Stained glass enthusiasts will have an absolute field day in Kraków, which has many fine examples of the craft – arguably some of the best in Europe – thanks to a proliferation of ancient churches and being the home city of resident geniuses Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer. Though there are many fantastic examples of intricate medieval window art throughout the city – particularly in Wawel Cathedral and St. Mary’s Basilica – the form really reached its pinnacle at the turn of the century during Kraków’s Art Nouveau heyday (Młoda Polska) during which time Mehoffer and Wyspiański were at the height of their creative powers. After working together under the supervision of Polish master Jan Matejko to restore the stained glass windows of St. Mary’s Basilica (C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5) on Kraków’s market square in 1899, both Mehoffer and Wyspiański turned their energy to stained glass with Wyspiański shortly thereafter producing perhaps his most defining work – the intricate interior wall paintings of St. Francis’ Basilica (C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5) and the imposing, almost violently energetic stained glass window entitled ‘God in the Act of Creation’ (pictured) over its entrance. Argued by some to be the greatest modern stained glass window in the world, it is certainly a must-see for all visitors. Followed by a commission to design a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral, Wyspiański’s incredible portrayals of St. Stanisław, Kazimierz the Great and Henryk Pobożny were deemed too grotesque and controversial to install, only recently finding a home over 100 years later in the purpose-built Wyspiański Pavilion (C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętich 2). Almost unknown even to locals, Wyspiański designed one other large-scale stained glass masterpiece in Kraków before his premature death in 1907 at age 38 and the height of his genius. One of the city’s best kept secrets, ‘Apollo: the Copernican Solar System’ lies hidden in the Medical Society House at ul. Radziwiłłowska 4 (E-3) unseen from the outside on this obscure street near the train station. Though the building is not open to the public, name-dropping the artist should be enough for the guard to let you in to have a brief look at the majestic window at the top of the stairs.

The bulk of Mehoffer’s creative output meanwhile was commissioned outside of Kraków, however enthusiasts will want to visit his mansion at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2) which has been beautifully preserved as a portal back in time 100 years. In the Józef Mehoffer House museum visitors will see dozens of his sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces throughout the rooms of his family home. Likewise, the Wyspiański Museum (B-2, ul. Szczepańska 11) displays evidence of the monumental output of Kraków’s most celebrated son, including the original pastels of his window designs. For more see Old Town Museums.