Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps ZAGREB October - November 2008 Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Zagreb In Your Pocket Abounding Autumn Food for thought It‘s raining with cultural events Why olives and wine will make this season shine N°44 www.inyourpocket.com Contents Marijana Žvan Šestinski suncobran 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving Your first view of the capital city 6 7 8 9 18 20 30 40 The Basics More than just climate stats (not much) History Kings, queens, rooks and pawns. Culture & Events From punk to Paganini. Go Gourmet Where to stay A place to rest your weary head. Restaurants Lions, wolves and bear cubs welcome Nightlife When you just gotta boogie. 41 Cafés Easily the best scene in the world! What to see All those things you mustn’t miss 45 48 49 53 54 55 57 61 Mail & Phones Smoke signals and carrier pigeons. Getting around Save on shoe leather. Transport map Sport Why the Croats are such good athletes Shopping Helping you get rid of that extra cash Business Directory Become a millionaire in no time Lifestyle Directory The most essential support Maps & Index Street index City map City centre map Country map 62 63 64 66 October - November 2008 4 Foreword Judging by the weather you would think that winter is well and truly here, but it‘s autumn and despite the cold, we have so much to offer that it‘s sure to warm up your needy social calendar. The amount of jazz events that are being held in Zagreb will undoubtedly sooth your souls, not to mention some gastronomic delights which include food exhibitions and even cooking workshops to help refine your chef-like skills. Last but not least, wine lovers are in for a treat with the annual feast of Saint Martin (who is the patron saint of wine). Wine is traditionally blessed by avid bishops who you might see lurking around Zagreb and it‘s then ready to dazzle your mouth watering taste buds. Europe In Your Pocket Guides in an instant… Did you know you can download free instant guides to many of our In Your Pocket destinations? They’re 12-page versions featuring a careful selection of hotels, restaurants and other useful information. Simply go to our international homepage, www.inyourpocket. com. You’ll see a banner at the top “Download instant guides”. Click on it, and a new page will open up. Choose the city you want, click and print! You’re ready to go! Cover Story Zagreb In Your Pocket in conjunction with Nikon had organised a great photo competition for our readers. Out of the many snapshots that had been recieved, three lucky people were awarded oustanding prizes. In saying that, we were absolutely thrilled with many of the photographs and this is just one of them, the photo was taken by Ivan Smuk and it shows a snippet of life in one of the city’s major shopping centres. Our city has had a major make over in recent years and shopping centres have become part and parcel of our lives; where you can stay in touch with the latest trends, stroll, have a cup of coffee or simply watch time go by. With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email: editor@inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Zagreb In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1333-2732 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Published 6 times per year Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell, Renata Kontrec, Jonathan Bousfield Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Zagreb In Your Pocket team, TZ Zagreb, Domagoj Novosel Sales & Circulation Account Manager Mirna Cindrić General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević, Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Cover: Ivan Smuk ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Zagreb In Your Pocket 6 Arriving in zAgreb 34 44. Open 6:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities, Garderoba, are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 10Kn/hr. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg Bana Josipa Jelačica, take tram N°6 towards Crnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 50Kn. All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. For further details www.carina. hr or call 610 23 25/610 24 61. bAsiCs Customs Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zagreb (May 2001): 779,145 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other. Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zagreb it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. 7 Electricity By plane By bus Contrary to its Central European brethren, the Zagreb bus station (autobusni kolodvor) isn’t as big, bad and ugly as most. They even made an attempt to spruce up the place with a sculpture of a two-headed woman in front of the central ticket office. The ground floor is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed) and chapel. There are two 24-hour cafés in the station: Buffet Stop is located in the waiting area and Inch is to the right of the ticketing hall. For more than a greasy burek downed with a pint try Café Bar Bus (Open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 23:00) located right next to Inch. Or opt for Pivnica Zagreb (tel. 611 13 25. Open 24 hours) where meals can be procured in the 30Kn range. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is also currency exchange (Mjenjačnica, Open 06:00 - 22:00) in the ticketing hall. Calling home: The Tisak kiosk (Open 05:00 - 23:00) sells phone cards and is located up the small staircase and to the right of the main hall. Public phones are located in the main hall or you can climb the large staircase to the top floor should you want a chance at having a private conversation. