety-bg.com, www.variety-bg. com. Variety offer well over 20 properties in central Sofia and the inner-ring of suburban districts, with short- or long-term apartments ranging in size from 2- to 4-bedroom. Interiors are neat and tasteful, some feature a very high standard of interior design indeed. The apartments are fully serviced and secure. Q Prices vary between €40 and €70 depending on the size of the apartment, with discounts for long term stays. ALW Internet Hostel B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, 2nd floor, tel. 0889 138 298, fax 989 94 19, interhostel@yahoo.co.uk. A place that always seems to be full of nice and friendly young travellers. Clean and tidy rooms ranging in size from a single to a six-bed dorm. It’s a bit difficult to find at first: enter the shopping arcade at Alabin 50, look for the plain white door on your left, then head up the stairs. Q From €10 for 4 person, €20 private room, €30 for 2 person. R Sofia Guesthouse C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 27, tel. 403 01 00, info@sofiaguest.com, www.sofiaguest. com. Spacious and relaxing hostel with fresh-smelling, airconditioned dorms, a healthy number of toilets and showers on each floor, and a big sitting-room-cum-socializing area near the reception desk. Plus there’s a basement breakfast room and TV room. Use of internet terminal and washing machine for a small extra fee. Breakfast included. Q €1018 per person. W The Rooms A-5, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 0898 260 316, fax 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com. Quiet little place offering individual single and double rooms, most of which have an en-suite WC/shower. The charmingly odd furnishings include some genuine antiques. The cupboardsized socializing area (really just a corner of the hallway) features a lovely crimson sofa that is very easy to sink into but is virtually impossible to get out of. Breakfast (often featuring the typically Bulgarian banitsa cheese pastry) is available for a small extra fee. Q €10-15 per person. R October - December 2008 Variety E-3, ul. Yoan Ekzarh 20, tel. 963 31 51, fax Hostels Art-Hostel C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 21A, tel. 987 05 45, art-hostel@art-hostel.com, www.art-hostel.com. The original idea behind this little place was that it would be a hostel-cum-art gallery where people could meet and exchange ideas. It doesn’t always live up to its cultural mission but it’s quirky, friendly and central all the same. There are two dormi- 24 restaurants New restaurants are opening all the time in Sofia, but there aren’t enough good chefs to go round and standards tend to yo-yo as a result. Service is traditionally on the slow side, but things are picking up in this department. The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main course. Bulgarian fax 846 84 46, bulgarians@abv.bg, www.restaurantbulgary.com. For an elegant dining experience head for this historic house crammed full of sepia photographs of old Sofia. The menu focuses mainly on classic Bulgarian dishes although there’s a number of modern European choices too. The bow-tied wait staff seem to know their business, and the upstairs no-smoking rooms are genuinely secluded from the rest. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (1025Lv). PAGW Bulgari B-5, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 71, tel. 843 54 19, Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station 6 Animal friendly Armenian Egur, Egur C-5, ul. Sheinovo 18, tel. 946 17 65, egur@ abv.bg. Armenian food, superbly prepared, and presented with old-school elegance in a restaurant owned by BulgarianArmenian jazz singer Hilda Kazasyan. No-holds-barred carnivores should plump for the Caucasian flame-grilled kebabs, although there’s plenty in the way of subtly-spiced stews, and loads of vegetarian options involving aubergines, peppers, courgettes and other tasty fresh things. There’s an extensive list of both Bulgarian and international wines, expensive vintage tipples included. There’s another branch at B-4, ul. Dobrudzha 10. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-15Lv). PJA Divaka C-3, ul. Gladston 54, tel. 989 95 43. The “Savage” is extremely popular among younger locals for its relaxed informal atmosphere and good, inexpensive food. There’s a big choice of huge salads, the grilled pork and chicken dishes are dependably delicious, and even the vegetarian shish-kebab is surprisingly tasty. There are other branches at C-3 ul. Hristo Belchev 16 (a bright, minimalistically-decorated place that looks like a smart canteen for yuppies); and at C-3, ul. 6-ti septemvri 41A. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-8Lv). Etno B-3, ul. Alabin 35, tel. 988 75 75, etnoegur@ abv.bg. Spread out in a large basement in the heart of the downtown shopping area, this is a rather elegant take on a familiar down-on-the-farm rustic theme. Starched napkins and fancy cutlery adorn the tables, while garlic and corn cobs hang on rough whitewashed walls in the background. The menu aims to provide down-to-earth home cooking from around Europe (I’m sure we saw a Wiener Schnitzel in here somewhere), although the accent is on Bulgarian meat favourites - it’s a nice change to see Bulgarian grill-snacks given the serious cuisine treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5-15Lv). PJAIG Have Your Say If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree or disagree with us, scold us or praise us, but do give us your feedback, its essential! tel. 931 31 48, info@kashtite.com, www.kashtite. com. Hugely enjoyable theme restaurant located mid-way between the town centre and the train station, consisting of four large rooms, each designed in the folk style of a particular region of Bulgaria. Traditional musicians drift from room to room during the course of the evening, ensuring that no-one misses the show. The lengthy menu covers just about everything in the Bulgarian culinary repertoire, and the list of rakiyas will have you scratching your head wondering which to try next. QOpen 11:30 - 02:00. (812Lv). PAIE Hadzhidraganovite kashti F-7, ul. Kozloduy 75, Halbite C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 72, tel. 980 41 47. One of central Sofia’s most enduringly popular beer hallcum-eateries, with a predominantly Bulgarian menu - but without the folkloric touches you get in some of the more self-consciously touristy places. Expect instead a relaxing jumble of rough-and-ready wooden tables and chairs, a generous choice of domestic and international beers, and rock or blues on the sound system. Very popular, so be sure to reserve at weekends. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (5-15Lv). PGBS Chevermeto E-3, bul. Cherni vrah 31, tel./fax 963 03 08, chevermeto@chevermeto-bg.com, w w w. chevermeto-bg.com. Despite it’s location in the basement of the greying Hotel Hemus, an evening at the “Spit-Roast Lamb” comes across as an entertaining journey into Bulgar- Sofia In Your Pocket restaurants ian rural ethnography. Traditional textiles are draped across every surface, and folk groups perform nightly after 8pm. The sizeable menu includes just about everything in the Bulgarian culinary repertoire, so there should be something here to suit all tastes and pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (9-22Lv). PAILE 25 Magdanoz (Parsley) B-1, ul. Damyan Gruev 28, tel. 981 14 30. A friendly restaurant furnished with wooden sitting and beautiful garden. The chef prepares delicious salads, soups, meat and vegetarian dishes, desserts. They offer also a nice lunch menu. Try the bolyar’s meat balls or the mushrooms filled with cream and yellow chese. The staff is not English speaking. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. 6B Manastirska magernitsa C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 67, tel. 980 38 83, www.magernitsa.com.. Sheltered in an elegantly decorated nineteenth-century house, the restaurant offers an imaginative approach towards traditional Bulgarian cuisine - the owners have collected traditional recipes from Bulgarian monasteries and put them into practice here. Although the menu is so long that it takes an eternity to decide what to eat, it features a lot of things you won’t find elsewhere (the prune salad works wonders for your digestive system), and has plenty of choice for vegetarians. Service can be slow, but you won’t find many finer settings for a long leisurely meal. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (8-12Lv). PJAB podlipite.com. One of Sofia’s longest-established and most enjoyable traditional restaurants, with a suite of rooms done out in the style of a timber-beamed small-town tavern. The menu is extensive and doesn’t really have any weak points - the succulent shashlik-style skewer-grilled kebabs constitute one particular treat. Vegetarians can assemble a handsome feast from the courgette-, aubergine- and pepper-based dishes listed as starters. Service is brisk and enthusiastic, and live folk music is a feature of weekend evenings. It gets packed out even at lunchtimes, so it’s wise to reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (8-20Lv). PLGBSW French 17/0887 523 376, bistrot_letranger@hotmail.com. Homely bistro offering very reasonable food - good place for a quick quiche or a more leisurely three-course meal. The chef is a Frenchman who owns the place together with his Bulgarian wife, so the place is a real family restaurant. Good service and meals that live up to expectations. What more could be said. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (14-22Lv). PA L’Etranger A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 78, tel. 983 14 Fun 53, rubin@happy.bg, www.happy.bg. If you’re the kind of person who likes bright neon lights, laminated menues and electric guitars stuck to the walls, then this is most emphatically the place for you. Expect to dine on grilled chicken and pork dishes followed by an array of toothsome sweets. The large choice of alcoholic substances ensures that this is a popular venue in which to spin out an evening. It’s a huge place that’s constantly busy, so be prepared to squeeze in wherever the wait-staff can find you a place. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-10Lv). PJABSW Pod lipite D-5, ul. Elin Pelin 1, tel. 866 50 53, www. Happy Bar & Grill B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 4, tel. 980 73 Pri Yafata B-2, ul. Solunska 28, tel. 980 17 27. Traditional Bulgarian cuisine served up in a suite of rooms decked out in folk textiles and nineteenth-century domestic nick-nacks. It’s an excellent place in which to sample the standard Bulgarian repertoire of grilled meats, backed up by an array of healthy salads and some superb spicy bob (baked beans Balkan-style). Some of the cheaper wines are a bit rough though. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. (6-12Lv). PAEW Czech Cheshki klub B-5, ul. Krakra 15, tel. 944 13 83. With its plain wood furnishings, plain tablecloths and busy but uncommunicative waiters, the Czech Club is one of those reassuringly old-fashioned places that seems to occupy its own bubble in space and time - Ruritania in the 1950s being the most likely coordinates. The prices are stuck in the 1950s too - you can eat handsomely here for the price of a salad in some other Sofia restaurants. The menu is vaguely central European padded out with Bulgarian grills. For something authentically Czech order the goulash or pork served with knedliky - fantastically filling sliced dumplings. The well-kept Staropramen beer is another reason to make the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sat, Sun. (3-6Lv). J Perfekt C-5, D-5, Boris’ Garden (Borisova Gradina). Situated at the entrance of Boris’ garden, this restaurant is entirely inspired by the German beer houses. The menu includes German delicacies such as brewery soup and different types of sausages. Perfekt breakfast - mix of sausages, eggs and ship’s biscuit with vegetables. The menu looks Take a bite out of www.inyourpocket.com October - December 2008 26 restaurants Decoding the menu Starters and salads (предястия и салати) Shopska salata (шопска салата) – sliced tomato, cucumber, sweet pepper, onion and grated white sheep’s cheese Ovcharska salata (овчарска салата) – tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, onions, mushrooms, ham, egg and cheese Snezhanka (снежанка) – made of strained yoghurt, cucumber and garlic Kyopolu (Aubergine puree) (кьопоолу) – salad of mashed baked eggplant, peppers, loads of garlic, parsley, vinegar and sunflower oil Sudzhuk (суджук), lukanka (луканка), pastarma (пастърма) – traditional Bulgarian dried salami with various spices, salt and pepper Soups (супи) Tarator (таратор) – cold soup with yoghurt, cucumber, walnuts and dill. Especially popular in hot summer Bob chorba (bean soup) (боб чорба) – well soaked dried beans, a variety of vegetables and plenty of herbs Shkembe chorba (шкембе чорба) – tripe soup cooked in milk with garlic, vinegar and chilli Zelenchukova supa (зеленчукова супа) – vegetable soup Meat dishes (ястия с месо) Kebapche (кебапче) – grilled minced meat rolls Kyufte (кюфте) – grilled minced meat balls Shish Kebap (шиш кебап) – grilled skewered meat, onion and paprika Meshana skara (мешана скара) – a Bulgarian version of mixed grill Sarmi (сърми) – cabbage or vines leaves stuffed with meat Kavarma (кавърма) – meat and vegetable stew, usually served in individual pots Banska kapama (банска капама) – chicken, pork, veal, cabbage, and rice Gyuvech (гювеч) – a dish of vegetables and meat baked in an earthenware pot Lamb in oven (St. George’s way) (агнешко на фурна) – lamb stuffed with pluck and rice, cooked in the oven, served with green salad Vegetarian dishes (постни ястия) Sirene po shopski (сирене по шопски) – white sheep’s cheese baked with eggs Chushki byurek (чушки бюрек) – fried peppers stuffed with egg and cheese Kashkaval pane (кашкавал пане) – fried, breaded yellow cheese Banitsa (баница) – flaky pastry filled with white cheese Kiselo mlyako (кисело мляко) – world famous Bulgarian yoghurt Deserts and sweets (десерти) Crem caramel (крем карамел) – dessert prepared from fresh milk, eggs and caramelized sugar, similar to the classic French crème brulee Baklava (баклава) – flaky pastry stuffed with pistachio nuts in syrup Kadaif (кадаиф) – shredded wheat stuffed with nuts in syrup like a 4 page newspaper, dated November 10, 1989 (the fall of the comminist rule in Bulgaria). The visitors are mostly teenagers, young families and retired. The music is 90ies but quiet enough so you can enjoy your conversation. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JBW Greek 806 390, office@kumbare.com, www.kumbare.com. Pretty much everything you would expect from a Greek restaurant is here in abundance, with a succulent repertoire of grilled lamb and fish dishes accompanied by luxuriant salads - all prepared under the watchful eye of a head chef from Tassos. The loud and exuberant musical soundtrack will soon put you in the right mood to dive into the selection of ouzos and retsinas. Chandeliers, flowers, and Ionian columns create a winning ambience of Mediterranean extravagance, an impression enhanced by the sharp-looking team of young men in starched white shirts that make up the wait-staff. Kumbare’s position on central Sofia’s main tourist route ensures a constant stream of diners - so you’d better make a reservation if your heart is set on eating here. Oh, and just in case you were wondering, “Kumbare” means “best man”, and is also the name of a traditional Greek dessert prepared from ladies’ fingers, mascarpone and nuts. QOpen 11:00 23:00. (10-18Lv). PJAEBS Kumbare B-3, ul. Saborna 14, tel. 981 17 94/0897 Hungarian Pri Latsi B-5, ul. Oborishte 18, tel. 846 86 87. Authentic Magyar cuisine, prepared under the watchful eye of Laszlo Sendi, former manager of the legendary (but no longer standing) Restorant Budapeshta. With no more than eight tables spread over two floors, it’s a delightfully cozy and intimate setting in which to enjoy some truly excellent food - try the rich, creamy, paprika-laden Szekely goulash, followed by shamloi galushki (fried dough balls covered in syrup). Folksy Hungarian embroidery on the walls and cheerful wait-staff provide the finishing touches. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (711Lv). PAGBS Chinese 88 78. Ignore the gaudy signs advertising the “Gentlemen’s Club” on the ground floor of the building and head upstairs to find one of Sofia’s better oriental eateries. The flavoursome if familiar repertoire of pork, beef and duck dishes has never disappointed, and the décor’s quite nice too: soothing shades of Burgundy prevail, and apart from a pair of enormous vases each big enough to house a fair-sized panda, there’s a reassuring absence of far-eastern kitsch. The no-smoking corner is relatively well secluded. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (4-9Lv). PJGS Devette drakona B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel. 981 Iztok B-2, ul. Pozitano 16. Handsome portions of mainstream Chinese-restaurant fare, served up in a pleasant two-tiered space. Satisfying in every way. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (5-6Lv). Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) B-2, ul. Ivailo 19, tel. 0899 006 061/983 60 34, vel@vel-bg.com, www.vel-bg.com. The food is of course Chinese and they have lots of spicy dishes. The menu is impressive with its www.inyourpocket.com Sofia In Your Pocket restaurants more than 200 dishes, most of which have choice for small or large portion. For delivery you can order by phone or online. They have another restaurant on ul. Slavyanska Beseda 3. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PBS are plenty of vegetarian options, decent naan bread and other authentic extras. Although the soothing orangey interior doesn’t go overboard with theatrical subcontinental touches, the background music is rarely quite so clichéfree. We had to listen to an Indian-style, sitar-spiced version of queasy Europe hit The Final Countdown - how the owner allowed this to sneak onto his compilation tape goodness only knows. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:00 - 24:00. (15-18Lv). PA 27 Magnolia B-2, ul. Tri ushi 2, tel. 987 11 20. Baretopped tables and a minimum of décor provide a suitably functional environment in which to feast upon cheap, filling and well-prepared food. The menu sticks to tried-andtrusted pork and chicken favourites - with the welcome addition of some fier y Sechuan dishes you won’t find elsewhere in town. Last time we were there the staff were playing a sequence of pounding techno tracks that seemed to be on a permanent loop - if this was intended as a digestional aid it was certainly a new one to us. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (5-7Lv). PS International Bistro Zita A-5, ul. Iskar 86, tel. 846 43 23/0899 190 586, bistrozita@abv.bg. This small restaurant (bistro) is one of the few in the neighbourhood. It is with two halls, each with 4-5 tables and an outside seating with 2 tables. They chose to decorate it in Bordeaux colours. The seating is wooden and the chairs have jolly cushions. The music is chill-out, there is a TV and the bathroom is clean. The waiter is English speaking, welcoming and fast serving. During lunch time his attitude will change as it’s extremely busy. They offer salads, grilled meat (try the ribs or the banski starets), fish, spaghetti, pizza and toasts. They have an interesting choice of alcoholic and nonalcoholic cocktails and milk shakes. QOpen 8:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3.60 - 9.00Lv). JGBSW Boogie Woogie D-2, in the subway at the crossroad of bul. Bulgaria and bul. Cherni vrah, tel. 865 22 88, bojidar_bojilov@abv.bg. Down in the bowels of the pedestrian underpass that burrows east from the Hilton Hotel lurks this groovy bolt-hole for the more design-conscious drinker and diner. Perch in the pea-green interior illuminated by what look like low-flying light bulbs, or prepare to bare your buttocks in a toilet that resembles the backdrop for a fashion shoot. The Indian Kohinoor C-2, ul. Han Aparuh 3, tel. 0882 53 25 41, info@kohinoor.bg, www.kohinoor.bg. 1st street off Hristo Botev at the Five Corners lies the Kohinoor. And, like its namesake it’s a real diamond. The menu is as predictable as most… of which Indian menus and the food is great. Huge portions too. Nice spacious downstairs restaurant with great space between the tables and an excellent bathroom. The bathroom alone is worth a visit. The food is brilliant. Service comes with a real smile. And, with a bill that is actually a pleasure to pay, all in all it’s worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8-15Lv). PJ Taj Mahal B-4, ul. 11-i avgust 11, tel. 987 36 32. Serviceable tikka masalas, rogan joshes and other familiar suspects in a relaxing three-storey space. There October - December 2008 28 restaurants Elate Plaza dar Malinov and bul. Andrey Saharov, tel. 0886 831 282, www.elateplaza.com. Glass-fronted bar&dinner, stylish designed in white and dark red colours, with comfortable modern furniture. Alongside the traditional Bulgarian specialties the restaurant offers a huge international menu of salads and starters, well-prepared steaks and chicken dishes. The service is helpful and friendly. It is a superb place for a relaxed drink in the evening with its wide range of wines and spirits. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (6-18Lv). PALBW Fast food Baalbek B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 4, tel. 987 09 07. Ever-popular Lebanese takeaway just off pl. Slaveykov offering burgers, chickenburgers, kibbeh, felafel, and delicious little cheese and spinach pies. There’s a small sit-down section upstairs. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30. (1.50 -5.00Lv). PJS bakery-cum-cafe serving up banitsa and byurek (Bulgarian flaky pastries) filled with cheese, spinach and other savouries. Wash them down with a carton of airyan (salty drinking yoghurt). QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. S Elate Plaza H-8, Mladost-1, corner of bul. Aleksan- Bakehouse B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12. Bright and clean Kuhnyata na mama C-3, ul. Racho Dimchov 3. Queue up at the counter for tasty dollops of home cooking from “Mum’s Kitchen”. Slightly pricier than the other fast food places but usually worth it. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. G takeaway burger joint and still the best. It’s packed at lunchtimes and remains the venue of choice for after-club munchies. Burgers come with a wad of deliciously greasy French fries stuffed inside. Doner kebabs and felafel fill out the menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. JS Mimas C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 68. Sofia’s first real menu concentrates on European food of the light-lunch variety, with salads, pasta dishes, club sandwiches and pizzas jostling for your attention - a handful of more substantial chicken and steak choices cater for hearty eaters. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (6-15Lv). PJLGS food in a functional but smart setting. Feast on salads, Bulgarian stews, pizzas and more. QOpen 08:30 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. S Rimini C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 40. Cheap canteen-style Butchers C-5, ul. Sheynovo 4A, tel. 0887 104 378. Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Head to the top floor of this covered market to find an array of counters serving sandwiches, pizza slices, basic grills, and Chinese noodles. There is no quicker and easier way of stuffing your face. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PG the location on trendy Shishman street means that it’s the perfect place for a bite to eat after shopping for frocks - or before hitting the downtown bars. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (7-15Lv). PTJA6GW ingly hip modern European restaurant with minimalist décor, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a refined range of food strong on pasta, fish and other Mediterranean flavours. The impressive international wine list is another big draw. QOpen 09:30 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (15-20Lv). PJ This place does indeed look like a butchers’ shop at first glance, with a bloke in an apron standing behind a counter stocked with Spanish hams, Mediterranean delicatessen goodies and fine wines. Behind the counter a privatelooking passageway leads through to a back room filled with distressed furniture and bohemian-looking wine-quaffing patrons. The menu is composed of whatever the chef feels like cooking that day: expect gourmet cold meats, exquisite quiches, and other Franco-Hispanic treats. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (5-12Lv). Da Vidi C-3, ul. Han Asparuh 36, tel. 980 67 46. Ach- Cactus C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 20, tel. 986 74 31, www.restaurant-cactus.com. Despite the distinct lack of desert-based dishes on the menu, Cactus earned our seal of approval with its mainstream European mix of well-prepared steaks, chicken dishes and pan-fried fish. Low-key lighting and solid wooden furnishings give the place a relaxing pub-like feel, and there’s additional seating in a bright covered yard out the back. Good-value all-you-can-eat buffet on Sunday lunchtimes. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00 & 17:00-23:00. (6-12Lv). PJA Comercial C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 27, tel. 0897 931 291/0899 845 085. Modern European cuisine in a modern European setting: think whitewashed walls, moody lighting, minimal furnishings and comfy cushioned benches. The fresh pasta is very good, but main courses are a bit more hit-andmiss - let’s just say that the duck with orange sauce will get to your taste buds more quickly than their not-quite-thereyet attempt at British-style fish and chips. Oh, and portions are on the small side too. However service is excellent and Checkpoint Charly C-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 12, tel. 988 03 70, check_charly@abv.bg. With pictures of cold-war Berlin on the walls, and photocopies of Rabotnichesko delo (Bulgaria’s communist-era daily newspaper) used as place-mats, you’d be forgiven for thinking that this was just another ironic post-communist theme bar. It’s actually a great restaurant, offering superbly prepared chicken, duck and steak dishes, and some delicious vegetarian concoctions on the starter menu. There’s live jazz at the weekends, and few diners leave here disappointed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (15-25Lv). PJAEGW Kushtata s chasovnika B-4, ul. Moskovska 15, tel. 932 75 95, reservations@clockhousebg.com, www. clockhousebg.com. Occupying the ground floor of a historic nineteenth-century home (which does indeed have a clock tower), the “House with the Clock” is probably the most el- Sofia In Your Pocket restaurants egant place you’re likely to eat in downtown Sofia. Expensive china, liveried wait-staff and an ambitious haute-cuisine menu have made the place popular with Bulgarian celebrities and the foreign business community - you won’t get in here clad in jeans unless you wear them like a supermodel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-25Lv). PAL 29 Out of town Boyansko hanche H-6, pl. Sborishte, Boyana, tel. 856 30 16, fax 955 04 61. Situated in the heart of the mountainside suburb of Boyana, not far from the historic Boyana Church, Boyansko hanche is a long-standing favourite among visitors, probably because it’s one of the handful of places in the capital where you can enjoy a reasonably authentic programme of folk songs and dances. Performances usually start at 9pm but not necessarily on every night of the week - so phone beforehand if you’re going specifically because of the music. The menu of traditional Bulgarian fare with international-looking steaks doesn’t pull too many surprises, but doesn’t inspire many complaints either. