Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps  LVIV July - September 2009  City of lions  A Ukrainian city with a European soul  Ukrainian Coffee Capital  Exploring Lviv’s café scene  “In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times №1 www.inyourpocket.com  CoNteNts  3  E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S  Contents The Basics Arriving, Money and more 5 8 9 Lviv Opera Theatre  Culture & Events Galleries, cinemas, culture centres  Where to stay A fine selection of places to spent the night  Dining & Nightlife Nightlife Bars, pubs and clubs  12 19  Trust In Your Pocket Some have called it the scandal that rocked an industry, others have merely said that it was only a matter of time. Whatever it was labelled the revelations of a Lonely Planet author in April that he had never visited Columbia, - despite writing Lonely Planet’s guide to the country sent shockwaves through the travel publishing industry, exposing an underbelly of cheating, plagiarism, poor rates of pay and outrageously bad management. We at In Your Pocket remained smug throughout. As we employ only locally based authors who are aware of our starvation-inducing salaries from the word go, we do not have to worry about authors not going to the places they write about. What’s more, they are backed up by a local team of researchers who check and double check every detail in every guide every issue. So the information you get from us is first hand and independently verified. That’s why The Times named In Your Pocket as one of ten guide book publishers you really can trust and rely on.  What to see  Essential Lviv Churches & Cathedrals Museums  20 21 23 25 26 28 29  Getting around Mail & Phones Planes, trains & car rental  Shopping Where to go shopping in Lviv  Directory Lifestyle, Health & Sports and Business  Maps & Index Old town map City map Country map Street register 31 32 34 35  Lviv from the Vysokyi Zamok Hill  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  4  foreWorD Welcome to a city of unique old-world charm; the scene of an accident where East broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a European soul. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Ukraine’s Mecca - there are magnificent and inspiring churches and cathedrals on just about every corner. Although Lvivians have the reputation as churchgoers, they haven’t forgotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking the celebration into the early morning hours. Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler–Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred numerous resistance movements in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. Lviv continues to be a shining example of independence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary identity to the stream of patriotism which emanates from this radical western gem. On April 17, 2007, Ukraine and Poland were chosen to co-host the Euro 2012 football competition. As one of Ukraine’s host cities, Lviv anxiously awaits the fanatical joyous surge expected to fill the city. However, due to bureaucratic hurdles planners have made only trivial progress on the necessary new stadium, road reconstruction and airport expansion. It may take a miracle to save the city’s chances to host. In Your Pocket will continue to monitor the situation. We are proud to offer this mini-guide designed to highlight the very best Lviv has to offer.  ArriViNg Europe In Your Pocket By bus All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; however, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket offices and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs you’ll find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find the left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall. Getting to town Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on your haggling skills, fares are available for as little as 40Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1Hr. Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 7, 37, 57 and 71 shuttle passengers to centre for 1.50Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station.  5  By car When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your driver’s license and your car’s registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.  Arriving to Lviv by train is unforgettable experience The 70 Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1 Hr) or marshrutka 95 (1.5 Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 by trolleybus/ marshrutka on one of Ukraine’s bumpiest roads.  By train With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central rail station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. Once the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms by proceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the station’s halls. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths (каса) and schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a floor plan displayed of available services if you happen to get disoriented. Purchase international tickets from booth No. 2. (Quiet please, the street dogs huddled in the corner are trying to sleep.) A restaurant (open 11:00-23:00), Express Bank with Western Union, telephones and resting hall (зал) No. 1 are located in the left wing. Admission to hall No. 1 is 3Hr per hour and the Internet can be accessed for 6Hr. A café and ATM are also on site. Additional ATMs, a kiosk selling snacks and beverages and a bar are located in the corridor connecting the left wing to the main hall. The bulk of station’s services are located in the right wing. Entering from the main hall you’ll find a barber shop, an agency offering excursion services and resting hall No. 2. This hall has two cafés, newspaper stands and a pharmacy. Entrance is free of charge. Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A trip to centre should cost around 30Hr and Lviv’s cabbies are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is bustling with busses and mini-busses, most of which connect to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to centre. The same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the train station.  In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced travel guides, producing almost four million guides per year. With print guides to more than 50 cities across the continent, travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name: they trust our content and our flawless levels of accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to its founding aim of covering the world with well researched and well written city guides. This year we have already launched a new guide to Odesa, and will be launching new guides in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think that you can contribute, and think you have what it takes to publish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2008. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.  By plane When travellers refer to the Lviv International Airport it’s usually in the context of either a twisted joke or terrifying tale. We found a sleepy port lacking in up-to-snuff conveniences, but staffed by friendly Lvivians. The signature massive potholes that once dotted the runway have been repaired, and as the city gears up to host Euro 2012 the airport will surely transform into something more familiar and welcoming. Laid out in sectors 1-4, getting around the airport is quite easy. Sectors 1 and 2 are located in the main terminal and handle international arrivals and departures. You’ll also find the main tourist information booth, an information desk, customs, a VIP hall, telephones, lost and found, car rental booths, first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms, news stands and a bank. The information booth was closed on our visit, but the information desk located through the door beneath the flight departure schedule was open and staffed by a knowledgeable and friendly English speaking local. Most domestic flights arrive at sectors 3 and 4 located in the smaller terminal. As you exit the bus and enter the terminal, wait for the luggage cart to pull up alongside and retrieve your bags. If you happen to miss out on the cart, proceed to the baggage room inside located adjacent the Sixt car rental. A café and airline ticketing and information booths can also be found in this terminal. The toilet is definitely the airport’s most elusive feature (if we had room in this guide we’d draw you a map). It’s actually located across the parking lot from the main terminal. Look for the little white brick building with a red roof next to the Satellite Café. The attendant will ask if you need paper, just nod your head yes and save it for later if you don’t need it right away. Getting to town Follow the heard of fellow travellers through the terminal corridors to the waiting gauntlet of cabbies.  E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S  Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25 Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. +380 44 467 78 20 fax +380 44 467 78 30 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14928-3900P © Neolitas-KIS  Editorial Editor Brigham Marriott Researcher Natasha Martisova Layout & Design KIS Ltd. Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo: www.io.ua  Maps © DNVP Kartographia, 2009 © Neolitas-KIS, 2009  Sales & Circulation General Manager Alla Zhylina, alla@kis.kiev.ua Kyiv Managers Ludmila Mednikova, mila@kis.kiev.ua; Yuriy Ivaschenko, ra@kis.kiev.ua Lviv Representative Yuriy Sokyrka, lviv@inyourpocket.com Odesa Representative Zoya Kazanzhy, odesa@inyourpocket.com  Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  6  BAsiCs Basic data Lviv Population: 725 200 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 88.1%, Russian 8.9%, Polish 0.9%, Belarusian 0.4%, Jewish 0.3%, Armenian 0.1%, other 1.3%.  BAsiCs Language The country’s official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant. Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian  7  Street smarts Street Square Avenue Boulevard Bridge Embankment Highway Lane Descent вулиця (вул.) площа (пл.) проспект (просп.) бульвар (бульв.) міст набережна (наб.) шосе провулок (пров.) узвіз (VU-lytsia) (PLO-scha) (pro-SPEKT) (bul’-VAR) (mist) (NA-berezhna) (sho-SE) (pro-VU-lok) (uz-VIZ)  Floors Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one.  Ukraine Population: 46 221 981 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube. Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Lviv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.  Money The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.  Toilets Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Lviv. Make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each café/restaurant you visit and you should be fine; pay toilets are in short supply in centre. If you think you can just pop in to McDonalds and take care of business, think again. You must first place an order then open the bathroom door by punching in the code located on the receipt. Good luck.  Ploscha Rynok  Lviv, Lvov, Lwów Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. The city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the AustroHungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many languages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian). As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrainian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely result in more hits.  or Ж = ladies  or М or Ч = gentlemen  Alcohol Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner.  Tipping Lviv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.  Roads Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.  Disabled travellers Lviv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule and public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.  Visas You can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay 90 days if you’re a citizen of any EU country, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Canada, USA and Japan. Everyone else still needs a visa from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas at foreign embassies can usually be processed in one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Note that many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Most foreigners don’t bother with getting work permits, however such negligence can bring about fines. To avoid such entanglements contact Lviv Employment Centre (Kniahyni Olhy 122, tel. 244 59 77) and get all the proper documents signed.  Safety They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.  Borders Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).  Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Lviv, so bring your own.  Market values How do costs compare to back home? list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 15.00Hr Loaf of white bread 2.80Hr Snickers bar 4.00Hr Litre of vodka 25.00Hr Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 4.00Hr 20 Marlboros 8.00Hr Public transport ticket 1.50Hr Dry-cleaning and 25.00Hr pressing one men’s shirt 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 6.40Hr Here’s a handy €1.42 €0.26 €0.38 €2.36 €0.38 €0.76 €0.14 €2.36 $1.97 $0.37 $0.52 $3.28 $0.52 $1.05 $0.20 $3.28  Climate 30 100  National holidays 2009 75  Smoking You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.  20 10 0  50 25 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 0  -10 -20  January 1 January 7 March 8 April 19 April 20 May 1-2 May 9 June 15 June 28 August 24  New Year Orthodox Christmas Women’s Day Easter Sunday Easter Monday A day off for the workers Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day  Temperature, °C  Rainfall, mm  €0.60 $0.84  Official exchange rates (as of June 22): €1 – 10.61Hr US$1 – 7.62Hr  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  8  CUltUre Art galleries Art-11 C-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. 274 03 67. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. - 22:00. Admission is free.  Where to stAY Opera & Ballet Svobody prosp. 28, tel. 242 17 90/242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua. Many European theatres can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lviv‘s opera house is unique in that it is built on top of a river. The Poltva River flows beneath the stage and continues through centre deep beneath the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many sinkholes that tend to startle foreign visitors). By the end of the 19th Century Lviv was a bourgeoning city eager for a European-class theatre. The project was put up for tender and many top European architects tossed in their bids. It was Polish architect Zygmunt Gorgolewski - designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State Opera - who proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying the small river beneath the opera. His plans also included the use of a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With optimistic trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House was completed in 1900. The building began to sink right away, but settled in the decades that followed. It is believed that knowledge of this flaw led to Gorgolewski‘s depression, legendary suicide attempt and eventual death of heart disease. The official opening performances included a ballet, opera-drama and a comedy. The most fitting of the three was the opera entitled “Janek”. Written by Władysław Żeleński, it detailed the lives of Carpathian mountain-dwellers. The contemporary professionals that call the Opera House home include a 90-piece symphonic orchestra, more than 40 world-class opera soloists, a choir and a ballet troupe. The structure‘s stunning main façade is widely recognized and appears on the city‘s emblem and is also displayed on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and eveing performances at 18:00. QClosed Mon, Tue. Tickets 25-125Hr.  9  Dzyga C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. 297 56 12. QOpen 10:00 Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform C-3, pl. Rynok 40, tel. 297 51 93. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission is free.  Solomea Kruszelnicka Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3,  Gerdan C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. 235 70 46. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free.  The boom is on for Lviv‘s hotel industry! Throughout its history, the city‘s stunning architecture, rich history and exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn travellers in hordes. However, there will soon be a new reason to visit. In 2007, Lviv was chosen as a venue for the Euro 2012 football competition, and the city must gear-up quickly if it hopes to meet demand. New establishments will serve to compliment existing hotels and hostels, which offer a full range of comfort, style and service. Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer renovated flats that can be rented on a nightly basis, and are considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite pluses.  Chaos C-4, Rus’ka 12, tel. 8 067 670 03 87. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission is free.  Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. 272 39 48/261 41 60. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is free for students.  Cream of the crop Citadel Inn H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. 295 77 77, fax 295 90 00, reservation@citadel-inn.com.ua, www.citadel-inn. com.ua. Located near centre, Citadel is actually a 19th Century fortress. Encased in such a unique old-world atmosphere, it‘s easy to shrug off contemporary problems and just relax. Staff is very courteous and adept at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant, ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard with air conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers, hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The romantic Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the casino, sauna, gym and conference and banquet rooms. Q26 rooms (24 standards 990 - 1200Hr, 2 suites 2500Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PRULKW hhhh  Lviv Palace of Arts A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. 272 89 33. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Pory roku C-3, Virmens’ka 23, tel. 235 44 65. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free.  Cinemas Kinopalace B-3, Teatral’na 22, tel. 297 50 50/297 50 05. Q Tickets 10-24Hr. Kinopalace Kopernyk B-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. 297 51 77. Q Tickets 10-24Hr. Kyiv C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 8, tel. 72 67 73. QTickets 10Hr. Lviv I-5, Samchuka 12, tel. 270 44 80. Q Tickets 12Hr.  Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 72 40 42, fax  Culture centres British Council H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National University, tel. 39 45 52. QOpen , Mon, Thu 14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. University, tel. 39 47 67.  Goethe-Institute H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National Lviv State Palace I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. 