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 1.20Kn/ hr unless your bag weighs over 15kg in which case you’ll be paying 2.30Kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3Kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 60-80Kn to get to the centre. Pleso International Airport is located 17km out of town. Unlike all other major points of entry into the city, the airport has no chapel or left luggage facilities. The small size makes the airport easily negotiable; both domestic and international arrival and departure areas are located on the ground floor. Changing currency: In what could be considered the most prime of locations (right outside international arrivals), there is a Zagrebačka banka office complete with a currency exchange (Open 07:00 - 21:00) and ATM. Two other currency exchanges exist: one in the post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00 in the centre of the airport and a Privredna Banka Zagreb kiosk (Open 07:30 - 19:30. Closed Sun.) in the domestic arrivals hall. Calling home: Phones are sprinkled throughout the airport and a phone card can be bought at the newsstand, Prodavaonica novina, (Open 05:00 - 23:00) located in the domestic departures area. The post office (Open 07:00 - 21:00) located in the centre of the airport also has five phone booths, which are cordoned off from prying ears should you want to whisper sweet nothings to someone. There are two cafés (Open 06:00 - 22:00) located on either side of the building. However, should you want something more substantial than a coffee and three day old sandwich trot upstairs to Faust Vrančić (Open 07:00 - 21:00), where mains cost a hefty 60Kn, but you’ll feel like your in an IKEA showroom overlooking a runway. In the domestic departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 626 52 22), which is open 24 hours. Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from the post office have a baby changing station, whereas the ones on the top floor usually are less crowded. Getting to Town: Croatia Airlines runs a bus service from Pleso International to the bus station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves roughly every half hour from outside the international arrivals and costs 25Kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. A trip into the city should cost no more than 200Kn(start 25Kn, 1km - 7Kn, luggage - 5Kn). The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical trans appliances. Public Toilets Public toilets or WC are few and far between, and when you find one a standard 2-3kn charge is tacked on for the privilege. No fear however friend: the grinning lady that accepts your coins makes you feel honoured for the bowel release, and we’ll dare to say that your movements through town will certainly be more joyous thereafter. These days Croatia is fairly monotone in religious terms. Having always existed on the frontiers of three religions; Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim; time was that one could find a right old mix here. However, since the most recent conflicts the population has become overwhelmingly Catholic with the 2001 Census recording 87.83% as loyal to Rome. Religion Roads National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 May 22 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day Climate 30 10 0 -10 -20 J FMAMJ J A SOND Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. Citizens from Australasia, EU, North and South America are allowed into Croatia without a visa. Everybody else needs a visa which must be obtained before en tering the republic - you tained be can’t do this at any Croatian land border. For the complete list visit www.inyourpocket.com or contact the Consular Department of the Croatian Foreign Ministry at C-2/3, Trg Foreign Min try N.Š. Zrinjskog 7-8, tel. 456 99 64, fax 458 17 95, www. mvp.hr. You are required by law to register with the police, a matter taken care of by hotels, hostels and campsites. If you’re staying with friends you have a 24 hour period to complete some paperwork at the police station (tel. 92) - be lice ( sure to bring your passport! And no, the police won’t hunt you down should you fail to register with them, it merely saves you a lot of headache if you should find yourself in trouble while you’re in Croatia. Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 10 eggs McDonald‘s Big Mac Loaf of white bread Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket 45kn 12kn 14.9kn 5.5kn 4.9kn 20kn 8kn €6.00 €1.60 €1.98 €0.73 €0.65 €2.73 €1.06 By train Not as pleasing to the eye on the inside as from the outside, Zagreb’s train station, Glavni kolodvor, is not as user-friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city (hmmm). The outdoor café innovatively called Café Zagreb Glavni Kolodvor (Open 05:00 - 23:00) provides great peoplewatching opportunities as across the street is a main tram stop. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left corner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticketing area as is another ATM. Calling home: In the main hall there are numerous kiosks, which sell phone cards; however, the Tisak kiosk (Open 05:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 23:00) has the best working hours of the bunch. Public phones are located in the halls to the left and right of the main hall. The Information office (Tel. 060 33 Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 Visas 20 Exchange rates (as of 24. 09. 2008): US$1 = 4,82kn € 1 =7,12kn www.inyourpocket.com  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 October - November 2008 Zagreb In Your Pocket 8 HistorY In the beginning... Around 625 A.D. a Slavic tribe known as the Croats makes its way south from present-day Poland. The exodus takes over a century in its progression. 9th Century In 800 the Church of the Holy Cross of Nin is inscribed with the Latin Here the weak man is brought to light because of Prince Višeslav’s Christian conversion. By the end of the century (879) Croatia is recognised as an independent state under Branimir's rule. 10th Century Croatia reaches its greatest power under the rule of Tomislav (910 - 929) who brings Croats together to form a unified state. Granted papal permission, he rules a great army and repels Hungarian forces (924). Pope Clement IV crowns him king in 925. 11th Century Croatia is both officially and irreversibly Catholic with the reign of King Petar Krešimir (1058 - 1074). The name Zagreb is first employed as a name for the land south of Medvednica Mountain in 1094. 12th Century Croatia enters a personal union with Hungary (1102). The two countries share kings for the next 400 years but remain separate states both culturally and legally. 13th Century Four crusades are led against the people of the Dalmatian coast. In 1204, crusaders occupying Zadar are given a fleet of warships by Pope Innocent III, helping them control the region. 