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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps June - July 2008 EURO 2008: Football fever hits Zagreb: Check our scheduale! A gallery of events: Choose N°42 - free copy www.inyourpocket.com from our rich range of summer entertainment Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving /The Basics Feeling lost? Help is at hand! 6 9 10 18 20 30 40 History Kings, queens, rooks and pawns. Culture & Events From punk to Paganini. Euro 2008 Where to stay A place to rest your weary head. Restaurants Gluttony is next to Godliness. Cafés You‘re in Europe, enjoy it! Nightlife When you just gotta boogie. 42 What to see Where to find the pretty bits. 45 49 50 54 55 57 61 62 63 64 66 Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons. Getting around Save on shoe leather. Transport map Shopping Business Directory Lifestyle Directory Maps & Index Street index Country map City centre map City map June - July 2008 4 Foreword If you’ve just arrived in Zagreb, welcome, and we hope you’ll enjoy all the treats we have in store for you. We guess you’re either passing through on your way to or from the sea, here for a city break, visiting family or on a business trip. We hope you’re going to be as delighted with this issue of ZIYP as we are. Summer is truly the time when folklore is at its height in Croatia, because it’s always been one of the highlights of the tourist season, delighting visitors to Zagreb and the coast for years. Since some spectacular events are happening at the beginning of June, we suggest you turn to the centre pages without delay, and schedule some trips to the towns and villages around Zagreb, where there are some real treats in store. Apart from that, there’s been quite a lot of movement on the nightlife and dining scenes, so having worked up an appetite and a thirst whilst planning your trips, turn to the Where to Eat and By Night sections, where you’ll find out about some truly great new places to tune out, relax and enjoy the warm summer evenings. Živjeli! Europe In Your Pocket Cover Story You know they say that football is the most important auxiliary activity in the world. Well, according to research by the agency GFK, Croatian football fans feel that nothing is as vital as football, not even their beloved better halves can compete with football. Our front cover is just a small insight into the coming celebrations expected in Zagreb come Euro 2008. Knitting on the cover is the handwork of Zdravka Ivandija from the exhibition - 'red(i) made'. Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Published 6 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević, Željka Gorišek Mihalić, Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Cover: Gordan Karabogdan ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Zagreb In Your Pocket 6 Arriving in zAgreb Your first steps in Zagreb are likely to be pleasant, as all arrival points into the city are well cared for and looked after. Even the bus station. bAsiCs Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. For further details www.carina. hr or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61. 7 Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other. Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvar) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00,Sat 10:00 - 17:00,Sun closed.) and chapel. There are two 24-hour cafés in the station: Buffet Stop is located in the waiting area and Inch is to the right of the ticketing hall. For more than a greasy burek downed with a pint try Café Bar Bus (Open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 23:00) located right next to Inch. Or opt for Pivnica Zagreb (tel. 611 13 25. Open 24 hours ) where meals can be procured in the 30Kn range. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držica. There is also currency exchange (Mjenjacnica, Open 06:00-22:00) in the ticketing hall. Calling home: The Tisak kiosk (Open 05:00 - 23:00) sells phone cards and is located up the small staircase and to the right of the main hall. Public phones are located in the main hall or you can climb the large staircase to the top floor should you want a chance at having a private conversation. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 1.20Kn/hr unless your bag weighs over 15kg in which case you’ll be paying 2.30Kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3Kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Crnomerec to get to the main square, Trg Bana Josipa Jelačica. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60-80Kn to get to the centre. Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances. Public Toilets By plane Pleso International Airport is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. Two other currency exchanges exist: one in the post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00 in the centre of the airport and a Privredna Banka Zagreb kiosk (Open 07:30 - 19:30. Closed Sun.) in the domestic arrivals hall. Calling home: Phones are sprinkled throughout the airport and a phone card can be bought at the newsstand, Prodavaonica novina, (Open 05:00 - 23:00) located in the domestic departures area. The post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00) located in the centre of the airport also has five phone booths, which are cordoned off from prying ears should you want to whisper sweet nothings to someone. There are two cafés (Open 06:00 - 22:00) located on either side of the building. However, should you want something more substantial than a coffee and three day old sandwich trot upstairs to Faust Vrancic (Open 07:00 - 21:00), where mains cost a hefty 60Kn, but you’ll feel like your in an IKEA showroom overlooking a runway. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvar), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 25Kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200Kn(start 25HRK, 1km 7HRK, luggage 5HRK). Public toilets or WC are few and far between, and when you find one a standard 2-3kn charge is tacked on for the privilege. No fear however friend: the grinning lady that accepts your coins makes you feel honoured for the bowel release, and we’ll dare to say that your movements through town will certainly be more joyous thereafter. These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become over whelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome. Religion Roads National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 May 22 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station, Glavni kolodvor, is not as user-friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). The outdoor café innovatively called Café Zagreb Glavni Kolodvor (Open 05:00 - 23:00) provides great peoplewatching opportunities as across the street is a main tram stop. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. Calling home: In the main hall there are numerous kiosks, which sell phone cards; however, the Tisak kiosk (Open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 23:00) has the best working hours of the bunch. Public phones are located in the halls to the left and right of the main hall. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 6:00 - 10:00, 10:30 - 18:00, 18:30 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities, Garderoba, are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 10Kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg Bana Josipa Jelačica, take tram N°6 towards Crnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Zitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50Kn. Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. Citizens from Australasia, EU, North and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa. Everybody else needs a visa which must be obtained before en tering the republic - you can’t do this at any Croatian land border. For the complete list visit www.inyourpocket.com or con tact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at C-2/3, Trg N.Š. Zrinjskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www. mvp.hr. You are required by law to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to complete some paper work at the police station (tel. 92) - be sure to bring your passport! And no, the police won’t hunt you down should you fail to register with them, it merely saves you a lot of headache if you should find yourself in trouble while you’re in Croatia. Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 10 eggs McDonald‘s Big Mac Loaf of white bread Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket 45kn 12kn 14.9kn 5.5kn 4.9kn 20kn 8kn €6.00 €1.60 €1.98 €0.73 €0.65 €2.73 €1.06 Climate 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J FMAMJ J A SOND Visas Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 Exchange rates (as of 27. 05. 2008): US$1 = 4,60kn € 1 =7,25kn www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2008 Zagreb In Your Pocket 8 HistorY In the beginning... Around 625 A.D. a Slavic tribe known as the Croats makes its way south from present-day Poland. The exo dus takes over a cen tury in its progression. 9th Century In 800 the Church of the Holy Cross of Nin is inscribed with the Latin Here the weak man is brought to light because of Prince Višeslav’s Christian conversion. By the end of the century (879) Croatia is recognised as an indepen dent state under Branimir's rule. 10th Century Croatia reaches its greatest power under the rule of Tomislav (910 - 929) who brings Croats together to form a unified state. Granted papal permission, he rules a great army and repels Hungarian forces (924). Pope Clement IV crowns him king in 925. 11th Century Croatia is both offi cially and irreversibly Catholic with the reign of King Petar Krešimir (1058 - 1074). The name Zagreb is first employed as a name for the land south of Medvednica Moun tain in 1094. 12th Century Croatia en ters a personal union with Hun gary (1102). The two countries share kings for the next 400 years but remain separate states both cul turally and legally. 13th Century Four crusades are led against the people of the Dalmatian coast. In 1204, crusaders occupying Zadar are given a fleet of warships by Pope Innocent III, helping them control the region. 14th Century Pope Clement V attacks Zadar (1312) and Venice takes control of a large part of the coast, in cluding both Split and Nin. 15th Century King Ladislav (Naples) sells enormous tracts off the Dalma tian coast to Venice (1409). The Ottoman Turks invade (1493) and nearly all of the Croatian aristocracy are killed in the Krbavska battle. They’re able to take over much of the country. Though they closely approach Zagreb on numerous occassions, they’re never able to capture it. 16th Century Pope Leo X calls Croatia Antemurale Christianitatis (a perimeter bul wark) as it struggles to survive the wrath of the Ottomans (1519). In 1526 Ludovik II, the last king of Croatia, is killed in the battle of Mohac. Austrian Duke Ferdinand is given the crown to get protection from the Turks. 17th Century Counts Zrinski and Frankopan, two leaders of powerful Croatian families, attempt to start a revolt against the Austrian rulers but fail. They are hunted down and beheaded in 1671. By the end of the 17th Century, cen tral Croatia is sovereign of the Turkish armies. 18th Century The last year of the Ottoman presence is 1718. Maria Theresa be comes the empress (1740) and the first female ruler of the Austro-Hun garian empire. Her son Joseph II inherits the throne. Af ter his death, Hungary attempts to Hungarianise the Croats, which mani fests in an attempted co ercion of cultural, lin guistic and social conventions. 19th Century The Napoleonic French wrestle Dubrovnik away from Russian and Montenegrin forces who are fighting for the city (1808). Though their occupation proves to be very short (ending in 1813), French forces reach a spot mere kilometres from Zagreb before being turned away. Ljudevit Gaj (1834), respurns the pa triotic Illyrian movement which serves to mend the many lan guages and dialects of the coun try into one. It also creates a renewed sense of na tionalism and by 1847 Croatian replaces Latin as the offi cial lan guage in Parliament. In 1848 Croatian Duke Jelačić helps Austria to suppress a Hun garian rebellion and abolishes serfdom. Early 20th Century Austrian Duke Ferdinand is assassinated by Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip (1914) and World War I begins. Aus tria attacks Serbia, di viding Croatian sen timent. The Austro-Hungarian monarchy is ultimately destroyed (1918), and a new alliance is brought about called the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. It’s a tense union, with the balance of power clearly held by Serbia. In a session of parliament in 1928, the leader of the HSS, (Croatian Peasants' Party) Stjepan Radić is shot for his in depen dent posturing by Puniša Racić, a Serbian ex tremist. Four of Radić’s colleagues are also shot and killed; he dies from his wounds a couple of months later. A young Croat known by the nick name Tito becomes leader of the Communist Party of Yu goslavia in 1937. Communism And Beyond - World War II be gins in 1939 and by 1941 Yugoslavia is part of the fighting. Military and ideological alle giance is split three ways: Tito’s Partizani army resists the Nazi regime on German and Italian occupied fronts; the Ante Pavelić led Ustaša faction supports Hitler; the Serbian Četnici seek to re tain the Yu goslavian monarchy, (although also were known to collaborate with the fascists). German forces con trol a large territory in cen tral and eastern Croatia, referred to as the In depen dent State of Croatia (NDH). 1943 The Anti-Fascist National Liberation Coun cil of Yu goslavia meets and sets up their first parliament. AVNOJ is led by Tito, re-affirming fascist resistance and expressing intent to con trol Yugoslavia. 1945 Yugoslavia is lib erated from Nazi forces. Some of the Pavelić-led Ustaša attempt to flee to Aus tria and are captured by Partizan forces near the town of Bleiburg. They surren der and are imme diately executed. It’s hard to believe that the orders for this act were not known of or designated by Tito, but it remains a matter of great debate. Tito is soon in con trol of Yu goslavia. Pavelić evades capture and escapes to Argen tina. 1948 Stalin fails in his attempt to persuade Tito to ally himself with the staunch communism practiced in the Soviet Union. The move creates great tension between the two powers and is not wholly supported by the people. This is one of the few aspects of the Tito legacy that is popularly supported by the Croats. 1961 Tito formulates a notion of Nesvrstani (Non-Allied Coun tries) as a reaction to the re cent creation of NATO and the Warsaw Pact. 1967 - 1971 A Serbo-Croat dic tionary is published, seeming to make Serbian the stan dard lan guage and Croatian a subordinate to it. The Declaration Con cerning the Name and Position of the Croatian Lan guage is published imme diately thereaf ter, demanding the recognised equality of all four Yugoslavian state lan guages. A ripple of Croatian na tionalism begins to be felt, ideologically referred to as Croatian Spring (Hrvatsko proljeće). Tito briefly aligns himself with the Croatian Spring though soon changes his opinion, feeling this action goes against his Yu goslavian rallying cry of broth erhood and unity (Bratstvo i jedinstvo). 1980 - 1988 Tito dies on May 4, 1980, thus signalling the beginning of the end of Yu goslavia as it had so long been known. The de cade is a turbulent one for the Croatian people, many wishing to retain the poli tics and ideologies of Tito, and a great many others wishing to express their in depen dence and a more demo cratic vision. The economies of both Yu goslavia and Croatia begin a steady decay, greatly heightening tensions. 1990 An uprising of the people demands the first democratic vote, and a nationalist ex-Par ti zan gen eral named Franjo Tuđman (HDZ) is named the first president ever of the Croatian state. Though he wins the popular vote, he faces a terribly segregated state. Serbian military presence (JNA - Yugoslav People’s Army) and police in fluence commands a supremely powerful faction within the newly in depen dent Croatia, creating an electrifying current of tension. A referen dum results in an over whelming vote for an in depen dent Croatia. The first Croatian consti tution is written, professing Croatia an independant and demo cratic state. www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket 10 Culture & events Zozoli Culture & events 11 June 01 - 10, Fashion Designers: Ida Jakšić This is the 2nd edition of the museum’s exhibition called ‘Fashion Designers’ at the permanent display in the Museum of Arts and Crafts. Popular Croatian fashion designers find it a great outlet to display their talents and Ida Jakšić’s designs will be featured in June. Museum of Arts and Crafts (B-3) Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. 488 21 11 June 01 - 15, Retrospective by Josip Butković A prominent Croatian graphic artist known for the so-called ‘land art’ affect. In his works, Butković tries to combine traditional graphic art with experimental graphics in the spirit of Fluxus or neodada. Prsten Gallery - HDLU, (E-3) Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel. 461 18 18 June 01 - 30, Strossmartre In this case dear readers, SOS refers to ‘Summer on the Stross’. Each year a feast of cultural events, entertainment, film and theatre shows are held along the Strossmayer promenade in the Old Upper Town of Zagreb. Great for a stroll! Strossmayerovo šetalište bb (B-2) June 01 - July 27, The Early Christian Basilica of Saint Mary of Formoza in Pula This exhibition showcases the sacral complex of the 6th century basilica which can be compared to the similar basilica in Poreč called the Eufrasiana Basilica, by its original splendour. Archaeological Museum (C-2) Trg N. Š. Zrinskog 19, tel. 487 31 01 June 01 - July 29, Josip Diminić - Sculptor‘s vision of a drawing The exhibition will showcase Diminić’s exceptional clarity as a drawing artist and his recognisable organic sculptures in polychrome, as well as his feeling for the volume and texture of stone which he then literally ‘pours’ into his drawings. Kabinet Grafike (C-3) A. Hebranga 1, tel. 492 23 74 Herman Hemetek May 26 - June 03, The 25th Contemporary Dance Week Festival In celebrating its jubilee 25th anniversary, this festival promotes modern and expressive dance forms as well as theatre movement and mime. Performers from all over the world will present poetic dance expressions ranging from classical to modern types of dance art. Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, Theatre Gavella (B-2) Frankopanska 8-10 May 31 - June 05, Animafest - World Festival of Animated Film Visit this film bonanza with an outrageous number of short animated and contemporary films on show. A student competition alone brings us 79 screenings, whilst three panoramas will give us an insight into contemporary animated production. For the ver y first time, a rich supplementary program will include a presentation on African animation. A program called The Masters of the Animation will give viewers a unique chance to learn more about the works of some of the great world animators. Grič Cinema (C-2) Jurišićeva 6, Gliptoteka (C-1) Medvedgradska 2 June 01, ‘Harlem Story’ - the musical review by Peter Herbolzeheimer The ‘Harlem Story’ production was first staged in 1984; nine American singer-dancers told the story of life in New York’s controversial suburb. See how the legendary jazz composer Peter Herbolzheimer reinvigorates this retro production. Studio Bajsić Croatian Televison (I-4) Prisavlje 3, Call for reservations. Tel. 611 16 00 June 01 - 07, The 6th Festival of European Short Stories Both Zagreb and Dubrovnik will bring together some of the best contemporary European short story writers. Literature buffs can expect a great atmosphere and a star line-up of European writers (Janice Galloway, Lydie Salvayre, Jordi Punti...). Profil Megastore, Bogovićeva 7 (C-2), Theatre ITD, Savska 25 (A-4), British Council, Ilica 12 (C-2), Booksa, Martićeva 14d (D-2) June 03 - 04, Vip InMusic Festival Just look at the line up and what more can be said. Guests include Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, Tinariwen, Amadou & Mariam, Dreadzone, Serj Tankian (System of a Down), Seun Kuti & Egypt 80, The Prodigy, Stereo MC’s, Hop Chip, Let 3, Ed Kuepper & Jeffrey Wegener and many others. Lake Jarun (G-5) June 03 - 14, Magda Dulčić (1977 - 2007) Retrospective of animated films and comic books (The 18th Animafest) Ulupuh Gallery (C-1) Tkalčićeva 14 June 03 - 30, The 4th Croatian Drawing Triennial ‘Fifty years of tradition - from biennial to triennial 1968 - 2008’ See by far the largest national exhibition of drawings with an added international flavor. Some of the nation’s finest drawings will be displayed with the goal of maintaining this classic art form which is gradually dissipating to ‘more popular’ mediums / techniques. Gliptoteka (C-1) Medvedgradska 2, tel. 468 60 50 June 03 - July 27, The 2nd Croatian Biennial of Illustration Find out what’s new in both Croatian and world illustration. This years event includes book and newspaper illustrations, as well as illustrations for children and youth. Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 485 19 26 June 19 - August 31, Fashion ambassador (Žuži Jelinek’s Zagreb Fashion Salon) A red hot topic on the calendar is the opening of one of Croatia’s first and yet foremost finest fashion designers. In an acclaimed career spanning decades, Jelinek’s fashion designs also represent a piece of Zagreb’s fashion history. Zagreb City Museum (C-1) Opatička 20, tel. 485 13 61 June 02 - 08, Cest is d‘ best Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition, it is the audience that gets involved and participates which explains this year’s motto ‘You too, are the festival’. Square Jelačić, Flower Square (C-1) June 07, Foklore Ensemble A concert by the Pavao Markovac Folkore Ensemble. Ever yone is welcome! International Centre for Culture, Božidara Magovca 17, tel. 660 16 26 Jelena Miletić June 01 - Sept 28, El Shatt - The Escape from Croatia into the Sinai desert, Egypt 1944-46 An exhibition based on historical events during WWII which presents life in a refugee camp as seen through the eyes of ordinary men. The location was set in the Sinai desert where blocks of refugee camps were built. Due to military actions in Dalmatia, the Allies had organized for more than 30,000 people to be evacuated between1944 to1946.This was one of the first camps in the entire war. Croatian Historical Museum (B-1) Matoševa 9, tel. 485 19 00 June 02, Judas Priest & Cavalera Conspiracy The mighty Judas Priest will have heavy metal fans saluting one of the all time legends of that genre. Since 1968 the band has continued to stamp their unique sound and they visit Zagreb as part of their European tour, promoting their newest album ‘Nostradamus’. Dom sportova (H-3)Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11 Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 12 Culture & events Culture & events 13 June 08, Animafest - World Festival of Animated Film We just can’t leave out the little kids as this is a real treat for young movie lovers with films from all over the world to see; Russia, Switzerland, Canada and more. In addition, if you enjoy concerts with ‘tambura’ ensembles, then attend the 31st meeting of Zagreb’s music amateurs; you are sure to find something you like. Trešnjevka Centre for Culture (H-3), Park Stara Trešnjevka 1 June 09, Mark Knopfler The very own front man from rock legends Dire Straits, Mark Knopfler visits Zagreb in June. He continues his Kill to get Crimson Tour and the Scotsman is sure to rock the house down. Dom sportova (H-3)Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11 June 10, Klape Cesarice, Cakulone, Falkuše, Kogul One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klape (traditional accapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Four klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable evening in the city of Zagreb. Hrvatski glazbeni zavod (Croatian Music Institute (B-2) Gundulićeva 6 June 11 - 15, Jewish Film Festival A festival which presents contemporary films made from all over the world, each with its own link to vast Jewish themes. The festival then moves to neighboring countries so for more info visit. Cinema Europa (B-2) Varšavska 3, tel. 487 28 88 Hodak  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 14 Culture & events June 13, Claudio Monteverdi: Orpheus Considered by many as the first opera ever? It premiered in 1607 and majestically entwines lyric and music with divinity, humanity, doubt, happiness and despair. A journey we are all in common with. It’s harmonious and after 400 years, this is the first ‘Orpheus’ performed in Zagreb. Croatian National Theatre (B-3)Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. 482 85 32 June 21, Fete de la Musique The French titles keep coming up as this traditional event is dedicated to the celebration of music. It promotes a range of musical performances by both professional and amateur musicians. So let the festival begin. Ohhh… set at numerous venues around town. Petar Preradović Square (Cvjetni trg C-2), Zrinjevac Pavilion (C-2), St Blasius Church (C-1) Baukač Culture & events 15 June 17 - 24, Fedor Kritovac Urban art itself can take shape in many forms and medium, here we see Zagrebački street art on display. A dose of municipal culture is always refreshing. Ulupuh Gallery (C-2) Tkalčićeva 14, tel. 481 37 46 June 17 - July 06, Instead of a good night story You know the expression ‘every picture tells a story’; then this International Exhibition of Photography has many stories to tell. In addition, an exhibition by Tomislav Buntak is sure to put the icing on the cake. Art Pavilion (C-3) Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 484 10 70 June 17 - July 31, Đuro Janeković: Photographs A renowned photographer who’s most important work was made as part of the New Objectivity (Neue Sachlikeit), which is a rare example in Croatian photography. Over 1600 photos from his 1930’s period will be displayed. Museum of Arts and Crafts (B-3) Trg maršala Tita 10, Tel. 488 21 11 June 19 - 22, Fireworks Festival What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the on-ground entertainment whereas the fireworks, which are held every evening, will set the sky alive. Lake Bundek (J-4) June 21 - July 03, Eurokaz - The 22nd International Festival of New Theatre For the 22nd year running, see contemporary theatre through dance, other artistic performances and phenomenon such as ‘iconoclastic theatre’, post-mainstream, body art and contemporary circus just to mention a few… Local and international productions are abundant. See the schedule! Theatre ITD (A-4) Savska 25, Theatre Gavella (B-2) Frankopanska 8-10, Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, Croatian Nathional Theatre (B-3) Trg maršala Tita 15 Irena Škrinjar www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 16 Culture & events June 26 - July 20, Be a Happy Worker: Work to Rule! The newest concepts and ideas of young artists are always refreshing. This group exhibition comprises of works by (Sanja Iveković, Igor Grubić, Tanja Dabo, Societe Realiste, Pavel Mrkuš...) Gallery Miroslav Kraljević (E-3) Šubićeva 29 June 26 - July 31, ‘Lik žene u ilustraciji, karikaturi, stripu’ Comic and cartoon fans look out. You know who you are! The exhibition of the Section for illustration, caricature, comic book and animated film of the Croatian Academy of Fine Arts (custodians Saša Brkić and Lidija Butković) will be top pick on your calendar. Ulupuh Gallery (C-1) Tkalčićeva 14 June 30, Helmet One of the most innovative and talked about alternative metal bands of the 90’s rocks Zagreb. Led by guitarist Page Hamilton, the band will be supported by local act Good Day to Die. SKUC-Pauk Hall (H-5), Jarunska 2 July 01 - 31, Zagreb Summer Evenings For a change in tempo, a series of classical music concerts performed by renowned Croatian and international musicians will be held during the summer across beautiful venues in Zagreb’s Lower and Upper Town. Atrium Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg 4, Gradec (C-1) July 04 - 06, Rokaj Fest This is one festival that’s attracting a lot of hype as over 30 bands from Croatia and abroad will set the stage for a true rock atmosphere. An impressive line-up includes acts by Lemonheads, Wire, Godfathers, These New Puritans, Dwarves and the Datsuns. Visitors will surely enjoy the music by local and regional bands such as Edo Majka, Urbana&4, Zadruga, Vatra, Ramirez, Stampedo, Partibrejkers and Rambo Amadeus. Lake Jarun (G-5) July 16 - 20, The 42nd International Folklore Festival Witness a piece of true Croatian culture and kick up your heels as respected local and foreign ensembles perform. Two shows will be dedicated to; verbal forms of folklore called ‘Let’s talk and sing in Croatian’ (focusing on Croatian dialects with wedding speeches, festivity speeches etc) and the folklore of the Gorski Kotar region. The national costumes alone are a sheer delight and are sure to brighten your day. Ban Jelačić Square (C-2), Gradec (C-1), Tvornica (J-3) Šubićeva 2, Ethnographic Museum (D-3) Trg Mažuranića 14 July 29, Vlatko Stefanovski Trio & Jan Akkerman Guitar buffs stay tuned as this famous Macedonian whiz will hold a concert in town as part of his summer tour. He’ll be accompanied by Dutch guitar extraordinaire Jan Akkerman. Aquarius Club (G-6), Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. 364 02 31 Klape Remixed If the coastal regions of Croatia had a musical trademark then it would undoubtedly be the stirring sound of the klapa. Per formin g acap ella son gs wi th d eli ca te harmonies, the klapa is basically a small choir numb erin g an y thin g from three members upwards. Often made up of informal groups of friends with an instinctual feel for age-old Adriatic melodies, these choirs are an important focus of local life and a source of considerable pride for the communities they come from. Typical klapa songs focus on traditional Adriatic concerns: falling in love over a plate of squid, going night fishing with the lads, or pining for partners who are sailing the seven seas. Although klapa harmonies tend towards the smooth and soulful, the style retains a raw emotional edge: hearing a klapa perform live – whether on stage at a festival or simply serenading themselves at the table of a konoba – can send shivers down the spine. Despite its status as a national treasure, klapa singing has so far had little impact on popular culture and has received scant attention from the international World Music fraternity. Things look set to change with the release of Klape Remixed, an album of 12 songs by leading choirs remixed by a clutch of studio boffins from Croatia and beyond. The album is the brainchild of jazz musician and producer Andrej Jakuš, whose last project Dancing Bear Lounge unleashed the remixing talents of local DJs on a range of Croatian pop tunes to create a Zagreb In Your Pocket seductive Adriatic party groove. Bringing the same spirit of sonic surgery to bear on something as deeply traditional as klapa singing involves a certain amount of risk. Rather like re-painting the national flag in day-glo colours, it seems guaranteed to upset the purists. While most of the songs on the album have been dressed up in dance-friendly, club-going clothes, several have been given startlingly avantgarde treatments by foreign producers unhindered by any inherited reverence for the klapa tradition. The choirs who appear on the album had to give up their songs entirely to the whims of the re-mixers – one can only guess at their reactions on hearing the final product. German knob-twiddler Hecq used such small fragments the klapa original that little of the song remains save for the sound of choir members taking breath between their lines. His Japanese colleague Sunao Inami edited his klapa song down to a small number of phrases, producing a surreal collage of cut-up lyrics and bone-crunching, beatheavy backing. It remains to be seen whether Klape Remixed brings new listeners to the klapa genre or simply sends them running for the hills. As a serious invitation to freshen up your ears, however, it’s not to be turned down lightly. Klape Remixed is ou t now on Dancing Bear records. Best place to experience traditional klapa singing is at the Omiš Klapa Festival (www.fdk.hr), which features outdoor concerts in the centre of Omiš throughout the month of July. The promotion of Klape Remixed cd will be held on Jelačić Square on June 12 at 16:00. 18 euro 2008 world CuP Fixtures GROUP A 7 June, 18:00 BASEL euro 2008 And the winner is... VIENNA 19 GROUP B 8 June, 18:00 Where to watch You have just arrived to Zagreb and are eager to follow the European Football Championships, but don’t know where. Fear not, for almost every café in the heart of town will screen the games. Not to mention the Football Bar being set up at Ban Jelačić Square that is over 1000m2 in area. Lake Bundek hosts ‘Football Corner’ with four mini type bars set up around the lake with games, sporting activities and concerts to be held almost every night. So take your pick dear readers and get into the spirit of the world game. Switzerland 7 June, 20:45 Czech Republic GENEVA Austria 8 June, 20:45 Croatia KLAGENFURT Portugal 11 June, 18:00 Turkey GENEVA Germany 12 June, 18:00 Poland KLAGENFURT Lopsided groups, the worst host nations since the competition began, and not a single English-speaking nation taking part. Yep, it’s Euro 2008 time, and in the absence of England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland et al, it’s time to take stock of the 16 teams who will be competing for the trophy. Group A Switzerland, Czech Republic, Portugal, Turkey Czech Republic 11 June, 20:45 Portugal BASEL Croatia 12 June, 20:45 Germany VIENNA Switzerland 15 June, 20:45 Turkey BASEL Austria 16 June, 20:45 Poland KLAGENFURT Switzerland 15 June, 20:45 Portugal GENEVA Poland 16 June, 20:45 Croatia VIENNA Turkey Czech Republic Austria Germany GROUP C 9 June, 18:00 ZURICH GROUP D 10 June, 18:00 INNSBRUCK One thing is for certain: Switzerland, the co-hosts, will not top this group. Indeed, even the most optimistic Swiss football fan admits that avoiding total humiliation will be an achievement. Portugal look to be the tastiest outfit in this group, but as always we expect them to crumble just when they look like winning something and though they may make the final they will not win the trophy. Too good for the ageing Czechs and Turks they should top the group, with the experience of the Czechs seeing them through in second place. Group B Austria, Croatia, Germany, Poland Romania 9 June, 20:45 France BERNE Spain 10 June, 20:45 Russia SALZBURG Netherlands 13 June, 18:00 Italy ZURICH Greece 14 June, 18:00 Sweden INNSBRUCK Italy 13 June, 20:45 Romania BERNE Sweden 14 June, 20:45 Spain SALZBURG Netherlands 17 June, 20:45 France BERNE Greece 18 June, 20:45 Russia SALZBURG Netherlands 17 June, 20:45 Romania ZURICH Greece 18 June, 20:45 Spain INNSBRUCK France Italy Russia Sweden It is the golden rule of football betting: never wager against the Germans. Anyone placing each-way bets on Germany at major tournaments over the past 50 years has made a tidy sum. The same applies this time around: we see Germany winning this competition, and we doubt very much that they will need an Anschluss with their Austrian hosts to make it out the group. (History buffs will remember that the last time Austria and Germany were paired together in a major tournament, in Spain at the 1982 World Cup, an already-qualified Austria politely stood aside while Germany beat them 1-0 to join them in the second-phase at the expense of Algeria). Austria this time are the whipping boys, and second place behind Germany will be fought out between Croatia and Poland. We expect the Poles to sneak it. Group C Italy, France, Netherlands, Romania Every major international championship has its ‘Group of Death’. This is a particularly gruesome quartet, however, with even group underdogs Romania capable of winning the tournament. They won’t, of course, but they might just shape this group: it could well be a case of ‘who beats Romania qualifies.’ World Champions Italy – suffering major striking problems – start as most people’s group (and indeed tournament) favourites, but we can’t help thinking that this side has peaked. France too are not the force they once were, so we go for the Netherlands to top the group, with Italy in second place. France and Romania will be on an early plane home. Group D Greece, Russia, Spain, Sweden Winning Euro 2004 and then failing to qualify for the World Cup in 2006 was a tragedy worthy of Sophocles, but Greece have bounced back and will complete something of a Homeric cycle when they take to the field in Austria. They might even sneak out of this weak group, which lacks a decent side and which is perhaps the most open of the four. Russia will – as usual – flatter to deceive, while Spain will be Spain and Sweden will fail to live up to their pre-tournament hype. We see the under-achieving Spaniards and the epic Greeks making it out of the group, but neither side will progress any further. Poland & Ukraine 2012 Given that In Your Pocket guides are now found in more than 20 countries across Europe, it is perhaps a little unfortunate that this year’s tournament is being held by two of those that we alas do not yet cover. (Though watch this space: a Vienna In Your Pocket is in the very early planning stage). The next European Championship however, being held jointly by Poland and Ukraine in 2012, will be very different. As things stand we cover a total of ten cities across the two countries in one format or another, and come kick off we will have every host city Pocketed. In Your Pocket then will be ready for the tournament. But will the hosts? Whereas the Swiss and Austrians have somewhat predictably been a paragon of organisational excellence, things move a little slower in the eastern parts of the continent. As we go to press UEFA boss Michel Platini (who vociferously backed the Poland/Ukraine bid) has been muttering under his breath at the lack of progress in preparation, and announced that he would be setting up a special task force to deal with the problems immediately after Euro 2008. Those problems primarily consist of infrastructure issues, including delays in beginning work on the construction of a number of wholly new stadiums. Add in new airport terminals, upgraded railway lines and motorways and you have a large number of crucial projects which could be delayed. Both host nations have responded that they will be more than ready when the tournament kicks off, Ukraine going so far as to create a Euro 2012 ministry. Our money is on the London Olympics proving to be not the only sporting mess of 2012... QUARTER FINALS 19 June, 20:45 BASEL SEMI-FINALS 25 June, 20:45 BASEL A ____________ (WINNER GRP A) _____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP B) I. ____________ (WINNER QF A) _____________ (WINNER QF B) 20 June, 20:45 VIENNA 26 June, 20:45 VIENNA B ____________ (WINNER GRP B) _____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP A) II. ____________ (WINNER QF C) _____________ (WINNER QF D) 21 June, 20:45 BASEL C ___________ 22 June, 20:45 (WINNER GRP C) _____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP D) FINAL 29 June, 20:45 VIENNA VIENNA D ___________ (WINNER GRP D) _____________ (RUNNER-UP GRP C) _____________ (WINNER SF I.) ______________ (WINNER SF II.) Get no kick out of football? Plenty of alternatives at www.inyourpocket.com Euro 2008 In Your Pocket June - July 2008 20 wHere to stAY Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. 204 11 11, fax 204 11 19, rezervacije@hotelantunovic. com, www.hotelantunovic.com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortabe and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included onsite. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (singles €100 - 135, 149 doubles €115 - 150, 4 suites €250 - 375, 4 junior suites €180, 1 presidental suite €750). PHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. 