A photograph of lovelorn chanteuse Edith Piaf and heavy velvet curtains are the first things you notice after the burly bouncer and a suspicious-looking woman at the door, giving this place something of speakeasy atmosphere. Getting the bartenders' attention can be difficult. The world's worst or greatest torch song singer belts out the classics in faultless Hungarian. Downstairs if you can take it, there is a second, even livelier bar and dance floor, mostly dance floor, where high life and low life from anywhere and everywhere can be seen shaking it until the dawn. An absolute institution in Budapest, and rightly so.