Officially falling under the category of a seafood delicatessen, and aptly self-described as a 'laboratory of fish', the low-key but stylish SaluMare really comes alive in the evenings when it's packed with locals drinking modestly priced regional wines by the bottle and sampling plate after plate of freshly prepared seafood appetisers. Of course that doesn't mean you can't stop by during the day to grab a sandwich, canapé, salad or some other wonderful seafood-based concoction from one of the only places in all of Italy that still hand smokes its fish.