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-15Lv). PTRILEB Chepishev H-6, ul. Ivanitsa Danchev 27, Boyana, tel. 959 10 10, chepishev@netissat.bg, www. chepishev.com. Consistentl y good food and noexpense-spared interior design have helped make Chepishev one of the city’s landmark restaurants. Traditional-style fireplaces and natural materials such as stone, wood and wrought iron lend an air of cosiness and originality to the main dining room. There’s a panoramic summer terrace too, although proximity to the road detracts slightly from the desired romantic effect. The menu changes frequently, but always includes a choice of traditional Bulgarian dishes based on old family recipes, and a well-chosen selection of modern European fare. The home-made bread is a must. The wine list is one of the best in the city, and the restaurant famously claims to possess the biggest whisky collection in Eastern Europe - with over 800 brands listed, we’re not going to argue. QOpen 12:30 - 01:00. (5-15Lv). PALE Mahaloto C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 51, tel. 0887 617 972. An attractively renovated brick cellar with soft lighting and either jazzy tootling or French chansons emanating from the CD player, this is one of central Sofia’s most pleasant locations for a relaxing evening meal. There’s a familiar range of Bulgarian grilled meats (the lyuti kyufteta or spicy rissoles make for a particularly fiery starter), alongside Balkan specialities such as dzholan (roast shin of pork). More cosmopolitan mains include an excellent pepper steak, tarragon chicken, a delicately pan-fried trout with walnuts, and plenty more. Good wine list too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-14Lv). PA Hidden in the courtyard in what looks like a cosy garden shed is this very suave and comfortable eatery specializing in southern European cuisine (let’s just say that you’re more likely to get rocket salad here than a bowl of shopska). There’s a generous choice of pastas, veal-cutlet dishes and fish on the menu, backed up by an attractive range of desserts. Also, it’s one of the rare restaurants in Sofia where they automatically put a bottle of real olive oil on the table. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8-16Lv). PJAEGBSW couple of kilometres southeast of the centre, Moderato is worth the trip if you want to savour some of the best pasta in Sofia, and a top-quality choice of (predominantly Mediterranean) chicken and fish courses. The second floor seems to be the better choice in terms of interior - light colours, enough space between the tables and relaxing atmosphere. The service was so attentive that it was difficult to prize the wait-staff away from our table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (1220Lv). PALS Mediterraneo B-5, ul. Oborishte 9B, tel. 944 95 82. Moderato G-8, ul. Atanas Dalchev 6, tel. 970 01 11. A Otvud aleyata zad shkafa A-3, ul. Budapeshta 31, tel. 983 55 45, www.beyond-the-alley.com. If we were to give prizes for atmosphere, this restaurant would be the undisputable winner. The eccentric name (which literally means “beyond the alley, behind the cupboard”) is indicative of the place’s quirky nature: the combination of art-nouveau interior design and friendly informal service has made Otvud a firm favourite with Sofia’s artistic elite. The menu is sometimes a touch over-imaginative for its own good, and you’re advised to stick to mainstream meat and fish dishes if you want to get the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-20Lv). PA Lebed ul. Samokovsko shose 83, Pancharevo, tel. 992 30 45, fax 992 34 65, info@restaurantlebed. com, www.restaurantlebed.com. Five kilometers south of the Coral Swimming Complex, Lebed (“The Swan”) was opened in 1961 as part of the preparations for that year’s World Student Games, and has enjoyed near-legendary status ever since. Once the place where Bulgaria’s top pop stars used to entertain diners, it fell into decline until recent refurbishments provided the old bird with a new lease of culinary life. The menu (providing you can negotiate your way through the spelling mistakes) features a lot of seafood and freshwater fish, although prices are on the steep side and staff are not noted for their speed of service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGB tel. 967 10 58, fax 967 50 07, info@vodenizata. com. Housed in an old mill near the Dragalevtsi chairlift, Vodenitsata is one of those restaurants that’s a destination in its own right. The stone clad interior is crammed with folksy ornamentation, and the cuisine consists of superbly prepared and presented Bulgarian classics. The breezy garden, complete with water features, turtles and fish, is a great place to rest while away a hot summer afternoon. Every night a folklore ensemble provides a thrilling repertoire of traditional songs and dances, occasionally featuring nestinari dancing on live coals - don’t try and join in no matter how many rakiyas you’ve had. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-20Lv). ALEB Seasons D-2, Hilton, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 933 50 62. As Vodenitzata Dragalevtsi (next to the chairlift), you’d expect from an expensive restaurant in an international hotel chain, standards here are consistently high. The modern European cuisine is as well prepared as they come, the service is flawless, and the setting strikes the right balance between comfort and elegance. QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. (20-30Lv). PAL Trikrakoto pile B-2, ul. Denkoglu 3, tel. 986 26 53. Situated on a quiet street not far from the bustle of bul. Vitosha, this tightly packed suite of rooms with no-nonsense wooden furniture is a relaxing and informal venue for lunch or dinner with friends. The name means ‘three-legged chicken’ which explains the strong presence of chicken dishes on the menu. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (6-12Lv). P October - December 2008 30 restaurants Troyanzite B-5, ul. Shipka 46, tel. 944 19 34, www. troyanzite.com. Relaxing restaurant on two storeys with soothing creamy-brown décor and eager-to-please staff. An international menu of steaks, grilled chicken and freshwater fish dishes is augmented by a well-chosen selection of Bulgarian specialities - the dzholan (leg of beef baked in a pot) and grilled buffalo meat balls are hard to fault. Vegetarians should opt for the zapekanka (tasty cheese and spinach bake). QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (5-12Lv). PJAGBW Uno Enoteca C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 45, tel. 981 43 72, unosofia@bgnet.bg, www.uno-sofia.com. Modern European cuisine of the highest order, served in elegant surroundings and backed up by a truly international selection of quality wines. With irreproachable standards of service and a conveniently central location, this ranks as one of the best restaurants in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. (12-20Lv). PALE Vishnite D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski 45, tel. 963 49 84. This tiny, four-table restaurant in a residential area just south of the centre is a firm favourite with Bulgarians who know a thing or two about food, so it’s wise to book before heading out. Expect flawless service, elegantlylaid tables piled with classy cutlery and glassware, and a small but well-chosen menu of modern European dishes, prepared with flair and imagination. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12-25Lv). PA Zhadnata lamya D-3, ul. 13-ti mart 2, tel. 964 06 40. The name means “Thirsty Dragon”, which we took as an immediate invitation to down several flagons of the excellent Czech Starobrno beer which is served on tap here. The food is a competent mixture of Bulgarian and central European meat dishes, but the real pleasure of dining here comes from the friendly service and homely décor (note the fabulously eccentric picture gallery lining the walls), all of which adds up to a highly enjoyable atmosphere. Some of the Mexican-looking dishes on the menu are a bit disappointing, so its best to stick to the mainstream meat offerings and the Bulgarian salads. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6-24Lv). PB and cuts of veal come highly recommended too. Desserts are delicious, and the espresso is so good that it might seriously put you off ever drinking coffee anywhere else again. It’s a small place with only 6 tables so it makes sense to reserve in advance. Oh, and it’s one of the few restaurants in Sofia that puts fresh-cut flowers on the tables instead of plastic ones. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (16-40Lv). PJAGS Pastarito E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 866 77 80, pastarito@abv.bg. The newly opened Bulgarian branch of an established Italian chain offers an appetizing selection of mediterranean salads and veal- and chicken-based main courses, although the real star is the pasta itself - which comes in all shapes and sizes and in a range of sauces. The no-smoking section is roomy and well-segregated, and a credible choice of Italian wines adds a note of quality. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (5-15Lv). PA Pastorant B-2, ul. Tsar Asen 16, tel. 981 44 82. If you want classic pasta dishes prepared with knowledge and care then you can’t go far wrong with this place. Accommodated in a cosy pair of rooms decorated in creams and earthy greens, it’s run by a friendly and informal team who make you feel at home. The workmanlike Spaghetti Bolognese may not have been much of an improvement on what we can cook at home, but everything else we tried here was perfection on a plate. Be sure to leave room for the sweets. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6-8Lv). PJAGW Italian Alga B-2, ul. Lavele 11, tel. 980 24 89/0888 81 19 80, alga@abv.bg, www.alga.free.bg. Somewhat hidden behind the BulBank building at the bottom of Vitosha Boulevard, this cute little Italian restaurant is well worth a visit. It’s run by Georgio & Russistza, a man and wife team and their Sardinian chef. They will give you a very homely reception before you tuck into the complimentary olive pesto and homemade bread. There are only 20 seats, so booking is highly advised. The restaurant has a very romantic air and would be a lovely place for a special occasion. The food is really good and the service is excellent. They have a fantastic wine list to go with the simple yet exciting menu. There is a garden for the summer months which quickly removes you from the downtown hassle. All in all, a lovely place and well worth a visit. Prices are slightly above average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8-12Lv). PJALBS Gioia B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 60, tel. 986 08 54, festaitaliana@abv.bg. This cosy, intimate, Italian-owned place tucked away behind the Bulbank building is one of Bulgaria’s best-kept culinary secrets. Gioia is justifiably proud of its fresh pasta (follow the waiter’s recommendations of what to choose and which sauce to eat it with and you won’t be disappointed), although the seafood dishes Japanese Bauchar 100, tel. 969 24 20. This altogether rather charming place is located in a pavilion in the garden of the Kempinski hotel, approached over the kind of bridge that you usually see adorning a set of willow-pattern crockery. Paper partitions, low tables (you can kneel on cushions or sit on a stepped depression under the table) and nimble waitresses swishing around in kimonos help to set the mood. Assuming that you don’t’ have the time to fly to Tokyo and dine out there, the impressive range of sushi and main courses is authentic enough. A full meal with sake will set you back a small fortune by Sofia standards, but for a great evening out with a difference, it’s money well spent. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (15Lv). PAL Sakura G-7, Kempinski Hotel Zografski, bul. Dzheims Sofia In Your Pocket restaurants Standby E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 964 30 14. A combination of lounge-bar décor, good sushi and an all-round menu of alcoholic drinks helps to make Standby one of the hipper places to refuel in this part of town. Most distinctive feature, and one that keeps people coming back, is the long curving window lined with cube-shaped stools, from which diners and drinkers can enjoy a panoramic view of the comings and goings on the busy crossroads below. QOpen 10:30 - 02:00. (10-15Lv). PJA Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Denkoglu 18, tel. 981 84 42. Conveniently situated just round the corner from the fashionable shops of bul. Vitosha, this smart but affordable oriental eatery offers a lengthy menu of different types of sushi, all excellently prepared and accompanied with portions of fresh ginger and wasabe paste. Ordering a set menu will allow you to sample a broad range of what they offer. Noodle soups and teriyaki dishes also available. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30. (10Lv). PA 31 Wine, beer, rakia or boza… what to drink in Bulgaria Bulgaria has some typical drinks which can be found only here, and some that have a similar (but not the same) equivalent abroad. If you come to Bulgaria, we recommend you to try some of these: Alcoholic drinks: • Bulgarian wine, which is exported to many European countries. It is very tasty, with various sorts, some of which are typical only for this region. We recommend Mavrud (this sort of wine cannot be found anywhere else) – a strong dark wine, suitable for red meat and cold winter evenings. Despite the good quality, Bulgarian wine is not expensive and is very appropriate for a present from a holiday in Bulgaria. • Bulgarian beer: many regions have their local beers, most of them with a typical genuine taste, so we suggest you choose from: Blagoevgrad Strumsko pivo Burgas Burgasko pivo, Slavena Lom Almus, Shopsko, Sofia Mezdra Ledenika, MM, Varna, Haberman Pleven Storgozia, Ataman, Pleven Plovdiv Kamenitsa (Light, Extra, Dark, Red and Soft), Astika Shumen Pirinsko, Shumensko Sofia Kmetsko (Light, Wheat, Red, Dark) Stara Zagora Zagorka, Ariana, Stolichno Veliko Tarnovo Nashensko, Balkan, Bolyarka • Rakia is often compared to brandy or tequila, but its not like anything else. Usually most Bulgarians drink it in the evening, before or during the meal, accompanied by salad or pickles. It SHOULDN’T be drunk like tequila, but slowly, sipping, with delight. Most common types are grape and plum rakia. We recommend you also try the fig and pear rakia, if you have the chance, which is unusually aromatic. • Almond liquer (which is slightly similar to amaretto, but different). It is quite sweet and is recommended unlimited consumption; however reasonable drinking is extremely pleasant. • Mastika (similar to ouzo and absinthe, but should be drunk in a different manner: either with ayran or tarator (see Bulgarian food section), or with mint liqueur (VERY good cocktail for sea evenings, however very strong and can be dangerous for inexperienced drinkers. Actually it doesn’t give you a feeling that you’re getting drunk; you just suddenly realize that this is a fact.) This drink contains anise and has a sweet flavour. Soft drinks: • Boza (actually with Turkish origin, but the Bulgarians drink it for so many years that it can be considered local). It is prepared from fermented wheat or millet. Its colour is beige and its taste is sweet-sour taste (some foreigners find it quite peculiar). • Bulgarian yogurt (this is different from any other yogurt; people have tried to export the world famous lactobacillus bulgaricus (named so because it was discovered in Bulgaria); the result was a different taste.) • Ayran (traditional local drink prepared from yogurt, salt, water, sometimes pepper). This is a very refreshing drink good both for heat and chill. Lebanese Tazka D-3, ul. Krastyo Sarafov 45, tel. 963 00 52. We took both a vegetarian and a carnivore to this smart and friendly suburban restaurant and both came away very happy indeed. The animal lover feasted on starters like houmous, baba ganouj (delicately spiced aubergine and tomato salad) and fatayer (spinach pies), while her companion’s bloodlust was more than satiated by the fatteh (chicken, chick peas and herbs covered in yoghurt). The arak (an aniseed-flavoured spirit which, like Turkish raki, turns cloudy when you add water) went down very well indeed. Live music and belly dancing pulls in the crowds at weekends, so be sure to book ahead. QOpen 11:00 01:00. (8-12Lv). PEG Moroccan Annette C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 27, tel. 980 40 98, info@annette.bg, www.annette.bg. A combination of North African music, flickering candlelight and star-shaped lanterns should lull you into the perfect frame of mind to enjoy a reasonably authentic Moroccan menu, which takes in tajini, couscous and some lush healthy salads. Finish off with Moroccan mint tea with cedar nuts, or a lengthy puff on the narghile. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4-16Lv). PJGBSW Pizza Classic B-3, ul. Serdika 14, tel. 0878 656 401, classicpizza1@abv.bg, www.pizzabg@com. Classic’s simple recipe of ser ving up palatable pizzas, freshlymade salads and a well-chosen handful of Bulgarian and European dishes in a designer-apartment environment has alread y proved a hi t wi th locals who don’t want the cuisine to be much of a challenge but still expect a bit of finesse as far as service and presentation are concerned. Reasonable prices, friendly service and dependable standards. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-12Lv). PJA6GBW Krivoto D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, in subway of NDK, tel. 0885 878 485, krivoto1@abv.bg. The newest pizzeria of Krivoto chain is located in key position, exactly in the subway of NDK. Here you can enjoy of lovely music and good food. In the menu there is a rich choice of pasta, pizza as well as main courses. The staff are polite, smiling and observe the rules of Krivoto chain. The people who visit October - December 2008 32 restaurants this restaurant are famous, young or do business. The pizzeria has outside seating for 50 and inside seating for 150. The interior is quite simple and clean out. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. pizza ( 4-8Lv), pasta (6-7Lv), main courses (6-18Lv). PJAG 71 88 77, cgs@abv.bg, www.pizza-monami.com. The main saloon for 50 is arranged with wooden tables and bench like seating. The garden area for 70 has some greenery, fountain and big sunshades. The seating is also from dark wood. There is a barbeque with show kitchen. They serve pizza and international dishes. Try the sach (vegetables or meat roasted on hot plate) or the Veal Oso Buko specialty. No English menus and the staff have limited English. The kitchen is quite good though and the atmosphere is pleasant. Order using sign language or use decoding the menu section on p… QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (5-16Lv). PABS oshipka.net, www.oshipka.net. Rich and varied choice of pizzas and salads with a few grilled meats and Mexican dishes ballasting out the menu. Reasonably pleasant staff, fun surroundings, and a satisfyingly tangy lasagne that had us coming back a second time. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (510Lv). PAEGS Mon Ami Hipodruma, ul. Bulair 1, tel. 850 60 60/0888 Russian Moskva B-3, ul. Lege 2, tel. 980 24 24/0896 860 340, moskva_@abv.bg, www.moskva.bg. This is the sort of place which will make you feel totally decadent almost as soon as you walk in to be welcomed by a crimson carpet, cherry curtains, elegant staff and live music being played on a grand piano with violin accompaniment. The music, posh surroundings, first-class service, and excellent food all combine to create an atmosphere that will transport you back in time to imperial Tsarist Russia. You are only to be reminded of the present by the latest bathroom technology and a waiter hinting the tip is not included in the bill. Expensive, but not excessively so, and although some of the wine costs far more than a main course your “nazdrave” will produce a dull sound, definitely not the cling of crystal glasses. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (6-35Lv). PE O! Shipka B-5, ul. Shipka 11, tel. 944 92 88, oshipka@ Piccola Venezia B-4, ul. Georgi Benkovski 12A, tel. 989 03 02. One of the oldest decent sit-down pizzerias in Sofia and still holding its own despite increasing competition. Satisfactory pizzas. They also do a mean pepper steak. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6-10Lv). A Pizza Hut C-4, ul. Gurko 62, tel. 986 67 17, contacts@ pizzahut.bg, www.pizzahut.bg. A good choice of both Italian and American-style pizzas, served up in a bright family-friendly environment. Prices are slightly higher than average, but that’s probably justified by the use of a wider range of high-quality ingredients than in some other Sofia pizzerias. Our Quattro Stagioni certainly seemed to come laden with four seasons’-worth of foodstuffs (which in this city is something of a first). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (710Lv). PTAS Ugo C-2, bul. Vitosha 45, tel. 988 18 92, ugo_@abv.bg, ugo.bg. With matt black tables illuminated from designer lampshades this is as groovy a place to tuck into pizzas as you’ll find in Sofia. The pies themselves aren’t any better than elsewhere though: they might have Italian names but that’s as near to the Mediterranean as it gets. Huge salads provide lots of veggie options. Other branches at C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68; and C-3, ul. Han Krum 2. 24 hr home deliveries at 986 40 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (5-7Lv). PAGW Victoria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 986 32 00, www.victoria.bg. This is many people’s favourite pizzeria in Sofia due to its generously proportioned pizzas and reasonably high standards (the dough tastes sort-of Italian even if the toppings don’t). Soups, pastas and grilled Bulgarian staples help to fill out the menu. Tends to get crowded, and you might have to wait for a table. Also at G-8 ul. Ivan Asen II 66. City-wide deliveries on tel. 911 00 and tel. 0887 911 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (6-8Lv). PA 74. An unpretentious doorway on a quiet residential street leads through to this cosy little place where you’ll be soothed by friendly service and lilting Russian melodies emanating from the CD player. Embark on a round of vodkas accompanied by selyodka (marinated fish) before moving on to the gorgeous, home-made pelmeni (meat-filled dumplings). Whether you have any space left for classic Russian dishes like Beef Stroganoff or the excellent range of sweets is up to you. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-15Lv). AGBS 65. This is one of those warm and intimate places where you feel as if you are dining in someone’s living room while a family friend busies themselves in the kitchen. Sashed velvet curtains and curious murals of balloons in flight provide added atmosphere. The menu is European-meets-Bulgarian with a healthy number of Russian favourites thrown in: a round of vodka with marinated herrings on toast is the obligatory way to kick off the evening. The pelmeni are excellent too. Recommended main courses include Chicken Kiev and Moscow Cutlets (cheese and ham wrapped in pork then breadcrumbed), although there’s a lot more besides. Mains are served with an optional variety of weird and wonderful sauces (including a delicious green sauce flavoured with spinach and basil). QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (8-26Lv). JGBS Ruski klub E-3, ul. Lozenska planina 22, tel. 866 50 Vagabond G-8, ul. Svetoslav Terter 5, tel. 944 14 Sofia In Your Pocket restaurants Seafood Captain Cook C-1, bul. Pencho Slaveykov 12-14, tel. 954 90 98, w w w.captaincook.bg. Fish dishes in Sofia’s mainstream restaurants generally leave a lot to be desired, so i t’s nice to have specialist places like Captain Cook’s around. I t’s in a slightl y ou t-of-the-way location, bu t the delicious range of grilled and panfried fish - both fresh- and sal twater vari ties - should make the trip wor thwhile. Fish is priced by the 100g - so don’t rush to order until you’ve inspected what’s available in the chiller cabinet and asked a member of staff to plonk i t on the scales. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (9-30Lv). AG ian joint. Ajvar (a relish made from aubergines and hot peppers) makes the ideal accompaniment, and there’s an irresistible range of fier y plum brandies to wash it all down with. Both service and atmosphere are classy, and an extra personal touch is provided by chef and owner Miro himself, who likes to circulate among diners to see who is enjoying what. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-12Lv). PLGBS 33 Vegetarian Dream House B-3, ul. Alabin 50A, tel. 980 81 63, dreamhouse_bg@yahoo.com, www.dreamhouse-bg. com. This bright and cheery first-floor restaurant is initially a bit difficult to find: once you’ve entered the small shopping mall at ul. Alabin 50 you need to pass through the white door on your left and proceed up the murky stairwell. Dishes range from a deliciously delicate bamboo soup to savoury spinach balls, and tofu in various sauces. Flavours are on the bland side - our biryani needed a jug-full of chilli sauce to help it go down. On Sunday afternoons there’s an all-you-can-eat buffet for 7 leva. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (7Lv). PAGW kibea.net. There’s always at least one meat dish on the menu at this upmarket healthfood restaurant, but its the exquisitely prepared vegan and macrobiotic dishes that get top billing. The cool minimalism of the interior provides the perfect environment in which to focus on the classy concoctions which have made head chef Elliot Prag something of a local celebrity. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (7-40Lv). PAG Tambuktu B-4, ul. Aksakov 10, tel. 988 12 34, info@ tambuktu.com, www.tambuktu.com. A concrete firstfloor cabin stuffed with palm trees and fish tanks, this is a flamboyantly kitsch setting in which to enjoy good-quality fish and seafood. The food is prepared before the customers and they can choose the fish from a special window display. The service is adequate and helpful. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-30Lv). PAW Serbian restaurantmiro.com. Both Serbia and Bulgaria share a similar culinar y reper toire of grilled meats - it’s just that the Serbians do it with more style. The cevapcici (grilled meat rissoles) and pleskavice (minced meat patties) on offer at Miro’s are infinitely more succulent and spicy than any thing you’ll find in a traditional Bulgar- Kibea C-3, ul. Dr. G. Valkovich 2A, tel. 980 30 67, www. Pri Miro G-8, ul. Murphy 34, tel. 943 71 27, www. October - December 2008 34 CafÉs Art Club Museum B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 980 66 64, museum2006@abv.bg. Hidden away in a semi-submerged arcaded annexe of the archaeological museum, this is the ideal place to take a breather between bouts of sightseeing. Alongside coffee and cakes there’s a full menu of salads, snacks and alcoholic drinks, making it a good spot for a leisurely lunch. Don’t leave without taking a look at the downstairs no-smoking area - with comfy chairs positioned beside artfully-lit Roman gravestones, it looks like a cross between a lounge club and a recently excavated tomb (although whether any wait-staff ever make it down here is another question). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PABW 88, beforeandafter@abv.bg, ba.club-cabaret.net. With squiggly art-nouveau-ish wall decorations, and bentwood furniture that wouldn’t look out of place in nineteenth-century Paris, this place seems a world away from central Sofia. Expect coffee strong enough to give an elephant a heart attack, luxuriant hot chocolate, and an appetizing range of salads and snacks. The place is frequently taken over by tango lessons in the evening, which helps explain the alluring photographs of buttock-waggling bipeds adorning the walls. QOpen 10:00 24:00. (3.50 - 7.00Lv). PTJARLGW Laguna (Vienski salon) C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 13, tel. 980 30 01, laguna bg@abv.bg, www.laguna-bg.com. Welcoming two-tier café whose in-your-face kitsch furnishings will leave you grasping for words fit to describe them. Our editor compared this place to a mid-seventies Dr Who set, but his glamorous assistant was too busy screaming to take any notice. This is a great place to come and pig out on pancakes but not everything in the picture-book menu is quite as it seems: the non-alcoholic fruit cocktail drinks taste as if they’ve been poured straight out of a carton (but then with names like “Virgin Sex on the Beach” they seem destined to leave you unfulfilled). QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (4-10Lv). PJG www.lavazzaclub.com. Situated in downtown Sofia this place is already crowded since early in the morning. Its two floors, charming garden and young pretty waitresses obviously make it a preferred location by everybody from young couples to business people and foreigners alike. The menu list offers a big selection of coffee, cappuccino, cocktails, sandwiches and fresh pastries and creams. Yummy. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PABW coffee and juice bar that’s perfect for jump-starting your day. Ciabatta sandwiches, muffins, cookies and more. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Before & After C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60 Lavazza Club B-2, bul. Vitosha 13, tel. 987 34 33, London Minute B-2, ul. Pozitano 7. International-styled Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 4, tel. 988 53 07. Taking up most of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel Bulgaria, this is a comfortable and rather stately place in which to overdose on caffeine and sweets. Slightly more expensive than average, but well worth bearing in mind if you’re planning a posh city-centre rendezvous. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. PTJAR Luciano (Vienska sladkarnitsa) B-4, ul. Moskovska Café del Mar C-5, ul. Tsar Ivan Asen II 15, tel. 0897 401 301. Calm, relaxing place with only four tables, situated on a cobbled street which keeps alive the old spirit of Sofia. The light colours and comfortable furniture combined with pleasant chill-out music build up a gratifying setting for a cup of coffee or a cocktail. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Coffee House B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1, tel. 986 66 12. Modern-style coffee-shop with a decent line in drinkin or takeaway espressos, lattes, mochas and the rest. Mouth-watering cakes and freshly-made sandwiches are superior to the standardised fare on offer at some of Sofia’s other high-street coffee shops. Vivid comic-book murals by graphic artist Yasen Zgurovski give the Coffee House an absolutely unique, Garden-of-Eden vibe. QOpen 07:30 20:00. PJBW Dani’s C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel. 987 45 48. Cosy street-corner deli-cafe with homely interior. Perch on one of the high bar stools and munch your way through a healthy and filling menu of soups and sandwiches. The homemade lemonade is well worth a guzzle, too. A touch expensive by Bulgarian standards, but can’t really be faulted in the quality stakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (4.50-16.50Lv). JGBW culture@gmail.com, www.fixmix-culture.com. City-centre juice bar boasting over 30 different fresh-fruit concoctions. Drinks with names such as Berry White, Macy Grapefruit and Tangerine Cream should appeal to the music obsessives among you. The interior is as fresh and funky as the drinks, with citrus colours predominating, and a mixture of house and break-beat music provide a suitable snazzy soundtrack. You can choose to rotate on one of the silver swivel-stools at ground level or flop in one of the sofas situated on a raised platform. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PJGSW 29, tel. 981 97 77. Decent coffee and sweets within cakecrumb throwing distance of the Aleksandur Nevski church. Semicircular black sofas and plastic flower displays give the place a kitschy elegance that we rather like. Also boasts the most brusque and unwelcoming wait-staff that we’ve ever encountered in Sofia or anywhere else, which somehow adds to the off-beat, Twin-Peaks charm of the place. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PJG Lucky (Vienska sladkarnitsa) C-5, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 21, tel. 943 33 44. Bright, roomy and rather elegant café with a generous choice of fancy cakes and other sinful goodies. Floor-to-ceiling windows make this a good vantage point from which to observe the traffic pulsing across the Orlov most bridge. Waitresses dressed in fetching Bulgaro-Tyrolean dirndls help to complete the picture. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. PJA Onda B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 8A, tel. 987 49 20. Sofia’s only western-style coffee bar is a bright, comfortable and really quite groovy place offering order-at-the-counter lattes, macchiatos, muffins, cookies, and other comfortingly familiar concoctions. Surprisingly for Bulgaria, the sandwiches in the chiller cabinet are actually edible. The upstairs lounge comes with a great view of the Russian Church and its pimply bouquet of domes. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. (5-10Lv). PJGW place directly across from the NDK, off Vitosha Boulevard. One of, if not the, finest gardens in Sofia. Beautifully enclosed just off the boulevard, the garden was designed by the owner and she has created a real beauty. Wooden 2 seater swing, a couple of trees, plenty of sundry flora and greenery augment the directors chairs and sofas. It’s a beautiful sun trap too with some great shade. They knock up a great Mojito, amongst other cocktails, and they do a really top coffee. The garden seats about 40. The bar inside is a lovely little place. It seats about 20 and has a real coffee house atmosphere with bookshelves on the walls. Great wooden floor. The locals will greet guests with open arms, and much fun has apparently been had down The Bookies. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. JBW The Bookies C-1, ul. Dospat 37, tel. 851 90 87. Great little Fix Mix C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 24, tel. 987 31 71, fixmix. Sofia In Your Pocket 36 nightlife Sofia is simply swarming with quirky watering holes, cool designer bars and dance-till-you-disintegrate clubs. Just try not to get carried away. Bars Adams Bar A-5, ul. Vrabcha 28. This is a small heavy metal pub in the centre of the capital. The heavy sound of thrash, death and black metal makes the stay there a real feast for the connoisseurs. Friendly stuff, extensive variety of cold beer, foosball and darts guarantee the great mood of the guests. Usually between 20 and 22h it gets quite overcrowded. Adams restaurant B-2, Tsar Samuil 103 (The corner of ul. Pirotska ). This is a bar-restaurant with heavy metal music. Its location is very central - in the middle of Pirotska street market. The cuisine is very good, especially Tripe in butter. The atmosphere is friendly and cozy and food and beverages are not expensive. Just the opposite of luxurious. Apartament 52 C-3, ul. Parchevich 52, tel. 0896 652 087. Sinking into the comfy corner sofas of this lounge bar is a pleasant way to end a hard day pacing the mean streets of central Sofia, although there never seems quite enough going on here to keep you for more than a couple of drinks. A good place to kick-start the evening before moving on elsewhere. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JAGBW Bilkovata C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 986 49 05. Hardly anyone remembers the herbal pharmacy which once stood here (Bilkovata means “The Herbal”), but the basement bar on this spot is one of the most frequented places in Sofia. It’s sparsely furnished, smoky, and overcrowded at weekends, but a combination of off-the-wall background music and gregarious drinkers lurching around help make it one of those cult Sofia locations that you have to visit at least once. Recently renovated QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJBW Blaze C-4, ul. Slavyanska 36, tel. 0888 354 004. This brash, tight squeeze of a DJ bar has been around for years and never seems to be in danger of going out of fashion. If you are dying to meet young trendy locals then you’re in the right place here. Getting a drink at weekends can require superhuman patience, and the wait for the toilet is sometimes so long that you’re on first-name terms with everyone else in the queue by the time you finally enter the porcelain sanctuary. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PW bytheway@faria.bg. If you really care about the quality of your cocktails then this split-level bar is the place to come. The setting is stylish and cosy, and the high proportion of beautiful young things among the clientele makes it the perfect place for people-watching. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAW Apartment C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 68, tel. 0886 655 093. There’s nowhere else quite like this spacious, high-ceilinged nineteenth-century flat, each room of which is decked out with the kind of artworks and furnishings that you’d expect to find in the home of a slightly wacky friend. There’s an internet terminal in one lounge, play-your-own-vinyl DJ decks in another, and a space devoted to film projections too. If you want a drink, head for the kitchen to see who’s in charge of the fridge. There’s usually some form of exotic daytime snack food on offer: recent choices have included houmous with pitta bread, and platters of sushi. Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate desserts. QOpen 12:00 02:00. JGBW Barabar B-5, ul. Shipka 43A, tel. 0888 325 304. This small but perfectly formed café-bar may well be a 15-minute walk east of the centre, but its cosy-living-room atmosphere makes it well worth seeking out. The vintage Bulgarian film posters on the walls make a great change from the beer adverts and commercial logos cluttering up other establishments of this ilk. The Bulgarian-Scottish bar crew serve up excellent toasted sandwiches too. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. coming array of deep white sofas will lure you into this stylish little spot just off ul. Rakovski - just make sure you don’t end up squatting on one of the cube-sized pouffes otherwise you’ll have backache come the morning. There’s an appetizingly wide range of cocktails and spirit shots, and the designer toilet is cool enough for even the sassiest of supermodels to feel proud to drop their pants in. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. AP By The Way C-3, ul. Rakovski 166, tel. 980 38 36, Basic C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. 986 36 72. The wel- Cappuccino bar & dinner B-2, ul. Pozitano 8, tel. 0896 645 362, www.barcappuccino.net. Despite its short life, Cappuccino seems destined to become one of the most crowded new additions to Sofia. Preferred for business lunches, dinners, parties or just for a cup of coffee or excellent cappuccino, the interior is a mixture of expensive Italian furniture with a classical combination of midnight black and crisp white, delicate lighting and enviable sound system. The long menu specializes in Italian dishes, complemented by an excellent selection of wine from all over world and a variety of cocktails, among the well-founded reasons this place will be sure to please even the most capricious visitors. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. PAGW Cargo B-3, ul. Saborna 11, tel. 986 46 46, cargo_bg@ hotmail.com. A relatively recent addition to the Sofia lounge-bar scene, offering pretty much what you would expect from the genre: moody lighting, furnishings straight out of a lifestyle magazine, and a pair of DJ decks standing proudly in the corner. The dark tones of the décor and impressive range of spirit bottles behind the bar make this an excellent place to sink into a sofa for a couple of hours. QOpen 08:30 - 05:00. PAW Casa de Cuba E-2, ul. Tsvetna gradina 1, tel. 963 22 97/0885 455 633, casa.de.cuba@gmail.com, www. casadecuba.bg. Cuban and other Latino music bursts out of every single loudspeaker this bar invested in, making it practically impossible to have a four way conversation around a small round table. The interior aims to provide an atmosphere Baskerville B-2, ul. Denkoglu 16, tel. 986 60 62. Take it easy, there are no mysterious dogs in this friendly and tastefully furnished small bar. We can imagine, though, Holmes and Watson sitting here and having tea while looking at the retro pictures hanging on the walls. Not the best place for a raucous Friday night out, perhaps, but perfect for a cosy intimate drink. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJGBW Sofia In Your Pocket nightlife of pre-Cuban revolution with hundreds of miniature B&W pictures showing the ‘hero’s’ of these days. Seats are from comfortable to the wake me up when the bar closes category. Cocktails like Mojito and Cuba Libre could be mixed to the more traditional recipes with a little more alcohol. The place is spiced up by the cigar smoke picked from the “pura menu” list. The waitresses serve at pace the 60 in- and 20 outside places. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PJABW 37 Club 703 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 23, tel. 981 97 75. With its dim lighting, wine-red walls and hypnotically revolving ceiling fans, 703 has long been one of the best spots in the centre for a relaxed, leisurely drink. Black-and-white photographs of mid-twentieth-century events and personalities add an air of class to the place, although the vintage Lucky Strike posters overlooking the non-smoking section seem to be a deliberate challenge to ex-addicts - who will probably be biting the furniture in frustration. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PJ Hambara C-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 22. Knock on the wooden doorway in an alleyway behind the Zion restaurant and you’ll be ushered into this strange candle-lit barn full of nocturnal humanoids sitting on high wooden stools. It may seem as if you’ve stumbled onto the set of a vampire movie, but the hedonistic arty set who hang out here seem friendly. For those who like a bit of culture with their alcohol, Hambara’s sporadic programme of live jazz, studio theatre and other arty happenings provides an added inducement to drop by. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. Chillout Bar & Diner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02 03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. A large lofty space with matt black walls, slender silver pillars and softcushion sofas, Chillout’s new city-centre venture looks like an inviting cross between medieval khan’s reception chamber and twenty-first century living room. With the same menu as its sister bar on ul. Baba Nedelya, Chillout is a good spot for downtown lunch, although it’s the prospect of evenings spent gurgling one’s way through the cocktail list that holds out most promise. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PAW Chillout Lounge D-6, ul. Baba Nedelya 6, tel. 953 35 04, club@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. Drinking in Chillout’s black, red and blue interior is a bit like living inside an abstract painting. The place certainly lives up to its name, however, thanks to the moody sounds emanating from the CD player and the laid back, glamorous-without-puttingtoo-much-effort-into-it clientele. The drinks menu includes some potent and inexpensive cocktails, and food (including toasted sandwiches and savoury wraps) is served until about 10pm - at which hour DJs turn up and start upping the tempo. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PJABW 265. Chocolate is an accurate description of the dominant colour scheme, although the grassy fabrics and ethnic wall decorations made us think we were in a beach bar somewhere in the South Pacific. Pounding music, a drinks menu several pages long, and a stylish clientele help to make this a worthwhile inclusion on any downtown bar crawl. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. P Memories C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 66, tel. 952 62 50. One of the few bars in Sofia with over 10 years of history. The interior resembles an old English pub. Believe it or not the bar opens in the morning so it’s a good place for coffee or tea. In the evening, especially during summer nights, it’s quite difficult to get a table as the place is perpetually full with young crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJBW hotmail.com, www.motto-bg.com.. The red-brick walls, comfy sofas and designer lampshades of this roomy bar and diner attain just the right mixture of snazziness and comfort. There’s a huge menu of cocktails and spirits, and a selection of light dishes if you’re hungry. The service lags, especially when the place fills up with Sofia’s fashionable set, but then you’ll never be short of beautiful people to look at. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAW Motto B-4, ul. Aksakov 18, tel. 987 27 23, motto_bg@ Nero E-1, bul. Vitosha 180, tel. 953 10 01, fax 952 Chocolate C-3, ul. Rakovski 193, tel. 0896 624 04 39, nero@nerosofia.com, www.nerosofia.com. The über-cool black and white interior looks a bit cold and unwelcoming at first sight, but once you’ve settled into your designer chair you’ll find this place as comfy and relaxing as style bars come. It’s certainly the only place in Sofia that has a huge vinyl-upholstered foot inside the door. The food menu includes some excellent pastas and risottos, although portions are on the teeny side. QOpen 09:00 01:00. PALBW mail.bg, www.opera-bg.info. This classy designer bar in the basement of the National Opera is well worth looking in on at the weekends, when DJs spin plastic and revellers flock round the bar. At other times it looks like a furniture showroom, with rigid lines of fancy chairs and couches and not many people sitting in them. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAW Mediterrani C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 37, tel. 0897 931 291. We’re not sure what they have to do with the Mediterranean, but the combination of whitewashed walls, black couches and mellow music put us in the right mood to embark on a relaxing evening of alcohol-oiled conversation. Initially a bit difficult to find: head into the courtyard of the Mamma Mia pizzeria and dive down the stairs to your immediate left. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGW Opera B-4, ul. Rakovski 113, tel. 988 21 41, opera@ October - December 2008 38 nightlife Orisha bar & dinner B-2, ul. Solunska 50, tel. 953 32 94/0886 31 88 91. This is a warm and welcoming place situated in the city center, near bul. Hristo Botev. The menu offers a wide range of cocktails from all over the world with vodka, whisky, rum, gin, tequila and champagne. Most popular of them are Bronx Perfect, Alabama Slammer, Original Singapore Sling and a favourite of the American writer, Hemmingway Special. The names of the food from the menu are long and descriptive, with exotic sounding words. Seafood and chicken dishes are predominant. The bar’s name is interesting. An Orisha (orixa) is a spirit reflecting a particular aspect of God in the belief systems of Candomble in Brazil, and Santeria and Luccumi in Cuba and Puerto Rico among others. A friendly owner as well as house and chill out music add to the cozy atmosphere. An excellent place for business meetings and private parties. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAW Tea House (Chay vav fabrikata) B-4, ul. Georgi Benkovski 11, tel. 0887 051 080. Located behind an unlikely-looking metal door (look for the sign hanging above), this combined café and art gallery is the perfect place to wind down over a brew. Yogi tea, of which innumerable varieties are available, seems to be the house favourite, although there are several beverages of a more alcoholic nature to get acquainted with too, Antique furniture and oil paintings combine with post-industrial design touches to produce a slightly distressed, bohemian vibe. There’s usually some form of non-mainstream music on the CD system (world music, jazz or similar), and an irregular programme of off-beat musical events. Indian-influenced vegetarian food makes a welcome appearance on Thursday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. round the back of the National Art Gallery and you’ll come across this curious little café-bar, occupying the cast-iron pavilion in which the mercurial Tsar Ferdinand once kept his butterflies. The cocktails aren’t that great but who cares; everything else on the menu is perfectly drinkable, the wooden chairs add a dash of Parisian-café charm, and when DJs turn up they usually spin something more interesting than Top-40 teen fodder. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. Pubs Amsterdam C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 38. A small metal club of 6 tables in a quiet street in the centre of the capital. In summer outdoor tables are also available. Varity of beers is offered at normal prices. However the menu is available only in Bulgarian, but the owner of the place (usually residing there) speaks English and enjoys communicating with the clients. If clients are hungry, they can order grill dishes, or at lunch time they can try the lunch menu (soups and cooked meals). QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. Bitburger C-3, ul. Stefan Karadzha 20, tel. 981 96 65, fax 980 87 99, bitburger@einet.bg, www.bitburgerclub. com. German-designed beer-hall with German beers on tap and a loyal clientele of German-speaking expats. It’s also popular with the rest of Sofia’s international community, not least because it’s one of the best places in town for watching big-screen sporting events. There’s a good choice of international food on offer ranging from würst (German sausage) to big juicy steaks. Weekends are traditionally live music events. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 03:00. PAE Toba&Co B-3, ul. Moskovska 6A, tel. 989 46 96. Head Flannagans B-4, Radisson SAS Hotel, pl. Narodno sabranie 4, tel. 933 47 40, flannagans.sofia@radissonsas. com. Unusually for an establishment located on the ground floor of an international hotel, Flannagans succeeds in being a lively and welcoming venue, even if the prices are a touch more expensive than elsewhere in town. The draught Guinness and Kilkenny are well-kept enough to keep you coming back, and the menu of quality pub food is better than the fare offered by many of Sofia’s “international” restaurants. Major international sporting events are given the big-screen treatment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAW Irish Harp B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 7, tel. 989 92 26, www. irish-harp.biz. Smart but slightly lived-in, and with friendly staff always ready to ask whether you need a refill, this is the kind of pub that you’ll find yourself drifting back to whether you’re eager for ex-pat chit-chat or simply in need of a relaxing drink. Murphys and Guinness on tap, and the fancy drinks and cocktails aren’t bad either. With several TV screens tuned to sports channels, this is an ideal place to catch live matches, or simply nervously await the incoming football results on Saturday afternoons. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PJALEW J. J. Murphy’s B-2, ul. Karnigradska 6, tel. 980 28 70, fax 980 08 60. Restrained lighting, lots of dark-brown wooden furniture, and a variety of environments (you can either prop up the bar, watch football on the big screen, or sit in a quiet corner) all help make this place a comfortingly familiar home-from-home. They pull a mean pint of Murphy’s, and if Bulgarian cuisine has left you pining for Sheperd’s Pie, this is the place to tuck in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PEGBW Magelan B-4, ul. Parizh 10. A very small rock pub (about 3-4 tables) hidden in a basement of a building, just opposite to a noisy former restaurant called Barbeque COOP (reminding to us for the communist times). Quite a rich menu is Bulgarian is available in the pub, with a surprising variety of skillfully prepared and tasty at quite low prices. Nevertheless the lack of ventilation, the atmosphere is cozy and friendly, maybe due to the guitar, narghile, extravagant interior and mainly the young English-speaking staff. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red Line) B-1, ul. Vladayska 27. This bar named after the movie Thin Red Line used to be on ul. Graf Ignatiev close to bul. Vitosha. They moved to a bigger place on two floors. One floor is up the stairs and has a rectangular bar. The other floor is down the stairs where most of the action takes place. The place is murky and is decorated with movie posters from the Lord of the Rings, The Abyss, The Raven and others. This bustling bar offers all kinds of alcohol and entertainment. There is a pool table, table football and a flat-screen TV always tuned to a sports channel. The music is alternative and rock from the 90ies, sometimes they play hip hop, but you will definitely not hear MTV hits. The service is good and the stuff is friendly. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PG Upstairs C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 989 96 96, upstairs@ uno-sofia.com, www.uno-sofia.com/upstairs. First-floor bar overlooking Sofia’s busiest downtown shopping street, with comfy lounge-bar furniture inside, and a line of stools along the verandah providing the perfect vantage point from which to observe the goings-on below. There’s a menu of fancy food, and a list of cocktails that runs to several pages. Glamorous without making too big a deal out of it, this is just what boulevard Vitosha needs. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. AW Sofia In Your Pocket nightlife Black Box B-2, ul. Pirotska 5. Boasting three dancefloors, chillout area and V.I.P lounge, Black Box is something of a haven . for hard-core techno and drum & bass freaks - so if an after-work dance around the handbag is what you’re after then you’d be better off heading elsewhere. Most of the clientele appear to be under 20, but then Black Box’s sanity-challenging sound system and light show are something that you have to be in the flush of youth to endure. The club is only open when a specific DJ event is scheduled, so you really need to interrogate your in-the-know Sofia friends before making tracks. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Brilyantin B-3, ul. Moskovska 3, tel. 986 31 12, www. briliantin.com. The name of this club is a tribute to the dancing skills of Travolta and Newton-John, as Brilyantin (“Brilliantine”) is the name by which Seventies’ musical Grease is known in Bulgaria. However you’re unlikely to see any latter-day hep-cats jiving away in their best rock-and-roll frocks - Brilyantin is actually one of Sofia’s prime hang-outs for stylish young professionals, wannabe media types and expensive-cocktail conoisseurs. Matt black surfaces, the odd mirror-ball and a crowd-pleasing mixture of retro, house and dance-pop are the order of the day. Hard to get into at weekends - when you might have to reserve a table or arrive soon after opening time. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PJA Buddha Bar B-3, ul. Lege 15A, tel. 989 50 06. There are so many Buddha bars around the world these days that the cross-legged sage is beginning to look more like the logo of a multinational leisure business than founder of one of the world’s great religions. The Sofia version offers just as much oriental kitsch as its namesakes but still succeeds in being a relaxing drinking spot - especially if you choose the chill-out room with the hookahs. The DJ parties held here feature ethno, house and dance music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PJALGB 39 Clubs 4km Party Centre G-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 111, tel. 870 07 75, office@jetcat.bg. Cavernous club in a renovated military installation on the way to Sofia airport, with a huge main dance-floor and a smaller lounge-like bar. Attracts international house and techno DJs at weekends when admission fees rise accordingly. However it’s miles away from anywhere and there are no other bars or clubs in the vicinity - so you’d better check what’s on here before forking out for a taxi and waving goodbye to the rest of your wallet at the entrance. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 10-25Lv. PLB unmarked passageway on ul. Rakovski leads down to this vast barn of a place, regularly filled to bursting with adrenalinecharged, hedonistically-inclined Sofians. An anything-goes DJ policy keeps the dance floor constantly packed. If it gets too hot and crowded you can always head for the chill-out room (to the right of the coat-check), where you can sprawl on oriental divans and puff away on a hookah pipe. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. www.babblesclub.com. Ultra-fab designer bar which looks like a space-ship, a children’s cartoon or a kooky Sixties’ film set, depending on how many drinks you’ve had already. It’s the brainchild of owner Kremena Halvadzhian, who also happens to be one of Bulgaria’s top stylists. The lively atmosphere is backed up with house music supplied by popular Bulgarian DJs. If the cheerful colours aren’t enough to cheer you up, you can resort to a classical cocktail or straight drink. QOpen 17:00 - 00:00. Alcohol B-4, ul. Rakovski 127, tel. 0888 655 500. An Babbles C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 22, tel. 980 65 79, October - December 2008 40 nightlife Casinos sabranie 4, tel. 980 70 75, fax 980 30 66. Roulette, black-jack, poker and more. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Casino Princess F-7, Sofia Princess Hotel, bul. Maria Luiza 131, tel. 933 87 00, fax 931 00 61. Southeast Europe’s answer to Las Vegas. Just don’t go crazy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Casino Rila B-3, Rila Hotel, ul. Kaloyan 6, tel. 981 80 67, fax 981 82 48. 10 total table games, restaurant. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AK Casino Viva B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5, tel. 986 35 01. Good choice of slot machines and table games. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A space, the cute Baby Box. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 5-20Lv. PJAEBW Casino London B-4, Radisson SAS, pl. Narodno Life House B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 0888 241 016, www.clublifehouse.com. The name says it all - this is one of the top venues for house music in Sofia, with top local and international DJs doling out the beats. Design is postindustrial and service is of the kind usually experienced in Sofia clubs - slow but genial. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 2-15Lv. PA prclub-bg.com. Only a few months old and already seen as something of a jewel in Sofia’s night-life crown, PR offers stylish interior, six bars and an amazing lighting rig. Enjoyable, all-inclusive mix of house and retro-disco rhythms, enhanced by the presence of some of Sofia’s most cheerful and friendly staff. QOpen 23:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun. PR G-8, ul. Cherkovna 87, tel. 0895 500 500, www. club is snugly sheltered in the basement of an old Art-Nouveau building which lends a particular old-time atmosphere reinforced by the stylish furniture and lighting. Musical styles include latino and retro-pop, drawing in a slightly older crowd than some of the techno-temples elsewhere. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. PJAW Cabaret C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 12, tel. 981 60 88. The Club Liqueur B-3, ul. Pirotska 5 (corner with George Washington), tel. 0888 888 358, www.clubliqueur.com. The place plays retro, rock, evergreen, R&B and dance music. The decoration is modernistic with columns wrapped in silver, the bar and bar plots are illuminated, the high chairs are with leather seating. The overall luminous effects are state of the art in red, green and yellow. Occasionally there is live music. There are also special alcohol promotions for each day of the week. Just ask. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. On Monday and Sunday no admission fee, Thursday ladies go in for free. PJAE www.sugarclub.eu. Sugar is maybe the only “exclusive” Fri & Sat R&B and hip hop club in town. It has two rooms, with different DJ playing but sometimes, you never know when, there will be only the main room open. The crowd is quite young, so you might feel either in kindergarten or in heaven. There are 3 video walls projecting all night movies or documentaries about R&B stars. The 2 bars are aways full and hard to get to, since the drinks are quite cheap and this certainly inspires drinking. People are definitely there to dance and show off their new MTV moves or if you are lucky electric and break dance style. Wear your party or “gangsta” style clothes to make sure you catch the eye. Excellent and welcoming surrounding for people of all races, fun is guaranteed. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. PJA Pulse Club A-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 50, tel. 089 852 01 50. This small and cozy night club offers a nice environment in which to escape from the outside world. Designed to keep you on the dance floor, the club consists of one bar and tables facing the dance floor. At the entrance of the club there are three bed - like sofas, where you can chill out on soft cushions. Make sure you don`t leave your drink unattended ( even on the bar ), as your half full beer bottle will be gone in no time and of course the bartenders will know nothing of its mysterious disappearance. The cloakroom is tiny, so don`t rely on having your coat hanging nicely. There are theme parties every Friday and they not only fill the place with a pleasant crowd, but they are also an atmosphere and experience you should not miss. For more information check our culture section. QOpen 22:00 - 08:00. Closed Sun. Salsa plus B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 980 40 80/0888 50 80 80, salsaplus@abv.bg. Somewhat appropriately hidden in an alley and down in a basement, this alternative dance club is a must for anyone who likes something different. Boasting a simple and bright decor, a small bar area, a clientele that varies in age and ethnicity and an open space for them to strut their stuff, at times you will actually feel like you are in South or Central America. There is a joyous spirt here that is infectious, thanks to the welcoming customers, many of whom sport traditional dress, who are here to express themselves to the sexy latino rhythm. You’ll possibly find someone to teach you a few steps or you can just sit back and enjoy what often turns into a real show. QOpen 17:30 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P Tri Ushi B-2, ul. Tri Ushi 1, tel. 0897 934 972/0899 787 862, club_triushi@yahoo.com. The name of this club means “Three Ears”, and to be honest this basement bar’s sound system is so loud that a third ear would come in handy. It’s a great place for alternative music (punk, ska, reggae, whatever), but come expecting the latest chart hits and you’ll be disappointed. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 3-5Lv. Club Sugar C-4, ul. Graf Ignatiev 1, tel. 0899 103 617, Escape B-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 1, tel. 0889 990 000, www.clubescapebg.com. Escape boasts a huge dancefloor, four bars on two levels, a bone-grinding sound system and an energized, foxy clientele. Thursday is retro-disco night, while top-ranking house and techno DJs twiddle the knobs at weekends. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 10Lv. PJAL Chervilo B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 9, tel. 981 66 33, maria@chervilo.com, www.chervilo.com. Ten-year-old veteran of the Sofia clubbing scene that shows no sign of going out of fashion. Alongside leading Bulgarian techno DJs, the club frequently hosts star guests from abroad, and attracts a correspondingly hip crowd. It is divided into three halls and though the major club nights are held in the Main Room, some infectiously off-beat DJ events take place in a smaller Sofia In Your Pocket Yalta B-4, bul.Tsar Osvoboditel 20, tel. 980 12 97/0897 870 230, office@yaltaclub.com, www.yaltaclub.com. Sofia’s longest-running dance venue is still the best place to catch international DJs - there’s usually at least one big name jetting in every weekend. The recently revamped main chamber is closed on quiet weeknights, although the ground-floor bar (open daily) is always worth a visit: anyone who remembers the space-station cafe scene from 2001: a Space Odyssey will find it curiously familiar. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. 42 nightlife Folk clubs Folk in Bulgaria means chalga – the semi-oriental, shakeyour-booty-and-waggle-your-hands-in-the-air ethno-pop which is indigenous to the Balkan peninsula. Gay and lesbian Sofia There are now several centrally-located gay venues in Sofia. Most are friendly places catering for a wide clientele rather than special interests. Up-to-date listing of parties in bars and clubs can be found at www.gay.bg. One characteristic of Sofia’s gays and lesbian community is that many prefer to visit mixed clubs which are known for attracting a tolerant, open-minded crowd: Chervilo, Escape and Yalta (see our main “Nightlife” listings for details) are good examples of these. 932. Cute little place specializing in Balkan folk-pop, popular with transvestites and a younger crowd. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Club 18+ C-2, bul. Vitosha 18, tel. 846 82 54. Newish club on central Sofia’s main street with different DJ styles on different nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Essence B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 29, tel. 0899 998 666. Lesbian club with a wide spectrum of music. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PG Exit Club B-6, ul. Lavele 16, tel. 0888 140 133, www.exit-club.com. Bar & Diner. Cosy place with a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails and a DJ-party every evening. Not to be confused with the Exit Club on ul. Suborna, which is completely straight. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. J Chillout Bar & Dinner B-3, ul. Triaditsa 5, tel. 980 02 03, diner@chilloutbg.com, www.chilloutbg.com. One of those mainstream but gay-friendly places that attracts a mixed tolerant crowd throughout the week. Dedicated gay DJ party every 2nd Saturday. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PABW In Da Club C-2, ul. Samuil 33. Dedicated gay club with 3 floors of music. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Vital B-2, ul. Alabin 5, tel. 987 19 67. A key meeting point of long standing, functioning as a cool café in the daytime and transforming itself into a DJ bar from about 8pm onwards. Club nights on Fridays and Saturdays frequently involve strip shows, cabaret and DJ-driven fun. Nice garden courtyard. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Why Not B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 31, tel. 986 66 30. Located beneath Capri Pizzeria: ring the doorbell to gain admittance. Small and often smoky place with tiny dance floor. The music is oriental pop-folk. Very crowded on Friday and Saturday nights. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Help B-2, ul. Hristo Botev 61, tel. 810 88 88, bgcinematrade@abv.bg. Housed in the Sin City entertainment complex, an expensively renovated former theatre, Help is the biggest and flashiest of the folk venues. There’s a lobby bar playing western dance-pop and an enormous main hall crammed with tables (reserve in advance if you want to be sure of one), with a mix of DJs and live musicians laying down chalga beats. Attracts dressed-up ladies and mean-looking macho types, so attire yourself accordingly. QOpen 21:00 - 07:00. Admission: 5-20Lv. PALGBW NAI-klub B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 10, tel. 981 27 47, dani_nai@abv.bg. Prepare for visual and aural overload in his cavernous subterranean space, with cave paintings on the walls, leopard-print tablecloths, and four giant feet holding up the ceiling. A foundation-shaking selection of Bulgarian and Serbian chart hits will have your hips swaying convulsively after a few drinks. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. Admission: 3Lv. Ladies go in for free. etaclub@abv.bg, www.planeta-club.com. Not much in the way of fancy decor but hugely enjoyable nevertheless, with a house band moving room table to table, and belly-dancers shaking their assets in the direction of anyone who looks like a generous tipper. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 3-10Lv. Adonis B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 122, tel. 0898 305 Planeta B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 6, tel. 987 94 94, plan- Karaoke Backstage Karaoke Bar C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 100. A spacious club with wide variety of songs. Live concerts are also organized there. The style is predominantly rock. Prices are not very low but the entrance fee is modest. The club is divided into 2 halls, one of them with a pool table. Food is not available, except for nuts. Yesterday Karaoke Bar B-3, ul. Rakovski 82, tel. 981 23 46. A nice small place underground in a noisy central street. The list of songs is quite rich and various: people can choose from MTV hits to French chansons, Russian chastushki, Bulgarian pop music etc. However drinks are not very cheep and Bulgarian alcohol is not available. Sometimes it is far too overcrowded. An entrance fee of 2 lv is included in the bill at the end. You can sing karaoke there all nights except for Friday and Saturday. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. P Live music clubs 8th Ball A-4, Sv. sv. Kiril i Metodiy 27, tel. 0876 107 722. This underground basement cavern is a place for hardcore punks, hooligans and all types of tattooed weirdos. It is the place where fast, noisy, unknown and mostly young bands play with fierce passion. Don’t mess with the bartenders, they are as local and as tough as you will never be. B29 Piano Bar B-1, ul. Vladayska 29, tel. 952 06 65, b29@abv.bg, www.b29pianobar.com. A piano bar which really is a bar with a piano in it, featuring regular live performances by distinguished Bulgarian ivory tinklers. Music ranges from relaxing cocktail-bar jazz to stomping R’n’B covers, when it’s time to cast your inhibitions aside and hit the dance-floor. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Admission: 4Lv. A Sofia In Your Pocket Back Stage B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 100, tel. 946 13 77. Sizeable club with a huge oblong bar, pool tables in the adjoining room, and a big stage at one end that hosts the big names of Bulgarian rock and pop. Wednesday night is blues night. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 3-10Lv. EG Biblioteka Cool House - Piano Bar B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 88, tel. 943 40 04. This is a luxurious karaoke bar in the basement of the National library building. The list of songs offers mainly pop, rock, chill out and retro. Beverages are quite expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. PAE Fans B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 114, tel. 0896 061 315. Getting to Fans is an adventure in itself: go through the yard of the Chinese restaurant at bul. Vasil Levski 114, down the spiral stairs, through the heavy curtain used instead of a door, and pay a man dressed as a cowboy to gain admit- 44 nightlife tance. Once inside the semi-darkened interior you’ll find an enthusiastic beer-swilling crowd, and nightly performances by Bulgarian rockers, bluesmen and pop-rock cover bands. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. PALE The Club G-8, Nicolaus Copernicus 2, tel. 872 09 Social Jazz Club C-3, pl. Slaveykov 4, tel. 0884 622 220. Buried beneath Sofia City Library is one of Sofia’s coolest music venues, offering a regular menu of live jazz including some top names from Bulgaria and the Balkans. Although there is standing space in front of the stage, it’s best to reserve a table if you want to watch the gig in comfort. The bar serves imported drinks only and prices are on the high side, so do remember to visit the cash point before you arrive. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. 5-15Lv. 06 96, galswing@abv.bg. Currently the best place in town to catch local rock, blues, jazz and world-music acts, with a six-day-a-week programme of live music. With three bars, two stages, and a brick-lined, cellarlike interior, it’s a great place for a night out whoever is on the bill. Friendly party-inclined atmosphere draws musically-inclined Sofians of all ages, and a generous sprinkling of ex-pats. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 5Lv. 46, http://theclub-bg.com/. Once a cult rock club, this cozy 2-store hut is where all good and professional Bulgarian musicians play. Close to the audience and with booze flowing from the bar. The owner is a respected Bulgarian alternative rock musician and producer, so sound quality is indisputable. Adult entertainment Angels Club B-3, Sheraton Hotel, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5, tel. 987 15 30. Lots of nice dancing girls. QOpen 22:00 05:00. Admission: 7Lv. PJAL Swingin’ Hall D-5, bul. Dragan Tsankov 8, tel. 963 Dolls G-7, bul. Dzheyms Bauchar 100, tel. 963 39 64, www.sofianights.com. Classy club with a long tradition, with a sizeable cast of dancing girls and a programme of erotic shows. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 7Lv. PA 70, www.sofianights.com. Plush environment in which to enjoy an array of lovely dancers. Fruit salad - served on a woman’s body - is the speciality of the house. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. A Taboo Club B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie 12, tel. 987 08 Guidelines to Bulgarian lifestyle, bars, clubs and discos 1. Try not to stare at women that are accompanied by their boyfriends, no matter how beautiful they are, it might be taken as an insult. 2. Try to avoid conflict if you notice Bulgarian people stare at your wife/girlfriend, or at yourself, usually they will be just curious. Don’t forget some 19 years ago the majority of people didn’t even meet foreigners from beyond the iron curtain, so you are still new and exciting. Bravo! 3. Don’t try to act overly macho, particularly in more provincial towns or cities. Unless of course you are Mike Tyson. 4. When in a bar do not shout or insult the waiters or other staff members, it may be taken very deeply. 5. If you feel that someone is in some way being threatening or intimidating to you, it is often best to befriend them. In many cases locals feel threatened by foreigners and try to show themselves as tough but when you act as equals and friends they will often almost immediately drop this façade. 6. If however a conflict situation rises, leave immediately. Do not stay around and add on to the fire. Bulgarians are very social and family driven and under a common goal a big group of people is summoned very fast. 7. Good icebreakers are compliments on the country: The food, the football, the women, the inventions created by Bulgarians such as the Cyrillic alphabet and so on. As additional benefit you might get an interesting story or two. Make them talk, they love it. 8. Strong drinks (vodka, whisky etc.) come in quantities of 50ml for a small and 100ml for a large. In some places, unless you specifically ask for small you will be handed a large by default. 9. Rakia must only be drunk with shopska salad. Don’t ask us why, it just should. If you order one without salad you may well be looked at as if you are from Mars. 10. The Bulgarian for “cheers” is nazdrave, which literally means “to your health”. If someone proposes a toast (and this could happen innumerable times during the course of the evening) you have to clink your glass with absolutely everyone, no matter how many are sitting round the table, making sure to look in the eye at the point of clinking. If you fail to make eye contact, they will think you are disrespectful (or just an uninformed foreigner). The custom comes from ancient times. In days gone by kings, khans and other important figures would look deep into the eyes of the person they cheer to guess his intentions. Then they would bang their glasses so hard, so that a drop of each drink gets into the other (mixing the drinks would guarantee they are not poisoned). 11. Be prepared to mix your own drinks. Whilst in England a “vodka and coke” means a nice mixed drink from the bar, in BG it means 1 vodka (most likely large) and 1 coke. Mix it yourself to your own perfect proportions. Cheers. 12. Bring a gas mask. Many Bulgarians are heavy smokers although this becomes less with new generations. Some bars can be closed in and stuffy places. Combine this with a crowd of 40 a day hardcore smokers and you get quite a fog. 13. Take advantage of the hospitality of the Bulgarian soul. You might be invited to dinners, parties, cocktail parties, promotions, etc. Generally Bulgarians love foreigners. 14. In bars you can not bring drugs, guns or other forbidden substances. Pretty much like most places you have been in your life. 15. Big fat silver chains that you could anchor a boat with are an absolute must. That is if you want to appear young, cool, like a gangster or simply need to anchor a boat. 16. If you are going out on a Friday night to a bar and want to blend in like a local, it is essential that you haven’t shaved for at least 3 days. Dressing entirely in black is a bonus. 17. Girls, for you to catch the attention of Bulgarian men, just act natural and dress sexy. www.inyourpocket.com Sofia In Your Pocket 46 nightlife Studentski grad Over 10,000 of Bulgaria’s brightest young things live in the grey and windswept blocks of Studentski grad (“Studentville”), a purpose-built suburb located some 7km southeast of the centre. Despite its housing-estate-at-the-end-of-theworld appearance, Studentski grad is one of the fastest changing places in the whole country, with flashy new bars, clubs and fast-food joints springing up almost daily to satisfy the voracious leisure-time appetites of Sofia’s hormonefuelled student community. If you feel like partying 24 hours a day, seven days a week, then this is the place to do it. If your mind is more focused on passing your exams and becoming a responsible member of society, however, you’re best advised to steer clear of the place altogether. To get to Studentski grad, take bus No. 280 from ul. Shipka (B-4) to the end of the line. A taxi back to town won’t break the bank. Bar na kraya na vselenata H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 34B, tel. 962 55 41, office@vselenata.com, www. vselenata.com. The aptly-named “Bar at the End of the Universe” is on the northern fringes of Studentski grad and as such makes the perfect place to start or finish your intrepid crawl through Sofia’s outer reaches. Centred on a big circular bar surrounded by yellowy-orange walls perforated with holes, it looks a bit like a spaceship built out of Swiss cheese. Relaxed, friendly, and with a long list of cocktails and light meals. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PLGW Jim Beam Club H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 3, tel. 0895 433 708, www.minimaxcomplex.com. Ultra modern interior, all red and black design, even down to the waitresses tight costumes, the spacious dance floor, state of the sound system and two enclosed bar areas all combine to make this a hopping nightclub. By 00:30 the place is packed. QOpen 22:30 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. PA Marseille H-8, ul. Prof. Dr. Ivan Stranski 5, tel. 968 19 79, fax 968 19 78, marsilia@sakar-marsilia.com, www. sakar-marsilia.com. This spacious, glass-fronted cafe-bar is guaranteed to fill up with slinky young creatures whatever the time of day or night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Maskata H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 19, tel. 868 80 79. This candle-lit post-industrial cattle shed of a place exudes a relaxing unpretentious vibe, although the disco hits emanating from the muddy sound system sometimes leave a lot to be desired. Maskata’s main selling point is the regular diet of live pop-rock. The size of the party depends on who is playing and how many fans they’ve managed to drag along. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. PALEG Orient 33 H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1, tel. 0895 433 702. Despite non-descript decor and unfriendly staff, the ear-splitting selection of Balkan folk-pop ditties at this popular chalga club keeps the public coming in droves. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Admission: 3-5Lv. Stroezha H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 23B, tel. 962 59 77, stroeja@abv.bg, www.stroeja.com. A warren of nooks and crannies and plenty of lived-in furniture make this one of Studentski grad’s more laid-back drinking holes. If you like alternative rock, punk, ska and Britpop you’ll feel so at home here that you’ll probably never leave. Closed in August. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. Avenue H-8, ul. Atanas Manchev 1A, tel. 0898 553 086, complexavenue@abv.bg, www.complexavenue. com. Minimal decor, throbbing music and a wide selection of cheap alcohol help make this place something of a laboratory of scholarly self-destruction. One floor is devoted to western dance music, while the other concentrates on Balkan chalga-pop, so at least you get to sample both sides of the Studentski grad experience in one place. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Admission: 3Lv. PLW Bacardi Box H-8, ul. 8-mi dekemvri, tel. 968 19 11, angelclub@megalan.bg. Despite a sparse interior whose huge rectangular bar and numerous compartments leave little room for a dancefloor, Bacardi box has no problem packing in the booty-shaking, boogie-happy drinkers. With a winning formula that ranges from top-forty sounds to retro disco and chalga in the early hours, semi-naked dancers on the bar and really affordable prices, it’s no wonder this place is currently one of Studentski grad’s liveliest corners. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PL The Net H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 38. With its brownbeige colour scheme and comfy geometrical furnishings the Net is one of those places that draw you in and keep you contentedly sipping away whether a quiet afternoon coffee or a raucous odyssey of nocturnal entertainment is on your mind. Good list of cocktails, and the shot menu comes highly recommended. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Toucan Bluzz & Rock H-8, ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 4, tel. 0887 098 164. Can white men sing the bluzz? If you like the idea of a subterranean beer hall combining live music with pool tables, a huge bar and a wide range of beers, then it’s well worth heading to Studentski grad to find out. Regular programme of rock and blues, and maybe the best karaoke in Sofia every Thursday night. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Sofia In Your Pocket What to see Sofia may not have the grandeur of a great world city, but its tree-lined, frequently cobbled streets are chock full of absorbing oddities. As you’d expect for a town that’s over 2,000 years old, the centre of Sofia is like a walk-through history lesson, with Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Ottoman Turks and Soviet-inspired communists all having left their architectural imprint. 47 Essential Sofia Alexander Nevski Memorial Church (Hram-pametnik Aleksandar Nevski) B-4, pl. Aleksandar Nevski, tel. 988 17 04. Built by Russian architects inspired by the glories of ancient Byzantium, this multi-domed ecclesiastical monster has been Sofia’s visual trademark ever since its completion in 1924. It was built in memory of the Russia’s nineteenth-century contribution to Bulgaria’s liberation, although the Aleksander referred to in the title is actually a medieval prince of Novgorod who battled Teutonic Knights. Decorated from floor to ceiling with frescoes and illuminated by flickering candles, the vast interior is as atmospheric as they come. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily Liturgy - 08:00 and 17:00; Vigil - Sat 18:30; Mass - Sun 09:30 ansko ezero 1-3, tel. 959 09 39, fax 959 29 66, nmbc@ nmbc.orbitel.bg, www.boyanachurch.org. If medieval church art turns you on then the UNESCO-listed Boyana church will have you foaming at the mouth with excitement. Just about every square inch of the interior is covered with bible scenes and saintly portraits rendered by thirteenth-century artists. Nobody knows the identity of the painters, but their mastery of realistic depiction and sophisticated use of colour puts them on a par with Italian artists of the early Renaissance. It is a tiny church consisting of two parts: the oldest dates from the 10th century, when it served as the chapel of Boyana fortress. A second floor was added in 1259 by the Sevastokrator (or local governor) Kaloyan, who used the church as his family chapel. It was Kaloyan who commissioned the frescoes for which Boyana church is famous. Restored in various stages over the past forty years, the main body of the church was never open to the public in its entirety until December 2006. Highlights include portraits of Kaloyan and wife Desislava dressed in sumptuous robes, and the earliest known portrait of the white-bearded St John of Rila, Bulgaria’s national patron saint. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including National History Museum: 12Lv. Visitors are admitted to the church six at a time, at ten-minute intervals, so be prepared to wait. Boyana Church (Boyanskata tsurkva) H-6, ul. Boy- B-3, ul. Saborna 2, tel. 988 24 06, fax 988 24 05, aim. sofianet.net. Housed in a beautifully restored fifteenthcentury mosque, this attractive display of Thracian, Greek, Roman and medieval Bulgarian artefacts is by far the most eye-pleasing museum that Sofia has to offer. Imposing chunks of Greek and Roman masonry are strewn around the main hall, while upstairs lie many of the headline-grabbing Thracian treasures unearthed by Bulgarian archaeologists in recent years. Most mesmerizing of all is the solid gold burial mask of a fourth-century-BC Thracian ruler, excavated near the central Bulgarian town of Shipka in summer 2004. A series of Orthodox church paintings depicting the life and martyrdom of St George run around the first-floor gallery, while a room full of exquisite medieval Bulgarian jewelry looks contemporary enough to provide today’s designers with a rich seam of inspiration. The bilingual Bulgarian-English labeling is unusually thorough, and the collection is just the right size to be easily digestible in one trip. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 10Lv. Archaeological Museum (Arheologicheski muzey) October - December 2008 48 What to see tel. 955 76 04, fax 955 76 02, nim.pr@abv.bg., www. historymuseum.org. Located in a park-shrouded former government palace on the northern side of the Okolovrusten put (Sofia’s main ring road), Bulgaria’s National History Museum offers a highly enjoyable chronological journey through oh, at least eight millennia of human civilization on the Balkan peninsula. The building itself is a fascinating oddity, having served Bulgaria’s communist leaders as an official residence until 1989. If anybody ever launched a lifestyle magazine for would-be dictators, the marble halls and ornate ceilings in evidence here would make ideal front-page material. A sweeping staircase leads to the display areas, where the circular-shaped Neolithic Hall harbours vividly-decorated jugs and clay figures. Representations of the Earth Mother Goddess dating from the sixth millennium BC include a fabulous pair of buttocks from the Sofia region. Next up is the Thracian room: unfortunately, many of Bulgaria’s most famous Thracian treasures are touring western museums at present, and it is not known quite when they will come home. However there is still plenty of Thracian gold- and silverware, fantastically decorated with mythical animals, to make a visit here worthwhile. Biggest disappointment is the medieval section, which is largely based on replicas of items kept elsewhere, or on photographs of ruined castles and churches throughout Bulgaria. It’s more of an educational theme-park than a serious museum display, but it certainly whets the appetite for further travel within the country. Upstairs on the second floor lies a knock-out display of brightly-coloured folk costumes and kilims, and a fascinating collection of posters, photographs and domestic nick-nacks documenting the social history of twentieth-century Bulgaria. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Admission: 10Lv. Combined ticket including Boyana Church: 12Lv. English-language tours cost 20Lv and can be booked in advance on tel. 955 42 80. National Histor y Museum (Natsionalen istoricheski muzey) G-6, ul. Vitoshko Lale 16, Boyana, B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 3, tel. 986 27 15. Of all the places of worship in Sofia this is the most vivacious, its green steeple and five golden domes outshining pretty much everything else on this central boulevard. Built just before World War I to serve Sofia’s Russian community and modeled on Muscovite churches of the sixteenth century, it looks as if a small piece of the Kremlin has been plonked in the middle of the Balkans. A path to the left of the main entrance leads to the crypt, last resting place of Archbishop Serafim, who served as head of the Russian church in Bulgaria in the early twentieth century. An enormously popular and pious man during his lifetime, Serafim is nowadays accorded almost saintly status by the Sofians, who come here to write prayers on scraps of paper which are then posted into a box next to his sarcophagus. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30. Russian Church of St Nicholas (Ruska tsurkva) Rotunda of St George (Rotonda Sveti Georgi) B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 2. Hidden away in a courtyard behind the Sheraton Hotel, this dainty red-brick doughnut of a building is the oldest surviving structure in the city which still serves its original purpose. Built by the Romans in the fourth century but much changed since, it’s justly famous for the twelfth- to fourteenth-century frescoes inside the central dome. It’s a powerful ensemble, with an all-powerful Christ looking down on successive circles of white-bearded disciples and holy men. Painted over during the Ottoman period (when the building was used as a mosque), these frescoes were only unearthed in the twentieth century. Admission: free, but donations appreciated. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Museums tel. 865 66 39, fax 866 14 55, earth.and.man@gmail. com, www.earthandman.org. Despite being housed in an impressively restored nineteenth-century arsenal, this geology collection is less dramatic than its title suggests, exhaustively cataloguing the earth’s minerals with rows and rows of rock-filled display cases. The outlandish, brightlycoloured quartz crystals on the ground floor just about make a visit worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 2Lv. pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 988 41 91, fax 980 11 62, eim_bas@mail.bg, ethnography.cc.bas.bg. Scintillating displays of folk arts and crafts, drawn from the museum’s vast collection. Situated in the east wing of the former royal palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Lv. Earth and Man National Museum (Natsionalen Muzey “Zemyata i horata”) D-2, bul. Cherni vrah 4, Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzey) B-3, Sofia In Your Pocket What to see Vazov) B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 10, tel. 988 12 70, vazovmuseum@slovo.bg. Bulgaria’s most revered literary figure, Ivan Vazov (1850-1921) is best known for writing Under the Yoke (Pod igoto), a sprawling novel detailing small-town Bulgarian life at the time of the anti-Ottoman uprising of 1876. The house where he lived from 1895 until death is a charming period piece, with furnishings, crockery, bookshelves - and even the stuffed remains of Bobi the dog - pretty much preserved as Vazov left it. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu 13:00 - 17:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Lv. National Museum of Military History (Natsionalen Voennoistoricheski muzey) G-8, ul. Cherkovna 92, tel. Ivan Vazov Museum-House (Kashta-muzey Ivan Nevski 1, tel. 988 49 22, fax 980 60 81, ngfa@abv.bg. Wide-ranging collection of work by fair-to-middling artists you probably haven’t heard of before. You’ll come across one or two famous names if you look closely enough, but much of the best stuff is of a small-format variety (a pastel by Renoir here, a lithograph by Picasso there) - so it would be unwise to come here with high expectations. The ground floor collection of Asian art, including some serene Burmese Buddhas and gorgeous wood-block prints from Japan, constitutes the main highlight. There’s a fourth-century Roman tomb in the basement (labelled “room 19” on the museum plan), but it’s not always open. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 10Lv (Monday free). 49 National Gallery of Foreign Art (Natsionalna galeria za chuzhdestranno izkustvo) B-4, pl. Aleksandar 946 18 05, fax 946 18 06, m.museum@bol.bg, www. mod.bg/nvim/_bg/index.html. A couple of display halls stuffed with uniforms and weaponry, and a hugely enjoyable outdoor section featuring all manner of tanks, jet fighters and Soviet-era long-range missiles. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 10Lv. Churches Holy Sunday Church (Tsurkva Sveta Nedelya) B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya, tel. 987 57 48. The main city-centre church and the preferred venue for Saturday-afternoon weddings, this nouveau-Byzantine structure is the twentiethcentury incarnation of a church that has stood on this spot since medieval times. It has long been associated with the miracle-working bones of Serbian king Stefan Urosh, which are still kept in a wooden box to the right of the iconostasis. It is popularly believed that certain female health problems can be cured by leaving an appropriate piece of underwear in the box for 24 hours (and if you want to test this out you should really contact the priest, not us). The church’s other claim to fame is the flamboyantly ambitious terrorist attack that took place here in 1925, when left-wing activists attempted to bomb the Bulgarian royal family while they were attending a funeral. A huge explosion destroyed much of the church and killed 100 mourners, but the royals escaped unscathed. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy 08:30 and 16:00. 1, tel. 987 41 95, fax 988 28 94, www.nmnh.bas.bg. Rocks, insects, stuffed animals, creatures in bottles, and live reptiles slithering about optimistically in search of small mammals - so keep a firm grip on the kids. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: 2Lv. National Museum of Natural History (Natsionalen Prirodonauchen muzey) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel Galleries Icon Gallery B-3, in the crypt of the Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church, tel. 981 57 75. Stunning collection of Bulgarian icons from the medieval period to the nineteenth century. Portrayals of horse-riding warrior saints such as George and Demetrius are particularly prominent: they served as potent symbols of struggle and survival during the long centuries of Ottoman rule. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission: 4Lv. galeria) B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 980 33 25, sofim@abv.bg. The country’s flagship collection occupies one half of the former royal palace, where creaky parquet floors and ornate stuccoed ceilings provide the perfect environment in which to peruse an all-embracing overview of Bulgarian painting. Strikingly, canvases are hung in the middle of the room rather than on the walls round the sides. Look out in particular for the works of Vladimir DimitrovMaistora (1882-1960), whose pictures of Bulgarian peasant girls surrounded by apples, apricots and other fruit have a timeless, spiritual quality reminiscent of Orthodox icons. If you have a hankering for more modern stuff then head for the ground-floor galleries, where temporary exhibitions of contemporary art are staged. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Lv. National Art Gallery (Natsionalna hudozhestvena Church of St Petka of the Saddlemakers (Tsurkva Sveta Petka Samardzhiyska) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. It’s not often that you come across a fourteenth-century church stranded in the middle of a semi-submerged shopping mall, but this is the fate that befell St Petka when Sofia’s post-war planners decided to run a two-lane highway round either side of it. Incongruously surrounded by glass-fronted souvenir shops, it’s a delightful, cramped space that feels more like a damp cave than a church, and features some faded sixteenth-century frescoes. October - December 2008 50 What to see Church of St Sofia (Tsurkva Sveta Sofia) B-4, ul. Parizh 2, tel. 987 09 71. A church since the fifth century and rebuilt many times since, this was used as a mosque during the Ottoman period and then abandoned when an earthquake rendered it unsafe for services. With most of its medieval decorations and frescoes lost, it’s a comparatively plain church by Sofia standards, but the patterned brickwork provides the interior with enormous visual appeal. A fragment of original Roman mosaic flooring, preserved under a pane of glass in the right-hand aisle, stands in testimony to the church’s ancient origins. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Mosque Banya Bashi Mosque (Dzhamia Banya Bashi) B-3, bul. Maria Luiza. The last surviving mosque in Sofia still in use, the building consists of a large dome and an elegant minaret and takes its name from the neighbouring Central Baths Banya Bashi literally means ‘many baths’. Dating from 1576, the mosque is said to have been designed by Hadji Mimar Sinan, the leading Ottoman architect of the day. The mosque fell into disuse during Communist rule but is now open for worship once again - you can hear the loudspeakers on the minaret calling the Muslims of the city to prayer five times a day. The mosque is not officially open as a tourist attraction but visitors are welcome outside prayer times, including women, if modestly dressed. One of Sofia’s most handsome neo-Byzantine churches, with twentieth-century towers and domes tacked on to a much older central core - which served as an Ottoman mosque (then briefly as a Bulgarian prison) before reverting to its original ecclesiastical function. The church honours ninthcentury Saints Cyril, Methodius and their five followers - who brought literacy to the Slavs and propagated Christianity throughout Eastern Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Daily liturgy 08:00 and 17:00 Church of the Holy Seven (Tsurkva Sveti Sedmochislentsi) C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev, tel. 987 80 23. Synagogue 73, www.sofiasynagogue.com. Dating from 1909, this extravagant building is a fitting monument to the community that once made up one fifth of Sofia’s population. Jewish leaders are widely thought to have dissuaded the Turks from torching the city in 1878, and the respect they commanded among their fellow citizens probably explains why they felt able to erect such a joyously extrovert piece of architecture right beside Sofia’s main street. Viennese designer Friedrich Gruenanger mixed Byzantine and Moorish styles to produce a huge domed building flanked by decorous turrets. Dominating feature of the interior is the 2250kg chandelier hanging from the cupola, surrounded by Art Nouveau-inspired wall decorations. The synagogue was originally built to accommodate around 1300 worshippers - nowadays attendance figures at services hover around the 50-60 mark. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Sofia Synagogue A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 16, tel. 983 12 Sofia In Your Pocket What to see Statues Aleksandar Stamboliyski B-4, Corner of ul. Rakovski and ul. Vrabcha. Leader of the Bulgarian National Peasants’ Party, and Prime Minister from 1919 to 1923, Aleksandar Stamboliyski presided over a radical government that promised fair land distribution and a revival of village life. Conservative circles feared a peasant revolution, and Stamboliyski was overthrown, tortured, and chopped into several pieces by paid killers - it’s a shame that nothing like this ever happened to Todor Zhivkov. Stamboliyski’s statue now stands beside the Opera House (strangely, both the National Opera and the National Peasants’ Party share the same building). 51 Sofia districts - Lyulin Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi B-5, Sofia University, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 15. The Georgiev brothers, who were born in Karlovo made their fortunes in nineteenth-century Odessa, then used their wealth to fund the establishment of Bulgarian-language schools. Their place in the country’s cultural pantheon assured, they now bask beside the steps of Bulgaria’s biggest university. To know Sofia, you should learn about the town’s neighbourhoods, which number 90, by the way. Glamorous and new, or crumbling and built by communists, with neat houses and yards or greyish, dirty concrete blocks, these living areas span for miles from the centre and millions live in them. Lyulin Sofia’s biggest neighbourhood has been a grey, dirty, rusty and unfriendly place for years. Isolated from the centre it exists as a town within the city. Somewhat dark, it is not a friendly place for those not used to it. Stray dogs and the homeless roam the litter-infested wasteland between the huge concrete blocks of flats, which dominate the landscape. Living in them can be challenging as your neighbours can hear you through the walls and are always ready to throw their trash from the window or balcony. Having so many people, some of whom with a solid working class background, on one small place, results in lots of tension and violence as well as all types of criminal activities. Of course, this doesn’t mean that Lyulin’s population consists of thugs and Neanderthals, in fact it is the area with the youngest population in our town. There are twelve high schools, two language ones and fifteen kindergartens in the ten micro-areas of the neighbourhood. These are numbered from one to ten and to get you more and more confused, the closest to the centre is number 10. All blocks in Lyulin have a three digit number, depending on the micro-area. Going to Lyulin is best by car, but otherwise you can try the public transport. Trolley lines 6 and 7, tram number 8 and busses 42, 43, 53, 54, 81, 82, 108, 111, 309, 310, go there, but using the fast and comfortable metro line will probably save you a headache or two. Try to stay out of trouble and don’t challenge locals who have the amazing ability to gather a reasonable fighting posse in minutes. Monument to Holy Wisdom (Statuya na Sveta Sofia) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Once occupied by a behemoth- sized statue of Lenin, this prime city-centre site was left vacant throughout the 1990s, and it wasn’t until the millennium that this 24-metre-high bronze goddess - an allegory of “Holy Wisdom” - appeared on the spot. The city of Sofia originally got its name from the Church of Sveta Sofia (“Holy Wisdom”) in the centre, and this statue was intended to symbolize the connection. However it was far from clear how an abstract concept like “Holy Wisdom” could be portrayed in a sculpture (is it a bird? is it a plane? is it a 24-metre-high bronze woman?), and Sofians remain unsure whether this shiny female with a dove in her right hand really fits the bill. Monument to the Tsar Liberator (Pametnik Tsar Osvoboditel) B-4, pl. Narodno sabranie. This 14-metrehigh lump of bronze designed by Italian artist Arnoldo Zocci honours Russian Tsar Alexander II who, by declaring war on the Ottoman Empire in 1877, liberated Bulgaria in the process. The reliefs surrounding the pedestal - including a scene in which the goddess of victory leads troops into battle - make for some stirring viewing. Petko and Pencho Slaveykovi C-3, pl. Slaveykov. Bulgaria’s foremost father-and-son literary duo perch on a bench beside the square that, appropriately enough, now hosts Sofia’s biggest book market. Educationalist, politician and writer Petko Slaveykov (1827-1895) did much to preserve Bulgarian literature’s links with its folkloric roots; while his son Pencho (1866-1912) took things a step further by penning modern verse influenced by Romanticism, Symbolism and other modish western currents. October - December 2008 52 What to see Popa C-4, corner of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Patriarh Evtimiy. This rather inconspicuous statue of a bearded ecclesiastic honours Patriarch Euthymius (Patriarh Evtimiy in Bulgarian), the fourteenth-century church leader who presided over a flowering of Bulgarian culture before being led into captivity by the Ottoman Turks in 1393. It’s nowadays the most popular meeting point in the city - if you’re going on a date or a bar crawl, the chances are you’ll rendezvous here. “Popa” is Bulgarian slang for “priest”. Ugly Sofia Stefan Stambolov B-4, Corner of bul. Tsar Osvobodi- tel and ul. Rakovski. Prime Minister from 1887 to 1894, Stefan Stambolov was the most talented - but also the most controversial - politician of his generation, pursuing pro-western liberal policies while at the same time locking up opponents and silencing the press. Sacked by Prince Ferdinand in May 1894, he was hacked to death on ul. Rakovski by sword-wielding assassins 12 months later. This curiously egg-shaped sculpture sprouting from a corner of Kristal park serves as some kind of tribute. in front of the colonnaded façade of the National Library, these ninth-century monks from Thessaloniki are celebrated for their invention of an entirely new alphabet, which they used to translate the holy gospels into the Slav languages. Subsequently modified by their disciples, the alphabet is nowadays known as Cyrillic, and is used in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Macedonia and Serbia as well as in Bulgaria itself. St St Cyril and Methodius (Sveti Sveti Kiril i Metodiy) B-5, bul. Vasil Levski 88. Standing proudly is probably unique in Europe in being the only capital which can boast a decaying pile of junk as one of its major downtown focal points. Unveiled in 1981 to mark the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the Bulgarian state, this unimaginably shoddy memorial is an eloquent metaphor for much that has happened in Bulgaria in the intervening 25 years. It was barely a decade old when it started falling to bits, and the question of who should pay for its refurbishment (or demolition) has been the object of inconclusive bickering ever since. An angular piece of modern sculpture with statues emerging absurdly from its summit, the monument has long been the object of popular scorn - “the seven-angled thing with five pricks” being the most enduring of its many nicknames. Currently surrounded by hoardings to prevent bits of it from falling on the heads of passers by, its future remains uncertain. Monument to the Bulgarian State (Pametnik na balgarskata darzhava) C-2, pl. Bulgaria. Sofia The empty space in front of the National Gallery B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenbeg. The empty space in front of the national gallery stands in eloquent tribute to the vacuous posturing of Bulgaria’s post-communist rulers. The building that used to stand on this spot was one of socialist-era Sofia’s principal landmarks, a mausoleum built to house the corpse of Bulgaria’s first communist leader Georgi Dimitrov. Dimitrov’s body was removed in 1990, but arguments about how best to use the building itself dragged on for a decade. Eventually the right-wing government of Ivan Kostov decided to blow the mausoleum up, believing that such an act would somehow symbolize Bulgaria’s triumphant march towards democracy. President, prime minister and foreign dignitaries assembled to view the demolition in January 2000, only to discover that repeated detonations failed to bring the mausoleum down. Eventually the crowds drifted away, and the bulldozers were brought in. Sofia In Your Pocket What to see Socialist Sofia As with many authoritarian regimes throughout the ages, Bulgaria’s communist rulers suffered from an overweening desire to turn politics into a highly visible part of the urban landscape. Government buildings were conceived as grandiose statements of political order, while statues of socialist heroes employed simple, often childlike imagery to teach important ideological lessons. Despite the demolition of many communist landmarks after 1989 (notably the rotund statue of Lenin that once rose like a malevolent iron pig above the central pl. Nezavisimost), present-day Sofia still boasts a compelling collection of sites where you can examine socialist art at first hand. bas-reliefs on either side of the pillar show scenes from the October revolution, World War II battles, and Soviet troops entering Bulgaria to be greeted joyfully by the locals. In 1993 Sofia City Council voted to destroy the monument, pointing out quite rightly that it symbolized Bulgaria’s subservience to a foreign power. Faced by opposition from the Bulgarian Socialist Party, and discouraged by the potential cost of its demolition, the Council had no choice but to leave the monument as it is. For much of the last decade the area around the monument has become the favoured meeting point of Sofia’s skateboarders, although construction work on the Sofia metro has recently encroached on their space. Turn up on important dates like May 9 (the anniversary of Germany’s surrender in 1945) or September 9 (anniversary of Bulgaria’s communist-led coup in 1944) and you’ll probably see die-hard communists