14th Century Pope Clement V attacks Zadar (1312) and Venice takes control of a large part of the coast, including both Split and Nin. 15th Century King Ladislav (Naples) sells enormous tracts off the Dalmatian coast to Venice (1409). The Ottoman Turks invade (1493) and nearly all of the Croatian aristocracy are killed in the Krbavska battle. They’re able to take over much of the country. Though they closely approach Zagreb on numerous occassions, they’re never able to capture it. 16th Century Pope Leo X calls Croatia Antemurale Christianitatis (a perimeter bulwark) as it struggles to survive the wrath of the Ottomans (1519). In 1526 Ludovik II, the last king of Croatia, is killed in the battle of Mohac. Austrian Duke Ferdinand is given the crown to get protection from the Turks. 17th Century Counts Zrinski and Frankopan, two leaders of powerful Croatian families, attempt to start a revolt against the Austrian rulers but fail. They are hunted down and beheaded in 1671. By the end of the 17th Century, central Croatia is sovereign of the Turkish armies. 18th Century The last year of the Ottoman presence is 1718. Maria Theresa becomes the empress (1740) and the first female ruler of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Her son Joseph II inherits the throne. After his death, Hungary attempts to Hungarianise the Croats, which manifests in an attempted coercion of cultural, linguistic and social conventions. 19th Century The Napoleonic French wrestle Dubrovnik away from Russian and Montenegrin forces who are fighting for the city (1808). Though their occupation proves to be very short (ending in 1813), French forces reach a spot mere kilometres from Zagreb before being turned away. Ljudevit Gaj (1834), respurns the patriotic Illyrian movement which serves to mend the many languages and dialects of the country into one. It also creates a renewed sense of nationalism and by 1847 Croatian replaces Latin as the official language in Parliament. In 1848 Croatian Duke Jelačić helps Austria to suppress a Hungarian rebellion and abolishes serfdom. Early 20th Century Austrian Duke Ferdinand is assassinated by Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip (1914) and World War I begins. Austria attacks Serbia, dividing Croatian sentiment. The Austro-Hungarian monarchy is ultimately destroyed (1918), and a new alliance is brought about called the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. It’s a tense union, with the balance of power clearly held by Serbia. In a session of parliament in 1928, the leader of the HSS, (Croatian Peasants' Party) Stjepan Radić is shot for his independent posturing by Puniša Racić, a Serbian extremist. Four of Radić’s colleagues are also shot and killed; he dies from his wounds a couple of months later. A young Croat known by the nickname Tito becomes leader of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia in 1937. Communism And Beyond - World War II begins in 1939 and by 1941 Yugoslavia is part of the fighting. Military and ideological allegiance is split three ways: Tito’s Partizani army resists the Nazi regime on German and Italian occupied fronts; the Ante Pavelić led Ustaša faction supports Hitler; the Serbian Četnici seek to retain the Yugoslavian monarchy, (although also were known to collaborate with the fascists). German forces control a large territory in central and eastern Croatia, referred to as the In dependent State re of Croatia (NDH). 1943 The Anti-Fascist National Liberation Council of Yugoslavia meets and sets up their first parliament. AVNOJ is led by Tito, re-affirming fascist resistance and expressing intent to control Yugoslavia. 1945 Yugoslavia is liberated from Nazi forces. Some of the Pavelić-led Ustaša attempt to flee to Austria and are captured by Partizan forces near the town of Bleiburg. They surrender and are immediately executed. It’s hard to believe that the orders for this act were not known of or designated by Tito, but it remains a matter of great debate. Tito is soon in control of Yugoslavia. Pavelić evades capture and escapes to Argentina. 1948 Stalin fails in his attempt to persuade Tito to ally himself with the staunch communism practiced in the Soviet Union. The move creates great tension between the two powers and is not wholly supported by the people. This is one of the few aspects of the Tito legacy that is popularly supported by the Croats. 1961 Tito formulates a notion of Nesvrstani (Non-Allied Countries) as a reaction to the recent creation of NATO and the Warsaw Pact. 1967 - 1971 A Serbo-Croat dictionary is published, seeming to make Serbian the standard language and Croatian a subordinate to it. The Declaration Concerning the Name and Position of the Croatian Language is published immediately thereafter, demanding the recognised equality of all four Yugoslavian state languages. A ripple of Croatian nationalism begins to be felt, ideologically referred to as Croatian Spring (Hrvatsko proljeće). Tito briefly aligns himself with the Croatian Spring though soon changes his opinion, feeling this action goes against his Yugoslavian rallying cry of brotherhood and unity (Bratstvo i jedinstvo). 1980 - 1988 Tito dies on May 4, 1980, thus signalling the beginning of the end of Yugoslavia as it had so long been known. The decade is a turbulent one for the Croatian people, many wishing to retain the politics and ideologies of Tito, and a great many others wishing to express their independence and a more democratic vision. The economies of both Yugoslavia and Croatia begin a steady decay, greatly heightening tensions. 1990 An uprising of the people demands the first democratic vote, and a nationalist ex-Partizan general named Franjo Tuđman (HDZ) is named the first president ever of the Croatian state. Though he wins the popular vote, he faces a terribly segregated state. Serbian military presence (JNA - Yugoslav People’s Army) and police influence commands a supremely powerful faction within the newly independent Croatia, creating an electrifying current of tension. A referendum results in an overwhelming vote for an independent Croatia. The first Croatian constitution is written, professing Croatia an tution pro independant and democratic state. Culture & events 9 October 01 – 09 Queer Zagreb Festival This year’s festival theme is ‘Crime, sexuality, gender’. It’s jam packed with exhibitions including ‘Punishment and Crime’ and ‘The Winter Tale’ by Katarzyna Kozyra from Poland, ‘Out of Sorts’ by Andrea Geyer and a whole lot more. It’s to be seen and heard. Europa Cinema (B-2) Varšavska 4, Histrionski dom (A-2) Ilica 90, tel. 549 63 87, &TD Theatre (A-4) Savska cesta 25, tel. 459 35 10 , Vidra Theatre (D-3) Draškovićeva 80 and Gavella Theatre (B-2) Frankopanska 8-10, tel. 484 92 22 Petar Barišić You can see the outstanding photographs of one of Croatia’s