Enter this smoke-filled time capsule, but heed the warning at the door not to use your mobile inside or you’ll have to have words with the pot-bellied owner who sings along to Dutch schlager music between puffs of his cigar. If there’s an object made of brass or copper, whether it’s a trumpet or a samovar, it’s probably hanging from the ceiling, while the walls are cluttered with photos, musical instruments and other bric-a-brac. Take a seat at a carpeted table and drink and puff on a cigarette with the regulars.