Next to the central market at Waaigat you'll find the Old Market, which has been transformed into a cosy food court that's filled to capacity with hungry locals at lunchtime. Half a dozen independently owned food stalls with open kitchens are laid out on one side and the rest of the large covered area is occupied by long counters. In fact, it's a scene you'd probably expect at a Bavarian beer hall and not in the steaming tropics, but don't get too excited because you won't find buxom blondes holding mugs of German beers. You'll have to settle for a genuine smile at Big Mama's. The food served is authentically Caribbean and doesn't get much better than this. As if you needed more convincing, the generous servings of local delicacies are incredibly affordable. Try the first stall immediately to the left when entering from the souvenir market.