Along the main road right below Rozafa Castle, this 17th century church is famous for a fresco that isn't there any more. The story goes that locals would pray at the depiction of Our Mother of Good Counsel during times of trouble, of which there were plenty in 15th-century Shkodra. During the Turkish conquest of the region in 1467, the painting disappeared, miraculously turning up in Genazzano near Rome. In all probability, that's in fact a 14th century Umbrian fresco, and not the result of an early international express delivery. Unfazed, Catholic Albanians adore Mary and this image in particular, and numerous chapels and churches across the region have been named after it.
