The first thing that hits you as you're climbing the stairs to get into this popular haunt is the smell the frying meat - almost as if it's part of the welcome. We certainly felt welcomed when they found us a table in a back corner on a busy Saturday night. The long list of Georgian favourites might require some explanation for the uninitiated, so don't be afraid to ask. If in doubt, go for the old, Georgian staple: šašlõkk (kebab). The owners claim to serve the best in Tartu. We don't know about that, but it was pretty good.