gathering at the monument to demonstrate their undying faith in the cause. Statues outside Vasil Levski Stadium C-4, bul. Evlogi Georgiev. Authoritarian regimes have frequently exploited the popularity of sport to build a cult of strength, discipline and order. Produced by a team of sculptors in the mid-fifties, these idealized statues outside the main entrance to the stadium are perfect examples of this cult in action. Depicting footballers, athletes, gymnasts and other examples of socialist achievement and perfection, the statues were originally eight in number. An empty pedestal marks the spot where one of them went missing, presumed stolen, in the mid-1990s. The Party House (Partien dom) B-3, pl. Nezavisimost. Sofia may lack the bombastic baroque skyscrapers bestowed by Stalin on Moscow and Warsaw, but the local ruling caste did at least make an effort with this custard-coloured neo-classical edifice at the end of pl. Nezavisimost. Built to house the Communist Party Central Committee, it once sported a massive red star atop its rocket-like spire - when protesters attempted to torch the building in August 1990, the star was hastily removed. The building now provides office space for Bulgarian MPs. 53 Friendship Bridge (Most na druzhbata) C-4, crossing of ul. Graf Ignatiev and bul. Evlogi Georgiev. Built in 1953 to symbolize brotherhood between Bulgaria and the Soviet Union (a relationship in which one brother was always bigger than the other), this bridge boasts an impressive ensemble of sculptures, with statues representing the peasantry, the intelligentsia and the armed forces. Most telling inclusion is the pair of nineteenth-century Russian and Bulgarian soldiers on the north-eastern pier: a clever piece of propaganda suggesting that the Soviet Union’s “liberation” of Bulgaria in 1945 was simply a repeat performance of the Liberation of 1878. Mound of Brotherhood (Bratska mogila) G-8, Bori- sova gradina. Many of the artists responsible for th e Soviet Army Monument also worked on the Mound of Brotherhood, a 42-metrehigh obelisk that rises dramaticall y from a ridge in the south-eastern corner of Borisova gradina park. Built in 1956, it is intended to commemorate those who fought and fell in various stages of the struggle against fascism - from the Bulgarian communist uprising of September 1923 (a badlyplanned affair that culminated with most of the participants being rounded up and shot) to the Red-Army offensives of World War II. A monumental statue of machine-gun-toting partisans stands at the base of the obelisk, while basreliefs on either side portray striking workers, and Soviet troops being greeted by Bulgarian civilians. Soviet-style fresco E-4, wall of a school on ul. Sveti Naum. Hidden from the street by a politically-prudish pair of trees, this is one of the few examples of agit-prop art still to be found in the city. The fatherly face of Lenin beams down from one side of the wall, while a ruggedly handsome cosmonaut smoulders away quietly on the other. Soviet Army Monument (Pametnik na Savetskata armia) C-5, Orlov most. Built in 1954 by a team of architects and artists working under Danko Mitov, this is one of the best examples of socialist sculpture in the Balkans, and also one of the most controversial. A skyline-dominating 34-metre-high pillar, it is crowned by a flamboyant statue of a Red Army soldier leading a Bulgarian couple towards the Promised Land of communism. Bronze October - December 2008 54 What to see Mount Vitosha each way) or the cable-car from Simeonovo (tel. 961 21 89 Open: daily except Mon 08:30-16:30: 3.50Lv each way) and you’ll be treated to superb views back towards the city. If you do come by lift or bus then be sure to check return times carefully: stumbling down the mountain in fading evening light is the reward awaiting those who miss the last service back to town. Once you get to Aleko, the 50-minute walk to Cherni vruh takes you through a stunning landscape of upland meadows, stunted conifers and granite boulders. The bare plateau stretching west from Cherni vruh is a hauntingly beautiful place, covered in large part by a peat bog which supports all manner of wild flowers and insects. The bog itself is a protected area, but paths round either side give you a chance to savour this environment at its stark best. Vitosha’s other main recreation area is Zlatnite mostove (“Golden Bridges”), over on the mountain’s western shoulder at the end of a zig-zagging road from the suburb of Boyana (to get to Zlatnite mostove on public transport, take bus No. 61 from the Ovcha Kupel bus terminal). Zlatnite mostove’s main claim to fame is the Stone River, an awesome cascade of massive boulders deposited here by retreating glaciers several millennia ago. From the top of the Stone River, eastbound trails will bring you to Cherni vruh in about 2-3 hours. Due north of Zlatnite mostove, Sofia’s television tower (“Kopitoto”) spears up from a ridge overlooking the city. There’s a superb view from the terrace café of the nearby Kopitoto Hotel, although drinks here are on the expensive side. You can get detailed hiking maps of Mount Vitosha from most of the bookshops listed in our “Shopping” section. A list of some marked hiking trails: 1. Bistritsa Village - Samokovishteto watermill - Golyamata Gramada - Mecha Polyana - Aleko hut - 4.00 hours 2. Boyana Village - Boyanski Vodopad - Momina Skala hut - Zlatnite Mostove - 3,00 hours 3. Bay Krastyo - Kikish shelter - Momina Skala hut - Zlatnite Mostove - Vladaya village - 3.30 hours 4. Bay Krastyo - Kominite peak - Platoto -1.20 hours (beware of avalanches in winter and early spring) 5. Zlatnite Mostove - Kumata hut - Konyarnika area - Cherni vruh - 3.20 hours 6. Zlatnite Mostove - Edelvays hut - Ostritsa hut - Selimitsa hut - Kladnitsa village - 3.40 hours. 7. Kladnitsa village - Selimitsa hut - Dain Kladenets - Mecha Cheshma - Chuypetlovo village - 4.00 hours 8. Kladnitsa village - Matnitsa river - Sharev Rid peak - Zhivata Voda well - Bosnek village - 5.00 hours 9. Cherni Vrah - Chernoto Plato - Siva Gramada - Yarlovo village - 4.30 hours Vitosha Mountain . One of Sofia’s greatest assets is the proximity of Mount Vitosha, a 2290-metre-high ridge of pine forests and rocky uplands that rises majestically above the city’s southern suburbs. Boasting a network of marked trails through the woods and an abundance of open heathland around the summit, it’s the perfect place for picnics, short rambles or ambitious day-long hikes. Best of all it’s easily accessible from the city, with most of its points of interest lying a 30-to-40-minute drive from the centre (or a slightly longer journey by public bus). The most obvious part of the mountain to head for is Aleko, a low-key “resort” area (really just a huddle of little-used hotels) which lies just below Vitosha’s highest point, “Black Peak” or Cherni vruh. You can get to Aleko by car by following a winding cobbled road from the suburb of Dragalevtsi, which can be pretty tricky in bad weather. Otherwise, you can catch bus No 66 from Hladilnika (the terminus of the No 9 tram). For a more stylish ascent, take the chairlift from Dragalevtsi (tel. 967 11 25 Open: Fri, Sat, Sun 08:30-16:30; 1.50 Lv Other sights na kulturata) D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 68 30, www.ndk.bg. Opinions differ as to whether the “largest multifunctional complex in southeastern Europe” is an attraction or an eyesore, but its dominating position at the southern end of bul. Vitosha makes it difficult to miss. Built in the 1980s this hexagonal lump of concrete and glass looks like a child’s building block inflated to unearthly size. Inside lie thirteen concert halls of varying sizes, fifty-five congress rooms, and innumerable offices, The basement level now accommodates a cramped shopping mall stuffed wi th inexpensi ve fashions and accessories. Sofia In Your Pocket National Palace of Culture (Natsionalen dvorets The Central Baths (Tsentralna banya) B-3, bul. Maria Luiza. Built in 1911 and decorated with exquisite tile mosaics, this wonderful Art Nouveau-cum-Nouveau Byzantine bathhouse is for many people the most beautiful building in the capital. Derelict for many years and now undergoing restoration, it will in future provide much-needed exhibition space for the (currently homeless) Museum of Sofia. What to see B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 7, tel. 988 17 46. This three storey monumental building, designed in the neo-renaissance style , houses a cafe, an art gallery, 2 refined halls and an impressive concert hall. The plase looks like a palace and the concert hall used to be a ball room. Even though it is not a regular clubkeep your eyes and ears wide-open for any event which might take place there, and consider yourself fortunate if you have the chance to attend one. The concert hall is often rented out for private party events and it is guaranteed that each one will be prestigious. 55 The Central Military club (Tsentralen voenen klub) City for children The Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2. Directly opposite the archeological museum is the entrance to the suite of offices where the Bulgarian president does his nine-to-five job, guarded by soldiers dressed in ceremonial nineteenth-century uniforms. The changing of the guard, which takes place on the hour, involves a lot of ritualistic marching about, and is well worth watching. www.patilantsi.com. Indoor and outdoor amusement area primarily for the under 10 age group. Tokens for all riders must be bought at the cash office. QOpen 10:0020:30. Sat, Sun 10:00-21:30 Kokolandia D-5, Borissovata gradina. Adventure playground behind the Park Hotel Moskva. There are three trails, one for 5-10 years old kids, one for 10-18 year olds and one for adults. There is also a climbing wall and a zip wire, a golf course and toddler’s playground. A lot of children and their parents wait for their turn every year from May till October. QOpen 9:00-21:00 Sofia Zoo G-8, ul. Sreburna 1, tel. 962 04 48. Lions, tigers, panthers, elephants, hippos, rhinos, bears, and more. There are two entrances, one from Simeonovsko shose which has a large car park and the other from Hladilnika district. To get to the first one take bus #102, or No 120 and No 88 to the other one. QOpen 9:0018:00. Admission: 1Lv Patilantsi H-8, Mladost-3, 974 48 39, 974 49 63, Out of town - Svoge You do not need Charlie to find the Chocolate Factory. It’s in the town of Svoge 40 kilometers to the north of Sofia. “Balgarski ot Svoge”, as they used to say on the TV, about their chocolate, which makes the city famous among even the pre-school Bulgarians. Chocolate is good, but Nature is the best, and the beauty of the surrounding scenery is immortalized in poetry and prose since ancient times. The town of Svoge, has the privilege to be in the majestic Iskar gorge - Iskarsko defile. Here, the Iskar River meets the smaller Iskretska River and divide three smaller parts of the Stara Planina mountain. Shielded by huge, rock walls, the city lies among the geological history of the mountain range which gave the name to the Balkan Peninsula. The nearby (20km) Lakatnishki skali are vast rock formations, up to 250 meters high, which are a rock climbers and cavers heaven. The longest cave in Stara Planina, almost three kilometers, lies at the bottom of this gorge, making it a famous local tourist spot. The nearby Skaklya waterfalls are a memorable sight, and there is the “Vazov path”, where the famous Bulgarian writer gathered his inspiration. Tsentralni hali B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 28. Built at the same time as the Central Baths and in similar architectural vein, this indoor market hall boasts some beautifully restored period features - notably the glass roof, cast iron pillars and Victorian clock tower. Delicatessen stalls at ground level and fast food counters upstairs ensure a constant stream of visitors. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. October - December 2008 56 CafÉs getting around Public transport Sofia is amply covered by an interlocking network of trams, buses and trolleybuses, with services running from about 05:00 to 23:30. Despite some new additions to the fleet, however, vehicles tend to be antiquated, filthy, overcrowded and above all slow: it can take half a lifetime to cross the city from one side to the other. An additional problem is posed by the lack of information concerning routes - while bus and tram stops in the city centre are marked with numbers of services and details (in Cyrillic) of destinations served, those in the suburbs are invariably rusty old shacks bearing no information whatsoever. Your only hope is to buy a decent city map with tram and bus lines marked on it - then study it for as many months as it takes to learn them all by heart. Single journey tickets costs 1LV and can be bought from street kiosks or from the driver. Once on board each ticket must be validated by punching it in one of the primitive pronged machines positioned near the doors of the vehicle. A strip (talon) of 10 tickets costs 7.50Lv but take care to use them in sequence - tickets numbered 1 to 9 are not valid unless you’ve still got the tenth one in your possession. Officially, you’re supposed to punch an extra ticket for each large item of baggage, but in practice this is rarely enforced - except on buses to and from the airport. Inspections are frequent and there are spotfines for fare-dodgers - officially 10Lv, although unscrupulous inspectors delight in making foreigners pay more. Passes valid for one day (karta za edin den - 4Lv), or one month (karta za edin mesets - 50Lv), are also available - but they can only be bought from kiosks at major stops, not from the driver. Domestic train schedule From Sofia Dep. Arr. 06:15 06:30 08:30 10:30 13:30 14:05 15:30 16:30 17:30 18:15 19:15 22:15 06:30 07:20 10:30 13:30 15:55 22:00 06:50 08:18 09:50 13:15 15:15 19.30 23:35 06:50 09:50 10:30 13:15 21:00 22:00 23:25 09:55 08:53 11:06 13:14 16:13 17:26 17:50 18:54 20:06 21:01 21:37 01:00 13:12 14:20 18:25 21:05 22:19 06:56 13:38 14:25 17:10 20:31 21:44 02:05 07:10 14:22 17:55 19:50 21:12 05:25 07:10 07:44 To Sofia Destination Dep. Arr. PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV PLOVDIV BURGAS BURGAS BURGAS BURGAS BURGAS BURGAS RUSE RUSE RUSE RUSE RUSE RUSE RUSE VARNA VARNA VARNA VARNA VARNA VARNA VARNA 06.00 06:25 07:00 08:00 12:00 12:10 13:15 14:00 15:50 17:35 18:00 20:08 05:30 06:50 10:40 14:20 15:40 21:55 06:20 07:45 11:31 13:08 16:00 21:55 23:30 07:55 09:15 10:55 12:40 22:20 23:04 08:43 10:21 09:22 10:30 14:45 15:32 15:56 17:28 18:36 21:10 20:45 22:37 11:45 14:45 18:36 21:20 22:37 05:35 12:55 15:30 19:14 20:50 22:12 06:37 06:05 15:30 18:36 19:44 20:50 06:37 07:36 Minibus Several popular cross-town routes are operated by privately owned minibuses (marshrutki). Rather than being limited to specific stops, they can be hailed at any point along their route, and will drop passengers off on request. There aren’t any tickets: simply jump in, press yourself into an available corner, and pass 1.50Lv forward towards the driver. Many people prefer marshrutki to regular buses because of their speed and convenience; others are turned off by the tendency of drivers to pack passengers in like sardines and then career around the city like crazed drag racers. If you’re in any way prone to travel sickness, don’t forget to take a puke bag. For further information call tel. 932 42 80. International train schedule From Sofia Dep. Arr. 06:55 17:00 08:18 19:30 12:40 21:20 19:15 13:00 23:06 17:09 06:10 20:12 04:44 08:25 Destination THESSALONICA THESSALONICA BUCHAREST BUCHAREST BELGRADE BELGRADE ISTANBUL To Sofia Dep. Arr. 17:50 00:04 12:53 19:53 08:40 21:10 22:00 23:55 07:36 22:12 06:05 18:15 07:05 11:50 Metro A single metro line runs from Serdika station in the city centre to the western suburb of Lyulin - which is great if you happen to live in Lyulin, but not much use otherwise. If you fancy a ride just for the heck of it, tickets (1Lv) are different from those used in trams and buses, and can only be purchased from ticket counters in the underground stations themselves. Trains Central Station (Tsentralna gara) F-7, bul. Mariya Luiza, tel. 931 11 11 / 932 33 33 (information in Bulgarian only). English-language timetable information on www. bdz.bg. Despite recent renovation Sofia’s main train station remains a dispiritingly dingy hive, comprising two floors of queue-clogged ticket counters, functional cafes and hole-inthe-wall shops. Brightening things up considerably is the flirty little steam engine (built by the German Henschel company in 1918) parked right in the middle of the main ticket hall. Always allow plenty of time to buy your tickets and board your train: platforms are often numbered differently to the tracks running either side of them, so you may find yourself scuttling up and down several stairways in an effort to locate Sofia In Your Pocket For further information call tel. 987 07 77. your train. Tickets to Varna and northern Bulgaria are sold in the main ticket hall; tickets to Burgas and southern Bulgaria are sold in the basement. International tickets are sold by the Rila office, which is located at the end of a corridor leading off the main ticket hall to the left as you enter. Tickets can be bought in advance from two locations in the city centre: Transport Service Centre, in the basement shopping mall of the National Palace of Culture (NDK), tel. 932 42 80. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun, and Railway Ticket Agency Rila /international lines/, ul. Gurko 5, tel. 987 07 77. Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. getting around Flight schedule From Sofia Days 1234567 -234567 1234567 1234567 123-567 1234567 1234567 123 - - - - - - - - 4567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1-345-7 1234567 - - 3-567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:15 18:40 12:20 16:10 18:20 14:55 06:00 10:50 19:25 14:40 07:45 18:30 06:30 13:10 16:50 07:10 14:45 08:00 15:10 09:00 13:20 08:40 11:25 15:15 14:40 Arr. 09:00 19:55 13:50 16:25 19:20 16:20 07:20 11:55 20:35 15:55 09:15 19:40 07:35 14:10 17:50 08:10 16:40 10:00 16:05 09:55 14:15 09:15 12:05 16:00 15:35 Destination AMSTERDAM FB ATHENS OA ATHENS DU BUDAPEST MA BUCHAREST RO FRANKFURT LH FRANKFURT LH ISTANBUL TK ISTANBUL TK LONDON BA-LHR LONDON FB- LGW MILAN AZ MILAN AZ MUNICH LH MUNICH LH MUNICH LH PARIS AF PARIS FB PRAGUE OK PRAGUE OK ROME AZ VIENA OS VIENA OS VIENA OS WARSAW LO To Sofia Days 1234567 –234567 1234567 1234567 123-567 1234567 1234567 123 - - - - - - 4567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1-345-7 1234567 -2- 4561234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 10:30 16:30 14:40 13:05 16:30 10:45 19:50 08:35 17:15 08:35 10:30 09:25 20:05 09:20 13:10 19:15 10:10 11:20 11:40 19:10 20:05 10:50 13:35 20:20 11:00 Arr. 14:10 17:50 16:10 15:25 17:30 14:00 23:00 09:45 18:25 13:45 15:35 12:30 22:55 12:20 16:10 22:20 13:55 15:05 14:35 22:05 22:55 13:30 16:15 22:55 13:55 57 Airlines codes: AF - Air France, AZ - Alitalia , BA - British Airways, DU - Hemus Air, FB - Bulgaria Air, LH - Lufthansa, LO - Lot Polish Airlines, MA - Malev Hungarian Airlines , OA - Olympic Airways, OS - Austrian Airlines, OK - Czech Airlines, RO - Tarom Romanian Airlines, TK - Turkish Airlines For further information call tel. 937 22 11, 937 22 12. Buses Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara) F-7, bul. Maria Luiza 100, tel. 0900 21 000, fax 813 31 44, www. centralnaavtogara.bg. Opened in 2004, Sofia’s sparkly glass-fronted bus terminal is everything that the train station fails to be: bright, clean, and well furnished with toilets, cafes, and nappy-changing areas so delightful that we almost wish we still wore them. Finding out where to buy a ticket can be a bit of a hassle: a main ticket counter handles most services, but there are over 40 smaller sales desks serving individual bus companies - some of these offer a wide range of popular destinations in Bulgaria and abroad, while others operate a once-in-a-blue-moon service to Outer Mongolia and precious little else. An information desk near the entrance may direct you to the ticket desk you require, but only if the staff are in a good mood. There are plenty of companies here offering direct services to European cities: doing international trips by bus is usually faster and more comfortable than by train. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Ovcha kupel G-6, bul. Ovcha kupel 1, tel. 955 53 62. Several domestic services to destinations south of Sofia (such as Dupnitsa, Rila Monastery and Melnik) leave from Ovcha kupel bus station, 5km southwest of the centre. To get there take tram No. 5 from ul. Alabin or tram No. 19 from the Central Station. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30. Trafik-Market F-7, bul. Maria Luiza, tel. 981 29 79. Many international bus services (including plenty to Mace- donia and Greece) leave from this parking lot immediately to the west of the Central Bus Station. There’s a timetable board detailing departures, a confusion of kiosks selling tickets for individual services, and plenty of shops and cafés. There aren’t any other facilities on offer here, but as you’re only a stone’s throw away from the train and bus stations, this shouldn’t be a hardship. Bus schedule Bansko (3hr), 07:30, 08:30, 09:45, 13:15, 14:00, 16:45. Burgas (6-7hr), 07:00, 07:30, 08:30, 09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 16:30, 17:00, 18:00, 20:30, 22:30. Melnik 14:00 Ruse (5hr), 07:00, 08:00, 08:30, 09:30, 10:30, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 14;30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00, 19:00. Sandanski 07:40, 07:55, 09;00, 10:00, 10:30, 11:20, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00. Varna (7hr), 06:30, 07:30, 09:00, 09:45, 11:00, 11:30, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14.30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17;30, 18:00, 19:00, 22:30, 00:00, 00:30. Veliko Tarnovo (4hr), 06:30, 07:30, 08:00, 08:30, 09:00, 09:45, 10:30, 11:00, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14:30, 15:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:00, 19:00, 22:30, 00:30. October - December 2008 58 getting around Yug G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 23, tel. 872 23 45. This hard-to-find bus station hidden beneath a road bridge is the place to catch buses to the town of Samokov southeast of Sofia, which is in turn the main jumping-off point for the ski resort of Borovets. To reach the bus station take tram No.18 to the Hotel Moskva and walk the remaining 400m down Dragan Tsankov. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Olympic Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 55, tel. 981 45 45, fax 980 10 50, sofia@olympicair-bg. com, www.olympicairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkish Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 11A, tel. 988 35 96, fax 980 41 51, thu-sof-sat@medicom.bg, www.thy.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport Sofia International Airport (Letishte Sofia) G-9, tel. 937 22 11/937 22 12, public@sofia-airport.bg, www. sofia-airport.bg. Located 10km east of the city centre, Sofia Airport consists of two terminals, the grotty Terminal 1 and the recently opened Terminal 2. Bulgaria Air and British Airways have already moved to Terminal 2 and other carriers may soon follow - so double-check which terminal you need before setting out (the terminals are not within walking distance of each other). Both terminals have limited eating, drinking and shopping facilities, so try not to leave your souvenir-buying duties until the last minute. To get to the airport from the city centre, a properly metred taxi shouldn’t cost more than about 10Lv (€5). Otherwise head for Orlov Most (C-3) and take bus No 84 to Terminal 1, or No 284 to Terminal 2. Taxis There are over 15,000 taxis in Sofia: some of these are rusty crates driven by frustrated rally drivers; the majority are roadworthy vehicles operated by more-or-less reputable companies. Legitimate taxis are coloured yellow and have an oval sticker on the windscreen; they also display a square sticker indicating the rates in BGN. Charges are supposed to be metered, but some drivers will switch the meter off and demand an inflated fare if they think you’re a gullible foreigner. By law a receipt should be issued for every taxi ride you take, although in practice this doesn’t always happen. Officially at least the charges are cheap, ranging from 0.59Lv - 0.70Lv per kilometre during the daytime to 0.70Lv - 0.80Lv per kilometre at night. The agreeing of flat-rate fares beforehand is a common practice, even in licensed cabs, especially for destinations outside the city limits. A tip of 10-15% is common practice. Most taxis hang around at the big intersections, although you can order them by phone - just don’t expect to get through to an English-speaker (you can always ask your hotel receptionist to do it for you). Don’t be surprised if your driver doesn’t have a detailed knowledge of the city and asks you for directions. Few drivers speak any foreign language. You’d be well advised to stick to the taxi companies recommended below in order to keep overcharging problems to a minimum, although you’re unlikely to survive without being ripped off at least once during your stay. Airlines Aeroflot B-5, ul. Oborishte 23, tel. 943 44 89, fax 946 17 03, sofrepr@aeroflot.ru, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen Aerosvit A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, tel. 980 78 80, aerosvit@nettisat.bg, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 70 35, mail.sofia@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 5, tel. 981 67 02, fax 981 67 04, info.sofia@alitalia.it, www.alitalia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian Airlines G-7, ul. Zlaten rog 12, tel. 806 00 00, fax 962 42 40, sofia.office@aua.com, www.austrianairlines.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 33. Open 07:00-18:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 49, tel. 954 70 00, fax 954 80 00, retailsales.1.sofia@britishairways.com, www.britishairways.com. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 31 11. Open 09:00-17:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria Air D-2, Transport Service Centre, underpass of NDK, tel. 402 04 06, fax 986 24 88, tickets@air.bg, www.air.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 937 33 70. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Czech Airlines B-3, ul. Saborna 9, tel. 981 54 08, fax 981 13 86, csasofia@tea.bg, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hemus Air C-2, ul. Gladston 32, tel. 981 83 30, fax 981 54 57, reservations@hemusair.bg, www.hemusair.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 942 02 13. Open 08:30-19:00 QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. LOT Polish Airlines B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 27A, tel. 987 45 62, fax 980 32 93, a.petrov@lot.pl, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lufthansa B-3, Platinium Business Center, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 930 42 42, fax 981 29 11, soflh@ mobikom.com, www.lufthansa.com. Sofia Airport G-9. tel. 937 31 41. Open 05:00-20:00 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Malev Hungarian Airlines C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 19, tel. 981 50 91, fax 981 50 96, sofia@malev.hu, www. malev.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Air France B-3, ul. Saborna 5, tel. 939 70 10, fax 939 Car rental reservations@avis.bg, www.avis.bg. Sofia Airport G-9, tel.945 92 24. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Avis F-6, ul. Orion 84, tel. 826 11 00, fax 827 30 57, CarRent G-9, bul. Iskarsko shose 13, tel. 960 14 08/0888 221 600, fax 960 14 46, carrent@promobile.bg, www.carrent.bg. Free delivery/collection 24hours/day, 7days/week. Car Rental Bulgaria H-9, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 180, Gastrade building, tel. 974 36 63, fax 974 18 81, office@carrental.bg, www.carrental.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Budget airlines Germanwings tel. 0044 8702 521 250, www. germanwings.com. Myair tel. 0044 2073 651 597, info@myair.com, www.myair.com. Sky Europe tel. 489 48 99, www.skyeurope. com. Wizzair tel. 960 38 88, www.wizzair.com. Sofia In Your Pocket getting around Drenikov B-5, ul. Oborishte 55, tel. 944 95 32, fax QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Hertz H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 1A, second 944 95 48, office@drenikov.com, www.drenikov.com. 59 floor, tel. 439 0 222, fax 439 0 148, office@hertz.bg, www.hertz.bg. Sofia Airport, Arrivals hall G-9, tel. 945 92 17. Open 08:30 - 23:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tany 97 G-8, ul. Anton Chehov 69, tel. 970 85 00, reservations@tany97.com, www.tany97.com. Sofia Airport G-9, tel. 0889 998 998. Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Thrifty Car Rental F-8, ul. Kozlodui 4, tel. 931 60 00, fax 931 60 09, reservations@thrifty.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Travel agencies Alma Tour B-3, ul. Serdika 12, tel. 805 68 00/981 31 Jamadvice Travel Ltd. G-8, ul. Asen Zlatarov 10, 38, outgoing@almatour.net, incoming@almatour.net, airtickets@almatour.net, www.almatournet. tel. 943 30 11, fax 946 12 61, mark@btibulgaria.com. International airline tickets and business travel. Lyuba Tours D-4, ul. Tsanko Tserkovski 22, tel. 963 33 43, fax 963 31 42, info@lyubatours.com, www. lyubatours.com. Small-group weekend trips within Bulgaria to places of historical, cultural and ethnographic interest. Polytours Tsar Asen 61, tel. 981 12 22, fax 980 41 25, tours@polytours.com, www.polytours.com. QOpen 9:00 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Stars travel C-2, ul. Khan Asparuh 57, tel. 811 47 81, fax 811 47 82, office@starstravel.info, www.starstravel. info. International airline tickets and business travel Usit Colours C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 35, tel. 981 19 00, fax 981 99 91, sofia@usitcolours.bg, www.usitcolours. bg. Specialists in youth and student travel. Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 20V, tel. 980 51 02, fax 980 32 00, info@zigzagbg.com, www.zigzagbg.com. Bulgarian independent travel specialists organizing hiking trips, B&B reservations, car rental, and tailor-made excursions into the great outdoors. ZIP Travel C-1, bul. Praga 8, tel. 917 59 30, fax 917 59 49, sofia@ziptravel.bg, www.ziptravel.bg. International company specialised in student travel and training, exchange programs and low price air tickets. Taxi companies OK Supertrans tel. 973 21 21. Radio CV Taxi tel. 9 12 63. Ricars Taxi tel. 9 11 14. Sofiataxi tel. 974 47 47. Taxi S Express tel. 9 12 80. October - December 2008 60 shopping Sofia’s smartest shops - including any number of international designer outlets - jostle for attention along either side of bul. Vitosha, the city’s main north-south pedestrian, trams and police only, shopping street. Mainstream clothes, domestic and electrical stores can also be found in abundance along consumer-clogged streets like ul. Graf Ignatiev and ul. Pirotska. Ploshtad Aleksandur Nevski Antiques & Collectables 35 08, vanili_@abv.bg, www.antikvariatzlatorog.com. Offering everything from chintzy crockery to dressing-tables, wardrobes and hat-stands, Zlatorog is a must-visit for retrofurnishing freaks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Camera Classics A-3, ul. Serdika 28, tel. 981 71 77. Vintage cameras, photographic bits and pieces of every description. A real treasure trove for true enthusiasts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Letostrui C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 9, tel. 988 18 81. Furniture, porcelain and other oddments. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Strash A-3, ul. Tsar Simeon 41A, tel. 983 93 08. If you collect stamps, old postcards or vintage cartoons, this is your place. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Viga Antiques B-3, ul. Alabin 50, tel. 980 54 07. Antiques from folk costumes to clocks. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Antikvariat Zlatorog A-4, ul. Pop Bogomil 10, tel. 983 Ploshtad Aleksandar Nevski B-4, . Open-air bric-a-brac market offering communist-era medals, stamps, postcards, junk from granny’s attic, and some genuine antiques. Lace-makers and embroiderers sell their wares at the eastern end of the strip on the corner of pl. Aleksandur Nevski and ul. 11 August. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Helikon C-2, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 68, tel. 987 19 19, bigbookshop@helikon.bg, www.helikon.bg. Browserfriendly bookstore on three floors with a smattering of Englishlanguage titles, international guide books including Rough Guides, and a small cafe where readings are sometimes held. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30. A Interkniga B-5, ul. Shipka 6, tel. 944 41 41. Inside the headquarters of the Bulgarian Artists’ Union, this bookshop has lots of full-colour art books, and some English-language paperbacks. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Knigomania B-1, Mall of Sofia, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101, tel. 980 52 14, office@knigomania.bg, www.knigomania.bg. Bright modern browser-friendly bookstore with a good selection of English-language paperbacks, international guidebooks, and maps. Also sells CDs and DVDs. QOpen 10:0 - 22:00. Nissim Books C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 59, tel. 981 19 12, info@nissimbooks.com, www.nissimbooks.com. Charming cubby-hole with a few English titles. All the staff are book enthusiasts and they will gladly try and seek out rare or unsual tomes that can’t be found elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Sun. Orange C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 18, tel. 980 82 07, porange@cablebg.net. Multi-media store with four floors of stationer y, toys, books, CDs and games. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Ploshtad Slaveykov Books Booktrading C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 50, tel. 981 04 48. One of the best of the high-street bookstores, with a good selection of English, French and German paperbacks, ar t books, and international guidebooks (Eyewitness, Rough Guides and more). QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Ploshtad Slaveykov C-3, . This long rectangular square is home to a hugely enjoyable book market. If your language skills aren’t quite up to the latest in Bulgarian fiction then you can at least browse your way through lavishly illustrated books on Bulgarian culture, or pick up the Bulgarian-English phrasebook you always pined for. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. Sofia In Your Pocket shopping Traditzia 61 Traditzia C-3, bul. Vasil Levski 36, tel. 981 77 65, 20, tel. 980 51 02. This independent travel agent has a better selection of maps of Bulgaria than any other shop we’ve encountered in the capital. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Zig Zag Holidays B-2, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski office@traditzia.bg, www.traditzia.bg. In terms of quality and variety, Traditzia is about as good as Sofia’s gift shops get. Founded seven years ago by volunteers from Sofia’s international community, it is a fair-trade souvenir and crafts store which stocks a diverse range of textiles, ceramics, hand-made greetings cards, glassware and jewellery. Most importantly, purchases made here contribute to good causes: many of the items on display are made by children in social institutions, people with disabilities and artisans in remote villages. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Flowers Bouquet C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 988 51 97. Phone orders taken on tel. 098 14 14. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Feite C-3, ul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 18 10. Also at ul. Graf Ignatiev 41. Elegant gift packaging. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Tsvetna magia B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris I 99, tel. 980 47 83, info@flowersmagic.com, www.flowersmagic.com. Clothes & Accessories locally-made clothes for the slightly off-the-wall trendsetter, plus lots of eccentric accoutrements. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Atelie Mirela Bratova C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 4, tel. 980 71 56. Stylish bohemian fashion creations from the inspired Ms Bratova, and aura-emanating ethno-pendants by Daniela Andreevska. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kailash C-3, ul. 6-ti Septemvri 28. Indian textiles and jewellery, woolly hats from Nepal, and pointy-toed slippers for the Ali-Baba look that we all secretly crave. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Kanela C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 59. Small but chic collection of domestic designer woolens, and some imaginative necklaces and bracelets. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Muhomorka C-3, ul. Ivan Shishman 45, tel. 958 29 85, www.muhomorka.biz. Aladdin’s cave of colourful clothes and eastern-influenced textiles. They also sell large-format cigarette papers but we don’t understand what these might be used for. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Paradise Garage B-2, ul. Karnigradska. Stylish and individualistic casual wear dangling not-too-expensive price-tags from young Bulgarian designers. There’s also a choice of characterful if not to say eccentric bags and accessories, including the kinky-looking punk-porno toys made by Zona Urbana. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. The Earth Collection B-2, ul. Karnigradska 13. For the first time in Bulgaria the well known brand of environmentally friendly clothes made of 100% refined natural fabrics mixing raw silk, cotton, ramie, hemp and linen. Lightweight, breathable, long lasting and elegant clothes. Garments with versability, wearability and comfort. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. 525 C-4, ul. Ivan Shishman 8, tel. 980 64 10. Snazzy, Gifts & Souvenirs crockery, embroidered tablecloths, and Turkish-style copper coffee pots to decorate that designer Balkan peasant kitchen of your dreams. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Carpet House/Tchu kilim A-4, ul. Rakovski 38, tel. 983 66 09, contacts@tchukilim.com, www.tchukilim. com. Looks like a regular domestic carpet shop from the outside but is also Sofia’s leading outlet for authentic all-wool kilims made in the weaving town of Chiprovtsi. With a selection of small rugs in stock, they also take orders for kilims if you have a couple of months to spare. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Ethnographic Museum Shop B-3, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1. Folk costumes, traditional crockery, ethno jewellery and music CDs. It’s one of the best places to buy Bulgarian kilims - at 160Lv per square metre they’re probably more expensive here than in their villages of origin, but authentic and affordable handiwork nevertheless. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Galeria Gaya C-5, ul. Krakra 19, tel. 0884 177 005, syana@gayabg.com, www.gayabg.com. Handmade greetings cards and wonderfully outlandish ceramics make this a great place to seek out gifts for the arty individualist in your life. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Balgarski dyukyan A-2, ul. Pirotska 11. Enough folksy October - December 2008 62 shopping Kikka B-5, ul. Shipka 28. Contemporary ceramics from earnest clay-pummelling types. Affordable domestic items as well as more upmarket sculptural pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:30. Punto C-4, ul. Yuri Venelin 12, tel. 986 39 31. Classy designer jewellery made by local artists, alongside a big range of affordable brooches, beads, earrings and other fashion trinkets. Also curious ceramics, small-format oil paintings and reproduction icons. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30. Closed Sun. Spoluka C-3, ul. Gladston 46. Brightly coloured mugs and pots by Bulgarian ceramicists, perfumed candles, and other kook y gi f ts. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Tera Bulgara C-5, ul. San Stefano 22A. Craft items, textiles and rugs. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Zekman B-4, ul. Rakovski 88. A smaller range of folk costumes and kilims than the Ethnographic Museum Shop, but valuable antique pieces often turn up. On the expensive side. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Music shops 27, www.Z043.org. Everything about this hell-hole screams of bloody metal! From the millions of skulls on the shelves and the thundering sounds, ravaging the stereo, to the metalheads, round the corner, who will always test your “metal-ness”, before even talking to you. CD-s, t-shirts, accessoires and rock memorabilia… and that Motorhead shirt you’ve always wanted. They just have it all! QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 19:00. Closed Sun. SMF Music Hunter C-2, ul. William Gladstone 30A, tel. 981 60 76, www.smf-bg.com. The most extensive collection of CD-s, DVD-s and T-shirts with unreadable band logos. Almost every important album in rock, punk metal and enough bloody and satanic CD-sleeves to give you nightmares for the rest of your life… QOpen 10:30 - 20:00, Sat 10.30 - 19.30. Closed Sun. Vision A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. 983 55 09. One of the oldest shops for music t-shirt and accessories in Sofia. They offer spray-cans for graffiti and can dress you up as a street maniac from head to toe. There is also a tattoo parlour in the basement. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11.30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 0.4.3. (O.Ch.Z.) B-2, ul.Tri Ushi 3, tel. 981 72 Hypermarkets HIT H-8, Mladost-2 ul. Aleksander Malinov 75, tel. 817 51 00, hit-info@hit-hypermarket.bg, www.hit-hypermarket.bg. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Kauf land H-8, Mladost -3 ul. Philip Avramov 3, tel. 0800 12 220, customer.ser vices@kauf land. bg, w w w.kaufland.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 9:00. Metro cash & carry G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 7, tel. 0700 100 71, info@Metro.bg, www.metro.bg. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Photography Kodak Express C-3, pl. Slaveykov 11, tel. 987 00 74. Develops your holiday snaps in a jiffy as well as selling film of all kinds and a range of professional kit. QOpen 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Jewellery avi-center.com, www.avi-center.com. High quality gold, diamonds and platinum jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. El Grado C-3, bul. Vassil Levski 61, tel. 986 24 80. Gold, silver, precious stones, orders of unique examples, repairs. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Shopping centres 85, pr@ccs-mall.com, www.ccs-mall.com. Glossy consumerist temple comprising 3 storeys of shops (including Bulgaria’s first Marks & Spencer), a cinema, and a floor of food options including sushi bar and a brace of Italian restaurants. The ground-floor newspaper kiosk is a good place to pick up English-language press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTALK Avi Center B-2, Vitosha 18B, tel. 930 70 70, office@ City Center Sofia E-2, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. 865 72 Sofia In Your Pocket shopping 24hr food and drink Familia C-3, bul. Rakovski 147, tel. 980 71 05. Fantastiko B-5, bul. Madrid 8, tel. 988 65 90. Magazin 345 B-3, ul. Veslets 4, tel. 988 98 75. Mall of Sofia B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 101. 63 Markets Graf Ignatiev C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev. More bananas QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. Rimska stena D-4, ul. Hristo Smirnenski. One of than you can shake a cucumber at, and vice-versa. Sofia’s newest shopping mecca is an enormous retail, business and entertainment centre boasting over 130 shops (many selling international brand-names), fancy cafés and restaurants, and a 12-screen multiplex cinema. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTAK TZUM B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 2. Three floors of expensive fashion, accessories and cosmetics, and a first-floor café where young ladies like to sit and pout after a tiring day looking at clothes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 20:00. PK the liveliest food markets, worth visiting for the piece of preserved Byzantine fortress wall which sticks up amidst the stalls. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Sitnyakovo bul. Shipchenski prohod. Fresh produce market popular with the expat community - you might well find the kind of exotic fruit and vegetables that doesn’t turn up elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Zhenski pazar A-2, ul. Stefan Stambolov. Vast open-air bazaar selling flowers, foodstuffs, cheap clothes, broomsticks, spare parts to machines you never even knew existed, and kitchen sinks. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. you’ll probably be drawn into buying more once you catch sight of the riches behind the counter. Custards, tarts, cakes and hand-made chocolates will appeal to the sweet-toothed, while mini-quiches are perfect for a more traditional lunch-snack. There’s a small sit-down area for those who want to linger over a cup of tea or coffee, but do be warned that the longer you spend hanging around here, the more things you will be tempted into buying. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Cheers B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 986 18 56. Finest tobacco and cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, brand alcohol, selected wines. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Loza C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 19, tel. 980 28 00. Great selection of fine Bulgarian wines and brandies. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:30. Magazin za vreme i chay B-2, ul. Knyaz Boris 65. Shelf upon shelf of speciality teas from all over the world, including seducti ve long-leaved green varieties from China, and plenty of traditional Bulgarian herbal infusions. There’s also a small selection of oriental spices including ginger, cardamom, and a few things we couldn’t quite identify -judging by the aroma it would be 100% safe to throw them in a curry. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Poeschl Tabak B-2, ul. Solunska 23, tel. 981 18 49. Fine tobacco for pipes and cigarettes, cigars, snuff, accessories for smokers. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Sports equipment 727, www.makalusport.com. Specialized climbing and mountaineering equipment. Information about trekking, hikking, climbing and caving in Bulgaria. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Stenata B-2, ul. Bratya Miladinovi 5, tel. 980 54 91, www.stenata.com. Everything you might need for hiking, camping, climbing and caving. Friendly advice from experts. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Makalu sport B-1, ul. Vladayska 23, tel. 0878 988 Supermarkets Billa G-7, ul. Sofiyski Geroy 4, tel. 951 52 66. Aisle upon QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Piccadilly E-2, City Center Sofia, bul. Arsenalski 2, tel. aisle of international food and drink. Pile your trolley high. 819 45 67, fax 819 45 55, www.piccadilly.bg. Pretty much everything you need for your weekly shop is in here somewhere. Big deli counter, freshly baked bread, and aisle upon aisle of alcohol. Another at B-1, Mall of Sofia. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Tobacco & Drinks 100 grama sladki C-3, ul. Angel Kanchev 18A, tel. 980 40 62. The name of this treasure trove of a shop literally means ‘one hundred grams of sweets’, although October - December 2008 64 health & lifestyle 24hr pharmacies 24-hour home deliveries within 1 hour. Saldzhi C-2, bul. Vitosha 35, tel. 980 58 96. Sofiiski Apteki B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 5, tel. 987 50 89. Hospitals 915 44 11. Emergency tel. 150. Sofia’s main hospital for emergencies. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Tokuda G-7, bul. N. Vaptsarov 51B, tel. 403 40 00, fax 403 40 10, info@tokudabolnica.bg, www.tokudabolnica.bg. Galen B-1, bul. Skobelev 1, tel. 951 66 32. Pharmatel G-8, bul. G.M.Dimitrov 1, tel. 962 22 22. Isul A-5, ul. Byalo More 8, tel. 943 21 70/943 21 32. Pirogov (Multiprofile Hospital of Active Treatment and Emergency Medicine) G-7, bul. Totleben 21, tel. Babysitting Andinele Home Care Agency , tel. 865 03 55, andinele@abv.bg. English-speaking child minders, cooking, washing and shopping. International schools dost-2, tel. 974 34 35, fax 974 31 29, acs@acs.bg, www. acs.bg. Private secondary school founded in 1860 - the oldest American educational institution outside the USA. American English Academy G-8, bul. Prof. Tsvetan Lazarov 10, tel. 978 01 36, fax 978 01 53, aestaff@ cablebg.net, www.aea-bg.com. Classes from kindergarten to grade 12. Anglo-American School of Sofia G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. 974 45 75, fax 974 44 83, aasdirector@infotel. bg, www.aas-sofia.org. School founded in 1967 by the American and British embassies. Deutsche Schule Erich Kaestner F-6, Lyulin-VI, tel. 824 48 59, fax 925 08 38, kestnerschool@econ.bg, www.kestnerschool.com. German language school - kindergarten, primary and secondary school. The French school E-3, bul. Sveti Naum, tel. 963 29 64, lfsofia@vhugo.org, www.vhugo.org. American College of Sofia H-8, Floyd Black Lane, Mla- Beauty salons Charmant C-1, ul. Sveti Ivan Rilski 15, tel. 952 34 30, charmant@bhc.orbitel.bg, www.charmant.bg. Thalasso treatments, massage, manicure and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Visages B-2, bul. Vitosha 50, tel. 988 42 51. QOpen 09:00 - 09:00. Yves Rocher Beauty Center C-2, bul. Vitosha 63, tel. 987 99 10. Various cosmetic services with quality products. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Mon, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Bulgarian language courses G-8, ul. Kosta Lulchev 27, tel. 871 00 69, fax 870 53 28, office@deo.uni-sofia.bg, www.deo.uni-sofia.bg. The only certified centre for testing of Bulgarian as foreign language. Sofia University Department of Language Learning Kindergartens Dragalevtsi, tel. 967 31 12. Accepts children between the ages of 2-6. Uwekind G-6, Boyana ul. 612 4, tel. 857 51 00/857 20 00, www.uwekind.com. A privately run kindergarten and school whit a half day German programme. International children`s creativity center H-7, Catering 83, info@mdmcatering.com, www.mdmcatering.com. Business and corporate catering. Megalux Catering B-5, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 71, tel. 943 45 53, fax 846 84 46, megalux@mail.bg, www. megalux-bg.com. Corporate catering and parties. MDM Catering F-7, ul. Strandzha 132, tel. 833 40 Laboratories Closed Sun. Bodimed B-2, ul. Pozitano 24, tel. 986 66 76, www. bodimed.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Dentists fax 988 19 92, judent@mbox.bol.bg, www.juniordent. com. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Medstom Clinic B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 26B, tel. 988 44 04, fax 988 31 80, medstom@abv.bg, www.medstom. com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Nedyalkov Dental Clinics D-3, ul. Lyuben Karavelov 90, tel. 963 15 05, www.kliniki-nedialkov.com. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. T.Kanchev A-5, bul. Gen. Danail Nikolaev 10, tel./fax 843 56 58. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Biocheck A-3, ul. Ekzarh Yosif 31, tel. 911 83, fax 983 33 93. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Dental Clinic B-3, ul. Ivan Vazov 5, tel. 987 84 24. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Juniordent C-4, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 1, tel. 988 31 75, Libraries fax 942 42 22, bc.sofia@britishcouncil.org, www. britishcouncil.org/bulgaria.htm. Up-to-date newspapers, magazines, and lots of lovely books. QOpen . Closed Sat, Sun. Open: 09:00 - 12:00 & 14:00 - 17:00 French Cultural Institute B-3, ul. Dyakon Ignatiy 2, tel. 937 79 22, fax 980 94 98, www.institutfrance.bg. Bookstore and library. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Goethe-Institut Sofia B-4, ul. Budapeshta 1, tel. 939 01 00, fax 939 01 99, info@sofia.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/sofia. German language library. QOpen , Mon, Fri 10:00 - 14:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Instituto Cervantes Sofia B-3, ul. Saborna 1, tel. 810 45 00, fax 980 26 28, censof@cervantes.es, sofia. cervantes.es. Spanish cultural centre. QOpen closed, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. British Council B-5, ul. Krakra 7, tel. 942 43 44, Hairdressers 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Stylist Kapanov C-2, bul. Hristo Botev 14, tel. 951 63 88, fax 953 30 12, botev@kapanov.net, www.kapanov. net. One of the best in the business. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kalo Hair Studio B-2, bul. Vitosha 12, tel. 987 01 54, kalohair@mail.bg, www.kalohairstudio.com. QOpen Sofia In Your Pocket health & lifestyle Opticians Cari Optics C-3, pl. Slaveykov 7, tel. 989 21 26, fax 981 84 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Fox B-4, bul. Dondukov 26 A, tel. 986 40 32, office@ foxoptics.com, www.foxoptics.com. QOpen 10:00 - 65 Relax Center Bliasak 07:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Opticlasa C-2, bul. Vitosha 40, tel. 988 34 86. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 10:30 - 19:00, Sun 11:30 - 17:30. Party organisers Party House B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 30, tel. 981 62 50, office@partyhouse-bg.com, www.partyhouse-bg.com. Corporate events, private parties, children’s shows and costume rental. Party Service G-7, ul. Bogatitsa 36, tel. 964 15 00, fax 963 56 25, info@partyservice-bg.com, www. partyservice-bg.com. Event planners and caterers. Red Devil B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 205, tel. 0700 14 700, fax 920 12 34, office@reddevilcatering. com, www.reddevilcatering.com. Complete organisation of all kinds of parties. Private medical clinics St. Panteleymon H-8, zh-k Mladost 3 bul. Aleksandur Malinov 63, tel. 974 10 00, fax 974 44 50, info@sphospital.com, www.sphospital.com. Specializing Surgery Hospital. Thorax Clinics B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliyski 57, tel. 912 85, mail@thorax.bg, www.thorax.bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Vita Medical Center G-8, ul. Dragovitsa 9, tel. 943 43 98, fax 944 13 43, vita@intech.bg, www.vita.bg. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. G-8, ul. Kalimantsi 19, tel. 973 36 68/0885 892 000, 2brelaxbliasak@gmail.com, www.saloni-bliasak.com. Offers finnish sauna, steam b ooth, IR b ooth, sera glio, massage, cosmetics, manicure, pedicure, energy bar, mesotherapy, oxygen therapy, peeling, fillers, botox, laser epilation, hot stone therapy, SPA procedures, solarium. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Relax Center Bliasak Tattoo & Piercing Getting a tattoo can be a life-changing experience, or just another cartoon on you to fight boredom with. In Sofia, tattooing is much cheaper and as good as anywhere in the world. Bring your bravery, positive attitude and ideas with you and leave everything to the tattoo artist. Tattoo people are an underground breed of their own and sometimes have strange ethics and code of life, so treat them with respect. Ignore their prison-style looks and remember that they are professionals in the ancient rituals of desecrating the flesh. They can also make enough piercings on your body, to trigger any airport metal detector! Religious services Baptist Church G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov Methodist Church C-3, ul. Rakovski 86, tel. 986 41 125, tel. 981 55 48. Daily liturgy at 07:30 and 17:30. Sat, Sun 11:30 in Latin. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. 36, tel. 971 17 50. Worship services and teaching sessions in English. 63. Sunday liturgy from 10:00. St Joseph’s Catholic Church C-2, ul. Knyaz Boris Security 3, tel. 976 091, fax 975 18 40, office@bg.g4s.com. Provides full range of products and services related to safety and security. Ipon-1 Ltd. D-3, ul. Rakovski 209, tel. 981 45 48, fax 963 33 79, ipon_1@abv.bg. Personal protection, encashment services, sites security. Security Group Alpha G-9, bul. Iskursko shose 12, tel. 979 05 59, fax 979 06 55, office@alphabg.com, www. alphabg.com. Physical and technical security. Group 4 Securitas H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building Vets Avitsena Veterinary Clinic F-7, ul. Naicho Tsanov, block 114, tel. 822 01 49. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Dr. Antov Veterinary Clinic E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 4, tel. 868 95 94, vetclinic@abv.bg, www.vetbg.com.. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 398 940, www.nuanceartstudio.com. Placed in the calmer corners of the centre, this is not the typical hellhole of a studio, but an arty, colourful place. Still an occasional demon can always come out of the needle! Kravay Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimiy 43, tel. 0885 757 819. Just across the ugliest monument in Sofia, there is a little window and a bell button. Ring on it and get some true blue ink! Monica Tattoo & Body piercing Studio C-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 34B, tel. 0897 310 677/0888 123 424. A spacious studio where extreme people hang out and get their inks done. Drink some beers, play some darts and table soccer and get some beauty under your skin! Just don’t say the name of the soccer team C.S.K.A. and everything will be O.K. Vision Tattoo & Bodypiercing Studio A-3, bul. Maria Luiza 55, tel. 0889 813 120. In the dark alley hides a basement, where the magic of color happens! Artstudio “Nuance”- tattoo, piercing and airbrush A-1, ul. Opalchenska 78, tel. 831 58 85/0889 October - December 2008 66 sports Bowling 90, fax 916 65 64, galaxybowling@gmail.com, www. galaxybowling.eu. Centrally-located club with 6 lanes. Also offers billiards and video games. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. From 2 leva per game. Mega Xtreme Bowling Center H-8, Studentski Grad, ul. Akademik Boris Stefanov 12, tel. 969 26 00, bowling_mega@yahoo.com. Popular 18-alley bowling centre packed with students from the nearby dorms of Studentski Grad, 6km southeast of the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. From 3 leva per game. P Golf Golf Club Air Sofia B-4, ul. 6-i septemvri 1 /office/, tel. 981 09 25, golf@golf-bg.com, www.golf-bg.com. Eighteen-hole course with a Par 71 rating. A round here costs 50Lv per person. Equipment rental available on site. They might even pick you up from your hotel in Sofia. In addition: fully staffed riding stables with 10 horses, football and basketball playgrounds, fitness club, hotel and restaurant. Q AFK St.Sofia Golf Club & SPA C-5, bul. Tsarigradsko Shose 9 /office/, tel. 943 45 05, fax 943 45 04, office@stsofiagolf.com, www.stsofiagolf.com. In Ravno Pole village - 15 minutes drive southeast of the city centre. Eighteen hole course with English-speaking management. Galaxy Bowling Club D-2, bul. Bulgaria 1, tel. 916 65 Dance club Pambos Dancing Centre B-3, pl. Garibaldi 2, tel. 0888 354 771, maria@pambos.info, www.pambos.info. Salsa, flamenco and Greek dances. Raul Torres Dance School C-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 3, tel. 0898 971 083, raultorres@abv.bg, www.torresdance.com. Salsa, rumba, guaguanco, mambo, cha-cha, guaracha, samba and merenge, hip-hop and modern ballet. Ice-rinks Sport Complex Slavia G-8, bul. Tsar Boris III 128, tel. 856 49 75. Admission 4Lv. Skate rental 3Lv. QOpen , Wed, Fri 18:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu. Extreme sports Air Sport Flight School B-1, ul. 20-i april 20, tel. 951 56 43, info@airsport.bg, www.airsport.bg. Training for ultra-light private pilots and aerobatic flights. Certified flight instructors. Cross The Line B-2, ul. Tsar Samuil 38, tel. 987 90 89, crosstheline@abv.bg, www.crossthelinebg.com. Alpinism, mountain climbing, caving. Sky Mania H-8, Studentski grad, bl. 15, tel. 868 20 66, delta_sky@hotmail.com, www.sky-jet.com. Paragliding courses, flying equipment. Vertical World G-6, ul. 711-ta 3, Knyazhevo, tel. 0888 484 700, vertical_world_bg@yahoo.com, www.verticalworldbg.com. Bungee jumping, alpinism, caving and trekking. Training and equipment provided. H-8, Studentski grad, tel. 868 73 34. Out amongst the high-rise dorms of Sofia’s “student city”, 7km southeast of the centre. Admission fee: 2Lv, plus a couple more leva for skate rental. QOpen , Wed 17:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 18:45. Winter Sport Palace (Zimen dvorets na sporta) Indoor swimming pools Spartak E-1, bul. Arsenalski 4, tel. 865 64 71. Popular pool next door to the Harmony Sofia hotel. QOpen 07:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Sport Palace C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 75, tel. 930 05 02. Most central of the pools and correspondingly popular. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Paintball Paintball Bulgaria , tel. 928 11 25, alex@paintballbulgaria.com, www.paintballbulgaria.com. Paintball games on and around Mount Vitosha just south of Sofia. Q 16 Lv per game with 100 balls. Fitness & Spa athletic-bg.com, www.athletic-bg.com. Group classes in ashtanga, step, pilates, and aerobics. Also offers sauna, solarium, massage and beauty treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. KD Boyana Diplomatic Club & Spa H-6, ul. Vasil Chekalarov 51, Boyana, tel. 957 10 65, boyana@dclub.bg, www. dclub.bg. Indoor swimming pool, tennis courts, fitness hall, sauna, jaccuzi, massage. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. KLT Fitness Central Park C-5, ul. Sheinovo 7, tel. 942 31 10, info@fitnesscentralpark.com, www.fitnesscentralpark.com. Boasting a fully equipped gym and a variety of machines to suit all body fat percentages, it also calls itself a beauty club offering manicure and a cosmetics room, a solarium, sauna, steam bath and massage. There is a dance floor which offers a varied program, some of the more popular being MTV dance and street Jazz. Most of the young, healthy staff speak Enlish and genuinely seem to enjoy their job. There is also a small cafe for recuperating in afterwards. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. PA Relax Center Blyasak G-8, ul.Kalimantsi 19, tel. 973 36 68/0885 892 000, 2brelaxbliasak@gmail.com, www.saloni-bliasak.com. A pleasant place which offers luxurious aromatherapy treatments for face and body, shiatsu massage, hot stone therapy, SPA procedures, solarium. Friendly staff at Relax Center take expert care of your look from top to toe. Try also the Turkish bath and Finnish sauna. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Athletic G-8, ul. Oborishte 22, tel. 489 08 71, reklama@ Stadium Natsionalen Stadion Vasil Levski C-5, Borisova gradina, tel. 930 06 66/930 07 51. Stadion Bulgarska Armia D-5, Borisova Gradina, tel. 963 34 77. Stadion Georgi Asparuhov - Gerena F-8, kv.Suhata reka, tel. 945 30 46. Stadion Lokomotiv F-7, kv.Nadezhda, tel. 936 03 56. Stadion Slavia G-6, kv. Ovcha Kupel, tel. 980 05 08/980 49 87. Tennis & Squash Academic Tennis Club ul. Nezabravka 3-5, tel. 870 01 36, info@utcakademic.com, www.utcakademic.com. Outdoor and indoor courts with professional trainers. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. FKD Easy Club Squash & Fitness H-8, Studentski grad, tel. 962 22 23, info@easy-club.org, www.easy-club. org. Equipped with two squash courts and fitness hall. Highly qualified trainers. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. D Maleevi Tennis Club G-7/8, bul. Nikola Vapzarov 57, tel. 962 22 88, info@maleevaclub.com, www. maleevaclub.com. Sofia In Your Pocket Business direCtory Accountants & Consultants AFA B-5, ul. Oborishte 38, tel. 943 37 00, fax 943 37 07, office@afa.bg, www.afa.bg. Andi Maks Ltd. B-2, ul. Denkoglu 12-14, tel. 980 24 91, fax 986 29 62, office@andi-maks.com, www. andi-maks.com. Deloitte B-1, bul. Aleksandar Stamboliiski 103, tel. 802 33 00, fax 802 33 50, www.deloitte.com. Ernst & Young H-8, Business Park Sofia, Building 10, tel. 817 71 00, fax 817 71 11, www.ey.com. Eurobalance Ltd. G-8, ul. Hemus 33, tel. 872 98 57, eurobalance@abv.bg, www.eurobalance.net. Four Consult G-7, ul. Racho Dimchev 8, tel. 981 30 82/0897 886 925, daniela@fourconsult.com, www. fourconsult.com. Grant Thornton C-3, ul.Uliam Gladston 54, tel. 980 55 00, fax 980 48 24, office@gtbulgaria.com, www. gtbulgaria.com. KPMG D-3, ul. Frityof Nansen 37, tel. 969 73 00, fax 980 53 40, office@kpmg.bg, www.kpmg.bg. Price Waterhouse Coopers B-3, bul. Maria Luiza 9-11, tel. 935 52 00, fax 935 52 66, www.pwc.com. 67 Advertising agencies 95/971 71 96, fax 971 71 78, info@hutsjwt.com, www. hutsjwt.com. Leo Burnett G-8, ul. Maragidik 6, tel. 943 44 51, fax 943 41 65, office@leoburnett.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. McCann Erickson G-8, bul. Shipchenski prohod 63, tel. 971 96 41, fax 971 95 04, office@mccann.bg. Ogilvy & Mather C-1, ul. Dospat 60-62, tel. 952 34 00, fax 953 34 19, info@ogilvy.bg, www.ogilvy.bg. Huts JWT G-8, ul. Charlz Darvin 14B, tel. 971 71 SG Expressbank B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 73, tel. 937 04 76, fax 981 79 17, www.sgexpressbank.bg. Bulgarian officials Council of Ministers B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 1, tel. 940 27 70, fax 980 20 56, gis@government.bg, www. government.bg. Ministry of Foreign Affairs G-8, ul. Aleksandar Zhendov 2, tel. 948 29 99, fax 870 30 41, iprd@mfa. government.bg, www.mfa.government.bg. National Assembly B-4, pl. Narodno Sabranie 2, tel. 939 39, fax 981 31 31, infocenter@parliament.bg, www. parliament.bg. Presidency B-3, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 2, tel. 923 93 33, press@president.bg, www.president.bg.. Banks BNP Paribas Bulgaria B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 2, tel. 921 86 40, fax 921 86 95, bulgaria_bnpparibas@ bnpparibas.com, www.bulgaria.bnpparibas.com. Bulbank - Uni Credit Group B-3, pl. Sveta Nedelya 7, tel. 923 21 11, fax 988 46 36, www.bulbank.bg. Corporate commercial bank B-3, ul. Graf Ignatiev 10, tel. 980 93 62, fax 980 89 48, corpbank@corpbank.bg, www.corpbank.bg. First Investment Bank ul. Stefan Karadzha 10, tel. 91 001, fax 980 50 33, fib@fibank.bg, www.fibank.bg. HVB Bank Biochim B-4, ul. Ivan Vazov 1, tel. 926 92 10, fax 926 94 40, bulbank.bg. ING Bank D-1, ul. Emil Bersinski 12, tel. 917 64 00, fax 917 65 78, ing.infobg@ingbank.com, www. ing.bg. OBB (United Bulgarian Bank) B-2, ul. Sveta Sofia 5, tel. 811 28 00, fax 988 08 22, info@ubb.bg, www. ubb.bg. Poshtenska banka (Bulgarian Post Bank) B-4, bul. Tsar Osvoboditel 14, tel. 816 60 00, fax 988 81 10, contact@postbank.bg, www.postbank.bg. Pro Credit Bank A-2, bul. Hristo Botev 131, tel. 921 71 00, fax 921 71 10, contact@procreditbank.bg, www. procreditbank.bg. Raiffeisen Bank C-5, ul. Nikolay Gogol 18-20, tel. 919 85 101, fax 943 45 28, www.raiffeisen.bg. Business connections American Chamber of Commerce H-8, Business Atlantic Club of Bulgaria C-4, ul. Slavyanska 29, Park Sofia, Building 2, tel. 974 27 43, fax 974 27 41, amcham@amcham.bg, www.amcham.bg. tel. 981 06 99, fax 981 57 82, natoinfo@natoinfo.bg, www.natoinfo.bg. British Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce G-8, ul. Darvin 3, tel./fax 971 47 56, info@bbcc.bg, www. bbcc.bg. Bulgaria Economic Forum C-2, bul. Vitosha 86, tel. 951 52 59, fax 953 29 24, info@biforum.org, www. biforum.org. Bulgarian Business Leaders Forum C-4, ul. Slavyanska 42, tel. 986 52 02, fax 986 56 25, office@bblf.bg, www.bblf.bg. Bulgarian Dutch Business Club B-2, ul. Sofroniy Vrachanski 1, tel. 987 99 11, chairman@bg-nl.com, www.bg-nl.com. October - December 2008 68 Business direCtory A-5, ul. Iskar 9, tel. 987 26 31, fax 987 32 09, bcci@ bcci.bg, www.bcci.bg. Bulgarian Industrial Assosiation B-2, ul. Alabin 1620, tel. 932 09 11, fax 987 26 04, office@bia-bg.com, www.bia-bg.com. Bulgarian International Business Association B-1, bul. Aleksandur Stamboliiski 55, tel. 981 95 64, fax 981 91 69, office@biba.bg, www.biba.bg. Bulgarian Stock Exchange B-2, ul. Tri ushi 10, tel. 937 09 34, fax 937 09 46, bse@bse-sofia.bg, www. bse-sofia.bg. European Commission Representation B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 933 52 52, fax 933 52 33, delegationbulgaria@ec.europa.eu, www.evropa.bg. G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25A, tel. 816 30 10, fax 816 30 19, ahk-office@ahk-bg.org, www.ahk-bg.org. Institute for Market Economics B-5, bul. Patriarh Evtimii 61, tel. 952 62 66, mail@ime.bg, www.ime. bg. Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce and Industry United Nations in Bulgaria C-3, ul. Han Krum 25, tel. 969 61 00, fax 981 31 84, info@undp.bg, www. un-bg.bg. World Bank G-8, Interpred, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel. 969 72 29, fax 971 20 45, itaushanova@worldbank.bg, www.worldbank.bg. Business facilities Business Park Sofia H-8, Mladost 4, tel. 489 90 81, fax 489 90 80, office@businesspark-sofia.com, www. businesspark-sofia.com. Office space accommodating over 200 companies, restaurants, cafes, shops, banks. Inter Expo Center G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 147, tel. 965 52 20, fax 965 52 30, bul-reklama@bulgarreklama.com, www. bulgarreklama.com. Exhibition and congress complex with 8 separate halls, restaurants and cafes. Interpred World Trade Centre G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, tel. 969 50 52, fax 971 20 06, bsc@ wtcsofia.bg, www.wtcsofia.bg. Rentable office space, conference facilities. Sterling Serviced Office Group B-3, ul. Suborna 2A, tel. 926 41 11, fax 926 41 00, sofia@sterlingoffice. com, www.sterlingoffice.com. The only serviced office centre in Sofia. German-Bulgarian Trade and Industrial Chamber International Monetary Fund Representative Office B-3, BNB, pl. Aleksandar Batenberg 1, tel. 981 45 Invest Bulgaria Agency B-4, ul. Aksakov 31, tel. 985 06, fax 981 25 24, jroaf@imf.org. 55 00, fax 980 13 20, iba@investbg.government.bg, www.investbg.government.bg. Italian Chamber of Commerce B-5, ul. Oborishte 1B, tel. 846 32 80, fax 846 32 81, info@camcomit.bg, www.camcomit.bg. Event organisers Company for International Meetings Ltd. B-3, ul. Hristo Belchev 18, tel. 986 08 48, fax 980 60 74, cim@cim-pco.org, www.cim-pco.org. Leading congress organizer. Event House G-7, ul. Topli Dol 2A, tel. 958 99 99, fax 958 99 70, office@eventhouse.bg, www.eventhouse. bg. Conference halls, interpreters, catering. C-1, ul. Petko Karavelov 1A, tel. 951 53 87, fax 951 69 84, bulgaria@nabcc.org, www.nabcc.org. Privatisation Agency C-4, ul. Aksakov 29, tel./fax 980 98 27, press@priv.government.bg., www.priv. government.bg. North American Bulgarian Chamber of Commerce www.inyourpocket.com Sofia In Your Pocket Business direCtory Sterling Serviced Office Group Prime Locations. First-Class Environments. Exceptional Services Instant, Flexible, Affordable 2a Saborna Street, 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria Tel: +359 (0) 2 926 4111 sofia@sterlingoffice.com www.sterlingoffice.com 69 Norway B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54B, tel. 981 11 06, Poland C-3, ul. Han Krum 46, tel. 987 26 10, fax 987 Portugal B-1, ul. Pozitano 7, tel. 921 68 68, fax 921 68 Romania G-8, bul. Sitnyakovo 4, tel. 973 30 81, fax 973 963 41 03, info@rusembul.org. Serbia G-8, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 3, tel. 946 16 33, fax 946 10 59, sofia@emb-serbia.com. Slovak Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 942 92 10, fax 942 92 35, embassy@sofia.mfa.sk. South Africa A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26, tel. 981 66 82, fax 981 57 76, saembsof@techno-link.com. Spain C-5, ul. Sheynovo 27, tel. 946 12 09, fax 946 12 01, embespbg@mail.mae.es, www.embespbg.com. Sweden G-8, ul. Alfred Nobel 4, tel. 930 19 60, fax 973 37 95, ambassaden.sofia@foreign.ministry.se, www. swedenabroad.com/sofia. Switzerland G-8, ul. Shipka 33, tel. 942 01 00, fax 946 16 22, vertretung@sof.rep.admin.ch. Turkey C-4, bul. Vasil Levski 80, tel. 935 55 00, fax 981 93 58, turksofya@spnet.net. Ukraine G-6, ul. Boryana 29, tel. 955 94 78, fax 955 52 47, puvrb@mbox.contact.bg, www.ukrembassy.com. United Kingdom B-3, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 933 92 22, fax 933 92 19, britembinf@mail.orbitel.bg, www. british-embassy.bg. USA G-7, ul. Kozyak 16, tel. 937 51 00, fax 937 53 20, irc@usembassy.bg, www.usembassy.bg. 21, embpor@sofia.dgaccp.pt. 34 12, ambsofro@vip.bg. 29 39, polamba@internet-bg.net. fax 981 90 10, emb.sofia@mfa.no. Russia G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 28, tel. 963 09 14, fax Kongresstechnik Bulgaria Ltd. E-1, bul. Arsenalski 115, tel. 866 94 40, fax 866 94 57, office@ktbg.bg, www.ktbg.bg. Full range of conference equipment and services. Foreign representations Albania B-5, ul. Krakra 10, tel. 943 38 57, fax 943 30 04, austcon@mail.orbitel.bg. Austria B-4, ul. Shipka 4, tel. 932 90 32, fax 981 05 67, sofia-ob@bmaa.gv.at. Belgium E-4, pl. Velchova zavera 1, tel. 988 72 90, fax 963 36 38, sofia@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie. be/sofia. Canada B-4, ul. Moskovska 9, tel. 969 97 10, fax 981 60 81, consular@canada-bg.org. Croatia B-5, ul. Veliko Tarnovo 32, tel. 943 32 25, fax 946 13 55, croemb.sofia@mvp.hr, www.infotel.bg/ croembassy. Cyprus E-3, ul. Plachkovitsa 1A, tel. 961 77 31, fax 862 94 70, cyprus@mbox.contact.bg. Czech Republic B-5, bul. Yanko Sakazov 9, tel. 946 11 11, fax 946 18 00, sofia@embassy.mzv.cz. Denmark B-4, bul. Knyaz Dondukov 54, tel. 917 01 00, fax 980 99 01, sofamb@um.dk, www.ambsofia.um.dk. Estonia B-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-30, tel. 937 99 00, fax 937 99 09, embassy.sofia@mfa.ee. Finland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. 810 21 10, fax 810 21 20, sanomat.sof@formin.fi. France B-5, ul. Oborishte 29, tel. 965 11 00, fax 965 11 20, presse@ambafrance-bg.org, www.ambafrance-bg.org. Germany G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 25, tel. 918 380, fax 963 16 58, reg1@sofia.diplo.de, www.sofia.diplo.de. Greece C-5, ul. San Stefano 33, tel. 843 30 85, fax 946 12 49, info@greekembassy-sofia.org, info. greekembassy-sofia.org. Hungary D-3, ul. 6-i septemvri 57, tel. 963 11 35, fax 963 21 10, huemszof@netbg.com. China H-8, ul. Aleksandar von Humbolt 7, tel. 973 38 73, fax 971 10 81, www.chinaembassy.bg. Ireland A-3, ul. Bacho Kiro 26-28, tel. 985 34 25, fax 983 33 02, info@embassyofireland.bg. Israel D-2, pl. Bulgaria 1, tel. 951 50 44, fax 952 11 01, info@sofia.mfa.gov.il. Italy B-4, ul. Shipka 2, tel. 921 73 00, fax 980 37 17, ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it, www.ambsofia.esteri.it. Japan G-8, Lyulyakova gradina 14, tel. 971 27 08, fax 971 10 95, www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp. Korea G-8, bul. Dragan Tsankov 36, Interpred WTC, Block A, Fl.7, tel. 971 21 81/971 25 36, fax 971 33 88, koreanembassy@safemessaging.biz. Macedonia G-8, ul. Fr. J.-Curie 17, tel. 870 50 98, fax 971 28 32, todmak@bgnet.bg. Netherlands G-8, ul. Oborishte 15, tel. 816 03 00, fax 816 03 01, sof@minbuza.nl, www.netherlandsembassy.bg. Australia G-8, ul. Trakia 37, tel. 946 13 34, fax 946 17 69, albanian@centrum-grup.com. Lawyers Arsov Natchev Ganeva B-5, ul. Shipka 36, tel. 943 40 66, fax 946 33 48, info@anglaw.com, www.anglaw. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dia Consult C-2, ul. Uzundzhovska 16, tel. 981 91 78, fax 980 20 26, diacon@mail.techno-link.com, www.diaconsult.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dimitrov, Petrov & Co. C-3, bul. Patriarh Evtimii 36, tel. 987 70 96, fax 988 73 60, info@dpc.bg, www.dpc. bg. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Kambourov & Partners C-3, ul. Neofit Rilski 55, tel. 986 99 99, fax 986 99 95, office@kambourov.biz, www. kambourov.biz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Stoichev, Valkov & Co. Law firm ul. Damian Gruev 20, fl.4, apt.9, tel. 852 69 99/852 49 99. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Office supplies Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Office 1 Superstore G-8, bul. Tsarigradsko shose 139, tel. 070 010 700, fax 070 010 701, tm@hq.office1, www.office1.bg. Q A Office Express H-9, bul. Tsarigratsko shose 135, tel. 0800 1 80 80, offex@offex.bg, www.offex.bg. Office delivery service. QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Multirama C-3, ul. Solunska 2, tel. 400 66 20, office@ multirama.bg, www.multirama.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Real estate Discover Bulgaria Properties H-8, Mladost-4, bl. 473B, tel. 881 57 14, fax 881 53 32, info@discover-bulgaria. com, www.discover-bulgaria.com. October - December 2008 70 index Street Index 11-ti avgust A/B-4 13-ti mart D-3 20-ti april B/C-1, C-2 6-ti septemvri B-4, C-3/4, D-3 Aksakov B/C- 3, C-4 Alabin B-2/3 Aleksandar Batenberg pl. B-3 Aleksandar Nevski pl. B-4 Aleksandar Stamboliyski bul. B-1/2 Angel Kanchev B/C-3 Antim I A-2, B-1/2 Arsenalski bul. E-2 Atanas Dalchev G-8 Baba Nedelya pl. D-2 Bacho Kiro A/B-3 Budapeshta A-3/4, B-4 Bulgaria bul. D-1/2 Bulgaria pl. C-2 Cherkovna Cherni vrah bul. G-8 D-2/3, E-3 Denkoglu B-2/3 Dragan Tsankov bul. C/D-4, D-5 Dunav A/B-4 Dyakon Ignatiy B-3 Dzheims Baucher E-3/4 Ekzarh Yosif Elin Pelin Evlogi Georgiev F Z. Kyuri . Frityof Nansen A-2/3/4/5 D-4/5 C-4/5, D-3 G-8 C-3, D-2 Ivan Shishman Ivan Vazov B/C-4, C-3 B-3/4, C-4 Oborishte Orlov most B-5 C-5 Kaloyan B-3 Knyaz Boris C-1/2 Knyaz Dondukov bul. B-3/4/5 Kozloduy F-7 Kozyak G-7 Krakra B/C-5 Krum Popov D-3/4 Krastyo Sarafov D-3/4 Karnigradska B-2 Lavele B-2 Lege B-3 Lyuben Karavelov C-3/4, D-3 Madrid bul. Makedonia pl. Maria Luiza bul. Moskovska Naicho Tsanov bul. Narodno sabranie pl. Neofit Rilski Nezavisimost pl. Nikola Vaptsarov bul. G-8 B-2 A-3, B-3 B-4 F-7 B-4 C-2/3 B-3 G-7/8 Panayot Volov A-5, B-5 Parchevich C-2/3 Patriarh Evtimiy bul. C-2/3 Pencho Slaveykov bul. C-1, D-1/2 Pirotska A-1/2, B-3 Pop Bogomil A-3/4 Pozitano B-1/2/3 Praga bul. C-1 Rakovski A-4, B-4 Stefan Kardzha Saborna Sv. Naum bul. Sveta Nedelya pl. B-3/4 B-3 E-3/4 B-3 Garibaldi pl. B-3 Georgi Benkovski A/B-4 Gladston C-2/3 Graf Ignatiev B-3, C-3/4 Gurko B/C-3, C-4 C-2/3 Han Asparuh Han Krum C-3 Hristo Belchev B-3, C-2/3 Hristo Botev bul. A-2, B-2, C-2 Hristo Smirnenski D-4, E-4 Iskar Ivailo A/B-4, B-3 B-2 San Stefano C-5 Serdika A-3, B-3 Sheinovo C-5 Shipka B-5 Simeonovsko shose G-8, H-8 Sitnyakovo bul. G-8 Slaveykov pl. C-3 Slavyanska B-3/4, C-4 Sofiiski geroi G-7 Sofroniy Vrachanski A-2, B-2 Solunska B-2, C-3 Stara planina B-4, A-5 Todor Aleksandrov bul. A-1, B-1/2 Totleben bul. C-1 Tri ushi B-2 Triaditsa B-3 Tsar Asen B-2, C-2 Tsar Osvoboditel bul. B-4, C-5 Tsar Samuil B-2, C-2 Tsar Simeon A-1/2/3/4 Tsarigradsko shose G-8, H-9 Tulovo C-5 Tundzha C-1, D-2 Vasil Levski bul. A-4, B-5, C-3/4 Veliko Tarnovo G-8 Veslets A/B-3 Vitosha bul. B/C/D-2, D/E-1 Vladayska B1 Vladimir Vazov bul. G-8 Vazrazhdane pl. B-1/2 Yanko Sakazov bul. Yuri Venelin B-5 C-4 Index 4km Party Centre 39 8th Ball 42 Adams Bar 36 Adonis 42 Alcohol 39 Alexander Palace 20 Alga 30 Amsterdam 38 Anel 17 Apartament 52 36 Apartment 36 Apartment House Dunav 23 Apartment House Iztok 23 Apartment House Sofia 23 Art Club Museum 34 Arte 20 Art-Hostel 23 Art 'Otel 17 Atlantic 21 B29 Piano Bar 42 Babbles 39 Bacardi Box 46 Backstage Karaoke Bar 42 Bakehouse 28 Bar na kraya na vselenata 46 Basic 36 Baskerville 36 Before & After 34 Be My Guest 23 Best Western Hotel City 18 Best Western Hotel Europe 18 Best Western Hotel Expo 18 Biblioteka Cool House Piano Bar 42 Bilkovata 36 Bistro Zita 27 Bitburger 38 Black Box 39 Blaze 36 Boyansko hanche 29 Brilyantin 39 Buddha Bar 39 Bulgari 21, 24 Bulgaria 34 Butchers 28 By The Way 36 Cabaret 40 Cactus 28 Café del Mar 34 Cappuccino bar & dinner 36 Captain Cook 33 Cargo 36 Casa Boyana 18 Casa de Cuba 36 Casa Ferrari Bed and Breakfast 21 Central 18 Central Forum 18 Central Park Hotel 18 Checkpoint Charly 28 Chepishev 29 Chervilo 40 Chillout Bar & Diner 37 Chillout Bar & Dinner 42 Chillout Lounge 37 Chocolate 37 Classic 31 Club 703 37 Club Liqueur 40 Club Sugar 40 Coffee House 34 Comercial 28 Crystal Palace Boutique Hotel 18 Dani's 34 Da Vidi 28 Devette drakona 26 Diter 21 Dolls 44 Egur, Egur 24 Elate Plaza 19, 28 Escape 40 Etno 24 Exit Club 42 Fans 42 Fix Mix 34 Flannagans 38 Gioia 30 Grand Hotel Sofia 17 Greenville Hotel & Apartment Houses 19 Hadzhidraganovite kashti 24 Halbite 24 Happy Bar & Grill 25 Help 42 Hilton 17 Holiday Inn Sofia 17 Hostel Mostel 23 Hostel Sofia 23 Internet Hostel 23 Irish Harp 38 Jim Beam Club 46 J. J. Murphy's 38 Kapri Kempinski Hotel Zografski Kibea Kitayski Drakon (Chinese Dragon) Kohinoor Kolikovski Hotel Krivoto Kumbare Kushtata s chasovnika Laguna Latinka Lavazza Club Lebed Legends Les Fleurs Boutique Hotel L'Etranger Life House Light Lion London Minute Lozenetz Madrid Magdanoz (Parsley) Mahaloto Manastirska magernitsa Marseille Maxi Park Hotel & Spa Mediterraneo Mediterrani Meg Lozenetz Memories Moderato Moskva Motto NAI-klub Nero Niky Onda Opera Orient 33 Orisha bar & dinner O! Shipka Otvud aleyata zad shkafa Park Hotel Vitosha Pastarito Pastorant Perfekt Pizza Hut Planeta Pod lipite Pop Bogomil 21 17 33 26 27 19 31 26 28 34 21 34 29 21 19 25 40 19 21 34 21 22 25 29 25 46 19 29 37 21 37 29 32 37 42 37 22 34 37 46 38 32 29 19 30 30 25 32 42 25 22 PR Pri Miro Pri Yafata Pulse Club Radisson SAS Grand Hotel Red Bed and Breakfast Renaissance Residence Oborishte Rimini RotasaR Ruski klub Sakura Salsa plus Scotty's Boutique Hotel Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan Shipka SkyWay Hotel Social Jazz Club Sofia Garden Bed and Breakfast Sofia Plaza Sofia Princess Hotel SPA Hotel Bankya Palace Stroezha Sushi Bar Sveta Sofia Swingin' Hall Taboo Club Taj Mahal Tambuktu Tazka Tea House The Bookies The Club The Rooms Toba&Co Toucan Bluzz & Rock Triada Tsarsko Selo Tunka Chervena Linya (Thin Red Line) Ugo Uno Enoteca Vagabond Vega Sofia Hotel Victoria Vishnite Vodenitzata Why Not Yalta Yesterday Karaoke Bar Zhadnata lamya 40 33 25 40 17 22 21 19 28 22 32 30 40 22 17 22 19 44 22 20 20 22 46 31 20 44 44 27 33 31 38 34 44 23 38 46 20 20 38 32 30 32 20 32 30 29 42 40 42 30 Sofia In Your Pocket streets & Maps 71 October - December 2008 72 streets & Maps Sofia In Your Pocket streets & Maps 73 October - December 2008 74 streets & Maps Sofia In Your Pocket Search in our database: Land parcels Apartments Houses and villas Hotels Commercial buildings Property investment Legal advice Finance consultancy Property management Property development http://properties.discover-bulgaria.com Easier than ever with Discover-Bulgaria Properties Tel./Fax: +359 2 881 01 02 properties@discover-bulgaria.com In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 46 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S