The Commonwealth Military Cemetery in the park is marked by a large block of polished red granite. Look closely and you can just see three small holes above the second plaque. Once upon a time this headstone lay on top of Comrade Enver Hoxha – the holes are where his name was attached in golden letters. Now the former dictator lies in a quite graveyard on the edge of the city and his tombstone has been recycled to provide a memorial for British and Commonwealth military personnel who died in Albania during the war.


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