The people of Shkodra have the reputation of being good-humoured, tolerant and happy, and perhaps this all has led to the wonderful local songwriting tradition. (Shkodra In Your Pocket would like to thank Zef Coba for his cooperation for this article).

Shkodra has developed a special kind of music over the centuries that is quite different from anything else in Albania of the Balkans, somewhat clumsily called 'city', 'citizen' or 'urban' songs. Traditionally, the music made in the villages of the mountain regions consists of simple rhythms, with patriotic themes or talking of shepherd life, and was used at weddings and other ceremonies; less susceptible to change, this is still the most authentic music in Albania.

In Shkodra, altogether more sophisticated music was made, with lyrical, romantic texts, a restrained tempo and oriental-sounding scales. Uniquely, Shkodra's tradition of religious tolerance means that the songs were common and popular among all communities, Muslim, Catholic and Orthodox, and the songs were greatly influenced by this multicultural mentality combined with the beauty of the houses and gardens of this merchant city.

Until recently the songwriters craftily used symbols and metaphors to get around certain taboos that existed at the time, making odes to flowers rather than addressing the woman they had their eyes set on; nowadays songs are more direct but no less lyrical. The topics change a little with the times too, with some songs now addressing the pain of missing people who have migrated abroad. The two texts below are of the most popular songs.

When it comes to city songs, both men and women can play instruments and sing; there are group songs but also solo songs (called jare) which are very demanding of a singers talents. Instruments used include clarinets, violins, harmoniums, the def (a type of drum), the dajre (tambourine), and the saz, a sleek, long-necked lute with three strings. If you visit the Marubi photo collection you'll see beautiful shots of groups of musicians posing with their instruments, invariably seated around a plate of sweets and a few glasses of raki.

Shkodra's long relationship with music lead to a number of Albanian firsts. The first brassband was formed here in 1878 – and there are still occasional brass band festivals, the last held in April 2006. In the 1930s the first public concerts took place, with music presented as something to enjoy rather than merely as the backdrop to an event, with both men and women performing. The Catholic cardinal of Shkodra was involved in setting up the first public music house shows in 1936. Early shows staged there included topics such as the legend of Rozafa, the brutal Turkish siege of Shkodra, the Turkish invasion, and the Albanian flag. In 1913 Franciscan monks wrote Albania's first opera, though never performed it – the first opera premiere was here in 1968.

Under the repressive post-war regime, songwriters had it difficult, with obligatory nationalistic texts being sung and some old religious-themed songs changed for political reasons – but even at the time these changes were disliked.

Albania has changed immensely since the early days of citizen songs, with modern communications and mass emigration both influencing songs and bringing competition in the form of foreign pop, but there's strong proof that the tradition will survive, with new and newly interpreted songs regularly hummed on the streets.

If you're interested in hearing the typical citizen songs, ask CD and cassette vendors for music by artists such as Shygyri Alushi, Xhevdet Hafizi, Luçija Miloti, Bik Ndoja (famed for his jare), and Bujar Qamili. Better still, head for the Vivaldi restaurant near the Cathedral, or set out to the Taverna Shkodrana restaurant on the lakeshore between Shiroke and Zogaj, both of which have live music every weekend.

True fans can buy the book Albanian Urban Lyric Song in the 1930s by Eno Koco (Scarecrow Press, ISBN 0810848899), for sale at Amazon (includes CDs).

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Lule Bore
Tuj kerku n’are dhe koder
Tuj prek lulet gjith me dore
Veç n’nji kopesht te vogel n’Shkoder
Ty te gjeta luleboreJe e vogel, por je plot
Ty t’kerkoj une tash sa mot
Tash sa mot une ty t’kerkoj
N’gezim me ty jeten ta shkoj
Eja, eja lule bore
Une me ty do thur kunorPashe ma te bukuren stine prandvere
Pashe mretneshen drandofill
Mos t’ja falish kujt ti eren
Se per mu vetem ke çile


Snow flower (Lule Bore)
Searching in the fields and forests,
Touching all the flowers, did I
Find you in a Shkodra garden,
My snow flower, evermore.

Tiny yet you’re full in blossom,
I have sought you all my life,
All my life been looking for you,
To be with me, be my joy.
Come along now, my snow flower,
Let me make of you a crown.

I have seen the fair spring seasons,
I have seen the roses royal,
Give to no one your sweet fragrance
For you blossomed but for me.

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Pranvera filloi me ardhë
Pranvera filloi me ardhë,
Dhe bylbyli nisë me k’ndue;
Njajo drandofillja e bardhë,
Del n’dritare me ndigjue.
 O shpirt sa të due,
 S’bashku jetën me e kalue.Rreth e rreth Shkodrës jam sjellë,
Lule m’lule tue shetitë;
Ndër ma t’buk’rat ty t’kam zgjedhë,
Porsi hylli i bukurisë.
 O shpirt sa të due,
 S’bashku jetën me e kalue.Kanarinën e merr malli,
S’mundet kuj me i diftue,
Se bylbyli asht i pari,
Edhe unë i kam besue,
O shpirt sa të due,
 S’bashku jetën me e kalue.

Springtime is Approaching
Springtime is approaching,
And the nightingale is singing,
The white rose is appearing
At the window and is harking,
Oh sweetheart, how I love you,
Let us live our lives together.

I’ve been all ‘round Shkodra,
Strolling through the flowers,
You I chose, the fairest,
You are like the star of beauty,
Oh sweetheart, how I love you,
Let us live our lives together.

The canary is in longing,
Can tell no one of its suff’ring,
For the nightingale’s before it,
And my trust I’ve given to it,
Oh sweetheart, how I love you,
Let us live our lives together.

Both songs kindly translated by Robert Elsie, www.albanianliterature.net.