greatest photographers Tošo Dabac at the outer gallery of the Croatian Postage Bank, at the corner of Jurišićeva and Petrinjska Street. October 01 – 23 Omer Fast: The Great Message The works of Omer Fast can be found in some of the worlds most prestigious art museums. The Great Message is a 27 minute narrated video which portrays a vast selection of daily, yet bizarre situations in the life of a group of people living in an apartment in Belgium. Miroslav Kraljević Gallery (E-2) Šubićeva 29, tel. 459 26 96 www.inyourpocket.com  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 October - November 2008 Zagreb In Your Pocket 10 Culture & events October 01 – 31 Retrospective: Stjepan Balja – 50 Golden Years See the works of this renowned Croatian jeweler as the exhibition is divided into different sections: unique jewelry, silver paintings, decorative interior household objects and symbols of institutional purpose. A special focus will be on art works which he created that are special and unique in Europe style. Ethnographicl Museum (D-3) Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. 482 62 20 October 01 – November 02 The Golden Age of Carniola Historians can take this opportunity to see valuable new findings dating from the early Middle Ages. In 2004, 13 graves were discovered at the Lajh graveyard (in Kranj, Slovenia), two of them extremely rich with treasures, weapons, tools and ancient artifacts. The findings tell of the rise and fall of ancient tribes who used the area as a military stronghold. Museum of the City of Zagreb (C-1) Opatička 20, tel. 485 13 61 October 1 – November 2 Stećci The Klovićevi dvori Gallery opens its autumn season with a sensational firstclass exhibition entitled - Stećci. This will be a first ever presentation of these amazing headstones which even today, since the 14th and 15th century when they were built, have stood the test of time and have remained at their original place – cemeteries which have today been almost forgotten. How were they made? Who so skillfully carved them? When and why? These are just some of the questions that you will get the answers to if you visit this impressive exhibition at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg 4, tel. 485 21 17 October 01 – November 30 The Results of the protected archaeological excavations on the freeway route Beli Manastir - Osijek - Svilaj If you are fascinated by ancient history then come and see the results of a protected excavation. In 2006/7, five locations along the above freeway were investigated near the town of Đakovo with traces of inhabitance throughout the entire prehistoric period through to the middle ages. Archaeological Museum (C-2) N. Š. Zrinjski 19, tel. 487 31 01 October 01 – December 31 Poison and Drug hidden in the plant Are you organically minded? Well, take note as 44 different types of plants, which are used for medicinal and curative purposes, will be presented at this exhibition. But be warned as 22 of these plants are considered lethal with six of them on the commercial market. Samples of poisonous plants filled with polyester sap will also be displayed. Croatian Natural History Museum (B-1) Demetrova 1, tel. 485 17 00 October 1 – January 04 El Shatt – The Escape from Croatia into the Sinai desert, Egypt 1944-46 An exhibition based on historical events during WWII which presents life in a refugee camp as seen through the eyes of ordinary men. The location was set in the Sinai desert where blocks of refugee camps were built. Due to military actions in Dalmatia, the Allies had organized for more than 30,000 people to be evacuated between1944 to1946.This was one of the first camps in the entire war. Croatian Historical Museum (B-1) Matoševa 9, tel. 485 19 00. October 03 – 15 Croatian Jazz From the high and mighty to the young up and coming mavericks of Croatian jazz, every night will be one to remember. One performance to look out for will be by Ante Gelo, an excellent guitar player and musical composer with a guest performance by Nina Badrić. B.P. Club (C-2) Teslina 7, tel. 481 44 44 Culture & events 11 Omer Fast De Grote Boodschap &td Toranuj Olga October 04, 9 - 12 , 16 - 19 Montažstroj: Timbuktu Timbuktu is an engaged theatre play based on Paul Auster’s novel. Instead of performers, the main role belongs to a dog’s monologue which is read by an actor. It deals with sensitive issues: abandoned dogs, as well as abandoned people, the carelessness and neglect of humanity, social outlaws and our very own responsibility. Nova Scena Travno (J-5) Božidara Magovca 17 October 05 HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb: Frank Zappa This American guitar player, songwriter and band leader was one of the most important musicians, songwriters and social state commentators of the 20th century. His music has entertained generations and at this concert, he performs with a big band entourage. Free entry, just leave your name when you call 611 16 00 or at hgm@hgm.hr. Bajsić Studio (I-4) Croatian Radio Television, Prisavlje 3, tel. 611 16 00 October 7 Lisinski Jazz Cycle As part of the cycle of jazz at Lisinski, you are invited to attend a concert by the Enrico Rava Quintet (Italy). The front-man himself in on trumpet with Giancluca Petrella on trombone, Andrea Pozza on piano, Rosario Bonaccorso on bass and Roberto Gatto on drums. It is 70 kuna and well worth the trip. Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, (I-3) Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. 612 11 66 October 10 Alicia Keys Alicia Keys is definitely one of the world’s leading soul and R&B divas. Her songs continue to climb the world’s top music billboard charts and she makes her debut in Zagreb as part of the second leg of her European tour, promoting her latest album ‘As I Am’. Dražen Petrović Sports Centre (A-4) Savska 30, tel. 484 30 12 Klovićevi dvori Gallery Omer Fast &td Rice October 23 2008 – January 20 2009 Silent rebellion – the greatest masters of German expressionism From the heartland of cultural activity which in the past century had forever changed the path of art, the greatest masters of German expressionism arrive at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery. Their artworks were an introduction to an entirely new, unstoppable avalanche of events which not only touched people, but their souls and spirituality. 