275 32 47. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00.  Summer’s biggest ethno fest Music and art enthusiasts from around the world will converge on the picturesque village of Svirzh for what is sure to be the summer’s most incredible event. The three day Svirzh World Music Festival is set on th e awe-inspiring grounds of a 15th Centur y park and church and will run from July 31 to August 2. Rock and folk music, dance, literature, handicrafts and dramatic art from every corner of the globe will be on display. Camping sites are available for those not wanting to miss any of the action. The earlier you buy tickets, the less you pay. Two types are available: FAN tickets go for $30-35 for all three days, VIP will set you back $110-135. One day FAN tickets can be purchased at the gate for $20. Camping costs $2 per night per person. Tickets can be purchased by sending the online application to svirzh@gmail.com.  76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup.com.ua, www.ghgroup. com.ua. Grand is extremely adept at meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lviv‘s main thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in the late 90‘s and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic interiors, modern amenities and views of either the quiet courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buffet served in Grand‘s renowned restaurant is included in the room charge, as is a membership to an upscale fitness centre that features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage service, solarium, aerobics hall and gym. Disco Bar Platinum and Grand Club Casino offer intriguing entertainment opportunities. The professional staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle experience. Q61 rooms (9 singles €85, 43 doubles €120, junior suites €135, 9 suites €160, apartment €250, extra bed €30). PHARFLGKDW hhhh  Opera A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 225 90 00, fax  Theatres First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 11, tel. 272 68 41/272 68 55. QOpen . Closed Sat. Tickets 3-8Hr.  Leopolis B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. 295 95 00, fax 295 95  Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre A-3, Lesia Kurbasa 3, tel. 272 49 14/272 48 24. Q Tickets 20-30Hr. Lviv Regional Doll Theatre C-2, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 1, tel. 235 58 32. Q Tickets 5Hr. Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre B-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. 272 05 83/272 07 51, www.zankovetska.com.ua. QOpen . Closed Mon. Ticket price starts at 7Hr.  Voskresinnya Theatre H-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl. 5, tel. 274 13 00. QOpen . Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. Tickets 10-30Hr.  99, reservations@leopolishotel.com, www.leopolishotel. com. Located in a newly renovated 18th Century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a nose ahead when it comes to class. The attention to detail here is impressive. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed and come with classy touches such as heated tile floors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave throughout the rooms (there are even speakers in the shower), high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof triple-pane windows, etc., etc. A complimentary buffet breakfast is served in one of the two elegant restaurants and the bar is a popular after work hang-out for business travellers. Hotel guests can enjoy the intimate expression of Leopolis charm in library lounge. The library offers 24-hour personalized butler service and can be reserved separately for private meetings and events. The hotel is currently expanding into the adjacent building. Scheduled for completion in 2010, this new wing will bring the room total to 90 and will include a spa centre and three conference rooms. Q43 rooms (20 superiors €170, 19 junior suites €190, 3 suites €340, 1 apartment €440, extra bed €30). PHR6ULGKW hhhhh  225 90 01, reception@hotel-opera.lviv.ua, www.hotelopera.lviv.ua. Opera is perfect for both business trips and romantic getaways. Located at the start of Svobody prosp., the 51 newly remodelled rooms come equipped with airconditioning, telephone, filtered tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and satellite TV. Many rooms have spectacular views of the Opera House and the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. The restaurant on the ground floor serves a complimentary breakfast, and for lunch and dinner head to the exclusive Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor. The exquisite menu and popular summer terrace make this one of the most intriguing and definitely the most romantic venues in the city. Excellent conference facilities are available. Q47 rooms (8 singles 700 - 800Hr, 29 doubles 950 1050Hr, 5 junior suites 1250Hr, 5 suites 1990Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHAR6ULKW hhhh  Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi internet access  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  10  Where to stAY Upmarket Dnister G-3, Mateika 6, tel. 297 43 17/297 43 05, fax 297 10 21, bron@dnister.lviv.ua, www.dnister.lviv. ua. Set half way up St. George hill overlooking picturesque Ivan Franko Park, Dnister offers the absolute best views of Lviv. With 150 rooms it is also one of the largest hotels in the city. Value for hryvnia doesn‘t actually kick in room-wise until superior and lux (definitely worth splurging for); standard rooms are reminiscent of what can be found in a stateside motel. Built in 1983, the hotel was completely remodelled in 1999 and has since garnered the reputation as one of Lviv‘s premier business and conference centres. Seven conference halls are available with the largest accommodating up to 200 participants. They also offer group discounts: the larger the group the bigger the discount. Staff is courteous, professional and English speaking. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. The restaurant is elegantly arranged and offers scrumptious European cuisine. The hotel‘s gem is the Panorama Bar located on the ninth floor. From the bars telescope it‘s possible to get a close up peep of Old Town or eaves drop on hikers mulling about Vysokyi Zamok Hill. Q118 rooms (15 economy 500Hr, 50 standards 600Hr, 20 superiors 850Hr, 26 businesses 950Hr, 7 suites 1500Hr). hhhh  Where to stAY Eney K-4, Shymzeriv 2, tel./fax 76 87 99, eney@mail. lviv.ua, www.eney.lviv.ua. This quaint hotel is located in a tranquil niche next to a botanical garden a short cab ride from centre. Rooms are decked with stylishly modern décor and come standard with air conditioning, satellite TV, Internet, bathrobe, toiletries, safe and mini-bar. Relaxation and entertainment options include a dry sauna, billiards and a small outdoor pool (open throughout the summer months). Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served at the hotel‘s restaurant, which features Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. Reception staff is extremely professional, courteous and multi-lingual. Q15 rooms (5 singles 580 - 780Hr, 5 doubles 780 - 980Hr, 2 triples 1180Hr, 2 suites 1280Hr, 1 apartment 1680Hr). PHARLGKXCW hhh ment and features reasonably priced Ukrainian and European cuisine. The salmon in a honey sauce is a local favourite. Q22 rooms (3 singles 360Hr, 15 doubles 520 - 570Hr, 4 suites 700 - 900Hr). POHARLGK i.e. the lift really takes your breath away. The deluxe and semi-deluxe rooms are spacious, have been remodelled to the local taste and come standard with telephone, cable TV, Internet access and a refrigerator. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody prosp. and Lviv‘s historic centre. Tourist class rooms come at a bargain rate, but you‘ll have to share a bathroom and shower. The service is up to standard and English is not a problem for most of the helpful staff. George‘s restaurant, bar and banquet room are located through the lobby. The Lviv chestnut beef and savoury pork highlight the restaurant‘s reasonably priced menu and the complimentary breakfast begins at 8:00. Q72 rooms ( economy rooms 190 - 220Hr, standards 370 - 400Hr, junior suites 510 - 540Hr, suites 580 - 610Hr). PHARKW hhh  11  Prestige F-2, Yaroslava Mudroho 33, tel. 244 41 78, fax  Swiss Hotel C-5, Kniazia Romana 20, tel./fax 240 37  Eurohotel J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, tel. 242 40 02, fax  275 72 24, info@eurohotel.lviv.ua, www.eurohotel.lviv. ua. Located a brisk 15 minute walk from centre, Eurohotel has an elegantly remodelled interior and rooms. A safe, mini bar, Internet access, satellite TV and air conditioning come standard in the rooms. The hotel also features a modern business centre, a conference hall that accommodates up to 50 and interpreting services. Various package deals are also available and come with extras such as guided city tours and airport transfer. Reception speaks fluent English and is adept at meeting the needs of foreign tourists. Located in the lobby, the restaurant is currently metamorphosing from a gaudy sushi joint to a more appropriate European restaurant. Q92 rooms (6 singles 400Hr, 30 standards 500Hr, 46 superiors 650Hr, 5 junior suites 850Hr, 4 suites 1250Hr, 2 apartments 1650Hr). POHARLGKW hhhh  77, info@swiss-hotel.lviv.ua, www.swiss-hotel.lviv.ua. Swiss offers 18 suites, each of which is uniquely decorated. All rooms come equipped with satellite TV, telephone, minibar, air-conditioning, safe, hair dryer and slippers. Breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant and is included in the price. Other services include room service, city tours in a variety of languages, a children‘s room (free for hotel guests), nanny services for small children and a conference hall with multimedia equipment. Q18 rooms (singles 500Hr, doubles 600Hr, junior suites 650 - 750Hr, suites 1250 - 1500Hr, apartment 2520Hr). PHARLGKDCW hhhh  244 41 79, www.pristige-hotel.lviv.ua/index_en.html. Don‘t let the name frighten your pocketbook, Prestige is actually good value for hryvnia. Located a short cab ride from centre, rooms were recently remodelled and are elegantly furnished. With only nine rooms and one apartment, this hotel is regularly booked; advanced reservation is the way to go. Breakfast is served in the café on the ground floor and starts at 65Hr. Amenities include satellite TV, air conditioning, safe, mini bar, laundry service, 24 hour room service and guarded parking. Q10 rooms ( standards 380Hr, junior suites 480Hr, suites 980Hr). PAR hhh 297 16 30, fax 255 09 95, staryikrakiv@ukrpost.ua, www.staryikrakiv.lviv.ua. Turning on to Shpytal‘na vul. is like stepping into the aftermath of a massive explosion. The street has been completely demolished. Unfortunately, the only access to this hotel is by foot. However, the reward for the twisted ankle and dust on your shoes is a clean, newly remodelled room at a great price. Staff is friendly and speaks some English. The complimentary breakfast is served in the cosy courtyard café. VAT not included. Q10 rooms (4 singles 330Hr, 4 doubles 380Hr, 2 triples 440Hr, 1 apartment 500Hr). RGKW hhh  Lviv A-2, Viacheslava Chernovola 7, tel. 242 32 70/272  Staryi Krakiv (Old Krakow) H-2, Shpytal’na 21, tel.  86 51, fax 272 86 51. With 368 rooms, this is one of Lviv‘s largest hotels. Centrally located, rooms on the upper floors facing V. Chernovola prosp. come with nice views of the historic centre. Not much has changed with the lobby, stairs and lift since Soviet days and room furnishings are a bit rough around the edges. Only about half of the rooms come with telephone and a TV; “superior” rooms have refrigerators. Ukrainian and European are on order in the restaurant and there‘s plenty of parking for those bold enough to drive on Ukraine‘s roads. Q economy rooms 90 - 160Hr, singles 150 - 220Hr, doubles 240 - 550Hr, junior suites 460 - 550Hr. LK  Vintage Boutique Hotel C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 27, tel.  274 69 34, fax 272 20 24, info@vintagehotel.com.ua, www.vintagehotel.com.ua. Vintage is located on one of old town‘s most alluring streets. The recently remodelled rooms are elegant and come standard with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, Wi-Fi and slippers. The lux room is stunning and the twins and doubles are comfortable; however, the singles tend to be a bit claustrophobic. Many rooms offer fascinating contrasting views of the surrounding ancient architecture. A small business centre is at your service, and the complimentary buffet breakfast is served in the café. Q12 rooms (3 singles 550Hr, 6 doubles 750Hr, 3 suites 1300Hr). PARLK  Hostels Central Square Hostel C-3, pl. Rynok 5. Central offers the unique experience of staying right on Rynok pl. (Market Square) Lviv‘s cobbled heart. With only 10 available beds, space is limited and staying here feels more like renting a bed in a private apartment rather than staying at a hostel. However, this is a fine choice for travellers on a hostel budget looking to avoid crowds. Things to know before you go: no curfew if you make prior arrangement, Wi-Fi, private lockers and a newly remodelled bathroom with laundry. Q 10 dorms €14 - 15. R6GW  U Burgera I-4, Ivana Franka 73, tel. 276 12 51, fax  Zamok Leva G-5, Glinky 7, tel. 297 15 63, fax 237 82  Free Downloads There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this print version of our latest guide. We print guides in more than 50 cities across Europe, and In Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for free download, in PDF, at our website. A number of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPaper documents. Just visit our website at inyourpocket.com for all our available downloads.  51, info@lioncastle.lviv.ua, www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Located in one of Lviv‘s most elite neighbourhoods, Zamok Leva offers guests serenity and comfort. The castle, constructed in 1898, was the brainchild of architect Arthur Schlein. Fourteen rooms of varying comfort and elegance are available and come equipped with refrigerator, cable TV, DVD-player (upon request), Internet access and telephone. Other services include covered parking, laundry, baggage storage, and complimentary newspapers and magazines. The restaurant offers an original mix of Austrian and European cuisine. Aside from the main dining hall, the VIP room can accommodate up to eight, the terrace is a romantic hotspot and the summer courtyard is set next to a tranquil park. The hotel‘s conference hall seats up to 30. Q14 rooms (1 standard 650 - 700Hr, 4 standards superior 500 - 550Hr, 4 business standards 700 - 750Hr, 3 junior suites 800 - 850Hr, 1 suite 1200 - 1250Hr, 1 standard in basement 300 - 350Hr). HR6FLGKDCW  296 65 69, info@burger.com.ua, www.burger.com.ua. We were a touch confused when we first entered the hotel: there‘s a beer tap mounted on the reception desk. I‘m sure were not the first visitors to wonder “Where the hell are we?” Since we had a few minutes to kill before our tour, we ordered a couple pints of Lvivske Premium and enjoyed. Rooms are comfortable and come in various themes. For example, the lux room sleeps up to four and looks like something Elton John would decorate. All rooms are equipped with satellite TV, Internet and telephone. General services include transfer from the airport and rail station, travel services, interpreter, car hire, room service and parking. A small conference hall is also available. Q18 rooms (10 standards 375 - 450Hr, 5 junior suites 525 - 600Hr, 3 suites 750 - 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHARLKW hhhh  Retro Hostel Shevchenko C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 16, tel./fax 240 37 61, info@hihostels.com.ua, www. hihostels.com.ua. Ideally located on one of Lviv‘s most central thoroughfares, Retro has a lot to offer. Choose from a single bed in a private room to a bed in a room with 13 potential new best friends and everything in between. Most rooms are spacious, and all rooms come with air conditioning and security lockers. Prices are competitive and the staff is very pleasant. A wide range of amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi and Internet access, breakfast (for an additional 2 euros), parking, tours, kitchen, bar, restaurant, barbecue area, pool table and hot tub. Q14 rooms (4 doubles €24 - 40, 2 triples €36, 2 quads €40, 52 dorm beds €7). JARW  Vienna B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 244 43 14/244  Mid-range Natalia 18 B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 7, tel./fax 242 20 68, natalia18@svitonline.com, www. natalia18.ho.com.ua. The quiet ambiance of this quaint hotel is a distinct contrast to the bustle of the lively little square that lies beyond the threshold. With only 22 rooms, it‘s easy to feel at home and the friendly English speaking staff knows how to accommodate. The tastefully remodelled rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, satellite TV, mini-bar and telephone. Natalia‘s restaurant is set in a comfy base-  43 15, fax 244 43 16, wienhotel@mail.lviv.ua, www. wienhotel.lviv.ua. Vienna‘s location, competitive prices and welcoming staff makes for an attractive combination. Even in the slow season rooms are hard to come by, so book ahead. All rooms have a cosy welcome home appeal, offer enthralling views of Lviv‘s lively centre and come equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV and Internet access. The summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coffee House restaurant, is one of the hottest venues in town. A billiard hall is also available. Q20 rooms (10 singles 450 - 520Hr, 4 doubles 500 - 570Hr, 2 triples 580Hr, 2 suites 750 - 820Hr, 2 junior suites 640 - 690Hr). PARLKW hhh  The Kosmonaut A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 8, tel./fax 260  Budget George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. 272 59 52, fax 297 11 44, info@georgehotel.com.ua, www.georgehotel. com.ua. Hotel George was founded by George Hoffman in 1901. The structure itself is a fine example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. The interior was restored in 1991 meaning that a touch of Soviet remains,  16 02, info@thekosmonaut.com, www.thekosmonaut. com. The Kosmonaut has become Lviv‘s most popular hostel for one simple reason: Aussie owner Eddie and his staff genuinely care about each and every guest. The enthusiasm they exude for their city is infectious. They know all the hotspots and never hesitate to let you in on where to go and what to do. You‘re sure to find yourself in the company of a fascinating and eclectic crowd of fellow travellers. We sat down for the complementary breakfast of baked apple, tea and toast and quickly found ourselves swapping life stories with two Peace Corps volunteers, a Dutch pensioner, an “AWOL” American soldier, two stranded Russian journalists and a Croat in town to find a Geiger counter. Accommodation options include 12, 10, 6 and 4 bed dormitories and one private room. A communal kitchen, free Internet and Wi-Fi and laundry are also available. Q5 rooms (1 double €28, 1 quad €52, 28 dorm beds €10 - 12). LGW  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  12  restAUrANts Lviv‘s dining scene is a reflection of the city‘s incredibly rich and diverse history. Every corner of global cuisine is represented (French, Greek, Italian, Viennese, Jewish, Asian, American, Latin, etc.), and local Ukrainian and Halytska (Galician) restaurants are among the finest in Ukraine. In the historic centre, you‘re never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience, and the standard of service is excellent. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that this guide serves as the solution to the overwhelming question: What‘s for dinner?  restAUrANts Symbol key P Air conditioning T Child friendly V Home delivery G Non-smoking areas O Casino L Guarded parking B Terrace A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled I Fireplace 6 Animal friendly E Live music W Wi-Fi internet access  13  Garmata H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. 295 82 22, www.  citadel-inn.com.ua. Located at the enthralling Citadel Inn, this elegant restaurant offers an inspiring panorama of Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spacious dining hall with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th Century Austria. The walls are decorated in various historical themes, and the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of Lviv. Though this is one of Lviv’s romantic hotspots, it is also ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking up with friends. The citadel’s cannons are fired on special occasions, and a children’s room is also available.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALGBSW  Kupol A-6, Chaikovskoho 37, tel. 261 44 54, www.  Czech Praga (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau and is set-off by reproductions of the tastefully provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. An English menu is in the works. For now, just close your eyes, point to an item and you won‘t be disappointed. The professional English speaking staff is at your service to help with your selection. Praga knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich flavour. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGSW  Europe C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 14, tel. 261 19 71,  www.restourant-europa.com. With its tasteful atmosphere, Europe is perfect for a relaxed or romantic meal. The menu is simple but exquisite; even with the limited selection you‘ll have a hard time deciding between the succulent fish, meat and poultry dishes. The wine card and cocktail selection are scanty so go with food on your mind. A minimum bill charge of 250Hr applies for using the private dining area. Located upstairs (watch your step) it can accommodate up to 10, but is lacking in elbow room. Great breakfast specials are available daily. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALGBW  kupol.lviv.ua. Imagine that your Polish-Ukrainian aunt has invited you for dinner. By the way, the year is 1955. Kupol blends a homey atmosphere, traditional Polish cuisine and antiques from the early 20th Century to create one of Lviv‘s most unforgettable dining experiences. Add to that reasonable prices and limited seating and…well, you‘d be wise to book ahead. The pork in cranberry sauce is particularly popular. The separate banquet hall accommodates up to 20. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PJAGBSW  Italian Valentino C-5, Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho 20, tel. 274 50 61, www.valentino.lviv.ua. Valentino fills in the gaps left by many of Lviv’s restaurants, i.e. the Italian chef has put together a stunning menu of authentic favourites. Renown for their extensive wine card, the classic atmosphere and scrumptious cuisine make this an obvious choice for those with Italian on their minds. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTAGESW  European Amadeus Kathedral’na pl. 7, tel. 261 50 22. When the roof is shut on the summer terrace it‘s impossible to see the sign to this popular restaurant located in the heart of old town. If you get turned around, just look next to the Diamant Jeweller‘s workshop. With one of the most eclectic menus in Lviv, it‘s hard to go wrong and the pork steak Amadeus comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service standards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but not too over the top atmosphere make this a popular expat haunt. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PAB  Fashion Club B-4, pl. Ivana Pidkovy 1, tel. 272 88 91.  Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. 55 08 32,  Fashion Club is fronted by one of Svobody prospect‘s largest and most popular outdoor seating areas. The ambiance of the restaurant area isn‘t quit as fashionable as one might expect, nevertheless, the kitchen is open `round the clock and whips up a plethora of European: English breakfast for late night partiers/early-birds, Italian antipasto for lunch and T-bone steaks and filet mignon for dinner. The club is located in the back, attracts some of the more talented local DJs and is open nightly from 11:00 to 5:00. Admission is free Monday through Wednesday. Thursday is ladies‘ night and Friday through Sunday attracts a diverse and vibrant crowd. €€€. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.PA tel. 272 40 91, www.ghggroup.com.ua. Known for its attention to detail and service standards that cater specifically to foreign travellers, Grand Hotel Restaurant is perfect for both romantic dinners and lively business luncheons. Ukrainian and European cuisine make up a menu highlighted by the kitchen‘s own creations. For a memorable bite of Lviv, try the Grand Hotel pork (stuffed grilled pork served in a coconut milk and pepper sauce) and the Grand Hotel cake (a secret recipe chocolate cake). Located on Lviv‘s main strolling prospects, the summer terrace is one of the city‘s most popular dining spots. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAULEGBSW  Svitlytsia Leva B-3, Tetral’na 16, tel. 295 95 15. Everything about the Leopolis Hotel is stunning and superior, and the hotel’s restaurant is no exception. Amazingly, this could be the best value for hryvnia in town. In the west, when we go out for a cream-of-the-crop experience we expect to pay cream-of-the-crop prices; you’ll be shocked at how affordable this place really is. Highlights include a Grilled Yellow Fin Tuna, Grilled Stuffed Pork Rolls, Rich Lamb Chops and a delicious Seabass Fillet. Servers are well acquainted with western standards and speak fluent English. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. €€€. PA6IEGSW Vienna Coffee House B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 272 20 21, fax 272 24 52, wienkaffe@mail.lviv.ua, www. wienkaffe.lviv.ua. At Lviv‘s epicentre you‘ll find the Wien Hotel and the popular Vienna Coffee House. The venue is split in two with a café on one side and an elegant restaurant/ banquet room on the other. Order anything on the menu with the word “Viennese” attached and you won‘t be disappointed. The Viennese schnitzel with mushroom sauce could be the best schnitzel this side of the Danube. It‘s easy to become glued to your seat on the relaxing summer terrace, a perfect location for sipping rich coffee and gorging on apple strudel. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGBW  Halytska Restoratsiya na Valoviy D-4, Valova 25, tel. 272 59 73. You can always tell how refined a restaurant is by the number of forks set near the plate: this place had four. The dining area is decorated with classic prints and exciting original paintings by local artists. The chef‘s dedication to flavour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go with the understanding that quality takes time, and that all available Galician and European dishes are well worth the wait. The menu‘s highlights include one of the city‘s best seafood selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and the Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be ordered 24 hours in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS  www.atmosphera.lviv.ua. For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining trends represent a revolt against the drab stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafés that were once the only option. Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to go with the ultra-chic ambiance. The menu features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room and a popular pub/club. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. ESW  Grand Hotel Restaurant B-4, Svobody prosp. 13,  Japaneese Sushi Kappo-IN D-6, Levyts’koho 8, tel. 245 31 09. Sushi Kappo‘s ultra-relaxing atmosphere literally put me to sleep; the charming waitress had to startle me awake in order to keep me from falling face first into the plate. The previous night had been a wild one (as is often the case in Lviv) and Kappo‘s zesty selection of sushi was just what the doctor ordered. Located on the edge of centre, it‘s well worth the 10 minute walk. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PLGS  Darwin B-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. 294 82 05. The  €1 = 10.68Hr; US$1 = 7.61Hr (22 June 2009 official rates)  name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to the father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement announcing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement of Lviv‘s restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth floor of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. The menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selections found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and savoury salmon dishes. There‘s also an enticingly unique offering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and wine basted venison. Being a popular cigar club, the finest smokes are available and smoking is permitted throughout the restaurant. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Darwin tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking the way to go. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PW  Brewery Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. 242 17 80. The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. It‘s definitely worth your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). We were particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and beer munchies. For exceptional service, just push the little call button. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGBS  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  14  restAUrANts Fast food & Sandwiches Bistro B-317 A-4, Kosciuszka 6, tel. 72 87 47/243 93 17. B-317 is pricier than some of the competition, but the portions are large and everything is tasty and fresh. The creamy mashed potatoes and pork cutlet, just like grandma used to make, are a delectable cure for those low-budget hunger pains. Traditional Ukrainian is served up behind the counter and they also do pizza (delivery available). Get a 20% discount after 20:00. QOpen 8:30 - 22:00. €. PS  restAUrANts SushiYA C-5, Soborna pl. 17, tel. 235 61 58. Sushi restaurants have spread through Ukraine faster than a medieval plague and SushiYA has become one of the most recognized and respected chains of the lot. Always conveniently located, the service is unobtrusive, the atmosphere pleasant and the sushi invitingly more delicious than the reasonable prices might otherwise suggest. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. tel. 272 27 57/260 19 43, fax 260 16 43, office@ pizza-nys.com.ua, www.pizza-nys.com.ua. When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked at me as if I had a second head growing out of my ear. “Onions on pizza? Don‘t be ridiculous.” I rescanned the toppings list to make sure I wasn‘t the butt of a practical joke. Indeed…no onions. You can top your pie with imitation crab sticks and corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and mushrooms and it turned out to be quite tasty. Though “Ukrainian” Street Pizza would be a more fitting name, this is a nice pick for those in a hurry and short of cash. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; Chervonoyi Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4; Henerala Chuprynky 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. €. PGBS  15  New York Street Pizza A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5,  Yapi B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. 272 28 01, www.  DeMandjaro C-4, Halyts’ka 10, tel. 297 01 71, www.demanjaro.com. The selection is quit impressive for a fast food joint. Choose from pizzas, burgers, steaks, shashlyk, potatoes, ice cream, cakes, etc. Items are listed in Ukrainian only, but luckily for us words like “steak”, “burger” and “pizza” don‘t need a translation. Though popular with poor students and budget minded families, the entrance and outdoor seating area happens to be on Halyts‘ka vul., one of Lviv‘s most classy and romantic streets. Also at Staroyevreis‘ka 4, Doroshenka 19, prosp. Chervonoyi Kalyny 36. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. €. PTAUGBS  egoisty.com. The only English that appears on Yapi‘s menu is their slogan, compliments of Bobby McFerrin, that reads “Don‘t worry be happy“. The menu‘s vivid photos make language redundant: just point to whatever looks good and the colourful friendly staff will take over. The restaurant‘s interior resembles the stereotypical Japanese café seen in films with glass tables suspended from cables, glass chairs framed in steel and hints of neon. Inviting lunch specials, an imaginative sushi selection and a unique array of salads sets this sushi joint apart. The second level seating offers a unique perspective of Svobody‘s pedestrian traffic. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGBS  Seafood Panorama A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 225 90 09. Located on the seventh floor of the Opera Hotel, Panorama offers an unmatched view of the Opera House and of Lviv‘s historic centre. The summer terrace and the tables closest to the view are extremely popular. Booking ahead will insure a spectacular evening. The eclectic menu reads like poetry: “Veal medallions with forest mushrooms and black truffle sauce“. The Caesar salad has procured a cult following and the crab soup is unbelievably rich. If you‘re hoping to spark a new romance or just kick start an old love, this is the obvious place to start or finish your evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALEGBSW  Yapona Khata C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. 297 51 17,  Hit-Café A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. 261 67 88.  Hit offers up familiar western favourites including pizza, spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and meat dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsch and pickled herring under a fur coat. It‘s possible to satisfy your hunger for less than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step up from the standard fast food joint. Also at B-6, Jokhara Dudaeva 7, tel. 261 17 72; F-4, Kyivs‘ka 7, tel. 237 77 67; F-3, Mytropolyta Andreya 8, tel. 237 77 21. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €. PTA6B  www.yaponahata.com. The name suggests a Japanese take on the Ukrainian “khatas” that dominate the country‘s low budget dining market. We were understandably surprised by the relatively high prices, but (as we say in the West) you get what you pay for. The location is exceptional and the inventive sushi choices more than justify the blow to your wallet. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAGBSW  Jewish Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu C-4, Staroyevreis’ka, near the Synagogue. This Jewish restaurant is located downhill from the ruins of the Golden Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in Ukraine. The outdoor seating is exceptional and helps make this a dining hotspot. Here are a few things to know before you go. 1. There are no prices listed on the menu as you are expected to barter. Being a foreigner, they‘re likely to just quote you a reasonable price. 2. For the right price you can secretly arrange to have your waiter smuggle in some pork dishes. How kosher is this place? 3. They offer a fantastic selection of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician desserts and traditional Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of Lviv you‘ll never forget, try the homemade vodka. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€€. A  Ukrainian Hors C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 5, tel. 235 41 57, www.hors. com.ua. Hors was the Slavic god of the winter sun whom ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing and survival. The stairs leading to the restaurant have been described as “fifteen stairs to the 15th Century“. You are not entering a basement, this is actually a renovated section of an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of the arched walls were set in the 15th Century. The unique mysterious atmosphere is definitely worth checking out, but don‘t get too distracted as the menu offers its own intrigue with items like salmon with spinach, steaks and dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed Thursday-Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW  Kartopliana Khata D-5, Lychakivs’ka 4-6, tel. 242  05 26. This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara themed fast food joint where patrons can order a baked potato served in small bowl and topped with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, “spicy” wings, barbeque ribs and traditional salads are also on hand. A popular lunch spot, this is a nice choice if you‘re in a rush. €. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PAGS  Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. 244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. Albeit a low-budget, family-friendly, a la carte eatery, Puzata Khata has a knack for establishing itself in prime locations. This is true of the Lviv restaurant sandwiched between Svobody prosp. and Ivan Franko National University. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th Century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill your gut for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Horodots’ka 300 (open 08:00 - 22:00). €. PAIGS  Latin American Alpaca C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 272 50 41. Alpaca has your Latin cravings covered. For those who like it spicy, try the jalapeños rellenos - they kick like a painted Tijuana burro. This is a fine choice for the whole family. Mom and Pop can choose from one of five variations of Margarita and the kids will love the nachos, burritos, enchiladas and the surprise souvenirs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PALG  Kentavr C-3, pl. Rynok 34, tel. 72 05 12. Kentavr is the  Pizza Celentano C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. 