The Széchenyi (1913) is a vast complex of outdoor and indoor pools - one of Europe's largest spa baths. It's a virtual microcosm of the Central European experience: first there's the Byzantine admission-fee structure, then the 'automatic' entry gate with a bored assistant standing beside it. But don't despair! Once inside, you're in the middle of la dolce vita, Budapest-style. Float around and you'll see young and old sweethearts nuzzling, and potbellied guys playing chess. Women and men are not segregated here. Bring your bathing suit and a towel.