While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city as Poland’s first capital, anyone with a passing knowledge of Polish history will recognise this as a fib. That title belongs to Gniezno, a picturesque town lying just 50km east of Poz. In all of Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important centre of worship and is still regarded today as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.