237 07 07/237 08 08, fax 297 19 14, www.pizza-celentano.com. This established pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, crêpes with different fillings and pasta dishes are also on offer. Do the roof of your mouth a favour and let the extremely hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly service and speedy delivery have become this in-and-out pizzeria‘s trademarks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Kopernika 9; prosp. Svobody 24; Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123; Vyhovskoho 47a; Horodotska 141. €. PGBS  Steak House J-4, Pekarska 31, tel. 276 67 06.  Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget lunch/dinner counter in that it offers a freshly grilled piece of carcass to go with all the usual á la carte salads and side dishes. There‘s no English menu available so allow us to introduce some vocabulary that will help with your order: for a beef steak say “steak z yalovychyny”, for a pork steak “steak z svynyny” and for grilled chicken “steak z kuryatyny”. Their specialty, the “lambada“, is a massive, spicy pork steak garnished with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet peppers and corn. €. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. S  mythical god with the head and torso of a man and body of a horse. Oddly enough, Kentavr has no connection to this restaurant or its cuisine, but it is a pretty kick-butt mascot. The dining area has a laid back atmosphere with inspiring paintings, some of which are the works of local painters and can be purchased. Ukrainian and European dominate the menu. Vareneky, pork dishes of all shapes and sizes and savoury fish dishes are some of the highlights. Rich desserts, such as the chocolate “Praga“ cake, four types of strudel and cheesecake, go great with the specialty teas, which arrive to the table in fancy pots. Brunch is served daily from 11:00-13:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. PALEGSW  Price guide The average price for a main course: €€€€ more than €20 per person €€€ €15 - 20 per person €€ €10 - 15 per person € less than €10 per person  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  16  restAUrANts Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa G-2, Kleparivs’ka 18, tel. 242 25 94, www.robertdoms.lviv.ua. Robert Doms, an aristocratic young Swiss man, brought his brewing talent to Lvivske Brewery in the 1850s. Every morning a young Lvivian maiden named Zosia would bring Robert a five litre tankard of the previous day‘s brew, which he would guzzle (a crude but effective means of quality control). With the help of his extremely thick beer-goggles, Robert soon fell in love and married Zosia. The pub, located in one of Lvivske Brewery‘s cellars (a 15 minute walk from centre) is a fitting tribute to Rob‘s contribution to Lviv‘s beer industry and to his and Zosia‘s touching romantic tale. The energy here is unmatched in Lviv and live music echoes through the cellar‘s halls nightly. With hearty Ukrainian meals served for up to six, the fantastic menu encourages a communal dining experience. Who knows, guzzle enough fresh brew and you too might hook-up with your own Zosia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. AEGS supply, but the servers are charming and patient (they‘ve seen your kind before). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. GBS  CAfés Veronica C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. 261 44 56, www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most eateries were deserted, Veronica only had a couple tables available in the basement. The interior is tight but classy and the soft lighting adds to the romantic ambiance. The menu is mostly European with some Ukrainian and a sprinkling of other world favourites. Choose from four varieties of fondue, an impressive selection of fish dishes and mouth watering breads and desserts baked fresh on site. With western classics such as the European breakfast croissant with ham and veggies, this is winning choice for breakfast. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€€.AGBS Welcome to Ukraine’s coffee capital! Life for Lvivians revolves around the café, and it’s no wonder that there is an endless selection of establishments to choose from. Indeed, it’s theoretically possible to visit a different café everyday and never see the same place twice. No matter where you end up, you’re sure to find a charming atmosphere, rich aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts a variety of must-visit theme cafés that brilliantly introduce and preserve the city’s diverse history and culture. If you’re a coffee lover, you’ve come to the right place. For those that are indifferent, prepare to get hooked.  17  Have Your Say If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews).  Uzbek Bukhara A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. 244 42 25. Reasonable prices, a unique atmosphere and hearty authentic Uzbek cuisine keep this place busy every night of the week. An English menu is available upon request. The shurpa (mutton soup) was some of the best we‘ve ever sampled and the cheburek (Uzbek meat pie), pilaf and shashlik are all dripping with authenticity. Despite the crowded house, the food arrived quickly and with a smile. The cosy cottage interior bends time and offers a view into an obscure land where most dream to travel, but never catch a flight. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW  Cabinet D-4, Vynnychenka 12, tel. 272 05 12. Cabi-  Porokhova Vezha D-3, Pidval’na 4, tel. 276 51 62. This  popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find. It‘s located across the street from the Dominican Cathedral in the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoying a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers ascending and descending Vysokyi Zamok Hill. English is in short  net is the embodiment of Lviv‘s coffee culture: laid-back, intelligent and delicious. The defining feature is the quaint library, which contains a small selection of works in English (mostly guides and souvenir coffee table books). The coffee is distinctively rich and the offering of Ukrainian cuisine hearty. This is a perfect pit-stop for those perusing the area‘s numerous sites of interest including the Arsenal Museum, the Dominican Cathedral and the Assumption Church. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AW  Café 1 C-4, Kathedral’na pl. 5, tel. 242 33 69. The  Borsch and kasha – that’s our food Don’t let this Ukrainian proverb fool you, there is a lot more to Ukrainian cuisine than beet soup and porridge. The wealth of plants and animals raised in this fertile land account for a rich and varied diet. In addition, the cuisine has been enriched by past contacts with Europe and Asia. Despite the foreign influences, there is something original and distinctive about the way Ukrainians transform food into cuisine. Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked ingredients. While cooking techniques are not complicated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly spiced nor bland, but skillfully seasoned to perfection. Bread is, of course, the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 different ways of preparing bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is a custom to give honoured guests and departing or arriving travellers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitaries and other important persons. Another staple of the Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. Borsch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even making its appearance on the menus of Asian and European restaurants in Lviv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup has been adopted by other countries in the region, but as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many versions of borsch served throughout the country reflect the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, depending on the season, region, and of course, personal preference of the cook. The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available at certain times of year. Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce-based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. With so many different recipes, the only constant of Ukrainian salads are the presence of vinegar or mayonnaise. Varenyky are dumplings made from boiled or fried dough, resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mushrooms for an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can be accompanied by butter or sour crème. The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pigeons,” but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or buckwheat and often covered with a thin tomato sauce. There are many different kinds of pastries and cakes, usually less sweet than those made outside of continental Europe. For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city. During any walk down the main streets of Lviv, a visitor will notice that local beers (pyvo) are sold at almost every kiosk and tables on sidewalks and street corners. While Ukraine does not have the history of beer making that Germany or Belgium boast of, it is still a very popular drink. There are several major beer brewing companies in Ukraine: Obolon, Slavutych, Chernihivske, Lvivske, Sarmat. Ukrainians are especially fond of spending time outdoors with a cold beer, watching and meeting other people, and talking with friends. This a common summer ritual when the weather warms up.  smell of fermented grapes is sure to perk your nostrils as you enter this small but inviting café. The focus here is wine, and the simple yet delectable dishes such as ravioli and quiche Loraine compliment the full-bodied reds and delicate whites. Ideally located in the heart of the old town, tables can sometimes be hard to find, but any wait is well worth it. Wonderful English speaking service is available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALGB  Freska B-3, Krakivs’ka 9, tel. 272 49 85. As you take  Cukiernia C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 3, tel. 274 09 49, www.  cukiernia.com.ua. The menu opens with a quote from an unknown author “...only the sweet eaters are considered to be the most important members of society.“ Indeed, with a name like Cyksernia (sweet shop) you‘re guaranteed to leave with a sugar buzz. They don‘t miss a page from babushka‘s cookbook and bake up everything from cakes and rolls to strudels, pastries and cookies. The tasty selection of crêpes and the Viennese breakfast make this a hotspot for brunch. Local kids swarm like ravenous bees in the early afternoon for ice cream, sundaes and shakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AS  your seat the charming server will place on the table a cute little bell that you can ring for service. Revered for their classic Lviv-style coffee (rich and aromatic) and extensive tea card, they‘re even more renowned for their uniquely delectable candies, cakes and chocolate fondue. The pleasant atmosphere and summer terrace perched on Krakivs‘ka vul., a lively pedestrian thoroughfare, make this a fine choice for indulging in a local‘s favourite pastime of lounging for hours on a café stool. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PGB  Gasova Lyampa C-3, Virmens’ka 20, tel. 236 75 50.  Double Coffee C-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. 74 22 48,  www.doublecoffee.com. ua/eng. This popular Eastern European café chain catches your eye with its wonderfully illustrated menu. The selection of coffee and coffee cocktails is impressive as are the tempting dishes and snacks: crêpes, sushi, soups, salads, pasta and sweets. For something familiar and quick for breakfast, try one of the delicious omelettes with crunchy toast. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. AS  To find this fascinating eatery, head up Virmens‘ka until you see the unmistakable bronze statue of a dude sitting next to a lamp. This is Ignacy Łukasiewicz, founder of the Polish oil industry and inventor of the kerosene lamp. The restaurant/museum housed within is a tribute to the mark he left on history. (An interesting side note: Łukasiewicz was not a resident of Lviv by choice, but was exiled here by Austrian authorities wary of his membership in a Polish revolutionary organization.) The scene is always energised and the menu items, especially the fish dishes, won‘t leave you indifferent. This is yet another great addition to the city‘s captivating theme scene. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.  Italiys’kyi Dvoryk (Italian Yard) C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 297 53 66. This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornyakt Palace on Rynok ploshca (Market Square). Lvivians, visitors to the palace‘s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover‘s oasis. Completely severed from the complexities of the outside world, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. Mellow music, delectable fragrances and stunning art and architecture make for a truly special café experience. The coffee is rich and tasty. Throughout the summer patrons beat the heat by sipping frosty beers, cool cocktails and frothy milkshakes. If it all looks familiar, you‘ve probably seen this courtyard in one of the many local and foreign films that shot scenes here. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 1Hr. UEB  Frantsishka B-3, Krakivs’ka 18, tel. 255 08 96. Frantsishka‘s mellow atmosphere is perfect for washing away the previous night‘s regret(s). Milk cocktails and the most extensive selection of tea in the city calm the upset stomach and sooth thumping headaches. A small yet inviting selection of cakes and sweets are on hand to compliment the thick aromatic coffee. The only problem kicked in when the chirpy over tly bright yellow canary began to serenade the coffee grinder. Our initial impulse was to strangle them both, but we quickly fell back into the calming mood and all was well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. UGBS  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  18  CAfés to be slowly caving in on itself. (If you‘re looking for sparkly, new and trendy keep walking.) Though they welcome outsiders, everything is geared for locals. However, the service and coffee are first-rate and the atmosphere is one of a kind. We noticed that most of the food items were being warmed up in the microwave: stick to coffee or beer, enjoy the ambiance and then get out before the whole place turns to ruble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Lviv‘s clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more awkward on the dance floor than we are in the west, so shrug off your inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warning: Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners to party at their table. We‘ve learned from repeated experience that it‘s impossible for a westerner to keep pace with locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and steady wins the horilka race.  Nightlife Rumba Bar C-4, Staroyevreis‘ka 4, tel. 235 70 62. Located in the heart of Old Town, Rumba offers two inviting and contrasting atmospheres. Upstairs it‘s dance, house music and Fashion TV. The basement is mellower and stages live music every Saturday and Sunday (usually a guy playing a keyboard, singing his heart out). A hefty selection of imports is on tap. Have the barman slice you off a hunk of the specialty pork leg jerky, you‘ll be hooked. The dishes are quite possibly the most inventive in town. For example, the Mykhaylivska plate is stuffed chicken wings, pork ribs and homemade sausages and the very confused Rafter‘s Dinner is a schnitzel in a potato cake with Mexican homemade vodka. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAIEG BSW  19  Praga Café (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel.  274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The twisted ornamental steel is a nice touch of Art Nouveau, the coffee is loaded and the aroma of fresh cakes and sweats gnaws at the belly. Despite not having a menu in English (coming soon), this has become a popular expat hang-out. The service is exceptional and the atmosphere is smart and inviting QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAEGBSW Shevchenka prospekt  Bars & Pubs Beer Garden I-4, Ivana Franka 29, tel. 276 21 76. A popular local‘s hang, the offering of brew bursts at the keg welds compared to the scant selection of Ukrainian fare. However, flavour swirls up from the grill, fills the halls and rushes through the open courtyard tying knots of anticipation in the guts of eager patrons. The wings, ribs and shashlyk are all worthy of mention. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PILGBS Dublin A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 5, tel. 272 88 74, www. dublin.com.ua. Wow! A reasonably priced Irish pub. This must be a first for Ukraine. Tucked away on a pedestrian alleyway, this a great place to meet-up, suck on an Irish steak or just sip a tasty import and watch sports. The only thing amiss on our visit was Axl‘s screechy voice blaring throughout the pub as the bartender insisted on playing a Guns N‘ Roses video. Yet another reminder that nothing in life is perfect, especially here in Ukraine. We vowed to come back later in black ski masks, wielding clubs and hockey sticks, rob the Guns N‘ Roses DVD and replace it with some U2, but those types of plans never pan out. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB  Clubs Cult B-5, Chaikovs‘koho 7, tel. 242 22 42. Kult is a tribute Lviv‘s icons past and present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you may only recognise a couple faces like pop star Ruslana or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Cult is perhaps best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that is staged nightly from 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAIEGSW  Sonata C-4, Valova 13, tel. 274 42 29. If Sonata doesn‘t  Kryjivka C-4, pl. Rynok 14, tel. 254 61 18/8 095 260 45 46, fax 54 61 18, www.kryjivka.com.ua. When the uniformed guard opens the peep-hole to this theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Ukraini” (Glory to Ukraine), that‘s your cue to respond “Heroyam slava” (Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49. It‘s also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, you‘ll find a fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles and other military antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated to the memory of their sacrifice. Tables can be scarce, so book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AW  already have a motto they should consider: great prices and friendly ambiance! The aroma of roasting Kraków pork fills this quaint two level café. The soups are scrumptious, the salads are tasty and their varenyky (Ukrainian-style dumplings) is top notch. The popular outdoor seating is located across from the café at Halyts‘ka pl. and offers a close up view of King Danylo‘s horse‘s ass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.  Svit Kavy C-4, pl. Katedralna 6, tel. 297 56 75/8  Masoch Café C-4, Serbs’ka 7, tel. 272 18 72, www.  masoch-cafe.lviv.ua. This titillating theme café/restaurant is dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in Lviv in 1836. Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and insisted that his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word masochism was coined from his name. The menu, which can be purchased as a souvenir (in Ukrainian only), is loaded with fabulous and unusual dishes. If your husband is having difficulties deciding on a meal, he‘s probably too distracted by the pornography that appears on the menu and you should order for him. He‘s sure to appreciate the bull‘s testicles in an oil and sweet pepper sauce. They boast the best fondue in town and the waitresses will handcuff and whip you free of charge. On your way out the door, don‘t forget to reach into Leopold‘s pocket for this café‘s version of a fortune cookie. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PABSW  095 523 13 18, fax 272 72 83. An ideal location, limited space and great coffee mean that you might have to wait for a table. The café is actually divided into two sections that have separate entrances next door to each other, so if one place is full hop over to the other. The smaller room sells beans to go and displays an interesting array of antique grinders and other coffee paraphernalia. The fact that the place is tightly packed intensifies the awesome aromas. A small yet delicious selection of cakes and treats is also available. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGBS  Metro Zelena 14, tel. 242 07 88, www.metroclub.com. ua. Those who think that there’s no metro in Lviv couldn’t be more mistaken. So what if it won’t transport you around the city, Metro is one of Lviv’s most popular clubs. Progressive and cutting edge, the Red Phone hall spins Euro Hit Parade and the impressive dance floor is usually packed with a diverse group of partiers, expats included. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. PESW  Korzo Pub C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 10, tel. 225 70 92.  Valente C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. 94 87 15. The  tiramisu, Praga cake and euphoria cake are all unrelentingly gorgeous. The laid back atmosphere provides the perfect compliment for the frothy cappuccino. Indeed, this is a fine choice if you just want to unwind with pleasant conversation, i.e. you won‘t be bombarded with dance music and Fashion TV. This is also one of the more spacious coffee shops you‘ll find in centre. Place your order at the counter and divchina (girl-waitress) will bring your order to the table. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PUG  This Lvivian version of the neighbourhood pub will definitely raise your spirits and inspire fond memories of back home. There‘s always a game playing on the LCDs; however, cheers of the winning goal are likely to be drowned out by the lively chatter. Paulaner, Murphy‘s and Pilsner Urquell are available on tap. The menu offers everything from tasty beer snacks to satisfying Ukrainian and international meals. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PE  Sophia Grand Club C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel.  Piano Bar B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 272 76 65. Piano  Virmenka C-3, Virmens’ka 19, tel. 97 56 37. At Virmenka  Pid Klepsydroyu D-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. 297 56 12,  www.dzyga.com. This trendy café is located where the sidewalk ends on Virmens‘ka vul. We went on a Friday night and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The main hall and upstairs seating are cosy and buzz with animated banter. In contrast, the outdoor seating offers a tranquil vantage point for watching sunsets through the narrow crag created by the inspiring architecture that lines Virmens‘ka. The menu is brief but inviting; for a taste found nowhere else on earth, try the pig fat in chocolate. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GBW  you‘re not going to get tableside service, nor service in English. However, if you‘re bold enough to approach the burly woman scowling from behind the counter and say “coffee, budlaska (please)”, you will get an exquisite espresso, the kind that coats the bottom of the cup with a heavy aromatic sludge. The spinning box on the counter is the menu, but everything worth having is in plain view (wine, tea, beer, cakes, etc.). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AG ed in the basement of the historic Vening‘s House, the décor harkens back to the building‘s Gothic roots. The menu offers a hearty selection of tasty Ukrainian morsels. They have a great selection of veal and pork dishes, homemade sausages and enticing oddities such as tongue and brains. We tried the pork in beer, which turned out to be a nice treat - both filling and refreshing. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GW  Bar has an elegant café appeal and is an excellent venue for those looking to escape with a cup of Lviv-style coffee or a cocktail. Located at the Grand Hotel, the service standards are intently tuned to the needs of the foreign traveller. The menu is simple, but familiar and includes canapé with caviar, chicken sandwiches, hamburgers and fish selection for beer. The desert selection is stunning and is highlighted by Grand‘s own secret recipe chocolate cake. Despite the elegant ambiance, prices are quite reasonable. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PALEW  72 90 00, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Sophia Grand Club is the pinnacle of Lviv’s nightlife. Everything you need is under one roof: Disco Bar Platinum, Grand Club Casino, Alpaca restaurant, a billiard hall and even a fitness centre. Owned and operated by the Grand Hotel, the complex is geared for first rate entertainment and relaxation. Platinum is the place to be for dancing, cocktails and European cuisine (open 21:00 - 06:00, closed Mon, Tue); the casino is equipped with the standard selection of table games including roulette, Black Jack and poker (open 19:00 - 17:00); Alpaca offers some of the most authentic Latin cuisine in the city (see the Where to Eat section for more information). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. CPTAULEGW  Split Club Lviv B-5, pl. Mickiewicza 6/7, tel. 242 22  Praga Pub A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 274 12  Zolotyi Vepr C-4, pl. Rynok 17, tel. 272 67 94. Locat-  Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. 294 91 53. Through an alleyway, under a staircase and beyond a decrepit yard you‘ll find a hidden coffee house where everything seems  20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they expect only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this tradition by serving fresh from the source Budvar, Krušovice and other classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the basement of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant and café on the ground floor. Its welcoming neighbourhood appeal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down or viewing a big game. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAEG BSW  00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stop-shop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant also features a private dining room where an itamae whips up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. In the casino, gamblers can try their luck at slots, roulette, Black Jack and six types of poker including Texas hold ‚em. Drinks are complimentary in the VIP hall. Split‘s strip club is renowned for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The club‘s specialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are also available. A 50Hr admission fee applies for the strip club. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTAILE GSW  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  20  WhAt to see Lviv’s old town is so densely packed with mesmerizing, inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often become paralyzed with fascination and never leave. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a vivid collage of centuries gone by. C-4, pl. Rynok 1. The first city hall was established on Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the middle of the 14th Century. Constructed of wood, it was levelled by fire in 1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th Century. The contemporary building is a conglomeration of the 15th Century structure and three major expansions. The stone tower that hovers above the hall is the second of its kind. The original was erected in 1619, but by the beginning of the 19th Century was deemed unstable and demolished. The 65 meter high replacement is a replica of the original. Pace yourselves, it‘s 306 steps up to the viewing platform. In 2008 a local pornographer boldly used City Hall‘s roof as a backdrop for photos, which were splashed all over the Internet. This embarrassment led local authorities to implement stricter security measures including the installation of surveillance cameras. Smile… you‘re being watched by a Ukrainian security cop.  WhAt to see Ratusha (City Hall) chant named Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice. Fragments of the older structures have been preserved and include the Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lviv‘s Gothic influence) and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third floor ceiling. Following Kornjakt‘s death, the house was taken over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan III. From this time on the house served as a royal roost. In 1634 the residence was occupied for a short time by Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown.The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace in 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One of the brightest expositions of any of the city‘s museums, the Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palace‘s Italian Yard is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed.  21  Essential Lviv 5, tel. 72 70 60. The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible from Arsenal vul. Construction on the original two-storied stone building began in the 14th Century, but was not completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this original structure was completely destroyed by fire after only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary building was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the Swedes invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all holes were patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th Centuries the arsenal was refortified and lost some of its original form. Most recently, two of the upper floors were restored and now house a museum. Parts of the exterior have been excavated in order to reveal original walls, windows and roof. The distinctive defensive trench has been also been preserved. Throughout its working history the arsenal served as Lviv‘s defensive backbone. A smelting-house was located next to the arsenal and cast weapons for storage and for sale. The swords forged in Lviv gained the reputation as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th Century the arsenal was also used as a prison. It was here that Polish authorities imprisoned haydamaks, Ukrainian peasant rebels resisting Polish tyranny.  Arsenal D-4, Pidval’na  Don’t forget to take some bread for doves  City tours Kamianyi Lev B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. 245 22 20. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.  C-3, pl. Rynok 4. This exceptional archi tectural monument of the 16th-17th Centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in the whole of Europe. Construction on this alluring structure began in 1588 and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey sandstone. The imposing black colour is a product of long-term absorption by the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the market (coal was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The name Black Stone House didn‘t always apply, it was previously known as Kyiv Stone House and Doctor‘s Stone House. In 1926 the building was bought by the city and a branch of Lviv‘s historical museum was soon established. pl. Rynok 6, tel. 74 33 04. This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to the palace‘s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover‘s oasis. Completely severed from the complexities outside, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. The mellow music and delectable fragrances make for a truly special café experience. If it all looks familiar, you‘ve probably seen the courtyard one of the many local and foreign films that shot scenes here. Concerts are occasionally staged here; the courtyard is known for its uncanny acoustic resonance. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 1Hr, students and senior citizen 0,5Hr.  Chorna Kamiany tsa (Black Stone House)  Churches & Cathedrals B-3, Rus’ka 7. This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for centuries. In the middle of the 16th Centur y, the Assumption Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great fire of 1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure, the fire of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement was completed in 1559 and, you guessed it, was completely destroyed by fire in 1571. The danger posed by fire was apparently driven home and the cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present. Also located on the premises are Kornjakt‘s Tower and the Chapel of Three Prelates. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.  Italiys’kyi Dvoryk C-3,  and space gush through old town‘s veins and swirl ‘round R ynok ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour and sound. With its stunning palaces, fountains, statues, crowds, cafés and pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok Square is the heart of this magnificent city. Throughout the Middle Ages stone weights and balances clanked with each sale, livestock pleaded and villains writhed in pain at the punishment stake. Amazingly, within this relatively small area there are 45 protected architectural monuments. Each structure has its own captivating history, but the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornyakt Palace (also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era, the government has always kept a keen eye on the square. The imposing structure in the middle is City Hall Rus‘ka vul. has been an established thoroughfare since the Middle Ages. Connecting Rynok ploscha (Market Square) with Pidval‘na vul. (Rampart Street), the street is so narrow that only one street car can travel at a time. Blending a fascinating array of architectural styles, Rus‘ka is one of the most striking streets in the old city. For centuries this remained Lviv‘s centre of Orthodox Christianity. During Polish rule, this was the only street where an Orthodox believer was allowed to own real estate. From Rus‘ka there was a passage to an old Jewish ghetto. Residents constructed walls and a gate, which was secured at night in order to protect from pogroms. If there‘s a building that stands out it‘s No. 4. Constructed in the 16th Century, an old-Austrian style café called Synia Pliashka sits in the court yard and the building itself is currently occupied by the Gerdan Art Gallery.  Ploscha Rynok (Market Square) C-3/4. Time  Uspens’ka Tserk va (Assumption Church)  Lemberg Tour C-3, pl. Rynok 2, tel. 297 53 59,  lemberg-tour@ukr.net, www.tourinfo.lviv.ua. Lemberg Tour manages tourist information centre on Rynok Square and provides Lviv city tours and tours around Ukraine. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Ofit Service G-2, Ivana Ohiyenka 13, tel. 272 26 83, fax 272 26 86, info@ofit-travel.com.ua, www. ofit-travel.com.ua. Ofit travel provides Lviv city tours in English, Polish, German, French, Spanish and Ilalian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Piligrim A-5, Kopernyka 26, tel. 297 05 51/297 05 52, travel@piligrim.lviv.net, www.piligrim.lviv.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Wseswit B-5, F. Lista 3/3, tel./fax 297 05 68, wseswit@wseswit.lviv.ua, www.wseswit.lviv.ua. Wseswit provides incoming tours to Lviv and Ukraine, reservation of airline and railway tickets, transfer arrangements. Carpathians, health-resorts of Carpathians, Morshyn, Truskavets, trips to Crimea, reservation of hotels and car rent are also available. Ticket dilivery is free around Lviv. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A6UL  Rus’ka Street C/D-4.  Kornjakt Palace (King Jan III Sobieski Palace) C-3,  pl. Rynok 6, tel. 274 33 04. This is a unique monument of the Renaissance period, one of only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest structure on Rynok pl. Until the late 16th Century the area on which the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings, which were purchased by a Greek mer-  pl. 5. This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of Rococo architecture. Located at the height of St. George Hill, the cathedral dominates the surrounding area, but doesn‘t clash with the landscape. The main façade is set-off by a portal watched over by St. Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where celebrated figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. A park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely calming and it‘s hard to imagine that hard times  Sobor Sviatoho Yura (St. Geor ge Cathedral) G-3, Svyatoho Yura  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  22  WhAt to see once prevailed. Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established itself and resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major event to take place at St. George happened 2001. While visiting Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitan‘s Palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. The foundation of the Dominican Monastery dates back to the second half of the 13th Century when Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction of a small wooden church in gratitude for the generosity of the local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed by fire in 1408, a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in its place. The monastery, which could accommodate more than 100 monks, experienced its heyday beginning in 1612 when it become the central monastery of the Eastern European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were detected in the cathedral‘s arch. An emergency meeting was convened and all rescue options were exhausted. Demolition commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathedral, designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after. The bell tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet era the site was used as a regional archive and as a school for would be printing workers. After restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery opened as a museum dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. Religious services have also resumed. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.  WhAt to see The Dominican Cathedral D-3, Museina pl. 1. The cemetery‘s chapel, the Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a protected historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended mass here on June 26th, 2001. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 2Hr. Photography is prohibited. If you‘ve decided that you don‘t have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch, head to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.  