Tirana has caught up with the rest of us and now boasts more or less everything the modern shopper requires, much of it for sale in modern shopping centres. A more authentic Albanian retail experience can be had in the cheap and cheerful neighbourhood shops staffed by grinning proprietors, many of them more concerned with where you’re from, and if you have a husband or wife, than what you want to buy. Around the Pazar i Ri market, the bustling streets cater to singular tastes such as bicycles, second-hand clothes and furniture.