The lovely town of Berat, below majestic Mount Tomorri, is one of the best-preserved Ottoman cities in the Balkans. It has everything you require; a beautiful medieval castle district complete with ancient churches and mosques, a lively lower town consisting of grand old houses draped on steep hillsides, an old stone bridge and a great museum. Just 125km south of Tirana, it's an easy two-hour drive on the highway via Durrës, slightly longer using one of many buses. You could see the highlights on a day trip, but better spend a night to experience this unique UNESCO-listed city slowly. After all, the very best thing to do in town is joining the locals on their xhiro evening stroll along the boulevard.