120 masterpieces by artists from the legendary groups ‘The Bridge’ and ‘Blue Rider’ presented by Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Emil Nolde, Franc Marc, August Macke and Aleksej von Jawlensky, show how these artists who were at the forefront of expressionism carried out their silent rebellion. You can see it for yourselves if you visit the exhibition at the Klovićevi dvori Gallery called ‘Silent rebellion – the greatest masters of the German expressionism’. Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg, 485 21 17 Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 12 Culture & events October 19 – 25 The 6th Zagreb Film Festival It isn’t Hollywood and that can be good! Come and watch one of 10 to 12 feature films, or some short films and documentaries that are sure to raise your eyebrows. Films in the main programme are either first or second works by film directors. As a preview to the festival, the photo exhibit ‘Ciao Anna’ will celebrate the life and works of Anna Magnani. Student’s Centre (A-4) Savska cesta 25 and Europa Cinema(B-2) Varšavska 4 October 21 – 24 The 18th International days of Jazz Four days of ‘jazzaria’ hits Zagreb with HRT’s Big Band and John Faddis – Dizzy’s Birthday opening the festival. Other performances include the Jon Faddis Quartet on October the 22nd. The 23rd includes Jure Pukl New York Connection whilst the last day includes performances by the Roditi/Ignatzek/ Rassinfosse Trio and Mar tin Reiter Sextet. Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall (I-3) Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. 612 11 66 November 02 HGM Jazz Orchestra Zagreb: Bob Florence This concert is dedicated to the great pianist, composer and orchestral leader Bob Florence who had passed away earlier this year. He was a 16 time Grammy nominee and some of his best songs will be performed in his honor. Free entry, just leave your name when you call 611 16 00 or at hgm@hgm. hr. Bajsić Studio (I-4) Croatian Radio Television, Prisavlje 3, tel. 611 16 00 November 05 – 09 The 4th JazZg Festival This year’s lineup is nothing short of spectacular, featuring the legendary Roy Hayes Quartet, jazz master Dave Holland who leads two of the most vibrant groups in jazz; the Dave Holland Quintet and the Dave Holland Big Band. Grammy award nominee The Kurt Elling Quartet and the Brad Mehladau Trio who are distinctly Culture & events known for playing jazz arrangements to music by Radiohead, Nick Drake and the Beatles. Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, tel. 487 25 54 November 06 – 15 The 9th N.O. Jazz Festival Take contemporary jazz and fuse it with some other musical influences, what do you get? The ‘Not Only’ jazz festival. It’s extravagantly cool as it unites some of the finest alternative jazz musicians from both Croatia and abroad. Student’s Centre (A-4) Savska cesta 25 November 6 – December 14 2008 Altars of the Avantgarde The exhibition ‘Altars of the Avant-garde’ consists of a contemporary, sometimes provocative collection of works by some of the best artists from Central and Eastern Europe. Created at the beginning of the new millennium, these works reflect on all social, political as well as artistic movements in the last decade of the 20th century. These artworks have preserved their specific origins and succinct artistic expression as they were born in the tradition of constructivism, avant-garde, socio-realism, and conceptual art. Pieces chosen for this exhibition show that the artists’ ask similar questions and articulate potential answers in a somewhat similar way, whether they live in Moscow, Prague, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Belgrade or even on the other side of the Atlantic. Klovićevi dvori Gallery (C-1) Jezuitski trg, 485 21 17 November 09 – 10 Blink – Zagreb Dance Ensemble Famous French choreographer Martine Pisani will endeavor to compose a dance entitled ‘Blink’ along with the Zagreb Dance Ensemble. Pisani is best known for her combination of strange banal movements and deeper human insight. Her works are always comically incongruous and unusually complex. Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, tel. 487 25 54 13 Ljubo Gamulin Ovako kroz koltrine pride sunce Ljubo Gamulin Cera ol gušta October 10 – 12 Petar Barišić, White – Specif ic sculptural site installations What a way to prep for the up and coming snowy season then by visiting this exhibit entitled ‘White’. Known for his work with shapes, Barišić has included over 1500 variable artworks and has spaced them non-geometrically in a way that with the aid of light, achieves ambient wholeness. Art Pavilion (C-3) Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 487 64 87 October 12 – 19 Young Choreographers Platform A rich programme of contemporary dance opens with a show by Martine Pisani ‘Sans’ and ‘Bolero’ by the East-West Centre and the Tala Dance Centre. ‘Break a Leg’ is a competitive night for young Croatian choreographers whilst an exhibition called ‘Platform’ will be opened in the Karas Gallery (C-2) Praška 4. Zagreb Youth Theatre (C-2) Teslina 7, tel. 487 25 54, Zagreb Puppet Theatre (C-3) Ulica baruna Trenka 3, tel. 487 84 44, Tvornica (E-3 ) Šubićeva 2, tel. 777 86 73 October 15 Paul Gilbert Guitar enthusiasts are treated to another night of melodic rock riffs as Gilbert presents his latest album ‘Silence followed by a deafening roar’ which was published at the prestigious Mascot Record Studio. Tickets cost 110kn or 130kn. Boogaloo Club (I-3) Ulica grada Vukovara 68, tel. 631 30 22 October 18 – 22 The 4th New Circus Festival In its fourth edition, the festival presents contemporary circus productions from Australia, Canada, the USA, France, Germany and Croatia. The event focuses on artists interested in investigating personal intimacy and the intimacy of their families. Bearing themselves in a form of confession is an interesting process in a society that is hungry for a spectacle, and a spectacle is what is expected. Tickets can be purchased at the Circus Information Centre on (C-3) Preradovićeva 34, tel. 485 43 04. The additional programme includes two photo exhibitions: October 17 – 23 French mediateka, Preradovićeva 5, Jean-Pierre Estournet (France): Voyage en comagnies /A voyage with companies October 13 - 24 Circus information centre, Preradovićeva 34, Goran Katić and Domagoj Knežević (Croatia): Circus moments 2007. Histrionski dom (A-2) Ilica 90, Zagreb Puppet Theatre (C-3) Ulica Baruna Trenka 3, Academy of Drama Arts (B-3) Trg maršala Tita 5, Boćarski dom-baloon (I-4) Prisavlje Ljubo Gamulin Ča će bit ko kalan Ljubo Gamulin Sizif prehitava z jednog kupa na drugi Ljubo Gamulin Lomna, kao paukova  Zagreb telephone code is +385-1 Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 14 Culture & events Museum of Arts and Crafts October 19 – November 16 Dušan Džamonja: Retrospective This exhibition presents Džamonja’s art donation to the city of Zagreb. See his works that date back from 1940 to the present. His newest period i s mar ke d b y n e wl y cur ve d sculptures ranging in size, varia ti on an d ma terial. His pro j e c ts for the hospital in Amman and a sk ys crap er in Dubai are also not to be missed. Museum of Arts and Crafts (B-3) Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. 