610 81 00, fax 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international. hr; sale@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-international. hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet area and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (205 doubles 800 - 1300Kn, 2 apartments 1800 - 3000Kn). POTHARUGK hhhh Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. 455 35 35, fax 455 35 56, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.com/zagreb. Everything you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets up to 5kg free of charge. Q306 rooms (singles €265, 277 doubles €265, 10 suites €415, 18 Junior Suite €365, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW hhhhh wHere to stAY 21 Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool Cream of the crop Spendy and well worth it, the following options include everything you could possibly need and more. Price range 690 - 11,461kn. Arcotel Allegra D-3/4, Branimirova 29, tel. 469 60 00, fax 469 60 96, allegra@arcotel.at, www.arcotel. at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary seainspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (40 singles €169 - 181, 103 doubles €184 - 196, 4 Junior Suites €210, 4 Executive Suite €334). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhh 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q85 rooms (4 singles €134 - 154, 66 doubles €144 - 169, 7 Junior suites €200, 5 Triple family suite €144, 3 Business suite €329). PHAULGBKXS hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. 480 89 00, fax 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria. hr, www.bestwestern.com. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets join for a flat fee of 30€. Q102 rooms (38 singles €119, 2 suites €262 - 300, 28 King €135 - 154, 18 Twin €135 - 154, 12 Executive €162 - 185, 4 Superior Executive €202 - 231). PTHAR6ULGK hhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. 486 35 12/ 486 35 00, fax 486 35 50, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik. hr; sales1@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles to you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva ulica. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Trg bana J.Jelačića and the buzzing café scene. No pets. Q266 rooms (166 singles €136, 92 doubles €167 - 188, 1 suite €220, 7 Junior Suite €208). PTJHA6FLGBKXW hhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. 669 59 00, fax 669 Upmarket H-3, Trg Krešimira Čosića 9, tel. 365 83 33/ 365 84 31, fax 309 26 57, fourpoints.zagreb@fourpoints.com, www.fourpoints.com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is 8 €. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q279 rooms (57 singles €165, 171 doubles €175, 17 Junior suite €210, 22 Dlx uite €265, 12 Family apartment €210). POTHARULBKW hhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. 489 20 00, fax 489 20 01, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.westin.com/zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this super-deluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service from this first-class hotel. Recently refurbished majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. With all amenities available, there are 378 rooms ranging from Q378 rooms (335 doubles €150 - 270, 23 suites €275 - 750, 19 Westin guest office €215 - 320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). POTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 22 wHere to stAY www.inyourpocket.com Old-School charm If grand hotels representative of another era are the order of the day? The following options are sure to fit the bill, and give you a glimpse of a life and a time far removed from the hustle and bustle of the 21st century. Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. 489 96 00/ 489 96 18, fax 481 13 58, palace@palace.hr, www. palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple minutes walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (29 singles €106 - 122, 88 doubles €135 - 160, 3 suites €260, 3 Junior suites €220). PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. 456 66 66, fax 456 60 50, Info.Zagreb@ RezidorRegent.com, www.regenthotels.com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, Pop (Cliff Richard), and Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (174 Superior Rooms €229, 49 Delux Rooms €254, 12 Delux Suite €384, 1 Presidential Suite €1499). POTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhhh galerija@zg.t-com.hr, www.hotel-galerija.hr. Convenient for drivers, close by one of the main entrance points into Zageb, Galerija is very new, well-equipped, and nice if you like contemporary styling. If you don’t like pastel colours, you might be a bit frightened. Kind and helpful staff. Prices include breakfast. Q18 rooms (singles €48 - 54, 16 doubles €64 - 68, triples €85 - 90, 2 apartments €82 - 110, 3 Extra bed €21). PA6LBK hhh Hotel Vila Tina K-1, Bukovačka cesta 213, tel./ fax 244 51 38, tel. 244 52 04, vila-tina@zg.htnet.hr, www.vilatina.com.hr. A posh modern building in a quiet neighbourhood near the beautiful Maksimir Park. Furnished in a cosy style, the pool with sauna and solarium tweak your comfort to turbo level. Take bus N°2 or N°3 north up Bukovačka cesta, or simply stroll up the hill. No pets. Q25 rooms (8 singles 560Kn, 14 doubles 640Kn, 3 triples 800Kn). PALGK hhh Laguna A-4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. 304 70 00, fax 304 70 77, info@hotel-laguna.hr, www.hotel-laguna.hr. Just a short tram hop from the main square, the rooms are clean and decent, some have mini-bar, and some singles have queen-sized beds. The communal areas feature great squishy couches and rugs with a knowing nod to 70s design principles. Loads of facilities including an internet terminal, travel agency, car rental, dry cleaner and gym. Pets welcome at 20€/day. Q166 rooms (62 singles 549 - 599Kn, 83 doubles 718 798Kn, 15 triples 918 - 1017Kn, 6 suites 950 - 1100Kn). PTJHA6UIFGBKDX hhh Sliško K-3, Supilova 13, tel. 619 42 22/ 619 42 10, fax 619 42 23, hotel.slisko.ugostiteljski.obrt@zg.tcom.hr, www.slisko.hr. It’s only 200m from the main bus station, making it easy access to practically everything. Very comfortable and well kept, and the staff is a very friendly one. A good option for sure if you don’t mind the short commute into town (20min on foot, 10min by tram). No pets. Q18 rooms (2 singles 392Kn, 10 doubles 531Kn, 4 triples 659Kn, 2 quads 776Kn). PTJA6ILEGBK hh Stella Nadinska 27, tel. 539 36 00/ 091 636 46 88, fax 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.hotel-stella. hr. Clean comfortable rooms, including triples (apartments are still under construction). Ask about discounts for weekend stays and during Zagreb Fair events. Shuttle service to the airport, just a few minutes away, is available by request. Q42 rooms (singles €69 - 83, 40 doubles €104, 2 triples €125, 24 Extra bed €17). PAULGW hhh The Movie Hotel A-4, Savska cesta 141, tel. 600 36 00, fax 600 36 01, info@themoviehotel.com, www. themoviehotel.com. Scene 1 - a pub, movie theme. Scene 2, silver screen theme expands with Movie Wine Gallery restaurant. Scene three: the Movie Hotel (subplot: there’s also the Movie Resort in Tribunj). There’s a cast of thousands - more than a thousand photos of movie stars with broad, bright smiles hanging just about everywhere, including in themed guestrooms. Spacious apartments, each with a kitchen and Jacuzzi shower, make this a potential family feature (for children, Boćarski dom park is nearby). Cheaper rooms are smaller, without satellite TV. Breakfast included, except with apartments. Q38 rooms (16 singles 350 - 450Kn, 19 doubles 490 - 590Kn, 3 triples 780Kn, 2 apartments 990 - 1190Kn). PAK hhh wHere to stAY Galerija G-6, Pogačićeva 9, tel./fax 654 75 70, hotel. 23 Mid-range A fair number of mid-range options can be found in the city. Be sure to check the Out Of Town section for more of them. Price range 330 - 1000Kn. As H-2, Zelengaj 2a, tel. 460 91 11, fax 460 93 03, as@hotel-as.hr, www.hotel-as.hr. The Ace caters to an upper-class clientele and there for styling is rich and classy. The staff works for every one of their four-stars. Just north of town, your surroundings are lush and less noisy as a result. No pets. Q22 rooms (singles €120, 19 doubles €134, 2 Junior suite €176, 1 Presidential suite €204, 6 Extra bed €27). PTHAIEBK hhhh Central D/C-4, Branimirova 3, tel. 484 11 22, fax 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr; prodaja@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-central.hr. Only 100m from the train station and a stone’s throw from the lovely central parks and Trg bana Jelačića, this recently renovated hotel truly lives up to its name. The southern views aren’t too thrilling but its rooms are affordable, air-conditioned and tastefully decorated. No pets. Q76 rooms (38 singles 520 - 650Kn, 33 doubles 780 - 900Kn, 5 triples 1065Kn, 4 junior suites 1400Kn). POTJHA hhh Dora D-4, Trnjanska 11e, tel. 631 19 00, fax 631 19 09, dora@zug.hr; uprava.dora@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Opened July 1, 2001, it’s fresh, clean and houses an exuberant staff that feels smiling is a joyous exercise. Rooms are very simple and it’s located on the busy Vukovarska ulica. Trg bana Jelačića is a mere 20min walk away. No pets. Great discounts at weekends. Q25 rooms (9 singles 420Kn, doubles 648Kn, 13 triples 864Kn, 3 apartments 960Kn). THABK hhh  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 June - July 2008 Zagreb In Your Pocket 24 wHere to stAY Budget Buzz Backpackers Club J-3, Babukićeva 1b, tel. 232 02 67/ 095 860 64 35, reception@buzzbackpackers. com, www.buzzbackpackers.com. It’s just a 15 minute ride by tram to the train station and the city center. You want more? How’s this for service; free air conditioning, unlimited high-speed internet access, laundry room, car parking infront of hostel and a fully equipped guest kitchen and lots more. Q9 rooms (3 singles €40, 1 double €50, 5 Dormitory (32 beds) €17). PAGW Fala I-4, II Trnjanske ledine 18, tel./fax 611 10 62, hotel-fala@hotel-fala-zg.hr, www.hotel-fala-zg.hr. Rooms are miniature but clean and well-suited to supporting your horizontal person. The price isn’t bad and the location is a straight shot south of the train station (about 2km). No pets. Q15 rooms (4 singles 343Kn, 9 doubles 486Kn, 2 Family room 732Kn). PA hh Ilica A-2, Ilica 102, tel. 377 75 22, fax 377 77 22, info@hotel-ilica.hr, www.hotel-ilica.hr. Though the rooms (especially the singles) are small enough to have you cuddling with your luggage, the staff couldn’t be any friendlier. Its location just west of centre is one of the best in town. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q25 rooms (9 singles 399Kn, 8 doubles 499Kn, 2 triples 699Kn, 4 apartments 849Kn, 2 Twin Rooms 599Kn). PTJRULNGK hh Jadran D-2, Vlaška 50, tel. 455 37 77, fax 461 21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.hr. Located in the heart of Zagreb, everything is immediately accessible. Refurbished this century, it looks very good, though rooms can smell a bit smoky. Vlaška street below is on the noisy side, but the double glazing and a/c should ensure beauty sleep for all but the most delicate princess. A fair price for the excellent location. No pets. Q48 rooms (18 singles 517Kn, 26 doubles 724Kn, 4 triples 901Kn). PTJALK hhh Jaegerhorn C-2, Ilica 14, tel. 483 38 77, fax 483 35 73, info@hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr, www.hotel-pansionjaegerhorn.hr. A centrally located, small hotel - you’re right in a charming old shopping complex right by the main square. Rooms are decent but a little on the Spartan side. The hotel’s restaurant specialises in game dishes and has a great terrace. Prices include breakfast. No pets. Q13 rooms (3 singles 490Kn, 8 doubles 590 - 690Kn, 2 apartments 890Kn). PJAILGBKX hh Meridijan 16 J-4, Ul. Grada Vukovara 241, tel. 606 52 00, fax 606 52 01, desk@meridijan16.com, www. meridijan16.com. Is near centre! Nor is expensive! All rooms have internet connections, LCD TVs and look really posh except for someone stuck the little tiles with the ribbons on in the bathrooms upside down, which could be extremely upsetting. A locked car park with CCTV costs 10€/night. Full breakfast with unlimited coffee included. Day rate (11-18h), VAT not included 250Kn. No pets. Q25 rooms (13 singles €61, 10 doubles €82, 1 triple €103, 1 apartment €82). PARIL hhh Zagreb J-4, D. Tomljenovića Gavrana bb, tel. 663 73 33, fax 663 72 29, zagreb@hup-zagreb.hr, www. hotelzagreb.com.hr. The architecture is unlikely to get your heart throbbing, but it’s perfectly decent inside, with fair facilities for the price. Zagreb Fair is close, and town is a ten-minute drive away. Set in a green area near the freshly face-lifted Bundek lakes. Q47 rooms (9 singles 300Kn, 38 doubles 350Kn). A6K hh wHere to stAY 25 www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 26 wHere to stAY Short term rental info@inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. Why stay in an impersonal hotel when you can enjoy Zagreb in style & super comfort! InZagreb has 6 well-equipped & cheerfully bright apartments with lots of space. 5 are centrally located and 1 is in Novi Zagreb, with all essential amenities nearby. Friendly & helpful management leave you well taken care of in the services of a modern home including (and more), kitchen appliances, cable/satellite TV, DVD, internet access, air-con, heating, washing machine, even complimentary food basics in case you come into town late! Extras include pick-up service, city guides, even a bike to zip around town, everything to make your stay truly enjoyable.With room for up to 3 or 4 people, at €65-€85, its a steal! Fab discounts for longer stays! Q (6 apartments €65 - 85). PTAFBC Never stop, Nemoj stati D-3, Boškovićeva 7a, tel. 487 32 25/ 091 637 81 11, nest@nest.hr, www.nest. hr. Staying in Zagreb for longer than a few days? Never Stop (NEST) is a short-term apartment rental agency with a delightfully friendly, service-oriented staff and a range of elegant, city centre apartments with all mod cons (including internet access). The minimum stay is three days, and prices drop depending on the length of stay. Cleaning and laundry are included in the price. NEST offer package deals with Hertz for reduced apartment and car rental, and regular clients can join the NEST club to receive other special offers. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. wHere to stAY InZagreb H-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. 091 652 32 01, 27 Out of town There’s not a whole lot to choose from in town, but if you have a vehicle numerous options abound. Most of them are in the mid-price-range, 210-880kn. Gaj G-4, Jezerska 24a, tel. 381 72 22, fax 381 72 25, hotelgaj@hotelgaj.hr, www.hotelgaj.hr. The staff is top-notch and the Scandinavian feel of the place makes for a very comfortable stay. Pets welcome at 5€/day. Q34 rooms (2 singles €61, 26 doubles €82, 1 triple €96, 5 apartments €81). PHA6ULGKD hhh Golden Tulip Holiday H/I-4, Ljubljanska avenija bb, tel. 349 66 21, fax 349 65 96, hotel-holiday@zg.t-com.hr; prodaja@hotel-holiday.hr, www.hotel-holiday.hr. All the services you could ever imagine are part of its offering, though it’s hard to get past its dilapidated look on the exterior. Friendly staff and easy access to Zagreb centre (20min) by car. It’s close to Metro mega store too if you’re looking to stockpile for Armageddon. Pets welcome at 10€/day. Q163 rooms (61 singles €65, 98 doubles €92, triples €105, 2 suites €130, 2 Junior Suite €101). POTHAR6UIGBKSW hhh I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. 614 12 22, fax 654 29 61, info@hotel-i.hr, www.hotel-i.hr. Hotel I, just south of the River Sava, has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment, and you’ll find the rooms comfortable and looking really good. The staff do their utmost to please, and the location means you can avoid city centre traffic nightmares. Meeting rooms, nearby sports facilities and a restaurant offering local specialities complete the picture. No pets. Q Tennis and golf215 rooms (76 singles €70, 127 doubles €96, 8 triples €120, 4 suites €127). PTHA6ULEGBKW hhh paradise.hr, www.hotel-paradise.hr. Located just west of the CBD, this relatively new hotel has all the ticks in the right sections. Comfortable rooms suitable for both the individual and families, fair prices and a delightful restaurant with a buffet breakfast that is sure to please. Q12 rooms (1 singles 380Kn, 9 doubles 420 - 510Kn, 2 family rooms 880 - 1100Kn). hhh Phoenix outskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel./fax 200 63 33, hotelphoenix@hotelphoenix.com.hr, w w w. hotelphoenix.com.hr. Your thrill level rises as you walk through this place and are amazed by all that it has to offer. From the classy dining room to the exquisite solarium/sauna/ gym, you will quickly see this place has taken it to the next level. Styling is of the new antique variety and beautiful oil paintings are featured prominently. A great place if you have a car and are looking for a quiet and superb getaway. Pets by prior arrangement. Q49 rooms (3 singles 518Kn, 36 doubles 712Kn, 7 triples 900Kn, 3 apartments 825Kn). PTHAFBKD hhh Paradise Štrokinec 26, tel. 346 49 59, info@hotel- Vienna G-3, Zagrebačka cesta 211, tel. 386 27 77, fax 386 28 08, hotelvienna@net.hr, www.hotelviennazg.com. Warm, modern and not especially Viennese, the rooms are all light wood with duvets akin to those featured in a Laura Ashley catalogue. The in-house Italian restaurant is fabulous and the café has a delectable array of sweets. Q14 rooms (singles €69, 11 doubles €85, 3 triples €113). PALBK hhh Evistas Evistas D-3 Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. 483 95 54, 483 95 46, fax 483 95 43, evistas@zg.t-com.hr. Let the friendly English-speaking staff hook you up with a place in the city centre. Private accommodation ranging from hosted rooms to apartments with all mod cons including a/c and internet. Transfers and other services are available, all at affordable prices. www.travel-tourist.com  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 Zagreb In Your Pocket A small family hotel that gives to it‘s guests comfortable stays wi th quali t y and provides a sui table accommodation for business people and tourists. Situated in a quiet street, in the western part of Zagreb, proximate to the Jankomir shoping zone. Štrokinec 26, 10090 Zagreb, tel: 01/ 3464-959, info@hotel-paradise.hr, www.hotel-paradise.hr June - July 2008 28 wHere to stAY wHere to stAY 29 Hostels Hostel grad mladih L-2, Granešina bb, tel. 298 40 73, fax 298 40 71, www.nazor.hr. It’s a kids’ camp, so accommodation is a little school-like (but pleasant). There’s loads to do, and you’re in the lush green foothills of Mount Medvednica, above the eastern neighbourhood of Dubrava. Take bus 208 or 209 from the Dubec tram stop. Q196 rooms (16 doubles 105Kn, 180 quads 95Kn). TALEGK Ravnice Youth Hostel K/L-2, I Ravnice 38d, tel. 233 23 25, fax 234 56 07, ravnice-youth-hostel. hr@zg.t-com.hr, www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr. This hostel knows how it’s supposed to be done and is exactly what the city has needed. Opened in July 2001, it’s of the simple dormitory style and is woody and very clean. The self-kitchen and friendly host takes the experience to the next level. An internet café is part of the scene, you’ll be happy if this is your choice and you don’t mind the short jaunt into town (15minute tram ride). Q rooms (1 12 2 bed rooms 125Kn, 1 10 bed rooms 125Kn). R Zagreb Youth Hostel D-3, Petrinjska 77, tel. 484 12 61, fax 484 12 69, zagreb@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs. hr. The location is excellent - right in the heart of town, close to the bus and train stations. The staff couldn’t try harder to please you. And it’s cheap as chips. Prices are per person, including tourist tax. Q55 rooms (5 singles 185 - 255Kn, 20 doubles 255 - 340Kn, 5 triples 300Kn, 25 Dormitary 90Kn). TJARG Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 30 restAurAnts Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet Smoking Section A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station 6 Animal friendly restAurAnts 31 Spice of life fax 487 15 31, asia86@zg.t-com.hr, www.restoranasia.ipo.hr. Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70-130kn). PAGB Ban Thai L-2, Hrvatskog proljeća 18, tel. 295 04 90. On life’s journey faith is nourishment, the Buddha said. But journey to Dubrava to be nourished with a heavenly blend of cilantro, chilis, curry and coconut milk. The dark wood trim and Buddha’s bust are chic; TVs in each room detract slightly. Still, friendly waiters and an extensive pictorial menu help you choose your delights. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAG Islamic Cultural Center Restaurant K-4, Gavellina 40, tel./fax 613 71 59, tel. 613 71 62, info@ islamska-zajednica.hr, www.islamska-zajednica. hr. While taking a look at the architecturally impressive Islamic Cultural Center, step just around the corner and grab a bite at the restaurant that’s part of the complex. There’s a large, airy patio with plenty of outdoor seating that overlooks gardens and greenhouses and offers a peak at the Medvednica mountain, plus another spacious dining room inside. The menu is full of Croatian favorites like ćevapi and burek and other Balkan specialties. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (10-25kn). PGB Maharadža C-1, Opatovina 19, tel. 481 43 05, info@maharadja.hr, www.krishna.hr/maharadja. Maharadža is a place that brings us tears of joy every time we re-discover it, for it’s so dam good it feels like the first time every time! With an impressive array of Indian options including a number of superb curries, the cooks know how to satisfy your tummy bored with same old crap. It’s well spiced and will have you sweating in no time. The interior gets you into relax mode immediately. QOpen 12:00 23:00. Closed Mon. (80-110kn). PAG Price range 56, fax 619 21 57, mex-cantina@asker.com, www. mex-cantina.hr. The most authentic of the lot of them, its location in Savska is the only bad thing we can say about it. Delicious, delightful and worth the trip. Reservations could save you some frustration. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (50-120kn). PAEGB Mr Chen K-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269d, tel. 618 76 18, fax 618 76 19, www.kina.hr. In the new VMD office block on the corner of Radnička and Vukovarska, this Chinese restaurant is pleasently clean and bright. The food is fresh, very tasty and light, portions are nice and big, and we were impressed by the fast and polite service.They also do sushi, and have take-away. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25-130kn). PALGB Opium D-4, Branimirova 29 (Branimir shopping centre), tel. 461 56 79, www.opium.hr. A super restaurant offering cuisine from across South-East Asia, and an adjoining cafe and cocktail bar, in the basement of the Branimir multiplex. It has the arresting décor of a poofter’s boudoir: deep, dark colours and screaming florals - a delightful ambience. Late bar weekends (including Thursdays - an advanced sign of civilisation). Q Restaurant is open 11:00-24:00, Fri and Sat 11:00-24:30, Sun 11-23:30. Bar is open 11:00-24:30, Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-24:00. PAG Sofra K-4, 1.gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, tel. 613 10 26. Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there’s still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (15-220kn). PAL Takenoko Sushi Bar C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. 486 05 30, fax 486 05 31, japanski.retsurant@takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the dining scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok speciality menu and bonus, if you’re a little unsure about these things the menu defines them for you! The open interior is in the art-design category that will trick you into believing you’re high-class. With a great wine list, sake and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free dessert, we think you’ll be quite thrilled if this is the one you choose. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. PALG Mex Cantina A-4, Savska cesta 154, tel. 619 21 Zagreb is pleasantly moderate in its food pricing. Price Cheap 8-35kn Middle 35-80kn High 120-650kn You should expect Pizza, sandwich, fast food, soup, etc. In a thin or traditional atmosphere. Salad, mixed grill, noodles and a main in a charming enough setting. Superior service, classic styling, exquisite preparation, wine, etc. Asia D-3, Šenoina 1, tel. 484 12 18/ 466 78 26, Croatian Daily Fresh Gourmet Food & Coffee C-2, Frane Petrića 1(corner of Ilica). This isn’t the place to pass the morning with a slow espresso. Instead, you can choose from a wide selection of prepared desserts, sandwiches, lunch items, breakfast pastries and drinks. And you can even get a kava to go. This shop, within view of Trg bana Jelačića and the NAMA store, is one of five that are planned to open on Masarykova, Maksimirska, Importanne Centar and Vukovarska. Try the baklava and the pita zeljanica. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTJUGS Didov san B-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. 485 11 54/ 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com, www. konoba-didovsan.com. Authentic Dalmatian cuisine as we recommend the beef and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style. The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked bread are to die for Fresh deserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva 28. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA Ivica i Marica C-1, Tkalčićeva 70, tel. 481 73 21/ 482 89 99, www.ivicaimarica.com. Ivica and Marica’s cakes are to die for: intensely delicious, using only natural, healthy ingredients. So it’s great news that they’ve opened a restaurant along the same lines: homestyle recipes in a Hansel and Gretel cottage atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:30. (40-115kn). PAGB Pauza C-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. 485 45 98, fax 485 45 86. The appropriately named Pauza will give the 30-something business crowd a pause from their working day in a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There are daily specials and tasty desserts (we recommend the cheesecake), all the right size for lunch. And if the return trip to the office isn’t particularly pressing, there’s a fairly solid wine list to choose from, as well.(30-80kn) QOpen 09:00 23:00. Closed Sun. PAG June - July 2008 Let me out! Getting your check in these parts is about as easy as the intestinal exam you had to suffer through last winter - service is supremely relaxed, thus when you’re ready simply “račun molim”. www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket 32 restAurAnts Paviljon C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 481 30 66, fax 484 10 73, info@restaurant-paviljon.com, www. restaurant-paviljon.com. When you’re attempting to put out a vibe of classy and well cultured, this becomes an essential component. A great mix of continental and seafood offerings, its location on Trg kralja Tomislava seems to sing out ‘looks like we made it’. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (65 125Kn). PAGB Pod gričkim topom C-2, Zakmardijeve stube 5, tel./ fax 483 36 07. An enjoyable restaurant with a fantastic choice of fresh fish and beautifully sliced beef. The staff will remind you of your favourite babysitter, the one who let you get away with everything. This cosy restaurant, imbued with regional and national history and hidden from the bustle of Zagreb’s busy streets, offers a unique eating experience overlooking the city centre. Though it’s expensive we think you’ll find it a great deal for its unique atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (130-250kn). PAGB Pri Zvoncu I-4, Vrbik 1/XII, tel. 619 84 73, www. prizvoncu.com. Has forged a reputation and a legion of fans for fantastic food and great value. Rustic in style, Pri Zvoncu has a super little shady garden in the peaceful neighbourhood of Vrbik, just round the corner from the British and German embassies. Although they mainly serve inland Croatian cuisine, they do fish specialities on Fridays, and cook beef and lamb ispod peke - a traditional Dalmatian cast iron bell heaped with glowing ash. The excellent wine list includes home-made white wine on tap. Make the trip south of the railway line - you won’t regret it. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30-150kn). PAB Purger E-1, Petrinjska 33, tel. 481 07 13, fax 981 86 31. Snooty fools will laugh in your face when they see the interior and find that you’re serious about steering them to this place. Do not feel embarrassed: their baseless preconceptions are their loss and it means a table will always be free for us! Cheap, local and close to the centre. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 90Kn). AGB Stara vura C-1, Opatička 20, tel. 485 13 68, fax 485 10 43, staravura@gmail.com, www.stara-vura.hr. Below the Zagreb City Museum, it’s a great mix of game and seafood dishes served up in a den of brick and darkness that seems to say ‘sunlight is overrated’. After your pupils adjust you’ll be quite happy to be here, that is until the bill arrives and you realise you have to run to the nearest ATM (tragically it’s quite a ways off). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60-200kn). PAEGB Zvijezda Kamanjo I-2, Nova Ves 84, tel. 466 71 71. In the short time since its establishment, this classy konoba has cultivated a reputation for cooking up Croatian dishes precisely the way Croatians like them. Just ask the crowds of return customers packing the place every day. You can choose either an intimate dining area decked out with antique furniture or a relaxed outdoor patio in which to sample the fare. We can recommend the specialties of the house: vješalica, rolled pork filled with cheese and ham followed up by a succulent piece of baklava. It’s definitely worth the stroll north of the center to check this place out. QOpen 12:00 23:00. Closed Mon. (35-80kn). PAGB Fast food as well as falafel for you tree-huggers out there. An internet search for the history of the doner revealed the following delightful definition: A ubiquitous foodstuff synonymous with drunkenness, tack and dubious meat content. In other words – marvellous! Open daily til 23:00 Ham ham B-2, Varšavska 8, tel. 483 04 83. A funky new fast food with a great courtyard. Breakfasts, sandwiches, grilled meats, veggie options, chips in their jackets, plus beautifully presented salads. A quick, square meal won’t be much cheaper than in normal restaurants, though, and some portions are on the small side. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (12-50kn). PNGB McDonald’s D-2, Jurišićeva 3, tel. 481 37 08, jurisiceva@hr.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.hr. The tram was crowded and a generous scent of unfiltered human body odour pervaded into every crevice. Just then some jerk with a golden-arched to-go bag entered the car. The smell of pure fry immediately overwhelmed the stench and quickly had everyone in the car salivating to the floor-boards. That, dear friends, is the freakish and almost terrifying power of the McDonald’s french fry. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAGB Manzoku Take away C-2, Gajeva 26, tel. 48 51 844, 091 1569 197, 098 94 39 916. Manzoku means “satisfaction” in Japanese, but satisfaction was lacking on a recent visit when salmon was the only available fresh fish and there was no wasabi - like a hot dog stand without mustard. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. MC Picek C-2, A. Cesarca 2, tel. 481 30 03. Mc Picek - a.k.a. Mc Chicken - is an old standby for the 03:00 clubbing crowd, dragging its weary, malnourished bones home from a night of youthful revelry. The boys who work here are a cheerful bunch considering the hours they keep. Q Open 24hrs. (10 - 25Kn). Pinguin Sandwich Bar C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. 481 14 46. Recently expanded by a few cubic millimetres, Pinguin has glammed up its menu to include hard-to-find deli items and designer bread. Still the best and healthiest fast food option in the heart of Zagreb. The outdoor stools are a nice perch from which to watch street people and theatre goers pass by. QOpen 08:30 - 05:00, Sun 19:00 - 03:00. (15-25kn). City Kebab C-1, Tkalčićeva 27. Real doner kebabs, French Le Bistro C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (The Regent Esplanade), tel. 456 66 66, fax 456 60 50, www.regenthotels.com. Legendary as a meeting and eating place, with the best Zagorski Štrukli in town (a local dish made with curd cheese, cream and pastry). Otherwise, the menu mainly covers French classic recipes: from Quiche Lorraine to Boeuf Bourgignon, and superb desserts such as mousse au chocolat and tarte aux pommes. It’s a great place to go for a luscious light lunch or to breakfast in style. You can now buy the famous Štrukli frozen to take home for just 20kn. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (60-175kn). PAB International Gardens J-2, Jakova Gotovca 1, tel. 466 44 01. This restaurant is definitely stylish and not overly priced. It has a pleasant ambience with a terrific terrace that is shared with the Core café. The food is excellent, a great wine list is offered plus homemade bread. The service is slightly lacking but, overall, the Gardens will still pique your curiosity. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (15-120kn). PAGB www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket restAurAnts Lobby Food & Mood I-3, Ivana Lučića 2A (Eurotower), tel. 639 69 50, fax 639 69 55, lobby@lobby.hr, www. lobby.hr. If you’re expecting cracked-leather chairs and a scratched coffee table covered in old magazines, the glasstube entry across a rock garden might be a bit of a shock. Lobby is actually a café bar and restaurant, with a weekday lunch buffet for those in a hurry. There are dishes like steak with truffle sauce, but also a few offerings for vegetarians and for children. Just a warning - in the café, even though there’s a sandwich menu on each table, on weekends your ham sandwich may come wrapped in cellophane and lack one of its ingredients. Call ahead to park in the garage on site. Otherwise, try your luck with on-street parking or head for the garage at the Hotel International. Lunch buffet 11:00-15:00 (Mon-Fri). QOpen 08:00:24:00. Closed Sun. PA 94 34, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70-135kn). PAB Marcellino B-1, Jurjevska 71, tel. 467 71 11, fax 467 74 44, info@restoran-marcellino.com. A Mediterranean offering, your meal is undeniably fresh and sublime in flavour... it’s also miniature and very expensive. If you want to experience fine cuisine, it’s worth shelling out for - many consider Marcellino the crème de la menthe of the city, as Del Boy would say. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50-200kn). PAL Sorriso D-3, Boškovićeva 11, tel. 487 63 92, fax 487 63 93, ristorante.sorriso@inet.hr, www.sorriso.hr. This elegant restaurant in a city centre brick cellar has an chef who conjures up amazing things using Italian and French cuisine as the building blocks of food, life etc. Well regarded by foodies, it’s a place to impress - and on the expensive side! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (135-270kn). PAG Zinfandels C-4, Mihanovićeva 1 ( Hotel The Regent Esplanade), tel. 456 66 66, www.regenthotels.com. Belgian chef Marc Fontenelle, formerly of the Marriott Aurora Moscow, heads up Zagreb’s first fusion restaurant. Zinfandels, named after California’s most famous wine grape (believed to have originated on the Croatian Adriatic), specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food highlighted with Oriental flavours, using the best of gourmet Croatian produce to create imaginative dishes with a regional heart. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (70-210kn). PAB 37 Mano I-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. 466 94 32, fax 466 Italian Agava C-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. 482 98 26, info@ restaurant-agava.hr, w w w.restaurant-agava.hr. Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30-120kn). AGB Boban C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. 481 15 49, fax 492 16 80, www.boban.hr. Locals flock to it in hordes as do international dudes. The reason? Its location in the centre of the centre and an ambiance of unadulterated fun. Your meal is nothing to write home about, yet somehow satisfying. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30-60 kn). PAG www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2008 38 restAurAnts jadera.hr, www.jadera.hr. A little gem tucked in the green neighbourhood of Vrbik. Jadera’s strong point is the wide choice of ultra-fresh fish and real Dalmatian style cooking. Clean, sweet and unpretentious, we heartily recommend you try - but do book in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30-240kn). PA Korčula C-2, Nikola Tesle 17, tel. 487 21 59, fax 481 13 31, www.restoran-korcula.hr. Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to have to go far to do it, this is your place. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30-98kn). PAG Ribarski brevijar C-1, Kaptol 27/I, tel. 482 99 99, fax 481 21 89, info@ribarski-brevijar.hr, www.ribarskibrevijar.hr. A comfortable, modern cellar owned by a family of fish merchants, guaranteeing a great selection of Adriatic fish prepared in traditional Dalmatian style, alongside interesting asides such as cod mousse and cream of scampi soup with saffron. Friendly staff and reasonable prices. (55-120kn) QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PAL restAurAnts Jadera I-4, Zeleni trg 4, Vrbik, tel. 605 52 50, jadera@ 39 one of the most fun interiors in town, the menu is almost startling in its breadth. A great option if you`re staying at the Sheraton. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30-70 kn). PAG Fellini D-2, Savska 90, tel. 617 75 45, fellini@fellini. hr, www.fellini.hr. A pale yellow friend, you needn’t bring your largest pail of cash to enjoy a meal here.Tablecloths of checked red and white, a great wine list and location makes it a pleasing experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 75kn). PAB Rossini D-2, Vlaška 55, tel. 455 10 60, fax 455 28 28, rossini@korum.hr, www.korum.hr/Rossini/Rossini. htm. The most upmarket Italian establishment in town, its chef obviously knows a thing or two about that beloved boot-shaped country. Dress to impress - this place certainly helps your cause on a date. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 115Kn). PAG Canzona E-3, Ivana Šveara 9, tel. 461 77 77. Boasting Seafood Bota Šare I-2, Nova Ves 5, tel. 466 80 39, www. bota-sare.hr. With sister restaurants in Mali Ston and Split, this seafood restaurant is relatively new in Zagreb.The rich seafood menu will make your mouth water and your pockets infinitely lighter.A cute interior consisting of whitewashed ceilings, a rustic interior filled with coastal bric-a-brac emphasis the charm of the seaside. A great many wines to chose. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (80 500kn). A Gašpar I-2, Nova Ves 4, tel. 466 69 99, fax 466 68 25, restoran.baltazar@zg.t-com.hr, www.restoran-baltazar. com. From the same stable as Baltazar, and with the same high standards and an interior styled like a luxury liner in polished wood. Gašpar specialises in seafood, and the knowledgeable staff will direct you to the best of the day’s catch, cooked with inspiration. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (250-500kn). PAG Pizza Flora I-4, Cvjetna cesta 15, tel. 619 52 52, www. klopa.hr. Pop into the neighbourhood for a light, tasty and delectable pizza. With satisfying portions and the freshest of ingredients, choose from 21 different pizzas ranging from 24 to 35kn, otherwise try the generous sized salads. There’s outdoor seating and the spacious interior is surprisingly refreshing and bright. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (25-35kn). PNGBS Karijola A-4, Kranjčevićeva 16a, tel. 366 70 44. At last! Pizza with real smoked ham instead of the usual flabby nonsense, and a thin crispy base baked in a clay oven. This unique little pizzeria is already a big hit. They don’t take bookings, so be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (38-55kn). PNGB Mangiare C-2, Tkalčićeva 29, tel. 482 81 73. A gem. Authentic thin stone baked pizza crusts, a fantastic selection of the highest quality toppings, perfect flavours, incredibly huge fresh salads and tiny prices… this little pizzeria is sure to win many devoted hearts. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (30-50kn). PNB Strossmayer J-4, Bednjanska 14, tel. 617 06 07. A new location just behind Avenija Grada Vukovara, near Lisinski and the main railway station. A good-looking place, nice and light and modern, perfect for a working lunch. Also a pasta, big salads and a grill menu. Delivery. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (23-33kn). NGB Šestine D-2, Vlaška 42, tel. 481 42 94. An elegant take on classic trattoria style, this new pizzeria also offers great pasta dishes and risottos, plus a great sweet menu including tiramisu, cheesecake, and the Hole in One special - it’s owned by the same folks, and is almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (25-75kn). AGS Vegetarian 100% Liquid Health C-1, Tkalčićeva 5, tel. 091 577 65 07/ 482 88 86, senka.sestan@100posto.hr. The taste of fresh fruit and vegetable juices is right here. Look no further as it prides itself on a light menu: tasty vegetable spring rolls, freshly made soups and sushi. The wide selection of healthy food makes this bar a must see, must try. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNG Nova B-2, Ilica 72/I, tel. 481 00 59, fax 484 71 17, www.biovega.hr. Nova now offers an exquisitely relaxing ambience in which to enjoy their inspired and ultra-healthy macrobiotic vegan cuisine. Dishes are bursting with both vitamins and flavour, and come in man-sized portions definitely not rabbit-food! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (35-95kn). PAG Pyr C-2, Teslina 13/1 (in the courtyard), tel. 487 22 44, info@pyr-centar.com, www.pyr-centar.com. Take pleasure in the specialties of macrobiotic cuisine, Monday to Saturday from 10-22. Everyday you can find on offer an entire meal made according to the principles of healthy food. In order to dine here you must be a member of the club. A yearly membership comes at an acceptable 100kn and includes one meal with dessert. The motto here is to feel at home. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Vegehop E-2, Vlaška 79 (in the courtyard), tel. / 091 349 07 10, info@vegehop.hr, www.vegehop.hr. Whether you’re abstaining from meat for religious, ethical or health reasons, or if you’ve just had one čevapi too many. The average omnivore should feel satisfied with the number of vegetarian dishes on the menu; the daily menu is likely to fill you more than you could imagine. It’s tricky to find the place in the back of a courtyard, but helpful delivery is available to addresses north of the Sava. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. AGS June - July 2008 Hungry for more? Just click! www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket 40 CAFés Alternately referred to as the favourite national pastime, café hopping here is a truly delightful endeavour. Umbrella lined patios line the streets, and it’s often hard to tell where one ends and another begins. We’re here to clarify the situation for you. Babbar C-2, Petrinjska 7. It may rock Thursdays to Saturdays when a DJ plays hip hop and house music, but early in the week it’s a friendly, pleasant place to quench your thirst. You’ll find it just a couple blocks south of the main square. QOpen 07:00 - 11:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PJ Baredo C-2, Varšavska 5a, tel./fax 487 28 89. Sitting around the back of the Europa cinema in the centre of town is this huge space. It consists of two floors of tables ready to host your sojourn with a fairly decent cup of coffee. This is a hub of hip Zagreb, so keep your fingers either tapping or inching ever closer to the heat of the pulse. Come here to buy tickets for gigs and clubs also. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PGB Booksa D-2, Martićeva 14b, tel. 461 61 24, fax 461 61 23, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr. Booksa is the meeting place of a literary association started up by three young women writers. As well as coffee and tea, you can find out about readings and workshops, including for kids. The atmosphere in the café is laid back and the vision is farreaching. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. AG Charlie C-2, Gajeva 4, tel. 481 10 39. Famous for the way it draws dudes looking to look their hottest, and we’re talking about the famous and most glamorous here people. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGB Cica C-1, Tkalčićeva 8. We heard say that come evenings there’s some fun to be had here, and we found out why. This comfy,little café has a fantastic selection of artisan rakijas. Party fuel Balkan style, in other words… Great music (alternative vibe) and a relaxed crowd. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Čvenk C-1, Radićeva 23, tel. 485 16 75. This street-side café is interesting for one reason: its cobbled street side patio is somehow exceeded by the coolness of its rich golden brown interior, and warrants a visit and at least an hour’s worth of conversation. Motown is the music of choice, causing you to ask yourself if things could get any better. QOpen 08:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. NGB Eli’s A-2, Ilica 63, tel. 091 527 99 90, fax 370 50 50, nik@eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. The staff, graduates from the Universita del Caffé di Trieste, can whip up specials such as espresso Romano with grated lemon rind - great for hangovers. Dinky, trendy - DVD rental out back. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PNG Escobar D-2, Iblerov trg bb, tel. 461 44 88. Those in search of the elusive perfect coffee bean should look no further. Sip, suck, munch and crunch on all things coffee in an authentically recreated coffee house, circa 1843. Just careful you don’t trip on the waiter’s grin when you walk through Ambassador Escobar’s por tico. Fantastic hot chocolate imported from New York. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PN Flores C-2, Frane Petrića 1, tel. 481 92 72, fax 481 92 73. Modern and minimalist Flores is, appropriately enough, close to Flower Square, nest of the queen bee of café society. A touch pricey, but there is a nice selection of sandwiches and cakes on the menu, plus wines and champagne. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNG to the Croatian National Theatre, some kind of artistic sensibility was passed down to this cafe. We think you’ll find it an extremely satisfying expanse. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PNG In spe caffe A-2, Ilica 209, tel. 098 664 41 02. The newest café in town and get in early as it’s hard to find a seat for that morning coffee. With great staff and a fine interior you’re guaranteed to enjoy your time here no matter what time of day you visit. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNB K&K C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. 481 35 58. Aspiring artists ahoy: this is your new place to get the brain juices flowing, the 14,357,689 pictures framed on the wall moving you into your own personal renaissance. Just off the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PNB Kolding C-2/3, Berislavićeva 8, tel. 487 24 88/ 485 20 48, fax 487 24 86, kolding@zg.t-com.hr, www.kolding. hr. One of the best cups of coffee in Zagreb. The muraled walls will trick you into believing you are in Tokyo if you’re not careful. This recently renovated outdoors-indoors glass box of a café is the perfect place to hole up on a winter’s day, waiting for the café terraces to reopen in spring. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PNGB La Traviata C-1, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol). A debu tante on th e st ylish café scene, par ticularl y recommended as a place to enjoy an excellent bottle of fine Croatian wine, or, if you’re feeling frisky, a bottle of Moët and Chandon champagne. Nicely furnished inside in a light, modern mood, the terrace overlooking the waterfall at the back of the shopping centre is a pleasant place to while away a warm evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. A MK (Krolo) C-2, Radićeva 7, tel. 483 09 80. Great hangout of bums, punks and drunks, most of whom work in the media, it has outside seating in the lovely old Radićeva street. Look at the knjiga žalbe (“Complaints Book”) above the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. NB Mocca C-2, Ilica 1a, tel. 481 28 39. From the exquisite upstairs seating you’re provided a generous shot of the centre’s goings-on and if you lean towards the voyeur side of the sexual equation your overhead view of the passers-by couldn’t get any more enjoyable. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB Tolkien’s C-1, Vranicanijeva 8, tel. 485 20 50, www. fantasy.hr. In the Gornji grad region, it sits in the very southwest corner. Chivalry and mysticism were themes of Tolkien’s works and they find their way into the kava here, for it is full bodied - you’ll be having strange visions in no time. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB Vimpi C-2, Miškecov prolaz 3, tel. 481 92 30. Not wimpy at all. You’ll be thrilled with the music selection of classic rock and roll and blues and then the dark wooden interior that most nearly suggests western saloon (a stretch, we admit). This is a great place to hangout after work and take in a pleasant conversation with friends. Just behind Cinema Europa so it’s great just before or after a movie. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB Zrin C-2/3, Berislavićeva 3, tel. 487 27 38. Zrin is a classy and quiet underground locale to share a drink and conversation in. The art is antique in nature, and the colour scheme is a soft brown and cream combination, making for a very relaxed feeling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B CAFés Gavella B-2, Frankopanska 8, tel. 484 85 53. Near 41 www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 42 nigHtliFe Alternative 44, gk-jabuka@zg.t-com.hr. If you pluck up the courage to edge your way past the meaty bouncers, you’ll find the last bastion of unadulterated rock music in Zagreb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro-pop. QOpen closed, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 02:00. PEN Kset B-4, Unska 3, tel. 612 97 58, www.kset.org. On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry.The mood lighting is the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their worship of this place. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E Purgeraj D-1, Park Ribnjak 1, tel./fax 482 92 53, purgeraj@purgeraj.hr, www.purgeraj.hr. If you happen to be strolling through Park Ribnjak at night, you’re sure to come across several groups of people chilling out on benches or roaming through the park. Follow some of those folks (and the sounds of music filling the night air) to Purgeraj, a popular night-spot for students and young people who come to pack the large bar area and dancefloor to hear a diverse range of sounds, from rock to jazz, funk to blues. Just be sure to keep an eye out for the overly aggressive bouncers. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PEB Route 66 J-3, Paromlinska 47, tel. 611 87 37. This unpretentious roadhouse bar is just behind the National University Library. Along with cheap suds, coffees and pool, you can catch live music every night except Mondays. Gigs start at 9, free entry. The best Croatian beer (Velebitsko) is well cheap, and there’s an ace old time jukebox full of raaawk! Yeaeah! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 01:00. EB Runa C-1, Opatička 5, tel. 092 100 34 77 / 091 948 99 76, www.runa.hr. Don’t let the chains suspended from the ceiling make you nervous. Runa’s a place where even a square can feel welcome, especially with the help of its fine selection of domestic and international beers. If the conversation lags, just lean back, close your eyes and tap your toes along with the grind core, death metal, black metal, thrash metal, heavy metal, nu metal, ambient, goth, dark-electro, and industrial goth music blasting from the juke box, or play a little fussball on the table in the corner. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. J Spunk I-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice bb, tel. 615 15 28, pruga1@gmail.com. Don’t be put off by the dodgy name emblazoned in neon blue letters on the front. Outside the National University Library, it’s a friendly, studenty hangout where people come to hear good music (mostly rock) and live bands. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 24:00. PEB nigHtliFe the airplane theme isn’t overstated. After a few drinks, the revolving spotlight might suggest a control tower beacon, and the music is loud enough to drown out a 737. Still, it’s a lot more chic than the passenger lounge at Gate 2. Parking. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. P Vertigo F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a (Hotel Antunović), tel. 204 18 12, www.vertigo-bar.com. It’s not you -the room really IS spinning. The top-floor lounge might be the place to retire for some quiet conversation while Zagreb seems to rotate around you. Or are you rotating around it? Don’t think too hard about it, just enjoy the view. You’ll pay a lot for your pivo, but it’s worth it. Downstairs the beat is thumping, with house music Wednesdays and Fridays and R&B and hip-hop on Saturdays. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PAULG 43 Jabuka H-2, Jabukovac 28, tel. 483 43 97, fax 244 19 Clubs Aquarius H-5, Mateja Ljubeka bb, tel./fax 364 02 31, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius.hr. This is the only discoteque on Lake Jarun! Aquarius is known for having a good time. It offers many shows and concerts, with a large variety of music for all kinds of people. Friday nights is Blackout Lounge, giving you the best in hip hop, r&b, and rap! It gives you the true meaning of ‘in da club’! Great house music with an older croud! This disco also offers you ‘Kontrapunkt’, that is a night of broken beats, future jazz, nu soul, and fusion! What else to say but, enjoy!! Q Caffe bar - 09:00-21:00 (Mon - Thr), Night Club - 22:00-06:00 (Fri and Sat). PENGB Boogaloo I-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, tel. 631 30 22/ 095 631 30 23, fax 631 30 21, info@boogaloo.hr, www.boogaloo.hr. A large space hosting an equally large assortment of entertainment options, from rock bands to salsa nights to dance DJs, Boogalo is a recently-renovated space that holds great promise out in Trnje. The club has two main areas: one, a large concert hall with limited seating in the back of the room; and two, an adjoining chill-out room that has tables, couches and a bar of its own. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. NB Gjuro II J-2, Medveščak 2, tel. 468 33 67/ 091 462 92 26, www.g juro2.hr. This club has something for you almost every day of the week. Start your weekend early with Tuesday night. ‘Art & Heart’ is a nice and quiet night to go have a drink and not worry about loud music! Wednesday night its ‘R & B Confusion’ so back that thing up in g juro. ‘More than a party...Greatest of 80’s’ Thursday nights, older crowd, 24 and up loving the music of their generation. If you like some funk, r&b, soul, and other great urban beats then ‘Gorgeous Fridays’ are for you. If that’s not enough they bring you ‘Metropolitan Night’ every Saturday. With the best in pop, r&b, and commercial house, what else can you do but, DANCE!! QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. No. 1 I-2, Nova Ves 2, tel. 466 61 89. Small and very colourful, it boasts a crowd of regulars that are of average size and very colourful. Music pumps and grins widen as the evening wears on, though keep in mind it’s on the exclusive side: only card-carrying VIPs are allowed entry after 23:00. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00. Ritz Cabaret C-2, Petrinjska 4, tel. 099 660 71 82/ 091 612 12 03, info@ritz.hr, www.ritz.hr. The legendary Ritz Club on Petrinjska Street 4 has been revamped into a stylish, classy and exclusive club that will meet your highest expectations. Cabaret nights are on Mondays and Tuesdays and then it turns into a club throughout the reminder of the week. QOpen . Closed Sun. Caffe Bar - Open 09:00-22:00, Closed Sun. Night Club - Open 22:00-06:00. Closed Mon, Thu, Sun. PA 53; 369 16 01, fax 363 04 34, info@thebest.hr, www. thebest.hr. The best is a great big discoteque right across the way from the dorm rooms!! Academy nights are usually Thursdays and Fridays, with popular Croatian singers. But, on Saturdays it happy house, for happy people!Body and Soul every Saturday night giving you great resident djs and world famous djs. Shapeshifters, Faithless, Ian Pooley, Dj MCA, Paolo Barbato and the list goes on and on! This disco has 3 big bars, dancers, a great light show, and a big dance floor! What more can you ask for!! QOpen closed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. PEN Tvornica J-3, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. 777 86 73, info@ tvornica-kulture.hr, www.tvornica-kulture.hr. Great multimedia venue hosting anything from quality live gigs (from rock via gypsy to electronica), plus fashion shows, screenings and even discount sales of shoes and clothes by day! Check out their website to see what’s going on. QOpen 08:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAEX The Best H-4, Jarunska 5, tel. 301 19 43/ 301 19 Bars 20 72, fax 400 20 71, bulldog@zg.primatel.hr, www. bulldog-zagreb.com. When this went to print, Papa Bulldog was closed, but thankfully his full-figured daughter Bulldog XL next door is still jerking the capuccino fluff for the Bogovićeva trendies. Even better, XL has matured into a fully rounded wine bar - definitely worth an evening’s intense exploration. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. GB Fly!bar K-3, Vukovarska 284, tel. 666 13 13/ 091 566 67 78, fly@flybar.hr, www.flybar.hr. With a few silhouettes of prop planes and a chrome model hanging overhead, “stewardesses” and epaulet-bedecked wait staff, Bulldog XL C-2, Bogovićeva 6, tel. 400 20 70/ 400 Hangin’ out Funk C-2, Tkalčićeva 52, tel. 098 67 23 38, www. funkclub.hr. Two level enter tainment: in action down below are jazz on Sundays and the Croatian pop scene on Thursdays, while the café crowd does its sipping at street level watching the ultra-busy Tkalciceva pass by. A tunnel-like feel and weird chairs give the place an unusual atmosphere, while great orange-hazelnut coffee soothes your soul. And if that’s not enough, muscle your way to the far side to see the city’s newest gallery space. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. EB Krivi put B-4, Runjaninova 3. A staple for college students, this bar wedged behind the Zagreb Botanical Gardens is a smoke filled, cheap swill serving, gem of a watering hole. With indoor bench seating and a terrace to boot, this haven of the alternative scene stays open till about 2 (give or take a half hour) every morning. Good tunes on the sound system too! Latina A-4, Savska 23a, tel. 484 37 75. ‘Hot blooded, check it and see...’ screams Latina. If you like hot sauce, Taco Bell and generally run to the tequila and rum side of the liquor equation this place will cuss you out with pure passion deliciously. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PNGB Londoner Veslački otok - Jarun, tel. 091 262 00 63. Big and red as a London bus, there’s massive, comfy cane furniture, plus seating right on the fine pebble beach. Parties and promotions - great fun! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. Maraschino C-2, Margaretska 1, tel. 481 26 12. This favourite city haunt just gets better and better! Recently renovated, including a new bar and the addition of a spacious and well designed lower level, this super cool bar can now accommodate the massive crowds of the attractive mid 20-30’s crowd, that pack in on the weekends to get their fix of super-delish drinks and live DJ music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. People’s J-3, Hektorovićeva 2, tel. 604 05 21, fax 604 05 23, admiral.adriatic@zg.t-com.hr, www.peoples.hr. A night out at this slick lounge and restaurant can move in several distinct stages. First, a selection from the quality menu offering Italian, Mediterannean and Asian Fusion. Then, a move to the lounge for a selection from the immense champagne and wine list. Then, as the night progresses, a move to the huge bar in the center of the room as the place transforms into a happening night bar. All in all, a cool place to hang out in Zagreb. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 03:00. PAGK Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 44 nigHtliFe is superb, and the lower and upper level seating makes it a popular lunch hangout. Marable and mirrors are featured. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. Piranha H-5, Jarunsko jezero bb, tel. 091 462 92 34/ 091 785 39 38, info@piranha.hr, www.piranha.hr. One of the most popular places to go on Jarun! Giving you ‘R&B Confusion’ night, Hip Hop and R&B, cocktails and special prices for drinks. Starts at 22 so don’t be late. Fridays and Saturdays are the nights for big time dancing at Piranha! Playing only the most popular music of this time grab a nice tasty cocktail and shake what your mama gave you on the dance floor! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00. PB Sedmica A-2, Kačićeva 7a. This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain to stir a literary bone in your body, too. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Škola C-2, Bogovićeva 7/2, tel. 482 81 96/ 482 89 03, fax 482 89 04, skola@skolaloungebar.com, www. skolaloungebar.com. Styled like a futuristic airport from the 1960s, everything is icy white - including the air conditioning. The music comes perfectly chilled too. Imaginative cocktails include champagne with gold in it for those high-roller moments, while snacks are a little less pricey. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PAB wHAt to see Pubs hopdevil.hr. If you’re a lover of beer, the mish-mash, hit and miss period style of this intended cool bar won’t concern you too much, after all, you’re here to focus on the beer…. an exciting 101 different beers in total….brown, red, amber, abbey, trappist, lambic wild and golden strong ales ranging from 18-90kunes. Of course, if beer is not your poison, there are many other drinks you can sip on whilst listening to an impressive range of music and in case you get the munchies, Hop devil works alongside the eatery next door Mezzo & Mezzo, in serving you a variety of pizza, pasta and salads at fair prices. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PAEG Movie Pub I-4, Savska 141, tel. 605 50 45, fax 600 36 01, info@the-movie-pub.com, www.the-movie-pub.com. Do you like beer? Tuborg, Pan, Carlsberg, Guinness, Kilkeney, Bellevue, Kriek, Beck’s, Heineken, Leffe, Harp, Hoegarden, Ozujsko and Stella. That’s the list of beers that this place has waiting for you, plus two additions that make a night out at Movie Pub particularly inviting: the ‘Karaoke King Show’ on Thursday nights and, just in case a night of drinking and singing makes the trip home an impossibility, The Movie Hotel, complete with 20 rooms right above the pub. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PAE 45 Pif C-2, Preradovićeva 4. Its location just off Flower square Hop Devil D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. 457 24 86, www. Tourist information C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelacica 11, tel. 481 40 51, 481 40 52, 481 40 54, fax 481 40 56, info@zagreb-touristinfo. hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00,Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Sell maps, guide books and in general are a pleasantly helpful bunch. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. D-4, Glavni kolodvor (train station) QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. C-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. 48 73 665, fax 48 73 670, www.tzzz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. expansion, which is why walking with one foot in the sewer is neither strange nor unfamiliar during peak human rush hours when, at any given moment, sharp-tipped brollies, hip-hugging couples, rowdy chimney sweepers and speeding bicycles all crowd onto the baguette-like width of Ilica’s sidewalk. Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate) C-1, Kamenita bb. This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji Grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja (The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary) C-1, Essential 5, tel./fax 485 16 11. The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Dolac (Market Dolac) C-2, Dolac bb. Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac. Ilica Ilica bb. The seemingly endless length of this Oxford St/Madison Ave equivalent has diversified in recent years. You’re guaranteed to find everything you’ve ever wanted and then some. However, diversification does not imply physical Crkva sv. Marka (St Mark’s Church) C-1, Trg svetog Marka Jazz and blues Bacchus C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, 098 32 28 04, 098 92 99 298, www.bacchusjazzbar.net. Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under the bar. QOpen 09:00-24:00. B.P. Club C-2, Nikole Tesle 7, tel. 481 44 44/ 617 00 33, fax 617 00 44, bpclub@bpclub.hr, www.bpclub.hr. Welcome to one of Zagreb’s greatest jazz clubs! This place offers great jazz music every night of the week, right in the centar of Zagreb! A nice place to relax and enjoy your drink with nice jazz music! BP also has lots of concerts with wonderful performers from all over the world! If your thing is jazz music then this is the place to be! So sit down, sip your drink and enjoy! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. NB Jazz Club B-2, Gundulićeva 11/ 098 66 49 48, raefria@ yahoo.com. For a cool and cosy night out, take yourself down to this basement level jazz bar, its big on sound and has a constant program of live bands. Exposed brick and candlelight make for an intimate encounter, so bring your friends or lovers. Closed on Sundays it can, however, be rented out for private parties and it’s also open to public photographic exhibitions. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. ENG Sax! D-3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. 487 28 36, klub@saxzg.hr, www.sax-zg.hr. This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show -this place is a can’t miss. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Casino Casino City B/C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, (The Regent Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel. 450 10 00, fax 457 30 66, zlatko@casino-city.t-com.hr. Centrally located in the beautifully refurbished Hotel The Regent Esplanade, a comfortable club casino with five roulette tables, five card tables, slot machines and a VIP area for those more discreet gambling moments. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PA Casino Fortuna E-2, Vlaška 9, tel. 481 28 60/ 482 51 97, fax 482 51 97, Casino.fortuna@lutrija. hr, www.lutrija.hr. Fancy winning big? Well…drop into this fairly new casino as it has a lot to offer. There are 4 floors to keep you entertained for hours, 24 hours to be precise, with live bingo, keno, live betting, 130 automat poker machines and a variety of tables including the all famous roulette, black jack, caribbean poker and texas hold’em. Catch up with friends in the café/bar area. Enjoy a meal in the sunny restaurant that works from 10.00-02.00. Private functions can also be organised to suit your needs. With an exciting future array of events planned, including Miss Princess Fortuna and after-work parties, this is one hot spot in town to keep track of. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAX Grand Casino D-3, Draškovićeva 43 (Hotel Sheraton), tel./fax 457 60 90. Roll up to the newly revamped and best looking casino in town where anyone can win to Lady Luck. Follow your way to the flashing lights and beeping tones of the lower level where 80 automat (or use this word: poker) machines and 2 electronic roulettes await. But, all the action’s upstairs where an array of tables such as, blackjack, roulette, stud poker stand by with brightly coloured chips which beckon you to try your luck. Downstairs open 24 hours, upstairs from 8pm-4pm. QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. PA Kaptol 31, tel. 481 47 27. A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tartars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. It continues to this day. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30. Maksimirski park i Zološki vrt (Maksimir Park & the City Zoo) K-1/2, Maksimirirski perivoj bb. A per fect half-day ou ting for love birds, families, the four-leg ged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovacka stop. The entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. Home to the city zoo! Lost the beat? www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 46 wHAt to see HDLU (Croatian Association of Arists) E-3, Trg žrtava fašizma bb, tel. 461 18 18, fax 457 68 31, hdlu@ hdlu.hr, www.hdlu.hr. Gallery of Croatian contemporary culture. Entry 10-15Kn. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Moderna galerija (Modern Gallery) B/C-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel./fax 492 23 68, tel. 492 23 71, moderna-galerija@zg.t-com.hr. It’s been reconstructed and given a permanent exhibition called “200 Years of Croatian Art” - that’s just the modern part, silly! After these improvements, this is one of the must-sees for art lovers in our fair capital. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. N. Š. Zrinjskog 11, tel. 489 51 11, fax 481 99 79, sgallery@hazu.hr, http://www.mdc.hr/strossmayer/. Bishop Strossmayer was a master of many things, that’s indisputable. When he wasn’t out mastering these things he was donating works and much of it is housed here. The overhead lighting kicks your enjoyment of the oil paintings into overdrive. Masters featured: Bruegel, Carpeaux, Benković and Proudhon to name but a few. Entry 5-10Kn. Open: Wed - Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Tue 10:00-13:00, 17:00 - 19:00.Mon. cls. Umjetnički paviljon (Art Pavilion) C-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 484 10 70, fax 484 10 80, info@ umjetnicki-paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on Trg Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Entry 10-20Kn, free on Mondays. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. wHAt to see Museums 19, tel. 487 30 00/ 480 00 00, fax 487 31 02, amz@ amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical musings often accompany explanations of the materials, moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this earth. Entry 10 - 30kn. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Etnografski muzej (Ethnographic Museum) D-3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. 482 62 20, fax 482 62 21, emz@ etnografski-muzej.hr, www.etnografski-muzej.hr. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Entry: 10 - 15kn. Free entry Thu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Medvedgradska 2, tel. 468 60 50, fax 468 60 52, gliptoteka-hazu@zg.t-com.hr, www.mdc.hr/gliptoteka. This sculpture centre just north of Kaptol Centre kicks some serious tush. Various genres of sculpture come together to create pleasingly bizarre themes. Entry: 5 -10kn. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. B-3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. 485 57 16, fax 485 58 25, hrskolski.muzej@hrskolski-muzej.hr, www.hrskolskimuzej.hr. Trace the development of the school system this in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. 47 Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu (Archaeological Museum in Zagreb) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog Strossmayerova galerija starih majstora (The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters) C-3, Trg Gliptoteka Ha zu (The Glyptotheque of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts) I-2, Hrvatski školski muzej (Croatian School Museum) Mirogoj Cemetery J-1, Mirogoj bb. Croats in the capitol city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to the cemetery confirms this immediately. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Getting There Bus N°106 from Katedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 8Kn. You can also take tram N°14 from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića east (Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda). Mirogoj, the central Zagreb cemetery, situated on the slopes of Medvednica, is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. However, Mirogoj is not only the burial place but also a beautiful park and an open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality had bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bolle designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street) C-1, Tkalčićeva. You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to understand is very unique too! C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića (Ban Josip Jelačić Sqare) Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog (N.Š.Zrinjskog Square) C-2/3, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog. The combination of the outdoors gazebo, expertly manicured lawn, flowers, enormous trees, fountains and statues make this sucker a brilliant place to take a load off. This is the park closest to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića and you’ll be thrilled to see that its also a make-out point: local lovers show-off their most complex and passionate manoeuvres free of charge in this baby. Galleries C-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 485 21 17, fax 485 21 16, press@galerijaklovic.hr, www.galerijaklovic.hr. Perhaps the most impressive gallery and art display house, you’ll find it in Gornji Grad. The travelling artwork it houses is very impressive, with many of the most famous exhibits the world over making a short stop here. Admission: 20 kn adults, 10 kn children’s. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Galerija Klovićevi dvori (Klovićevi dvori Gallery)  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 Zagreb In Your Pocket  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 June - July 2008 48 wHAt to see Money transfer Western Union D-4, Branimirova 4 and other location of Croatian post, tel. 483 91 66. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. MAil & PHones T-mobile C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. 498 47 60, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 , www.tele2.com.hr. Pre-paid cards can be bought at most of the supermarkets, petrol stations, post offices and kiosks. VIP C-3, Ljudevita Gaja 2b, tel. 091 77 00, fax 481 54 82, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 49 Internet cafés Almost all the hotels in Zagreb have business services, which in this exciting day and age means fax, internet and copymachine city! If your hotel hasn’t yet joined us in the 21st century, these handy locations come with everything but the cubicles (you must be missing them by now): Cyber Funk Juice & Smoothie Internet cafe, Masarkyova 26 (in the court yard) tel. 639 90 70 An internet café that offers a light menu whilst you surf the web. 1 minute costs 0.25 lipa, if you purchase something to nibble then you get 15 minutes of free internet use. Printing service is available with one page costing 0.45lipa, scanning is 1.90kn. QOpen 08:00-22:00. Closed Sun. Post Letter delivery: tel. 498 17 26 / Package Delivery: tel. 498 15 64 / Post Information: tel. 060 12 51 25 / General Information (post and package): tel. 98 32 Autobusni kolodvor ( Bus Station) J-3/4, Avenija Marina Držića bb, tel. 611 90 77. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Central Post Office C/D-2, Jurišićeva 13, tel. 481 10 90. Just east of the Trg bana Jelačića on Jurišićeva. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Post office D-4, Branimirova 4, tel. 498 13 00. Send letters that are less than 5g in lines 9 - 11. Faxes can be sent from the first floor: 4kn to Croatia, 15Kn to Europe, 22Kn to USA/Can and 22Kn to Australia. Domestic and International phone calls can be made from the first floor. Simply get a card from the receptionist, use the phone, and then pay for your time. Send packages 3kg and less on the ground floor from the package room (east side of building). Packages larger than 3kg are sent from the HPT office 50m east of the Post entrance on Branimirova. Open 07:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Packaging material can also be purchased here. 483 45 51, fax 483 45 53, hma@hazu.hr, www.hazu. hr/hrvatski_muzej_arhitekture.html. The museum of architecture is perfect for those who can read Croatian and find pictures of buildings in cities other than Zagreb fascinating. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. 485 19 11, fax 485 21 25, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu. org. Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings or so and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Entry: 5-10 kn QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Hrvatski muzej arhitekture (Croatian Museum of Architecture) C-2/3, Gorana Kovačića 37, tel. Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti (The Croatian Museum of Naive Art) C-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Entry 10 - 20kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. (entrance on Palmotićeva), tel. 491 15 89, HTmuzej@ hpt.hr, www.mdc.hr/ht/hr/. A small display, you will be overjoyed to learn about the workspace of phone operators in the middle 20th century. Entry free. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Muzej Ivan Meštrović (Meštrović Atelier) B/C-1, Mletačka 8, tel. 485 11 23, fax 485 11 26, fim@fim. hr, www.mdc.hr/mestrovic. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived in this house at the beginning of the 20th century, and it is here that he completed many of his first works. Entry 20Kn. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Muzej Mimara (The Mimara Museum) B-3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. 482 81 00, fax 482 60 78, mimara@zg.t-com.hr. The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia, much of it Christian in theme. Entry: Adults 40Kn, Students 30kn, Adult groups (20-40 people) 30kn and Student groups (20-40 people) 20kn. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. fax 482 21 18, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinner ware and much more. Ver y ornate and curious. Admission: 30kn adults, groups 20kn/per person and 15-20kn students. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Tehnički muzej (Technical Museum) A-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. 484 40 50, fax 484 35 68, tehnickimuzej@tehnicki-muzej.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/tehnicki. All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Entry 7-10kn. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Muzej hrvatskih telekomunikacija (Museum of Croatian Telecommunications) D-2, Jurišićeva 13 Hr vatski povijesni muzej (Croatian History Museum) B-1, Matoševa 9, tel. 485 19 00, fax 485 19 09, hismus@hismus.hr, www.hismus.hr. While away hours browsing in one of the finest Baroque palaces in the Upper Town. The collection includes over 140,000 artefacts from the cultural and national heritage of Croatia from the Middle Ages to the present day. Entry: 10kn, 5kn kids. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. 00, fax 485 16 44. Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dismembering passers-by. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej (Croatian Natural History Museum) B/C-1, Demetrova 1, tel. 485 17 Iskon Internet- Kic C-2, Petra Preradovića 5/1, tel. 481 17 58, internet-centar@iskon.hr, internetcentar. iskon.hr. Plunk down 15Kn/hr unless you`re a student in which case you only pay 12Kn/hr. Printers and scanners too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. M.a.m.a C-3, Preradovićeva 18, tel. 485 64 00, mi2@ mi2.hr, www.mama.mi2.hr. The alternative vibe that Mama puts out makes it a favourite for locals. Printing, copying, scanning and faxing services. Surf or email mommy for 12kn/ hr. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Sublink Cybercafé C-2, Nikole Tesle 12, tel. 481 99 93, fax 481 99 96, mail@sublink.hr, www.sublink.hr. The electric-blue walls are the first tip, you’ve finally made the jump into the 21st century. 14.7Kn/h, the Sublink is very close to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. Print, copy and scan. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Vip C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 5, tel. 483 00 89, cafe@ vip.hr, www.vip.hr. There are only five computers in the back of the café to work on, but the location in Donji Grad couldn’t make it any easier for you. After checking your email, take a seat at the bar or go outside and choose from the plethora of patio cafés to sit down at. Search and email wildly for 15Kn/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B Wi-fi internet access Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel H-3, Trg Hotel Dubrovnik C-3, Gajeva 1, tel. 486 35 55. Hotel I H-5, Remetinečka cesta 106, tel. 654 22 38. Hotel Sheraton D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. 455 35 35. Hotel Westin A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. 489 20 00. Ho To tower A-4, Savska cesta 32. Lounge bar Škola C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. 482 81 96. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. T-Centar D-2, Iblerov trg 7, tel. 462 16 50. QOpen sportova 9, tel. 365 83 33. Internet service providers 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. T-com D-2, Savska 32, tel. 491 10 00, info@t.ht.hr, www.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VIPnet D-2, Vrtni put 1, tel. 469 10 91 / 091 77 00, office@vipnet.hr, www.vip.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Iskon Internet A-4, Garićgradska 18, tel. 600 07 00/0800 1000, fax 600 07 77, www.iskon.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. T-Mobile store C-2, Trg Petra Preradovića 3, tel. 498 47 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A/B-2, Ilica 13/I, tel. 483 34 83. The museum cherishes the tradition of collecting physical training and sports items. The collection includes thousands of sports photographs and negatives, a large number of sports posters and over 20,000 books on sports. In addition to this there are several thousand medals which Croatian athletes won at various competitions over the last century to date. Although the museum has no permanent exhibition, specialised exhibitions related to current events are organised several times a year. Free entry. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hrvatski sportski muzej (Croatian Sport Museum) Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (23 if you’re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091 or 098. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining 9 digits. Muzej za umjetnost i obr t (Ar ts and Craf ts Museum) B-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. 488 21 11, Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zagreb is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Muzej grada Zagreba (Zagreb City Museum) C-1, Opatička 20, tel. 485 13 61, fax 485 13 59, muzejgrada-zagreb@mgz. hr, w w w..mg z.hr. Wi th th eme music Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 50 getting Around Public transport Buses C-4, Ozaljska 105, tel. 660 04 46 Bus Traffic West/ 660 04 45 Bus Traffic East, www.zet.hr. Bus tickets cost the same as tram tickets and can be purchased in the same places. A list of departure times can be found at all bus stops, marked by blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop for local transport is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. For information about public transport contact ZET. Funicular Railway B-2, Tomićeva bb, tel. 483 39 12, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Quite possibly the shortest furnicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gorni Grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us! QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. Trams - ZET H-3, Ozaljska 105, tel. 365 15 55/, fax 369 41 32, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Trams run from 04:00 - 23:20; night trams are totally unreliable and ill-advised endeavors, yet run from 23:45 - 04:45. Purchase tram tickets at kiosks or post offices for 8kn, from the driver for 10kn or a daily ticket for 25kn. Children under six ride free. Stamp your ticket once you board: an unstamped ticket is as good as no ticket at all. getting Around 51 Taxis Taxi D-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. 660 06 71/radio Taxi 970, fax 669 26 86, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. Taxis should only charge a 19Kn flat fee plus 7Kn/km except on holidays and Sundays and at night when an extra 20% is tacked on to bill.You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels,the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.Open 24 hrs. Start: 19 Kn Drive (1km): 7Kn Waiting: 50Kn/h Luggage: 3Kn Night drive 22:00 - 05:00 : plus 20%. Airport bus Fast and comfortable buses depart daily from the Croatia Airlines terminal at the main bus station to Zagreb Pleso airport. For the schedule see www.plesoprijevoz.hr, or call 633 19 99 for information. The 30 minute journey costs a mere 30kn. Airport Pleso International Airport Pleso bb, tel. 456 22 22/ 626 52 22, fax 456 20 33, www.zagreb-airport.hr. Pleso airport is located 17km from Zagreb and services most major European destinations; however, there are no direct flights to North America. It’s a miniature little guy but clean and very well run, with good information services in its centre, a few ATMs, a number of money exchanges, all kinds of car rental and a few eating and relaxing opportunities. main coach station has just introduced a great new service. Call 060 313 333, and you can reserve your coach tickets and order delivery by courier service. If you’re in Zagreb, order by 3pm, and your tickets are with you by 8pm the same day, otherwise it’s next day delivery. The service costs 20kn for Zagreb addresses, and 40kn for other locations in Zagreb County. Drive In (Drive thru bus service) New concept and advantage - Drive In/Drive Thru service. Purchase bus tickets anywhere without ever having to wait upstairs. Simply drive into the parking lot and follow the directions at pay station near exit. Petrol stations Euro Petrol F/G/H/I-4, Zagrebačka 168, tel. 386 26 62. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Ina A-3, A. M. Držića, tel. 618 47 55, ina@ina. hr, www.ina.hr. Open 24hrs. Also at A-3, Ljubljanska avenija-south, tel.302 00 54; D-1, Langov trg bb, tel.482 85 90; Heinzelova bb, tel.244 14 34. QOpen 06:00 22:00. A Trains kralja Tomislava 12, tel. 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. Zagreb’s main railway station is in the final stages of getting a full facelift, and some other welcome changes are going on in Croatia’s railway network. The website now has a link to the international pages of the German Deutsche Bahn site, where you can search for all local and international services covering Croatia. Croatian Railways have also just bought six ultra-modern tilting trains, which should be able to reach top speeds of 170km/h once vital work on the tracks has (hopefully) been completed sometime this year. This should reduce the journey time from Zagreb to Split, for example, from about 8 hours to less than five hours. Main Railway Station - Glavni kolodvor C-4, Trg Car rental Avis A-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. 062 22 22 26/ 467 61 11, fax 467 61 12, avisdt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Budget D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel./fax 455 49 43, reservations@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Pleso bb, tel. 626 53 33/ 483 64 66, fax 626 54 44, zagreb@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Hertz B-3, Vukotinovićeva 4, tel. 484 67 77, fax 488 30 77, zagreb.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at Airport Zagreb, Pleso bb, tel. 456 26 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A 8 + 1 seats Mobile: +385 91 111 1112, +385 91 190 0000, Tel / Fax: +385 1 2008 160, E-mail: taxi-van@vip.hr, Web: www.taxi-van.hr SMS Tram Avoid the kiosk queues. From now on you can purchase your tram ticket via SMS. Just type ‘ZG’ to the number 8585 and you will receive a reply confirming your purchased ticket and its expiration time. Buses Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. 600 86 07/ 600 86 05, fax 600 86 73, promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr. The Zagreb bus station or Autobusni kolodvor can seem more like a shopping complex from the outside. When facing the station and standing on Avenija Marina Držića walk up the stairs to the left to get to the ticketing offices. Window N°14, the Information centre (Open 24hrs), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Should your queries go unanswered to the left of the ticket window alongside an ATM machine there is a touch screen that can connect you to the bus stations web page, www.akz.hr Coach tickets door-to-door Zagreb’s Domestic flight schedule From Zagreb Days -2-4-612-45-12345-7 12345-7 1-3 - - 612-45-7 12345-7 12345 - - 2345-7 Dep. 06:20 21:20 14:00 22:15 06:15 14:40 21:20 14:00 21:05 Arr. 07:15 22:15 15:55 23:05 07:00 15:25 22:05 14:45 21:45 City DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK PULA PULA SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT ZADAR ZADAR To Zagreb Days 12345 - - -3 - - 612345612345-7 1234567 -2-4 - - 7 12-45-7 12345612345-7 Dep. 06:25 19:50 05:50 16:25 06:15 07:05 19:45 06:45 15:15 Arr. 07:20 20:45 07:30 17:10 07:00 07:50 20:30 07:30 17:10 TAXI VAN 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsable for schedule changes Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 52 getting Around International flight schedule From Zagreb Days 1234567 12345-7 1234567 - - 3 - - 612-45-7 1234567 12345-7 - - 3-5-7 12345-7 12-45-7 -2-45-7 1-3 - - -1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12-45-7 1-34567 -2-45-7 1234567 12345-7 1-34567 -2-4 - - 1234567 - - -4 - - 7 -2 - - -61234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1-34567 -2-45-7 1234567 12345-7 12-45-7 -2-45-7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1-3 - - - - - - -5-Dep. 08:30 06:30 18:20 14:30 14:40 06:30 18:20 14:20 08:00 14:40 17:40 17:50 06:30 07:40 17:55 17:55 14:40 08:05 17:40 06:30 18:20 08:00 14:35 08:30 08:35 09:35 07:40 17:55 07:40 09:10 16:50 08:10 17:40 08:30 08:00 14:40 17:40 18:20 15:30 11:45 14:15 13:05 Arr. 10:30 11:15 23:20 22:20 22:20 10:25 22:00 15:25 10:25 22:35 21:40 21:40 10:00 09:15 19:30 19:30 21:50 12:20 21:55 10:35 21:45 14:00 17:55 13:15 10:00 11:00 14:25 23:45 15:50 10:25 18:05 12:55 22:15 10:35 11:05 17:05 22:00 22:35 16:30 13:10 16:45 15:35 City AMSTERDAM BARCELONA BARCELONA BARI BARI BERLIN BERLIN BOLOGNA BRUSSELS CATANIA COPENHAGEN COPENHAGEN DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT FRANKFURT FRANKFURT GENOA GOTHENBURG GOTHENBURG HAMBURG HAMBURG HELSINKI ISTANBUL LISBON LONDON (LHR) LONDON (LHR) MADRID MADRID MOSCOW MUNICH MUNICH OSLO OSLO PARIS (CDG) PRAG ROME STOCKHOLM STUTTGART VIENNA ZURICH STOCKHOLM STOCKHOLM To Zgareb Days 1234567 12345-7 1234567 12-45 - - -3 - - -12345-1234567 - - 3-5-7 12345-7 12-45-7 1-34567 -2-45-7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12-45-1-34567 -2 - - - - 1234567 1234561-34567 -2-4 - - 1234567 -2 - - - - 1 - - -5-12345-1234567 12345-7 1234567 1234567 12345-7 -2-45-7 -234 - - -2-45-12-45-7 1-34567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1-3 - - - - - - -5-Dep. 11:20 06:15 18:00 14:35 14:35 06:50 19:00 12:35 11:10 14:15 07:25 16:35 19:05 12:40 20:45 20:45 15:00 07:30 07:30 06:45 18:40 08:00 11:00 14:20 11:50 20:00 06:05 18:00 05:40 07:20 15:05 07:05 13:45 11:35 15:30 18:00 07:10 18:55 13:45 11:45 10:45 09:35 Arr. 13:10 10:05 22:25 20:30 20:45 10:05 22:25 13:35 13:20 20:30 11:10 20:25 22:25 14:05 22:05 22:05 20:45 11:10 11:00 10:05 22:25 11:10 13:45 22:05 15:05 23:15 11:25 22:25 10:05 08:30 16:15 11:10 20:25 13:25 20:25 20:30 11:10 22:05 14:45 13:10 13:15 12:05 getting Around Road help (HAK) tel. 987 Domestic train schedule From Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:59 12:38 17:50 06:50 11:20 17:15 06:50 15:22 21:45 22:55 07:20 14:16 22:23 Arr. 11:32 18:04 21:00 10:12 15:11 21:10 12:19 20:45 05:54 06:57 09:20 16:35 00:38 City OSIJEK OSIJEK OSIJEK RIJEKA RIJEKA RIJEKA SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN To Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 05:30 12:25 16:00 05:45 11:20 16:55 07:37 15:02 21:00 22:22 07:41 15:44 20:24 Arr. 09:36 16:54 20:29 09:40 15:14 20:18 13:12 20:31 05:36 06:31 09:43 18:25 22:21 53 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. International bus schedule From Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:30 15:50 14:25 20:00 06:30 15:45 16:00 19:00 06:00 23:00 Arr. 13:00 21:45 17:00 05:00 14:50 23:55 03:30 06:25 11:00 05:50 City BEOGRAD BEOGRAD LJUBLJANA MUNICH SARAJEVO SARAJEVO STUTTGART STUTTGART VIENNA VIENNA To Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 08:10 16:45 07:30 20:30 06:30 12:30 15:00 15:45 17:00 23:59 Arr. 14:05 22:15 10:12 05:00 14:50 20:55 05:00 04:10 23:40 05:00 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. Domestic bus schedule From Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:00 22:30 07:30 12:40 19:00 07:30 15:00 18:00 20:00 07:00 12:00 15:15 21:00 07:30 15:00 21:00 07:15 14:45 21:30 Arr. 18:00 08:15 11:45 16:50 22:50 10:10 17:50 20:40 22:45 12:25 17:10 20:30 02:35 11:00 19:30 00:30 08:35 16:39 23:00 City DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK OSIJEK OSIJEK OSIJEK RIJEKA RIJEKA RIJEKA RIJEKA SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT ZADAR ZADAR ZADAR VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN VARAŽDIN To Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:15 22:00 08:00 14:00 17:30 07:00 15:00 18:00 20:45 07:00 11:30 15:30 21:30 07:30 15:10 20:00 07:10 15:15 20:45 Arr. 17:10 07:00 12:20 18:00 21:20 09:40 18:00 20:40 23:30 12:00 17:10 20:30 04:30 11:00 20:20 23:30 08:55 17:00 22:15 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. International train schedule From Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 6:05 11:10 16:48 7:20 4:59 07:50 13:15 23:40 07:50 13:15 21:05 07:25 13:35 23:40 Arr. 12:16 17:26 22:50 14:37 10:36 10:06 15:39 02:12 16:32 22:30 06:17 13:55 19:55 07:04 City BEOGRAD BEOGRAD BEOGRAD BUDAPEST BUDAPEST LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA MUNICH MUNICH MUNICH VIENNA VIENNA VENICE To Zagreb Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:25 15:45 22:20 15:26 18:37 06:15 14:08 21:45 07:26 11:26 23:45 06:04 16:04 21:40 Arr. 13:03 22:34 05:25 22:21 23:17 08:34 16:32 00:01 16:32 20:03 08:34 12:28 22:32 04:28 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. 1-Monday, 2-Tuesday, 3-Wednesday, 4-Thursday, 5-Friday, 6-Saturday, 7-Sunday. Zagreb In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 sHoPPing 55 Our guess is that you’ll be amazed by all the shopping opportunities that confront you in this town. You can’t go wrong with the whole of the city centre, especially A/C-2, Ilica. Most shops are closed on Sunday. Antiques Agram C-2, Miškecov prolaz 2, tel./fax 487 27 78, agram-antikvarijat@zg.htnet.hr, www.agram-antikviteti. hr. Agram will arouse the antique lover in you. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Antikviteti C-2, Tkalčićeva 34, tel./fax 481 36 13. Delightful pieces and an excellent selection of paintings. Beautifully presented. Working hours: Mon, Wen and Fri from 14:00-20:00, Thu and Thr from 10:00-16:00, Sat from 10:00-15:00, Sun cls. QA Apartman A-2, Ilica 61, tel./fax 484 61 96. Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique stuff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Kaptol C-1, Kaptol 13, tel./fax 481 48 16, tel. 098 27 73 33, galerija.kaptol@zg.htnet.hr, www. galerijakaptol.hr. Extensive variety of antiques. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kerubin C-1, Kamenita 15, tel. 485 16 98. Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds of other stuff. Q Working hours: 10:00-13:00 and 16:00-19:30, Sat from 10:00-13:00, Sun cls. A Miroslav Tischler B-2, Ilica 66, tel. 492 08 58/ 098 234 299, miroslav.tischler@zg.t-com.hr. A lovely little gallery set in a courtyard behind the street, with antiques and art to suit all pockets. The friendly Mr.Tischler specialises in antique pens and lamps, but other delights to be found include decorative tin packaging, toys and corkscrews. A selection of art ranges from posters to pieces by contemporary local artists. Open daily 09:30-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:30-13, Sun closed. Posrednik C-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. 481 35 49. Jewellery, purses, porcelain and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Renomebl C-2, Preradovićeva 14, tel. 485 50 62. These guys will renovate the antique you’ve had in your place and always thought would look nice. Q Working hours: 08:00-12:00 and 16:30-19:30, Sat 07:00-14:00, Sun cls. Rožić antikviteti B-2/3, Medulićeva 8, tel. 484 65 54/ 091 793 06 32, andrea.rozic@zg.htnet.hr. Antique furniture, jewellery, etc. Q Working hours: 09:00-13:00 and 16:30-19:30, Sat from 09:00-13:00, Sun cls. A Books algoritam.hr. This place is where it`s at. A plethora of reading material in a wealth of languages: magazines, books, reference, gifts, etc. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 15:00. Closed Sun. A Jesenski i Turk C-2, Preradovićeva 5, tel. 487 34 58, antikvarijat@jesenski-turk.hr, www.jesenski-turk.hr. Books in a variety of languages. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Ljevak C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 17, tel. 481 29 92, fax 481 29 70, naklada-ljevak@zg.t-com.hr, www. naklada-ljevak.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A Profil Megastore C-2, Bogovićeva 7, tel. 487 73 00, www.megastore.profil.hr; www.profil.hr. Three floors of devilishly tempting books, music, films, games and gifts. Croatian and foreign fiction and non-fiction, titles include excellent travel books. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Algoritam C-2, Gajeva 1, tel. 481 86 72, www. www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2008 56 sHoPPing business direCtorY Croatian Chamber of Economy Croatian Chamber of Economy – Zagreb Chamber, D-3, Draškovićeva 45, tel. 4606 777, fax 4606 803, hgkzg@hgk.hr, www. zg.hgk.hr. Services: Promotion of business of the City of Zagreb and Zagreb County; Economic relations with foreign countries; Business events and meetings; International integration; Economic development; Information. 57 Accountants & Consultants Deloitte K-3, Radnička 80/ VI, tel. 235 19 00, fax 235 19 99, www.deloitte.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst & Young K-4, Milana Sachsa 1, tel. 248 05 55, fax 248 05 56, www.ey.com/hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hauska & Partner E-2, Brešćenskoga 4, tel. 450 02 22, fax 455 72 18, zagreb@hauska.com, www.hauska. com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG I-4, Ivana Lučića 2a, Eurotower, 17th floor, tel. 539 00 00, fax 539 01 11, www.kpmg.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mi-ni D-3, Draškovićeva 66, tel./fax 481 75 24, mirna. cindric@zg.htnet.hr. Tax, legal and investment consulting. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PricewaterhouseCoopers I-4, Alexandera von Humboldta 4, tel. 632 88 88, fax 611 15 56, www.pwc. com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. T&MC C-2, Amruševa 19/II, tel. 481 12 30, fax 481 12 29, www.tmc.