Down a side street off Royal Avenue lurks this 16th century black and white bar, one of the city's oldest and, in our opinion, most authentic. Positively no pandering to tourists, designer cocktail lists or faux-trad nonsense. Instead, it's all about the serious business of imbibing as the congregation worships at the high altar of Arthur Guinness and co. And if you fancy a break from the strong stuff (as if), the coffee nook serves a good quality cuppa. Regular outbursts of Irish music and an ever-roaring turf fire add to Kelly's unforced charm.