The 'wishful kitchen' is one of, sadly, a fast disappearing breed of restaurants in Budapest. Monday to Friday they serve up hearty lunches to local office workers, with nary a tourist in sight. If it's a wintry day and you can find a table (it's a small place) and blend in with the patrons, make sure you order their bean soup. It will, as used to be said, warm the cockles of the soul. Much of the menu changes daily but it's all good Magyar traditional favourites. On our last visit an American lady was telling the waiter someone should take this place up and make something of it. "Madame," he demurred, "it's been 20 years".