23  C-3, Virmens’ka 7. The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by more than 100 nationali ties. Armenians began inhabiting the city in the 14th Centur y and quickl y established their own quarter complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370. This original building perished in the fire of 1527. The structure that stands today blends a few architectural styles including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the Turks during a siege. The 19th Century version of the bell tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard provides a tranquil setting for the decorative column and figure of St. Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are those of a former Armenian bank, established in the 17th Century, and Lviv‘s oldest pawnshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.  Virmens’kyi Sobor (The Armenian Cathedral)  The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery is one of the most inspiring si tes in Lvi v. The area around which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but the monaster y itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin envisioned. Constructed in the 17th Century, the cathedral‘s façade is protected by statues of the sacred order of Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of course, but don‘t be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The cathedral‘s magnificent interior is stirring. Originally located outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences. A section of the original protective wall remains and can be viewed from Pidval‘na vul.The impressive column that stands before the cathedral supports a sculpture of St. Jan and was constructed in 1736. Originally from a small settlement named Dukla, Jan rose to prominence in Lviv where he died in September 1484 at the age of 60. He was quickly canonized. The monument was established in memoriam to those on the Polish side who perished during the Khmel‘nyts‘kyi Uprising. In 1648 allied armies led by Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan Khmel‘nyts‘kyi invaded the Carpathian region in an attempt to seize control from the Poles. One of the campaign‘s goals was the complete eradication of Roman Catholic priests. Legend has it that during a purge St. Jan appeared from the heavens and protected the targeted group of priests. Much speculation exists concerning controversial events that have taken place within the monastery and its cells. One of the more famous cases concerns a letter missive (sanction of trade) addressed to Dracula. QOpen 10:00 - 11:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission is free.  The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery D-5, Soborna pl. 1-3.  pl. 1, tel. 274 40 47. Constructed in the early 17th Century on the grounds of what was a city cemetery; this quaint structure was originally intended for use as a crypt by the Boim family. George Boim, a Lviv merchant and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the project and his son, Paul-George, put the finishing touches on what would become a permanent feature in Lviv‘s stunning centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with fretwork that gives the impression that the entire structure has been turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and his wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halyts‘ka vul. The site has been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr.  Kaplytsia Boimiv (The Chapel of the Boim Family)C-4, Katedral’na  11. Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument of Taras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places in Lviv. Much like the Jesuits themselves, the structure is meant to be kept an enigma and random tourists will find it difficult to gain full access. The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th Century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome. The size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and 22.5 metres wide. Lviv‘s founding Jesuits are historically characterised as aggressive missionaries who quickly established a devout following. The sect was also known for its savvy in the area of property development. When they first settled in Lviv in the 16th Century they possessed absolutely no property. When Austria ordered the abolition of the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A section of the premises is currently occupied by the Lviv Scientific Library and is used as an archive. QExcursions starts every hour from 13:00 until 18:00 and can be ordered in Ravlyk Salon (Svobody prosp. 15, tel. 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 3Hr, students 2Hr. Underground excursion 9Hr, students 7Hr.  The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Or der B-4, Teatral’na  Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. 261 46 47. With  24 halls and more than 400 works from leading French, Italian, Austrian, German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian masters, this is the largest and arguably finest art museum in Ukraine. The collection of Polish art is unmatched outside of Poland. Pieces in this collection date from the 16th to 20th Centuries and include impressive works by leading 19th Century masters Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two world art masterpieces, is Georges de La Tour‘s “Payment of Dues” and Tiziano Vecellio‘s “Portrait of a Man”. The halls on the first floor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last entrance one hour before close. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr.  Lviv History Museum C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 74 33 04,  Museums Brewing Museum G-1, Kleparivs‘ka 18, tel. 294 80 65. In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europe‘s oldest breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewery‘s historic premises were specially renovated in order to host this unique museum. The collection contains a plethora of exceptional beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting hall: a titillating bonus for all fans of Lvivs‘ke (Львівське) beer. Excursions are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable for the rest. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr. Stavropihiis‘ka vul.), tel. 272 06 71. This museum shares space in the stunning Bandinelli Palace with the Museum of Historical Valuables. Explore the progression of glass from ancient times through the 20th Century. The exhibition contains archaeological relics from Kyiv, Terebovlia (one of Western Ukraine‘s oldest cities) and Galicia. From tiny vessels and bottles to bracelets, rings and mosaics, you‘re sure to be amazed by the versatility and beauty of this indispensable everyday material. The selection from the 16th-17th Centuries is particularly rich. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2Hr, students and senior citizen 1Hr.  www.lhm.lviv.ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv‘s oldest museums. Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the contemporary museum is spread out among four unique architectural monuments dating from the 16th-18th Centuries. The collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhibits that offer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those who inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The main branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the Kornjyakt Palace. During the 17th Century the palace served as a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III, and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown. The collection‘s highlights include ancient furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the Royal Chambers. The museum‘s second and third branches are also located on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The fourth branch is located at the Arsenal on Pidval’na vul. 5 and is dedicated to the region‘s history of weaponry. Excursions in English can be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits speak for themselves. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr  Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics C-1, Uzhgorods‘ka pl. 1, tel. 72 28 86. It‘s appropriate that this museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lviv‘s most ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was originally built in 1250, a time of profound transition and growth in the newly established capital of Galicia. Though it has been reconstructed numerous times, an antique feel prevails. The museum opened in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery. Artistic works, sacral relics and archaeological findings tell the enthralling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to the second half of the 14th Century, the collection‘s “Lviv Virgin and Child” is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.  Katedral’na pl. 1, tel. 272 56 82. This is a spectacular example of ancient Lviv‘s Gothic influence. Officially known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it‘s understandable why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in 1360, a relic was incorporated into the first foundation stone by King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was severely damaged in the fire of 1527. During its restoration in the 18th Century, Baroque forms replace those of the Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were incorporated at the end of the 19th Century. A cemetery once existed on and around what is now Katedral’na ploscha (Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated and further burials forbidden.  The Latin Cathedral C-4,  Glass Museum C-3, pl. Rynok 2 (entrance from  Johann Pinzel Museum D-5, Mytna pl. 2, tel. 75 69  66. This museum presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th Century Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainian‘s Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his work justifies this distinction. Little is known about the sculptor‘s life and controversy continues to hover around his identity, but doesn‘t that make his art all the more alluring?  Adama Mickiewicza Square  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  24  WhAt to see Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts B-4, Svobody prosp. 15 (pl. Rynok 10), tel. 272 78 08. Known for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts, this celebrated museum houses more than 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames into the lives of the region‘s past inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most valuable in Ukraine, but it‘s the vibrant assortment of embroidered national attire that really stands out and tends to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive and features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the 11th-13th Centuries. The main exposition is located within the former premise of a Galician-era bank. A second branch featuring fabrics, porcelain, Dutch wares and furniture from the Renaissance to the beginning of the 20th Century is located at Rynok pl. 10. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. of Torahs and Bibles and voluminous displays of Russian old prints. One of the museum‘s most valuable pieces is Ivan Fyodorov‘s Ostroh Bible. Fyodorov, an exiled Muscovite, established Ukraine‘s first printing press in Lviv. Works by numerous renowned theologians from Ukraine and abroad representing Catholicism, Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and other religions are on display in the library. An archaeological exhibition entitled “The Museum‘s Treasure” is located in the cellar. The cathedral also hosts concerts and organ recitals. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Rynok 24, tel. 72 08 74. The building that houses this branch of the Lviv History Museum is a fabulous example of 16th Century Renaissance architecture. The collection spotlights the history of Western Ukraine from ancient times to the Middle Ages and includes introductions to Lviv‘s foundation in the 13th Century by King Danylo Halytsky and the plight of western Ukrainians under the rule of controversial hetman Bohdan Khmel‘nyts‘kyi. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr. Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.  MAil & PhoNes Mobile phones There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Lviv - direct numbers (which do not differ from the Lviv fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 8 and the operator’s code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local provider’s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations.  25  Express mail DHL E-3, Chernivets’ka 9, tel. 242 64 00, fax 242 64 01, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. FedEx Naukova 5A, office 215, tel. 298 16 05, www. fedex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho 212, corp. 2, tel. 242 02 50, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. UPS Horodots’ka 205, tel. 238 43 55/297 07 48, www. ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A  The Ancient World and the Middle Ages C-4, pl.  Museum of Historical Valuables C-3, pl. Rynok 2,  tel. 72 06 71. This museum recently opened in 2005 following the restoration of the enthralling Bandinelli Palace. The current exhibitions constitute only part of what will be a much larger display and include a stunning display of gold and silver jewellery, pottery and miscellaneous civic articles. The building itself casts a shadow over the exhibit; to stroll the newly renovated palace halls is worth the meagre charge of admission. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.  Beeline I-5, Ivana Franka 78, tel. 244 44 10, wwwbeeline.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Kyivstar C-4, Valova 11, tel. 240 88 88/290 11 90, www.kyivstar.net. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00  The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” C-3,  National Museum B-3, Svobody prosp. 20, tel. 272  80 63. The National Museum was originally established in 1905 as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits have been collected. The museum‘s pride is also Ukraine‘s largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, which dates from the 12th-18th Centuries. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts and decorative carvings immortalize Ukraine‘s religious past. The museum‘s branch located at Drahomanova 42 houses a collection of Ukrainian modern art. Most notable are the paintings of renowned 20th Century Ukrainian masters. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr.  Drukars’ka 2, tel. 235 70 41. If you haven‘t noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. There‘s a drug store on practically every corner of every city! The foundation of a museum dedicated to the apothecary is very fitting. The Pharmacy Museum is located in a drugstore established in 1735 by a military pharmacist. The drugstore remains in operation and continues to mix its signature “Iron wine” used to treat anaemia. This distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukars‘ka and Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000 articles. The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical scales located in the opening hall. The second hall was originally used as a stockroom and currently displays pharmaceutical instruments from a variety of epochs. Within the third hall you‘ll discover an ancient laboratory that was reproduced on the basis of pictures and engravings. An apartment house belonging to one of Lviv‘s 16th Century petty bourgeois has been reconstructed in the internal court yard. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr.  Express mail rates Comparative rates for sending a package maximum 500g. Frankfurt London DHL 330Hr 330Hr TNT 353Hr 353Hr FedEx 240Hr 240Hr UPS 382Hr 382Hr weighing a New York 330Hr 403Hr 245Hr 400Hr  - 16:00. Closed Sun. Life B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. 272 69 46, www. life.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. MTS C-6, Tarasa Shevchenka prosp. 24, tel. 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. UTEL C-5, Halyts’ka pl. 7, tel. 8 800 500 11 88, www. utel.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.  Post Central Post Office A-5, Slovats’koho 1, tel. 261 53 21, www.ukrposhta.com. Q Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun.  Using a telephone Fixed line telephone Lviv has two different types of fixed line numbers – one type has six digits and the other has seven. To call a number inside Lviv just dial the number. To make a long-distance call, dial 8, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Lviv from another city or town, dial 8, wait for the tone, dial Lviv’s city code (032 for seven digit numbers, or 0322 for six digit numbers) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 10 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 047 Kirovohrad 052 Sevastopol 069 Chernihiv 046 Kyiv 044 Simferopol 065 Chernivtsi 037 Luhansk 064 Sumy 054 Dnipropetrovsk 056 Lutsk 033 Ternopil 035 Donetsk 062 Lviv 032 Uzhhorod 031 Ivano-Frankivsk 034 Mykolaiv 051 Vinnitsa 043 Kharkiv 057 Odesa 048 Zaporizhya 061 Kherson 055 Poltava 053 Zhytoymyr 041 Khmelnytsky 038 Rivne 036 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 8 if dialling from another Ukrainian city or town. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Austria 43 Greece 30 Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Canada 1 Israel 972 Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Denmark 45 Japan 81 Finland 358 Moldova 373 France 33 Netherlands 31 The above international country codes with 8 10 if dialling from inside Ukraine. Poland 48 Romania 40 Russia 7 Spain 34 Sweden 46 Turkey 90 Ukraine 380 UK 44 USA 1 should be prefixed  Postal rates Letters (<20g) 1,50Hr S 3,85Hr S 5,39Hr A S A Surface mail Air mail Within Ukraine Abroad Postcards 1,50Hr S 3,85Hr S 5,39Hr A  Religion History Museum D-3, Museina pl. 1, Domini-  can Cathedral, tel. 272 91 00. This distinctive museum displays exhibits representing Ukraine‘s national religions and is located with the Dominican Cathedral. The cathedral was originally constructed in the second half of the 13th Century by Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, in recognition of Lviv‘s gracious Dominican monks. The museum opened in 1972 and was dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. There are more than 50 thousand exhibits and include a magnificent assembly of icons from the 16th-19th Centuries, an impressive set  The Weapon Museum “Arsenal” D-4, Pidval‘na 5, tel. 72 19 01, 72 70 60. Establishing a weapons museum at the Arsenal was a no-brainer for city planners. It‘s a brisk walk up the hill, but the fascinating array of swords, daggers, spears, lances, fire-arms, armour and other military equipment make the climb well worth it. The collage of locally crafted weapons and armour really stirs the imagination. The museum has also acquired samples of ancient weapons from around the world. Chronologically organised by weapon type, you‘ll have no problems finding your own way around and your whacky uncle will definitely spring at the chance to be photographed in authentic knight‘s armour. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.  Public internet access Maximum C-5, Kniazia Romana 2, tel. 235-29-51. Also at Melnyka 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 4-8Hr per hour. - 20:00.  Pozytyv I-4, Zelena 14, tel. 294 90 51. QOpen 08:00  Chorna Medeya H-3, Petra Doroshenka 50, tel. 261 02 50. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6-9Hr per hour.  Roaming To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 38 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code.   The Lviv telephone code is +380 32 (or 322) Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  26  gettiNg AroUND Airline ticket offices Aerosvit Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. 29 80 24, lviv@aerosvit.com, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lunch time 13:00-14:00.  gettiNg AroUND International train schedule From Lviv City To Lviv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 15:23 08:21 14:36 05:47 ADLER (on odd days) (on even days) 17:05 22:32 (5) BAKU (2) 22:45 05:37 09:53 20:43 (1-7) BELGRADE (1-7) 07:30 10:31 01:08 09:09 (7) BERLIN (6) 21:13 22:55 10:26 05:08 (2,3,5,6,7) BRATISLAVA 14:10 10:31 (1,2,4,5,7) 21:20 11:17 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 18:43 10:31 23:35 19:30 (4,6) BUHAREST (1,6) 06:26 08:04 until September 5 23:35 19:30 (1,4,6) BUCHAREST (1,3,6) 06:26 08:04 from September 5 07:19 15:38 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 13:41 23:44 23:59 05:25 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 22:39 06:03 19:00 09:00 15:49 04:54 MINSK (on even days) (on odd days) 08:37 09:10 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 15:46 13:57 04:20 04:52 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 21:20 00:10 10:57 09:56 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 22:13 20:52 07:19 06:54 (1-7) PRAGUE (1-7) 21:09 23:43 07:19 09:26 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 19:24 23:44 23:35 06:00 (1,4,6) SOFIA (1,3,6) 19:30 08:04 23:12 05:25 (1-7) ST.-PETERSBURG 12:45 15:19 (1-7) 07:19 20:45 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 07:15 23:44 23:59 10:26 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 17:35 06:03 07:19 20:25 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 08:35 23:44 10:26 06:58 (2,3,5,6,7) VIENNA 12:28 10:31 (1,2,4,5,7) 21:20 07:16 (7) VENICE (3) 21:20 10:31  27  Domestic flight schedule From Lviv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 20:20 1 – – – 5 – – 10:30 Arr. 11:35 19:15 21:30 12:10 City KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) SIMFEROPOL (W) To Lviv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 08:00 1 – – – 5 – – 08:15 Arr. 09:20 15:20 09:05 10:00  Austrian Airlines Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel./fax 297 60 90, tel. 297 62 91, www.aua. com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.  Carpatair Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport,  tel. 297 62 66/229 81 57, lviv@carpatair.com, www. carpatair.com. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Lunch break 12:00 - 13:00.  LOT Polish Airlines A-4, Sichovych Striltsiv 5, tel. 297  International flight schedule From Lviv Days Dep. – – – – – 6 – 08:30 – – – 4 – – – 15:15 1 – – – 5 – – 16:50 – 2 – – 5 – – 16:00 – – – 4 – – 7 15:40 1 – – 4 – – – 13:00 1 – – – – – – 10:40 – – – – – – 7 16:30 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 13:30 1 2 – 4 5 – – 07:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:15 – – – – – – 7 09:10 – – – – – 6 – 06:20 – 2 – – 5 – – 08:10 – – – – 5 – – 21:00 1 2 3 – 5 6 – 06:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 1 – 3 – 5 – – 18:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 Arr. 11:15 18:15 18:50 17:00 17:35 15:00 14:45 18:55 16:20 09:05 15:10 11:20 08:55 10:30 00:15 08:00 17:45 19:45 16:00 City ATHENS (7D) BARCELONA (PS) until September 10 DORTMUND (W) FRANKFURT (PS) ISTANBUL (TK) ISTANBUL (7W) MADRID (PS) MILAN (PS) MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT) MOSCOW Domodedovo (7W) MUNICH (LH) NAPLES (PS) NAPLES (VV) until September 4 ROME (PS) TEL AVIV (VV) until September 4 TIMISOARA (V3) VIENNA (OS) WARSAW (LO) WARSAW (LO) To Lviv Days Dep. – – – – – 6 – 12:20 – – – 4 – – – 19:20 1 – – – 5 – – 14:25 – 2 – – 5 – – 12:10 – – – 4 – – 7 12:35 1 – – 4 – – – 16:00 1 – – – – – – 15:50 – – – – – – 7 20:00 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 09:55 1 2 – 4 5 – – 09:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:25 – – – – – – 7 16:45 – – – – 5 – – 16:45 – 2 – – 5 – – 11:30 – – – – – 6 – 01:15 1 2 3 – 5 6 – 15:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:20 1 – 3 – 5 – – 16:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:25 Arr. 15:10 22:15 16:20 14:10 14:40 18:00 19:20 22:25 12:40 11:50 12:15 19:00 19:00 13:45 04:55 16:45 14:30 17:35 13:45  11 55/297 50 57, www.lot.com. Also at Lviv International Airport (open 11:30 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30), tel. 69 29 85. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  Ukraine International Airlines vul. Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. 98 69 77, sale@ avia.lviv.ua, www.flyuia.com.  Airports Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. 229 81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel. 229 83 19.  Car rental Avis Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. 220 18 38, lviv@avis.com.ua, www.avis.com.ua. Also at Pidstryhacha 6, tel. 297 05 10. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. AUL  Europcar Lypyns‘koho 36, tel. 294 89 94, lviv@auto-  drive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua. Also at Lviv International Airport, tel. 229 87 87. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A  Hertz Rent a Car Lubyns‘ka 13B, tel. 297 00 52, lviv@ hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PAL  Airline Codes: LO– LOT Polish Airlines, LH – Lufthansa Airlines, OS– Austrian Airlines, PS– Ukrainian International Airlines, 7W – Wind Rose, TK – Turkish Airlines, UT– UTair, V3– Carpatair, VV – AeroSvit, W – Wizz Air.  Domestic train schedule From Lviv City To Lviv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 20:10 13:04 (1-7) CHERNIHIV (1-7) 20:52 10:13 16:45 23:00 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 07:35 12:59 10:26 15:47 (1-7) CHOP (1-7) 20:26 02:23 07:00 12:45 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 13:30 08:20 (1-7) 16:23 16:50 13:49 14:33 DONETSK (on even days) (on odd days) 04:17 07:02 (1-7) IVANO-FRANKIVSK 18:15 21:05 (1-7) 17:05 11:45 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 19:11 14:45 14:39 10:15 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 16:33 12:08 06:35 13:00 (1-7, ex 2) KYIV (2-7) 17:05 23:29 22:47 07:26 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 22:15 06:33 20:10 06:13 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 08:56 17:58 19:27 10:34 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 16:04 06:43 08:37 18:27 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 18:46 04:24 01:08 04:14 (1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 17:47 21:08 19:34 07:50 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 19:00 07:10 09:36 12:20 (ex. 3) RIVNE (ex. 3) 09:44 09:50 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 13:12 14:09 14:52 21:02 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 04:49 11:40 21:20 04:03 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 01:35 10:31 04:50 11:19 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 15:54 23:00 15:33 15:47 (1-7) ZAPORIZHZHIA (1-7) 11:50 11:52  Sixt rent a car Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. 237 18 17, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AL  Index Alpaca 14 Amadeus 12 Arsenal 20 Arsenal Salon 28 Art-11 8 Assumption Church 21 Atmosphera 12 Austrian Airlines 26 Avis 26 Beeline 25 Beer Garden 19 Bistro B-317 14 Brewing Museum 23 British Council 8 Bukhara 16 Cabinet 17 Café 1 17 Carpatair 26 Celentano 14 Central Post Office 25 Central Square Hostel 11 Chaos 8 Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) 20 Chorna Medeya 25 Citadel Inn 9 City Hall 20 Cukiernia 17 Cult Club 19 Darvin 12 DeMandjaro 14 DHL 25 Dnister 10 Double Coffee 17 Dublin 19 Dzyga 8 Eney 10 Erstebank 30 Eurohotel 10 Europcar 26 Europe 12 Fashion Club 12 FedEx 25 First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth 8 Frantsishka 17 Freska 17 Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform 8 Gasova Lyampa 17 George 11 Gerdan 8 Glass Museum 23 Goethe-Institute 8 Grand Hotel 9 Grand Hotel Restaurant 12 Hertz Rent a Car 26 Hit-Café 14 Hors 15 Italian Yard 20 Italiys'kyi Dvoryk 17 Johann Pinzel Museum 23 Kamianyi Lev 20 Kartopliana Khata 14 Kentavr 15 Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa 15 Kinopalace 8 Kinopalace Kopernyk 8 Kornjakt Palace (King Jan III Sobieski Palace) 20 Korzo Pub 19 Kryjivka 18 Kumpel 12 Kupol 13 Kyiv 8 Kyivstar 25 Leopolis 9 Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre 8 Life 25 LOT Polish Airlines 26 Lviv 8, 11 Lviv Art Gallery 8, 23 Lviv History Museum 23 Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 26 Lviv International Airport 26 Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics 23 Lviv Palace fo Arts 8 Lviv Regional Dall Theatre 8 Lviv State Palace 8 Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre 8 Masoch Café 18 Maximum 25 Metro 19 MTS 25 Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts 24 Museum of Historical Valuables 24 Natalia 18 10 National Museum 24 New York Street Pizza 15 NTSh 28 Ofit Service 20 Opera Panorama Piano Bar Pid Klepsydroyu Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu Piligrim Ploscha Rynok (Market Square) Porokhova Vezha Pory roku Pozytyv Praga Praga Café Praga Pub Puzata Khata Religion History Museum Restoratsiaya na Valoviy Retro Hostel Shevchenko Rumba Bar Rus'ka Street Sixt rent a car Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Ballet Theatre Sonata Sophia Grand Club Split Club Lviv St. George Cathedral Staryi Krakiv Steak House Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal Sushi Kappo-IN SushiYA Svit Kavy Svitlytsia Leva Swiss Hotel 9 15 19 18 18 14 20 21 16 8 25 12 18 19 14 24 13 11 19 21 26 8 18 19 19 21 11 14 26 13 14 18 13 10 The Ancient World and the Middle Ages 24 The Armenian Cathedral 22 The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery 22 The Book House 28 The Chapel of the Boim Family 22 The Dominican Cathedral 22 The Kosmonaut 11 The Latin Cathedral 22 The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” 24 The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order 23 The Weapon Museum “Arsenal” 24 TNT 25 U Burgera 11 Ukraine International Airlines 26 UPS 25 UTEL 25 Valente 18 Valentino 13 Veronica 16 Vienna 11 Vienna Coffe House 13 Vintage Boutique Hotel 10 Virmenka 18 Voskresinnya Theatre 8 Wseswit 20 Yapi 14 Yapona Hata 14 Zamok Leva 10 Zolotyi Vepr 18  Long-distance Buses Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal vul. Stryis’ka 109, tel. 294 98 17. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.  Trains Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. 748 20 68.  Taxis In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. Express tel. 221 65 65 Radio Taxi tel. 240 44 55 Vashe Taxi tel. 243 82 43 Virazh tel. 233 81 14  Lviv In Your Pocket  lviv.inyourpocket.com  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009  28  shoPPiNg Antiques Antykvar B-3, Lesi Ukrainky 8, tel. 74 32 34. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. 10:00 - 20:00.  lifestYle DireCtorY Secunda B-4, Petra Doroshenka 1, tel. 297 19 87. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A S.T. Dupont Paris A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. 272 06 05.  29  24-hour pharmacies Apteka #12 G-3, Ivana Ohiyenka 5, tel. 274 85 35. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Apteka #2 A-3, Tyktora 3, tel. 272 50 48. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. - 24:00.  Fitness clubs Ellada F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. 298 16 62. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.  Arsenal Salon D-4, Pidval’na 5, tel. 275 30 55. QOpen Art Vernisazh B-2, Teatral’na 23A, tel. 72 00 54. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Gothic Hall C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. 272 60 91. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.  Tsikava Kramnychka A-6, Stefanyka 15, tel. 261 00 01. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.  Eurosport I-4, Yevgena Petrushevycha 1, tel. 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.  Jewellery Amphora C-5, Kniazia Romana 6, tel. 225 52 67. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Diamant B-4, Katedral’na pl. 8, tel. 272 45 22. Firmovyi Magazyn I-4, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. 275 08 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.  D.S. C-4, Halyts’ka 19, tel. 274 20 06. QOpen 00:00 Tico C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. 272 50 87. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.  Military Collectioner C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 8, tel. 235 45 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Stara Kramnychka C-3, Virmens’ka 18, tel. 297 51 57. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.  Private clinics Intersono E-5, Antonovycha 102, tel. 237 69 92, www. intersono.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.  Beauty salons Aphrodita J-3, Lychakivs’ka 45, tel. 275 50 49. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.  Books Globus C-5, Halyts’ka pl. 12, tel. 274 01 77. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. 09:00 - 18:00.  Kleopatra B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 28/272 09 80. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.  Elite D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 4, tel. 275 68 92. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.  Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre K-3, Pekarska 69B, tel. 275 49 90. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Medical F-3, Horodots’ka 85/227, tel. 240 37 67, www.medikal.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.  Lel C-3, Drukars’ka 4, tel. 297 56 36. QOpen 09:00  NTSh C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6, tel. 279 85 80. QOpen The Book House B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 8, tel. 274 41 64. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Ukrains’ka Knyharnia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 8, tel. 272 16 30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.  Kids Antoshka B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 5, tel. 298 60 67. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Orchestra J-4, Dorosha 10, tel. 255 00 99. Pelikan Horodots’ka 168, tel. 244 19 19.  Victoria C-3, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 3/1A, tel. 297 56 19. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.  Prostir Medical Centre A-3, Svobody prosp. 33, tel. 242 15 90, www.prostir.lviv.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 19:0, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.  Billiard & Bowling Berkli K-5, Kerchens’ka 15A, tel. 276 14 69. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.  K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs’koho 27/2, tel. 237 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.  Fashion Adidas B-5, Chaikovs’koho 5, tel. 297 91 61. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A  Perfume & Beauty Brocard A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. 72 28 55. Also at Svobody prosp. 35, tel. 260 13 57. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. A  Swimming pools Aquapark Kniagyni Olhy 114, tel. 263 60 55. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr.  Billiard Centre G-1, Kleparivs’ka 30, tel. 233 32 94. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 30-40Hr. VIP hall - 60Hr. Classic E-4, Turgeneva 80, tel. 238 13 98. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. 45Hr per hour. - 24:00. 90-165Hr. TA  Dynamo G-4, Vitovs’koho 53, tel. 238 64 16. Q 06:00 - 08:15, 13:30 - 15:00, 19:15 - 21:30. 25Hr per hour.  Arber A-1, Viacheslava Chernovola prosp. 9, tel. 297 53 27, www.arber.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Colin’s C-4, Katedral’na pl. 3, tel. 235 67 88. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A 11:00 - 20:00. A  Cosmo A-3, Svobody prosp. 47, tel. 272 85 73. Also at B5, Voronoho 2, tel. 272 66 83. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Eden B-3, Korniakta 1, tel. 274 10 69. QOpen 10:30 - 20:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A  Mi 100 Naukova 7, tel. 244 71 96. QOpen 00:00 Ostrava Bowling E-5, Yevgena Konoval’tsya 103, tel. 295 38 86. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60-120Hr per hour.  Eurosport I-4, Yevgena Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 70Hr per hour. Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour. Children - 40Hr.  Motor B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. 272 35 45. QOpen Reserved A-2, Shpytal’na 1, tel. 294 91 83. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A  Legran B-5, Kopernyka 7/1, tel. 261 61 70. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A  United Colors of Beneton A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 9, tel. 297 51 22. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A  Photography Amator B-4, Svobody prosp. 1/3, tel. 272 78 29. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A Baransky Photostudio C-5, Kniazia Romana 12/14, tel. 276 98 40. Also at I-4, Zelena 2. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A  Dentists ABM-Vitadent I-4, Skel’na 1/9, tel. 260 23 57. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.  Tennis Dynamo Yaneva 10, tel. 263 24 20. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L  Flowers Bohemia Fleur A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. 272 07 91. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Dimos Flowers B-3, Lesi Ukrainky 19, tel. 297 52 45, www.dimos-flowers.com/en. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.  Lviv Regional State Dental Clinic K-3, Pekarska 69A, tel. 275 55 61. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Ortadent Assistance G-3, Zamknena 6, tel. 297 07 47. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs’koho 27/2, tel. 237 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.  Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. 60Hr per hour. AL  Ukraina F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. 237 73 32. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L  Europhoto A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 5, tel. 272 85 45. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A  Translators & Language courses International House K-5, Zelena 109, tel. 225 51 90, www.ihlviv.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Language Fast D-6, Levyts’koho 3/1, tel. 275 16 19. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages I-4, Ivana Franka 33, office 4, tel. 243 69 16, cim-lider@ukr.net, www. lider.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  Flower Waltz I-5, Oleksandra Arkhypenka 28, tel. 276 83 30, www.flowers-waltz.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A  Photonova A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. 272 70 08. Also at B-3, Shevs‘ka 1, tel. 297 56 57. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A  Dry cleaners Eurochystka A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 17. Also at I-4, Ivana Franka 61, tel. 276 27 79. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.  Gifts & Souvenirs Alfa Omega H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 18, tel. 272 66 33.  Shopping Malls Magnus A-2, Shpytal’na 1, tel. 244 42 65, www.magnus-store.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Na Rynku C-3, pl. Rynok 32, tel. 272 09 30. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A 10:00: - 20:00. AL  Chysto A-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. 298 94 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.  Arta C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 25, tel. 279 74 96. Bila Skelia I-4, Skel’na 1, tel. 275 79 80. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.  Skrynya E-3, Horodots’ka 179, tel. 298 94 50. QOpen lviv.inyourpocket.com  €1 = 10.61Hr; US$1 = 7.62Hr (22 June 2009 official rates) lviv.inyourpocket.com  Runa Agency of Foreign Languages B-5, Chaikovskogo 12/12, tel. 298 69 69, www.runa.org.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.  Lviv In Your Pocket  July - September 2009  30  BUsiNess DireCtorY Accountants & Consulting European Business Association G-4, Stepana Bandery 6, office 3, tel. 261 29 28, fax 261 22 68, lviv@ eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua.  A 1  B St. Nicholas Church  C  D OLD TOWN SCALE 1:8000  Kazakhstan G-2, Yakova Rapoporta 6, tel. 25 57 67. Latvia Viacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. 40 33 70/94 82 20, fax 94 82 23.  J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. 97  Lithuania H-4, Kotsubyns’koho 13/1, tel. 98 96 50. Mexico D-6, Akademika Bohomol’tsya 15, tel. 75 95 95, fax 25 77 56. 19 06/97 14 49. 62. Ancient Lviv The Church of St. John the Baptist Memorials  Park Vysokyi Zamok  05 97, fax 97 05 95, j-l@j-l.com.ua, www.j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  PricewaterhouseCoopers E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel.  Netherlands G-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. 97 The Church of Benedictines Lviv  242 53 05, pwc.ukraine@ua.pwc.com, www.pwc. com/ua.  Poland I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. 97 08 61/97 08 Russia K-4, Levyts’koho 95, tel. 75 24 63/75 05 77.  Banks Erstebank B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. 298 90 86, www. erstebank.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prominvestbank B-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 2, tel. 272 79 75, www.pib.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.  2 The Church of Our Lady of the Snow The Drama Theatre The Opera House Natalia 18 Puppets  Officials City Council C-4, pl. Rynok 1, tel. 254 60 06, fax 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv.ua.  Raiffeisen Bank Aval A-5, Kopernyka 14, tel. 297 06 75, www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.  Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-4, Volodymyra Vyn-  nychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. 235 64 78/98 62 55, www.mfa.gov.ua/mfa/en.  Kyiv Opera  The Church of the Trans guration  Ukreximbank B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 4, tel. 297 01 77, www.eximb.com/eng. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Ukrsotsbank B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 10, tel. 244 05 01/244 05 58, www.usb.com.ua/en. Evening cashier‘s office until 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  Learning Ukrainian The following is a list of some of the most common words and phrases a person is likely to need. Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) Yes Так (tak) No Ні (ni) Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia) Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Days of the week Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Tuesday Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) Numbers 1 один 2 два 3 три 4 чотири 5 п’ять 6 шість (o-DYN) (dva) (try) (cho-TY-ry) (pyat’) (shist’) 7 8 9 10 100 1000 сім вісім дев’ять десять сто тисяча (sim) (VI-sim) (DE-vyat’) (DE-syat’) (sto) (TY-sya-cha)  3 Les’ Kurbas  Kinopalats National Natural History  The Armenian Cathedral The Dominican Cathedral  Pharmacy Central Square  Religion History  The Church of Archangel Mikhail  Laweyrs Arzinger G-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. 242 96 96, mail@arzinger.ua, www.arzinger.ua. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  Leopolis Lviv History The Church of the Jesuit Order Ethnography and Art Crafts City Hall Ancient Lviv History The Assumption Church  Children and Youth  Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. 272 16 24. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Soldatenko, Lukashyk & partners C-3, Virmens’ka 18/18, tel. 272 26 42, www.slp.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.  4  Kosmonaut  GE Vienna Hotel Grand Hotel Ne Zhurys’ The Latin Cathedral  Vintage  The Weapon Museum “Arsenal”  Foreign representations Austria C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. 61 20 14. Belarus E-3, Gors’koii 2, tel. 37 27 30/99 24 60, fax 99 24 60.  The Bernardine Monastery  DE George  Johann Pinzel  Brazil E-2, Cholovs’koho 2, tel. 97 11 51/97 65 08, fax 97 11 77.  5 Lviv Art Gallery  Kopernyk  Canada D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. 97 17 72, fax 97 81 54. 32, fax 76 94 84. 02, fax 76 28 40. fax 64 15 23.  Swiss Philharmonic Kyiv Shevchenko  Georgia B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. 97 40 98/59 32 Germany D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. 75 71 Hungary Kniagyni Olhy 116, tel. 64 58 22/64 56 22, Italy C-6, Johara Dudayeva 2, tel. 72 27 56. Lviv In Your Pocket  CA  MX  IT The Scienti c Library (Ossolineum)  6  AT  lviv.inyourpocket.com  © ДНВП "Картографія", 2009 © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2009  E Yanivs’ke Cemestry  F  G  H  The St. Paraskeva Pyatnytsya Church  I  J  K SCALE 1:16 000  LVIV CENTRE  1 Brewing  St. Onuphrius Church  LEGEND: Park Vysokyi Zamok  St. Nicholas Church  . The Church of St. John the Baptist  409,5 Vysokyi Zamok Mount  main street other street monument Orthodox church Catholic church Synagogue museum theatre architectural monuments fountain cinema  consulate hotel youth hostel post office & internet hospital traine station bus station parking stadion park forest cemestry  The Church of Benedictines KZ  The Church of Our Lady of the Snow  2  Prestige  The Drama Theatre The Opera House The Armenian Cathedral The Church of the Jesuit Order BR City Hall  Park Znesinnya The Dominican Cathedral  The Church of the Discalced Carmelite Nuns  The Assumption Church GE  The Latin Cathedral  The Bernardine Monastery Circus  3  St. George Cathedral  DE  Medicine History of Halychyna  Oleksy Novakivs’koho  Oleny Kul’chyts’koi Dnister  Ivan Franko Park  Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi  Rusalky Dnisrovoi  The Wedding Palace  CA  MX  BY  IT  House of Organ and Chamber Music  The Scienti c Library (Ossolineum)  AT  Lviv Railway History  Eurohotel Citadel Inn Eney  4 e Citadel Park Lviv-Backpackers  National Museum  Lychakivs’ke Cemestry  LT  RU  U Burgera NL  Students’kyi Park  Zamok Leva  e Central Park  S. Ludkevych Memorial Museum  5 PL  Park Piskovi Ozera  Stryis’kyi Park  © ДНВП "Картографія", 2009 р. © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2009 р.  street register Krakivs’ka B-2/3, C-3, I-2 Krekhivs’ka G/H-1 Kremenets’ka E-5 Kropyvnyts’koi pl. F-3 Kryva Lypa prov. A-4, H-3 Kubiyovycha I-5 Kushevycha H-1 Kvitky-Osnovianenka F-2 Kvitneva F-5 Kyivs’ka F-4 Kyryla i Mefodiia H/I-4 Lazneva A-2, H-2 Lemkivs’ka H-1 Leontovycha G-2 Lesi Ukrainky B/D-3, I-2 A-3/4, H-2 Lesia Kurbasa Levandivs’ka E-1 Levyts’koho D-6, I/K-4 Liainberha H-2 Lips’ka E-4 Lisna K-2/3 Litnia H-5 Lobachevs’koho I-1 Lukasha G-5 Luts’koho E-1/2 L’va Tolstoho I/J-5 Lychakivs’ka I/K-3 Lypneva pl. E-4 Lysenka D-3, I/K-2 Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3 Lyzhvjiars’ka H-5 M. Slobodivny J-4 Magazynova F-2 Maiera Balabana A-2, H-2 Maksyma Kryvonosa D-2, I/J-2 Maksyma Zalizniaka E-4 Mala J/K-3 Malaniuka pl. B-5, H-3 Marka Vovchka F-2/3 Markiyana Shashkevycha pl. G-4 Martovycha B/C-6, I-4 Mateika G-3 Mechnikova K-3/4 Medova A/B-1, H-1 Mel’nyka E/F-4 Mendeleeva H/I-4 Mentsyns’koho H-2 Meretyna Bernarda F-3 Metrolohichna F-5 Mickiewicza B-5, I-3 Modesta Sosenka F-1 Morozenka F-2 Morshyns’ka F-5 Muliars’ka A/B-1, H-2 Muravy G/H-3 Museina pl. C-3, I-2 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho I-4 Mykhaila Verbyts’koho G-4 Mykhaila Yatskoho F-1 Mykhal’chuka A-3, H-2 Myklukho-Maklaia J-2 Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3 Mykoly Zerova E-4 Mytna pl. D-5, I-3 Mytropolyta Andriya F-3 Mytropolyta Angelovycha F-3 Mytropolyta Lepkivs’koho K-2 Nalyvaika A-3, H-2 Nasypna C-2, I-2 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-4 Nekrasova J/K-3 Nizhyns’ka K-3 Novakivs’koho G-3 Novyi Svit F/G-4 Nyz’kyi Zamok B-3, H-2 Odes’ka F-3 Ohirkova I-1 Oleksandra Arkhypenka I-4/5 Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4 Oleksandra Konys’koho I/J-4 Oleksandra Olesia K-5 Oleksy Dovbusha J-2 Oleny Pchilky I-4 Oleny Stepanivny E/F-2 Oleny Telihy K-5 Olhy Basarab J-5 Ol’zhycha K-5 Opil’s’koho F-4 Opryshkivs’ka J-1 Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho C-5, I-3 Ostrohrads’kyh G-5 Ostrozhs’koho K-3 Ozarkevycha F/G-3 Ozheshko E-5 Paliia I-4 Panchyshna K-5 Panteleymona Kulisha A-1/2, H-1/2 Paparivka I/J-1 Parfanovychiv J-3 Parkova I-5 Pasternaka E-4 Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3 J-4 Pavlyka Pekars’ka D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4 Peremys’ka E-5 Pereyaslavs’ka J-5 Perova F-3 Petra Doroshenka A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3 Pid Dubom H-1 Pidval’na D-3/4, I-2/3 Pidmurna B-2, H-2 Pidzamche I-1 Pisha C-2, I-2 Piskova K-3 Pochaivs’ka K-1 Pogulianka K-5 Pokhyla G-5 Polischuka E-4 Politekhnichna G-4 Popovycha B-6, H/I-4 Povstans’ka E-5 Profesors’ka G-3/4 Prosvity D-4, I-3, J-2 Pryrodna F-5 Pyl’nykars’ka B-1, C-2, I-2 Repina K-3 Rizni pl. A-2, H-2 Rodyny Krushel’nyts’kyh J/K-5 Romanchuka J-4 Rudans’koho B/C-5, I-3 Rus’ka C/D-4, I-2/3 Rusovyh F-4 Rybna C-2, I-2 Ryleieva G-3 Ryl’s’koho J-4 Rymlianyna D-5, I-3 Rynok pl. C-3/4, I-2/3 S. Ludkevycha I-5 Sadovs’koho K-3 Saksahans’koho C-6, I-4 Samiylenka I/J-4 Sarjiana E-4 Schekavyts’ka E-2 Schepkina G-3 Sechenova F-3 Sels’kyh E-4/5 Serbs’ka C-4, I-3 Severy I-5 Sheptyts’kyh F-3 Shevchenka E-1, F/G2 Shevchenka prosp. C-5/6, I-3/4 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Shkil’na I-1 Sholom-Aleikhema H-2 Shopena H-2 Shota Rustavelli I-4/5 Shpytal’na H-2 Shukhevycha C/D-6, I-3 Shymzeriv K-4 Sians’ka B-2, H-2 Sichovykh Stril’tsiv A-4, H-3 Simsotrichchia H-1 Skel’na I-4 Skliana F-1/2 Skovorody K-3 Slovats’koho A-5, H-3 Smal’-Stots’koho E-4 Smerekova B/C-1, I-1 Smol’s’koho J-3 Snopkivs’ka I-5 Soborna pl. D-5, I-3 Solodova K-3 Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi G/H-3 Sorokhteya E-1 Stara B-2, H-2 Staroyevreis’ka C/D-4, I-3 Stavropihiys’ka C-3, I-2 Staroznesens’ka K-1 Staryi Rynok pl. B-2, I-2 Staryts’koho F-4 Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4 Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4 Stets’ka C-6, I-4 Storozhenka E-2 Strimka I-1 Stryis’ka G/I-5 Students’ka J/K-5 Sviatoho Yura pl. G-3 Svobody prosp. H-2/3 Sydora Holubovycha F-3 H-2 Tamans’ka Tatars’ka H/I-1 Teatral’na B-2/4, H-2, I-3 Tekhnichna G-3 Tershakivtsiv J-3/4 Teslenka H-1 Tobilevycha F-4 Tomashivs’koho B-6, H-3 Torhova pl. A-2, H-2 Tsekhova H-1 Tugan-Baranovs’koho J-3/4 Turets’ka H-5 Turgeneva E/F-4 Turians’koho F-1 Tutunnykiv I-5 Tykha B-5, H-3 Tyktora A-3, H-2 Ulasa Samchuka I-5 Universytets’ka H-3 Ustyianovycha G-3 Uzhhorods’ka C/D-1, I-2 Vagova A-2, H-2 Valova C/D-4, I-3 Vasylevycha J-4 Vasylkivs’koho E-4 Venetsianova H-4 Verkhats’koho J-3 Vernyhory F-2/3 Vesela B-1, H-1/2 Veteraniv G-1 Viacheslava Chornovola prosp. A-1/2, H-1/2 Vicheva C-2, I-2 Vicheva pl. B-3, H-2 Virmens’ka B/C-3, H/I-2 Vodohinna J-5 Volodymyra Antonovycha E-4/5, F-4 Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5 Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3 Volodymyra Vynnychenka D-2/5, I-2/3 Voloschaka H/I-5 Voloshyna C-6, I-3/4 Volos’ka I-5 Vuz’ka J-3 Viytovycha F-3 Vyshens’koho K-3 Vyshyvanoho pl. I-5 Vysokyi Zamok D-1, I/J-2 Yakova Rappoporta G-2 Yapons’ka F-4 Yaroslava Mudroho F-2/3 Yaroslava Prstaka G-2 Yasna E-2 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Yeroshenka E/F-1 Yeroshenka G-1 Yevgena Konoval’tsya E-4/5, F-4 Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4 Zakharievycha F-4 Zaklyns’kyh K-1 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Zamarstynivs’ka B-1, H-1 Zamknena G-3 Zamkova C/D-1, D-2, I-1 Zan’kovets’koi J-3 Zaryts’kyh H/I-5 Zdorovjia F-4 Zelena I/J-4, J/K-5 Zernova A-2, H-2 Zhovkivs’ka I-1 Zhukovs’koho F-4 Zhyzhky B-2/3, H/I-2 Zolota F-1, G-2 Zvenyhorods’ka pl. B-2, I-2  35  Slovians'k Lozova Kramators'k Stakhanov Luhans'k Pavlohrad Kostyantynivka Alchevs'k Horlivka Krasnyi Dnipropetrovs'k Luch Yenakiieve Shakhty Donets'k Makiyivka  Novocherkassk  °  Rostov�  na�Donu  50  FEDERATION  45  Krasnodar Novorossiysk  °  RUSSIAN  E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Akademika Andriya Sakharova F-5, G-4/5 Akademika Bohomol’tsia D-5/6, I-3 Akademika Filatova J-3 Akademika Hnatiuka A-3/4, H-2/3 Akademika Kravchuka J-3 Akademika Krypiakevycha K-3 Akademika Liul’ky A-1, H-1 Akademika Pavlova J-4 Akademika Romana Kuchera G-2 Akademika Serhiya Yefremova E-5, F-4 Albans’ka K-5 Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5 Aral’s’ka K-5 Arkhitektors’ka G-3/4 Azovs’ka K-5 Bankivs’ka A-4, B-4/5, H-3 Barvins’kyh J-2 Baturyns’ka G-1 Bazarna G-1/2 Beryndy B/C-4, H/I-3 Bibliotechna G-3/4 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2 I-2/3 Bohdana Lepkoho Boi-Zelens’koho G-5 Bolhars’ka H-5 Borysa Romanyts’koho G-4 Brativ Mikhnovs’kyh F-2/3 Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3 Brativ Tymoshenkiv G-4 Briulova G-4 Brovarna G-2 Cathedral’na pl. B/C-4, I-3 Chaikovs’koho A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3 Chekhova J-3 Chereshneva I-4 Chernihivs’ka J-3 Chernivets’ka E-3 Chervona F-5 Cholovs’koho E-2 Danyla Halyts’koho pl. C-2, I-2 Dekarta F-3 Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4 Det’ka B-1/2, H-1 Dmytra Bortnians’koho E/F-2 Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2 Dmytra Dontsova J-3 Dmytra Huni F-1 Dmytra Vitovs’koho G/H-4, H/I-5 Dniprovs’ka J-4/5 Dolyns’koho H/I-1 Dorosha J-4 Drahomanova C-6, H/I-4 Drohobycha A-4/5, H-3 Drukars’ka C-3, I-2 Dvortsova pl. E-3 Dzherel’na H-1/2 Dzherel’na H-1 Dzyndry H-5 Fed’kovycha E-3/4 Ferentza Lizta B-5, H-3 Furmans’ka A-3, H-2 Galileia K-4 Gazova A-1, H-1 Glynky G-5 Gogolia G-3 Gors’koii E-3/4 Grunval’ds’ka F-4 Haidamats’ka I-1 Halyts’ka C-4, I-3 Halyts’ka pl. C-4, I-3 Hanny Barvinok E/F-5 Hartmana Vitvera J-3 Havryshkevycha C-3, I-2 Henerala Chuprynky E/F-5, F/G-4 Henerala Hrekova G-1 Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2 Henerala Hrytsaia J/K-5 Henerala Tarnavs’koho J-4/5, I-5 Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2 Henerala Zasiad’ka G-5 Hertsena C-6, I-4 Hlibova H-4 Hlyboka F/G-4 Holovats’koho F-3 Hopsova E-5 Horodots’ka A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2 Horodyns’kyh E-5 Hrabovs’koho G/H-4 H-2 Hrebinky Hrets’ka H-5 Hryhorovycha B-6, I-3/4 Hutsul’s’ka J-2 Hvardiys’ka G-4/5 Illariona Sventsits’koho I-5 Ivana Bohuna G-4 Ivana Fedorova C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3 Ivana Franka D-5/6, I-3/4 Ivana Franka pl. I-5 Ivana Gonty B/C-2, I-2 Ivana Gorbachevs’koho F-5 Ivana Karpyntsia G-5 Ivana Levyns’koho F-4 Ivana Ohiyenka G-2/3 Ivana Pidkovy pl. B-4, H-3 Ivana Rutkovycha I-5 Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2 Johara Dudaieva B/C-6, H/I-3 Josypa Slipoho J-4/5 Kalicha Hora A/B-6, H-4 Kameniariv G-3 Karaims’ka I-1 Karmaluka K-3 Karpats’ka J-4/5 Karpins’koho F-4, G-3 Kastelivka F-5, G-4 Katliars’ka H-2 Kerchens’ka K-5 Kharkivs’ka K-2/3 Khimichna H-1 Kholodnoho K-5 Khorvats’ka G-2 Khotyns’ka F-3 Khudozhnia E-4 Kleparivs’ka G-1/2 Klionovycha D-6, I-3 Kniahyni Ol’hy F-5 Kniazha J-2 Kniazia Leva C-2, I-2 Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho A/B-2, H-2 Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3 Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. B-2, H-2 Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2 Kobylians’koi I-4 Kokorudza F-4 Kol’bera G-4 Kolessy H-4 Koliivschyny pl. D-4, I-3 Komarova E/F-2 Komaryntsia G-5 Konopnyts’koi I-4 Konotops’ka E-5 Kooperatyvna F-2/3 Kopernyka A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3 Korduby J/K-1 Korniakta B-3, H/I-2 Koroliova J-5 Korotka E/F-3 Kortumivka G-2 Kostiushka A-4, H-3 Kostomarova I-4 Kotliarevs’koho F/G-4 Kotliars’ka A-2, H-2 Kotsubyns’koho H-4/5 Kotsylovs’koho J/K-5  UKRAINE  Starobil'sk  40  °  Taganrog  Mariupol'  Berdyans'k  SEA OF AZOV  Kuban'  35 ° RUSSIAN FEDERATION  Belgorod  Izyum  Kharkiv  Kerch  K er  c he  k ns  Zaporizhzhia  Melitopol’  Feodosiya  Kursk  Pr  y  o li  v  Marhanets'  E A Yalta  AUTONOMOUS REP. OF CRIMEA  Simferopol’  Kremenchuk  Dniprodzerzhyns'k  Nova Kakhovka  Kryvyi Rih  Nikopol’  Kahovske Vdskh.  Sumy  a ok Z at Dzhankoy K arkinists'ka  Romny  Poltava  o Cherkasy  Kirovohrad  Brovary  Dn  Homyel'  Uman’  Pervomays'k  Odesa  i  Mykolayiv  Nizhyn  pr  Piv d  u country maph .B  Chornobyl' Korosten'  Mouths of the Danube  Bila Tserkva  Kyiv  30  °  B L A C K Constanta  Shostka  Konotop  Kremenchuts'ke Vdskh.  Pryluky  Chernihiv  Smila  Yevpatoriya  Lubny  Sevastopol’  Kherson  Zhovti Vody  S BULGARIA 250 300 km 150 0 50 100 25 200 mi 0 50 100 150 200  Chisinau  Vinnytsia  B E L A R U S  Kamianets'�Podil's'kyi  Zhytomyr  Novohrad� Volyns'kyi  Berdychiv  P r ipy  Dn ist e  r  Bati  b Danu  Rivne  Ternopil' R P Drohobych Stryi A T Khmel'nyts'kyi H SLOVAKIA IA N Kalush Ivano�Frankivs'k  Pinsk  et Sir  Chernivtsi  I  A  National capital Capital of Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' centre City, town Airport International boundary Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' boundary Road Railroad  VOLYNS'KA  Kolomyya  Kovel’  Luts'k  ZAKARPATS'KA OBLAST'  L'viv  M  O  P O L A N D  Mukacheve  Lublin  Warsaw  Przemysl ?  n Sa  Uzhhorod  HUNGARY  W  a i sl  °  CA  R  O  M  50  45  °  °  U  UKRAINE  Brest  N  TA  A  IN  S  Oblast names are the same as their respective centres except were labelled.  OBLAST'  25  N  °  Varna  Iasi  R  Galati Braila  e  F . O EP  DO VA M O LPrut  a ts'  Reni  Izmayil  30  °  35  °  Vorskla  Su la  De s na  lviv.inyourpocket.com  July - September 2009