488 21 11 Culture & events Classical music Devotees of classical music ought to brace themselves as the amount of concerts dedicated to that genre is second to none. 12.10 Heferer Organ and Sir Nicholas Jackson on organ, Saint John the Baptist Parish Church, Nova Ves 14.10 Zagreb Quartet, Croatian Musical Institut, Gundulićeva 6 15.10 City of London Symphony directed by Douglas Boyd, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg S. Radića 4 21.10 Kateryn Titov on piano, programme includes music by J. Haydn, D. Scarlatti, F. Chopina and S. Rachmaninov, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg S. Radića 4 22.10 Ivana Kunc (soprano) and Dan Franklin Smith on piano, Preporodna dvorana of the Narodni dom, Opatička 18 24.11 Soweto Gospel Choir 25.11 German Chamber Philharmonics Bremen Florian Donderer as director, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg S. Radića 4 Kranj nakit 15 Art Pavilion Cinemas Though many travellers consider it an annoyingly necessary pit stop between home and the sunny coast, Zagreb has no shortage of curiosities to take in. We strongly advise you take a seat in the main square, Trg bana Jelačića, to understand the city. It gives you an excellent vantage point from which to observe what life is like in the Croatian capital. If paintings and relics are your thing, it’s got plenty of those too. Movie buffs, the newest attraction of viewing 3D movie screenings is now available at Movieplex in ‘Centar Kaptol’ and Cinestar in ‘Branimir Centre’. For Cinestar bookings, phone or reserve on-line and don’t forget to pick up your tickets 30 minutes prior to the movie screening. Those who prefer less Hollywood and more world cinematography, you are invited to the Europa Cinema in Varšavska Street (for on line bookings ulaznice@kinoeuropa.hr or purchase on-line at www.ulaznice.hr). Seating at the Europa Cinema is not numbered. Tickets for the Grič Cinema can be booked easily, every day from 8am until 10pm on 481 07 93. Tickets are between 20 - 39Kn and most showtimes are between the 17:00 - 23:00. 00, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. CineStar also at Shopping centre Avenue Mall. Grič D-2, Jurišićeva 5, tel. 487 28 88, www.kinomatografi.hr. Kic Art C-2, Petra Preradovića 5, tel. 481 07 14, www. kic.hr. Kino Europa B-2, Varšavska 3, tel. 482 90 45/ 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.kinoeuropa.hr. Movieplex C-1, Nova Ves 11(Centar Kaptol ), tel. 466 76 86. Tuškanac B-1, Tuškanac 1, tel. 483 40 39, www. filmski-programi.hr/english/. Hej ima li ovdje koga October 21 – November 16 The Gilles Aillaud Exhibition Gilles Aillaud was a unique French painter and scenographer. His early works were mostly of landscapes, in-fact he would often portray animals inside cages or enclosed spaces where they are anything but free. He then turned to theatre and started creating poetic stage objects, almost metaphysical bodies connecting the abstract part of his work with concrete scenery. Critics quickly labeled him as an artist-philosopher. The exhibition presents paintings, aquarelles, drawings, photos, posters and advertisements; a true cross-section that epitomizes his artistic talent. Art Pavilion (C-3) Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 484 10 70. www.inyourpocket.com Paris November 13 Mogwai They aren’t Pink Floyd but this Scottish rock act from Glasgow use their powerful and atmospheric instrumentals to produce a timeless outer space rock sound that’s sure to please. Support band - The Twilight Sad. Tickets 140 kn or 170 kn at the door. Aquarius & A2 (G-5) Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. 364 02 31 October 15 – 18 Zagreb com 3 The Zagreb International Chamber Music Festival is a leading cultural event in Croatia. Its artistic director is violinist Susanna Yoko Henkel - an internationally acclaimed soloist residing in Zagreb. She’s arranged a star-studded line up in Stefan Milenkovich, Monika Leskovar, Giovanni Sollima, Michael Barenboim, Chen Halevi and many others. Concert tickets are available at www.eventim.hr and at the Croatian Music Institute, Gundulićeva 6, Zagreb (working days from 10 to 12 am) CineStar Zagreb D-4, Branimirova 29, tel. 468 66 Darko Bavoljak November 18 Etran Finatawa This six member band from Niger is a showcase of the Sahara desert blues. They were nominated at the BBC World Music Awards in the category of Best New Performer which subsequently opened the door for them at the Riverboat British record company. Tickets cost 100 and 120 kn. Aquarius & A2 (G-5) Matije Ljubeka bb, tel. 364 02 31 November 20 – 22 One Take Film Festival Lights, camera, action! This international film festival promotes films shot in one take with documentaries, feature film, experimental, music, video and other film styles on show. Tuškanac Cinemas (B-1) Tuškanac 1, Europa Cinemas (B-2) Varšavska 4 and Grič Cinemas (D-2) Jurišićeva 6 November 25 2008 – January 11 2009 Milivoj Uzelac – Retrospective exhibition Milivoj Uzelac (1897-1977) together with artists Vilko Gecan and Marijan Trepše were at the forefront of a new wave of modern tendencies in Croatian art. Along with numerous anthological works, the exhibition will present about 150 of his art pieces. A collection of paintings, drawings and illustrations have been assembled from mostly Croatian museums, galleries and private collections, as well as from the museums in Belgrade, Novi Sad and Sarajevo. Art Pavilion (C-3) Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. 484 10 70. Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 16 PHoto CoMPetition PHoto CoMPetition 17 Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 18 go gourMet World Wine Awards The Decanter World Wine Awards is one of the most prestigious contests for wine makers. Our very own Boris Drenški was awarded with a golden medal in the sweet wine category for his predicate wines ‘Bodren’ Chardonnay from 2005 and Rajnski Riesling from 2006. Did you know that to get just one bottle of wine, 40 kg of dry or frozen grapes are needed. Ipša Olive Oil Whilst visiting the Ipša estate enjoy their pristine tasting room of olive oil. The oil is served on a plate or special cups and heated at 35 degrees in order to ‘release’ a characteristic scent. The Aromatic bjelica has a specific recognizable bouquet after artichoke, green tomatoes, radish and freshly cut grass. ‘The Slow Food Extra Virginal Olive Oil Guide’ had awarded the Three Olives Award to Mr Klaudio Ipša near the town of Oprtalj. This award is the most important recognition of this international guide that presents only the best olive oil produced from all Italian, Croatian and Slovenian regions. Cooking class Cooking workshops in Makronova offer you a chance to learn, enjoy and taste different foods. Many courses have been prepared for this year (it’s190 kuna, from 5pm-8.30pm): 14.10 Chestnut meals, 21.10 Autumn mushrooms, 28.10 Small lunch for busy people, 04.11 Refreshing cooked meals, 11.11 Fine dumplings, 18.11 Omelets, 25.11 Tasty bread rolls. Makronova (A-2) Ilica 72/1, tel. 484 71 19 October 12 Zelina Chestnut Festivities Enter a world of serenity where the past is reinvigorated up by a mountain lodge on Mount Kladešćica. Surrounded by chestnut woods, step back in time and be taught the traditional methods of chestnut picking and roasting. Homemade specialties, interesting workshops and activities such as archery are up for show. Guided tours can be organized through the Sveti Ivan Zelina Tourist Board, tel. 206 15 44 October 18 – 19 Ivanić Grad Pumpkin Festivities An international fair that exhibits, sells and promotes e c o pro du c ts wi t h an emph asis on pumpkin goods plus your fair share of food tasting. Located at the Ivanić Grad city market, other attractions feature educational lectures on e col o gi cal pro du c ti on, wor ksh ops for b o t h children and adul ts, an enter tainment program, a visit to eco properties whi ch in clu d es cyclin g through to farmsteads in the town surroundings. Ivanić Grad Tourist Board, tel. 283 13 61 October 20 – 30 Days of Olive Oil Why not take a day trip to Vodnjan in Istria and attend this phenomenal event which gathers the finest olive tree producers and olive oil makers from the entire Adriatic region. Naturally, the event is jam packed with gastronomic foods and produce. Start at 10a.m. to 8.p.m, Restaurant Vodnjanka go gourMet 19 October 26 Turopolje Gastronomy If you’re feeling peckish and wish to distance yourself from the same old consummated food, then this traditional food festival which promotes the hospitality service of the town of Velika Gorica, will answer all of your taste bud delights. A variety of authentic specialties from the Turopolje region will be specially prepared by numerous restaurants in the area with delicious meals to be savored. November 6 – 15 St. Martin’s (Martinje) The patron saint of winegrower’s is St Martin of Tours and every year Martinje festivities are celebrated across all vineyard towns and municipalities within the Zagreb County, giving you a chance to taste some of Croatia’s finest wines and to also witness the traditional custom of ‘christening’ young wine. Cvjetni trg (Flower Square) Novemb er 28 – 29, Zagreb International Wine Festival Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition that promotes the very best in national and international ‘vino’ as locals would call it. The festival is being held for the third year running and is attracting greater audiences. The Regent Esplanade Zagreb (C-4) Mihanovićeva 1 The crew here believes food is an artform and they apply this philosophy to both its preparation and the way they eat it. You will hear the term slow-food incorporated in these parts often – expect your succulent meal to be at least a spiritual journey. Dolac farmer’market (C-2) Opened in 1930, this market has quickly become the place for špica, the local version of crusing. It’s just between Opatovina, Kaptola and Bakačeve streets and is weirdly the place locals go to put out the glamour vibe on the weekends. On Saturday mornings especially the local celebrities make the rounds here including famous musicians, artists, politicians and actors. Fortunately shopping is also exquisite: all year long the freshest and most excitingly vibrant foods are featured including local products, fruits and vegetables of the south, fresh fish of the Mediterranean and Adriatic seas and other various delicacies. You needn’t worry either friend: domestic products from grannies all over the country are also to be had here and are served up with a grin. www.inyourpocket.com Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 wHere to stAY Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool 21 Cream of the crop Spendy and well worth it, the following options include everything you could possibly need and more. Price range 690 - 11,461kn. Arcotel Allegra D-3/4, Branimirova 29, tel. 469 60 00, fax 469 60 27, allegra@arcotel.at, www.arcotel. at/allegra. The Branimir Centre encompasses not only the four-star Allegra, but also a multiplex cinema, shops, cafes and restaurants. Multifunctional furniture, contemporary seainspired decor and easily personalised rooms will no doubt do the trick for you big spenders with certain expectations. Pets welcome at 8€/day. Q151 rooms (38 singles €141, 105 doubles €155, 4 Junior Suites €215, 4 Executive Suite €250). PTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhhh Aristos J-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. 669 59 00, fax 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotel-aristos.hr. Way down south in Buzin business park; the location near the airport and major routes exposes the target market. So, should the company be picking up the tab, come to enjoy pure style, convenience and a tourist-free environment. Small pets welcome free of charge. Q80 rooms (4 singles €135 - 157, 66 doubles €147 - 172, 2 Junior suites €203, 5 Triple family suite €203, 3 Business suite €335). PHAULGBKXS hhhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria C-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. 