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. VBZ B-2, Tomićeva 2, tel. 481 25 37, knjizara-zagreb@ vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Bookshop boutique with impressive selection of foreign books on art and architecture. Also at D-4, Branimir Centar, Draškovićeva 51, tel. 467 08 04 and at B-3, Frankopanska 24, tel. 484 72 22. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Delicatessen 091 502 49 73, stross@bakina-kuca.hr, www.bakinakuca.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Franja Coffe & Tea House D/E-2, Vlaška 62, tel. 455 63 91, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. Exotic tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags. Also at A -2, Ilica24, tel. 483 01 89 and at K-3, Heinzelova 6b, tel. 461 67 44. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30, Sat 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Gavrilović C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. 481 68 02. A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Iločki podrumi C-1, Kaptol 12, tel. 481 45 93, ilockipodrumi@vk.tel.hr, www.ilocki-podrumi.hr. Ilok is a town in Slavonia known for its wines. This store is known for its good selection of them. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Ivić E-2, Vlaška 64, tel./fax 461 70 62, catering@ delikates-ivic.com, www.delikates-ivic.com. Presenting the best of Croatian with the accent on Dalmatia, they have an excellent array of cold meats, cheeses and wines and condiments, plus sandwiches and fresh salads to take away. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Bakina kuća Strossmayerov trg 7, tel. 384 38 05/ Kraš C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 12, tel./fax 481 04 43, www.kras.hr. Croatian factory of all kinds of different candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte! QOpen 07:00 21:00. Closed Sun. A Pantheon B-2, Tomićeva 5, tel. 483 39 07, fax 483 35 93, vinoteka.pantheon@pantheon.hr, www.pantheon.hr. An excellent selection of wines, olive oil, homemade cheese and other fine delicacies to be found in the one place. A perfect short stop for tasting Croatian products. If you seek that true holiday experience, make sure you visit their wine bar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. A Ribarnica Tuljan D-3, Palmotićeva 28, tel. 481 76 24/ 091 481 76 24. Superb quality fresh (and sometimes smoked) fish, a selection of fine Croatian olive products and wines, also wines from the excellent Australian Rosemount Estate and Spanish Freixenet bubbly. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. VinAnima Gundulićeva 20, tel./fax 485 43 03, vinanima@vinanima.hr, www.vinanima.hr. Look no further when it comes to a fine drop of wine as this great ‘vino’ store is jam packed with some of today’s and yester year classics, including port, cognac, sherry, rakija, olive oil and chocolate. Store owner Iva is a top class sommelier who ensures you will get an excellent wine that satisfies all occasions. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Vrutak H-3, Vodovodna 20, tel. 364 37 05, fax 364 35 73, vrutak@vrutak.hr, www.vrutak.hr. A treasure trove in the basement of an otherwise unremarkable wholesalestyle supermarket: the biggest collection of Croatian wines seen anywhere ever, and a great selection of foreign wines and spirits too. A cocktail-meister’s paradise. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Banks Erste & Steiermarkische bank I-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 41, tel. 062 37 10 00, fax 062 37 19 56, erstebank@erstebank.hr, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo alpe adria bank C-2, Trg bana J.Jelačića 3, tel. 489 17 00, www.hypo-alpe-adria-hr. QOpen 07:30 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Also at Koturaška 47 tel.610 36 66,open:08:00 - 19:00. Sat,Sun cls. Privredna banka E-2, Kneza Mislava 2, tel. 636 28 11, pbz@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Raiffeisenbank C-2, Petrinjska 59, tel. 456 64 66, fax 481 16 24, rba@rba.tel.hr, www.rba.hr. QOpen 09:00 16:00, Mon 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Volksbank B-2, Varšavska 9, tel. 480 13 17, fax 480 13 65, info@volksbank.hr, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Also on Račkog 9 and Maksimirska 120, tel.236 27 10, open 09:00 - 17:00. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 10, tel. 610 40 00, fax 481 38 15, zaba@zaba.hr, www.zaba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Brokerage houses Auctor B-2, Dežmanova 5, tel. 480 76 00, auctor@ auctor.hr, www.auctor.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - July 2008 Zagreb In Your Pocket 58 business direCtorY Notaries Hrvatska Javnobilježnička komora D-2, Račkoga 10, tel. 455 65 66, fax 455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www. hjk.hr. Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: there is a primary association that you have to go through. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. business direCtorY 59 Real estate Confector D-2, Trg hrvatskih velikana 4, tel. 492 38 25/ 091 201 25 88, fax 492 38 27, confector@ confector.hr, www.confector.hr. Sales and rental of exclusive residential and office space in the centre of town. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Elite Real Estate C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1 (Hotel Dubrovnik), 7th floor, tel. 485 55 36, 099 585 80 48/ 091 414 40 22, 099 663 69 20, info@eliterealty. hr. Lease and sale of high quality homes and offices. The experienced international staff (Eng, Fr, Ger, It.) give you legal peace of mind, offer interior design services and can help smooth your move. Weekend service by appointment. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Jet-Set J-3, Jurkovićeva 26, tel. 461 30 67/ 098 20 69 62, fax 461 26 20, jet-set@jet-set.hr, www.jet-set.hr. Property management service. Direct contact: Ana- Marija Baljkas: ana.baljkas@jet-set.hr QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kastel - Zagreb C-3, Svačićev trg 5, tel. 457 21 05/ 457 21 06, fax 457 76 67, office@kastel-zagreb.hr, www.kastel-zagreb.hr. Getting sick of setting mousetraps and running the oven for auxiliary heat? Perhaps the Kastel real estate agents can help you. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge B-3, Ivana Lučića 2a (Eurotower), tel. 482 61 14, fax 482 61 94, anela.besic@kingsturge. hr, www.kingsturge.com. A staff of friendly professionals ensures that you find exactly what you’re looking for. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ozana C-1, Dvorničićeva 33, tel. 468 47 03/ 468 47 52, fax 468 47 52, realestate@ozana.hr, www.ozana. hr. True professionals in the field, Ozana specialises in middle to high-end accommodation. Does a lot of work with the embassies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zagreb West C-2, Nikole Tesle 4/3, tel. 481 18 48/ 098 23 42 48, info@zagrebwest.hr, www.zagrebwest. hr. Extremely friendly service, they customise their approach to meet your specific needs. Convenient location on Nikole Tesle. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CAIB C-2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. 489 78 04, zagreb@ca-ib. com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Centar banka D-2, Jurišićeva 24, tel. 487 04 41, www. centarbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prva generacija D-2, Martićeva 13, tel. 461 20 55, prva-generacija@prva-generacija.hr, www.prvageneracija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. To one brokeri C-2, Teslina 10/II, tel. 482 58 85, fax 482 58 93. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Volksbank C-2, Varšavska 9, tel. 480 13 00, info@ volksbank.hr, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen . Closed Sat, Sun. Lawyers Hrvatska Odvjetnička Komora B-4, Koturaška 53, tel. 616 52 00, fax 617 06 86, odvjetnicka.komora@ odvj-komora.hr, www.odvj-komora.hr. Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in the Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for information about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need. One stop shop for business! This year, a new service, HITRO.HR, has made the process of starting a business a whole lot easier. The Zagreb HITRO.HR centre is in the FINA (Financial Agency) building at Vukovarska 70 (I-3).There, you can deal with all the paperwork you need to register a limited liability company or as an independent trader, plus you have access to loads of useful information and addresses. We’re told you can get a company registered in as little as seven days. Their website is also very helpful: www.hitro.hr. Freephone info: 0800 00 80. Phone cards You can purchase phone cards (telekarta) at any kiosk - they come in 15 - 100 units and cost 15 - 100Kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad. www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 60 business direCtorY Pharmacy 0-24 liFestYle direCtorY Community contacts If you’re new to town, here for work or simply wish to increase your circle of friends, we have a variety of groups and organizations that just may put a spark into your social calendars. For the religiously devout there are several Church groups that are active in Zagreb and centrally located. The Anglican (Episcopal) Church of Zagreb meets each Sunday (September-June) at 10:00 in St. Joseph‘s Chapel, 4th floor of the seminary building, Jesuit Center, 110 Jordanovac. The service is preceded by Sunday school for elementary and middle school-age children at 9:30. The service is followed by refreshments and fellowship. Children of all ages are welcome. For more information, please contact Janet Berković (janet.berkovic@zg.htnet.hr or 098 193 17 74) Tocher Mitchell (tocher.mitchell@gmail.com or 098 984 27 82) or Michelle Wollam (WollamME@state. gov or 091 661 22 79). Services at the Baptist Church on Radićeva start at 11:30am every Sunday. They also have a children‘s Sunday School during the school year. The service is in Croatian, but translated into English by the use of headsets. For information contact Janet Tuškan Tel: 657 03 53 Cell phone: 091 736 14 75. If you’ve had your fair share of soul searching and wish to pursue the lighter side of life, then some of these may be of interest. British Croatian Business Network (BCBN) that intends to meet regularly. It is more business oriented www.bcbn.org Every Thursday night the largest gathering of expats meet for drinks. The Old Pharmacy pub, Hebrangova 11, For directions or questions, please email social@apscroatia. com or call Karl 091 886 89 69 Ladies do not feel left out as we have a few well organized groups that we know can enrich your weekly outings. Several groups of women from all over the world meet regularly once a week to study the Bible and enjoy one another‘s company in member‘s homes. There are at present four groups meeting on different weekday mornings for about 2 hours. There is babysitting available in two of the groups, and discussions are in English. For more information please telephone Janet Tuškan: 657 03 53 or 091 736 14 75; Elaine Parnham: 234 02 53 or 091 150 95 20; Kelly Schierman 244 61 58; or Julie Mendez 233 75 00. International Women’s Club, Kneza Borne (Hotel Sheraton tel. 461 16 60). They meet every month in Hotel Sheraton and have all kinds of events planned for the coming months. Voluntary work is another great way to meet people within the community and there are many interesting things that can be pursued. Volunteer’s Center Zagreb, Baščanska 11, tel. 301 37 36, www.vcz.hr Is photography one of your favorite pastimes? Or are you after something completely new? Photo Club Zagi, Trg žrtava fašizma, call Mr Mladen Biščan 098 46 05 83 So, amongst all of the aforementioned groups there is sure to be something for everyone. It’s autumn and the weather is delightful, we encourage all our readers to get out there and make the most of their time in Zagreb. We’d love to see some photos or even hear about your experiences. Email us at zagreb@inyourpocket.com. Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3 (C-2) tel. 481 61 98 Ilica 301 (A-2) tel. 375 03 21 Ozaljska 1 (H-3) tel. 309 75 86 Avenija V. Holjevca 22, Siget (I-5) tel. 652 54 25 Grižanska 4, Dubrava (L-2) tel. 299 23 50 61 Veterinary clinics 1, br.69, tel. 244 13 63. The place for your pooch to get a good night`s sleep. Veterinary Clinic For Little Animals K-3, Heinzelova 55, tel. 604 01 86. A clinic for small animals with a pharmacy attached. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Veterinary clinics and pharmacies M-1, Dankovećka ulica 9, tel. 298 79 83. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Klinike Veterinarskog fakulteta K-3, Heinzelova 55, tel. 239 01 11. Q Open 24hrs. Veterinarsko-higijenski servis K-3, Stara Peščenica Numbers you‘ll need 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, www.mvp.hr Business visa info. Croatian Embassy (SLO), Gruberjevo nabrežje 6, (Ljubljana), tel. +386 1 425 62 20, croemb.slovenia@ mvp.hr. It’s the closest embassy outside of the Croatian border. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Ministry of Health and Social Welfare, Ksaver 200a, tel. 460 75 55 Police station C-3, Petrinjska 30, tel. 456 31 11 Croatian Foreign Ministry C-3, Trg N.Š. Zrinjskog Croatian Lawyer's Association B-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel.616 52 00 , www.odvj-komora.hr 00. Embassies: Australia B-3, Nova ves 11/ lll, tel. 489 12 00. Canada B-2, Prilaz Djure Deželića 4, tel. 488 12 UK I-4, Ivana Lučića 4, tel. 600 91 00. USA J-6, ul Thomasa Jeffersona 2, tel. 661 22 00. Dry cleaners & Laundries Doratex D-3, Draškovićeva 31, tel. 461 29 90. All the services you need for cleaning, ironing and mending clothes! QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Express A/B-2, Đorđićeva 3b, tel. 492 26 29. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Lora B-1/2, Dežmanova 2, tel. 484 76 54. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Petecin Zdenka C-1, Kaptol 11, tel. 481 48 02. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. www.inyourpocket.com Interpreters & translators Asta Kovačić E-4, Držićeva 84, tel. 611 78 70/ 091 30/ 481 03 97, fax 481 76 58, prevoditeljski-centar@ zg.t-com.hr, www.drustvoprevoditelja.htnet.hr. Their staff are fluent (collectively, of course) in 21 European languages, Chinese, Japanese and Arabic. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Spes H-3, Garićgradska 11, tel. 309 59 15, fax 304 16 91, spes@spes.hr, www.spes.hr. Q08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prevoditeljski centar C-2, Amruševa 19, tel. 492 27 795 27 45.Q Open 24 hours. Language Schools Berlitz C-2, Amruševa 10, tel. 481 21 16, fax 481 19 58, berlitz@berlitz.hr, www.berlitz.hr. Numerous languages are taught with a communicative, well balanced modern approach. A universally recongised method that engages students at all levels. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Language Spot Heinzelova 60/S, tel. 461 80 05, info@languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. QOpen , Mon, Thu 08:00 - 12:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. Emergency health care Children’s Emergency A/B-3, Klaićeva 16, tel. 460 Dental Emergency B-3, Perkovčeva 3, tel. 482 84 11.QOpen 24hrs 01 11.QOpen 24hrs 88.QOpen Sun and holidays 24hrs General Health H-2, Ul. Sv. Duha 64, tel. 371 21 Zagreb In Your Pocket June - July 2008 62 street register 29. X. 1918. Aleksandrove stube Amruševa Andrije Hebranga A. Heinza Andrije taje Antuna Bauera Arnoldova Augusta Šenoe A. Marina Držića Bakačeva Barčićeva Baruna Trenka Basaricekova Bednjanska Biankinijeva Bogovićeva Borislavićeva Božidara Adžije Branjugova Brešćenskog Britanski trg Brozova Buconjićeva Bulatova Bulićeva Čačkovićeva Cesarčeva Čirilometodska Crnatkova Dalmatinska Degenova Demetrova Dežmanova Domagojeva Đorđićeva Draškovića Dubravkin put Dvoranski prečac Erdödyeva Felbingerove stube Florijana Andrašeca Frane Petrića Franje Račkog Frankopanska Froudeova Golubovac Grič Grgura Ninskog Gundulićeva Habdelićeva Harmica Hochmanova Hrvojeva Ilica Ivana Gorana Kovačića Ivana Kukutjevića Ivekovićeve stube Jagićeva Janka Jezuitski trg Jukićeva Jurišićeva Jurja terjavića Jurkovićeva Kačićeva Kamaufova Kamenita Kaptol Kapucinske stube Katančićeva Katarinin trg Klaićeva Kneza Borne Kneza Branimira Kneza Ljudevita Posavskog Kneza Mislava Kneza Mutimira Kneza Višeslava Koranska Kordunska Koturaška Kovačića Ante Kozarčeva Kotarska Kralja Držislava Kralja Zvonimira Kraljice Jelene Kranjčevićeva Križanićeva Kršnjavoga Krutićeva Krvavi most Kumičićeva Kurelčeva C-1 B-1 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-3 A-2 D-3 E-4 C-2 E-2 C-3 C-1 B-4 E-2 C-2 C-3 A-3 D-2 E-2 A-2 A-4 A-2 A-2 E-2 E-1 C-2 C-1 A-4 B-2 C-1 B-1 B-2 D-4 D-2 D-3 B-1 C-1 E-3 C-1 A-4 C-2 D-2 B-3 B-1 B-1 B-2 C-4 B-3 C-1 C-2 A-3 E-3 A-2 B-1 A-2 D-1 A-3 D-3 C-1 A-3 C-2 B-3 E-1 A-3 E-2 C-1 C-1 B-1 C-3 C-1 A-3 D-3 D-4 E-3 D-3 D-3 E-3 B-4 A-2 A-4 C-3 A-1 C-1 D-3 E-2 E-3 A-4 D-3 A-3 E-3 C-2 C-4 D-2 Kuševićeva Laginjina Lepušićeva Lisinskog Lopašićeva Ljudevita Gaja Margaretska Marićev prolaz Markovićev trg Martićeva Marulićev trg Masarykova Matičina Matoševa Mažuranićev trg Medulićeva Mesnička Mihanovićeva Miklouševa Mikulićeva Miramarska Mletačka Mlinarske stube Mrazovićeva Nikole Tesle Novakova Opatička Opatovina Palmotićeva Pantovčak Park Ribnjak Paromlinska Patačićkina Pavla Hatza Pavla Subića Pavlinovićeva Perkovčeva Petrinjska Petrova Pierottijeva Pod zidom Posilovićeva Praška Preobražanska Preradovićeva Pr. Gjure Deželića Primorska Radićeva Radnički dol Ribnjak Rokov perivoj Rokova Rubetićeva Ruđera Boškovića Runjaninova Šalata Savska cesta Schloss stube Širolina Skalinska Smičiklasova Splavnica Stančićeva Starčevićev trg Streljačka Strojarska Strossmayerov trg Strossmayerovo šetalište Svačićev trg Švearova Tituša Brezovačkoga Tkalčićeva Tomašićeva Tomićeva Tratinska Trg Ante Starčevića Trg bana Josipa Jelačića Trg Biskupa Josipa Langa Trg braće Hrvatskog Zmaja Trg Hrvatskih velikana Trg Franklina Roosvelta Trg žrtava fašizma Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV Trg kralja Tomislava Trg Maršala Tita Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinjskog Trg Petra Preradovića Trg Petra Petretića Trg Svetog Marka Trnjanska cesta Trpimirova Tuškanac Tvrtkova Unska Varšavska B-1 E-2 E-3 B-1 E-2 C-3 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-2 B-3 B-2 C-3 B-1 B-3 B-3 B-2 B/C-4 C-1 E-1 C-4 B-1 C-1 D-3 C-2 D-1 C-1 C-1 D-3 A-2 D-1 C-4 D-2 D-3 E-3 A-2 B-3 C-2 E-1 A-3 C-2 E-1 C-2 C-2 C-3 A-2 A-2 C-1 A-1 C-1 B-2 A-2 D-1 D-3 B-4 D-1 A-4 D-2 E-3 C-1 D-2 C-2 E-3 C-4 B-1 E-4 C-3 B-2 C-3 E-3 B-1 C-1 E-2 B-2 A-4 C-4 C-2 D-1 C-1 D-2 B-3 D-3 E-3 C-3 B-3 C-3 C-2 E-1 C-1 D-4 D-4 B-1 E-3 B-4 B-2 Vinkovićeva Visoka Vitezovićeva Vladimira Nazora Vlaška Voćarska cesta Voćarsko naselje Vodnikova C-1 B-1 C-1 A-1 D-2 E-1 E-1 B-4 Vojnovićeva Vončininova Vramčeva Vranicanijeva Vukotinovićeva Weberova Zamenhoffova Zvonarnićka E-2 D-1 D-1 B-1 B-3 C-1 A-1 C-1 Trust In Your Pocket Some have called it the scandal that rocked an industry, others have merely said that it was only a matter of time. Whatever it was labelled the revelations of a Lonely Planet author in April that he had never visited Columbia, - despite writing Lonely Planet’s guide to the country - sent shockwaves through the travel publishing industry, exposing an underbelly of cheating, plagiarism, poor rates of pay and outrageously bad management. We at In Your Pocket remained smug throughout. As we employ only locally based authors who are aware of our starvation-inducing salaries from the word go, we do not have to worry about authors not going to the places they write about. What’s more, they are backed up by a local team of researchers who check and double check every detail in every guide every issue. So the information you get from us is first hand and independently verified. That’s why The Times named In Your Pocket as one of ten guide book publishers you really can trust and rely on. Zagreb In Your Pocket