Berat's two densely packed lower town districts – Mangalemi at the foot of the citadel hill, Gorica across the river – are characterized by the typical white mansions with their 'thousand windows'. Even though there's not much to see in the ancient cobbled streets, they're great for aimless wandering, a drink or meal at one of the delightful family-run restaurants, and a glimpse into lifestyles long gone elsewhere. Walk east towards the modern centre for highlights such as the Lead Mosque from 1555, named for its roofing material, the 19th-century Bachelor's Mosque, the Sultan's Mosque.