480 89 00, fax 480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria. hr, www.bestwestern.com. The refurbished Best Western Astoria has an excellent location between the railway station and the main square, close to one of Zagreb’s most stunning parks. Fully air-conditioned, all rooms have dataports, mini-bars, free pay-per-view TV channels and full electronic controls. Excellent conference facilities with full a/v backup and a really classy feel. Prices include breakfast. Pets join for a flat fee of 30€. Q100 rooms (36 singles €119, 2 suites €262 - 300, 28 King €135 - 154, 18 Twin €135 - 154, 12 Executive €162 - 185, 4 Superior Executive €202 - 231). PTHAR6ULGK hhhh Dubrovnik C-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. 486 35 12/ 486 35 00, fax 486 35 50, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr. Built in 1929, this is the curious wall of glass that sparkles to you from the eastern end of Bogovićeva ulica. This hotel is in Position A and looks out onto Trg bana J.Jelačića and the buzzing café scene. No pets. Q266 rooms (166 singles 820 - 980Kn, 92 doubles 1200 1300Kn, 7 Junior Suite 1500Kn, 1 Presidential Suite 1600Kn). PTJHA6FLGBKXW hhhh www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 22 wHere to stAY Hotel Antunović F-4, Zagrebačka avenija 100a, tel. 204 11 11, fax 204 17 62, rezervacije@hotelantunovic. com, www.hotelantunovic.com. If you like comfort and luxury while you travel, this place certainly fits the bill. The rooms are comfortabe and luxurious and there are different types available, from smaller rooms to apartments that come with all the amenities. And the services? Everything from fitness area to shopping center to restaurant is included onsite. To top it all off, the bar at the top of the building revolves and offers a great view of the city. If you’re in town on business, you couldn’t ask for a better location or deal. It’s a winner. Q158 rooms (149 singles €117 - 157, 149 doubles €130 170, 4 suites €291 - 436, 4 Junior Suite €210, 1 Presidental Suite €1000). PHAUIFLEGBKDCW hhhh Hotel International Zagreb C-4, Miramarska 24, tel. 610 81 00, fax 610 87 00, hotel@hotel-international. hr, www.hotel-international.hr. This elegantly-designed hotel has plenty of conference and banquet area and rooms to meet the needs of any traveler. The expected amenities are all there, along with an attractive open lobby that includes bar and restaurant. If the attentive staff has anything to do with it, this might become the preferred spot for business and conferences in town. Q207 rooms (126 singles €117 - 131, 72 doubles €131 - 158, 7 triples €172, 1 Junior Suite €248, 1 Presidential Suite €414). POTHAR6ULGKW hhhh Sheraton Zagreb Hotel D-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. 455 35 35, fax 455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton. com, w w w.sheraton.com/zagreb. Ever y thing you’d expect from the world-renowned hotelier: standout service, excellent dining and relaxation options, and service that goes the extra mile. Everything you need is in house. A very popular business and conference hotel, which is also the place the stars like to stay when they’re in town. Contact the hotel to enquire about special prices. Pets up to 5kg free of charge. Q306 rooms (277 doubles €240, 10 suites €390, 18 Junior Suite €340, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW hhhhh wHere to stAY Old-School charm If grand hotels representative of another era are the order of the day? The following options are sure to fit the bill, and give you a glimpse of a life and a time far removed from the hustle and bustle of the 21st century. Palace C-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. 489 96 00/ 489 96 18, fax 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www. palace.hr. Classy and cool, it’s the oldest hotel in the city and nearly all of Europe, open since 1891. Of an antique style, you’ll feel transported to perhaps a more charming era upon immediate arrival to its impressive lobby and restaurant. Its eastern facade has wonderful views of Strossmayerov trg. Trg bana J.Jelačića is only a couple minutes walk away. Pets welcome at 15€/day. Q123 rooms (29 singles 950Kn, 88 doubles 1250Kn, 3 suites 2300Kn, 3 Junior suites 1680Kn). PTJHAR6LGBKS hhhh The Regent Esplanade Zagreb C-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. 456 66 66, fax 456 60 20, Info.Zagreb@ RezidorRegent.com, w w w.regenthotels.com. Not only will you be staying in the best location and the lap of luxury, you will also be following in the footsteps of famous faces as diverse as Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, The Kings of Spain, Nepal, and Pop (Cliff Richard). And Pele. Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express whose travellers once stayed here. Pets allowed at 20€/day. Breakfast not included; 22€/ person. Q209 rooms (147 Superior Rooms €214 - 234, 48 Delux Rooms €239 - 259, 13 Delux Suite €369 - 389, 1 Presidential Suite €1555). POTJHAR6UIFLEGBKDSW hhhhh 23 Upmarket H-3, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 9, tel. 365 83 33, fax 309 26 57, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www.fourpoints. com/zagreb. This brilliant blue-glass tower offers a superb panorama, and is now brought to you by the same folks that operate the Sheraton. Especially popular with sports teams and younger tourists and professionals, the summer terrace is a delight and the restaurant is very well thought of. Breakfast is 8 €. Contact the hotel to enquire about special offers. Q280 rooms (229 doubles €165 - 175, 17 Junior Suite €210, 22 Deluxe Suite €265, 12 Family Suite €210). POTHARULBKW hhhh The Westin Zagreb A-3, Kršnjavoga 1, tel. 489 20 00, fax 489 21 00, westinres.zagreb@westin.com, www. westin.com/zagreb. Enjoy panoramic views from this superdeluxe hotel where guests receive the best of every service from this first-class hotel. Recently refurbished majestic and elegant rooms will have you enjoying your stay in complete luxury. Experience the simple pleasures in the Allegro or Kaptol restaurants which offer renowned Mediterranean and international cuisines. With all amenities available, there are 378 rooms ranging from Q378 rooms (297 doubles €235 - 270, 23 suites €370 - 705, 19 Westin Guest Offices €320, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 38 Deluxe room twin €270). POTJHAR6UIFLGBKDCW hhhhh Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb Zagreb In Your Pocket October - November 2008 24 wHere to stAY A small family hotel that gives to it‘s guests comfortable stays wi th quali t y and provides a sui table accommodation for business people and tourists. Situated in a quiet stre