Perhaps the only space on the Rynek to survive Kraków's tourist boom with its scummy integrity intact, Vis a Vis is a timeless local favourite happy to tell foreigners to piss off while indulging pensioned Polish drunkards until their heads hit the beermat. Sadly forced to inflate to 8zł a pint, this is still the cheapest drink on the Rynek, making its seasonal outdoor tables the first you should look for a seat in before sending your most competent compatriot to fetch a drink inside the small stool-laden bar where watching the local barflies makes for an intriguing social study. One of the few remaining remnants of the 'real Kraków' that the Rynek has left.