Bileća is a small town just an hour or so north of Trebinje, famous for its artificial lake and delightfully warm climate, one that gives even the City of Sun a run for its money. The usual ‘crossroads’ cliches apply, with Bileća getting its moment in the sun (yes, pun intended) in the 1388 Battle of Bileća, where the Bosnian Army (led by Vlatko Vuković) held the Ottomans at bay for just a little longer. The battle helped the Christian nations come together against the Ottoman threat, but history tells us that how that went.

But anyway, Bileća. A small town of less than 10,000 people, the face of the town completely changed with the creation of Lake Bileća in 1968, finally giving the people of this harsh land a surface water source. It also gave tourists something to gawp at, and undoubtedly dominates the attractions today. Throw in the usual mix of stećci, churches, monasteries and fortresses, and you’ve got a charming place to stop on your way between Trebinje and Mostar.