The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that's not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn't recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (Open 10:00 - 18:00.), where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac's day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.