While we’re all for spending as much time in Český Krumlov as possible, the simple fact is that most visit the town as a day trip from Prague. More fool them! This is a beaut of a place with a soul that demands exploration, so give yourself at least one night in order to dig into it, rather than spending valuable time on a Regiojet train or something. 24 hours in Český Krumlov, done right.
Morning: All Castle Everything
Český Krumlov Castle is the undoubted highlight of the city, for a multitude of reasons. It is an absolute stunner for one, a strangely large castle for a town of this relatively meagre size, a fact that is mimicked if you talk about importance instead of size. It is the main event of this stunning show, as well as a vantage point from where you can get some truly incredible views of this beautiful place. Climb the tower for extra special views, roam the gardens for a little bit of romance and explore the Baroque Theatre, arguably the most stunning in all of the Czech Republic. You could probably spend your entire day in and around the castle, so feel free to do so if you are that way inclined.
Afternoon: The Narrow Cultured Streets of the Old Town
Stop for a bite to eat at Laibon (the city’s only vegetarian restaurant) bef re exploring the narrow streets of Český Krumlov’s old town. This is the fairytale world you have expected to see, although it takes on an extra layer of magic when you take into consideration how neglected it all was just 30 years ago. Tour both side of the Vltava river, stopping in at the Egon Schiele Art Centrum (and corresponding cafe) to gaze at the life and work of this famous Austrian painter. The Museum of Torture (cheery!) and Regional Museum are also worth a look, but the real value is in wandering the streets, stopping for coffee and beer here and there.
Evening: Beer, Food, More Beer
The Czech Republic is famous for its beer, and that tradition has indeed made it out to Český Krumlov. The Eggenberg Brewery is no ordinary brewery — this is a place of aesthetic might that has seen it used in a number of films in recent times. Stop here for a tour and a beer before heading back to the centre for dinner at Krčma U dwau Maryí (Tavern of the Two Maries), a toothsome homage to all things traditional. Almost all the food goes very well with beer, so try plenty of dishes and plenty of pivo, allowing yourself just enough sobriety to enjoy one last stroll around the town as the night lights twinkle around you.