A delightfully quirky café/bar/restaurant situated round the back of the Imperial Castle, where trumpets burst out of the wall and gold-framed 19th-century paintings jostle for space. Successfully blending old-fashioned furniture with a modern atmosphere, Pretekst (The Excuse) offers a romp through refined regional cuisine with dishes like fried salmon with sorrel sauce, duck breast with cabbage and dumplings, and chicken supreme. Recommended.